Hemis National Park Circuit Trip Notes

The Responsible Travellers www.theresponsibletravellers.com

Ladakh: Hemis Circuit Trek Trip Notes

Highlights: ¾ Red Fort, Delhi Grade C 16 days ¾ 2 days Sightseeing in Leh This is graded “C” as it includes: ¾ 10 Days fully catered tented camp trek ¾ Well defined trails ¾ 5 Nights B&B Hotel ¾ Good underfoot conditions ¾ Average daily walking: 5-6 hours ¾ Sustained high altitude – Max 5100m ¾ Camp facilities ¾Rtn flight Delhi - Leh Introduction This complete circuit of the Hemis National Park is a fabulous route which includes not only the famous Markha Valley with pretty Ladakhi villages, but also a traverse across the Stok Range over high passes & herder’s pastures. This last part of the trek going off the beaten trail gives a great finale and is rewarded with the most fabulous views. Arriving in Delhi, we have a tour of the RedFort and the following day fly to Leh, the capital of Ladakh. Here we spend 3 nights and two days acclimatising to the altitude of this high plateau. After exploring the area around Leh, including a jeep safari to the highest motorable point in the world at Khadong La (5602m), and a visit to Thikse Monastery & Shey Palace we start our trek. The Hemis national park is home to the elusive Snow Leopard, and you should see much of the wildlife here whilst on trek, such as Marmot, Blue Sheep, Argali, as well as Golden Eagles, lammergeyers and Vultures. The mountains are a myriad of colours with stunning formations which are fabulous to view and most rewarding to trek through. This is an all round adventure in the beautiful Ladakh region with great mountain views across the Ladakh, Stok and Zanskar Ranges. It is a serious “Must Do” for all walking enthusiasts. Day 1: Arrival in Delhi Arrive in Delhi and transfer to the hotel. The morning can be spent resting, then in the afternoon we have a tour of the great Red Fort. Situated in Old Delhi, the fort was built in the 17th century by Shah Jehan the Mughal Emperor who built the Taj Mahal. Built in red sandstones it therefore has the resemblance to Agra Fort, his original capital. We will retire early this evening in preparation for the early start tomorrow. Accommodation: City Hotel Bed & Breakfast Day 2: Transfer to Leh The flight to Leh is early in the morning, arriving at the destination by approximately 08:00 am. Weather permitting it is a fantastic flight over the Himalaya and the Stok ranges with great views of this mountainous region. At times you are flying what seems to be very close to the mountain tops and can get great views of the glaciers and mountain features. Coming into Leh you descend over the mountain tops into the arid desert landscape of the basin in which the capital of Ladakh is situated. This is quite a spectacular landing. As you descend the aeroplane there is a definite feel of being in a remote outpost with the sparse facilities at the airstrip terminal. You will then be transferred to our hotel, a family run Ladaki home in a quiet part of Leh. Today we concentrate on acclimatising, the day should be spent resting and enjoying the mountain views and maybe a walk to the market in the afternoon. Leh is a small quiet town with traditional Tibetan style buildings. It is very chilled and slow pace with restaurants, shops selling Ladakhi, Tibetan and Kashmiri products. Accommodation: Hotel Bed & Breakfast © The Responsible Travellers Ltd 2008 Day 3: Leh Sightseeing Today we visit two of the great sites in Ladakh. Firstly we will go to Shey Palace, a beautiful monastery sitting majestically on a spur looking out on the plains of the Indus valley. This is the old palace of the Kings of Ladakh before the more recent palace was built in Leh. The main temple contains a large Buddha which is said to be carved by Nepali craftsmen. In the courtyard there is a gold topped stupa, which we will view from above as we walk around the complex. Here we have views not only of the Indus valley, but also of the Stok Range and Spituk Valley. We then visit Tikse Monastery, a large monastery complex on top of a small hill with the village sprawled around below the Main Gompa buildings. Although, it was founded in the 15th century it is extremely well kept and maintained. Day 4: Acclimatisation Day Accommodation: Hotel Bed & Breakfast Today is chance for us to further acclimatise before heading out to the mountains. We will do so with a walk up Namgyal Hill to Leh Palace, then to Tsermo Monastery for a magnificent vista across of the valley and snowcapped mountains. There will also be a chance to visit the World Peace Pagoda on the way down. For further acclimatization there will be a drive up to Khadung La at 5602m, the highest motorable road in the world! Accommodation: Hotel Bed & Breakfast Day 5: Drive to Jingchen, onto Rumbak We drive South out of Leh, past the airport and then after Spithuk Monastery, we drive through the village and cross a bridge over the Singhe Kheabab ( Indus). We now head west across very barren landscape with views of the Phyang valley to the north bank of the river. As we pass the Secmol school Day 6: Ganda La Base Camp located on the other side of the river we enter an amazing Today we head south west and steadily climb through these gorge. The Canyon features caused by water and wind erosion amazing mountains which are ablaze with many shades of reveal a variety of colours. We then leave the Indus and follow colour. We pass the single housed village of Yurutse and a a smaller river to Zingchen. From here we start our trek up the small Mani wall before arriving at lower Gandala base camp. canyon following the zingchen Tokpo. We cross and re-cross the The upper camp is about a hundred meters higher river a few times as we gradually ascent to lower Rumbak. supposedly at 4480m. There is a good chance of sighting There is usually a check post and tented teahouse here. The chukar partridges all through the day and marmots valley widens a bit from here with a broader riverbed which we approaching the higher camp. Down in the valley some of follow until Rumbak proper where we shall camp for the night. the flowers you will see are geranium, iris and aquilegia. On Drive time: 2 hrs Walking Time: 3 ½ hrs approach to the camp we also have a great view of Stock Altitude: 3800m Kangri We shall decide on either the upper or lower camp Accommodation: Fully catered tented camp depending on how the group is feeling. Walking time – 3-4 hrs Approx. altitude – 4380m Accommodation: Fully catered tented camp Day 7: Ganda La Base to Skiu The Pass is close to the camp with a short zigzag climb to begin with. As you head up the hill you will find many excuses to stop and admire the marmots, hares, weasels who inhabit the area. It is fun to watch these curious creatures as you catch your breath. As we climb to our left Stock Kangri dominates the skyline with Ladakh range behind us and the Zanskar range ahead. The pass greets us with a flurry of prayer flags fluttering in the wind. There is a small hill to climb at the pass up to a chorten which provides even more splendid views. After some time enjoying the rewards of our climb, we descend into the Shingo valley. From the pass you see a small green oasis, where there is usually a tented teashop. It takes approx 1.5 hours to descend to this point in Shingo Village. After tea, we head on down the valley which from this point tapers down to a narrow gorge. The landscape is stunning with rocks varying in colours from turquoise to brown to purple. The path is lined with dog rose and willow trees as we descend further to Skiu Village which greets us with rows of chortens and a small monastery. From here we take the left valley heading up the Markha River. A short walk along this rich green valley with tall red jagged peaks takes us to our campsite. Walking time – 5½ hrs, Approx. altitude – 3500m Accommodation: Fully catered tented camp © The Responsible Travellers Ltd 2008 Day 8: Skiu to Markha Today is a long day, in fact the longest of the trek. However the gradient is not demanding as we will be walking along the valley. The trail crosses the river several times, although there are bridges in some places there will be some river crossings to be negotiated. The valley floor along the river is lushly vegetated with willow, dog rose and various other thorny bushes whilst the slopes are bare and dry carved into all sorts of shapes revealing different shades of color. After the final river crossing we walk alongside a bogy meadow and arrive at the Village of Markha. We camp just before the main village. There will be time in the afternoon to visit the monastery and village that is tucked behind the ruins of the mediaeval fort that sits on a small hill. Walking time – 8hrs Approx. altitude – 3700m Accommodation: Camp

