Synthetic Coping for Below Deck Auto Cover Supplemental Guide Page 1 of 5 Parts List Coping Hardware Kit Qty Description Qty Description (2) Roll of Foam Adhesive (26) 1-1/4" Hex Head Self-Tapping Screw (19) 4" Stainless Steel Self-Tapping Screws (50) 1-1/4" Galvanized Screw (24) 1-1/4” Stainless Steel Oval Head Screw (10) 3" Galvanized Screw (1) PVC Angle Bracket (1) 5/16" Hex Head Bit (2) #10 x 1” Stainless Steel Self Screw (1) #3 Phillips Head Bit (4) 18” Aluminum Coping Braces (1) 1/4” Bit (4) 6” Aluminum Coping Braces (1) (25) Clip Angles (1) 3/32" Hex Head Wrench (1) Tube of Clear Silicone Additional Materials Required (supplied by others) 8' lengths of 2"x6" rot-resistant to be used as a support for the outer perimeter of the coping. (Number of 2"x6" required is dependent upon size of pool. 5 lengths are required for a 7’ x 14’ pool.) Required (supplied by others) Drill #2 Phillips Head Bit Circular Utility knife Description Synthetic Coping for the Below Deck Automatic Retractable Security Cover (BDARSC) offers a simple and attractive finish for pools w/ BDARSC. Additional Considerations The BDARSC components at the front of the pool are designed to support the finish work above. Since the C bracket placement can vary, the coping seams at the front of the pool may not be supported without additional bracing. Aluminum coping braces have been provided to secure the seams in the coping from the underside. When considering the placement of these braces, make sure that they will not rest on top of the C brackets or other cover components. If you choose to use pressure treated wood for the coping substrate, you must ensure that the pressure treated wood does not come into direct contact with any of the galvanized steel. Screws specifically designed for pressure treated wood should be substituted for the provided screws. Installation Instructions 1) Draw a line on down the length of the 2x6 on the 5-1/2" face, 2-1/8" from one end.

2-1/8"

2) Attach the clip angles to the 2x6 so that the horizontal surface of the angle is aligned with the line that was drawn in the previous step and the vertical surface (surface with two pre-drilled holes) of the

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clip is facing down. The clips should be installed 12" from each end, and approximately every 24" along the 2x6. Use two 1-1/4" galvanized screw per clip (see diagram on next page).

This portion of the 2x6 will extend above the top flange of the panel 2 1/8”.

Line drawn in step 1.

This clip angle will be attached to the 2x6 with the provided 1 1/4”galvanized screw. The clip will be secured to the panel with the provided 1- 1/4” hex head self-drilling screw.

3) Begin securing the wood framework to the top flange of pool by first securing one 2x6 to the rear flange. This 2x6 (which can be one or two pieces) should be cut to measure 16 1/4" more than the inside dimension of the width of the pool (eg, a 7' wide pool requires a 8'4-1/4" rear wood frame). Center the rear wood support on the panel and secure by screwing the clip angles down into the top flange using the 1-1/4" hex head self tapping screws, so that the 2-1/8” portion of the 2x6 is above the reinforcing channel. The coping will rest on top of the cover track extrusions and the 2x6’s. The goal is to have the coping as level as possible. 4) Next, attach the side 2x6s. Position each of the side 2x6 supports so that each seats against the rear 2x6 already installed; use two 3" galvanized screws on each side to secure the side supports to the rear support. Working towards the front of the pool, secure the side 2x6’s to the top flange as described in step 3, until the side 2x6’s meet the pulley channel at the front on one side of the pool, and to the drum motor assembly on the other side. 5) Place the foam adhesive down on the top lip of the track extrusion, using a utility knife to cut it at the corners. On the BDARSC drive mechanism, place a 2"-3" piece of foam adhesive on the pulley channel every 18" and a piece spanning the width of the C bracket on the front and rear of the bracket. Note: The foam adhesive acts as a seal between the extrusion and the coping. Do not remove the protective film from the topside of the tape at this time.

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6) Temporarily lay out the coping pieces on top of the pool. Determine the best surface to be exposed for each piece. The coping may overhang the inside the perimeter of the pool by as much as 1/2". The 13 3/4" wide pieces and the 4 7/8” sections of coping span the front panel and the cover mechanism. Note: If the coping is going to be exposed to direct sunlight, consider placing a coin or a similarly sized shim on edge between each piece at the shiplaps during installation. This will allow for some expansion in the material. Consider whether the material is hot or cold during installation. Call Customer Service with questions. 7) Remove the 13 3/4” & 4 7/8” wide pieces from the pool and lay the upside down on a smooth clean surface. These pieces will need to be joined together prior to securing to the pool. It is important to take into account the cover drive components and C-brackets when considering the placement of the braces. If a coping shiplap is too close to a C-bracket, then attach the PVC angle to the C-bracket instead of using the aluminum coping braces. Refer to the diagram on the next page for guidelines on where to attach the coping braces. Once all of the front pieces have been interlocked, place this assembly back on to the pool. 8) The next step is to start attaching the coping to the pool. The two long sides and the rear will be installed first and then the front will be secured. After determining which corner to start (site-specific factors will determine the best place to start), remove a rear corner piece of coping. Start to peel the backing off of both the foam tape and foam adhesive 1/2"-1". Use the provided tube of silicone to seal the shiplap joint and then carefully replace the coping piece that was just removed. 9) While the coping is in place, start to pull the backing off of the foam adhesive. Periodically press down on the coping to ensure that there is a good seal between the foam adhesive and the coping. It may be necessary to lift up slightly on each subsequent piece of coping as the backing is being removed. Take care when replacing each piece. Once the coping is in place and is being held down by the foam adhesive, it is time to secure it in place. 10) Along the sides and rear of the pool, find the center of the coping with your tape measure; the center should be 4-7/8". Next, measure back from each shiplap joint 3", and make a mark on the centerline. Repeat this process for each side of every shiplap joint. At these marks, drill a hole with the provided 1/4" drill bit, making sure to only drill through the coping and not into the top flange or shim material. Then use the countersink tool and countersink the holes. The counter sink will have to be reset. Use the provided hex head wrench to loosen the setscrew. Set it so that approximately 3-1/16" of the shaft is exposed beyond the cutting edge of the countersink. We strongly advise that you test your depth on a piece of 1" thick scrap material before drilling your coping. 11) Remove the countersink tool from your drill and replace it with the #3 Phillips Head bit. Secure the 4" self-tapping screw into the top flange of the pool through the holes that were just drilled into the coping. 12) Lift the front coping assembly off of the pool. Remove the protective film off of the sections of foam adhesive. Carefully reset the front coping assembly back onto the pool. Make sure that joints at the sides are front coping assembly are tight. Firmly press down on the assembly making sure that the foam adhesive is sticking to the coping. 13) Secure the front corner pieces to the long walls of the pool as described in step 10.

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Endless Pools Inc. 5/5/2011