v Mornington Peninsula

To millions of wine drinkers,

Chardonnay isn’t just a grape

variety, it’s a brand and a lifestyle.

To the wine industry worldwide,

it’s queen bee and liquid gold – the

most widely planted white grape in

Australia. CHRIS BARNES and

our Tasting Panel of wine experts

investigate this regal variety which

dominates plantings in two of

Victoria’s richest wine regions.

Our Tasting Panel

Karl Stockhausen: (Chairman) Winemaker and Wine Show Judge Chris Pfeiffer: Victorian Winemaker, Wine Show Judge and Chairman of the Wine Show Chris Barnes: (Facilitator) Wine Educator, Wine Show Judge Christian Gaffey: Winemaker Sally Fisk: Winemaker Trent Mannell: Wine Show Judge Rob Jones: Wine Afficiado

20 today is a household adventurous and an individual The use of oak became word. Though we may bandy reflection of the winemakers’ craft. commonplace in France by the Middle Ages when Chardonnay about sayings like "Chardonnay Remember, Chardonnay is used appeared in Burgundy, possibly Socialist" or "Chardonnay for styles as different as crisp, coming from the Middle East Swilling," how many people who from where it is known by the have heard of Chablis or in France to rich, burnished wines synonyms Meroue and Obaideh. Burgundy know the connection from the Hunter Valley. In its with Chardonnay? How many Burgundian homeland, it has been In Australia in the early 1980s, buyers have any idea why some responsible for all the finest South Australia’s Roseworthy Chardonnays cost $12 a bottle White Burgundy. Today it’s the College, the only full-time and others retail for ten times that second most populous variety in winemaking institution in the amount? And importantly, how French and Californian vineyards southern hemisphere, believed many winemakers know what sort and has found its way on to labels Chardonnay needed the boost of of Chardonnay they are going to in places as diverse as Lebanon new, full-flavoured, and very make when the grapes turn up at and Bulgaria. expensive, oak. That was fine if the winery door? the grapes used were very The vine, in its many clonal concentrated in flavour and had These were some of the questions variations, will grow in sub-alpine appropriately high natural acid and comments that flew around climates of Austria and Italy to levels, which doesn’t happen in our tasting table, as a panel of hot, irrigated sites in Australia’s every vineyard. So, if consumers winemakers, wine judges and wine Riverland. In short it’s an wanted wood, cheaper alternatives educators got together at exceedingly useful grape! such as chips in the tank began to Selectors for our The title for discovery of become commonplace. Then Yarra Valley and Mornington Chardonnay in Australia causes there was a revolution. Towards Peninsula Chardonnay Tasting. quite a bit of "discussion", the end of the 1980s someone between the Murray Tyrrell said "enough". The general verdict was that this supporters and the Mudgee crew. Those styles now seem like tasting confirmed Chardonnay as But suffice to say it was a grape dinosaurs and evoke images of a "winemaker’s wine" – with just variety unknown here until the people spitting oak chips and as much flavour coming from the 1970s and not popular till the having a cigarette between courses winemaking practices as from the early 1980s and then, didn’t it – at the table! The market has grape itself. The major difference boom! The full flavours and moved on. In all aspects of food between the two areas was that obvious oak of those wines seemed and wine, lighter and fresher wines from the better established to suit the over-the-top style of flavours are now in demand. This Yarra showed a more conventional the entrepreneurs and developers hasn’t seen the demise of and consumer friendly style, while of the time. After all, big was Chardonnay, anything but, what it wines from the Mornington better and you couldn’t get bigger has done is caused winemakers to (which has many new boutique than Barossa Chardonnay with look for alternative ways to grow wineries) were noticably plenty of oak and alcohol. and work with this classic variety.

