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Home , California Limited, El Tovar Hotel, Grand Canyon Limited

VOL. 16 – NO. 2 www.GrandCanyonHistory.org APR/MAY/JUN 2005

In This Issue

Articles A DREAM REALIZED BY TWO BROTHERS by Bill Suran...... 6

THE OTHER EL TOVAR by Al Richmond...... 3

THAT RIM CONNECTION by Traci Wyrick ...... 4

TOLL ROADS & TRAILS by Mike Anderson...... 7

Departments PRESIDENT'S LETTER ...... 2

GRAND CANYON ASSOCIATION EVENTS ...... 11

GRAND CANYON FIELD INSTITUTE HISTORY CLASSES ...... 12

1 The Ol' Pioneer President's Letter The Quarterly Magazine of the Grand Canyon Historical Society

History is such a fascinating subject. So many VOL. 16 – NO. 2 APR/MAY/JUN 2005 important things have happened just at the Grand Canyon. EDITOR: Diane Cassidy Think of how many people through the centuries have spent a great deal of their lives, if not their entire lives, The Historical Society was established in July 1984 as a non-profit corporation to adding to the Canyon while being added to by the Canyon. develop and promote appreciation, understanding and education of the Recent evidence shows that the human story begins at least earlier history of the inhabitants and important events of the Grand Canyon 13,000 years ago. Probably every place at the Grand and surrounding area.

Canyon has a story – something to be learned. The Ol' Pioneer is published quarterly by the GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY who also publishes THE Here we all are, having spent all or part of our lives BULLETIN, a monthly newspaper. Both publications are a benefit of member- in this magnificent place, trying to preserve this story as ship. Membership in the Society is open to any person interested in the historical, best we can for future generations. Thus, they can know at educational, and charitable purposes of the Society. Membership is on an annual basis using the standard calendar; and least some of what went on at the Canyon. dues of $20 are payable on the 1st of January each year.

Knowingly or unknowingly, we are all with this act The Ol' Pioneer magazine is copyrighted becoming part of the history for the future. by the Grand Canyon Historical Society, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form without permission of the A great opportunity to be a part of that history is to publisher. add your knowledge and your research to that presented at Submit photos, stories, and comments to the History Symposium in 2007. Planning for this the editor of The Ol' Pioneer at: [email protected] or enterprise is just beginning, but everybody needs to start PO Box 10067, Prescott AZ 86304.

thinking now about what they could contribute. GCHS Officers/Board of Directors Keith Green, President; Mike Coltrin, Vice President and Outings Coordinator Linda Anderson, Treasurer Keith Green Lee Albertson, Secretary Todd Berger, Chairperson of Pioneer Award Mike Anderson Gale Burak Jim Ohlman

Web site: www.GrandCanyonHistory.org

2 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005

The Other El Tovar by Al Richmond – Sedona, AZ

In 1540 Don Pedro de cars, two Tourist Sleepers, Tovar, a captain in (Fred Harvey Coronado’s command on Service), Santa Fe the search for the fabled Observation-, and seven golden cities of three DeLuxe Chair cars. For Cibola in what is now convenience of passengers and New Mexico, who desired to change their heard of an immense chasm schedules somewhat, both that warranted inspection. connected with 23 and Unable to leave the Hopi 24 for service to and from Los villages he dispatched his Angeles. Connections also lieutenant, Don Garcia included trains to San Diego, Lopez de Cardeñas to make Oakland, and Denver with the journey. Several days additional equipment. later he and his men became El Tovar on 15 June 1941 as it steams doubleheaded into the In actuality, El Tovar ran the first Europeans to gaze Grand Canyon yards below . by design as a summer with awe into the [Ingersoll photo, Bassett collection.] "tourist special" and the magnificence that is now 1941 season brought yet Grand Canyon National Park. somehow learned of this will-o’-the- another change in schedule and On 14 January 1905, the Atchison, wisp found it even more difficult to consist. Instead of making the run Topeka and Santa Fe Railway and the actually prove El Tovar ran the Santa between Kansas City and , welcomed their Fe rails. she now ran only between Los first guests to the rustic, yet Small wonder El Tovar dwells in Angeles and Williams and continued magnificent El Tovar Hotel. Named obscurity. Born with good intentions, on to the South Rim as a second after a man who never saw the global circumstances and rapidly section to the Grand Canyon Canyon, it remains the premier hotel changing public transportation patterns Railway’s trains 14 and 15. on the south rim. In Santa Fe-Harvey led to an inconsistent itinerary, Apparently the logistics of running as tradition, many of their hotels in the discontinuance, rebirth, and finally, scheduled in 1940 proved to be too American Mid- and Southwest carried demise. Tracking her through ambitious an undertaking with the names of Spanish explorers. timetables and company publications insufficient revenues being realized. Cardeñas already had a hotel named is a “now you see it, and now you Presumably these changes came about for him at Trinidad, Colorado so by don’t” experience--much like a to provide passengers with better default Grand Canyon’s El Tovar mirage. System and adjacent division scheduling in and out of Carlsbad honored the man who launched the employee timetables issued on the Cavern National Park and between expedition that “discovered” the Grand same date may have her listed by name Denver and Kansas City. This action Canyon. and number on one, only number on created another little known train, the And, exactly four hundred years the other, in conjunction with a Centennial State. But that’s another later, the Santa Fe again dusted off companion train, or not at all. Others story. Pedro de Tovar’s name and added it to will have complete information El Tovar’s real claim to fame is the list of legendary name trains that including the consist.* Photographs that it did something that none of ran the western rails. Unquestionably are rare and those show her running Santa Fe’s other name trains did on a heady company, The , El with a mixed consist of Pullman green regular schedule--stop at Grand Capitan, , El and Budd stainless steel cars. Canyon. For many years the Santa Fe Tovar...El Tovar!? Certainly you have For its inaugural year, the 2 June system advertising proclaimed itself heard of the crack Santa Fe train and 21 July 1940 system timetables “The Grand Canyon Line.” This whose cross-country runs included a list El Tovar by name and number as a banner appeared in published station stop at Grand Canyon? No? no extra fare between Kansas City and advertising, on billboards, boxcars, Well then, join the ranks of most Los Angeles. Also included on Nos. and highway overpasses. The logo veteran Santa Fe employees, 123 (westbound) and 124 (eastbound) historians, and rail fans who never is a “completely air-conditioned” ...continued on page 10 heard of her either. And those who consist of Lounge car, five Sleeping

