Fellows News Nov. 2005
Center for Kansas Studies political redistricting in Kansas and Tom Schmiedeler, Director Reprints Speaking French in how this has affected Kansas's power Kansas 785-231-1010-1559 and voice in the United States. Gabi [email protected] As part of its educational mission to Lunte will present research on map- print and/or reprint important liter- ping German dialects to their original Deborah Altus, Human Services ary texts either by Kansans, or about places in Europe. Margaret Wood will Tom Averill, English Kansas, the center announces the present on cemeteries as a map of Robert Beatty, Political Science reprint edition of Speaking French in social class and boundaries. Amy Roy Bird, English Kansas, by Kansan Robert Day. Long Fleury will be creating a literary guide Marcia Cebulska, Playwright Jennie Chinn, KSHS considered one of Kansas' best con- to Switzerland. And Marydorsey Virgil Dean, KSHS temporary writers, due in part to the Wanless will be creating a memory Paul Fecteau, English huge success of The Last Cattle Drive, map of a farm south of Topeka. Tom Averill, faculty coordinator of the col- Amy Fleury, English Bob Day continues to maintain his William Gilliland, Geology relationship—both in residency and loquium, will share a paper on Kansas and Maps. Rachel Goossen, History in fiction—with Kansas. Professor of Amanda Hamon, Mulvane Art Museum English and American Literature at Kansas Center for the Book Robert Hull, Finance Washington College, in Chestertown, Reinhild Janzen, Art Maryland, Bob and his wife, the artist Roy Bird, adjunct English, became Jim Kelly, KTWU Kathryn Jankus Day, live in St. the Director of the Kansas Center for Dave Kendall, KTWU Michel de Montaigne, France, and in the Book after its move from Topeka Robert Lawson, English Ludell, Kansas. Reprint editor Tom and Shawnee County Public Library Gabrielle Lunte, Modern Languages Averill, a fellow of the Center, writes: to the Kansas State Library in July, Bruce Mactavish, History “Although best known for his The Last 2005. The Kansas Center for the Book Ed Marchant, CIS Cattle Drive, Day's two novellas and (KCFB) is dedicated to promoting Judith McConnell, Education the short stories in Speaking French in Kansas authors, Kansas books, Mary McCoy, Biology Kansas show philosophical and liter- libraries, publishers, booksellers, and Marguerite Perret, Art ary sides of Day's work that make the literary events. It does not use state or Mark Peterson, Political Science book a must for reprint. This is a won- federal funds; instead, KCFB is J. Karen Ray, English William Roach, Business derful, and teachable, collection of funded by Library and Commercial Betsy Knabe Roe, Art fiction.” Affiliates and through its Fellows. The Tom Schmiedeler, Geography Fellows also provides a pool of volun- Center Fellows part of Faculty Bradley Siebert, English teers to help with KCFB projects. Loran Smith, Political Science Colloquium on Mapping KCFB currently is conducting Letters Margaret Stewart, English Six Center Fellows are participating in About Literature, a grade 4-12 reading Sara Tucker, History this fall's Faculty Colloquium. “Map- and writing initiative through the Cen- William Wagnon, History ping and Beyond” has gathered ter for the Book in the Library of Mary Wanless, Art Washburn faculty whose research Congress; a statewide book fair will Ron Wasserstein, Academic Affairs involves mapping, charting, repre- occur in October 2006; up to 20 Tom Wolf, Biology senting, predicting and imagining the Kansas Notable Books 2005 will be Margaret Wood, Soc./Anthropology Carol Yoho, Art world—from the two-dimensional to recognized in April 2006; a Kansas three dimensions, and beyond. Tom authors event will be hosted at the Schmiedeler, Center director, will Center for Kansas Studies annual library conference in April www.washburn.edu/cks present a paper on Midwestern town 2006; an adult One State-One Book forms. Mark Peterson will talk about —cont., p. 2
1 Fellows News, cont. project is being considered; a hard Kansas including KSNT-TV in November. Mr. Richardson’s photo- copy newsletter, including book re- Topeka. The documentary is also graphic essay on Cuba, Kansas, was views, will be published before the being sent to every high school in published in the magazine in May end of 2005; and a new, redesigned Kansas for use in history, govern- 2004. He will direct the students in website with a Kansas authors data- ment, and Kansas History classes. editing their projects. base is being developed. The KCFB Towns were selected for the project held its official ribbon cutting featur- Students Photograph Small based on population size (approxi- ing Governor Kathleen Sebelius, Town Life in Kansas mately 500–1200 residents), proximity John Y. Cole, director of the Center to Topeka, student/town relations, for the Book in the Library of Con- Washburn University photography self-sufficiency, and community pride. gress, state Poet Laureate Jonathan students are working in conjunction Towns included are Onaga, Alma, Holden, and State Librarian Christie with the Kansas State Historical Eskridge, Burlingame, Lyndon, Over- Brandau. Roy has also presented Society and the Center for Kansas brook, Valley Falls, Hoyt, Oskaloosa, eight programs in Kansas and repre- Studies to document small towns in Centralia, and Sabetha. There are 18 sented KCFB at the National Book Northeast Kansas. The semester long students involved in the project, and Festival on the National Mall in class is being conducted through the they will be working in their assigned Washington DC on September 24. If Washburn Art Department under the town for the entire Fall 2005 semester. you are interested in becoming a Fel- guidance of art professor Mary- low of the Kansas Center for the Book dorsey Wanless. he film for the project was contact Roy through the English Students