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Aldabra Atoll, a Unesco World Heritage marine site in the Seychelles, is the world’s largest raised atoll. Its unique ecosystem evolved in near isolation for 125,000 years

The atoll is located in the Indian Ocean.

SPOTLIGHT | An isolated sanctuary Aldabra Atoll: ‘Wonder of nature, given to humanity by the people of Seychelles’ Annual meeting in Seville ldabra Atoll is a windswept, unwel- breakers that churn in and out of its vast la- the few places where nature is not com- important tourist destination. Tourist reven- Seychelles’s people and government, The 33rd Session of Unesco’s coming crumb of land, floating in open goon twice daily. Some visitors never even promised or affected by humans. She ues and entry fees are used by the SIF, whose environmental record, Vejarano World Heritage Committee A ocean far from anywhere and see the island. The seas may be too rough notes: ‘‘The ecosystem is still intact, and which also manages the Vallée de Mai, to says, is admirable. ‘‘They have environment- NATURA Meeting takes place in Seville,

covered with razor-sharp limestone and pet- to view anything but dunes and surf. one can experience the feeling of awhole cover the cost of maintaining Aldabra. The ally aware people and programs, and the FOTO Spain, on June 22-30. This rified coral. It has no airstrip or fresh water, Aldabra’s natural fortifications have pro- system, not only a handful of species in an two sites’ survival are intimately linked. ‘‘This government is behind them,’’ says Vejarano. / intergovernmental annual event, but it is among the greatest intact wildlife tected it from people; the little there is to ex- otherwise degraded or heavily managed arrangement is practical,’’ says Marc Patry, ‘‘Their leaders realize they belong to an inter- which convenes nearly 1,000 sanctuaries in the world. ploit has also helped preserve it. During the area. One can almost feel the interactions a Unesco program specialist. ‘‘It ensures national community and are guardians of people, is built around two main Located in the archipelago of the 1960s, the U.K. government wanted to build there as they happen.’’ that Aldabra’s management costs are something they gave to mankind 30 years ALDABRA themes: nomination of new World

Seychelles in the Indian Ocean, northeast of a military base, but growing awareness in The atoll has three different marine envir- covered. But it’s risky. Should something ago. They are Aldabra’s trustees. They’re TEAM Heritage sites, and review of the Madagascar, Aldabra is the world’s largest the scientific community onments: its vast lagoon, happen to the tourism industry, or should proud of that and take their responsibility state of conservation of sites raised atoll. Its ecosystem is unique, having convinced the government Aldabra Atoll is home the channels connecting the Vallée de Mai no longer be an important seriously.’’ This awareness, he says, has be- already listed, including reports evolved in near isolation for 125,000 years. to look elsewhere; it eventu- the lagoon with the Indian destination, the whole model could fall come part of the Seychelles’s culture. on 150 World Heritage sites. Aldabra is one of the last natural environ- ally decided to establish a to more than 100,000 Ocean, and the outer reefs apart.’’ The SIF, aware of this, is seeking At one end of the atoll, abronze plaque, EXPEDITION Review of the year’s activities, ments still dominated by reptiles (the giant base in Diego Garcia. giant tortoises along the atoll. These coral ways to diversify financing and reduce standing on fossilized coral, reads: ‘‘Aldabra, budget issues and future projects tortoise), and it has the planet’s largest pop- The atoll is kept closed reefs are home to sea costs: renewable energy for Aldabra is one wonder of nature, given to humanity by the are also on the agenda. Chaired ulation of them (more than 100,000). because environmental organizations — creatures of all varieties: dolphins, sharks, possibility, notes Fleischer-Dogley. people of Seychelles.’’ Vejarano says: ‘‘Of- by María Jesús San Segundo, Aldabra and the Galapágos Islands are the Unesco’s World Heritage Centre, which in- sponges, rays and crabs. The last surviving Carlos Vejarano, a Spanish board mem- ten when people get the World Heritage la- Spain’s permanent delegate to only remaining islands playing host to impor- scribed it in 1982; the Seychelles Islands flightless bird indigenous to the Indian ber of the SIF, was behind the 2005 found- bel, they think, ‘They’re going to give us Unesco, the committee consists tant giant tortoise populations; once wide- Foundation (SIF), which has managed it Ocean, the Aldabra rail, is found only here. ing of the Aldabra Foundation (www.aldabra something.’ It creates expectations. What’s of representatives from 21 spread, they have become systematically since 1979; and the more recent Aldabra These elements make Aldabra apoten- foundation.org), a Geneva-based group that commendable about the Seychelles govern- signatories of the World Heritage extinct upon the arrival of humans into their Foundation —want to maintain Aldabra as tially valuable example to other protected sponsors research on the island, as well as ment and people is they see it another way. Convention. For more information, ecosystems. an example of a pristine atoll wilderness. As marine areas in determining precisely how educational activities, such as an itinerant They have areal sense of taking care of the visit http://whc.unesco.org Visitors to Aldabra are rare. Those who a time capsule, or blueprint for evolution, it much human presence and what types of exhibit. To this end, it is helped by the place.’’ [ arrive by infrequent boats cannot stay — is of considerable scientific importance, ‘‘a protective strategies are required to sustain there are no hotels, only a lone research out- perpetually observable storehouse of data its unique biodiversity. post staffed by 12 rangers. Any trip is limited on biodiversity in amanner no longer possi- Maintaining the atoll is costly, however. to a few hours, and this depends on the ble in much of the world,’’ according to the Aldabra lies 1,200 kilometers (745 miles) tides. Even those who do make the trek to Aldabra Foundation's mission statement. away from the main island group of the the far-flung outpost in the Indian Ocean Aldabra is special for Dr. Frauke Fleis- Seychelles (population 80,000). A second shouldn’t expect picture-postcard, white- cher-Dogley, SIF’s chief executive officer, be- World Heritage site, the Vallée de Mai, is lo- sand beaches. The entire atoll is battered by cause it ‘‘feels like a different planet,’’ one of cated in the main island group, which is an