21 CHRIS PFIEFFER

So a new style of "unwooded" or The best quality "unoaked" Chardonnay appeared. I Chardonnay will CHRIS BARNES remember the first time I tasted one of always come from these wines in 1990, I thought the vineyards with low crop levels. What’s winemaker had bottled a tank sample by more you really need the best clone of mistake! So much for my prejudice – Chardonnay for the lighter, more the style took off and is now a valid elegant wines. So this is no easy task! alternative for winemakers who don’t It’s the search for want oak dominance that risks making KARL STOCKHAUSEN sites to produce the wine cloying and bitter. high quality Another alternative for winemakers to Chardonnay that work with is "malo". This term crops up led the pioneers of all the time in Chardonnay tasting this wine in notes, although less frequently now. It’s Australia to the simply a technique to modify the acid Yarra Valley and KEITH TULLOCH structure of a wine using naturally then the occurring micro-organisms. The process Mornington Peninsula. has been occurring since the beginning In the Yarra Valley the leaders were men of wine, although it’s with Chardonnay such as John Middleton, Gil de Pury, where it really makes a flavour Reg Egan, Bailey Carrodus and James difference. In malolactic fermentation Halliday. To the (MLF to your friends at the dinner south on the SALLY FISK party) malic acid is converted to lactic Peninsula, as it’s acid by lactic bacteria. This change simply known, the causes the wine to take on buttery or names that stand creamy characters, particularly delicious out are Nat White, in oaky Chardonnay. Brian Stonier, Of course, the big issue for winemakers Garry Crittenden to address if they want to change the and the TRENT MANNELL style of their Chardonnay is grape Hickinbothams. flavour and composition. This might Of course there are more famous names seem a simple answer, but remember in both regions now, but these were that although you can pick grapes the people planting Chardonnay in a earlier to get higher natural acid it’s a region many poor substitute for growing the vines in viticulturalists told ROB JONES a cool climate. It also doesn’t help if the them would never CHRISTIAN GAFFEY naturally vigorous Chardonnay vines are be warm enough to producing heaps of fruit. ripen the grapes!

22 ‘The general verdict was that this tasting confirmed

Chardonnay as a

"winemaker’s wine" – with just as much flavour coming from the winemaking practices So how do we define differences "American" clones, but with more as from the grape itself.’ and similarities between these two material related to the best premium Chardonnay-producing vineyards in Burgundy. regions and what did we learn Our Tasting Panel realised that it’s from our tasting? ‘There were wines that the in the glass where we see the real The Yarra Valley and the difference. We tasted 43 wines Panel thought came from Mornington Peninsula are cool from both regions. All were climate, using the broad definition current releases and only one immature vineyards and based on latitude, and both are was not yet commercially wines where the maker had recognised as that by consumers available. They were tasted blind, and winemakers alike. They both but classed according to region tried too hard, and over use this "cool" tag as a way to and vintage. Scoring was done promote their wines and explain using the 20-point Australian worked the wine.’ the styles of Chardonnay. The Wine Show System. notion of both regions as premium One point we were sure of. That producers is also very evident. this tasting confirmed Chardonnay There is also some commonality in as a "winemaker’s wine" and the ‘In general the 2002 wines the emphasis on wine tourism and major difference seemed to be that looked better than the "boutique" production. This may the Yarra wines showed a more not at first seem to have much to conventional and consumer previous year and happily the do with the Chardonnays we drink friendly style, whereas the from these regions, but it does, as Mornington wines were more a few 2003s we tasted were was obvious in our tasting. reflection of winemakers looking for individual expression. This was all looking very smart.’ The major differences in climate evident in the use of oak, the time terms are the maritime influence the wines spent in contact with enjoyed by the Peninsula and the effect of altitude, further cooling the lees while in barrel and a pursuit of different flavours. ‘The major differences in the Yarra Valley. Soil types differ, but more importantly the soils Three vintages made up the climate terms are the maritime differ greatly within each region. tasting, with the bulk of both So it’s not really fair to make a regions from 2002. In general the influence enjoyed by the general comparison of soil profile 2002 wines looked better than the previous year and happily the few Peninsula and the effect of between the two. Suffice to say that both have their share of well- 2003s we tasted were all looking altitude, further cooling the drained, low vigour soils. The very smart. What good news for clones planted in each region are a the Chardonnay drinker in 2004 Yarra Valley.’ mix of the older so-called and 2005!