have received extensive donated by the Center for Department or at the State Library, T training in documentary research. Kansas Studies. All finished photo- 296-4105. Speakers include Tom Averill, Litera- graphs and the negatives will be ture of Kansas; Dale Nimz, Kansas donated to the Kansas State Histori- “The Kansas Governor” Rural Architecture; Jim Kelly, KTWU cal Society. The Historical Society is Video Unveiled Sunflower Journeys; Dr. Tom also donating copies of old photo- “The Kansas Governor,” a one-hour Schmiedeler, Geography and Layouts graphs from its collection for the final film on the role and history of the of Kansas Towns; Paul Fecteau, exhibition, which will take place at Governor in the state, was released Memory Maps; Dean Bruce Mac- the Mabee Library on the Washburn on May 18, 2005 with an unveiling Tavish, History of NE Kansas; Brett campus beginning in early December party at Washburn that featured Knappe, History of Documentary through the end of March. All towns Governor Kathleen Sebelius and Photography; Nancy Sherbert, Pho- involved will receive copies of the three former governors. The film, pro- tography Collection of Kansas State photographs for their archives. duced by Center For Kansas Fellows Historical Society; and Pat Michaelis, Bob Beatty and Mark Peterson, re- Researching and Interviewing Tech- The students welcome any help from ceived grant funding from the Center. niques. Students will research and residents and friends. Although the It aired on public television in August present an indepth research paper students are documenting the pres- and September in Missouri and in comparing the present to the “hay- ent, they would like to see old day” of rural Kansas photographs, letters, diaries, etc., as towns in the early well as hear the concerns that local 1900s. residents have about the future of small rural towns in Kansas. To con- Jim Richardson of tact the students, call: National Geographic Marydorsey Wanless will be visiting the Instructor, Photography photography class in Washburn University Art Department 108 1700 College “The Kansas Gover- Topeka KS 66621 nor” video début. L-R : Office: 785-670-1632 Governor William Avery, Darkroom: 785-670-2553 Governor Kathleen email: Sebelius, Governor John [email protected] Anderson, Governor Mike Hayden. —read more Member News, p. 10 2 Observations on the Southern Periphery The Edge of Kansas: of the Sunflower State
o Man’s Land, Cherokee Strip, the starting wage at the Coffeyville Cherokee Outlet and Osage by Tom Schmiedeler, facility when it opened was around N Reserve are all historic names Geography $9 an hour, $4 less than in Seattle, associated with the state’s southern the Coffeyville wage was considered perimeter. They suggest raw edges to competitive in Montgomery County borderland settlement and disconti- attracted multinational corporations where unemployment rates have nuities in the evolving patterns of in the last decade. In April, 1999, been 1-2% higher than the state economic development. Such has Amazon.com opened a distribution average over the past several years. been the case with the noted excep- center in Coffeyville, a town best The average annual wage for 2004 for tion of the first two decades of the known for the notorious Dalton gang, Montgomery County was about twentieth century when mineral who in 1892 attempted, remarkably $8,000 less than the state average deposits brought wealth to south- and unsuccessfully, to rob the C.M. (Kansas Labor Market Information, eastern Kansas counties. Most of the Condon and Company Bank and the 2005). The starting wage today has border region belongs to the great First National Bank at the same time. barely risen from what it was five North American grasslands but con- Amazon employs about 250 workers years ago. siderable diversity exists within this but seasonal fourth-quarter hires Cessna Aircraft Company, histori- four hundred mile swath. Consider can raise the number to about 1,500 cally a Kansas corporate mainstay, is that it begins on the extreme margins (Attoun). From the beginning, com- another international firm estab- of what is identified as the Ozark pany officials in Coffeyville and at the lished in the past decade in Plateau, a relatively humid, forested international headquarters in Seattle Montgomery County near Indepen- outlier of the Southern Appalachi- have been reticent to discuss why the dence. Except for a three-year period ans, and ends on the semiarid High company moved to the city, but obvi- during the early Depression, Cessna Plains just a few miles from the ously the availability of a 750,000 had manufactured planes in Wichita Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe square-foot facility, formerly owned since 1927. Cessna, however, sus- Trail. Between lie the limestone by Western Publishing (Golden pended production of single-engine, escarpments of the Osage Cuesta, Books), was a significant factor. piston aircraft there in 1986 in large the Cross Timbers parkland of the part because liability lawsuits had Chautauqua Hills, the tall grass sent insurance rates soaring well prairie of the Flint Hills, the level “This isn’t strong beyond acceptable levels. In 1994 expanse of the Wellington Lowland, Congress passed the General Avia- and the butte and mesa topography union country.” tion Revitalization Act which of the Red Hills. —Mike Blake, restricted liability lawsuits and Isolated from the main economic allowed for the return of single- Cooperative Refineries, Cherryvale cores by its location and hampered engine production. Immediately after by poor interstate and intrastate President Clinton signed the bill into accessibility, the southern edge law, Cessna CEO, Russ Myer, remains for many Kansans as much Shortly after the opening, Mike announced plans for a new state-of- a terra incognita as it did when the Blake, a metal