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005 3 That Rim Connection by Traci Wyrick – Killeen TX

From Grand Canyon's Don remembers how the park's oldest rocks, the Vishnu natural critters like salaman- Schist, ensconced alongside ders, snakes, lizards and the Colorado River, rising up squirrels became his pets, since to the layer of Tapeats Canyon families were not Sandstone, reaching higher to allowed to have domestic pets. the Bright Angel Shale and up Don adds, "I did a lot of to the Muav Limestone... the investigating on the rim and rock formations climb... until enjoyed exploring the many old ultimately the Eastern section mine tunnels below it. Being of Grand Canyon is rimmed raised at Grand Canyon was a with Kaibab Limestone. A wonderful experience." connection of rock, when Brown-eyed brunette Jo, a encountered by the millions Jo and Don's wedding day, August 22, 1957 transplanted Montanan, lived who come to see the several places in the Southwest enthralling natural wonder, creates a mules out of the Canyon that morning while her parents worked for Indian chorus of wows, oohs and aahs. after spending Christmas break with trading posts. During the Christmas season of 1952, father and husband Dean, a Canyon residents Don Schellbach and hydrographer on the Colorado River. When her dad was hired by the Jo Tidball happened upon another "We lived in Mesa when Dad got the United States Geological kind of connecting force at Grand job in Grand Canyon," relays Jo. Survey, the family was quite Canyon, when she, living beside the "Mother and we girls stayed there to surprised he would soon be chasm's granite gorge near Phantom finish out Mother's teaching job and living and working in one of the Ranch, met him, a Canyon villager, our remaining school year." most remote and deepest atop the Kaibab Limestone at the Don, who was born in New York Bright Angel Lodge. Although City, was a sophomore at Northern locations on Earth. neither one knew it at the time, they Arizona State Teachers College and "Although we couldn't live with would soon be oohing and aahing lived all of his 19 years at Grand Dad while we attended school, we much like that of first-time Canyon Canyon. "After eighth grade I roomed spent the holidays and summers with visitors, for they were looking at their and boarded at Wasatch Academy in him," relates Jo. "After Mesa, Mother lifetime love for the first time. Mt. Pleasant, Utah," says Don, was hired at Grand Canyon Public Then 19-year-old Don was "because Grand Canyon didn't have a Schools on the South Rim, and Gay playing the song "Blue Lagoon" on high school." and I attended our final year of high the piano in the multi-purpose rim- The son of chief park naturalist school in Flagstaff." side room of the Bright Angel Lodge Don and Jo seldom saw each on the morning that 17-year-old Jo Louis Schellbach III and other after their encounter at Bright entered the building and heard the teacher/college actress Ethyl Angel Lodge. Don relays, "Our charming melody wafting through the Williams, Don was a romance really began after my friend, air. "I remember how I liked the way knowledgeable Canyon Sam Turner, who was dating Gay, the music sounded," recalls Jo. "I resident. brought Jo and her sister out to went over to see just who was at the Lowell Observatory, where I was piano." Don had rehearsed the song "The community was small then," working in the Fall of 1953. We repeatedly for a piano recital. "I knew recalls Don, "and consisted of park began dating then and became quite how to play it very well," he added. service personnel, Fred Harvey serious after a few dates." (One could Employed as a bellhop during Company employees, railroad say the couple's spirits were finally Christmas vacation, the blue-eyed personnel and Hopi Indians. The lifted to the near 7,000 foot elevation blond enjoyed taking his breaks at the place being so small, I knew almost where they met.) The pair frequented piano. Jo remembers they visited for everyone. I'd help my Dad a lot by movies, parties and other activities a short while and exchanged names, going out hunting insects, butterflies during the following months. "Don before she had to leave on the bus for and plants with him. He taught me would drive me back and forth Mesa with her mother Edna and twin how to prepare and mount specimens ...continued on next page sister Gay. The trio had just ridden and how to press them for display."

