Ama Dablam Via Everest Base Camp Nepal | 6,856M

Ama Dablam via Everest Base Camp Nepal | 6,856m

www.360-expeditions.com Ama Dablam via Everest Base Camp | Nepal | 6,856m

Ama Dablam (6,856m) is one of the most absolutely ready will we begin our ascent iconic mountains inNepal’s Khumbu Valley. following the South West Ridge to attempt the The Matterhorn of theHimalayas , reaching its summit. summit provides an exhilarating climbing experience and a skill-honing introduction Graded Alpine Difficile this expedition involves to technical high-altitude mountaineering . every bit of skill, nerve and technique a We hear it every time we reach Namche climber can muster. Our chance of success is Bazaar, the trading village where the action improved considerably by incredible Guide starts from. ‘WHAT is that mountain!?’ That and Sherpa support and fixed lines mountain is Ama Dablam. The queen of the safeguarding the technical sections. We can Khumbu – towering, extreme, striking. One never guarantee you a summit but we can look and you’re captivated. guarantee you’ll return having experienced the mountain and this unique part of the We acclimatise by trekking to Everest Base world to the fullest. And that, in the end, is Camp and Kala Patthar, enjoying the best this what adventure is all about. amazing region has to offer before attempting the prize. Our constant companion, Ama Dablam, dominates the skyline and we’ll see the peak from all angles and grow familiar with it. Only when

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Physical - P5 Technical - T5

Superlative fitness is called for. Regular, long and Competent Alpine climbing ability. Should be intense physical training is required for comfortable on Scottish Winter III ground or preparation. Expect long days on the hill of 10-15 Alpine AD. Complete understanding and hours in testing weather conditions (especially confidence in use of your technical kit will be summit day) carrying up to 15-20kg in weight, required. and/or pulling a pulk with exceptional weight.

Please note that the grading system used is a rough guide only.

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ITINERARY

DAY 1 : Depart the UK DAY 5 : Acclimatisation Day - Namche Bazaar (3,440m) We will meet at Heathrow and set off, likely on an evening flight, for Kathmandu. Today is a rest and acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar. The Sherpa capital, Namche is a bustling village crammed with markets and traditional Sherpa houses. DAY 2 : Arrive Kathmandu We will head off on an early morning hike to the Sherpa museum from where we can see views of the majestic We arrive in Kathmandu mid-afternoon and check into peaks of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. The rest of our hotel located in the heart of Kathmandu where we are the day is for private exploration. met by an amazing blend of cultures, religions and people. Great souvenir shopping and Durbar Square with (BLD) its numerous temples and markets are nearby. During the rest of the day you will have an opportunity to settle after your flight. DAY 6 : Namche Bazaar to Phortse Thanga (3,680m) (D) We climb the Khumjung hill and descend to the east of the village down the broad valley leading to the Dudh Koshi DAY 3 : Lukla (2,800m) to Phakding (2,610m) from where the route turns north. We visit Mohang, the birthplace of the re-incarnated Lama of Rongbuk We take an early morning flight into Lukla, from where we Monastery of Tibet who is believed to have introduced begin our trek into the Khumbu region. The views from the Buddhism in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The trail plane are spectacular, with dramatic scenes of terraced descends in a series of steep switchbacks down a sandy hills across to the Himalayan giants in the distance. After slope to the Dush Koshi. We stay overnight near to the landing we meet our ground crew and begin a 3-4 hour river, in Phortse Thanga. trek to Phakding (2,610m), our spot for the night. (BLD) (BLD)

DAY 7 : Phortse Thanga to Machhermo DAY 4 : Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) (4,470m)

We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, From Phortse Thanga it is an uphill climb to Machhermo. crossing this roaring river on exciting suspension bridges We walk on a trail alongside a rhododendron forest and laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagarmatha pass through a waterfall before reaching Tongba Village. National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking We continue our uphill trek and pass through Dhole, views across to our finishing point for the day, Namche Labarma and Luza villages before reaching Machhermo. Bazaar, the gateway to the Khumbu region. There is a Chorten right before the Luza village. Throughout today’s journey we will be walking alongside (BLD) the Dudh Koshi River. Overnight in Machhermo.

(BLD)

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ITINERARY

DAY 8 : Machhermo to Gokyo (4,800m) DAY 10 : Gokyo to Thagnak (4,750m)

Today we climb Gokyo Ri. It’s a fairly demanding 3 to 4 We begin today by climbing a ridge for an excellent view hour climb, but the surrounding views across the lake and down the valley to Kangtaiga and also up towards Cho Gokyo village, overlooked by Cholatse and the Nogzumpa Oyu (8153 m). The valley now widens and we descend to Glacier, are simply spectacular. Dwarfed by panoramic the riverbank before climbing onto the terminal moraine mountains like Kusum Kanguru, Thamserku, Kangtega, of the Ngazumpa Glacier on a steep trail. Upon crossing Taboche, Cholatse, Makalu, Changtse, and Pumori, as an iron bridge over a stream, the trail levels out as it well as the towering faces of Lhotse, Nuptse and Everest, follows the valley past the first lake, known as Longpongo, we trek through the Ngazumpa Glacier before a at 4690 m. At the sight of the second lake, Taboche Tsho, mountain traverse and an easier meander into Thagnak. we become mesmerized by the shimmering turquoise Today will be a short hike with an afternoon of rest which blue sheet of water sparkling in the sun. the third lake is will set us up well for the longer hiking days and elevation linked by a surging strem. Gokyo village stands by the gain to come. third lake and Cho-Oyu Mountain as a backdrop sets an amazing spectacular view. After lunch, we explore (BLD) around the third lake, Dudh Pokhari. Overnight in Gokyo.