trades’ union official the-art, single-engine aircraft Sooners toed the line in 1889. Yet an at Cooperative Refineries in nearby manufacturing plant (Rodengen). economic awakening has occurred in Cherryvale, alluded to another rea- Although the company received bet- the last ten years with the emergence son why Amazon came to Coffeyville: ter offers from locations in other of several enterprises, ranging from cheap labor. As Blake noted: “This states, Myer had committed to build- ecotourism to book publishing, that isn’t strong union country.” Daniel ing the new plant in Kansas as have been generated largely by exter- Ries, a dot-com analyst with C.E./ compensation for the efforts of then nal forces who see the region’s Unterberg, Towbin in New York City Kansas Senators Bob Dole and isolation, stagnant economies and echoed Blake’s viewpoint: “Amazon Nancy Kassebaum and Representa- prairie ecology as resources rather hasn’t chosen to put its distribution tive Dan Glickman in securing than liabilities. Two southeastern plants in places like Coffeyville for passage of the act. Kansas towns, Coffeyville and Inde- nothing...Labor costs are a factor in Cessna officials pared the original pendence in Montgomery County, deciding where to put jobs” list of sixteen Kansas communities, are cases in point. Both towns have (Lawrence Journal World). Although each of which were competing for a
3 Observations on the Southern Periphery The Edge of Kansas: of the Sunflower State — cont.
new 500,000 square-foot facility, nesses closed. As a means of revital- Mara [Game Reserve] along the Great 1,000 new jobs and an annual pay- izing the town’s business district, Rift valley” in East Africa (Sunflower roll of $40 million, down to five. resident Jeane McCann suggested Journeys, program number 1213, Officials evaluated these communi- they capitalize on Kansas’ associa- 1999). Kurtis believes that people ties on the basis of airport and tion with The Wizard of Oz. McCann, have seen the oceans and the moun- transportation facilities, labor and tains; now is the time for utilities costs, educational resources, them to see the prairie. fringe benefits provided by area Therefore, his work in employers for their employees and Sedan has been part of a taxes. Independence ranked at or broader effort aimed at near the top in nearly all of the crite- developing tourism in the ria. A sales tax to help pay for plant region based on its prairie construction and a ten-year property ecology; a restored, turn- tax abatement were part of the enti- of-the century prairie tlements offered to Cessna, but, like town, Sedan, is part of those of Coffeyville, the lower labor that vision. costs were probably the most impor- along with gift store operator, Nita Using his television expertise, Kur- tant lure for locating in Jones and others, formed the Save tis produced a video to introduce his Independence. Employment opportu- Our Sedan Committee and encour- revitalization program to the commu- nities will expand greatly in early aged the City of Sedan to create their nity. Whereas his positive attitude 2006 when Cessna completes a own version of the Yellow Brick Road $20.4 million expansion involving by selling yellow bricks, each two new buildings. An additional 500 inscribed with the names of the buy- workers will be needed over the next ers and their hometowns, for $10 Kurtis believes that people several years to support production (later $15). The city has sold over have seen the oceans and of single-engine, piston aircraft and 10,000 bricks to people, including Cessna’s new entry-level business some celebrities, from every state and the mountains; now is the jet, the Citation Mustang. Current from twenty-eight foreign countries time for them to see the employment levels are about 600 (Dornaus). Funds have been utilized prairie. (Aviation News). to create the “Hollow,” a flower gar- den that was a junk yard for seventy-five years. Additionally, the he next two sites of dynamic city spent some of the money on and enthusiastic spirit convinced economic development are in restoration of a building housing the community leaders of his sincerity, Tthe Chautauqua Hills and Red Emmet Kelly Museum, which honors his capital investments in the town’s Hills, two comparatively obscure, the American circus performer, car- commercial district was undoubtedly trans-border physiographic regions toonist and actor born in Sedan. a greater catalyst for the organization that have recently gained a higher The most important improvements of the community, particularly Sedan level of recognition statewide because to the townscape, however, have merchants, behind his project. Kurtis of the economic investments of two been those associated with Bill Kur- began by purchasing six buildings in relatively well-known media person- tis, broadcast journalist and the heart of Sedan’s business district alities. The Chautauqua Hills, a television producer of several series and by opening a restaurant and finger-shaped area of surface sand- on the Arts and Entertainment Net- bakery in one of them. Through the stone projecting northward from work including The New Explorers, past few years he has purchased at Oklahoma’s Cross Timbers region, lie Investigative Reports and American least eight additional buildings and about thirty miles to the west of Inde- Justice. Kurtis, who grew up in Inde- established the Art of the Prairie pendence. Sedan, the Chautauqua pendence, has traveled extensively gallery and gift shop with an espresso county seat with a population of for the New Explorers. The Chau- bar (Jan Biles). Local people have about 1300, is the principal town in tauqua Hills reminds him of one of rented some of these refurbished the region. his favorite places—”an escarpment buildings to house their own busi- In the 1980s thirteen Sedan busi- that comes down into the Masai nesses.
