Top EmergingThe Retail Markets Pg. 14 PERMIRA’S VALENTINO DEAL/3 INSIDE: WWDSWIM WWD Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 5, 2007 • $2.00 WWDTHURSDAY List Sportswear Side Effect PARIS — Karl Lagerfeld delivered a welcome surprise on Tuesday with a terrifi c fall couture collection for Chanel that emphasized day clothes. The stylish looks had a bit of Eighties futurism, plenty of attitude and a motif he called High Profi le, which translated into details at the side. Here, a suit trimmed in studs, worn with boot leggings. For more, see pages 6 to 8.

Contemporary A-Go-Go: With Growth in Sector, Scoop Expands Abroad By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — Scoop is dipping its toes into the Aegean Sea in the first step of a planned international rollout. The specialty retailer unveiled a 300- square-foot beach shop in Mykonos, Greece, this week and co-founder Stefani Greenfield said she hopes to replicate the concept internationally in Saint-Tropez, Capri and St. Barth’s, among other locations. In a further expansion push, she also will begin wholesaling her Scoop Beach private label collection, and will open a full-line Scoop unit in London late next year. Greenfield’s overseas push comes as See Scoop, Page 9 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION Chanel, Christian Lacroix and Givenchy were among the houses present- ™ 6 ing their fall couture collections as the Paris season continued. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Scoop is dipping its toes into the Agean to prepare for an international 1 expansion, unveiling a 300-square-foot beach shop in Mykonos, Greece. KEEPING CORPORATE COOL Boucheron, the Paris jewelry house owned by PPR, plans to open 10 Workplace Cotton is a Woman’s Best Friend 3 freestanding stores in China over the next fi ve years. In summer, when the air outside is so thick Barneys New York replaced its 17-year-old store in Seattle with a larger respondents who says cotton is their favorite fiber or 3 unit that opened at a new location. it’s like an invisible heat cloak, many women find fabric to wear. it difficult, if not impossible, to look fresh and feel Brooks Brothers’ selection of cotton suiting has 10 What to Watch: FIFA plans to open thousands of stores and create comfortable. Mercifully for the nearly 70 million grown over the past few seasons, and will increase multiple lifestyle lines under the FIFA name; Puma enters bodywear. women in the U.S. workforce — half of whom for spring ’08 by about 30 percent, according to What to Watch: Jones Apparel Group seeks to breathe new life into its the Census Bureau says work Erica Wallis, women’s 12 L.E.I. junior denim brand with a new look for fall. full-time, year-round — merchandiser. This season’s WWD List: A look at the top emerging countries for global retail thoughtful designers are creating assortment, she says, provided 14 expansion. plenty of options to help women more fashion novelty cotton What to Watch: Contemporary designers expand their businesses with keep their corporate cool. suitings, including separate 15 new freestanding stores; teen spending looks good for back-to-school. “Women like to have options,” feminine sheath dresses with asserts Richard Ostell, vice- short, more fashion-driven president, creative director, Liz jackets. And while the store has EYE From Saint-Tropez to Provence to Île de Ré, these are the hot spots offered a cotton stretch Claiborne. The company has been 4 where the haute set is headed for their summer getaways. running a “Think Outside the fabrication for a few seasons, Suit” campaign that encourages this spring-summer marked the WWD Swim: A special report on cruise swimwear is included in this issue. women to adopt versatile looks introduction of stretch Obituaries...... 17 for the office and after work. seersucker, as well as a cotton Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 “Giving women a selection of tops stretch corded suit. and jackets that can coordinate “Early on in the season we were To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. with skirts, shorts, capris and almost sold through,” Wallis says. [email protected], using the individual’s name. trousers is a fresh departure from “During the warmer months, “I think cotton is the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT strictly matching suits.” women like to dress in lighter ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. summer fabric...” On average, women wear weight fabric options. A benefit to VOLUME 194, NO. 3. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one — Suzanne Roberts, additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three business clothes after work two selling our suits as separates [each additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Suzanne Roberts Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by nights a week, with 21 percent piece is sold individually or as Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive saying they go out five times a a set] is so our customer has the Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail week or more, according to Cotton Incorporated’s option of wearing the skirt or trouser to work with Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return ™ Lifestyle Monitor . Half the time, these women more seasonal tops. Even though the jacket may not undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA are going to dinner, or going shopping, according be the most appropriate for the outside weather, 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE to the Monitor. And 11 percent of the time they’re some offices still require formal dress.” INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new going out with friends, while 9 percent of the time About 92 percent of women do not work at home, subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production they’re attending a performance or movie. So not according to the Monitor; of these, 36 percent correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other only does an outfit need to look describe their dress code as Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list right for the office, it needs to “business-like with freedom.” available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. Favorite Fabric to Wear If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA multi-task as much as its wearer. Suzanne Roberts, owner of the 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, At Macy’s West, female shoppers eponymous clothing store in OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, Cotton 58% BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED respond well to mix-and-match Philadelphia, says that, unlike the MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR separates by names that include Denim 9% West Coast shopper, her client CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY ECI, Sunny Leigh, INC Cotton blend 7% prefers a more formal wardrobe. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. International Concepts private Silk 6% “I think it’s because my clients label, and Jones New York Linen 3% are hospital administrators, Signature, says Tifani Wilt, Polyester 2% physicians, attorneys; I have a women’s fashion director. Rayon 2% pretty aggressive workforce that “The region where the majority can’t do a mule to work. That’s In Brief Wool 1% of our stores are located doesn’t see interpreted as a little undressed and Lycra/spandex 1% ● GAULTIER RENEWS WITH AEFFE: Italy’s Aeffe SpA, which is much of a temperature variance, so sexy,” Roberts says. Instead, “I preparing to go public this summer, has inked a renewal con- we go with lightweight seasonal Nylon 0% think the cotton suit is fabulous. Don’t know 8% tract for the production and distribution of Jean Paul Gaultier fabrics,” she says. “After cotton We’ve had some really great ones ready-to-wear. The new pact runs through the spring-summer suitings, we go after separates like a Other 2% this season. I think cotton is the 2013 season. The deal replaces a previous licensing agree- cute little skirt or jacket. summer fabric and I’ve had huge ment that was set to expire with spring 2008. “The signed deal Interestingly, because we’re in such success with any cotton/linen testifies to the solid and enduring collaboration established a dress cycle right now, skirt sales have slowed but blend, cotton/silk blend. The designers all make between J.P. Gaultier and [Aeffe],” the Italian company said our shorts and ankle pants are stronger.” different presentations so the suits can do anything, in a statement. Out on the West Coast, Wilt says capris and, even black tie if you have a simple skirt.” ● 24 SEVEN AWARDED: Industry headhunter 24 Seven especially, the city short are a great summer option Roberts did well this season with a polished Inc.’s founding partners received the 2007 Ernst & Young for work. “Absolutely,” she enthuses. “I think cotton suit by Shin Choi, and separates by Yansi Entrepreneur of the Year award in the business services cat- they’re great with the fitted short jackets. And Fugel, whose pinstripe ensemble featured a jacket egory for the Metropolitan New York Area. Celeste Gudas, there’s so much happening with the little swing with feminine rouching on the pocket and a Sheilah Hogan and Stuart Kagel were recognized at an awards coat — it looks really great paired with a slim Hepburn pant. “The strong separates give a gala at the New York Marriott Marquis at the end of June. As ankle pant or short.” woman versatility—they can be worn with a white a Metro New York Area award winner, 24 Seven is eligible for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year 2007 national pro- Liz Claiborne, too, is finding success with cropped shirt for day, and then the jacket can be paired gram, which will be revealed at the annual awards gala in Palm bottoms. “Capris and cropped pants are a new with jeans in the evening.” Springs, Calif., in November. classic,” Ostell says. “Women who are looking for an Proving cotton suits and separates are a warm- option beyond shorts or pants on a hot summer day, weather match made in heaven. ● HAIR TODAY: Critics won’t be able to have a go at John are now relying on new lengths that can be polished This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Travolta’s leading lady role in the movie “Hairspray” until July and professional, and cool and comfortable.” ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ 20, but movie fans can size up the fl amingo-pink sequined dress The woman who can’t, or won’t, show her legs in tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these he wears in the fl ick. That is one of 11 costumes on display at the Ann Taylor Loft fl agship in New York’s Times Square anything but a business skirt needn’t suffer in pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it through the end of this month. Attire worn by Michelle Pfeiffer, summer’s cauldron, either. Designers and retailers relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Queen Latifah, Brittany Snow, Zac Efron and others is also up are creating an ever-widening assortment of eye- and behavior regarding clothing, in the retailer’s Broadway and 42nd Street windows. More than catchingly feminine cotton suits and separates; appearance, fashion, fiber selection and 2,000 cans of hair spray and other movie props will serve as which is perfect for the 58 percent of Monitor many other timely, relevant subjects. not-so-gentle reminders of the remake’s theme, fi rst made fa- mous by John Waters in 1988. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 3 WWD.COM