Day 9: Markha to Thuchungche We leave camp and climb up a short hill to the main village and monastery. From this vantage point, we have superb views looking both up the valley and back down over the path that we have already trodden where the Zansker range is still in sight. We continue along the left hand side of the river for approximately one hour before following the new trail which takes us along the bed of the Markha River. We can see the old path above, which is unused since the flood of 2006. The new trail brings the added adventure of two river crossings. You should have your sandals to the ready, and the guide and assistants will help you cross at a suitable point. Reinvigorated from the river, we continue up the valley. After about half an hour, we reach the amazing sight of Umlung Monastery, a small Gompa perched high on the cliff top above the river. For the energetic, you have the option to climb a well defined path to the top an effort that will be well rewarded with views along the valley. We continue along the river and at the village climb over a small hill to avoid crossing the river, then descend down steeply to return to the trail. After passing a small hamlet the trail climbs steeply up a narrow gully where we are greeted by a row of chortens and the ruins of the ancient fort perched high up on a rocky spur. Kang Yatse (6400m) now dominates the skyline towering over the surrounding scenery, certainly a worthy Kodak moment. After the village at the confluence of the two rivers the trail veers left through a narrow gorge and climbs steadily up to the campsite which comes into view just as we cross a bridge. There is clean water in the river and a good place to bathe “eu natural”. Look out for blue sheep along the ridges. Walking time – 6-6½ hrs Approx. altitude – 3900m Accommodation: Camp