4 Observations on the Southern Periphery The Edge of Kansas: of the Sunflower State — cont.
Kurtis has also purchased an miles northwest of Sedan. Perched isolated and sparsely populated 8000-acre tract where he raises on a hill slope overlooking a relatively region, but that situation could organic, grass-fed beef and bison. He large lake on the property is what potentially change. named his ranch Red Buffalo after Bell describes as a former “oil execu- In January, 2000, media mogul what the Osage tive party house.” After the crash of Ted Turner purchased the Z-Bar Indians called a the oil boom of the 1980s two avid Ranch, a tract of over 35,000 acres prairie fire, a quail hunters from Wichita bought located about fifteen miles southwest sometimes the house and property, but in time of Medicine Lodge, the Barber spectacular lost interest in hunting there. Bell, County seat and trading center for event that ecol- looking for supplemental income to the Red Hills. Turner assuaged initial ogists believe is offset declining farm revenue, fears of neighboring ranchers who instrumental in approached the property owners with believed that, with his vast financial rejuvenating an acceptable comprehensive busi- resources, he would quickly buy the health of ness plan that stipulated lease them out or make it difficult for them native prairie conditions, payment of operating and to compete for land purchases. In Bill Kurtis ecosystems. liability insurance expenses, and dis- fact, Turner has not tried to expand Perhaps it is a most appropriate tribution of profits. The house is a his initial purchase with extravagant name for a ranch that has become a definite advantage for Bell’s outdoor offers to ranchers holding adjacent major component of Kurtis’ program operations because the property on of revitalizing the area’s economy. which it sits can attract a variety of Today, the ranch offers lodging, game enthusiasts year round. Deer guided trail rides on horseback, hunters are referred to the preserve— wagon rides to Prairiehenge (a rock the Wildcat Creek Hideaway—by one sculpture by Lawrence earth artist of the owners and a business associ- Stan Herd), and nature walking trails ate. The first day after hunters arrive that include Butcher Falls on the Bell drives the perimeter with them Turner raises buffalo Middle Caney Creek. so they know the property bound- for profit on his ranch. The physiography and isolation of aries. He then identifies for them the Chautauqua Hills has also con- potential deer hunting sites in the tributed to another form of economic interior. Bell has also organized tracts. On the contrary, a few ranch- development—commercial game spring turkey hunting and summer ers themselves have approached hunting—that lures visitors to the fishing and boating. Bell uses classi- Turner with offers to sell their adja- region. As the regional oil, farm and fied adds to lure those interested in cent tracts. All have found him to be ranch economies declined in the fishing; horseback riding is a poten- a cautious and conservative busi- 1970s and 1980s, population pres- tial enticement to the ranch. nessman. Despite his great wealth, sure on rural recreation areas in the he has steadfastly refused to pay East increased. In time several locals much more than market value for recognized a potential economic link bout 120 miles west of the several of these tracts, which have between these seemingly disparate Chautauqua Hills are the Red brought his total holdings to about trends. They realized that although A Hills, a physiographic region of 42,000 acres of land, seven houses, the region’s abundant game found in butte and mesa topography named one mobile home, numerous out- a relatively secluded setting was for the reddish hue of Permian-aged buildings, equipment and assorted something they had taken for deposits of shale, siltstone, and cats and dogs. granted, for hunters from more sandstone colored by exposure of Turner raises buffalo for profit on densely populated regions of the iron oxide to oxygen. The Red Hills his ranch. Like those that graze on East, it was something comparable to are also called the Gypsum Hills his other vast holdings, the Z-Bar finding buried treasure on a pristine because gypsum is interbedded buffalo is sold to a New Rockford, South Pacific island. among the other rock layers. The North Dakota, slaughter house Among the locals is Sedan farmer, mining of gypsum, along with ranch- owned by the North American Bison Jim Bell, who conducts a hunting ing, have been the principal Cooperative, an organization of 200 operation on a leased ranch a few economic activities in this relatively bison ranchers. A local oil and gas
