Volume 17 • Issue 8 • August/September 2017

Departments Features Nick Ohlrich Nick Fish Traveler 6 Haines by Terry W. Sheely 36 © 72 Fish Alaska Creel 8 Join Contributing Editor Terry Sheely for an off- Fish Alaska Gear Bag 10 the-beaten-path adventure in Haines, a rare drive-in destination with a pair of riveting freshwater salmon Fish Alaska Online 12 rivers, a plethora of saltwater opportunities and postcard- for a Compliment 14 quality scenery in every direction. Fish Alaska Families 16 Mini Steelhead Techniques for Trout & Dollies Salmon Sense 18 by JD Richey 44 Fish Alaska Conservation 20 Alaska’s rainbows, cutthroat and Dollies are perfect Fish Alaska Fly 22 fish for the fly rod, but you can also catch a bunch of Fish Alaska Boats 24 fish with scaled-down steelhead techniques on light, Fish Alaska Saltwater 30 traditional gear. Here JD Richey shows us how. Fish Alaska Stillwater 32 Making Memories by Andrew Cremata 52 Fish Alaska Recipe 78 Contributing Editor Andrew Cremata chronicles one

© Terry W. Sheely W. © Terry of the true joys of fishing, successfully hooking a young 36 Advertiser Index 80 angler on the sport. Final Drift 82 Gateway to the Tongass by E. Donnall Thomas, Jr. 56 Don and Lori Thomas take us inside the target-rich Thorne Bay region for some of southeast Alaska’s best autumn action, where anglers can fish the saltwater one day and then easily drive to dozens of productive salmon streams the next. Top 5 DIY Adventures for Fall in Alaska by Troy Letherman 64 For do-it-yourself anglers there is nothing better than Alaska, and even more, Alaska in the fall. For those inclined to get out and test their mettle against some of the state’s hottest fish, here’s our guide to five of the most

© JD Richey 44 sizzling this time of year. Pavlov’s Trout by Nick Ohlrich 72 You don’t need to be a late-19th century psychologist to ring the dinner bell for Alaska’s trophy trout, but as fish grow in size and sophistication, you do need to outsmart them. Here Kenai guide Nick Ohlrich takes us inside his daily game of cat-and-mouse and passes on his keys to becoming a better, smarter angler.

COVER / Dolly Varden are abundant in Alaska and are usually quite willing to crush most lures.

© Don and Lori Thomas 56 © Melissa Norris August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 3 2 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 3 PUBLISHERS Marcus Weiner Melissa Norris ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS Patrick Speranza Kathy Anderson EDITOR Troy Letherman OPERATIONS MANAGER Wayne Norris EFFICIENCY MANAGER Ana Taylor ART DIRECTOR Bailey Anderson PRODUCTION MANAGER Russell K Porsley III GRAPHIC DESIGNER Melissa Wong

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Greg Brush, Troy Buzalsky, Andrew Cremata, Les Gara, Scott Haugen, Pudge Kleinkauf, George Krumm, J.D. Richey, Terry Sheely, E. Donnall Thomas Jr., Jeremy Anderson CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Hastings A. Franks, Ken Baldwin, Anthony Madden, Tony Davis, Kristin Dunn, Brian Woobank

REGIONAL SALES MANAGERS George Krumm (907) 529-6172 Rick Birch (907) 394-1763

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Fish Alaska magazine is published ten times annually in January-July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov and December by Fish Alaska Publications, LLC, P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. Send all address changes to P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. One year subscriptions are $30 U.S. dollars for subscriptions in the U.S., $50 U.S in Canada, and $80 U.S. in all other countries.The single copy price is $6.99 in U.S. dollars. To subscribe by phone please call 907-345-4337. Editorial correspondence should be sent to Attn: Editor, Fish Alaska magazine, P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. Unsolicited manuscripts and photos will be considered, but must be accompanied by a self- addressed stamped envelope. Although we will take care, Fish Alaska is not responsible for the loss or return of unsolicited materials. The opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the opinions of Fish Alaska magazine publishers and editors.

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4 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 5 Reps and Adam prepare the raft to Day-tripping Fish Hounds launch. Story and photos by Melissa Norris