(BLD) DAY 11 : Thagnak to Cho La Pass (5,367m)

DAY 9 : Gokyo Valley: Acclimatisation Day One of the more challenging days of the trip, today we trek the Cho La Pass. The hike in itself is not difficult, but the terrain is steep and includes a glacier traverse on the We can spend this day taking a rest in the Gokyo Valley or eastern side. We are rewarded at the top of the pass with hike to some additional lakes – Thonak Tsho an array of prayer flags and stunning views of our and Ngozumba Tsho. destination Ama Dablam up ahead, along with Cholatse, Lobuche East and Baruntse. If we want to, we can climb a hill, also called the Scoundrel’s Viewpoint, which is located at the edge of We pass through some broken terrain before we reach Ngozumba Tsho. From here we get astounding views of Dzongla Village. The village provides great views of these Cho-Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and mountains along with the Pheriche Village far Makulu mountains. From here, we also see the Cho Oyu below. Overnight in Dzongla. base camp. Another treat for us is the view of the biggest glacier of the world- the Ngozumba Glacier. (BLD) We trek back to Gokyo and spend the night. DAY 12 : Dzongla to Lobuche (BLD)

This will be a very short trek so we have a lot time to relax and enjoy the beauty that surrounds us. We climb down from Dzongla and walk through a grassy trail while enjoying the view of Lobuche Peak. The trail curves through the wide river bed before reaching Lobuche. We can spend the rest of day taking a rest which will help us prepare for the next day’s long trek. Overnight in Lobuche.

(BLD)

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ITINERARY

DAY 13 : Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5,170m), visit DAY 16 : Rest day - Ama Dablam Base Camp Everest Base Camp (5,364m) An acclimatisation and rest day, we will have time to sort out gear ready for summit night, and we will also go over We take the trail to Everest Base Camp through the once a refresher of your mountain skills. vast Gorak Shep Lake. The walk is strenuous due to thin air in the high altitude. We pass through rocky dunes, (BLD) moraine and streams before reaching the Everest Base Camp and a sea of tents. DAY 17 : Contingency day Nuptse, Khumbuste and Pumori are the mountains we can view from the base camp. We get back to Gorak Shep for A day kept for contingency in case of bad weather or a good night’s rest. Overnight in Gorak Shep. other unforeseen delays. (BLD) (BLD)

DAY 14 : Gorak Shep to Kala Patthar (5,545m) to DAY 18 : Camp 1 (5,700m) Pherice (4,288m) The trek to Camp 1 starts out over open fields and grass From Gorak Shep we ascend the non-technical Kala ridges before crossing a large expanse of granite to Patthar (5,550m) and are rewarded for our efforts by reach the foot of the SW ridge. unbeatable views. From this lofty perch we can clearly see the summit of Mount Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama (BLD) Dablam. This is simply an amazing panorama and we’ll allow ample time to savour the rewards of your efforts. Well worth the early morning start! DAY 19 : Camp 2 (6,080m)

After returning to Gorak Shep for lunch, the afternoon is The going gets tough to Camp 2, particularly beneath the taken to descend down to Pheriche for a good night’s Grey Tower as you cross loose rock, scree, and some rest. snow. It also gets fairly exposed up here, not least the narrow shelf where the camp is located. (BLD) (BLD) DAY 15 : Pherice to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,750m) DAY 20 : Summit Ama Dablam (6,856m) and back to Camp 2 Here, the members of the team who are not continuing on to Ama Dablam will descend on to Namche Bazaar and From Camp 2 the slope is steep, it’s going to be cold, then to Lukla. windy and exposed. We stay attached to fixed ropes as we climb, hopefully reaching the summit at dawn where For the rest of us, we will trek through to our comfortable the views are simply outstanding. base camp at Ama Dablam, ready for our summit attempt of this amazing peak. (BLD) (BLD)

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ITINERARY

DAY 21 : Ama Dablam Base Camp DAY 25 : Kathmandu

This is a day to explore Kathmandu a little more, we build Back to Base Camp and pack up this day into the program in the event that the flight was not able to leave Lukla the previous day. This can happen (BLD) due to poor weather grounding the planes.

(B) DAY 22 : Namche Bazaar

Back down to Namche which will feel after all our time in DAY 26 : Depart Nepal the hill like a booming city. Get ready for all those luxuries you may have missed. Flight to UK.

(BLD)

DAY 23 : Lukla

Our last day on the trail, we hike from Namche to Lukla. We stay in Lukla and enjoy a welcome beer.

(BLD)

DAY 24 : Kathmandu

The scenic morning flight back to Kathmandu gives us one last chance to say farewell to the mountains. We will have the day to explore, go shopping, visit the palaces and markets. An enduring favourite destination is the Monkey Temple, a Buddhist temple situated on a small hill that offers panoramic views of the city. Or perhaps we will join the thousands of Hindus who venture to the Pashupatinath temple, one of the most famous Hindu temples in Nepal; we will also visit the most famous Shiva temple in Asia. In the evening we will head out for a 3-course celebration meal at the Roadhouse.