5 Observations on the Southern Periphery The Edge of Kansas: of the Sunflower State — cont.
well inspector remembers the ranch enhancing tourism since the state the Hugoton Gas Field, once the as a near-pristine, mid-grass prairie designated a forty mile length of U.S. world’s largest, greatly increased with waist-high grasses about thirty highway 160 west from Medicine agricultural productivity while engen- years ago, but since then it was Lodge to Coldwater as a “Scenic dering the rise of the feed-lot industry severely over grazed and needed time Byway.” A grant from the Federal Avi- in the region. The consolidated meat to recover. Fortunately, the process of ation Association will help fund a packing industry was soon to follow. building the herd from the four hun- new airport and recent town meet- One of the largest meat packers, dred heifer bison originally ings have focused on the possibility of National Beef, originally owned by the introduced to the present 2,000 head constructing a reservoir on nearby Jacobsen family, located in Liberal in has taken several years, a period of Elm Creek. One rancher has already the late 1960s in response to the time long enough for the native implemented spring weekend trail abundant grazing and milder winters grasses to recover. Meanwhile, safer rides complete with covered wagons, of the region. Because the company management practices have been meals cooked over an open fire and a sold beef to Idlewild Farms and to the introduced. night out on the trail. The rides are military, it was protected somewhat The reaction to Turner’s purchase attracting people from some distance. from market volatility and, when in the Medicine Lodge community profits were high, was able to expand was mixed initially because some its operations to include a feedlot for questioned whether the ranch would he most vibrant of all regional 70,000 head of cattle and a truck remain on the tax rolls. Generally, centers along the southern line, National Carriers. The company though, the city has welcomed him T edge of Kansas is Liberal, locat- is currently under the control of and, in the words of Medicine Lodge ed about ninty miles west of the Red Farmland Industries which rein- Mayor Steve Ethridge, residents are Hills and just a couple of miles from vested profits in expansion so that “glad to have him as a neighbor and the Oklahoma border. Liberal, seat of now the plant can slaughter 6,000 look forward to having a good long Seward County with a population of cattle daily. The company today relationship with him....” With numer- about 20,000, is located on the High employs about 3,000 workers, of ous vacant buildings in downtown Plains, a physiographic region whose which approximately 75% are His- Medicine Lodge, community leaders flat topography is appreciated far less panic, 8% Asian and the rest would like for Turner to do for Medi- than its subterranean resources. As Caucasian. Many of the Hispanic and cine Lodge what Bill Kurtis has done the regional trading center for much Asian workers came during the for Sedan. Turner has abided by his of southwest Kansas and the economic credo of purchasing essen- Oklahoma Panhandle, Lib- tials locally, and he has given eral grew rapidly during the Dangerous working conditions financial support to local children 1980s in response to the mat- through the Turner Youth Group uration of its regional have assured high turnover rates but, beyond that, he has not demon- economy based primarily on in the industry, so slaughter strated any interest in the economic the extraction of its most val- viability of the town. Nevertheless, ued resource—ground water houses like those of National Beef community leaders believe that the from the Ogallala Aquifer. are hiring all of the time. Z-bar ranch is having an indirect, Geohydrologists estimate that positive impact on the economy of the Ogallala Aquifer, which Medicine Lodge by promoting exists at varying depths and thick- 1980s when the town experienced an regional tourism. Such optimism is ness over parts of five states ranging 11% growth rate. Some are Mexican not without merit considering the fact from southwestern South Dakota to nationals whose documentation is that people are still fascinated by northern Texas, held at one time monitored by the INS. The plant pro- bison and have been taking the about two billion acre feet of water. motes from within into lower opportunity to view a relatively large Since the 1930s farmers have used management positions. Workers are herd of them from Aetna Road, a the water from the Ogallala to irrigate represented by a union but only gravel, public thoroughfare that runs a variety of crops including cotton, about half are members. Dangerous through the heart of the Z-Bar. More- sorghum, and corn. Developing irri- working conditions have assured over, several groups in Medicine gation technology, particularly center high turnover rates in the industry, Lodge have been discussing ways of pivot systems, along with fuel from so slaughter houses like those of