23 Chardonnay

When reviewing the Panel’s notes really good French oak treatment there are some telling similarities on the whole. They were also and differences between the wines that seemed made for REVIEWS regions. The words that seemed drinking and enjoying sooner common to the Mornington rather than later. With a couple of Peninsula wine were "citrus, melon exceptions, none of the wines Out of the 43 wines and fig" with characters of barrel- reviewed from the Yarra should be ferment and "Chablis style". While cellared for more than two or tasted, these 18 were for the Yarra Valley the textbook three years. This is not surprising the stand-outs in the descriptors of "melon, peach and given these Chardonnays look nectarine" were common, added to slightly riper and richer, and come eyes of the Panel. the characters of more robust oak from makers who know the market and overall ripeness. So how do and how to deliver what the we explain this? drinkers want. The so-called "Chablis style" is In essence the tasting found a more suited to higher acid wines. great selection of Chardonnays Leaving wines in barrels and that had moved from the over- "working" the wine achieves this. oaked artefacts of ten years ago. Stirring the lees (dead yeast cells) They were, in the most part, and allowing some volatile wines that recognise that the characters to occur in the wine most important part of any wine helps lift the wine from the glass. is the balance between fruit It also tends to make the wine flavour and structure. TASTING PANEL stand out from the crowd, and it’s There were wines that the Panel a style that many wine writers and Karl Stockhausen thought came from immature judges are currently rating highly. vineyards and wines where the Chris Pfeiffer All this leads us to the maker had tried too hard, and Mornington Peninsula, where over worked the wine. Chris Barnes there are increasingly more The difference between the Keith Tulloch small wineries with new labels regions in consumer terms is one competing for a place in Christian Gaffey of newer styles and variety of style the market. on the Peninsula against Trent Mannell On the other hand, the wines of consistency and less adventure in the Yarra seem to be less the Valley. No wonder that Sally Fisk adventurous, but perhaps more Chardonnay is still on the Rob Jones consistent. These wines showed ascendancy on a global scale!

24 FERGUSSON 1999 ($25) PARINGA ESTATE 2001 ($32)

"Good to drink now" "Keith Tulloch – top scorer"

The "oldest" wine in the tasting and one This wine set the Panel talking about which is holding up for its age. The colour complexity, wild yeast and solids ferment! is still vibrant and the nose is quite delicate. It has balanced citrus acid and very good There is an aroma of grapefruit and a integration of oak. Chris Pfeiffer said it was mineral character. The acid is firm, but will well crafted and Keith praised the soften and reflects the cooler 99 vintage. "amazingly silky mouthfeel." Christian said Trent said it was "very tight, with good it had good ageing potential. A fine, cool citrus and peach notes." The Panel agreed climate example from that vintage on the the wine was austere but good to drink now. Mornington Peninsula.

WILLOW CREEK "Tulum" COLDSTREAM HILLS 2001 ($30) RESERVE 2000 ($43.95)

"Amazing persistence" "Old school"

The Chairman liked this wine and wrote: One of the more famous names from the "fresh fruit, crisp, clean acid – has Yarra Valley, it’s a wine in the full-bodied potential." It’s got delicate oak on the nose, style. There is plenty of toasty oak, which with freshness up front that is very works well with the peach and ripe pear appealing. There are flavours of fig and flavours. The comment "old style" came some stone fruit on the palate. Keith forward. Chris Pfeiffer said it had good acid praised the "amazing, minerally while Keith called it refined. Sally thought persistence." This is a Mornington wine it had good, far reaching appeal. At its with the ability to age for a few years peak now. in bottle.

METIER´ TARRAFORD RED HILL ESTATE 2001 ($20) VINEYARD 2000 ($32.50) "Rob Jones – top scorer" "Karl Stockhausen – top scorer" Red Hill looks directly to the sea from the The name behind this label is Martin ridge that runs the length of the Peninsula. Williams, the consultant Master of Wine The cooling breezes seem to have allowed winemaker to many of ’s small this wine to develop good intensity of producers. The grapes are from the Tarraford flavours with plenty of peach and pear vineyard in the Yarra Valley. It has good sweetness to carry the oak. The wine also stone fruit flavours and is fully developed. displays extensive barrel work and focus, Both Chris Barnes and Karl scored it highly with Karl noticing some wild yeast and praised the crisp acid. Chris Pfeiffer characters. Rob praised its elegant style and noticed the acid and found ripe fruit on the complex, toasty oak. Not a wine to cellar. nose. The wine had broadening potential, so drink now.

25 ROCHFORD "E" 2001 ($24) DE BORTOLI 2002 ($25)

"Meal in a bottle" "Panel’s top pick"

This Yarra wine was described by Keith This was certainly the pick of all the wines Tulloch as a "meal in a bottle." The wine in the Panel’s eyes. The wine is ripe and shows lots of nutty, almost marzipan, bold, yet still has a lift and freshness from characters on the nose, which suggests very good natural acid. The oak is very well plenty of oak time. Karl called it "old style." handled and gave the wine complexity, but Chris Pfeiffer thought the oak was a little not too much of a ‘worked’ character. This disjointed and we wondered if it was going will age well, but it’s so good now that it’s through a development phase. The palate is hard to imagine it will get left in the cellar! still showing ample acid and a finish of In Trent’s words: "a rich, complex style, peach. A wine to drink in the short term good depth – long and savoury." for those who like powerful Chardonnays.