EXPLORING | Another way of sharing heritage Virtual tourism: A World Heritage site goes to the people ost Unesco World Heritage sites the vegetation that surrounds it. Sounds encourage tourism, but Aldabra and smells are part of the show, as are mul- M Atoll is an exception. Inhospitable timedia programs, photos, tactile screens and remote, it is basically a no-go zone. The and games for children. There are replicas atoll is 35 kilometers (25 miles) long and 15 of its giant tortoises and amodel reef. Chil- kilometers wide, but a mere one-20th of it is dren can send e-cards. The exhibit also tells accessible, and only two locations are open the story of World Heritage and explains how to visitors; what goes on there is research Aldabra was photographed for the exhibition and preservation work. The atoll is one of —an undertaking not without hardship. nature’s crown jewels, however, and Carlos Since the land is practically impenetrable, THE HIGHEST WATCHMAKING FOR THE DEEPEST DIVING. Vejarano, founder of the Aldabra Foundation NATURA most of the filming had to be done in or on

(www.aldabrafoundation.org), says, ‘‘Every- FOTO the water. one can’t go, but I can bring it to you.’’ / Not many World Heritage sites can say Vejarano has long been involved in envi- they tour with major, six-month shows at the ronmental activities, such as high-mountain world’s top museums, but it is only through ALDABRA reforestation programs in Nepal. He recalls photos that most people can get to Aldabra.

how he originally sought to make Aldabra TEAM Vejarano is raising awareness —virtually — better known. ‘‘I thought Icould create sup- turning it into aWorld Heritage site that can port by going out and asking people to con- come to people. tribute,’’ he says. ‘‘But that wasn’t working. ‘‘Each person tries to find a way to help,’’ EXPEDITION Instead, Isaw one needs to photograph the says Vejarano. ‘‘I decided to photograph and place and do exhibits of it.’’ Exhibits, he says, Aldabra in images: Traveling exhibits are one way make exhibits, bringing Aldabra to people so are the perfect vehicle for creating aware- of sharing the atoll with the world. we all can share it.’’ Bringing humanity its ness of this unusual spot. ‘‘Suddenly you’re heritage, so people can all better appreciate sharing this World Heritage site, but in an- seum last year (attracting 360,000 visitors it, has a message in itself, he points out. other way. In this form, it can go to a lot of in five months). Its next stop could be ‘‘The exhibit has got people talking about people, especially children.’’ Monaco’s Oceanography Museum, which Aldabra,’’ he says, ‘‘and it is another way to Realizing that neither the scientific impor- would be fitting, since Jacques-Yves Cous- make them aware of the environment, tance nor the wonders of Aldabra can be ad- teau, the museum’s director for more than aware that nature is us and is our heritage.’’ equately described, Vejarano thought the 30 years, was one of the first to reveal to He is particularly eager to target young public could get agood idea through acol- the world the wonders of Aldabra, in the people. ‘‘Children see the exhibit, and begin lection of the images, objects, sounds and 1950s. The exhibit celebrates Aldabra and developing an attitude that we have to care smells of the place. He put together an itin- features an interactive model of the atoll more about our environment, that it has to erant exhibit, which went to The Hague in that explains its uniqueness —everything become more sustainable. Ithink we need 2006 and to Paris’s Natural History Mu- from the complicated riptides in its lagoon to to go more in that direction.’’ [

In the Vallée de Joux, a watchmaker preserves the heritage of craftsmanship The heart of a ‘‘Haute Horlogerie’’ the first LeCoultre —Pierre — The Swiss manufacture’s inventors watch is its caliber —its mechanical settled,’’ explains Sebastian Vivas, and the competencies they passed movement. Since 1833, Jaeger- Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house historian on to succeeding generations are, he LeCoultre has created more than and curator of the Heritage Gallery. says, directly connected to the 1,000 different calibers, including the ‘‘He brought a spirit that has culture of the Vallée de Joux. ‘‘The MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVINGPRO GEOGRAPHIC. smallest movement, the thinnest and remained. There was something first pioneers had to develop a do-it- Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 979/1000® some of the most complicated. Three special about the people who came yourself philosophy and find their own Amechanical depth gauge with indication to 80 metres. hundred can be seen in its Heritage to this isolated valley, cleared the solutions,’’ Vivas says. ‘‘Today, this Two patented compression keys for perfect water Gallery, a museum where its famous land and developed the villages. They remains because each model of a resistance to 300 metres. Performance exceeds the watches are on display. were pioneers. They mastered watch has its own movement, and prevailing NIHS norms. An automatic movement with a Preserving the heritage of a craft metallurgy, then watchmaking, each is developed at the same time is as important as conserving a transforming the Vallée de Joux into as the watch. The inside and the geographical function indicating world time. natural wonder, and at Jaeger- the prosperous place where the outside are made for each other. This HAVE YOU EVER WORN AREAL WATCH? LeCoultre headquarters, in the Vallée world’s finest watches are made.’’ harmony is one of the secrets of what de Joux near Geneva, this heritage Vivas says this heritage gives makes a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch so goes back to 1559. ‘‘That’s the year Jaeger-LeCoultre its special identity. special and so exclusive.’’ In partnership with NIO M O UN M D RI T IA

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