Inside the Permira Gets More VFG Barneys New York Seattle By Amanda Kaiser Antonio store. MILAN — European private equity group Favrin Permira Holdings is one step closer to owning 100 percent of Valentino Fashion E. PERRY DAVID PHOTOS BY Group SpA. Permira’s takeover vehicle, Red & Black Lux Srl, has struck a deal to buy 18.95 per- cent of VFG from Canova Partecipazioni SrL, a group of fi nancial investors that in- cludes VFG chairman Antonio Favrin. The Canova deal, pending antitrust ap- proval, would lift Permira’s total VFG stake to 60.2 percent. As reported, Permira has se- cured majority control of VFG through a se- ries of deals with members of the Marzotto family, the company’s former owners. The Canova deal raises questions about the future of Favrin and whether he will stay at VFG under new ownership. As re- ported, Favrin and Carlyle Group were Barneys Goes Bigger in Seattle attempting a rival takeover bid for VFG, but ultimately lost to Permira. Favrin’s re- arneys New York believes lationship with the Marzotto family, who Bdesigner labels will be a controlled VFG, was already strained be- stronger draw even in casual, fore he challenged them with his own bid, laid-back Seattle. sources say. Now it will be Permira’s call. The luxury retailer replaced “When Permira decides, we will know its 17-year-old store in Seattle [whether or not Favrin will stay on as with a larger unit that opened at chairman],” a VFG spokeswoman said a new location last Friday, one Monday. Favrin could not be reached for week after Jones New York an- comment and Permira declined to comment on its strategy for Valentino or its plans for nounced a deal to sell Barneys management, citing the ongoing takeover process. to Istithmar, a Dubai investment Permira is looking to buy out minority shareholders and delist VFG from the Milan Stock fi rm, for $825 million. Exchange. It is offering all VFG shareholders 35 euros a share ($47.41 at current exchange), Istithmar is expected to push The Barneys storefront. the same price Permira paid for the stakes owned by the Marzotto family and Canova. Barneys to grow fi rst in the U.S., The Red & Black tender offer could start as early as the last week of July and run and possibly launch the chain through the fi rst week of September. abroad, accelerating the domestic expansion started by Jones. Before the sale, Permira already has its hands on another 12.4 percent stake in VFG, thanks to a deal Barneys openings were announced for San Francisco this fall, Las Vegas in stipulated last month. One Marzotto family investment vehicle, Tidus, opted out of a early 2008 and Scottsdale, Ariz., in 2009. A store in Oyster Bay, N.Y., has been straight sale. Instead, it issued convertible bonds to Red & Black. The investment group announced, but the date is not set because litigation is stalling development of can convert those bonds into VFG shares, but not until December at the earliest, which The Mall at Oyster Bay. No sites overseas have been announced. would be long after Red & Black executes its tender offer for the remaining shares traded The new Seattle store has 16,000 square feet for selling on two levels, and on the Milan Stock Exchange. a third level for storage, for a total of 20,000 square feet. Barneys has a cor- Red & Black’s total price tag for VFG, should all shareholders adhere to its offer, would ner spot, at 600 Pine Street in the Pacifi c Place shopping center downtown, be about 2.6 billion euros ($3.52 billion). But the expenses won’t stop there. Red & Black with one street and two mall entrances. will also launch a cascading bid for all outstanding shares in Hugo Boss AG. VFG owns “The store is obviously smaller than our fl agships, but it looks like one in 50.9 percent of Hugo Boss, which is listed on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange. terms of design,” said Michael Celestino, executive vice president of Barneys New York. He cited the store’s marble fl oors, signature winding staircase and blue mannequins, murals and shoe salon that typify the fl agships in New York, Chicago, Beverly Hills, Dallas and Boston. Boucheron Inks Deal for China Units The Seattle unit is considered a regional store, rather than a fl agship, which is in the 60,000- to 80,000-square-foot range, except for the 220,000- PARIS — Boucheron, the watch stores. square-foot fl agship on Madison Avenue in Manhattan and the 120,000- Paris jewelry house that “We are absolutely square-foot fl agship in Beverly Hills. belongs to French retail delighted to partner “The great thing about our new store is that it’s in the hub of retailing. and luxury conglomer- with Peace Mark Group,” Tiffany’s is adjacent and Nordstrom is across the street,” Celestino said. “We ate PPR, has concluded said Jean-Christophe had a successful operation, but we needed to grow and right-size the business.” a deal to open 10 free- Bedos, Boucheron chief By relocating from City Centre, at 1420 Fifth Avenue, Barneys expects a standing stores in China executive offi cer. “They 30 percent increase in volume. Compared with the former site, there’s triple over the next fi ve years. are the ideal partner to the space for shoes and the Co-op, and double the space for accessories. The The venture, with elevate the brand’s suc- former store had about 11,000 square feet. Barneys would not disclose the Peace Mark Group, one cess to the next level in unit’s volume. of Hong Kong’s leading China.” “Seattle is a casual city,” Celestino said. “You don’t hear me speak- watch and jewelry fi rms, Boucheron operates ing about men’s tailored clothing so much. The store is more geared to a also will open at least 20 two stores in China, sportswear customer, but we do have women’s and men’s designer,” includ- Boucheron shop-in-shops in Hong Kong and in ing Lanvin, Vionnet, Prada, Helmut Lang and, in shoes, Manolo Blahnik and in the Tourneau network Shanghai. It runs 30 Christian Louboutin. There are also Philip Lim and Seven Jeans, among of stores over the same stores around the world, other labels, in the Co-op area. period. Peace Mark last and plans to open seven — David Moin year signed a venture Jean-Christophe to eight doors in the with Tourneau, based Bedos next year, Bedos said. in New York, to open 30 — Robert Murphy Dundas, Ungaro Said in Separation Talks New Look No Longer for Sale PARIS — Could the revolving door at Before that, he was at Christian Emanuel Ungaro spin once more? Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier. By Nina Jones said the initial price tag of $4 billion that Speculation is rife in Paris that Neither Dundas nor Mounir Moufarrige, Merrill Lynch, which was handling the Peter Dundas, a Norwegian designer Ungaro’s chief executive offi cer, could be LONDON — British retailer New Look has sale, had placed on the chain had overval- who joined the house as artistic direc- reached for comment Wednesday. been taken off the block after its owners, ued New Look. tor in December 2005, is parting ways Ungaro has had a rocky time on the private equity groups Apax Partners and “It’s too early to speculate when the cur- with the French fashion house. road to rejuvenation. Dundas was the Permira, failed to achieve the 1.8 billion rent shareholders may look to exit the busi- According to sources, Dundas and third designer at Ungaro since the re- pound, or $3.7 billion at current exchange, ness,” said the spokesman, who added that management do not see eye-to-eye on tirement of its founder, after Vincent price tag they had put on the fast-fashion current “macroeconomic” factors, such as the creative direction of the brand and Darré and Giambattista Valli. chain. the uncertainty of the U.S. credit market have been in separation talks. An an- The house also recently underwent a “The shareholders and management after the subprime lending crisis and ris- nouncement is said to be forthcoming. change in ownership in 2005, when high- had a view of what they thought was a fair ing interest rates, may have kept bids from A popular figure on Paris’ social tech entrepreneur Asim Abdullah bought price, and they were not desperate to sell reaching the company’s target. scene, Dundas sought to give a young the brand from the Ferragamo Group. for bids below that value,” said a spokes- The spokesman said the end of the auc- twist to the couture brand, founded Moufarrige, an industry veteran, man for New Look. tion process would not impact New Look’s in 1965 and famous for its draping, joined Ungaro last year and has al- Texas Pacifi c Group and Warburg Pincus business, and that the company would con- feminine prints and the color fuchsia. ready named a new designer to rev up had joined forces to bid for the business, tinue with its expansion into the Middle Dundas showed three collections for the its men’s business. Frank Boclet, for- and other parties believed to be interested East and India with franchise partner house, which received mixed reviews. merly a designer of Francesco Smalto, included The Blackstone Group and CVC Landmark Group and its trials of New Look Prior to joining Ungaro, Dundas showed his fi rst collection last week. Capital Partners. One industry source stores in France and Belgium. was head designer at Roberto Cavalli. — Miles Socha 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM

Summer in France: rosé wine, acres of blooming lavender, the Tour de France — and endless traffi c jams as the entire nation seemingly hits the road, especially come August. So where does the haute class head to get away from it all? Here, a look at a few French Leave favorite spots, and how the jet-setters avoid the crowds.

ILE DE RE PROVENCE

WHO GOES: French actors Fabrice Luchini, Vincent Lindon and Patrick Bruel, WHO GOES: Pierre and Sonia Rykiel. Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis are said to have been Bergé, Christian spotted around the isle. Lacroix, Ines de la WHERE TO GO: Two miles off the western coast of France, Ile de Ré, with stretches Fressange, Terry of silver-colored salt marshes that dot the island’s coast, shimmers in the midday de Gunzburg, sun. Vacationers have succumbed to the whitewashed fi shermen’s villages, fi ne Maxime de sand beaches and cognac vineyards. For seafaring socials, head to the Bant du la Falaise, Boucheron, a stretch of sand that vanishes at high tide, or Trou de Chemise beach Jean-Jacques in Les Portes to soak up the sun before going to Le Chasse Marée for dinner. In the Picart, Jacques village of La Couarde, Taxi Brousse, open only in the summer, is ideal for a lazy, Grange barefoot luncheon in the sand under graceful poplar trees. For dinner, La Salicorne WHERE TO serves fresh catches of the day in a quaint courtyard. After a sun-soaked day on the GO: Every beach, wine is sipped while pétanque is played at the church square in Loix before Frenchman dinner at La Cabane du Fier. In Ars, known for its bountiful market, Le Bistrot de worth his Ines de la Bernard is a must for lunch or dinner, and Le Chat Botté in chic knows Fressange crowded isn’t Saint Clément boasts one of the island’s best cuisines. Bô’s and Christian in. In Provence, trendy setting in Saint Martin is also a popular spot. After Lacroix that means lying dinner, islanders fi le into La Baleine Bleue in Saint low around a private Martin for tipples and tunes, only to regroup later at La pool with a book Pergola in La Couarde, where they kick up their heels and a chilled glass of until dawn. rosé. Friendly cocktail Provence is known for WHAT TO AVOID: There is only one main road parties kick in after its lakeside villages… running through the island’s center, so regulars fi ve in this region, avoid rush hour and zip around the island in where the social set …and charming fi shing boats. lives largely behind alleyways. — Emilie Marsh closed doors. But one can’t live in complete isolation. Cultural activities are plentiful. In July, the opera festival in the outdoor arena at Orange is a must, as is La Roque d’Anthèron piano festival, near Aix-en- Provence. At the delectable market in the town of Velleron, local farmers unpack fresh produce every evening after six. One of the best-kept secrets is the restaurant Le Ravi Provençau in Maussane. A family bistro with a long tradition in regional cuisine, it just might serve the most incredible rabbit à la Provençale in the world. WHAT TO AVOID: Don’t hang with the hoi polloi. Stay out of sight during the high-traffi c hours between 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. — you may fi nd yourself in the midst

of beautiful countryside, but you’ll be stuck in maddening gridlock. Town centers IMAGES; IMAGES; DE LA CAVALLI/GETTY ERIC RYAN/GETTY FRESSANGE BY ANGELO BY VENCE RESTAURANTS St. Rémy and Arles teem with tourists during these hours, too. Better limit

Johnny Depp your sojourns to early morning or late evening, especially for shopping. BENETT/GETTY DAVE DALE WILCOX/WIREIMAGE; WEINSTEIN BY TONY BARSON/WIREIMAGE; IMAGES ARMANI BY and Vanessa — Robert Murphy The harbor at Saint Martin. Paradis

Saint-Tropez’s jam-packed SAINT-TROPEZ/RAMATUELLE harbor… WHO GOES: Bernard Arnault, François Pinault, Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, Victoire de Castellane, Giorgio Giorgio Armani, Harvey Weinstein Bernard Armani Arnault WHERE TO GO: Moguls and fashion designers gravitate to the quiet hamlet of Ramatuelle to soak up the sun behind the high walls of their maximum-security compounds. Yet, it’s reassuring to know there’s plenty of action close by. Lunch at Club 55, a private beach club known for copious platters of crudités, is a requisite destination for movers and shakers. Photographer David Hamilton sits at the same corner table almost Harvey every day, and Hollywood types Weinstein talk shop over bottles of rosé. After an afternoon of loafi ng at the 55, Champagne-fueled partying is an option at the neighboring Voile Rouge, a self-styled cradle of hedonism. After all, the Voile claims it pioneered topless …and scenic rooftops. sunbathing on its beaches. For those who seek a calmer environment, the restaurant at the Villa Marie, a luxurious hotel perched on the hill above the Plages de Pampelonne, is a choice. But indefatigable revelers always end up at Saint-Tropez’s inimitable pleasure cavern, Les Caves Du Roy, where the disco dancing lasts until dawn. WHAT TO AVOID: Seasoned pros know driving into Saint-Tropez in the afternoon is a no-no. Too many tourists, too much traffi c, too many paparazzi. Veterans opt for the relative calm of Ramatuelle. — R.M. ILE DE RE PHOTO BY LES POLDERS/ALAMY; DEPP AND PARADIS BY FRANCK DANIELSON/ FRANCK BY DEPP AND PARADIS LES POLDERS/ALAMY; ILE DE RE PHOTO BY SAINT- PETER HORREE/ALAMY; BY BOATS STEPHANE FEUGERE; SAINT-TROPEZ LACROIX BY BY ARNAULT KOWALSKY/ALAMY; ART TROPEZ VILLAGE BY PRO AGENCE IMAGES/ALAMY; WIREIMAGE; PROVENCE LAKE BY SKREBNESKI PHOTOGRAPH

AUGUST 11-14, 2007 FEATURING THOUSANDS OF APPAREL AND ACCESSORY LINES FOUR DAYS ONE CONVENIENT SHOW FLOOR RUNNING CONCURRENTLY WITH AUGUST 12-14, 2007 merchandisemart.com/stylemax 800.677.6278

HRSP_WWD_FullPgAd.indd 1 4/30/07 4:40:05 PM 6 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel Chanel From Coco to Rococo While Karl Lagerfeld turned out meticulous looks that celebrated modern women’s power à la Coco Chanel, Christian Lacroix went for complete couture drama: feathers, furs and exaggerated chapeaux.