(BD)

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KIT LIST

Bags & Packs Heavy plastic bags

Kit bag For water / dust proofing luggage carried by porters A 120-140L duffel bag to transport kit. A duffel bag is a strong, soft, weather resistant bag Combination padlock without wheels but with functional straps for carrying. Suitcases and wheeled bags are not Must fit through zips (i.e.small) suitable Sleeping Gear Rucksack 5 Season sleeping bag A 70+litre rucksack . This needs to be big as you will be ferrying bulky items such as sleeping 5-season with a comfort rating to -25C is mats and sleeping bags between camps. Store essential. Down is lighter but more expensive in the bottom of your Kit bag/ Hold/ Porter than synthetic and ratings vary between luggage. manufacturers

Daysack Sleeping bag compression sack

A 45-55L rucksack. For hand luggage on the Sleeping bag liner flight to Nepal; to store additional items and for the trekking to BC. Silk is best for keeping the bag clean and you a little warmer Waterproof rucksack cover Thermarest To protect rucksack from rain Bivvy bag Dry stuffsacks Headwear Nylon rolltop bags that keep fresh clothing and other important items like passports and iPods Wide brimmed hat dry in the event of a total downpour that seeps into your kitbag. Good for quarantining old Keeps the sun off exposed areas like ears and socks. Please note that many countries are now the nape of the neck banning plastic bags. We would always advise buying re-usable nylon rolltop bags for keeping Warm headgear your kit dry (and sustainability). This can be a warm hat, beanie, balaclava, anything to reduce the heat loss from your head

Power stretch balaclava

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KIT LIST

Sunblock Base layer x 2

Factor 40 minimum This is the layer closest to the skin and its principal function is to draw (wick) moisture and Lip salve sweat away from the skin. You can also get thermal base layers for use at higher altitudes Sun cream will not work on your lips and they that provide an additional insulative layer while are very susceptible to burn without proper still drawing sweat during times of high exertion protection Thermal top x 2 Sunglasses To keep you warm at colder temperatures. Must provide coverage on the sides. Julbo is Merino is ideal our preferred supplier Liner gloves Goggles A thinner pair that fit under. Necessary for climbing above C2 and summit day Down mitts

Upper Body Essential for higher altitudes to be worn with a liner glove underneath Light insulated jacket Gloves A lighter jacket such as a Primaloft or lightweight down which can be worn at lower to Liners and heavier ski gloves with leather palm mid altitudes is a great addition to your kit protection offering greater flexibility with layering Hand warmers Waterproof shell jacket Hand warmers for summit day Down jacket Lower Body Expedition quality and with high level of down fill Waterproof shell trousers

Soft Shell Down trousers

These should be windproof (not all are) and To be combined with down jacket or full down insulative. They are mostly made of soft climbing suit polyester and sometimes resemble a neoprene finish which makes them very mobile and comfortable to wear. While offering a degree of weather repellence, they are not waterproof

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KIT LIST

Outer layer / soft shell trousers Gaiters

Climbing trousers for lower on the mountain. To protect the tops of your footwear from harsh Fleece lined Sallopettes ideal conditions and to provide some added insulation Thermal leggings High altitude boots Merino is ideal These boots are double or triple layered to offer Trekking trousers the best insulation and the warmest feet up high. Either La Sportiva G2 SMs, Scarpa These tend to be polyester so they dry quickly Phantom 6000s, La Sportiva Spantiks or 8,000m after a shower and weigh little in your pack. boots are suitable. Make sure you can fit 2 pairs Consider perhaps a pair with detachable lower of socks for added warmth with room to wiggle legs as an alternative to shorts your toes.

Underwear Technical Equipment

Merino or wicking material, not cotton. How Crampons many pairs you take is entirely up to you 12 points. Grivel Feet Crampon antiball plates Boots / approach shoes Long heavy duty zip ties x 4 Trekking socks x 4 Light weight harness Start with lighter socks lower down, working up to thicker pairs for higher up as it gets colder. We recommend Petzl Some people like a clean pair every day, others are happy to change every other day – that’s a Light weight figure of eight personal choice Belay plate Sandals Of your choice Walking sandals with a good grip are a good choice Jumars

Warm mountaineering socks x 3 Available for hire, a 2nd jumar is highly recommended Keep one clean pair handy for the summit attempt Locking karabiners x 5

Prusiks

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KIT LIST

Dynamic cord Wet wipes

4m length of 9mm dynamic cord Preferably biodegradable, these are great for washing when modern shower facilities become Sling (120cm) a thing of the past

120cm sling Foot powder

Helmet Alcohol gel

Ice axe A must have for good camp hygiene

Technical rather than walking ice-axe Multi vitamins

Hydration Medications

Water bottles Personal first aid kit

2x 1L water bottles The 360 med kits are designed to be used in emergencies and akin to an A&E rather than a Water purification pharmacy on Expeditions so please come prepared with useful meds for yourself such as Although generally all water is boiled some painkillers (Ibuprofen if you can take it and a prefer to double up and add purification tabs as Paracetamol) plus blister plasters, plasters, well. Always good to have in your bag antiseptic, rehydration sachets and any muscle rubs you wish to use. Toiletries Personal medication Wash kit Keep this in your daysack Keep it simple on the mountain. Essentials are toothbrush, toothpaste and deodorant. Miscellaneous Moisturiser is advisable, everything else is a luxury! Head torch

Travel towel We recommend Petzl head torches. Bring spare batteries. Travel towels from the likes of Lifesystems are perfect Multi-tool

Watch with alarm

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KIT LIST

Trekking poles Documentation

These tend to be a personal preference but help Passport with your stability and can dampen the pressure on the knees coming down hill Don’t forget this! Your passport should have at least 6 months validity. With your passport Entertainment expiry date at least six months after the final day of travel. iPod, book, Kindle etc. Copy of passport Camera Just in case Bring plenty of spare batteries and memory cards Passport photos x 4

Solar Charger We need these to obtain your climbing and trekking permits These are useful to keep electricals charged but are a luxury rather than a necessity Visa

Old mobile phone Granted upon arrival (cost: $50 USD for 1 month stay, $90 USD for 3 month stay; subject to You can buy a SIM card out there change, will need one of your passport photos to staple to your visa application form upon Insulated mug arrival)

Plastic insulated mug Dental check up

Plastic bowl/ Tupperware box We recommend you have a dental check-up before your trip. New fillings can be an issue at Plastic spoon altitude if there is an air pocket left in the gap

Pee bottle (+ optional Shewee for the girls!)