6 Observations on the Southern Periphery The Edge of Kansas: of the Sunflower State — cont.
National Beef are hiring all of the and land costs at $15,000 to $20,000 to formulate a plan for creating a time (Scholosser). an acre compared to about $800 an tourist attraction that would replicate Hispanics are also the principal acre in the Liberal area were the most various sets from the film. The crux workers at the Tuls Dairy Farm important incentives for Tuls to relo- of the plan was to blend the Wizard of about ten miles northwest of Liberal. cate and expand his operation in Oz theme with Seward County his- Tuls Dairy, owned and managed by Kansas. Tuls markets his milk pri- tory. Eventually, officials established marily in Hutchinson or Wichita, a Land of Oz site that is operated by about 200 miles from his farm, but the Seward County Historical Soci- Dairy farms...have come to he has also sold milk in Missouri and ety. The site includes Dorothy’s Nebraska, over 500 miles away. Tuls House, Uncle Henry’s barn housing the High Plains for can control most of the variables that antique farm machinery, Land of Oz many of the same reasons affect his operation. Some costs, like Exhibition Hall, the Coronado transportation, are subcontracted on Museum, and the Seward County as meat-packers. an annual basis. The one variable he Historical Society Museum. In addi- cannot control, however, is the price tion the City of Liberal manages a of milk. Tourism Information Center with Pete Tuls, is representative of a grow- auxiliary gift shop at the site. The Yel- ing number of dairy operations that low Brick Walk of Fame connects the have moved out of their traditional various components housed on the metropolitan milksheds into more site. remote and rural regions like the A local farmer donated a small High Plains. Tuls is a third genera- farmhouse, built in 1907, that tion dairy farmer whose family began became Dorothy’s house. The farm- dairying in the San Jacinto Valley 75 house was intended to link the miles southeast of Los Angeles. In the portrayal of Dorothy’s Kansas farm early 1990s several towns on the life with that of contemporary rural High Plains began to offer induce- Liberal, so Dorothy’s room in the ments to dairy farms to relocate. Tuls house was furnished with local arti- considered Guymon, Oklahoma and inall or the last manifestation of facts depicting those from 1939, the Dodge City, Kansas, each of which dynamic economic develop- year the film was released. The cor- offered a good package of incentives F ment we return to the Land of nerstone of the site, though, is the but no site. He eventually purchased Oz whose location this time is a block 5000-square feet Land of Oz Exhibi- his farm near Liberal in 1994. north of highway 54 near downtown tion Hall in which one can walk Dairy farms like that of Tuls have Liberal. For some Kansans the Wiz- through various characterizations of come to the High Plains for many of ard of Oz theme is like a tornado in the movie set designed from Oz mem- the same reasons as meat-packers. the Kansas spring; an uninvited visi- orabilia and models including those Feed costs, thanks to the Ogallala, tor that just keeps coming back. of Dorothy, the Scarecrow, Tin Wood- are cheaper. Tuls feeds his animals Perhaps one can forgive the Kansas man, Cowardly Lion and Glinda. An row corn and silage corn that, with Tourism Office for its efforts to pro- animated Wizard of Oz completes the the exception of about 20% of the mote Kansas as the “Land of Ahs.” set. Linda Windler, a Topeka native, silage corn, is purchased locally. And there just may be something to originally produced the models for Labor costs are generally low the idea that a pot of gold can be Halloween from recycled material. because National Beef had already found over the rainbow. At least a Visitors include many international generated a large Hispanic labor pool Liberal insurance salesman recog- tourists. before his dairy operation existed. nized the potential for it after The drier climate of southwest returning from a convention in Cali- Kansas is also conducive to less cat- fornia at which, upon hearing that he n summary the southern tle stress. Additionally, the Water was from Kansas, everyone kept ask- edge of Kansas has attracted eco- Quality Board in California did not ing him how Dorothy was and where I nomic development because of allow large dairies like that of Tuls in was his dog. After returning to Lib- cheap labor and local natural the San Jacinto Valley. This factor eral he met with city commissioners resources. Amazon.com and Cessna