Chanel: Competition among couturiers — one of the as it poured rain). Another amusement of couture is and white. A mini hint? Of course. delightful amusements of the milieu. Perhaps prodded that it doesn’t really have to make sense, at least in an Whether or not Lagerfeld deliberately plotted by Valentino’s upcoming Roman festivities, those obvious way. Neither Lagerfeld’s chosen locale nor the a dramatic antidote to what was sure to be ample staying in Paris have certainly gone the extra kilometer bucolic Fragonard painting that inspired it seemed to retro romance elsewhere, that was the effect of his this season venue-wise: fi rst, John Galliano, who took have anything to do with his clothes — that is, at fi rst stunning collection. It featured a wealth of day clothes Dior to Versailles, and on Monday, Karl Lagerfeld, glance. But wait, that clever Karl. In printing an image — remember those? — infused with a racy attitude and who showed his Chanel collection at the beautiful of the painting for his invitation, he nixed the original a hint of Eighties futurism delivered in linear shapes Parc de Saint Cloud (ironically named, as it turns out, vivid colors in favor of a slightly toughened-up black exaggerated by crusader-like helmets and more of WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Christian Lacroix ▲

▲ Christian Lacroix Christian Lacroix PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY the boot leggings with which Lagerfeld seems to be dress with bows running down the sides; a dramatic turned-out goth girls. But there was more to it than the obsessed. The clothes were beautiful sans gentleness, crystal-embroidered column with feathered panels beauty look, since Lacroix worked from a surprisingly save for a few delicate evening gems. Rather, Lagerfeld that extended into a cape effect at back. Of course, brooding palette, starting with an extensive black- opted for the allure of power, strong clothes for strong, Lagerfeld is no slave to rules — not even his own. Thus, based Spanish passage that featured jacket looks and unquestionably modern women. near the end he offered another antidote, this time to dresses that managed a bit of sobriety despite generous As he so often does, Lagerfeld took a single motif his own bravado: a breathtaking pink whisper gown frills. There were also iridescent brown and deepest and coutured the daylights out of it. This season’s under a frothy feather wrap. Sort of a side show to his navy, while an evening turn in gray with black lace was angle: High Profi le. That’s profi le as in side view, sideshow, and it worked like a charm. nothing short of mesmerizing. where he focused nearly all of his decoration. By day Which is not to say Lacroix has sworn off serious that meant side panels or stripes running the full Christian Lacroix: Christian Lacroix is perhaps color. He opened the show with grand, elaborate coats, length of a look from shoulder to hem or even to ankle. fashion’s most genuine romantic. He fi nds no better each a unique jewel of cut and adornment — a gigantic These embellishments ranged from a basic tuxedo vehicle through which to express that innate aesthetic avian brocade; a mélange of rugged fabrics cut as if to stripe and precision rows of studs to the tightly packed than haute couture, and after 20 years fi nds boundless suit Marie Antoinette. At the end of the runway, each feather panels that decked a sturdy brown tweed coat. ways to do so. girl slipped her coat off to reveal the striking contrast He paid considerable attention to the suit, sculpting a For fall, Lacroix showed an exquisite collection of a vibrant-toned yet utterly simple dress. Similarly, as new jacket via little half-belts at the sides of the waist. with an air of lyric melancholia. He achieved this foils for his darker evening fare, he offered a wealth of He also offered a faux suit, in which what looked from mood in part through his models’ demonstrative painterly masterpieces, some high-waisted with girlish the front like a jacket dissolved into a dress in back. kohl-smeared eyes and frenetically disheveled, high- puffed sleeves, others, the epitome of sophisticated Lagerfeld brought his High Profi le routine into piled hair under oversized brimmed hats tilted just drama, as in the long draped dress in ombréd plum evening with similar variety — a banded cocktail so, looking as if they were at a casting for charmingly chiffon with violet fur sleeves. In a word, ravishing. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops BLONDE AMBITION: The latest campaign for Dom Perignon reunites two of Germany’s most famous fashion exports: photographer Karl Lagerfeld and model Claudia Schiffer. In it, Schiffer showcases an impressive chameleon quality, cast as a woman who — fueled by glasses of the 1993 vintage called Oenoteque — seduces her man by playing multiple roles: from sexy French maid and androgynous boy-toy to a soulful diva, complete with afro hairstyle. “She was genius to do what she had to do,” enthused Lagerfeld, who hosted a party Wednesday night to unveil the campaign, slated to break in September issues. “She played the parts perfectly. It was fun.” Claudia Schiffer in the Dom Perignon Lagerfeld even tapped his private campaign, shot by Karl Lagerfeld. secretary-bodyguard Sebastien Jondeau for one shot, in which he BAG DU JOUR: Catherine Deneuve, nuzzles the neck of Schiffer in full handbag designer? Don’t rule it out. Marie-Antoinette regalia. Daniel At Caviar Kaspia on Tuesday night, Gaujac, global brand director for Dom during a dinner celebrating Roger Perignon, said Lagerfeld’s campaigns Vivier’s couture shoe collection, Ines have helped land its bottles, which de la Fressange told the actress she are sold out in advance, into the best should consider creating a bag of her boutiques, restaurants and clubs. own — and Deneuve (who famously It’s also brought more “glamour and wore Vivier’s buckle shoes in the fi lm luxury” to Dom Perignon’s image. “Belle de Jour”) liked the idea. “I “Otherwise, it’s just a wine,” he said. have to think about the shape, but Lagerfeld plans to assemble the it will defi nitely be soft, with not too 40 images from the “Metamorphosis” many pockets,” the actress said. campaign into a book. This is “When there are too many pockets, Lagerfeld’s third campaign for the you can never fi nd anything.” Joining LVMH-owned drinks brand and he’s Deneuve over smoked salmon and already bubbling with ideas for the sturgeon eggs were Carole Bouquet and fourth. Gaujac also hinted Lagerfeld Claudio Costamagna, along with Diego would design a special product Della Valle, Bruno Frisoni and Herve around its rosé. van der Straeten. Sharp Ideas RM: After losing the rights to his name in a snag with his old investors, Roland Mouret staged a comeback with a high-end ready-to-wear offering under his new brand, RM by the designer Roland Mouret. The fresh and chic collection, bankrolled by British entertainment PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY mogul Simon Fuller, was a concentrated affair, boiled down to just over 20 looks, which Invoking a Goddess showed Mouret distilling his love of Givenchy: “Until now I have been working on construction of my message,” Riccardo Tisci sinuous silhouettes said before presenting his Givenchy couture collection on Tuesday. “Now we’ve got the (remember his hit identity, so this season I wanted to let myself go more.” He thus decided to have his haute Galaxy dress?) with way with one of fashion’s most enduring icons, the Greek goddess, which he did with some of fashion’s interesting if imperfect results. current fi xations For starters, Tisci looked beyond the obvious. As tailoring is unquestionably one of his — origami folds strengths, he opened, not with the fl uid lines typically associated with his motif, but with and volume. snug pale blush jackets over full feathered skirts and thigh-high, lace-front boots. Without Mouret made a “Bulfi nch’s Mythology” handy, it was tough to discern just which residents of Olympus he these statements was going for here, but one thing was clear — no one prissy. In fact, while the designer said his own, exhibiting that some of the collection, notably the archive-inspired leopard prints, bore bits of Fifties commendable femininity, lose the exaggerated jockey caps and they felt more Eighties power diva. restraint by Some of the clothes were beautiful — the jackets with intricately and inventively-cut tempering his artsy fl ourishes with with pannier pockets that zipped peplums, the monastic-looking tunics and the simple dresses. And Tisci brought youthful sharp tailoring. Starting in black seductively in back. While Mouret currency to an age-old couture standard when he paired frothy feathered frocks with basic and white, he offered a short linen punctuated the collection with cotton tanks. tuxedo dress with folds fl uttering decorative details and asymmetric That said, Tisci is not drawn naturally to simplicity, preferring to showcase his skills in at the hem, a cotton trapeze coat folds, he also offered sculptural excessively complicated constructions. He gave his goddess the works: He not only tailored with squared shoulders and an dresses that were spare and sexy. and feathered her, he corseted and trussed her, metallicized her, laced her, croc-ed her (with A-line linen coat with origami It was an admirable new beginning two distinct tails falling loosely down her back), and swirled her gowns every which way. pleats. Next, silk tweeds were used that proved those changes in Sometimes it was just too much. One wishes this man of considerable talent would take to for a blouson with a contrasting his business have failed to dull heart an old adage, the one that says know when to say enough is enough. satin collar or a curvaceous skirt Mouret’s sharp touch. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 9 WWD.COM Scoop Charters Overseas Expansion Continued from page one restaurant and upcoming Colin Cowie Sea the contemporary market in the U.S. continues to boom, yet is The Beauty Bar at Scoop Beach. Bar, she knew its owners shared her sen- becoming increasingly competitive among such specialty retail- sibility. Greenfi eld, who said she’s been ers as Scoop, Barneys Co-op, Intermix and Calypso (for more summering in Greece for years, said she’d on the market, see page 15). More and more contemporary de- been looking for an international location signers — from Marc Jacobs to Nanette Lepore — are opening to test her beach concept. their own stores, while Neiman Marcus’ Cusp is another entry At fi rst, Greenfi eld and her partner, that could further crowd things if the company decides to roll Uzi Ben-Avraham, discussed open- it out after its test period; there currently are three Cusps with ing a company-owned shop with the another set to open. Belvedere’s owners, brothers Tasos and Contemporary retailers, which used to have ample elbow Nikolas Ioannidis, but eventually decid- room, now fi nd themselves bumping into one another as they ed to simply supply and merchandise fl ock to the same top malls and shopping thoroughfares. Their the store, which is called the Belvedere assortments often overlap, although each store is merchandised Beach Shop Curated by Scoop. Next year differently, has a distinct point of view and all claim to be highly she plans to open a 1,000-square-foot productive, with sales per square foot of more than $1,000. Scoop Beach store in the Belvedere. Scoop operates four stores in Manhattan and units in “Our Scoop Beach formula for East Chicago, Las Vegas, Atlantic City, Dallas and Greenvale, N.Y. Hampton and the Shore Club Hotel in With five stores in Manhattan, Intermix has stores at the Miami works,” Greenfi eld said. “We’re Americana Manhasset in Manhasset and in Southampton, both opening a store in Malibu [Calif.] next on Long Island. In addition to its 11 Manhattan stores, Calypso year. It’s a great way to expand Scoop.” has opened units on Long Island in Sag Harbor, Greenport, The Ioannidises are developing a prop- Southampton, East Hampton, Westhampton and Montauk. The erty in “St. Moritz and have other projects retailer has also branched out to Boston, Chicago, California, all over the world. They’re working on a Florida and Texas. Calypso’s Christianne Celle has opened three few hotels. We’d open in other places.” stores in Paris and a unit in St. Barths. Scoop Beach is geared toward the For Greenfi eld, innovations like Scoop Beach and interna- casual, carefree lifestyle with caftans, tional expansion are ways to further differentiate herself from jelabas, pareos and sarongs. “St. Barth’s the pack. Scoop opened its fi rst beach shop in East Hampton designers epitomize the lifestyle,” in summer 2005 and beach or resort stores have since become Greenfi eld said. Offerings include halter popular. Part of their appeal is that retailers believe consumers dresses by Poupette, Donale Pour Scoop are more relaxed and therefore willing to spend money on vaca- embroidered shirts and harem pants and tion, and resort stores in hotels have a captive audience. J. Crew Lee Angel for Scoop bangle bracelets. in May 2004 tested the waters with a delivery business in East “I love the Mediterranean lifestyle,” Hampton. Sales were so strong that the following summer the Greenfield said. “Everything is done company opened its J. Crew At-the-Beach store on Main Street. late, you have late lunches and dinner Greenfi eld knew her beach shop concept had legs. When she saw starts at 11 p.m. I think of [Scoop Beach] the hip Belvedere Hotel in Mykonos, with its Matsuhisa Mykonos as head-to-toe beach dressing. I think of Talitha Getty, cotton gauzes with me- tallic trim, sundresses worn with gold chain belts and colored resin bangles.” With stark white walls, stainless steel fixtures and a gray concrete floor, the Mykonos shop resembles a smaller version of a Scoop store. A section of the shop is dubbed the Belvedere Beauty Bar and is decorated with mirrors and glass. Besides Scoop fragrances, it features London’s Cow Shed soaps, India Hicks’ Island Living I love the Mediterranean lifestyle. Everything is done“ late, you have late lunches and dinner starts at 11 p.m. I think of [Scoop Beach] as head-to-toe beach dressing. ” — Stefani Greenfi eld, Scoop