A good idea if you are storm bound at higher camps. A 1ltr Nalgene bottle is a good option but do make sure you label it as your pee bottle!!

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KIT LIST

Travel insurance

Copy of own travel insurance details. And relevant contact numbers. We have a partnership with True Traveller and would recommend that you contact them when looking for travel insurance for your trip with 360. However, it is vital that you ensure that the insurance cover they offer is suitable for you, taking your personal circumstances (items to be insured, cancellation cover, medical history) into account. Many other insurance providers are available and we do recommend that you shop around to get the best cover for you on the expedition you are undertaking. It is your responsibility to ensure that you have the appropriate insurance for your intended trip. To include medical evacuation and coverage up to the maximum altitude of this trip.

Money

For tipping EBC porters. (approx: $100 USD p/p) For summit bonus for your climbing Sherpa (approx: $300 – $500 p/p)

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FAQ'S

Guides Food and Water

Who is the guiding team composed of (How Where does water come from on the mountain? many guides? Climber to guide ratio?) Water comes from ice. Above Base Camp we Our 360 guides are some of the most use local snow drifts and snow fields to collect experienced in the business. They spend many ice and then melt this to water. This is a labour months a year climbing and trekking in the and fuel intensive job. We boil this snow/ice Himalaya. They have established a close immediately to make soups and hot drinks. rapport with our ground crew and run a very Another round of ice is boiled to produce water enjoyable expedition. for the next day’s use.

We have a 2:1 ratio when climbing on the mountain. Our 6 person teams depart with one How often is fresh water available for 360 expedition guide. This ratio also includes replenishing during the day? Sherpa guides. Before leaving camp in the morning you will fill Generally your accompanying 360 leader will be your water bottles or camel bladder. If this runs in charge of the expedition and he or she will be low you will have ample more water to replace assisted by the Sherpa Guides. Sometimes it with. For most walking days water can be climbers prefer to climb without Sherpa guides replenished at the evening’s campsite. and the need for porters. This option is naturally the climbers decision and depending on their level of experience.

Where do I meet my guides?

There are a number of options surrounding the Ama Dablam climb. Depending on where you are joining the expedition depends on where you will meet your 360 guide. Some clients come acclimatised and others join us in Kathmandu and head out on Mera Peak or Everest BC before heading onto Ama Dablam. Naturally we will talk through all options with you before you join.

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FAQ'S

What will the meals on the expedition be like? Accommodation

All meals on the mountain are of the highest Will I have to share a tent on this expedition? possible standards. In fact considering that our 360 expedition guides have to produce the best At the Base Camp of Ama Dablam each climber possible meals in a wilderness setting using only will have their own tent. Climbers will be the most basic of facilities (kerosene stoves) the acclimitised from having trekked to EBC or meals they produce are nothing short of having climbed on a nearby 6,000m trekking miracle. The meals are always fresh, nutritious peak. This arrangement allows climbers to and varied. We ensure that dietary preferences properly relax and enjoy a bit of comfort before are always met and that the best local the ascent begins. ingredients are used. Most altitude related symptoms manifest The underlying aim is to provide balanced themselves at night. We therefore only have tent nutritional meals packed with carbohydrates to sharing above Base Camp. Also camping refuel hungry bodies and to replenish stores for options at C2 and C3 are very limited and the next day of activity. sometimes three climbers might be sharing one tent. On top of well balanced meals clients are provided with coffee, tea and snacks upon Tent share is always organised according to arrival into camp. The morning wake-up call is similar sex and where possible age groups. usually accompanied with a cup of tea or coffee Obviously if you are climbing this mountain in your tent. with a friend or partner then share tents with them. If you have joined the team by yourself Clients are invited to bring along any of their then it is highly likely that you will be sharing a favourite snacks and goodie bags from home or tent with your pre-assigned room buddy unless Kathmandu as they are expensive to buy at prior arrangements have been made. Base Camp. Concentrate on high energy food- stuffs such as Jelly babies etc to give you that little boost on an arduous day.

Meals at Base Camp will include fresh fruits and vegetables. Lightweight nutritious foods are prepared higher on the mountain.

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FAQ'S

Health and Safety What vaccinations do I need?

You advocate taking a small first aid kit, what The following vaccinations are recommended: should it have in it? Hepatitis A We advocate a little bit of self-help on the climb. Typhoid If you have a blister developing, for example, Diphtheria then please stop, take off your boot and treat it Tetanus before it becomes a problem. Polio

We would recommend your own first aid kit This list is not absolute and it is important you should contain: should see your GP, surgery or travel clinic for latest recommendations and to ensure you are Diamox, or other high-altitude drug, enough for up to date on necessary vaccinations. the duration of the expedition; a basic blister kit, plasters, antiseptic, sun protection, your own personal medication (your luggage might not get to camp before you and so you may not be able to take your medicine according to the regime you are used to), basic pain relief (paracetamol/aspirin/ibuprofen,) and a personal course of antibiotics – two different types are preferable, as back up. Foot powder in your socks every morning is great for preventing blisters.