Day 10: Thachungste to Nimaling After the camp we cross a stoney riverbed, and then steadily climb. You may see lots of snow pigeons, finches and marmots during this climb. Do not forget to stop and look back as the view is good of the multiple folds of jagged mountains of the Markha valley. After about 1.5 hours we arrive on a ridge from where you are greeted by stunning views, of Kang Yatse to the south and the eroded pinnacle formations below the snow caped otherwise purple mountains to the north. The trail continues to climb but not as steeply until we arrive at a small lake. For the energetic, there is the option to take the small trail leading south to Kang Yatse base camp. From this point to Nimaling is a very gentle roll of small mounts. You might see yaks and dzos (hybrid of yak and cow) grazing on the lush green grass and wild alpine flowers that thrive in the summer, shepherds herding big herds of goat and sheep and overhead you will not miss the lammergeyers soaring effortlessly and elegantly. There will be an optional walk towards Kang Yatse Base in the afternoon if not done on the way up. Walking time – 4hrs Approx. altitude – 4600m Accommodation: Camp © The Responsible Travellers Ltd 2008 Day 11: Nimaling to Chu Skyurmo We start with a steep climb past the local Shepard's enclosure and then meet a more gentle incline from where Kang Yatse looks impressive dominating the valley below us. A final steep ascent takes us to the Kongmarula pass at 5100m where as usual we are greeted by prayer flags. Here the view is simply superb with Zanskar Range to the east, Kang Yatse to the south, the bare jagged mountains of the Stok Range revealing a variety of colour ahead of us, and then the Ladakh Range creating the horizon of the north. This exemplifies trekking in Ladakh - vantage points from which the entire ranges and a dominating snow capped peak can be admired. We then descend for approximately one hour until we reach the fantastic gorge.

The trail gets little tricky here as we negotiate the narrow gorge. Sometimes climbing above the river and at other the trail passes along the valley floor crossing the river over and over. The scenery is fabulous as we take some moments to enjoy the eroded gorge sides and stunning contorted rock formations. After about 1½ – 2 hours we reach the tented tea shop at Chu Skyurmo to camp. The name of the place translates in Ladakhi as sour water which runs from a small spring across the river. Walking time – 7 ½ hrs Approx. altitude – 4000m Accommodation: Camp