moisturizers and Jo Wood Organics scents. Terme di Salsomaggiore, a line from Italy, is based on thermal iodine waters and Anatomical from London features clever product names such as Giving Good Head Shower Gel and No Old Bags Allowed Eye Cream. Scoop Beach features Asked for a sales projection for the shop, Greenfi eld demurred. “The goal is to sell light, breezy tube out of everything,” she said. “It’s a short season, May to September.” dresses and tunics. Scoop has been expanding its product assortment with categories such as baby’s, men’s and home in particular stores. It assiduously courts exclusives and co-branded programs, such as the Oliver Peoples for Scoop sunglasses it sells in Mykonos. The retailer has also introduced new concepts such as Scoop It Up, an outlet store on Broadway in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood, blocks away from the 10,000-square- foot megastore at 473-475 Broadway it opened in February. Scoop has been gearing up to wholesale its branded products. The company ramped up distribution for its private label shoes, which were shipped to 150 stores worldwide this spring. Women’s private label apparel also received a push for spring. The collection includes stretch cotton minidresses, $198; silk tube dresses, $345; pat- ent leather clutches, $175; embroidered peasant dresses and blouses, $225 and $185, respectively, and quilted patent leather ballet fl ats, $165. Co-branded products in- clude Splendid for Scoop rompers $145, Donale for Scoop jumpsuits, $195, and Paige for Scoop Roxbury peg skinny jeans, $190. “We’re launching a new label, Scoop Beach, which we’re going to wholesale,” Greenfi eld said. “It’s for people to buy 12 months a year.” Scoop Beach will be sold on Net-a-porter.com and in department and specialty stores. “We’re represented by Findings Showroom in New York and Los Angeles, which sells our shoes,” she said. Greenfi eld said a beach store in a hotel has given her the opportunity to further rein- force the Scoop brand. “We designed our own fl ip-fl ops and beach bags for the store,” she said. “We also outfi tted the staff. Adam Lippes of adampluseve designed breakfast uniforms, which are ikat-print shirts and white pants. Scoop designed printed long tube dresses for the reception employees, Stacey Bendet from Alice + Olivia created a black ruffl e-front halter Private label beach top and navy pants, which are worn with Scoop ballet fl ats for evening, and Michelle Jonas bags and cobranded designed the chicest dresses for the hostesses, white minidresses with gold rings.” bangle bracelets. She added, “We were on the beach today and I saw three Scoop bags. A lot of local Greeks are shopping.” 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM Active Lifestyle FIFA Becomes a Brand Prince Brings Apparel ederation Internationale de Football Association, the African retailer with which the group plans to open more Fworld governing body of soccer, is out to turn itself than 100 shops-in-shops in the host country for the next In-house With Aerotech into a brand. men’s World Cup. The fi rst airport store will open in With the help of Global Brands Group, the organiza- January in the new international terminal in Singapore. rince Sports Inc., best known for its rackets and tion plans to open thousands of stores and create mul- The stores will carry FIFA products and Phard goods, is taking its activewear in-house for tiple lifestyle lines, all under the name of FIFA, or- merchandise from other soccer brands. spring to make apparel a corporate focus. ganizer of the Women’s World Cup 2007 in China “There are already great soccer “Prince is all about helping frequent players get and the 2010 FIFA World Cup in South Africa. performance brands — Adidas leads the most out of their game,” said Linda Glassel, the “We felt that FIFA really is the umbrella the market, but there’s also Nike company’s vice president of marketing and commu- brand for all of soccer,” said Gary Schoenfeld, and Umbro — and our stores will nications. “We’ve done that in other areas of tennis co-chief executive offi cer and president of carry any great soccer brands,” said — think about our 03 rackets — and now we are in- Global Brands Group. “It’s been around more Schoenfeld. “Our product will come troducing performance apparel with an advanced than 100 years as the organizing body for foot- from not performance, but rather fabric and construction system to help players look ball, as it’s known in most of the world, from lifestyle and heritage.” and perform their best on court.” kids’ soccer leagues to the ultimate men’s Schoenfeld plans a price range The fi rm is introducing Aerotech, which com- World Cup.” from comparable with to slightly bines three elements: “aerofi t” (a technical cut), FIFA increased its retail sales to more than higher than Adidas; T-shirts will “aeroshield” (to protect from UV rays and be anti- $2 billion in 2006 from $550 million in 1994, and wholesale for around $10 to $18, and bacterial) and “aerovent” (to provide temperature Global Brands Group thinks it can become a $5 bil- knits and woven tops for about $20 to $35. and moisture control). The three combined in a lion business over the course of their The company is developing seven FIFA ap- single garment create “aeroextreme.” eight-year partnership. parel sub-brands: In the past, Prince outsourced apparel to Sport In 2005, FIFA appointed Global ● FIFA event products, such as those Casual and it had been far less technical, accord- Brands Group to be its world- for South Africa 2010. “We’re looking for ing to Glassel. wide exclusive master li- ways to transfer the event to lifestyle “Prince has been involved in apparel for many, censee and store operator for products that are launching for spring many years, but we had used an outside supplier to FIFA-branded retail destina- ’08 and will build up to 2010,” Schoenfeld do the design and production of our apparel, and tions from 2007 to 2014, with the said. “South Africa has such great imagery, being the tennis brand we are, it just wasn’t work- option to renew for another eight plus socially there is so much interest in what ing,” Glassel said. “We weren’t getting the designs, years. With corporate headquarters is going on in South Africa, and we want to fabrics and forward thinking we wanted, and we in Singapore, Global Brands Group convey that.” knew it was time to go back in-house. As a com- FIFA’s tops is an international brand manage- ● A vintage collection, using his- pany, Prince is about performance technology, and inspired by ment, retail and licensing company. torical marks dating back to the fi rst our clothing should be as well.” World Cup soccer. “We describe ourselves fi rst and World Cup in 1930. The line is also offering three collections based foremost as brand managers, and ● Contemporary interpreta- on fi t: Gold (athletic fi t), Silver (relaxed fi t) and we are turning a chapter in terms of tions of the historical marks. “The Black (classic fi t). what licensing means,” Schoenfeld said. “We are merchandise can be inspired Aerotech wholesales from $15 to $30. providing a complete view of how to execute a by the teams that played, where With the launch of Aerotech, Prince is strength- brand, bringing it to retail, engaging directly with the World Cups were played ening its commitment to apparel, which is still a consumers and recognizing that FIFA can be an and what was happening in small part of its business. In the next fi ve years the incredible lifestyle brand.” the host country at that time,” company wants to grow U.S. apparel sales to $10 Schoenfeld went to FIFA with plans to dra- Schoenfeld said. “For example, million. Globally, Prince does about $20 million matically grow its merchandising and licensing England hosted and won the wholesale in apparel, including distributor sales. businesses with two key strategies: retail and 1966 World Cup — look at fash- As a company, not including distributor sales, merchandise. ion and music in England in the Prince expects to “It is a global opportunity because it is truly a global Sixties — but the logos for that surpass $100 mil- sport,” Schoenfeld said. “We want to support the FIFA World Cup haven’t been available lion in wholesale brand and promote the sport, and we have exclusive access since 1966.” revenues in 2007. to all of the historical FIFA trademarks, including all of the ● A Champions range of who won past World Cups. “It is a strong previous World Cups, which gives us the opportunity to cre- “Brazil has won fi ve World Cups, and there are fi ve differ- growth objective to ate a very compelling and unique retail destination.” ent stories that can be told as they won at fi ve different build the apparel Over the next several years, Schoenfeld plans to open points in time and in fi ve different places,” Schoenfeld business, as well 2,000 to 3,000 stores globally with local partners. More said. as footwear,” said than half are slated to be shops-in-shops, although he ● FIFA Code, named after the gaming world, specifi - Glassel. “Prince has would like to have hundreds of freestanding stores as cally FIFA Street. “We are creating an apparel collection a double-digit share well (at 1,500 to 3,000 square feet), around 100 stores utilized within the FIFA Street game that will come out in specialty stores in airports (starting at 1,000 square feet) and fi ve to 10 in spring 2008 with a new edition,” Schoenfeld said. “It’s in the U.S. for rack- fl agships (at 4,000 to 8,000 square feet), in South Africa, much more urban lifestyle-infl uenced.” ets, but we only Dubai, London, Mexico City, Tokyo and Shanghai. ● A generic FIFA graphics package, not specifi c to any have single digits in apparel, so the Looks from “I’m very much a proponent of brands controlling their event or historical marks, that will be primarily T-shirts. Aerotech. retail experience,” said Schoenfeld, who was president ● Other FIFA events product beyond the FIFA World growth opportuni- and ceo of Vans before its 2004 acquisition by VF Corp. Cup, including September’s Women’s World Cup in ties are signifi cant, “When VF bought us, we had 150 of our own stores.” China, which will sell at the events, through e-commerce if we have the right silhouettes and fabrics.” The fi rst FIFA shop-in-shop is scheduled to open and in FIFA stores, when they open. In the U.S., more than 1,500 doors carry Prince before the end of the year, in conjunction with a South — Whitney Beckett hard goods, and Glassel hopes that 50 to 70 percent of them — those that carry apparel — will buy the line, which will fi rst ship for January delivery. “Our dealers want Prince in their shops, the brand is so strong at retail,” Glassel said. “This line targets a frequent player, and we are in all of the Puma Launches Bodywear places that target frequent players. At same time, we will be also be opening up new doors, because PUMA IS ENTERING THE BODY- male-looking product.” we haven’t had product at this level before.” wear market. The fi tted women’s and Prince is offi cially introducing the line at a The German sports lifestyle men’s bodywear, which in- party July 13 at Lotus Space in New York. brand will launch its Complete cludes shirts, tanks, shorts — W.B. Bodywear Collection this fall, put- and sports bras, is offered in ting its own stamp on a category three categories: From Puma’s Complete made hot by Under Armour. ● The Advanced collec- Bodywear Collection. Prince sees “The performance bodywear tion, which provides the growth potential category has grown signifi cantly highest level of compression ● The Authentic collection of- in apparel. in the last fi ve years, creating a and wicking technology, is targeted fers “wicking at an accessible price great opportunity to infuse the to Puma’s athletes, including the point,” for $10 to $14. Puma DNA of sport lifestyle and teams it dresses for events like the The fi rst delivery goes out this fashion into this performance World Cup. Wholesaling from $15 to month to about 150 doors, includ- product,” said Tom Morgan, senior $25, the top line will be distributed ing sporting goods, sports specialty, vice president of sales and market- to a small number of stores, includ- department and Puma stores, ac- ing for Puma North America. “As a ing Eurosport, Sports Authority cording to Morgan. brand, we are always trying to in- and Puma stores, and is expected He predicted Bodywear could fl uence the worlds of lifestyle and to generate minimal volume. make up at least 5 percent of sport, and show that more tech- ● The Active collection whole- Puma’s U.S. apparel business. The nical fabrics can also be worn as sales from $12 to $18 and delivers company doesn’t break out U.S. part of fashion and lifestyle. From performance-level compression sales, but globally, Puma’s apparel a fi t and design standpoint, ours is and wicking, well-suited for a non- brings in about $1 billion annually. not the traditional high-end, very competitive athlete. — W.B. .COM