Generally, the best approach to take when packing your first aid kit is to include such basic medications as if you would on a family or personal holiday.

Your 360 expedition guide will carry a very comprehensive first aid kit that contains a wide range of supplies and medications. They are fully trained to use whatever is needed for any emergency that may arise. We advocate keeping this in mind when packing your own first aid supplies and keeping your own first aid kit as compact and light as possible.

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FAQ'S

Am I likely to suffer from altitude sickness on What can I do to help prevent AMS? this expedition? In most cases AMS can be avoided by the There are different types of altitude sickness. following: drink plenty of water, walk slowly, Although our acclimatisation regime ensures stay warm and eat well – and listen and talk to that everybody enjoys the best possible chance your guides. of getting high on the mountain, altitude related problems can happen. The most common of this We recommend that you familiarise yourself is high altitude sickness (AMS – Acute Mountain with the various effects that altitude can cause. Sickness). During your pre-climb briefing, we will describe Symptoms for this can include headaches, altitude sickness to you in detail, and advise you nausea and vomiting. how to cope with it.

This sounds quite dramatic but generally this is The most important thing is not to fear it, but to just the process your body naturally goes respect it and to know how to deal with it and through to adjust to the higher altitudes and the more importantly tell your guides how you feel. reduced partial pressure of the atmosphere. For Our guides have seen every condition that the some people the acclimatisation process takes a mountain produces, and they will always know little longer than others. For our guides this is all how to deal with problems. part and parcel of ascending a 6,000m peak and, although we assess each client’s personal situation carefully, we also further consider the Is there a risk of getting HACE (High Altitude compounding effects of dehydration brought on Cerebral Edema) and HAPE (High Altitude by excessive vomiting and loss of appetite. Pulmonary Edema) on the mountain?

AMS might sound frightening but our guides are HACE and HAPE rarely occur on Ama Dablam fully trained (and highly experienced) in helping and our guides are fully trained in recognition of relieve your personal symptoms and providing the onset of these problems and will deal with advice on how to best proceed. them at the first sign of their development.

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FAQ'S

Should I bring Diamox on the expedition with Should I take Diamox? me? It is far preferable to take Diamox if and when We recommend you come armed with a course needed during the course of the expedition. If of Diamox on this expedition, though we do not you are already taking it and then start having recommend that take you these as a altitude related problems you are left with few prophylactic during the trek or climb. We view options but to descend to a more comfortable Diamox as a treatment drug rather than a altitude which sadly often means that the preventative medicine. Most adventure medics summit is not attainable. give similar advice, however we do appreciate this can be confusing, as many GPs (who aren’t Furthermore, Diamox is a diuretic, meaning you necessarily mountaineers) do suggest taking it will have to drink a lot of fluid to prevent as a prophylactic. dehydration. Of course, the upshot of this is you’ll have to pee more which means you’ll Here at 360 we pride ourselves on designing all probably be having to get up more in the night our itineraries with acclimatisation front and and take cover behind rocks during the day. centre and this expedition has been carefully Another quite common side-effect is that it can designed to allow for your body to adjust to the cause your extremities to “buzz and tingle” altitude gradually, safely and comfortably. including your fingers, toes and lips which can However, if you find that you are still having feel quite unsettling. Other side-effects can problems adjusting to the altitude (see our FAQ include dizziness and light headedness with loss on Altitude Sickness) then your expedition of appetite, nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. leader or medic will recommend the correct Although all these side-effects are manageable course of action regarding taking Diamox. when you have symptoms of altitude sickness, we personally believe it is counter-intuitive to take it unless necessary.

Of course, it is totally up to you, this is just our recommendation and we’re not doctors. If you do decide to take Diamox on the advice of your doctor then please do let your leader know in situ so they are aware of this. We also suggest you take the drug for a couple of days a few weeks before travelling so you can experience the symptoms before taking them during the trek.

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FAQ'S

What happens if I need to leave the expedition Kit early? How much will my pack weigh during the climb? If a climber needs to leave early arrangements can be made with the assistance our 360 Guide. A rucksack is worn by the climber at all times. Additional costs (transport, hotels flights etc.) During the trek into Base Camp and for the will be incurred by the climber but our guides short climbs around the peak the content of the will be able to assist in every detail of your rucksack should include: a fleece (when taking departure. breaks or the weather changes) a full set (top and bottom) of waterproofs, sufficient water for the day, snacks, camera, personal medication What happens if there is a problem on the and a head torch. mountain? Your day to day rucksack should weigh no more All our guides are in communication with each than 3 – 4 kg and a rucksack of around 30 – 40 other by radio. In the vast majority of cases of L capacity will more than suffice. This rucksack emergency rescue the problems can be can be filled to the brim with extra stuff when attributed to slow acclimatisation or altitude you check in at the airport. Our guides for and if so the solution is immediate descent to instance put their down jackets or a thick fleece lower altitudes. Our 360 guide and local crew and a pair of mountain socks in this bag so as to are very experienced in dealing with any free up space in their hold luggage. problems that may arise. Our guides are either doctors or are qualified with the highest Once the load carrying between camps starts standard of wilderness first aid qualifications your load weight will increase to around 15kg. and can handle any emergency to the highest For these carries the focus is on moving up as level of competency without assistance if many supplies to the higher camps as possible necessary. and your personal equipment may be reduced to just a head torch and Gortex jacket. Once the higher camp has been reached we secure a decent spot to store our provisions and return virtually weightless back down to sleep at the lower camp.