4 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005

That Rim Connection...continued from previous page between school in Flagstaff and the two children, Craig and Traci, were Today, the couple is enjoying South Rim to see my Mother on born in Bangor, Maine while I was their retirement in Wichita Falls, weekends," says Jo. Overall, the stationed there," says Don. The . Each morning they relax in couple agrees their favorite place to family lived in many interesting their den, enjoying a cup of coffee, go was the Bright Angel Lodge. "We places, including Salt Lake City, the newspaper and the tranquil view and our friends would all end up Utah, Misawa, Japan, Travis A.F.B., out their back windows of their water gathering there," says Jo. "The lodge and Altus, Oklahoma, fountain, songbirds and lush yard. manager would often joke how there during Don's 20-year-tenure with the Above their fireplace mantle, hangs were more locals at the evening Air Force. Jo recalls, since she and Jo's 32"x24" painting of Grand entertainment than tourists. We really Don left Grand Canyon, they have Canyon. "Grand Canyon has been enjoyed that place." Jo says the returned about four times. "Not part of our everyday-life for 32 years holidays and summer months she nearly enough," says Jo. now," says Jo. "It's hard to believe lived beside the Colorado River with While the family lived in Altus, how populated the Grand Canyon her dad and she didn't see Don. "He Jo took oil painting classes and area is now. Tourism is so extensive. said it was too much work to come recreated a Thomas Moran painting Life seemed pretty simple when Don see me," she says, laughing. of Grand Canyon for Don. "The print and I lived there." The couple has a Don joined the Air Force in was a favorite of Don's," says Jo, piano in their living room which March 1954 and was stationed at San "and I tried to use it as a guide to they've owned for 36 years. Inside the Angelo, Texas, while Jo entered paint the canyon. Painting cliffs and bench is the sheet music to Blue nursing school in Albuquerque the canyons was challenging but fun to Lagoon. "That is where it all started following August. "We kept a tight do." She worked on her artistic for us," reminisces Jo. "A simple correspondence and saw each other as endeavor the year Don was stationed connection which led to a big often as we could," says Don. "On in Thailand, and hung it where the attraction." long weekends I would drive to see original print had been in their home. Like the rock formations in Jo's her, and on one occasion I flew to Don recalls, "I returned home and painting of Grand Canyon, Don and Albuquerque on a navigation training sensed something was different about Jo have remained as steadfast and mission in the B25 with my students the painting, particularly the brush connected to each other as they are to to visit her. I enjoyed showing her the strokes. A few days went by before I the Canyon itself. It's just what love plane." told Jo something was different. ought to be, and oh... isn't it Grand. The couple had dated four years When she told me she had painted it, when Don proposed in December I thought it was pretty neat and quite Traci is the proud and loving 1956. They were married the remarkable." daughter of Don and Jo. following August in Flagstaff. "Our

Jo and Don at their home in Wichita Falls, Texas, standing in front of Grand Canyon painting by Jo, August 22, 2004.

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005 5 A Dream Realized by Two Brothers by Bill Suran – Birmingham AL