EVE3599_WWD_July5thIssue.indd 1 6/29/07 3:47:23 PM 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM Denim Report L.E.I. Gets New Look for Back-to-School

By Ross Tucker NEW YORK — Jones Apparel Group wants to breathe new life into its L.E.I. junior denim brand with a fresh look for fall. For the back-to-school season, Jones will unveil an overhauled L.E.I. with new packaging, labeling, adver- tising and a strategy for increasing the brand’s Internet presence. Jones is hoping to better connect with L.E.I.’s 13- to 17-year-old target audience and stand out in an increasingly crowded market. “Stores have a lot of respect for L.E.I. Brand aware- ness and consumer loyalty have been very, very good,” said Jack Gross, chief executive offi cer of Jones’ denim and juniors businesses. “The only thing constant in ju- niors is change. By giving the brand a face-lift and mod- ernizing it and bringing it into this time period, it brings excitement at retail,” Gross said. Jones acquired L.E.I., which stands for life, en- ergy and intelligence, in 2002 in a deal worth $385 million. L.E.I. had established itself as a dominant juniors brand and was generat- ing sales of $248 million. The brand’s pri- mary competition was the Mudd and Paris Blues brands. Jones allowed the brand to operate as an independent division with A screenshot of L.E.I.’s redesigned Web site. its own staff and sales force, a decision that Gross and Peter Boneparth, Jones’ A look from the ceo, acknowledge was a mistake. the images to the MySpace page. Prizes include a three- fall campaign. “The infrastructure was built around day internship at Seventeen magazine, a scholarship the two primary owners....There was no and L.E.I. apparel. succession plan in place to perpetuate the Packaging and marketing materials are meant to con- success,” Gross said. vey a mix of playfulness and intelligence — and even Sales began to slide because of operational in- patriotism. The brand icon features caricatures of girls effi ciencies that were complicated by increased compe- with star shapes on their faces and American fl ag-like tition. The task of turning around the brand fell to Gross tongues sticking out. when he took his current position in January 2006. Since “We want to portray a brand that is not a me-too then, L.E.I. has been more formally brought into Jones’ type brand but more of a leader,” Gross said. “It’s more operations and there have been several management fun, more inspirational and more aspirational and re- changes, including a new president. ally tongue-in-cheek. That really is what the consumer “Turning a company around like this doesn’t hap- is today.” pen in a day,” Gross said, adding that only two or three L.E.I. also will make changes to its product assort- people who were with L.E.I. when he came in were still ment. In the past, Gross said that 65 percent of L.E.I.’s with the brand. product range had been fashion items and only 35 per- L.E.I. has relied on research and focus group stud- cent had been basics. For fall, that ratio will be reversed ies conducted directly with its teen audience to create to emphasize a core basics business. It’s a strategy that an image and marketing campaign that Jones believes Gross said had worked across the company. accurately refl ects the character of today’s teens. Gross “Where we’ve been successful is having a platform of said teen consumers weren’t interested in achieving basics, which are the engine of our company,” he said. a sexier or necessarily more adult look. Instead, they “We surround the engine with great fashion.” wanted something smart and witty. The brand will reenter the footwear market with shoes Jones also realized that teen consumers were spend- retailing for $39 to $59. The footwear assortment will in- ing a lot of time on the Internet. They are fl ooded with in- clude canvas sneakers, fl ats, dress shoes and boots. formation and news and, as a result, said Gross, “they’re The juniors market continues to be a diffi cult category more grounded than I think people give them credit for.” at retail, making the success of L.E.I.’s rebranding all the Jones’ research found that 87 percent of teens were more critical. Gross said that with the turmoil around the online — and that 77 percent of them spent more than brand, some retailers lost confi dence and backed off. The two hours a day online. Jones hopes to capitalize on this early response to the new brand image, however, has been with a redesigned Web site that incorporates the new “outstanding,” he said. A turnaround won’t happen over- branding and includes more interactive features such night, but Gross believes last year’s slow back-to-school as a fi t guide and downloadable icons and wallpaper. season may translate into pent-up demand this year. A MySpace page will be introduced for a “How Do You “I believe that it’s going to be a compelling story to Wag Your Flag?” contest. Teens enter the contest by de- the consumer to see what’s happening and respond,” signing their own jeans, T-shirts and fl ags and uploading Gross said. The Recipe for Building a Good Society AIDEN DINH WANTS TO DO THE RIGHT THING. “It is a simple jean [customers] can wear now and His environmentally friendly jeans line, Good 10 years from now,” Dinh said. Society Denim, is launching in the fall with lofty goals. Stores that have ordered Good Society include Everything from its hangtags to dyes are eco-friendly Urban Outfi tters, Fred Segal Flair in Santa Monica, and made based on fair labor practices. Dinh allocates Calif., Post in Los Angeles and Olio United in 10 percent of profi ts for charities: helping orphans in Portland, Ore. India, former child sex slaves in Cambodia and provid- This fall, Dinh will introduce a T-shirt line dubbed ing clean water facilities for underprivileged commu- Deconstruction Reconstruction, as well as a drinking nities around the world. water line called Pathos. The T-shirts, which whole- Good Society is Dihn’s second venture in the fashion sale for $75, are reconstructed from Ts collected from business. His fi rst denim line, Sling & Stones, launched Salvation Army stores in the Midwest that Dinh and last year. Dinh donated 10 percent of profi ts from 4,000 his team take apart and resew in more fi tted styles. pairs of Sling & Stones jeans to stop the use of pesti- Pathos water features natural artesian water in bio- cides, but he wanted to do more and reasoned he could degradable soy plastic bottles. Dinh said all profi ts give more money to charity with a lower-priced line from Deconstruction Reconstruction and Pathos will Good Society Denim blends that could generate higher volumes. Good Society was go to charity. philanthropy with fashion in the result. The line retails for about 40 percent less Projecting fi rst-year wholesale sales of $500,000 its debut fall collection. than the $300 price tag for Sling & Stones. to $1 million for Good Society, Dinh said his strategy Good Society will ship three styles to stores this is to wholesale to a mix of socially conscious bou- fall. Made of 100 percent organic cotton from India, tiques, while expanding into 10 of Urban Outfi tter’s to start within a community of people who care about the jeans come in a low-rise of 7.5 inches in both slim biggest stores. what they are selling and promoting in their stores,” and boot cut, as well as a mid-rise of 8.75 inches in a “The reason we do have a mix of specialty bou- Dinh said. straight leg. tiques is because I think that cultural movements tend — Brindey Weber WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 13 WWD.COM

competitive game.” out there. High Times has youngsters who promptly took a Bloom’s current project, nourished a close relationship 2-0 lead in the top of the fi rst.” CelebStoner.com, doubles as with VNU, which owns Billboard (The Paris Review, possibly still MEMO PAD a tally for the media league and Mediaweek, and the two play feeling the loss of legendary games, leading BusinessWeek an annual 9/11 commemorative editor and player George BATTER UP!: Members of the scenario — will pit respective coach and senior writer Tom game on Randall’s Island, Plimpton, eventually lost.) so-called New York media editors in chief and former WSJ Lowry to point out, “I’m sure all complete with bulb planting, and Certain cultural divisions elite have been accused of colleagues Joanne Lipman and the suits upstairs at McGraw- a High Times delegation camped will never be bridged. Years many things, but excessive Stephen Adler against each other Hill are wondering what all out at the VNU company retreat ago, High Times and National athletic fervor — or skill — is on the diamond. Sadly, High the BusinessWeek guys are on Long Island last weekend. Review, which occasionally rarely one of them. However, Times, which is among the most doing at CelebStoner.com.” Meanwhile, a vital act of found common ground in the anyone willing to leave the ardent softball teams in all of Had they decided to check it cross-cultural understanding libertarian belief in legalizing cubicle for the ballpark can media, can claim no such direct out, the aforementioned suits took place at the DC Comics- marijuana, nonetheless disagreed pick up enough celebrity competition to trump in a game. would have found the retouched Paris Review game, at least told about the war paint and drums cameo anecdotes for a season “I’m not sure who our rivals BusinessWeek logo created by a DC Comics correspondent the Bonghitters favored at the of cocktail parties. There was would be,” mused Bloom, who by upcoming softball rivals on its Web site. time. One day, National Review the year Chuck D manned fi rst is no longer directly affi liated CollegeHumor.com. It read, “While [DC Comics] produced a boom box that base for the Air America team, with the magazine. “Well, I “BusinessWeak,” and with expected a team of 40-year-old, blasted classical music. “It was the time Tom Hanks came out guess there are some Canadian slightly less nimble wordplay, Champagne-sipping, French- like, screw your drums — we’re to cheer for his daughter, a marijuana magazines. Let’s BusinessWeek rebutted with speaking snobs to show up, PR coming out with Vivaldi,” said Vanity Fair intern, and this year, say we were playing Cannabis “College Tumor.” surprised the Bullets by instead Bloom. “And they won that day.” The Strokes frontman Julian Culture. That would be a But it’s not all one-upmanship bringing a team of athletic — Irin Carmon Casablancas has played a few games for the Rolling Stone team. For true media junkies, there’s the, well, inside baseball; for example, upon assuming the editorship of The Paris Review, New Yorker writer Philip Gourevitch pitched for both teams in a Review-New Yorker match. And, as befi ts media teams, games have been assiduously chronicled everywhere from Gawker to The New Yorker’s Talk of the Town to company Web sites. GQ even devoted a page of its August issue to “The 10 Rules of Company Softball,” acknowledging two of its own: “sneak out of work as early as possible, and, for the love of God, beat The New Yorker.” Now comes a development that promises to formalize what typically has been a rather haphazard process dependent on New York City Parks permits and proactive volunteer coaches: the formation of the New York Media Softball League. This year, charter league members BusinessWeek, DC Comics, High Times, Trader Monthly, The Wall Street Journal and WNYC radio have instituted regulations that include the use of an umpire and a mandate of one woman for every fi ve men. “It was a constant sore point between us and other teams that did not bring women out on a regular basis,” said former High Times editor and coach, and current “commissioner” of the media league, Steve Bloom. (Sometimes the problem is reversed; Trader Monthly editor in chief and president Randall Lane recalls playing for the Cosmopolitan team when they lacked for men.) Bloom said Vanity Fair and The New Yorker were invited to join the league, but declined. “No knock on those guys, but they don’t want to play on the same level, apparently,” he said. The league also ensures the media-oriented makeup of the teams. Said Lane, who has been batting around the idea of a media league since he was captain of the Forbes team, “There’s no great thrill to getting bragging rights over an accounting fi rm.” So far, BusinessWeek has bragging rights over everyone, inside and out of the league, with 11 wins this season and a 27-game winning streak from last year. Its last game of the year is against Condé Nast Portfolio, which — in a baseball-mirrors-life 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM If retailers are interested in global expansion, where in the world should they begin looking for their next prime location? Management consulting fi rm A.T. TheWWDList Kearney has released its annual global retail development study, which ranks countries by risk (economic performance, debt indicators, political risk); market attractiveness (business effi ciency, retail sales per capita, urban population); market saturation (size, number and performance of retailers already within the region), and time pressure (whether the retail sector is developing rapidly, and if the expansion opportunity is right). A score of 100 means the country is primed for retail expansion. “This study is a strategic predictor of where retailers should A World of Retail be going,” said Mike Moriarty, a partner with A.T. Kearney. “The higher the The top emerging countries for global retail expansion. score, the better the timing is for retailers to enter the country.” — Cecily Hall

INDIA Global Retail Development Index Score: 92 “This is an exciting time for India,” said Mike Moriarty of A.T. Kearney. “Relaxed retail laws are in place now, which allow single-brand retailers to own a 51 percent majority stake in a joint venture with a local partner.” This is key for luxury goods and fashion brands, which are rushing into 1 the market. Hermès is a classic example: The French luxury company said in June it had established a joint company to open stores in India, with a fi rst unit expected in New Delhi. DLF City Centre, in nearby Gurgaon (left), has stores such as Lacoste, Tommy Hilfi ger and Marks & Spencer.