There’s a difference between loving to fish Talkeetna Mountains, Little Willow Creek and living to fish—and, Adam and Reps sees a run of kings, pinks, chum and silver live to fish, and they love to share it with salmon, plus rainbows and some Dollies. people of all experience levels. So when average between 8- and you are looking for a guided day-trip while 20 inches in this creek. It is a clearwater staying in Anchorage, a good option is to tributary, which makes sight-fishing possible hire FishHound Expeditions for a half- or and it is easy to wade. A good pair of full-day of river fishing. polarized sunglasses is definitely a plus. FishHound Expeditions is a partnership Reps expertly backed the raft to the river’s between two experienced guides, Adam edge while Adam had me make several Cuthriell and Dave “Reps” Repta. I first hook-free casts towards him in the parking “met” Adam when he called me up at the lot. Using a 6-weight fly rod, we went over FishHound guides provide a hot lunch for guests on their full-day trips and pack extra rain ponchos if you lack the proper attire. In all my years of fishing with guides for the magazine I don’t recall any providing a pregame warm-up on land before heading out to the fishing grounds. I find that to be a great asset for a novice fly angler so they are less likely to spazz out on their very first hook-setting encounter. Fishing on the Little Willow is pretty easy for those with experience. It requires small flip casts to a riverbank less than 20 feet away in most places. There is plenty of vegetation to get caught up in if you don’t pay attention but a little observation and help from your boatmates goes a long way. No backcasting and extensive hauling is needed, so if you have shoulder problems or little experience this is a great way to go. We caught several nice trout that day and they were all healthy fish caught on darker Adam and Rado with a healthy Little Willow Creek rainbow trout. colored flies easily seen in this clear water. Reps expertly rowed us downriver in their suggestion of our mutual friend Jeremy the basics of catching and landing trout as spacious raft and I enjoyed listening to stories Anderson. Adam won me over quickly with he does with their clients. I passed the initial of fishing trips from all over the state and his love for dogs, his positive attitude and assessment and we jumped in the raft to fish beyond. He had me beat with the number an obvious passion for fishing. I readily the rocky stream. of Alaska rivers he’s fished.That’s not so easy accepted his invitation to float-fish on a Day-trips include wading or rafting the and I love hearing from fishermen with that Mat-Su river that summer. road-system rivers of the much seasoning. We floated and fished for It was the end of June and we met in drainage, casting flies to catch-and-release about seven hours but you can make it a the morning at the Willow Creek State Alaska’s salmon, trout and Dollies just one shorter or longer float depending on stops. Recreational Area located at mile marker hour north of Anchorage. It is no problem To float straight through without fishing 70.8 of the George Parks Highway. It’s if you aren’t a hardcore fly would take somewhere around four hours. a nice place to camp in an RV, trailer or because these day-trips are best suited for For more practiced fishing nuts, Adam tent, so you could actually just base-camp those looking to experience Alaska in a and Reps also host extended trips up to 10 here and float-fish for several days on the safe, nature-loving way with the vast beauty days on remote rivers such as Clear Creek Susitna River tributaries that are most around you commanding your attention. and the Talachulitna River, as well as on a productive at the time. You could never have held a fly rod before couple of their favorite rivers in southwest I paid the $5 to park at the State Rec. in your life and it doesn’t matter because Alaska. Adam is a State of Alaska EMT and Area and went to find Adam. It was then these guys will treat you kindly and literally Reps is a gourmet cook. Adam and Reps that I met Reps and canine sidekick Rado. guide you into accomplishing the task. Adam have each been guiding for over 15 years I hopped in with them to trailer the boat and Reps are naturally equipped to help you and fishing far longer. Give them a call at down to the launch at the mile 74.7 Parks enjoy this day as enthusiastic, experienced 907-382-1802 to book an easy day trip in Highway Bridge, where we would put-in to and service-oriented guides. They enjoy the Susitna Valley or ask about float trips. fish the Little Willow. giving people their first taste of Alaska with Adam planned to rig us up for rainbows these day-trips and find that guests often and I am always game to fish for trout. book a long-range fly-out on their next trip Melissa Norris is the Publisher of Fish Alaska Originating from the foothills of the to get the full Alaska experience. and Hunt Alaska magazines. 6 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 7 silvers, enough to nearly clog the narrow stream. Before even reaching the Kenai, travelers from Anchorage will also pass the Silver Season Placer, Portage and Twentymile rivers near the Autumn in Alaska is magic—for anglers and head of Turnagain Arm. The Seward Highway for fly anglers in particular. crosses the lower sections of these systems near Active, fat rainbows are a big part of the tidewater in open country left virtually sterile reason, drawing anglers from points across after flooding with saltwater during the 1964 the globe who come here to chase one of earthquake. Though the best fishing almost the state’s signature fish in rivers that have always involves a jet boat trip deep into the been made famous by the size and numbers thick spruce that veils these streams, each can of these trout. Alaska’s rainbow trout are an be an exciting and productive alternative to industry now, and to say you’ve fished the more crowded fisheries. Far North it’s nearly necessary to have first Another prime though often overlooked spent a day on the windswept tundra waters coho destination on the peninsula is the of Southwest, casting to some of the largest Swanson River, which is probably better specimens of Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus on known for the trout and grayling fishing the planet. found along the popular canoe trails through But there is a lot more to fall in Alaska— its headwater lake system. The area near the meaning, of course, coho salmon. river’s terminus at Cook Inlet can be crowded, In fact a twin pillar of the season’s but anglers who put in at the Swanson River prominence, Alaska’s silvers range Campground and float the 24 miles of middle continuously from the far southern panhandle and lower river will see more silvers and fewer to Norton Sound and from there sporadically people. to Point Hope on the Chukchi Sea. They Southcentral anglers with access to a jet are an extremely adaptable fish and occur boat will also find strong silver runs in the in nearly every accessible body of freshwater upper Susitna and Yentna drainages, namely in much of this range, from large, glacially in the numerous clearwater sloughs and influenced drainages such as the Stikine or tributary mouths that dot the drainages. Air- Susitna to small clearwater tributaries and taxi and guide services such as those offered coastal rivers. In southeast Alaska alone, by Trail Ridge Air (www.trailridgeair.com) are