While I should be very much and Stone. Each of these made ashamed of myself sitting around Ellsworth's desires even greater. He doing nothing for the last week, I had now had to make the trip himself. His a little feeling of guilt and went to brother Emery, a photographer, work. Now I don't mean it was would be the ideal companion on a anything really worth bragging about, trip like the one he had in mind. but it was something that I could call Thus, Emery became the next in line. work. I arose from my easy chair and It was not long before the two Kolbs proceeded to my work table, fished headed to Wyoming to begin a long out my file box, took out the key, and trip down the Colorado. From this went through a bunch of almost point the story tells us only the worthless stuff, and ran across a happenings of the trip winding down book. That made a quick stop to the the Colorado River. It gives a closely One other thing not mentioned by work project and set me to going written picture of going over rough Ellsworth in his book was the true through the worn out pages. Now, to sections of water, visiting with people event between Emery and Blanch be honest with you, this old worn out they met along the way, and upsetting when they returned on the first half of publication really put me to doing their boats. The writing is explicit in the river tip. Ellsworth relates that something. its description from Wyoming and "Emery's wife was ill with appendici- The book is a first edition of across the border to Mexico with only tis all the time we were gone on the Ellsworth Kolb's Through the Grand a month-long stop at their home place trip." The true fact was the Blanch Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico. in the Grand Canyon. was pregnant the entire time and was Now the volume you pick up at the Ellsworth gives no mention of the near the point of giving birth when library or in a book store is something preparation for the trip, or words of they arrived home, making it neces- a good many of you have taken home Emery making any effort in leaving sary for Emery, Blanch and his and read, and I must agree it is the the work at the photo shop at the daughter, Edith, to make a quick trip same text that I found in my box. But, Canyon home to his wife or younger to a Los Angeles hospital. Emery to read again the pages of the original brother. The book covers the trip and remained there for a month until copy printed in 1914 (which is not THAT IS ALL. Blanch and Edith were able to return found very often at the library or in a If it had not been for Emery and home. book store) to me is something rare his wife at the Canyon, prior to the It was Gale's interest in the Grand and a bit different. departure for Wyoming, keeping Canyon and her recording of a vast Now, it is not my intention to tell records of what Ellsworth spent in amount of information that she filed you all about the contents of this 344 New York getting supplies and that gave us the mass of material page epistle, but I am going to tell locating a moving picture camera, about Emery's work during the start you some interesting things about the there would never have been any of the great trip and what happened in book that perhaps some of you are indication of where or what was his work after they returned back at not familiar. bought or used before the famous trip the Grand Canyon studio. To begin with, Ellsworth was took place. Other items that were Now, while I could spend hours more or less a playboy, and if any- never mentioned about the trip were repeating all the items involved after thing came to his mind that would the names of Emery Kolb's wife the trip that Gale managed to record, keep him from actually doing work, Blanch and his daughter Edith, which you would have to spend hours and he was right on the scene to do it. were mentioned only once. even days going through it all. So, all That is what started this. Ellsworth Here we offer the help of Gale I will say here is that page after page heard about J. W. Powell and his Burak who worked for Emery in his of this information can be found in crew making the first trip from later years and helped him sort papers my book The Brave Ones, The Wyoming through the Canyon and containing letters and bills that Emery Journals and Letters of the 1911-12 that set him off. From on thing to and Blanch had saved throughout the Expedition Down the Green and another, he became enthusiastic about years. Gale recorded this material and Colorado Rivers by Ellsworth L. Kolb making a private trip down the at the same time managed to get and Emery C. Kolb including the river—not just to the place where Emery to tell the stories that were journal of Hubert R. Lauzon, Powell stopped, but all the way to written and preserved giving us the published by Fretwater Press. Mexico. information to all the records placed Powell was followed by a number in boxes and stuffed on shelves in a Editor's Note: Bill Suran is also the of other explorers such as Stanton, closet at home. author of The Kolb Brothers of Grand Galloway, Flavell, Russell, Monett Canyon published by the Grand Canyon Natural History Association.

6 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005

Toll Roads & Trails by Mike Anderson – Grand Canyon AZ Presented to the Grand Canyon River Guides Training Seminar on March 27, 2005.

Mike Anderson's love for Grand Canyon trails began in 1990 when the hired him to write a history of the North and South Bass trails. This assignment led to more research and, with colleague Debra Sutphen, the nomination of ten of the Canyon's more popular paths to the National Register of Historic Places. Today, Mike is the Park's trails archeologist, a job that requires him to hike the trails, record their historic structures with an eye toward preservation, and write of their history. Here, he argues that many of the Canyon's early trails, not just the Bright Angel, were built as toll roads, and that their builders were betting on the boom promised by Mike at 3-Mile Rest House arrival of the . on Bright Angel Trail.

Arizona became a territory of the throughout these years, and, to a construction in any one year, he was United States in 1863. Soon lesser degree, a railway to the North required to pay the entire excess to thereafter, its legislature assigned the Rim in the years that followed, the the state school fund. responsibility to build and maintain wide geographic distribution of A builder was responsible for roads to the counties, passing laws to claims suggests pioneer gamblers' keeping his road or trail in good provide guidelines for both public uncertainty as to their exact terminus order, and was "liable" for the safety roads and privately constructed toll and the manner in which inner- of travelers if proved negligent. He roads. Considering the importance of canyon travel patters would develop. was subject to prosecution if he roads to commerce, alongside chronic To understand the importance of charged more than the posted rates; impoverishment of county and proprietary travel ways to early likewise, travelers who tried to territorial coffers, it is no surprise that residents, and their willingness to circumvent tollgates were subject to legislators encouraged citizens to build them, it is helpful to consider $50 fines. He was allowed to operate build and maintain their own roads. contemporary laws concerning their the road or trail for 10 years; For these reasons, laws remained construction and operation. Laws however, the county could opt to buy consistently generous and simplistic passed in 1887 and 1901, which it after the initial 5 years. At the end throughout the territorial period. They guided claimants in the Canyon's of the first 10 years, the county at its are, in fact, still on the books, and a early pioneer period, were nearly discretion could extend the franchise glance at today's state statutes reveals identical. Anyone could file a for another 5 years. After that time— that it is still possible to build your certificate with the county recorder 15 years in all—ownership passed to very own toll road. that supplied the name of the road, its the county, which could continue to Toll roads and trails were built or two termini, and a plat map that could operate the road or trail and collect simply conjured by enterprising be hand drawn and, not necessarily tolls or declare it a "free highway." businessmen at Grand Canyon in the clear, to scale or resembling Most lovers of Canyon history years 1891 through 1903. These years geographic reality. Claimants usually are familiar with the battle to control coincide with the imminent promise included a general description of the the Bright angel Toll Road, recorded then arrival of the Grand Canyon route, although it was not required. in 1891, and more commonly called Railway in September 1901, years The builder had to begin construction the Bright Angel or Cameron's Trail. when astute local residents sensed an within 30 days of the claim and This divisive struggle permeated impending tourism boom at the South continue with "reasonable dispatch" early South Rim history, and among Rim. Research in the County until completed. He was assigned the other issues relevant to public versus Recorders Office at Flagstaff power of eminent domain for a 45- private rights, underscores the uncovered no claims outside this date foot right-of-way through private importance of proprietary roads and range. Therefore, early prospectors property. Once completed, the builder trails to their builders. Without and tourism operators were betting on was allowed to set a reasonable recounting the various tactics and the Canyon's potential in relation to charge (that could be challenged by strategies of this 20-year conflict, the railway and not responding to any ten taxpayers if they thought it suffice it to say that Ralph Cameron, needs of the 1890s when travel to the too high) and was required to post the chairman of the Coconino County South Rim in horse-drawn fare on a billboard at each tollgate. Board of Supervisors in 1950-07, conveyances remained light. He had to keep records, file quarterly convinced the territorial legislature to Moreover, although savvy locals with reports, and pay the county 2% of pass a new toll road law, known at Canyon interests expected and receipts. After three years, if receipts the time as the "Cameron Law." promoted a railway to the South Rim exceeded 50% of the cost of ...continued on page 8