RUSSIA Score: 89 “Multilevel fashion malls and mixed-use centers are expected to be successful here,” the A.T. Kearney study noted. An ideal example is Moscow’s Slava center, expected to be completed by 2010. Luxury and fashion companies are fl ocking to Russia to capitalize on its growing wealth. Ralph 2 Lauren opened two Moscow locations in May, including a fl agship near Red Square; British department store Debenhams opened its fl agship here in the fall, and jeweler Kieselstein-Cord is set to open in the fall. Last year, Alberta Ferretti opened its second Russian fl agship, in Kaliningrad.

CHINA Score: 86 Robust economic expansion in China and India is contributing to a strong global economy, WWD reported last week. Said Moriarty, “The middle class is going to grow over the next 10 years to over half a billion people. The Chinese have a terrifi c fashion sense, and apparel manufacturers and retailers 3 should gain real insight into what these consumers want.” Stuart Weitzman has revealed plans to expand into Beijing; Calvin Klein opened its fi rst freestanding Collection store in Beijing, and in June, WWD reported that Coach plans to open at least 20 more stores in the region in the next three years.

VIETNAM Score: 74 “Vietnam is much bigger than most people think,” said Moriarty. “The region boasts 84 million people, per capita incomes are growing rapidly...if retailers study the cultural aspects and really learn this marketplace, Vietnam will be a real winner for many.” WWD reported in April, “Vietnam 4 is quickly becoming one of the new hot spots for retailers,” noting that Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna and Lacoste have all either lain down roots here or have plans to do so in the near future.

UKRAINE * Score: 69 A.T. Kearney’s study pointed out that although a majority of the Ukranian retail market is still composed of family-owned shops, residents are beginning to prefer malls and supermarkets as their ideal shopping destinations. One of Kiev’s most popular shopping and entertainment centers 5 is Globus mall, which features shops like Swatch, Timberland, Adidas and Esprit. International retailers, such as Metro, Rewe and SPAR have entered the market, according to the study. A massive shopping center construction project in Lviv is under way and expects to open in 2008.

CHILE * Score: 69 Chile’s gross domestic product growth was steady at 4 percent for 2006, while retail sales rose 5 percent. But competition remains tough: Because Chilean-based supermarkets and hypermarkets are considered the most successful formats, other international retailers have exited the region. 6 However, “for global retailers willing to play hard,” noted the study, “Chile remains an attractive but challenging investment opportunity.” In Santiago, Parque Arauco is one of the area’s best-known malls. A few shops housed here include Ferragamo, Versace, Polo, Valentino and Zara.

LATVIA † Score: 68 Thanks to impressive GDP growth of 12 percent in 2006, Latvia is expected to remain steady within the ranking during the next few years. “Riga is getting hipper by the minute,” WWD Fast reported in 2005. “Cafes, designer hotels and boutiques of all sorts are racing to claim space on Riga’s cobbled 7 streets, lined with a mix of medieval architecture, wooded buildings and the highest percentage of Art Nouveau buildings in the world.” Designer brands such as Armani, Gianfranco Ferré and MaxMara are all located here, along with fast-fashion shops including Zara, Mango and Benetton. BY HOANG DINH NAM/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; UKRAINE BY AP PHOTO/EFREM LUKATSKY; CHILE BY PETER ESSICK/AURORA/GETTY IMAGES; CHILE BY AP PHOTO/EFREM LUKATSKY; HOANG DINH NAM/AFP/GETTY BY BY IMAGES; UKRAINE ARABIA BY REZA/GETTY IMAGES; TUNISIA BY FETHI BELAID/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; BULGARIA BY AP PHOTO/DIMITAR DEINOV REZA/GETTY FETHI BELAID/AFP/GETTY BY IMAGES; TUNISIA BY AP PHOTO/DIMITAR ARABIA IMAGES; BULGARIA BY MALAYSIA † Score: 68 This Asian country continues to enjoy strong GDP growth (6 percent in 2006). Said Moriarty, “Because it is so near to Singapore, there is a terrifi c availability of talent, great training programs — the quicker retailers can hire local nationals to run these operations, the more quickly they’ll turn 8 a profi t.” Shoppers enjoy plenty of destinations in the region, including the Kuala Lumpur City Centre (left). The six-level, 1.5 million-square-foot mall, titled “Suria KLCC,” is one of the largest in the world and houses many designer labels, including Chanel, Gucci, Hermès and Prada.

MEXICO § Score: 64 In March, WWD reported that Gucci opened a two-story, 4,844-square-foot fl agship on Presidente Mazaryk Street in Mexico City, “joining luxury retailers such as Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Chanel, Tiffany & Co. and Cartier in the tony neighborhood of Polanco.” Another popular 9 destination is The Central Plaza (left), part of the Ciudad de los Niños (City of Children), a theme park designed to teach a work ethic and brand loyalty at a young age. The Ciudad de los Niños is located inside Mexico City’s Santa Fe shopping mall, which boasts 285 stores. § SAUDI ARABIA Score: 64 Saudi Arabia advanced seven places to number 10. With an economy driven primarily by high oil prices and exports, the country’s $347 billion economy saw its GDP grow by 6 percent in 2006. “Tourism and a tax free status make Saudi Arabia a very attractive market,” noted the study. Paris- 10 based Carrefour plans to open 20 more hypermarkets in the region over the next 10 years, while Casino has plans to open 15 more stores over the next three years. Al Faisaliah Center (left), a popular shopping destination, houses stores such as Harvey Nichols, Nike, Zara, Mango and DKNY. § TUNISIA Score: 64 There is defi nitely more to this North African country than the souks (colorful open markets that sell everything from spices to jewelry). Major cities, such as Tunis and Sousse, boast some of the country’s largest shopping destinations. Located just outside of Tunis is the Berges du Lac 11 commercial center, home to an upscale hotel and spa, along with nearby stores that include Gap and Carrefour, which opened its hypermarket in 2001.