spawning populations of coho salmon are another, professional means of access. known to exist in at least 2,500 streams. And finally, just minutes away from the Range and abundance doesn’t explain Kenai by floatplane, on the western shores everything about their popularity, however, of Cook Inlet, several terrific coho salmon as silvers are also exuberant fighters, usually streams spill off the slopes of the Alaska quite acrobatic, with both good size and Range, criss-crossing the short, muskeg- stamina. Plus, the species is known for its dotted forelands before dumping into the willingness to chase a fly—even on top in sea. Anglers can again contact an air taxi the right situations. As a gamefish, coho to arrange a day-trip, finding phenomenal offer anglers an incredibly diverse range of fishing just 20 minutes to a half-hour away, angling scenarios for which any number of which allows you to fish until your arms can’t techniques, presentations, spoons, spinners, bear it anymore and still return to town for a bait and fly patterns may be appropriate, gourmet dinner by early evening. making them accessible to anglers of any age Big River Lakes, a series of four or experience level. Added to that variety, interconnected lakes on the Bachatna Flats, coho can be taken in nearly any of Alaska’s probably get the most visitors during the angling environments, from the rock-strewn silver salmon run, along with the Kustatan creeks that tumble through the old growth of River, located a short distance away and Southeast to the wide-open artesian streams featuring similar angling prospects. The Big of the Aleutian coast. River Lakes area is known as a top locale for For those in southcentral Alaska, getting pitching Pollywogs and other surface skaters into the coho this time of year is often as to milling silver salmon (this would be a simple as jumping in your rig and hitting great place to try Mike Brown’s popper that’s any of the dozens and dozens of roadside highlighted later in this issue). The Chuitna streams and rivers that receive strong runs. River, the aptly-named Silver Salmon Creek Most know of the usual suspects: the Kenai and the Kamishak River also offer superb River and the plethora of Susitna drainage coho angling set amidst the sweeping coastal tributaries in the Mat-Su Valley, but there is scenery. also great opportunity to fish for silvers in Regardless of your choice—or even better, a more remote, wilderness setting without choices—there’s nothing better than fishing going through the trouble of planning a Alaska in the fall. Yes, our trophy trout are multi-day trip. hard to pass up, but don’t overlook some time For those bound to the roads of the Kenai spent fishing for coho salmon—a species that Peninsula, venturing a little farther up the never disappoints. Sterling Highway might be in order, as the Anchor River receives a decent return of Troy Letherman 8 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 9 Heatmax HotHands Hand Warmers www.hothands.com Providing up to 10 hours of safe and natural heat, HotHands Hand Fenwick Aetos Rods Warmers are single- Coast Polysteel 600R www.fenwickfishing.com use, air-activated www.coastportland.com The Fenwick Aetos family of rods includes spinning, casting, fly and ice spinning rods. heat packs that are The Polysteel 600R features Coast’s Onyx M-16 Inflatable Belt Pack Casting and spinning rods in the line are numerous and they feature Fenwick’s X-Veil high- compact and fit nicely within most patented rechargeable system with www.onyxoutdoor.com modulus blank, a custom ergonomic reel seat, titanium guides with zirconium inserts, EVA gloves and mittens. We’ve used them Dual Power, allowing it to run on The easy-to-use Onyx M-16 and TAC split-grip handles and a limited lifetime warranty. Rods are light, high-performance, lithium or alkaline batteries. The BnR Tackle Soft Trout Beads for over a decade on both hunting and packs U.S. Coast Guard-approved easy to cast and sensitive. Many models exist in the Aetos fly rod family and they feature a fishing trips and always keep some lithium battery doubles as a Power performance into a comfortable, fast-action blank, large-diameter gunsmoke stripper guides and double-foot gunsmoke snake www.bnrtackle.com handy on outdoor adventures when it’s Bank with a USB-Out port that BnR Tackle Soft Trout Beads offer a bead ultra-sleek belt pack that’s ideal guides, an aluminum anodized reel seat, AAA-grade cork handle and all include a bag and cool or cold, especially when children enables the charging of other devices. for fishing, hunting, kayaking, rod tube. These fast-recovering, high-performance rods are available for freshwater, saltwater, that has the feel of a real egg, which causes are along. Each package contains a pair The flashlight is waterproof, drop- fish to hold onto them longer and gives canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, switch and Spey anglers. Aetos ice rods feature high-modulus, solid graphite blanks, hidden of warmers. HotHands also makes toe proof and crush-proof and includes sailing and recreational boating. handle design reel seats with carbon fiber hoods, TAC and cork handle construction and anglers longer to set the hook. Soft Beads warmers, foot warmers, insole foot their Pure Beam Optics system with are offered in 6-, 7-, 8-, 10- and 12mm in Its small size makes it easy to store stainless steel guides. These rods are available in a variety of actions and powers, with fast tips warmers and body warmers. Stock up twist focus, yielding up to 710 lumens when not in use and makes it more for setting the hook and feeling the bite. a variety of bead patterns. Each package on HotHands this fall at Fred Meyer. (alkaline). It is also available in five comes with beads and everything you convenient to take with you and different colors. The Polysteel 600R wear on the water. The M-16 belt need to rig the bead. Flashlight is backed by Coast’s lifetime Pro-Troll Lighted Flasher Series pack inflates manually and instantly www.protroll.com warranty against defects in materials when needed. The wearer simply and workmanship. Pro-Troll has added a new Lighted Flasher pulls the inflation activation handle. series to its lineup. Flashing lights are now Promar ProFloat Nets After use, the PFD rearms easily available in the ProChip 11, ProChip 8, and www.promarnets.com with the M-16 Rearming Kit. The the ProFin 6 flasher series. The small oval Over the past year Promar has been introducing an array of new innovations and form-fitting belt pack has a 1-inch light emits a bright white, red and green redesigned products for today’s anglers. Two of those new products are Promar’s new buckle and body belt, as well as flash. It is permanently sealed, lasts 80 hours ProFloat Series Landing Nets. These nets feature a durable, high-buoyancy foam body an attached D-ring for affixing or more of time and can then be that is reinforced with an internal anti-corrosion aluminum frame. They come outfitted accessories. It is available in either easily replaced. The light turns on when with rubber coated Hook Resist mesh netting secured to either a 13.5- x 18.5-inch Grey or Realtree Max-5 camouflage. it enters the water and off when removed. hoop or a 18.5- x 20.5-inch hoop. This is an excellent solution for wade, kayak, float Most fish are attracted to a light, so this style tube or small boat fishermen who don’t want to lose another net in the water. flasher promises to be a big winner.