7 Observations on the Southern Periphery The Edge of Kansas: of the Sunflower State — cont.
have benefitted from a local cheap tion and preservation has followed. Their status is secure for the time, labor market in a region that was Even the Land of Oz has found a but regardless of their future the important for mining and processing home in Kansas. communities on this part of the edge a century ago. Whereas an imported, The question that arises, however, of Kansas will find a way to survive cheap labor market contributed to is sustainability of such activities. just as they did after the last of the the profitability of mega-dairies and The Ogallala Aquifer controls indi- glass, tile, brick and cement plants meat-packing facilities in southwest rectly nearly all relevant costs of the closed down eighty years ago. As for Kansas, the natural resources of the mega-dairies and meat-packing facil- the Land of Ahs, it, too, will survive region in the form of the Ogallala ities. As the water table is lowered, it because as Dorothy has reminded us Aquifer, relatively inexpensive and will become increasingly expensive to far too many times, “There is no flat land, and very productive soils, maintain commodity production at place like home.” were more important catalysts for the current levels. The Chautauqua their establishment on the High Hills and Red Hills developments are Plains. The natural resources of the part of a contemporary No Man’s Chautauqua Hills and Red Hills in Land, but that is their attraction. the form of relatively pristine, scenic They seem poised to handle a modest prairie landscapes have led to the increase in tourism over the next few development of tourism in the form decades. The arrival of Cessna Air- of bison ranching, guided hunting, craft and Amazon.com in southeast and trail rides. Community restora- Kansas has provided 1,500 jobs. References Cited 1. Attoun, Marti. “From Cowtown to Amazon.com,” American Profile, September 11, 2005. 2. Lawrence Journal World, December 6, 2000. 3. Kansas Labor Market Information, September 16, 2005. 4. Rodengen, Jeffrey L. The Legend of Cessna, (Fort Lauderdale, Florida: Right Stuff Enterprises, Inc.), 1998: 233-234. 5. Aviation News, “Cessna Expands its Independence, Kansas, Facility,” December 21, 2004. 6. Dornaus, Margaret. “The Yellow Brick Road to Renewal,” American Profile, November 26, 2000. 7. Sunflower Journeys, “The Red Buffalo Ranch,” program number 1213, 1999. 8. Biles, Jan. Topeka Capital Journal, July 6, 2003. 9. Schlosser, Eric. “The Chain Never Stops,” Mother Jones, July/August, 2001.
Geography Field Trip The eighth annual Kansas Geography Field Trip was rangeland ecology relative to producing bison the nat- held on Saturday, October 8. This year's theme was ural way. He was quite proud to report that prairie organic agriculture and market gardening. The group chicken had returned to the prairie just this year. of about fifteen students, faculty and staff left campus Our next stop was at the vegetable farm of Bob and at 8:00 A.M. The first stop was the Tall Grass Bison Joy Lominska north of Lawrence. Bob and Joy, with Ranch at Auburn where Wayne Copp met the group the help of their son Avery, produce organic vegeta- at the gate to the pasture on which the bison were bles for the Lawrence Farmer's Market and for the grazing. We drove past the bison to a wallow, parked Rolling Prairie Farmers Alliance, which offers locally the vans and gathered between them as the bison grown produce through subscription. After present- approached. Wayne said that the bison associate the ing some information on their background, which vehicles with food, though he rarely feeds them from included service in the Peace Corps in Nicaragua, Bob his pickup. After circling the vehicles for awhile at took the group on a walking tour of the farm. He close range, the bison wandered off to greener pas- described the vegetables still growing and the eco- tures to resume their grazing. Wayne spoke about —cont., p. 9
8 Geography Field Trip —cont. nomics of producing vegetables in small markets, par- discussed construction of the pens and their rotation ticularly as production relates to the larger, corporate system and how labor intensive the work has become. food producers. He also discussed their efforts at con- The children have been a great asset to the operation. trolling native browsers such as deer and rabbits, who She mentioned that the Free State Brewery and indi- also enjoy their vegetables, as well as insect popula- viduals have been their most important consumers. tions. Participants enjoyed the beautiful setting of the Their birds are processed in Kansas's only commer- farm and were reluctant to move on, but shortly cial butcher for poultry, near Iola. Predators, too, were before noon the group drove down from the uplands mentioned as a problem in the operation. Upon on Winding Stair Road to Lawrence for lunch. request, Fred showed the group his shop where he After lunch, our last stop was the Clark poultry repairs and overhauls farm tractors, trucks and cars. farm south of Lawrence. The poultry operation is pri- As we were leaving the farm, the discussion turned to marily the work of Margaret Clark and her children, Thanksgiving dinner, of course. but Fred, her husband, helps out when necessary. The group arrived back at Washburn at approxi- The Clarks use a movable pasture pen system in mately 3:00 P.M. after a thoroughly enjoyable day. which to raise their turkeys and chickens. Margaret —reported by Tom Schmiedeler