Day 12: Chu Skyurmo to Shyang Phu We descend from camp for approx 20 minutes to the village of Chongdu, follow the river and then cross over and ascend past a couple of chortens to enter a narrow valley. From here we trek up the Gyunchu River following a small irrigation canal where willow trees are being propagated. It is a gentle ascent for approximately two hours after which we climb steeply up a gully where the path is little defined. This section is a little hard going but is well rewarded with stunning views from a ridge at the crest of the pass. We will rest a while and enjoy the view before us looking out from the ridge to the expanse of the Ladakh range in the distance and an army of colours across the Stok mountains in the fore ground. This is trekking in Ladakh at its best, superb views and ever changing colours and scenery. We then climb for 10 minutes to the summit proper of Gyuncho La (4600m). From here you can see the “Purple valley” through which we shall trek tomorrow. In the meantime we descend through a beautiful pasture land and climb a short way to a minor pass. The descent to camp is around 20 minutes now through a beautiful valley of flowers. As we turn a corner on a spur, the camp and live stock enclosure of the ‘phu’ can be seen below (‘Phu’-place of small dwellings used in the summer when live stock is taken to higher ground to graze away from the fields in the village). Today is a fabulous walk off the beaten track. A great day! Walking time – 6½ hrs Approx. altitude – 4300m Accommodation: Camp © The Responsible Travellers Ltd 2008 Day 13: Shyang Phu to Matho Phu Leaving camp we cross the river and follow the smaller valley to the right. This is a gentle ascent taking us through pastures that are home to an array of colours – from flowers, and ever changing hues exposed on the mountain slopes. We skirt around spurs sprawling into the valley then ascend a little more steeply on approach to the pass Shyang La (4800m). Here yet another valley of Rohriech’s Ladakh greet us. We stay high on the shoulder of a spur during the descend from the pass in order to avoid going too low. This will be a good time for a break and some refreshment whilst enjoying the views. We descend further down to the river, then climb up onto a spur and traverse across several more spurs with views of the campsite below and Matho La (4820m) above. We finally descend to cross the Taktakmo River flowing from the snow capped peak of Zangtang at a small sheep farm, then crossing a smaller stream we climb up to Matho Phu and camp. Matho phu is a cluster of huts in between two mountain streams and there will be lots of livestock around the camp such as dzo, donkey, cows, goats and sheep. Walking time – 7 hrs Approx. altitude – 4300m Accommodation: Camp

Day 14: Matho Phu to Stok The Matho la trail can be seen from the camp and we would have also seen it from shyang La the previous day. This morning we cross another stream and head up the right valley on a very gentle gradient. After crossing one more river we steadily climb for about an hour and a half to Matho La (4820m). There is a grand view from here of Stok Kangri and the adjoining mountains. Below the valley drops steeply towards a small meadow rising from where are a multitude of ridges in various colours. One can just about make out the trail up Stok La that connects the valley with the Rumbak Valley on the other side where we started our trek. We descend down to the boggy meadow, and further following the stream, then after crossing the stream we pass a lesser Day 16: Departure; Phu as the trail becomes an almost level gradient. Keeping to You will take an early flight back to Delhi, to connect the right hand side of the river we carry on down to to your onward international flight later in the day. Mankarmo a lone house with camping facilities at the confluence of two rivers. Here we enter a narrow gorge to exit from the Stok Range of mountains and camp before Stok Village. Recommended Extensions Walking time – 7hrs We suggest the following extensions which Approx. altitude – 4000m Accommodation: Camp can be added to the end of this itinerary: i) 3 days climb Stok Kangri ii) 3 day Day 15: Free day in Leh extension to Tsmoriri Lake or iii) travel This morning our transport will meet us at Stok village overland from Leh to Delhi. pick up point, from where we will transfer back to Leh. The rest of the day is then free in Leh to enjoy the Please contact us at: Tibetan Bazaars and buy souvenirs. You can also discuss with your leader options for additional sightseeing or [email protected]. cultural interest visits such as the Ecological Development Centre and Women’s alliance of Ladakh. Accommodation: Leh Hotel B&B

Independent & Bespoke Group Trips This trip can be tailor made for either an independent trek or for your own group. You can select any departure date during May to September and adjust the itinerary if necessary to suit your needs. please contact us at: [email protected]