10 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 11 Fall is among our favorite times of year here at Fish Alaska, and we take this time to get out of the office and onto the water, because this is when the year’s fishing really heats up. With the rainbows fat and happy and the silvers pouring in thick as ever, this is a great chance to fish the very best of Alaska. But before you go, check out these timely articles for fishing silvers and trout this autumn.

August/September 2017 Highlights: No boat? No problem. There are several great places to wade- or bank- fish for coho and several ways to do it. Go online to learn techniques on how to bank-fish for silvers and also find the top places around the state to fish for silvers on foot by Fish Alaska Publisher Melissa Norris.

On the salty side of things, Publisher Marcus Weiner writes about how to troll for silvers. From recommended gear and proven methods to the best charters for silver fishing and productive destinations this season.

This month at Fish Alaska Editor Troy Letherman shares the most popular flies for trout and silvers for

Bonus Online Only Content fall fishing. Plus, he discusses how to present your fur and feathers to these turbocharged ’bows, from swinging streamers to dead-drifting dries, with tips and tricks for all experience levels.

It’s imperative to keep it legal. Alaska Wildlife Trooper Dan Gunderson brings us “How to Fish Legally in Alaska” this month. Find details on what to keep in mind when you set out to fish in the Last Frontier.

www.fishalaskamagazine.com 12 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 13 Noah Payne, 8, caught this Kenai River rainbow on his custom fly rod in August 2016.

Jim Sawhill of Anchorage with a Prince of Wales Island steelhead Dwayne Roberts shows off the results of in May. his last cast after seven straight days of steelhead fishing in Southeast. Mason Calloway, Brian Batchelder, Dan and Tasha Thompson, Ryan Jessica Sharp and Melissa Wong, and John Connolly of USCG ESD Anchorage went of Idaho with on a morale-building fishing trip this past May and caught their limit of a nice feeder Homer halibut with Bob’s Trophy Charters. king she caught while trolling in Kachemak Bay.

Jennifer Kaiser fishing the Karen Todd with a nice winter king from Kasilof River Kachemak Bay back in January. back in June.

Gary Moist with a 96-pound Thorne Bay halibut.

LaDonna McCray enjoying a beautiful day fishing for kings in Kachemak Bay.

Mikey Wright & Larissa Fitzpatrick with their Naknek River ’bows in September 2016.

Dylan Granza with a 21-pound Deshka River king.

Payton Ward enjoying the sockeye runs in Iliamna. Send us Your Husband and wife Shannon & Angie Fishing Photos! Bolog having E-mail hi-res .jpeg photos to: russell@ some catch-and- fishalaskamagazine.com. Subject release fun on Line: FFC. Please include vital Willow Creek with their dog Willow in caption information in the e-mail. summer 2016. We will let you know when your photo will appear in the magazine.

14 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 15 ’Bows and Kids Pesky little treasures: Rainbow Trout by Becky Schwanke Draped over the smooth edge of the raft with my feet bobbing in and out of the warm surface water, it’s clear to me: There is no better place to be, no better feeling. Finally, the sun and the breeze joined forces to whisk away those voracious little bloodsucking pests, my pasty white Alaska skin soaking up every ray as if starved since birth. Oh, those were the days. No more school, no books, no chores, I was free and I wanted it to last forever. Little did I realize that while I lapsed in and out of my sunny afternoon coma, my steadfast guide (aka Dad) was vigilant in making sure to avoid sweepers, boulders and other shallow- water obstacles as we made our way down the Gulkana River. Somewhat of an annual tradition during my youth, the midsummer float was always one of adventure, relaxation and true Alaska summer fun. The sweet aroma of fish slime, Deet and wet dog. I can almost smell it. I wasn’t a kid with any patience. When I decided to fish, I expected quick nibbles and a consistent catch. Yes, I was a rainbow trout fishing extraordinaire. No Barbie pole for me, I knew my prey and my gear was sized and set-up perfectly. Again, kudos to my guide (aka the best dad in the world). Rainbow trout were no match for my keen eye and expert cast. Feisty little fish indeed and cooperative, too. I have so many early memories of pulling in bright, colorful bows as a kid. Probably one of the best fish to start a kid on, rainbow trout are dutiful little foragers and are always ready for a fight. To this day I enjoy catching even the smallest rainbow, especially on light gear. More fun these days, though, is getting kids hooked into these fun little sport fish. Since most of our favorite Alaska salmon rivers are also home to wild stocks of rainbow trout, this fun sport fish is often overlooked. Limited to the southern half of the state, wild rainbows can be found in lakes and rivers from the Gulkana drainage west through the Susitna and the Kenai Peninsula, and out through Bristol Bay and the Alaska Peninsula, big ’bow country. A number of small lakes and rivers throughout Southeast host rainbows as well. Many a king salmon pursuit has been interrupted by a pesky rainbow latching onto our egg-baited hooks. But when it comes to kids, having a pole set-up for rainbows always in reach can be a load of fun. These are opportunistic feeders; they often bite on just about anything from eggs to spinners and spoons to topwater fry and smolt patterns. Depending on the time of year, their natural food sources are a good place to start when choosing tackle. I didn’t notice it when I was young, or maybe it wasn’t an issue—the lip tears, the damaged eyes, the scars. Our wild rainbow fisheries are often catch-and-release and for a good reason. At the end of the year, often the number of angler-days on a river is monumental compared to the number of rainbows in-river. Catching a beautiful wild rainbow is like exploring a new piece of the backcountry, the cleaner you leave it, the better experience the next guy will have. So remember to be gentle in releasing these little treasures. I’m a shameless proponent for getting kids hooked on fishing. They don’t really seem to care what type of fish comes out of the water, but that it’s hooked on the end of their line. Fishing where you know there are wild rainbow trout can often result in good catches of grayling, too, which just adds to the experience. With stocked lakes full of rainbow trout, lake trout, Arctic char or landlocked salmon throughout the Tanana River drainage and Southcentral, many a weekend adventure fishing trip await. We all remember those amazing days where we can’t keep the fish off our line, but often those trips were not fishing trips at all. Weekend outings with the kids can be about camping, exploring and learning new country. In the fall, our focus might change to hunting and berry-picking, but always pack a pole for the kids. Even if you have just an inkling there might be fun little underwater treasures where you’re headed, you’ll kick yourself if you don’t bring along a . Trout can be a hoot to hook into, especially for a kid that’s expecting it the least.