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005 7 Toll Roads & Trails...continued from page 7

"mountains or precipitous places" where vehicular roads were not practicable. Former laws did not mention trails at all, although this seemed to be understood and common practice as many claimants in the 1891- 1903 period identified their claims as a toll "trail" or "toll road or trail." This new provision, too, was made retroactive to the beginning of the toll road statutes. Another clause indicated that the road or trail did not have to follow its plat map exactly, but only the "general course" between two specified termini. Pete Berry's original 1891 Bill Bass's Mystic Spring Toll Trail, today's upper South Bass Trail. Bright Angel plat is quite specific, Original Bass retaining wall at the top of the Coconino Sandstone. delineating in fact the length of tangents between switchbacks to the Cameron had good economic reasons The new law also stipulated that if nearest foot. The actual trail probably to push for such a law, since he had original owners did not ask for an did not follow the plat exactly, and this spent money on the Bright Angel's extension within 30 days of expiration, provision covered that possibility. construction in 1890-91 and again in another party could acquired the Finally, and somewhat mys- 1897-1900, yet had only begun charg- franchise for 5 years and keep all teriously, the 1907 law provided that ing tolls in 1903, just 3 years prior to receipts, paying only a "reasonable any road on which tolls had been the legal expiration of the franchise. percentage" to the county. If the owners regularly collected for the year or more This had hardly been enough time to had lost the franchise for any reason prior to January 1907, and which had secure a reasonable return on his and prior this act (which Berry and his been maintained as a toll road, was his partners' investments. friends did in early 1906), they were declared valid under this and previous The new legislation, effective in given 30 days after passage of this law laws. The only road or trail in the March 1907, lengthened the franchise to reapply for the additional 5 years. Grand Canyon region that fulfilled both extension from 5 to 10 years, and These new clauses in the toll road law requirements as the Bright Angel (and stipulated that if the county had taken allowed either Berry to reapply or, if he probably the Lees Ferry Toll Road). control of the road at the time of the chose not to, allowed Cameron as an Was the intent simply to clarify the law's passage, the original builder(s) original owners as well as transferred to Bright Angle Trail as a toll road, or was could regain and control it for the full reapply Cameron in fact did reapply, it to render all prior claims to Canyon 10-year extension. Cameron's partner, reacquired the franchise in his own toll roads null and void by virtue of not Pete Berry (official recorder of the trail) name in 1907, and held it until 1912. meeting these requirements? If the had surrendered the franchise to the Note that is was in 1907, no doubt in latter, it would quiet any claims that county in early 1906, in accordance response to the new law's "reasonable Pete Berry might have to the Grand with terms of the 1887 and 1901 laws. percentage" clause, that the Santa Fe View Trail or Bill Bass might have to The new legislation succinctly allowed offered to pay the county 70% of the Mystic Spring Toll Trail, among Berry and his partners, including receipts and provide liability insurance many others. Was this a Cameron Cameron, to regain the franchise. In if they were awarded the franchise. The compromise to territorial legislators, as addition, prior laws had not mentioned three-man county board, however, with in, "we will help you on this one, Ralph the legality of transferring toll road Ralph Cameron as its chairman, but we don't want any more of these privileges from the builder to another awarded it to Ralph Cameron, battles coming our way"? It seems party, but the courts had ruled in 1904 businessman, for only 12% of receipts. uncharacteristic for Cameron, a popular through 1906 that it had been illegal for Several additional changes in the man among territorial residents, to sell Berry to transfer the Bright Angel 1907 law seem intended to cover Ralph out contemporaries like Berry, Louis franchise to Cameron in 1901. The new Cameron's rear in the event his rights Boucher, and others who had built and law, retroactively, made Cameron's were ever again questioned. A new claimed Canyon toll trails. Then again, original sole acquisition in 1901 legal. clause clarified toll "roads" to include Cameron had laid claims to a trail "trails" which could be built in through Hermit Basin to the River and ...continued on next page