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9 Carbon Balancing of international flights Insurance: It is compulsory to take full holiday insurance which covers trekking to 9 Internal flight return Delhi – Leh the maximum altitude of your trek/trip, and also covers full rescue and repatriation 9 1 day guided sightseeing in Delhi costs. You will need to provide a copy of your insurance details, including an 9 5 nights hotel B&B accommodation emergency 24 hour telephone number to the trek leader before departing Leh. This 9 10 nights fully catered tented camp should include any correspondence stating clarification of the required cover. If 9 2 days guided sightseeing, transport and entrance your policy documents are not available or prove to provide insufficient cover you fees in and around Leh as specified in the itinerary may not be able to continue your trip. Please ensure that your policy also covers 9All transportation included in the itinerary any extra activity outside of the stated itinerary you wish to do if you are extending whilst in Ladakh your trip. 9 Porterage and guides fees Passport: Passports need to be valid for a minimum period of 6 months from the 9 National Park Entrance fees & permits date of visa application if you are applying in the UK and from the date of entry 9 100% profits donated to charity into India. What’s not included: Visa Details: Visas are required to be purchased in advance from the Indian Embassy. A link to the website is below: International flights & airport taxes All meals other than those included above http://india.embassyhomepage.com Incidental extra personal expenses Money: The local currency is Indian Rupees (approx exchange rate 80 IRS - £1 – Indian Tourist Entry Visa subject to daily fluctuation) It is advised to take either sterling or US Dollars. Single persons supplement Traveller’s cheques and cash can be exchanged for local currency in Delhi. Credit Additional sightseeing not specified in the itinerary cards are not generally accepted. in Ladakh. It is best to do your money exchange Travel Insurance in Delhi. Staff tips Flight Information: This trip is land only and operates Delhi to Delhi. Given our Travelling alone…….and don’t want to pay a clients come from a variety of locations around the world we are able to help you single supplement? No problem, you will be paired up source flights but we do not purchase on your behalf. We also prefer to give you with someone of the same gender to share a room / the option to add extensions or create a tailor made trip and therefore have the tent. If you would prefer the privacy of a single flexibility of flights at your own convenience. Please contact us if you want advice occupancy the Single Supplement for this trip is £120 about flight options and how to purchase. Health: Ladakh is a high altitude plateau and so you will be at 3500m and above Thought of Funding raising for charity? during your stay here. It is important you are fit and healthy. We strongly You may choose to take this opportunity to raise recommend you visit your local GP and ask advice regarding any vaccinations sponsorship for one of our affiliated charities, If required. you wish to do so please contact us at: Itinerary: All that is possible will be done to ensure the trip follows the outlined [email protected] and we will itinerary. However, due to factors beyond our control such as local weather, forward details to you. politics and airlines it may be necessary to vary one or more of the days. If this does occur we shall do our utmost to ensure minimal impact to you. First class staff & service levels We are a highly credible tour operating organisation What to expect specialising in the Himalayan countries. All our staff are Weather Wildlife specially selected based on their experience, expertise Ladakh has 300 days of sunshine a Ladakh is home to the wonderful and qualifications. We pride ourselves on a highly year! During the summer months it Marmot, blue sheep, Argali, Kyang, personalised service with quality of care. The trip Leader is likely to be between 20-30 (wild ass), Tibetan wolf and of will be an experienced professional leader working full degrees during the daytime course the elusive snow leopard. time in the Himalayas & Central Asia with many years of (depending on if you are at altitude) The birdlife includes lamagierer, ins experience. He/she will have full mountain wilderness & and lowering to 10 degrees at night. and griffin vulture, chukar and first aid qualifications and will have received training from As Ladakh is in a rain shadow the golden eagles in the mountains and either Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Nepal precipitation is low, but you may get Hoopoe, Rose Finches citrus Mountaineering Association or one of the European Alpine an occasional burst of rain. wagtails in the valley. Clubs. As a responsible employer we pride ourselves on hiring local staff and paying wages higher than most Group Size Baggage: organisations. If you want to read more about our Due to the remote locations that are In Ladakh most treks will be using pack employment policy please go to: visited, we remain sympathetic to ponies in order to porter your luggage www.theresponsibletravellers.com/our ethics/employment the local culture and environment each day. You should use a Rucksack policy.html by limiting our trips to a maximum or Kit bag that is strong enough to of 12 places. This may be slightly withstand the rigors of transportation in Further Information: smaller than other operators, and the mountains. Suitcases or rigid bags If you have any queries regarding this trip, whether it we believe it ensures the maximum can not be used as these are a difficult is about preparation, the itinerary or general travel enjoyment and fulfilment of our trip and awkward load for pack animals. information please do not hesitate to contact us. If members and minimize the The weight limit for your trek bag is this trip is not for you perhaps you would like to pressures on the environment. This 15kg. The limitation for luggage on the contact us for details of alternative trips. also avoids the feeling of “herding” internal flight is 15kg for the hold and All our trips and additional extensions can be viewed from being part of a large group. 10kg for hand luggage. Please see your online at: www.theresponsibletravellers.com There is a minimum of 6 to operate airline for details of your international or write to us at [email protected]. the trek. flight luggage allowances.