Becky Schwanke is the owner of Tuff Kids Outdoors, as well as a Hunter and Outdoor Education instructor and former wildlife biologist with ADF&G. 16 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 17 river. You’ll often find plenty of fish (and (be on the lookout for bears!) and then other anglers) down there—and always you can fish both up- and downstream keep an eye out for bears! from the entry point. Car Fishing for This is one of those spots you have Cordova Coho Ibeck Creek to hit perfectly. When there’s too much Story & photos by JD Richey Ibeck Creek, locally known as “7 Mile,” water, you can’t hike down it and the fish is a beautiful stream that gets a big run are tough to get to. But if you wait two of silvers. Fish and people pile up at the days after a rain, you may find the creek to Cordova and silver salmon fishing have bridge but you can get some elbow room be too low and the fishing difficult. been synonymous for a long time. The by hiking up the well-used trail on the region is home to some of the most creek’s west bank. The trail is easy with McKinley Lake productive coho streams around—as well very little elevation change. You may have Just north of the Copper River Highway as some of the largest silvers in the state. to cross the river in a spot or two, which at mile 21.6, there’s a 2.2-mile trail that While much of Cordova’s fame comes can be a bit dicey at higher flows. leads to McKinley Lake, where you can from the incredible fishing that takes It’s a good idea to make plenty of noise sometimes find good action on silvers place in the exotic and remote streams You can find plenty of world-class silver up the trail since there are quite a few big in the outlet channels. There’s about a fishing along Cordova’s road system. of the Lost Coast, such as the Tsiu and brownies in the area. ¾-mile cross-country hike from the trail Tsivat rivers, some epic opportunities The river immediately below the to the good fishing. are accessible by car as well. What’s cool highway bridge (which is located just Alaganik Slough about that is you can do a grand Alaska downstream of the outlet of Eyak Lake) In late August and early September, The “Hippy Hole” adventure on a budget by getting a room is sluggish and slow and doesn’t fish all waves of fresh silvers push through the If you don’t mind crowds, check out the in town, renting a set of wheels and that well in low water. The best action lower reaches of Alaganik Slough, bound Hippy Cove (Flemming Spit) on Orca heading out on your own. occurs in the deeper holes about a mile for spawning tributaries farther up the Inlet, which is just north of downtown on Here are some of the spots to check out: and a half downstream. Access to that area system. At first glance, the slough looks aptly-named Orca Road. A small run of is via boat (there’s a public boat launch more like a place you’d find catfish— broodstock coho return to the cove, and Eyak River at mile 6.5 on the highway) or by hiking tidal, sluggish and murky—but the silver then at high tide, the fish run through a Only 6 miles up the Copper River the trail that begins at the bridge. The trail fishing there can be outstanding. culvert into a pond on the other side of Highway from downtown is the Eyak is a well-worn affair that begins on the You can gain access to the slough off the road. River, one of Cordova’s most prolific and downstream side of the bridge and follows Alaganik Slough Road at mile 17 of the While some fresh silvers can be caught close-to-home silver fisheries. The coho the western bank of the river. Copper Highway. The road dead-ends here on spinners or herring under floats, start showing up here in early August and There’s a popular trailhead at mile 6 at a nature center and boat ramp, and it’s often a circus and not really what the run continues to build towards its that, after about a one-hour hike, leads about a quarter-mile before that, there’s comes to mind when you picture Alaska peak in mid-September. you down to one of the best holes on the a boardwalk trail that runs through the fishing. The upside is it gives the local kids wetlands down to the water’s edge. Chest something to do within bicycle range of are a must here as the trail is home. often partially underwater, and to access some of the best spots along the slough, Timing you’ll have to cross the mouths of several Silvers show up in Cordova area streams tributary channels and creeks. Just be sure in August but the best fishing is in to pay attention to the tide book—you September. Of course, weather can be a can get stranded on islands when the tide factor the later in the season you go. comes in if you’re not careful.

Haystack Trail There’s a small creek off the Haystack Trail JD Richey is a contributing editor for Fish (mile 19). It is about a one-mile hike in Alaska magazine; he can be reached through over a well-maintained boardwalk trail his website at www.fishwithjd.com.

Also known as Hippy Cove, Flemming Spit provides a good salmon spot for locals right in town.