BULGARIA Score: 63 The central European country joined the European Union this year, “which opens up numerous opportunities for economic growth in this highly fragmented market,” noted the study — which also pointed out that European giant Carrefour is reportedly attempting to jump into the region. The 12 bustling capital Sofi a is the most likely destination for expanding retailers. At City Center Sofi a mall, retailers range from Nike, Puma and Geox to Sephora and Marks & Spencer. Another popular shopping street is Ivan Assen II, where lots of boutiques, small cafes and restaurants are located. LATVIA BY JANEK SKARZYNSKI/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; MALAYSIA BY CHRIS HONDROS/GETTY IMAGES; MEXICO BY AP PHOTO/JOSE LUIS MAGANA; CHRIS HONDROS/GETTY AP PHOTO/JOSE LUIS SAUDI IMAGES; MEXICO BY JANEK SKARZYNSKI/AFP/GETTYBY BY IMAGES; MALAYSIA LATVIA INDIA PHOTO BY MANPREET ROMANA/AFP/GETTY CHINA PHOTOS/GETTYINDIA PHOTO BY TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES; RUSSIA IMAGES; CHINA IMAGES; VIETNAM BY BY SOURCE: A.T. KEARNEY’S GLOBAL RETAIL DEVELOPMENT INDEX REPORT; * AND † AND § INDICATE TIES WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 15 WWD.COM The Beat Contemporary’s Retail Movement By Julee Greenberg here’s no question the contemporary market is booming. And for those designers Triding the wave, expansion means not only launching new product categories, but opening their own stores on a worldwide scale. “For me, I want to open stores in cities that I personally like to visit,” said Nanette Lepore, who plans to open units in Chicago at 1625 North Damen Avenue; in Chevy Chase, Md., at 5449 Wisconsin Avenue, and a second Los Angeles store, at 8420 Melrose Avenue — joining her six shops already in operation. The designer’s Las Vegas location in the city’s Forum Shops remains her best-performing one, bringing in well over $2 million in sales per year. “We do really great business in our stores and we always get good feedback from our customers, which really does help us,” said Lepore. To go with the planned openings, Lepore said she had begun working with Chandelier, a New York branding fi rm, to revamp the company’s logo and Web site. Lepore said that project should be ready by September. “It’s time for the brand to grow up and modernize,” Lepore said. “We’ve had the same look for a very long time.” Lepore said the Chevy Chase store, which should open in November, would have a shoe salon selling her newly expanded line of footwear. The only other store that has the salon is the London location in Notting Hill. The stores have been a Betsey Johnson’s fi rst Japanese store. set in ornate frames, a pink rose-printed couch and shiny, gold fi xtures. “great testing ground for “We have been impressed with the professionalism of U International and their understanding of how to successfully grow the brand in Japan,’’ said us and a place where we Chantal Bacon, Johnson’s business partner. “They believed in the brand from the very beginning and now, after only one year, [we] are opening the fi rst Betsey Johnson can create more special store in Japan.” By fall, four more stores are scheduled to open in the country, including three pieces. in Tokyo — in Shibuya Parco, Ginza Printemps and Shinjuku Lumine — and one in Nagoya Takashimaya. ” — Nanette Lepore Having already expanded internationally with 150 stores operated through li- censing deals, Jill Stuart now plans to take on the U.S. The company opened its fi rst “The stores have been a great testing American store 10 years ago in New York’s SoHo and had planned to open more na- ground for us and a place where we can tionally. Then, according to Ron Curtis, Stuart’s husband and company president, they create more special pieces,” she said. put the plans on hold — until now. After these stores open in the fall, “We’ve had growth plans for the U.S. for a long time, but our sales in Asia have Lepore said she would begin looking for A sketch of Nanette Lepore’s Chevy Chase, been two times as much as they were here,” she said, “so we grew there fi rst and then sites in San Francisco and Dallas. She Md., store. came back here.” would also like to open a store in Dublin, In May, the company opened its second U.S. store, in East Hampton, N.Y., at 62 The where she has started scouting for space. And Lepore said she was looking for part- Circle. The 1,500-square-foot boutique houses the brand’s seasonal collection as well ners in Asia and in the Middle East to open stores there. Eventually, the designer as the expanded accessories line of signature handbags and shoes. The store also will said, she would like to open stores throughout Europe. carry the lower-priced contemporary line Jill, which is being launched this fall. Betsey Johnson is also expanding through freestanding retail. The designer al- “The East Hampton venue is a natural fi t and progression for the brand,” Stuart ready operates 50 stores worldwide, but a year ago signed a fi ve-year deal with U said. “Here we can create the appropriate environment and setting for the evolution International Offi ce Co. Ltd. to open 10 stores throughout Japan. The fi rst, which of our collections and cater to women of distinctive style. I can’t think of a more ap- opened last month, in Saitama City, is 950 square feet. The store sells the entire propriate site for our newest store.” Betsey Johnson product range, including apparel, intimates, handbags, belts, cold Following the opening of the East Hampton boutique, Curtis said he was already weather accessories, eyewear, watches and jewelry. on the hunt for more locations. He said he planned to open 30 stores in the U.S. over All the stores in Japan will look like those already in operation, with signature the next two years. While leases have yet to be signed, Curtis said the expansion was pink walls, black-and-white checkerboard fl oors, the designer’s eye-catching artwork expected to include retail outlets in Los Angeles and Chicago. Analysts Give a Positive Spin for Back-to-School Season he back-to-school shopping season is right around Dana Telsey, of Telsey Advisory Group, predicts a Tthe corner and with teen spending up, analysts be- challenging, but still profi table, b-t-s season, especially lieve the age group will be in the stores well before since teens have begun shopping earlier. they hit the books. “One of the most challenging things for retailers According to Christine Chen, specialty retail ana- is the calendar shift that’s happening,” Telsey said. lyst at Needham & Co. LLC, a San Francisco-based “They will need to serve those shopping in July, August investment fi rm, stores like Abercrombie & Fitch, and in September, which means they will need to have Aéropostale and Hollister are stocked with trend-right a lot of buy-now, wear-now product in the stores.” merchandise that will entice teens. Telsey said stores like American Eagle Outfi tters “Last year it was really the more popular, fashion- and Forever 21 are sure to have a good season because oriented girls picking up the skinny jeans and baby- of their wide teen appeal. Abercrombie & Fitch will doll styles,” Chen explained. “But this year it’s every- also have some “must-have items” for b-t-s and Kohl’s where and it seems to be the new uniform for teens.” has an array of reinvigorated lines ready for fall, she Chen said that on the negative end, gas prices re- added. main high, but with many of their parents paying to “There is a place for everyone for back-to-school fi ll their tanks and minimum wages rising, teens will this year,” Telsey said. “And that is very promising.” continue to have money to spend. Analysts say that Abercrombie & Fitch is on the right track for WWD’s “Where America Shops” survey, which was “The rise in minimum wage has a huge impact on a good back-to-school season. completed on May 29 and surveyed 521 teens age 13 to the teen customer,” she said. “I know that retailers 17, showed that teen spending is on the rise — another aren’t seeing this as a good thing since they have to pay A new survey done by Burson-Marsteller, a New indication of a strong b-t-s season to come. The survey their employees more money, but for teens, this will York-based marketing and public relations fi rm, said indicated that 69 percent of teens aged 13 to 17 said give them more money to spend on the three things teens are big spenders on everything from food and they buy more clothes now than they did last year, com- they love to spend on — food, entertainment and cloth- beverages to music and apparel. The company sur- pared with 26 percent who said they buy less. Over the ing. I think that in the end, retailers will see that the veyed kids aged 10 to 18 — called “youth-fl uentials,” next six months, more than half said they will spend minimum wage hike is a good thing.” or the popular, infl uencing teens. The survey looked the same amount on clothes as they did during the fi rst That said, teens are consistently looking to buy af- into where and why the age group makes certain half of the year. Only 13 percent plan to spend less. fordable merchandise, hoping to stretch their money purchases. “Teens will always fi nd ways to buy what they want,” as far as it will go. But the cash is there. According to “Affordability is most important,” said Ame Chen said. “She will eat Ramen all month so that she a survey conducted by MarketResearch.com, the teen Wadler, chief strategic offi cer at Burson-Marsteller. can afford that new bag. And there are still plenty of population has a total income of $80 billion, and par- “Of course the fashion has to be there, but they are teens who will go back-to-school shopping with mom, ents spend an additional $110 billion annually on their most likely to spend their money on items that fi t which pretty much guarantees new clothes.” teen children. within their own budgets.” — J.G. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM Australian Wool Innovation, PETA Come to Terms By Patty Huntington that this is a huge backdown on behalf to prevent fl ystrike, which is endemic in actor Toni Colette, who spoke out against of AWI,” said PETA’s Australian lawyer, Australia — and the export of live sheep. mulesing. However, both later apologized SYDNEY — Pitted against each other for Fraser Shepherd, of Sydney law firm PETA’s campaign against mulesing tar- to Australian wool farmers, conceding the past two years in the Federal Court Gilbert and Tobin, adding the group is geted a number of retailers. After being they had gotten their facts wrong. of Australia — and on the front steps of setting up an Australian offi ce and has threatened with action, Abercrombie & AWI initiated federal court proceed- some of the world’s biggest retailers — no intention of taking its eyes off the Fitch Co. agreed not to use Australian ings against PETA in November 2004, Australian Wool Innovation and People mulesing issue. Noted Shepherd, “This wool. J. Crew and the U.K.’s New Look serving papers on the organization’s for the Ethical Treatment of Animals agreement doesn’t stop picketing, a call did not join the boycott, but assured president, Ingrid Newkirk, on-camera, at have reached a cease-fi re, at least for the for a boycott of Australian wool; it doesn’t PETA they did not use mulesed wool. the conclusion of an interview Newkirk time being. restrict 99 percent of the campaign.” Benetton Group SpA refused to join any had done on the mulesing story with Last week, following four days of According to AWI deputy chief execu- boycott, prompting a series of PETA pro- Australian “60 Minutes.” The thrust of mediation, AWI, the Australian wool tive offi cer Les Targ, PETA was offered tests outside its stores in the U.S. and the claim was that PETA had breached industry’s research and development exactly the same deal in 2004 but re- arm, agreed to withdraw its two-year- fused it. old federal court case against PETA. In “For three years they’ve been taking We’ll see if they do us some damage. We will exchange, the animal rights organization us head on and they’ve seen the whites “ agreed to a temporary suspension world- of our eyes and they’ve seen that we will continue to protect this industry’s best interests. wide of its activities either calling for, or defend this industry, and I don’t think threatening to call for, a consumer boy- they’re used to that,” said Targ. PETA knows and our wool growers know and the cott of any retailer involved in the sale “We can’t stop them undertaking ordi- of products made from mulesed wool. nary, legal protest activity — if they want retailers know that there is a line that we won’t let The agreement will last until Dec. 31, to protest outside an Australian embassy, 2010 — the date by which the Australian we can’t stop them,” he said, adding the them cross. wool industry has agreed to phase out industry has already spent 8 million to 10 ” surgical mulesing. million Australian dollars, or $6.8 million — Les Targ, AWI But PETA is obliged to maintain to $8.5 million at current exchange, fi ght- the moratorium beyond Dec. 31, 2007, ing PETA’s campaign, including 3 million Europe. The campaign against Benetton the secondary boycott provisions of the under several provisos, including that Australian dollars, or $2.6 million, in was dropped after the Italian company Trade Practices Act 1974. an education program is established for legal fees and 2 million Australian dol- lent its support to an agreement signed by In February, Federal Treasurer Peter Australian wool growers who mules their lars, or $1.7 million, on an advertising PETA and the Australian Wool Growers Costello proposed amendments to the sheep; that a labelling system is intro- campaign in the U.S. Association in August 2005, which set out legislation that would strengthen these duced by which unmulesed wool may be Targ said, “We’ll see if they do us some specifi c targets for a complete phase-out secondary boycott provisions. identifi ed to manufacturers and retail- damage. We will continue to protect this of mulesing by 2010, including a condi- “The government’s reforms would ers, and that AWI establishes a genetic industry’s best interests. PETA knows tion that live exports be halted. enable the Australian Competition and research program subject to biannual re- and our wool growers know and the re- PETA’s claims that a number of other Consumer Commission to bring represen- view by a panel of independent experts tailers know that there is a line that we firms joined the campaign — includ- tative actions on behalf of wool growers to be agreed upon by AWI and PETA. won’t let them cross.” ing American Eagle Outfitters Inc., in cases like this [PETA],” Costello told According to AWI, all these industry ini- In late 2004, PETA initiated a con- Timberland Co. and Limited Brands Inc. the Pastoralists and Graziers Association tiatives were already in the pipeline. sumer boycott against Australian sheep — were refuted by AWI. The organization of Western Australia Centenary Both sides have claimed victory in the farmers, mainly over the Australian nevertheless continues to recruit celebri- Convention in Perth last February, before case. farming practise of mulesing — the strip- ties to its anti-mulesing cause, including adding, “Ignorant commentary from mis- “Any objective person has to conclude ping of fl esh from a lamb’s hindquarters the American singer Pink and Australian guided celebrities would remain legal.” WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 17 Obituaries WWD.COM Former French First Lady Claude Pompidou Harry Bulova Henshel, By Miles Socha Former Bulova CEO Pompidou in …and in 1970. NEW YORK — Harry Bulova Henshel, PARIS — Claude Pompidou, the former 2002… former chairman and chief executive first lady of France and a regular at the officer of Bulova Corp., died Friday couture shows, died Tuesday at her home at 88. in Paris. She was 94. A statement issued by the com- Her eponymous foundation, which aids pany said Henshel died in his home the elderly and handicapped, did not indi- in Scarsdale, N.Y., following a long cate the cause of death. It is understood, illness. however, that she had recently sustained Henshel was the grandson of a fall. Joseph Bulova, who founded the “She was a very great lady and a won- company here in 1875. Bulova is now derful friend,” said Bernard Arnault, a subsidiary of Loews Corp., which chairman and chief executive of LVMH bought the fi rm in 1979. Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, who Henshel graduated from Brown proudly sat at her side at the Dior fashion University in 1940 and subsequently shows. “She was extremely interested in received a master’s degree from the creativity.” Harvard School of Business in 1951. Arnault praised Pompidou’s devotion He served in World War II as a cap- to charity work, and her exceptional sup- tain and soon after joined the fam- port of the arts. ily business, serving in a variety of In particular, Pompidou was a major roles during his tenure at the fi rm, proponent of modern art, championing including as a traveling salesman. In the construction of the museum in Paris 1958, he succeeded his uncle, Ardé that bears her surname. Among cultural Bulova, as president, after his death. fi gures in her inner circle were the paint- He added chairman to his title in er Bernard Buffet and writer Françoise 1974, following Gen. Omar Bradley. Sagan. She was also an honorary trustee Under Henshel’s leadership, of the Guggenheim museum in New York. Bulova introduced the first fully “She was so sweet,” said Karl electronic watch, Accutron. Lagerfeld. “She was tall, slim and elegant, Henshel had an interest in so fashion was not a stranger to her. I must She was the modern woman: elegant and artistic. sports, serving as a member of the say, she looked good in Chanel, and in her “ U.S. Olympic Basketball Committee bold Cardin dresses, too.” for 25 years and as a track offi cial at Lagerfeld said he was invited to din- She was truly her own person. events such as the Millrose Games. ner at her home recently, and Pompidou ” — Coqueline Courrèges He also owned, raced and bred wore a long, navy wool crepe dress with thoroughbreds in New York and fl at shoes. “She was the chicest person Pierre Cardin. “She was the modern woman: elegant Florida. there,” he said. “She was very nonconformist,” said and artistic. She was truly her own per- He was affi liated or on the board Sidney Toledano, president of Pamela Golbin, conservator in charge of son,” Courrèges continued. “I remember of many organizations, including the Christian Dior, said Pompidou was a fan 20th-century collections at the Museum of we had long discussions about paintings UJA-Federation of New York, the of couturier John Galliano from the begin- Fashion and Textiles here. “She was even and sculpture, because that was what ani- F.E.G.S. Health and Human Services ning, even when his collections were “not wearing jeans when she would go to the mated Madame Pompidou; fi ne art and System, Parsons School of Design of so easy.” country. She was very informal, but al- beauty of all kinds.” the New School University, Adelphi “She had a real understanding of fash- ways extremely chic.” Although she shunned the media University and UNICEF. He also ion,” he said. “She was so open.” Coqueline Courrèges, the wife of spotlight and expressed discomfort with helped found the Joseph Bulova The widow of former French president André, recalls Pompidou coming to them public life, Pompidou was no stranger School of Watchmaking in 1945, Georges Pompidou — who died in offi ce in the early Sixties and buying a white to fashion’s front rows. She also hosted which trained disabled veterans, on April 2, 1974 — Pompidou brought a pantsuit. an annual dinner-and-movie fund-raiser guaranteeing them jobs in the jew- modern, less rigid image to the Elysée “She was revolutionary in wear- for her foundation every September that elry industry. Palace with her penchant for abstract ing pantsuits and short sleeves at the kicked off the social season in Paris. Henshel is survived by his wife of art, contemporary furniture and cutting- time,” she said. “Right along with Jackie Services are set for Friday at the Eglise 59 years, the former Joy Altman; four edge clothes. She made strong fashion Kennedy and Françoise Hardy, Madame Saint-Louis en l’Ile. daughters, and four grandchildren. statements in the Sixties, adopting avant- Pompidou had the most extraordinary — With contributions from — Sophia Chabbott garde designers like André Courrèges and elegance. Alexxa Gotthardt Frederic Malle Plans New York Fragrance Boutique