Here at The Responsible Travellers we take great pride in the fact that we are doing the right thing by you our customers, by our staff, and by the people, country and environment in which we operate. We believe actions speak louder than words, over the next few pages you can read how our ethics are put into practice.

Our Guarantee: 100% of profits are donated to Charitable Projects 9 We pay the cost to Carbon Balance your international flight to the Himalayas 9 Through a committed Environmental Policy we work to ensure minimal impact of our activities 9 We have a simple and fair Pricing Policy with no extra fees charges – price us up against other companies! 9 Have a fair and ethical Employment Policy which is committed to employing local staff and paying fair wages Are you ready for a change in the way you approach your holiday?

Before you go…. we start to take responsibility for your trip by carbon balancing your flights. The impact on climate change from the way in which we live today is a topic we have all heard about, and is under much debate from the world’s scientific community. This is something that we can not and should not ignore. This is why when you go on holiday with “The Responsible Travellers”, we commit as part of our Responsible Tourism policy to ensure your trip contributes towards renewable energy technologies in the Himalayas. Given the great “green debate”, we have chosen to implement this policy in a way that ensures we know we are making a difference. For every traveller to the Himalayas we donate twice the amount it costs to purchase commercial carbon credits** to either Nepal’s Renewable Energy support programme BSP. Or Ladakh’s Ecological Development Society depending on your destination. Travel with peace of mind with The Responsible Travellers

Whilst you are there…. Our Employment and environmental policies demonstrate our continued sense of responsibility. Firstly, our belief in aid through trade and therefore the generation of local employment and how this is managed is at the very heart of our operation. This is why we have a 100% commitment to employing only local staff. Our customers benefit from this by being able to get closer to the culture and learn more from the experience in the Himalayas, travelling with those who are born and bred in the area. By employing this policy we are also ensuring that the local economy benefits as much as possible rather than commercial organisations. We take great pride in ensuring fair wages to all our local staff and protecting our porters from exploitation. Secondly, our environmental policy addresses waste management, water usage, and encourages and supports the use of renewable resources. In addition, we work closely with the Nepal Sustainable Tourism Development Unit and WWF to ensure the strongest commitment to the local environment. Read more at: www.theresponsibletravellers/ethics.html The choice is easy when you are…

© The Responsible Travellers Ltd 2008 After you’ve gone…… The Responsible Travellers donates all profits from its travel operations to charitable projects in Nepal. We believe the most effective way to invest is with the help of specialist organisations. We work with our partners to find suitable projects and locations to invest and then all the funds go directly to the local project. Our partner charities and areas of investment include:

Education We believe all development starts with educating the people. We support community education programmes, child support programmes, and interest free loans for adult education through our beneficiary charity CHANCE Registered UK charity. 1107201..

Community Development We help communities to provide themselves with improved facilities and encourage this to be done in an environmentally friendly way. Our volunteer programs allow visitors to experience this first hand when they opt for a family home stay and participate in the community project holidays.

Re-Forestation & Renewable Resources Our third area of work involves working with BSP – the national biogas organisation in Nepal. The WWF estimate that only 29% of the original forest covers in Nepal still remains. Between 1990 and 2005, Nepal lost 1.2 million hectares of forest We work with BSP Nepal in order to help the communities develop Biogas – a renewable energy resource which provides clean fuel, stops deforestation, and offers far reaching health and sanitation benefits.

To see more details of our charitable giving please go online to: http://www.theresponsibletravellers.com/ethics/projects.html

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To help you have a hassle free holiday, we provide a fair and simple pricing policy:

9 We charge a fair price: to make sure the holiday is as satisfying as possible; we charge what we believe is a fair price, not what we can get away with – compare us to other companies! 9 No extra land charges or hidden fees: To keep life simple we make a single charge 9 No profiteering from single supplements: we charge a fair price based on cost & do not charge excessive premiums for single supplements 9 No nagging for donations: We do not request charitable donations from you in order to justify our responsible tourism policy. We work hard on your behalf so you can just concentrate on having a great time!

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