18 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 19 at the watershed scale. best places, the salmon will come back.” The Tongass 77 now includes 73 Hieronymus likes the financial analogy. watersheds, totaling 1.89 million acres. “You don’t start a retirement account on These watersheds are top salmon and trout the day you’re retiring.” Protecting Southeast spawning and rearing habitat, supporting The same remoteness that makes a species. Virtually all the forest so unique also makes it less Alaska’s Salmon Forest animals, fish, birds and vegetation in visible to most anglers, in and out Story and photos by Lee Leschper the Tongass rely on the nutrients from of Alaska. “Certainly, Southeast and Imagine you’re reading this one August these salmon. the Tongass have the disadvantage of morning. You’re far down a southeast The original Tongass 77 plan was a being (remote), a fly-over region, sort Alaska trail, walking through dripping product of the Tongass Futures Round of the lower left arm on the bottom of hemlocks overhead, devil’s club and ferns Table, which looked at long-term Alaska,” Hieronymus said. “If people bear-high on each side, following a glacial conservation issues in the forest, at a time The Tongass is the largest temperate rain forest in the world, providing breathtaking don’t have a connection to the landscape, stream on your left. The water’s surface when most plans were focused on logging scenery as backdrop to breathtaking . of what this area is like, it’s easy to swirls often with fat, dark salmon. and not fish. Today is a comments to get to the table, to represent easily squandered.” overlook. But in terms of water, it’s about These are mostly pinks, humpbacked leading force in the program. fish and recreation.” This is not an absolute With years of experience on these 4 percent of the Alaska footprint in and dark brown. On sandy banks, there’s Mark Hieronymus is Trout Unlimited’s “hands-off” outlook, he added. “In some waters, Hieronymus continued, “This is acres, but it produces over 30 percent of an occasional chum carcass, olive and Sportfish Outreach Coordinator in cases, and in some areas, logging on one issue—if there ever was one—that the commercial catch of salmon. When purple and empty-eyed, with a grizzly Alaska, when he’s not guiding fly a small scale and second growth done can bring diverse Alaskans together. Every people think of Alaska and think of those track nearby. In the deepest woody holes, fishermen on these same Tongass streams correctly and sustainably, with regard for one of us can gain immeasurably by taking mountains, bears, eagles and salmon, they you can only imagine the silvers that are that he is working to protect. “Our fish and tourism, can be done in a way care of our salmon. We are at peak (wild) are thinking about southeast Alaska.” soon to arrive. concern is not necessarily a defensive that doesn’t affect fish. You can’t sell out salmon production in southeast Alaska. For more on The Tongass 77 and The air is thick with the smell of salmon measure,” Hieronymus said. “It is a pro- one commodity for another.” Look at humpies. In 2013 the pink catch the work Trout Unlimited and others and wet vegetation and mud. And life. fish measure. At some point, we asan Southeast Alaska cultural anthropologist was 98 million fish. Less than 1.5 million are doing to protect them, go to Welcome to the Salmon Forest. Alaskan society have to recognize the Richard Nelson has a profound take are hatchery fish. These are all wild fish.” www.americansalmonforest.org. Southeast Alaska’s Tongass National fact that fish, and in particular salmon, on the forest as a cultural and financial It hasn’t always been that way, Forest is the largest temperate rainforest drive a good portion of the economy. It’s resource: “Tongass salmon rivers are like he pointed out. “We’ve had salmon on Earth. At 17 million acres, it’s also the sometimes a disconnect for people, on money in the bank. They are a diverse depressions before. Remember the salmon Lee Leschper is a lifelong outdoor writer nation’s largest national forest and includes where these fish come from. portfolio that if carefully managed, pays trap era and then again 1974-1976? They and fisherman who now publishes islands, fjords, glaciers, muskeg and more This is an attempt to drive home the huge dividends every year. This natural stopped hatchery pinks in the early 2000s AlaskaOutdoorDigest.com, a website dedicated than 17,000 miles of undammed rivers. point that these areas are unique, and salmon bank is highly perfected and and now the resource has rebuilt itself. As to covering core fishing, hunting and conservation The Tongass and its vast network of there is nothing in them from another cannot be improved upon. But it can be long as we let it be, in these best of the issues in Alaska. streams and estuaries is the focus of a long- resource extraction side that can replace term campaign with a unique team of the fish that these areas make. If wedo players, to provide long-term protection things without regard to fish, then we are for this resource. The campaign, called killing the goose that laid the golden egg.” the Tongass 77, has a straightforward The salmon and related goal: The Tongass 77 is an effort led by industries is valued at more than $1 billion southeast Alaska commercial and sport a year and supports 10 percent of all jobs fishermen and other conservation-minded here. About 65 percent of watersheds individuals aimed at persuading Congress in the Tongass are not protected from to increase conservation measures for the development, and while conservation best wild salmon and trout habitat in the groups sometimes are quick to get Tongass. By habitat, we mean the forest litigious to block development, that’s not and freshwater systems that produce these TU’s approach, Hieronymus continued. fish. At present, 65 percent of salmon “TU has objected to logging and and trout habitat in the Tongass National mining sales in southeast Alaska, but Forest is not protected from development we’ve never litigated a sale. We put in

A dense school of spawning in a Southeast stream.