It is important that your rucksacks have an adjustable waist belt to transfer the weight of your daily load onto your hips and from here onto your legs (your strongest muscles) to do most of the carrying. Another handy feature would be a compartment in which to fit a Platypus/Camelbak or water bladder. Our initial hold luggage should be around 22 – 25kg.

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FAQ'S

What gear will I need? What clothing should I wear on Ama Dablam?

Please review the equipment list. While all items Our guides usually start the trek wearing long, are required there may be times when some of lightweight trekking trousers and wicking (non- the items on the gear list may not be used (such cotton) shirts. Long trousers are recommended as warm weather or changing conditions). The as a deterrent to insects and to act as sun gear lists are created by the guides so that protection. climbers are prepared to summit in any conditions. Ensure that you apply sun cream frequently, or buy a once a day product such as P20 if you’re The guides will check your equipment whilst in not very good at remembering to apply it. Sun Kathmandu or Base Camp (if joining from glasses are worn for most of the trek in as well another expedition) and will advise as to what is as suitable sunhats. suitable or not. A quick trip to the local gear shops may be needed to buy or rent the last The prevailing conditions on the trek will dictate essential items. what you will wear: if it is cold when you leave the camp in the morning then wear your fleece. As things warm up take advantage of the zipper system which most trekking clothing have and open and close the zips to adjust to your own preferred temperature. If you get too warm then take a layer off.

Waterproofs are needed on hand at all times. It is not unusual to be caught in an afternoon snowstorm anywhere on the mountain. Waterproofs should be Gortex material or similar.

Over the top of your clothing you will wear a climbing harness and you will be attached to a rope when conditions dictate.

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FAQ'S

What clothing should I wear on the mountain What is the best type of footwear to use for the during Summit day? trek to the Base Camp? And above Base Camp?

On summit day it gets cold and temperatures of Plastic boots are essential for climbing 6,000m -20C are not unusual and -30 in extremes. peaks. You will only be using your plastic boots for the mountain phase of this climb. You will Typically our guides wear 2 sets of base layers not be wearing them on the trek to the Base (long johns), a thick fleece layer (top and Camp nor for when doing the load carrying as bottom) and then on the legs insulated climbing high as Camp 1. Once we start our ascent salopettes. On the upper torso the same layers properly we will leave Camp 1 wearing plastic plus a down jacket are worn. As the wind picks boots. up near the summit ridge our guides will put on their wind proof layer to ward off the windchill. These boots should be the double boot (with a On their hands they’ll wear a thin layer of fleece soft inner and hard plastic shell) the basic working gloves with a thicker set of “ski gloves” model would be Scarpa Vega’s, Phantom 8000 or mittens over the top. or La Sportiva Spantiks. Temperatures high up the mountain are usually well below -20 and Alternatively in Autumn conditions a similar set only plastic boots can withstand such conditions. of base layers can be worn under a full down Ensure that you have tried the boots on before suit. The suit is usually only worn on the actual you leave home and that you can wear a thin summit day. and a thick pair of socks in them and still be able to wriggle your toes, (for adequate On summit day our guides’ heads are covered circulation). by a thermal beanie hat or a thick balaclava and the hood of their down jackets. On their Crampons are worn when there has been lots of feet the guides wear one pair of thin socks and snowfall above Camp 2 and sometimes even one pair of thick inside their double boots. above Camp 1. Your crampons are preferably of the easy “heel clip” variety (rather than the Guides will also wear snow goggles on summit strap systems which are fiddly). It is necessary day. Waterproofs are used as an invaluable to use specialist technical climbing crampons as wind shield to protect you from windchill when a standard. strong wind blows. Trekking boots should be sturdy, waterproof, insulated against cold temperatures and offer adequate ankle support. In addition it is highly recommended that your boots are well worn in to prevent the formation of blisters. A range of suitable boots are on the market and further advice as to which brand names are available can be found online or at your local gear store.

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FAQ'S

Are down jackets necessary? How warm does my sleeping bag need to be?

They are essential and are worth their weight in Sleeping bags should be rated within the -20C gold on summit day. Our guides wear them on comfort zone. From the first camp upwards it is all evenings from the first camp up. We not unusual to experience frosty nights and a recommend a down jacket with at least 800 good night’s sleep is important to giving you the grams of down fill. best chance to climb this mountain. And ensure you get a sleeping bag that has this temperature rating at this comfort zone rather than as its extreme zone.

Our guides take sleeping bags rated to well below -20C to ensure that they are warm at night. A four season sleeping bag can be enhanced by using an inner silk or fleece bag (or similar). The idea is to be as comfortable and warm as possible for the night and henceforth to ensure plenty of sleep for the arduous days ahead. Some climbers have found a “Bivouac bag” useful to increase the warmth of their bag. It is important to remember that down sleeping bags work by your own body heating the down that’s inside the bag.

Once you have warmed up the bag its down will retain the heat and ensure that you sleep at a temperature that’s your own body temperature. For best results it is best to wear as little as possible when inside your sleeping bag. Our guides will often only wear a set of thermals in their bag. It is important for the bag to trap the heat. By wearing multiple layers of clothing your clothing will trap this heat and your bag will not function properly.

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FAQ'S

Is it possible to rent equipment before I go? The Climb

It is possible from our local ground crew but we How does this expedition differ from other advocate the use of personal equipment expeditions 360 offers: whenever possible. This is particular important for the use of boots and high altitude clothing. Ama Dablam is one of the most technically demanding of all our expeditions. It is also seen as the most exposed due to its free standing What clothing is suitable for when we come peak and the location of the 3 camps which are back from the mountain? on its south west ridge. Ama Dablam is regarded as one of the most beautiful Casual dress is recommended for Kathmandu. mountains in the world. It offers some Daytime temperatures are usually warm and breathtaking summit views from the route up shorts and t-shirts are fine. Evenings are which include Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. generally cooler and a light fleece is recommended. A bag containing fresh clothes can be left in hotel storage ready for when you Can we get porters to help carry loads if we come back. want them?