8 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005

Toll Roads & Trails...continued from previous page to most of the Tonto Trail in 1902. He Canyon's approach roads and inner- the Bright Angel Trail. Buckey called it had built neither of these, at least not on canyon trails. Indian Gardens Toll Road when his own, and did not seem concerned The number of claims and recorded in November 1897 and it is for his friends' interests. geographic diversity supports several known that he worked on this trail in In any event, the Cameron Law conclusions. Canyon pioneers were that year. Cameron and O'Neill was written in extraordinary detail to hopeful businessmen, willing to risk probably had words over this, but they benefit one and only one person. This their meager capital and physical labor also had common interests and, in any fact did not escape the keen eye of the in hopes of future rewards. In the event, O'Neill died in 1898. What a noted jurist and Arizona's federally process, they identified and in many battled that would have been! appointed governor, Joseph Kibbey, cases built the first approach roads and • James S. Emett, a wagon rod from who vetoed the bill faster than you can inner-canyon trails that connected the point 1-1/2 mile west of Lees Ferry say "Ralph Cameron." The legislature, Canyon with the outside world, north of the river named North Gate, to however, elected by territorial residents facilitating the Canyon's only viable a point 1-1/2 mile west of the ferry who favored individual enterprise and economy—tourism. Some of these south of the river named South Gate, admired Cameron, mustered the 2/3 roads and trails, or at least their general the entire road named the Lee's Ferry vote necessary to override the veto routes, are familiar to us today because Toll Road when recorded in May 1898. faster than you can say "we beg to they became strategic avenues of Emett in fact did rebuild the old differ." The bill became law on March tourist travel in succeeding years. Mormon emigrant road near the river 18, 1907. Within 2 years, the Santa Fe Others are puzzling in any context, but an charged tolls at the ferry. Railroad and federal government (for interesting: • William F. Hull, P. C. Bicknell, W. F. the time being) gave up their struggle • Julius Farlee, stage road from Peach McAdams, a 2-1/2 mile unnamed trail for control of the Bright Angel trail. Springs to the Colorado River recorded from a point on Horn Creek straight railroad managers instead, in 1909, ca. 1893 in Mojave County (all other down to the river, reportedly marked by allied themselves with the U.S. Forest claims below are from Coconino stone monuments, recorded in July Service, managers of the one-year-old County). 1901. Grand Canyon National Monument, • William Bass, today's South Bass • W. H. Ashurst, John Marshall, C. H. and went to work building Hermit Rim Trial to the Esplanade, called Mystic McClure, and T. C. Frier, all Road, Trail, and Camp to circumvent Spring Toll Trail when recorded in experienced Canyon prospectors, Cameron's lock on the central trail August 1891. recorded the Cottonwood Tool Road in corridor. • William Bass, wagon road from December 1891. Its route, or proposed Ralph Cameron's one-man war Williams to Bass Camp, called Grand route, began at the rim about 4 miles against anyone who would interfere Canon Toll Road, November 1891. west of the old Hance Trail, "above and with his trail rights and his • Ralph Cameron, stock trail to opposite the head of Cottonwood manipulation of territorial laws is owed Horseshoe Mesa (Grandview Trail), Creek," thence down Cottonwood to the Grand Canyon Railway's arrival called Grand View Toll Road when Creek, east across the Tonto Trial near his trailhead in 1901. The railway recorded in March 1893. Sole below Horseshoe Mesa to the Water created demand for this inner-canyon ownership later passed to Pete Berry in Front Mine, a distance of about 7 miles. trail, so it made economic sense to erect exchange for his Bright Angel Trail If, in fact, built, the upper segment may a tollgate, hire gatekeepers, charge his interests. have been an earlier version of the one-dollar toll, and fight for his • John Marshall, C. H. McClure, T. C. Grandview Trial, improved by Berry interests. We can speculate that had the Frier, John Hance, and Willliam and his partners for stock use a year railway arrived at Grand View Point or Ashurst, an unnamed trail down Red later. The middle segment could be Bass Camp (alternative destinations Canyon and across the river through today's Cottonwood Creek Trail. The considered in the late 1880s and Hance's asbestos claims and very likely terminal segment description resembles 1890s), Pete Berry or William Wallace to Clear and Bright Angle Creeks—a today's Tonto Trail and the long- Bass—pretty hardheaded individualists total distance of 27 miles, per the claim. abandoned and unnamed trail down themselves—would have reacted Recorded in January 1894, the first 8 into the schist at Hance Creek. similarly. The fact that they and others miles south of the river is today named lost the railway gamble and did not the New Hance Trail, but has also been Editor's Note: Mike's article is one of have the opportunity to capitalize on called the Red Canyon Trial. many included in the Proceedings of the their claims in no way diminishes their • Buckey O'Neill, trail from "O'Neill 2002 Grand Canyon History Symposium, investments, labors, and aspirations to Camp" (today's O'Neill Cabin) to the scheduled for publication by the Grand make a decent living by building Grand river via Indian Garden. This overlays Canyon Association in Fall 2005