20 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 21 Materials: Popper Head: Flymen Surface Seducer Double Barrel Popper, size Large Double Barrel Popper Eyes: Flymen Surface Seducer Dragon Eyes Oceanic, size 6mm Pattern originator and photos by Mike Brown Hook: Daiichi 2141, size 1 Tail: Fl Fushia or Hot Pink Marabou Coho salmon, of all the Pacific salmon, are the most eager to please Body: UV Polar Chenille in Fl. Fushia a fly angler. Most commonly they are targeted with streamer-type Thread: Veevus 140 Fl. Pink flies while stripping, swinging or popping the fly, but the most fun is on topwater. The best water to target these fish with topwater tactics is when they are pooled up in a holding mode in soft, eddy-type water, but they can be targeted in moving water as well. People in Cordova will fish them from float tubes in the salt at high tide when they Step 6: Turn the fly on its side. Using Zap Gel, are schooling up to enter the river, and folks target them in Kodiak put a small dot in the eye socket and set in the lakes where their migrations end. your eye. Using a little UV resin, cover the The most common fly we sell for this is a ’Wog pattern made eye and cure with UV light. This will help from spun deer hair and foam; we sell tons of them in the month keep the eyes in place better. Rotate the fly of August to folks coming to Alaska and locals out targeting silvers. over and repeat on the other side. However, there are few poppers on the market that come in pink Step 3: Slide the head back from the eye and put a small thread and have a hook good enough to land a fresh-from-the-salt coho. base down; then apply a small amount of Zap Gel to the shank While I was in Florida last summer for iCast, I was at a demo- and slide the head back to the hook-eye. This will help keep the day fishing on bass ponds, seeing and testing new equipment. head in place and from spinning. I stopped into the Flymen booth and there on the table was a bucket full of these new foam popper heads called Double Barrel Poppers. As I looked at these poppers sitting there my head started to spin with ideas for making coho poppers. Finished Double Barrel Popper They had white, yellow, blue and green (all good bass colors) but no pink ones. I asked about getting pink ones made for Step 4: Tie-in your marabou for the tail. I like my tail to be about making topwater flies for salmon, but the length of the hook-shank or slightly shorter. they at the time and still don’t have plans to make a pink popper. So I grabbed some white ones and brought them home Step 1: Using a pink acrylic paint, paint the popper head. Once to paint. the paint has dried, cover it with a clear acrylic or clear nail polish Taking a test drive with one of their flies for durability. on the pond, I knew instantly these would make a great fly for silvers. As you strip this fly, give a good snap down with your wrist at the end of the strip; this makes the head pop all the way out of the water and come down with a splash. I tied a few up and sent them with our Sage rep George Cook to Cordova for a test drive. Upon his return he said they worked great. So here is how we do it; enjoy.

Mike Brown is the owner of Mossy’s Fly Shop Step 2: Using a lighter, heat the tip of your bodkin and push a Step 5: Tie-in your UV Polar Chenille and wrap forward to the in Anchorage, AK, and is a lifelong Alaskan hole through the popper head. There is a starting hole on the back of the head. I typically put a few extra wraps at the end to with a passion for family, fly fishing and backside of the body. build it up a little. Whip finish. fly-tying.

22 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 23 Kokopelli Trailers and Alaska. level of reliability. Kokopelli Trailers has been building world- Custom is a key word at Kokopelli If you look around the Alaska class trailers since 2010 in its Phoenix, Trailers, where they build custom trailers marine marketplace, you might notice AZ, manufacturing facility. Uriah Owsley for the entire marine industry, whether Kokopelli Trailers are making a name Trailering Your Toy owns and operates Kokopelli Trailers and the boats are flat-bottoms, deep Vs, for themselves—for good reasons. Bruce Story by Troy Buzalsky has been in the trailer industry for 18 pontoons, offshore boats, catamarans Petska of Homer, AK, serves as the Alaska years. From its inception, Kokopelli has or even inflatables. For this column, area dealer and sales representative. If There’s no doubt as a boat owner one focused on building premium trailers we’ll discuss their Alaska Edition, made you’re in the market for a new boat of the greatest pleasures is launching with a three-pronged approach: Utilizing for Alaska and the rest of the Pacific trailer, take a look at Kokopelli Trailers at your boat and enjoying a day or even an their experience and expertise, putting Northwest, where extreme use is normal www.kokopellitrailers.com or contact Bruce extended journey navigating the waters an emphasis on attention to detail, and use, and where failure is not an option. All Petska at [email protected]. of your choice. However, to fully enjoy utilizing the highest quality materials Kokopelli Trailers come with a lifetime your boat, it’s essential that you can safely possible. The success of Kokopelli warranty on craftsmanship. Alaska Boat Trailers transport and launch your pleasure craft, Trailers is obvious, as the company Kokopelli Trailers builds all their Owner Kevin Brown has been in and this requires a trailer. is now serving the Mississippi River, trailers from 100% aluminum 6061 the trailer business for 20 years. He Seasoned boaters are all too familiar Canada, Hawaii, Australia, Guam, US T6 Boat I-beam construction, and only specializes in custom, heavy-duty trailers with the importance of a quality trailer Virgin Island, New Zealand, Tahiti employs aluminum and stainless steel Rogue Jet Boatworks builds all-welded aluminum trailers customized for each of from 1- to 5 axles for boats ranging and we have all witnessed or been part hardware. Experience has their boat models. © Rogue Jet Boatworks from 2,600- to 40,000 pounds and of having a day ruined due to trailer shown that most aluminum excels at big trailers. They are available problems. Wheel bearing failure and tire trailers fail due to weld allows the I-beam to parallel the tongue, are available in either surge or electric in galvanized steel and aluminum, and issues tend to be the most problematic, failure. To remedy this and effectively sandwiching the tongue within over hydraulic, and Kokopelli used are custom built for each buyer. Trailers with trailer brakes, tongues and latches, assure the strongest trailer the I-beam channel for added strength. DeeMaxx Disc Brakes exclusively. Trailer are usually completed in 6- to 8 weeks. and lighting systems all very capable of on the market Kokopelli Because the trailers are 100% bolted bunks, like everything else, are custom Contact Kevin at 907-632-1759 or joining in. has engineered a “no-weld” together, field repairs are simple, with to the boat; however, Kokopelli uses an [email protected], and check Care and maintenance are important, assembly system, utilizing no cutting, grinding or welding. In fact, aluminum bunk with a rubberized non- out his website at alaskaboattrailers.com. of course, but equally important is the U-bolts, stainless and most repairs can be made with a 3/4-inch skid pad, which nicely supports the hull trailer in question. This column is going to aluminum hardware, and or 9/16-inch socket. and does not absorb or hold moisture, Rogue Jet Boatworks look at a unique, made-for-Alaska trailers nylock fasteners. Kokopelli Trailers utilize Dexter torsion reducing saltwater corrosion concerns. All Bruce Wassom, the President and manufactured for today’s boater, along To create a trailer with axles, and all hubs are equipped with a Alaska Edition Kokopelli Trailers receive CEO of Rogue Jet Boatworks, was the with a few tips, tricks and techniques to incredible tongue strength, Bearing Buddy system. Torsion axles bolt the full saltwater performance upgrade founding father of Jetcraft Boats in the keep you on the water rather than on the Kokopelli Trailers builds all their trailers from 100% the I-beam sides use a directly to the I-beam frame and offer true to safeguard critical components against early 1980s. Shortly thereafter he started roadside shoulder this boating season. aluminum. © Kokopelli Trailers double-bend system, which independent suspension. Trailer brakes rust and corrosion while offering a greater Rogue Jet Boatworks, manufacturing