YARRA BURN 2001 ($18) SCORPO 2002 (NOT YET RELEASED)

"Drinkability" "A Panel favourite"

The 2001 Yarra Burn had drinkability Scorpo at Merricks on the Peninsula are written all over it. The Panel agreed that it getting plenty of press, and this wine shows will attract a broader range of Chardonnay why. The wine is lifted, with delicate lovers than most, with richness in the mid peachy aromas. There’s plenty of oak, but palate and good oak. The overall peaches it’s integrated and adds to the wine, not and cream style of this wine is very dominating it. Chris Barnes said it had appealing. Not a wine to be cellared for a great potential and the richness in the long time but made for straightforward mid-palate means there will be plenty of life enjoyment now. ahead of it. Keith praised its "generous fruit power." A Panel favourite.

DROMANA ESTATE 2001 ($29) OAKRIDGE 2002 ($23.99)

"Funky flavours" "Chris Barnes – top scorer"

This wine is from one of the oldest The cool Yarra Valley season in 2002 has Chardonnay vineyards on the Mornington produced a wine with lifted grapefruit and Peninsula. On the nose is a barrel worked melon on the nose. It has got a creamy lees, or ‘solids’ ferment character. The oak mid-palate and the toasty character from is powerful and the wine has long citrus and the French oak is evident through to the peach flavours, and good balance enjoyed finish. The fresh, natural acid in this wine by Keith. This is a wine for the lovers of the means it has a few years life in front of it. so-called funky flavours and would match Keith and Rob loved the structure and full flavoured foods. Chris Barnes gave it Gold. A Panel’s pick.

26 TUCK’S RIDGE 2002 ($27) BALGOWNIE 2002 ($22)

"Chris Pfeiffer – top scorer" "Style and complexity"

This is a powerful wine with tight acid. Balgownie Estate is better known in the It’s another from the ridge of the Peninsula, region, but now has a vineyard in and one that can age well. The characters the Yarra Valley. The style here is using of oak are there, but not too dominant. good oak to highlight the barrel work and Overall the impressions are of a clean, fresh ripe Chardonnay fruit. Complexity was a and well-balanced wine. Flavours are citrus common Tasting Panel comment, as was and quite fleshy. This could open up with the use of malolactic fermentation. All this time, but the zesty, grapefruit flavours are added up to a creamy, bigger style wine to best enjoyed now. be enjoyed now, rather than with three or four years in bottle.

MOUNT MARY 2002 ($43.50) LILLYDALE ESTATE 2002 ($18)

"Steely with opulent fruit" "Silky and generous"

The wines of Mount Mary are much The palate is what impressed the Panel discussed and sought after and this was no with this Yarra wine. The word "silky" exception. The wine doesn’t leap out at came up for the mouthfeel as well as you. However there are delicate aromas of "generous" and "soft". This is a wine made fig and the oak is underlying. It’s the palate to appeal now, and it succeeds, the structure where the wine stands out. butterscotch and peach go well together. Christian calling it "integrated". The wine It’s perhaps a little old fashioned (still a is steely and the Panel felt it needed time favourite of many) but shows well what in bottle to soften and open up. Not for we saw in many Yarra wines. the drinker who wants ‘sweet’, early drinking Chardonnay.

ROCHFORD V 2002 ($18) SHELMERDINE 2002 ($23-$25)

"Simple and refreshing" "Investment in good oak"

It should be said that a small percentage This is a new name to the Yarra and the (15%) of Macedon fruit is used in this wine investment in oak is evident. The wine to add to the majority Yarra component. has a lifted, toasty and vanilla bouquet. Perhaps this is where the citrus lift and fresh The Panel thought this wine to have some pineapple, noted by Panel members, comes peachy richness and flavours of hazelnut. from. It only appears to have a touch of oak, It’s a wine that should be drunk in the next but that works with the overall fresh year or so to retain freshness and the flavours of the wine. A simple, refreshing ‘sweetness’ of the French oak. drink, not one to gain complexity with age.

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