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005 9 The Other El Tovar...continued from page 3

came with considerable justification as trains back in service. Along with At the south rim of the Grand along with today’s Grand Canyon complete renovation of The Chief and Canyon, today’s Grand Canyon Railway it is the only railroad that on their east-west runs Railway arrives and departs daily with carried passengers into a national park between and Los Angeles, more tourists than the Santa Fe ever on a regular schedule and this was the Santa Fe revived El Tovar on 2 June thought possible and El Tovar Hotel thrust of their promotion. However, 1946 for the summer season with a continues as the premier hostelry. But the , , twist on the 1941 schedule. For this no one there remembers the other El Grand Canyon Limited, and The summer she departed Los Angeles but Tovar--the one that actually traveled to all passed through Williams on their instead of being terminated at the rim of the abyss four hundred years east- and west-bound journeys without Williams and continuing as a second after and in place of its Spanish ever once going up the sixty-five miles section to the Canyon, El Tovar ran explorer namesake. of track to the Grand Canyon, their round trip between Los Angeles and promotional namesake. Grand Canyon under her own name *Consist is a railroad term for the makeup Two exceptions occurred in and train numbers of 123 and 124. of the train...number and type of engines February of 1938 and 1939. The With this schedule she also served as and cars. inaugural first sections of El Capitan the “local” between Williams and the and The Chief out of Los Angeles South Rim because trains 14 and 15 departed from their regular schedules did not return to service until to make the round trip on the Grand 29 September 1946. Canyon line for public relations stops. By 1947 private automobiles, El Capitan arrived in 1938 with EMC along with existing and fledgling E-1 No. 6 in its brand new war bonnet airlines, began to make substantial livery. To take advantage of the inroads into rail passenger traffic. contrast between the snow and the Railroad lines across the country had brightly colored unit with its new long recognized that their profits came stainless steel consist, El Capitan from freight while passenger service remained at Grand Canyon for almost served as a constant drain on revenues two days. Too bad the photographer and resources. Consequently, when used black and white film. The Chief presented with the opportunity also arrived in a snow storm but provided by WWII, all began to powered by EMC E-3 demonstrator reorganize and limit their passenger No. 822 in its company colors it service. El Tovar became one of the proved somewhat less impressive for first casualties of the cutbacks. The the photographer. These were the last Santa Fe came to rely on their high diesels to run the line until 1951. For speed east-west through trains instead its brief lifetime, El Tovar ran entirely of shorter runs and although the with steam power. Southwest and Grand Canyon National

World War II led to the Park figured prominently in their discontinuance of El Tovar’s 1942 promotions, the passenger service summer schedule and the Grand department ceased to refer to the Canyon Railway also ceased to run in railroad system as The Grand Canyon September 1942 for the same reason. Line. Due to the war effort, motive power With issuance of the 29 September and rolling stock were in short supply 1946 timetables, a potentially and the public did little traveling legendary Santa Fe name train became except when really necessary. Prior to enshrouded in the fog of history. It is the war, El Tovar appears in the 2 June almost as if some puckish entity

1940 and 8 June 1941, and disappears systematically expunged El Tovar with issuance of the 27 October 1940 from the collective memories of even and 7 September 1941 employee the longest Santa Fe employees and timetables. Grand Canyon residents when she At the end of the War, American vanished from the schedule. railroads rushed to get their passenger

10 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005

Grand Canyon Association Events

The Grand Canyon Association has produced Canyon Country Community Lecture Series, a series of lectures held in Flagstaff and Prescott. Prescott lectures will be held at Sharlot Hall Museum, 415 W. Gurley (two blocks west of Courthouse Plaza). Space at the Prescott lecture series is limited; please call (928) 445-3122 to inquire about seating. Flagstaff lectures will be held at Cline Library, at the intersection of Knoles Drive and McCreary Road on the NAU campus. Parking is available to the west of the library (Lot P13 on Riordan Road). During the summer of 2005, lectures normally held in Flagstaff at Cline Library will be held at the Shrine of the Ages at the South Rim. The series in Prescott will take the summer off and resume in the fall. All lectures are free and open to the public. If you have any questions about the events listed on this page, please write Grand Canyon Association at PO Box 399, Grand Canyon AZ 86023 or [email protected] or call (800) 858-2808 or visit www.grandcanyon.org.