NEW YORK — Frederic Malle has set his sights on September of last year, said his long-term plan is to Manhattan. open freestanding stores in selected U.S. cities. Coty Appoints Macchio to R&D Post Malle, who markets a line of fragrances indepen- He also wants to build the business in Barneys New oty Inc. has named Ralph Macchio senior vice pres- dently created by some of the top perfumers in the fra- York, which carries the brand in fi ve stores in the U.S. Cident, global research and development, and chief grance industry, is scouting locations on the Upper East By yearend, Malle expects to be carried in a total of scientific officer, a new position. Side for his fi rst freestanding store outside of Paris. seven Barneys locations. Macchio, who joined Coty in 1992, was most recent- “The fi rst branching out will be New York,” Malle In the near term, Malle is set to launch in the U.S. ly general manager of the fi rm’s research facility in said during a recent his 16th scent, a men’s fragrance called Bois d’Orage Morris Plains, N.J., where he led the global research interview. (Thunder Wood, in English). and development of all Coty Inc. He anticipates The scent was created by Pierre toiletries, color cosmetics, fra- opening a boutique Bourdon of Fragrance Resources, grances and other personal care here within the next who also created Davidoff Cool BEAUTY BEAT items, according to the company. 12 months. And while Water. In his new post, Macchio’s re- his three boutiques in Bois d’Orage mixes notes of pimento and galbanum sponsibilities will include “strengthening Coty’s inno- the City of Light aver- with angelica, iris, cedarwood and vetiver. The scent vative capabilities while improving upon the best R&D age about 600 square also includes accords of patchouli, karanal, incense practices,” the company said in a statement. Macchio feet, Malle believes and musk. will work with the fi rm’s Coty Prestige and Coty Beauty his first New York Bois d’Orage, which is slated to make its debut in divisions “to tighten business development and strate- store could exceed the U.S. in late September, will be available in a 50-ml. gies across product teams,” according to Coty. 1,000 square feet. version for $125 and a 100-ml. size for $185. “I don’t want a Industry sources estimate the scent could generate shoebox on Madison fi rst-year sales of 500,000 euros, or $681,000 at current L’Oréal Scents Take Father’s Day Avenue,” he said. exchange rates. esults for men’s fragrance sales prior to Father’s “That’s not what we Sales of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle reached RDay are in — and four out of the top five sell- are about. I want to 5 million euros, or $6.3 million at average exchange, for ing scents are marketed by L’Oréal, according to do something a bit 2006, up roughly 31 percent over 2005, according to es- data from The NPD Group Inc.. During the week more glamorous.” timates by industry sources. of June 10 to June 16, Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Malle, who moved Malle anticipates sales this year will again reach a Gio Pour Homme ranked number one in sales, fol- to the U.S. and es- growth rate of about 30 percent. lowed by Sean John’s Unforgivable, Polo Double tablished Editions Internationally, the brand’s wholesale network in- Black, Armani Code and Armani Attitude. The Estée Bois d’Orage, Frederic Malle’s de Parfums Frederic cludes about 50 doors in Europe and Asia. Lauder Cos. Inc. markets Sean “Diddy” Combs’ newest scent. Malle Inc. here in — Matthew W. Evans Unforgivable fragrance. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 WWD.COM Designer Takes Line to the Streets of Milan By Stephanie Epiro MILAN — Since its debut in the Forties, the three-wheel car the “Ape” (bee in Italian) has been spotted careening around streets of small Italian towns selling fruit, fish and flowers. But Valeria Ferlini has taken a different turn: She’s converted the iconic Italian vehicle into a mobile fashion boutique. Ferlini dreamed up the idea of mobile stores while lying on the beach on vacation. “I was thinking, wouldn’t it be great if someone came up to me right now and offered really cute objects and clothes PHOTOS BY DAVID YODER DAVID PHOTOS BY — not the market rubbish that Valeria Ferlini has made the Ape car into a traveling boutique for everyone sells,” she recalled. her women’s line, Malandra, and other merchandise. Curious to see if the idea would work, Ferlini found an Ape, fi t- sales of $893,000. Knitwear label Punto Cashmere was and can be customized at no extra cost. ted its rear with a frilly canopy and Ferlini secured permits from the created specifi cally for Moving Shop, and Today, Moving Shop’s fl eet of 30 Apes fi lled it with linen caftans and cotton councils in Milan and Rome to operate Italian manufacturer Miroglio-Vestibene operate across the peninsula, hitting 17 dresses from her own women’s line, her Ape boutiques, which she dubbed relaunched a fashion-forward women’s Italian cities and towns. The cars park in Malandra, which she had wholesaled “Moving Shop.” Not long after, she signed line called C’est Comme Ca, which is sold key locales, in front of universities, pop- to retailers from her showroom on a deal with Piaggio — the car’s producer exclusively from fi ve Ape cars. ular restaurants and in pretty piazzas. Via Montenapoleone here. She then — to make customized awnings and print- “Everything is made in Italy and costs Traffi c wardens pose no threat, thanks to spent summer 2003 puttering around ed plastic covers that can house as many 20 percent less than it would in the store. an all-areas parking sticker bestowed to the Tuscan beachside town of Forti dei as 400 garments, stored in rose-decorated Customers are attracted to the Ape cars Ferlini by the local city councils. Marmi selling her wares. rattan baskets. because they are cute and different, but But Ferlini has her eye on the future, “I was bored with the idea of selling Last year, Ferlini diversifi ed Moving the product makes them come back,” and she’s keen to export her quirky on- clothes through a showroom and I was Shop’s offer by signing on other Italian said Ferlini. the-go boutiques across the pond, using convinced there was a way you could sell brands, such Bellora for bed linens and She recently rounded out her offerings a mix of American and Italian brands. fashion on the street and give it a chic at- Sobimila for trendy young women’s and with a namesake label of printed linen, “I can see them in Miami and New York mosphere,” said Ferlini. children’s wear. The Ape cars are deco- cotton and silk dresses, tops and pants City. The Apes are fun and really unique. She was right, considering that on rated according to the merchandise, from manufactured by female prison inmates I really think they’ll appeal to trendy, average each Ape drives home annual candy-pink stripes to cartoon-ish girls. in Milan. A tunic dress retails for $200 young American customers,” she said. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 2007 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Accountant $60-80K Min. 2 yrs current exp in apparel co. req’d. Assist CFO in all aspects of financials. Career oppty. Mdtn 50 mil vol co. Call: 973-564-9236 or Email: [email protected]

Accountant Chief Financial Officer $150- 175K BOE. Current exp in apparel co. that does min 50 mill vol req’d. Strong relationships with banks /factors. Mdtn co. Email: [email protected] Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. PATTERN/SAMPLES No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Admin Since 1967 Call CLOTHES-OUT: work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 (937) 898-2975 W-I-N-S-T-O-N Patterns/Samples/Production APPAREL STAFFING Full Service, Fine Fast Work. DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Any Styles. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ASSISTANT COLORIST PRODUCTIONS JOBBER/EXPORTER All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Fresh, young intimate apparel company We buy better goods. All categories, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. has entry-level opening for Junior Color- including fabrics. Immediate $$. ist to assist in tracking and coordinating Please call 212-279-1902 color and product development processes PATTERNS, SAMPLES, including lab-dips, fabric and trim quali- PRODUCTIONS ty evaluation and sample garment review Full service shop to the trade. for national brands. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Candidate must be detail-oriented with strong organizational skills and ability PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD to prioritize in a fast-paced environment. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Must interact and communicate with sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 overseas factories. Microsoft Excel and Outlook proficiency a must. E-mail resume and salary requirements to : [email protected]

PRODUCTION ASST. FOR SALE Leading children’s apparel company Search For Space In Garment Center seeks a highly motivated and detail- Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Key West Hand Print oriented individual to oversee all www.midcomre.com aspects of production to ensure Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Key West Hand Prints Fabric and on-time delivery thru daily communi- Fashion, Est. 1962, internationally re- cation between design/sales and Showroom Manager nowned for its outstanding tropical overseas vendors. Responsibilities prints, is seeking a BUYER for its include: follow-up with overseas facto- WEST COAST SALES Wholesale/Retail Company that includes ries, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. Exciting new Women’s Higher-end Con- Showrooms & Lofts over 200 accounts, the brand name Strong communication skills req’d. temporary Collection based in LA, seeks BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS "Key West", an established internet Must have good working knowledge of an exp’d & entrepreneurial Showroom Great ’New’ Office Space Avail store, ownership of the "Key West" Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. USA Wholesale Manager Manager to help launch a new line for ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Trademark, and over 2000 copyrighted E-mail resume with salary this Resort season and manage Sales for original print designs. requirements Attn Charles to: London based luxury lifestyle brand Myla are looking for a the West Coast. Must have well- Contact Ed Swift at (305) 294-4142 [email protected] Wholesale Manager. We are looking for an energetic, established contacts, exp w/ running a showroom and tradeshows and knowl- enthusiastic and driven individual to join our international edge of maintaining a consistent brand SALES ASST ...... TO 55K sales team with 3-5 years proven track record and experience image. Tremendous growth potential. Mid Tier Stores, Grow To Account Mgr in the intimates market. Ideal candidates will possess Excellent salary and commissions. Must Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 start ASAP. Email/fax resumes to: [email protected] strong fashion sales experience, as well as understand the [email protected] www.srisearch.com US intimates market. Under the direction of Sales Director, or 213-228-5824 you will be driving and developing the wholesale expansion TECHNICAL DESIGNERS/$55- $65k+ strategy in the US. Must come with contacts and be able to travel For leading NYC children’s wear co. Must have children’s wear experience work directly with buyers demonstrating a proven track record with ability to fit, write comments, of established relationships with department and specialty grade, spec etc. Growth opportunity. Email resume: [email protected] stores. Travel involved. Fax 917-591-2521 Ph 914-337-3660 To apply for the above position, please email your resume to [email protected] SALES ASSOCIATE We are a premier girlswear co. seeking s w i m w e a r a Sales Associate. Will service existing accounts, develop new accounts, handle SALES REPS WANTED requests for information , resolve issues For the following states: and identify opportunities to improve sales. Domestic travel to customer lo- OH,MN,IA,IL,MI,ND,SD,IN,WI,NE cations required. Must have excellent Seeking highly talented & experienced organization & time management skills Sales Reps to join our "Dream Team". with a high sense of urgency. 1-3 years Email info/ resume to: Mel Priess at of sales experience preferred. [email protected] connections Please Send Resumes to : [email protected]. Advertise in WWD, DNR and FN at a special rate and reach EOE. a unique audience of professionals across the women’s, Vice President of Sales Mfr. with NY showroom seeks a dynamic men’s and footwear industries. & result driven Vice President of Sales specializing in Children’s Wear; or Under- wear, or Sportswear. Qualified candidate must have existing relationships with Chain Stores, and possess excellent com- munication & follow-up skills. Please submit resume & expected salary to: Call 1-800-423-3314 or email [email protected] fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. WWDMus c Fashion Headliners

Timed to the MTV Video Music Awards, WWD’s Music Issue takes a look at the next generation of young trendsetters setting the stage in music and fashion.

Bonus Distribution: College campuses and music stores nationwide.

Section II: August 30 Close: August 14

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