CKS Meeting Summary, Fall 2005 Fellows of the Center for Kansas trip and for Carol Yoho's web services the documentary film “The Kansas Studies convened at 12:15 Friday, throughout the academic year. Governor,” outlined the overwhelm- September 9 for the first of two fall Rachel Goossen informed the ingly positive media response meetings. Those attending were Tom group that she and History Depart- attained by the film. The film has Averill, Bob Beatty, Rachel ment colleagues have applied for a aired on KTWU and other public tele- Goossen, Amy Fleury, Bradley Kansas State Historical Society grant vision stations, and an uninterrupted Seibert, Tom Schmiedeler, Bill to collect oral history from World War broadcast by a Topeka commercial Roach, Carol Yoho, Gabi Lunte, and II veterans in northeast Kansas. They station. Printed media outlets have Marydorsey Wanless. After a round- will focus on the experience of race in also enthusiastically responded to the-table discussion of current partnership with the Brown Founda- the film and the May 18 reception at activities, which included messages tion and the Brown vs. Board the Washburn Alumni Center, at from Virgil Dean, Roy Bird and Mar- National Historic Site. which four of the governors were cia Cebulska in absentia, Director of Marydorsey Wanless reported on present, was also a great success. the Center, Tom Schmiedeler, her documentary photography class Fellows approved the last funding opened the floor for a discussion of of this semester. This class will uti- request for this project—$400 for the the Center's general business. He lize a number of guest speakers purchase of DVDs, most of which will reported that the center's annual including several fellows of the Cen- be distributed to Kansas high schools. working budget will be the same as ter. Clark Balderson, Editor and Tom Averill mentioned that Jennie last year. In keeping with what has Photography Curator of Simple Chinn has a new textbook out on become standard practice over the Times, and Jim Richardson, Photog- Kansas history. He also discussed past few years, he suggested that the rapher for National Geographic briefly that he will be a consultant on Center fund visiting classroom schol- Magazine, are also scheduled as a project initiated by Charles ars with a $100 honoraria and that guest presenters. The class will have Cranston of the Department of Mass fellows of the Center authorize him to an exhibition of the entire semester Media. This project involves the approve such funding. He asked that project from December to March in development and production of a Fellows making such requests pro- Mabee Library. Marydorsey antici- dramatic narrative film about the vide the name, address and social pates written observations of the relationships among black, white and security number of the speaker so exhibit by Tom Averill and, hopefully, native children attending some of the that Tom can then complete the nec- by PrairyErth author William Least local mission schools in the 1850s. essary paper work. Heat-Moon. Film and prints will be Tom has organized another collo- Tom Schmiedeler asked fellows to donated to the Kansas State Histori- quium for the fall—this one on submit names and background infor- cal Society for their archives. Center maps—that has just begun discus- mation on possible Kansas Day fellows approved Marydorsey's re- sion sessions. speakers. In other general business, quest for $300 to pay for the cost of The meeting adjourned at approxi- fellows approved requests for funding film for the project. mately 1:45. Minutes written by Tom the annual fall Kansas geography field Bob Beatty, driving force behind Schmiedeler
9 WASHBURN UNIVERSITY 1700 SW COLLEGE AV TOPEKA, KANSAS 66621
Department: Geography
Center for Kansas Studies Speaking of Kansas
November 2005
www.washburn.edu/reference/cks/ on-line: us Visit
delve into the Inge papers. papers. Inge the into
research assistance. assistance. research interviews, conduct oral histories and histories oral conduct interviews,
at 218 Henderson (670-1611 or (670-1611 Henderson 218 at mar-
Virgil Dean has provided invaluable provided has Dean Virgil trips to Independence recently to do to recently Independence to trips
through Margaret in the So/AN office So/AN the in Margaret through
consultant on the project and Fellow and project the on consultant Topeka next spring. Marcia has made has Marcia spring. next Topeka
endars are $12 each and are available are and each $12 are endars
1856. Fellow Tom Averill is a story a is Averill Tom Fellow 1856. that professional production to production professional that
stone anthromorph figures. figures. anthromorph stone The cal- The
on historical people and events circa events and people historical on also are being made to try to bring to try to made being are also
such as Hopewell effigy figures and figures effigy Hopewell as such
Training School. The story is based is story The School. Training celebration in Independence. Efforts Independence. in celebration
so all of the artifacts include faces include artifacts the of all so
Shawnee Mission Indian Manual Indian Mission Shawnee Theatre Festival's 25th anniversary 25th Festival's Theatre
years calendar is “Faces of the Past” the of “Faces is calendar years
ment. The setting for the film is the is film the for setting The ment. on April 26 as part of the William Inge William the of part as 26 April on
sites in Kansas. The theme of this of theme The Kansas. in sites
Washburn's Mass Media Depart- Media Mass Washburn's William Inge. The play will premiere will play The Inge. William
graphs of artifacts excavated from excavated artifacts of graphs
directed by Charles Cranston of Cranston Charles by directed life and work of Kansas playwright Kansas of work and life
2006 calendars which feature photo- feature which calendars 2006
The film will be produced and produced be will film The cant progress on her script about the about script her on progress cant
Kansas. This group is selling lovely selling is group This Kansas.
tions in Territorial Kansas. Territorial in tions has made signifi- made has Cebulska Marcia race rela race
tion the Professional Archaeologists Professional the tion of
script for a 30- a for script the Center for Kansas Studies, Fellow Studies, Kansas for Center the minute film concerning film minute
is involved in a professional professional a in involved is organiza-
Marcia also has been asked to write a write to asked been has also Marcia Thanks to the generous support of support generous the to Thanks
Margaret Wood Margaret , one of our Fellows, our of one ,
“Faces of the Past” the of “Faces Playwrighting/Screenwriting
Fellows News Fellows [See also p. 1-2] p. also [See cont. ,