Porters are available to carry loads from Base How much kit can I bring with me? Camp up to Camp three and also to carry stuff down from camps. Sometimes climbers choose Please bear in mind that the Kathmandu-Lukla to employ one porter between two, reducing the flight has a 15kg baggage allowance, excluding weight they have to carry by 10kg to make life a all hardgear. easier. 360 Expeditions will employ porters to assist in carrying loads down the mountain. This All your mountain hardwear will be transported is done especially to bring down toilet and in blue barrels separately ahead of you by the camping waste. In most cases porters are highly porter team. skilled Sherpa guides who will be climbing alongside you and assist in climbing the harder sections.

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FAQ'S

What happens to toilet waste? How fit do I need to be for this expedition?

All toilet waste is bagged and tagged in Climbers are expected to be in good physical especially allocated “poo bags”. We are condition. The better your physical shape the required to carry down all toilet waste which is more you will be able to handle the demands of disposed of at Base Camp. Generally we carry climbing the peak. This expedition is more the waste down in double plastic bags and early arduous and physically demanding then other in the morning when it is still frozen. A toilet tent 360 expeditions as load carrying is done by the with a basic sit down toilet is set up at our climbers themselves. Having a good level of mountain campsites. fitness will allow you to enjoy the expedition far more and increase your chances of reaching the summit. Summit day can be up to 16 hours long. How long is summit day?

Summit day will start in the early hours of the How many climbers are on this expedition? morning. From Camp 3 we head straight for the summit but there are some very steep (40+ The most that we are prepared to take on an degree) snow-ice sections. We have to then expedition of this magnitude is 6 people. navigate past the Dablam (a notorious ice and snow section) and climb to the snow-capped summit. We then return late afternoon. Can I contact the others on the climb? How about the guide?

What is the skill level of this climb? You can always call our offices and one of guides will contact you. Generally about one Ama Dablam is a technical climb. You should be month before your trip departure we mail a list comfortable ascending and descending on fixed of other team members to you. lines, using crampons and ice axes. It is recommended that climbers have past rock and steep snow climbing experience on exposed terrain. To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. It is a huge advantage for climbers to be able to compentently climb Scottish 3 and/or French AD+ alpine routes. The terrain on Ama Dablam is exposed and steep and being comfortable climbing in this type of terrain will make progress much easier.

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FAQ'S

The Weather What if I arrive early or depart late? Can you arrange extra nights’ lodging? Is there a single How cold can it get? room option for this expedition?

The temperature at the top of the mountain can We are happy to make any arrangements vary widely. Sometimes it is only a degree or scheduled outside of the trek dates: these may two below freezing, but climbers should be include personalised tours, extra hotel rooms, prepared for possible temperatures as low as private airport pick-ups or arranging private -30 Celsius, especially in conjunction with wind rooms. Please indicate that your requirements chill. on your booking form and we will contact you for the relevant arrangements. Low down on the mountain you can expect cold mornings (usually frosty). An afternoon snowstorm is not unusual at the lower altitudes. Insurance

Do I need special insurance for the trip? What is the best season to climb / which dates will have the most chance for success? You must carry individual travel insurance to take part in the expedition. We cannot take you Spring and autumn are the best times to climb on the mountain without proof of insurance. as the weather and conditions are most favourable. On Ama Dablam autumn is It is your responsibility to ensure that you have particularly good as this time enjoys a lot less the appropriate insurance for your intended snowfall than springtime. Late autumn trip. To include medical evacuation and (November/December) is generally colder coverage up to the maximum altitude of this clearer and far more stable. trip.

Your insurance details are requested on the Travel booking form, however this can be arranged at a later date. 360 Expeditions will be requesting Do I need to book my own flights to Nepal? your insurance details 8 weeks before your departure. 360 Expeditions will be booking flights on your behalf. We provide confirmation of flight times and departure terminal approximately eight weeks before your departure date. Please be aware that flight schedules are subject to change. Please ensure that you have checked flight details before setting out for your flight.

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FAQ'S

Entry into Country Training

Are there any entry or visa requirements? Any tips on how a climber can maximize their chances of success? All foreigners, except Indians, must have a visa. Nepali embassies and consulates overseas issue The 360 expedition training programs have visas with no fuss. You can also get one on the been devised to be expedition specific. Use spot when you arrive in Nepal, at Kathmandu these as a guide but also feel free to contact us Airport. All tourist visas are multiple entry as for individual advice on how to incorporate the standard. A Nepali visa is valid for entry for best fitness program with your own lifestyle. three to six months from the date of issue. Your High altitude mountaineering is about slack passport must have at least six months of days of low activity followed by long days where validity. every grain of stamina you have is called upon and every ounce of determination you process is necessary to reach your goal.

The essential idea in order to prepare for a mountain such as Ama Dablam is to increase the intensity of the exercise you do by small increments over 4 to 6 months before you leave for the expedition. Concentrate on cardiovascular work-outs during the initial weeks by taking short runs when time allows and try to spend at least 2 weekends a month going on long duration walks (longer than 6 hrs) carrying a rucksack of around 15kg in hilly terrain if possible. As you get stronger increase this rate of exercise and the duration by walking every weekend and running 5km every second day, for example.