April 6 May 6 July 13 The Kolb Brothers of Grand Canyon The Life and Art of Lillian Wilhelm Theories and Legends of How the presented by Colorado River guide and Smith presented by Donna Ashworth. Grand Canyon was Formed multimedia producer Lew Steiger. Lew Men who journeyed to northern Author of Carving Grand Canyon, just has spent hundreds of hours research- Arizona to record its landscape in paint released by the Grand Canyon ing the adventures and antics of early are well known. In addition, there were Association, Wayne Ranney will Grand Canyon entrepreneurs Ellsworth women artists here, but their names and discuss theories and legends about how and Emery Kolb. The Cline Library's work have mostly been forgotten. In the Grand Canyon formed. Ranney has Kolb Collection has provided much of 1913, at the age of 29, Lillian Wilhelm authored numerous books on northern the information and most of the photo- traveled from Manhattan to Arizona as Arizona geology and is a professor of graphs that Lew and his brother Gail part of Zane Grey's first expedition to geology at Yavapai College in Prescott. have woven into a film for public tele- Rainbow Bridge, fell in love with what Ranney will be signing copies of his vision, an interactive kiosk at historic she called "this blessed land," and went new book, which will be for sale at the Kolb Studio on the Canyon's South on to paint its scenery and people for lecture. This South Rim lecture begins Rim, and an upcoming CD-ROM that the next 60 years. The Flagstaff lecture at 7:00 PM at the Shrine of the Ages. captures the Kolb brothers' personali- begins at 6:30 PM at the NAU Cline ties and times in which these pioneers Library. August 24 lived. The Flagstaff lecture begins at Lake Powell and Photography 6:30 PM at the NAU Cline Library. June 22 Renowned photographer of the Fossils of the Colorado Plateau southwest Gary Ladd will be on hand April 17 Geologist, guide, and self-described to discuss Lake Powell and Life Through Time in Grand Canyon “earth science storyteller” Christa photography. Ladd’s published work Join biologist and former Grand Sadler will speak about fossils of the includes Grand Canyon: Time Below Canyon National Park ecologist Larry Colorado Plateau. The lecture will the Rim, Along the Rim: A Guide to Stevens, Ph.D, as he traces the history coincide with the release of Sadler’s Grand Canyon’s South Rim from of life at Grand Canyon—from the new book, Life in Stone: Fossils of the to Desert View (published single-cell organisms of our primordial Colorado Plateau, published by the by Grand Canyon Association), and past to the slightly more evolved river Grand Canyon Association. Copies of Gary Ladd’s Canyon Light. Ladd will runners of today. The Prescott lecture her book can be purchased at the sign copies of his various books, all of begins at 1:00 PM. at Sharlot Hall lecture, and the author will be available which will be available for purchase at Museum. for book signing. This South Rim the lecture. This South Rim lecture lecture begins at 7:00 PM at the Shrine begins at 7:00 PM at the Shrine of the of the Ages. Ages.

GCA Exhibits April 2-30 April 11 – June 5 Writing Down the River exhibit will be featured at the Arizona Arts for the Parks – Top 100 Tour exhibit at State Library's Carnegie Center in Phoenix. The exhibition is part Kolb Studio on the South Rim is a national of the state's month-long OneBookAZ celebration in which Brad competition conducted by the National Park Dimock's and Lisa Michaels's books about the Hyde couple's Academy of the Arts. Paintings depict land- disappearance in 1928 play a prominent role as the state's scapes, wildlife, and cultural themes preserved OneBookAZ selections. The exhibit is derived from the book by by the National Park System nationwide. This the same name, Writing Down the River (by Kathleen Jo Ryan), exhibition features the top 100 paintings selected which was recently published in paperback form by Grand from thousands entered in the 2004 competition. Canyon Association.

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005 11 Grand Canyon Field Institute History Classes

Grand Canyon Association, a nonprofit partner of Grand Canyon National Park, established the Grand Canyon Field Institute (GCFI) in 1993. GCFI's mission is to share the rich cultural and natural history of Grand Canyon National Park with park visitors, employees, residents, and students, as well as non-visiting enthusiasts. Through both on-site experience and outreach programming, participants explore the Grand Canyon and surrounding areas in depth. GCFI offers guided educational tours at Grand Canyon National Park led by expert instructors. Classes may include backpacking, camping, hiking, and whitewater rafting. Topics include geology, ecology, archaeology, history, photography, and more. For details or to register call 866-471-4435 or visit http://www.grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute. These two Learning & Lodging classes (lodging and some meals included), co-sponsored by Grand Canyon Field Institute and Xanterra Parks & Resorts, may be of interest to members of the Grand Canyon Historical Society:

Lives & Lore of Grand Canyon Legends Women of the Grand Canyon Aug. 26-28; Fee: $371 Sept. 18-20; Fee: $371 Join Mike Anderson on a tour of historic South From maverick architect to the fabled Harvey Rim sites as he recalls the lives of the visionary Girls, women have been making their mark at Grand pioneers and settlers that were first drawn to the Canyon since the early days. Accompany Denise Traver as world's most famous chasm. she shares the stories of these hardy souls.

Grand Canyon Historical Society PRSRT STD P.O. Box 10067 U.S. POSTAGE Prescott, Arizona 86304-0067 PAID 02-05 PRESCOTT, AZ PERMIT #43 ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

12 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, APR/MAY/JUN 2005