A focused regime will not only prepare your body to carry minor loads but will harden your body against the big days on the mountain itself. In addition the weekend walks will help break in your boots and get you used to your equipment.In combination this will pay dividends when you reach Base Camp because even though you can’t train for altitude your body will be ready for arduous days and you will be familiar with how to best use your equipment, both adding to you enjoying and appreciating the mountain all the more.

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FAQ'S

Finance How much do we tip our local crew?

When is the money due for this expedition? Our local crew work extremely hard to assure What kind of payment do you accept? that your expedition runs well. Although tipping is not compulsory once someone sees the hard Generally deposits are due when you book as work the crew provides tipping seems the least we need in turn to book the international flights one can do to say thank you. As a general rule well in advance. The full amount should be paid we suggest around $150 per client for the entire four months prior to departure. However having local crew to be shared amongst them. With said that, our aim is to get you to the top of this that, a summit bonus of between $300 – $500 mountain and we understand that personal for the Sherpa Guide that accompanies you financial situations can vary. Please contact our personally for your ascent. Tipping the 360 friendly office crew to discuss a suitable Guide is at to your discretion. payment plan should you find raising the funds to be difficult. We have been in your shoes after all and go by the motto of where there’s a will Money – how easy is it to change money? there’s a way. The Nepali rupee (Rs) is divided into 100 paisa (p). Except in Solu Khumbu and on the What is your cancellation policy? What is your Annapurna treks, changing foreign money is refund policy? likely to be very difficult if not impossible. Bring enough money for the whole trek and don’t Please read 360 expeditions terms and count on being able to change Rs 1000 notes conditions careful before you depart. 360 except in Namche Bazaar and Jomsom. Away expeditions highly recommends trip cancellation from major centres, changing a 1,000Rs note insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature can be very difficult, so it is always a good idea and heavy costs of government and operator to keep a stash of small denomination notes. permits 360 expeditions must adhere to a stringent refund policy. Even in Kathmandu, many small businesses, especially rickshaw and taxi drivers, simply don’t have sufficient spare money to allow them the luxury of carrying masses of change.

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FAQ'S

What additional spending money will we need?

The amount of money you will need depends on how many presents you wish to buy or how much you wish to drink when you come off the hill.

As a basic rule of thumb $400 USD should be more than adequate for any post expedition spending. The only cash you’ll need to consider taking with you on the mountain is the local crew tips. (See tipping section above.) And for any additional snacks and soft drinks you wish to purchase from the Base Camp facilities. Additional supplies can be quite expensive though as all this is brought in by mules.

Electronics

Is there mobile phone reception on the climb?

In Nepal telephones and internet access are readily available in most towns. Our guides will carry satellite phones in the mountains. The quality of the reception varies from location to location but is generally poor on the mountain.

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TRAINING PROGRAM

To begin 6 months prior to the expedition where MONTH 1 possible. OPT 1 OPT 2

1. CVS: Cardiovascular exercise which is low impact 2 x 30 mins weekday walk 1 x 30 mins weekday walk such as swimming, cycling, cross trainer, rowing. 1 x 1 hour weekend walk 2 x 1 hour weekend walk 1 x 10 mins CVS 1 x 10 mins CVS 2. Weekend walk should be done over undulating terrain. Only a light rucksack needs to be carried. MONTH 2

3. For specific exercises it is worth doing static OPT 1 OPT 2 squats and heel raises on a regular basis to improve leg muscles prior to the trip. Static squats 2 x 45 mins weekday walk 1 x 45 mins weekday walk 1 x 2 hours weekend walk 2 x 2 hours weekend walk are especially useful to help protect the knees. 2 x 10 mins CVS 2 x 10 mins CVS Please remember that it is still important to have a well balanced workout using a variety of muscle groups. MONTH 3

4. It is worth winding down and resting in the week OPT 1 OPT 2 leading up to the trip, doing several light walks to 2 x 45 mins weekday walk 1 x 45 mins weekday walk keep things going. 1 x 2 hours weekend walk 2 x 2 hours weekend walk 2 x 10 mins CVS 2 x 10 mins CVS 5. When walking going at a pace of a brisk walk with a light sweat and enough to feel breathless is MONTH 4 recommended OPT 1 OPT 2 6. During the program, rather than step up 3 x 1 hour weekday walk 2 x 1 hour weekday walk suddenly each month (example, going for 3 one 1 x 4 hours weekend walk 2 x 4 hours weekend walk hour walks each week during the weekdays in April 3 x 15 mins CVS 3 x 15 mins CVS to 3 one and half hour walks suddenly in May) it is better to build up gradually each week so there isn't a large transition (example, going for 3 one MONTH 5 hour walks during week 1 in April, going for 3 one OPT 1 OPT 2 hour and ten minute walks during week 2 in April, going for 3 one hour and fifteen minute walks 3 x 1.5 hours weekday walk 2 x 1.5 hours weekday walk during week 3 in April, going for 3 one hour and 1 x 5 hours weekend walk 2 x 5 hours weekend walk 3 x 20 - 25 mins CVS 3 x 20 - 25 mins CVS twenty minute walks during week 4 in April)

6. It is important you seek medical advice prior to MONTH 6 starting any training program, especially if you are not used to regular physical exertion OPT 1 OPT 2 3 x 2 hours weekday walk 2 x 3 hours weekday walk All the best with your training! 1 x 6 hours weekend walk 2 x 6 hours weekend walk 3 x 30 mins CVS 3 x 30 mins CVS

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Dream it. Plan it. Live it.

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