24 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 25 custom all-welded heavy-gauge jet- and Robblees’ is your one-stop source for ‘that guy’ on the side of the road with a outboard-configured boats out of White truck, trailer and tire shop supplies in wheel bearing issue. City, OR. Today Rogue Jet builds Alaska and throughout the Northwest. The Liqua-Lube system is essentially approximately 80 boats per year, but the Friendly, knowledgeable staff members a sealed oil-bath bearing lubrication company doesn’t stop there, as they also aim to provide the best service and system that gives visual proof that your provide all-welded aluminum trailers assistance. You’ll find trailer axles, bearings are being lubricated via the customized for each model of boat. bearings, brakes, hubs, hitches, jacks, transparent sight window. If you see Using 3/16-inch-thick framing truck and ATV lights and a whole oil present, you can be assured your that is custom-made for Rogue Jet by lot more at Six Robblees’. With two bearings are being lubricated. The system an aluminum factory, the bunks and locations in Anchorage, one in Wasilla also eliminates dirt and moisture, two sides of their Guardian boat trailer and one in Fairbanks, you’ll have access culprits that cause premature bearing are aluminum with UHMW overlay. to tires and trailer parts if needed in an failure. The trailers feature all LED lights and emergency but you are better off pre- Conversion from a typical grease offer Torflex torsion in their tandem- planning and following these tips and system to a Liqua-Lube system is easy axle trailers, with four-wheel disc surge tricks. and takes less than an hour per axle. brakes. Other features include oil bath The parts include clear sight-window “vault” hubs, dual-wheel tongue jack, Tips, Tricks, and Techniques caps, spring-loaded seals, stainless steel galvanized or aluminum mag rims for Instead of reminding our readers spindle sleeves, cap seals and O-rings, the tires and aluminum diamond plate of the importance of wheel bearing stainless hardware and marine friendly fenders that are standard on all of the maintenance, or checking your tires, we biodegradable liquid lubricant. Of trailers. will review a few different wheel bearing course, it’s always good to start with Rogue Jet welded aluminum trailers components, along with a discussion fresh bearings. Visit www.liqualube.com average between 700- and 750 pounds about brakes and tires. to learn more. lighter than all-steel trailers, providing better fuel economy for the tow vehicle. Liqua-Lube Bearing Buddy – The Original To learn more visit www.roguejet.com. The first time I saw a marine axle using If you own a boat or pull any trailer, Clockwise from top left: Stacks of axles at the ready. © Troy Buzalsky. Preventing bearing failure like this is the goal of all boat a Liqua-Lube system I was quickly there’s little doubt you’ve both heard of owners. © Troy Buzalsky. Roadside failure…again. © Troy Buzalsky. The Liqua-Lube system is a sealed bearing-lubrication Six Robblees’ curious and it took no time at all before and used a Bearing Buddy; they’ve been system that offers visual proof that your bearings are being lubricated via the transparent sight window. © Liqua-Lube. The Trailer and tire maintenance should be I switched my boat trailer over from a safeguarding bearings since 1963. Liqua-Lube Lubrication System is environmentally-friendly and retrofits to almost any size hub. © Liqua-Lube. a high priority to Alaska’s outdoorsmen standard grease system to Liqua-Lube. The Bearing Buddy system is running up and down the highway to Of course, it was following a roadside relatively simple. A standard wheel hub their fishing and hunting spots. Six repair where I pledged I’d never again be is fitted with a Bearing Buddy, which includes an internal piston, spring and grease fitting. The axle hub is filled with grease via the cap-mounted grease zirk, and voilà, your bearings are greased. Lubricant level and pressure can be checked easily by pressing on the edge of the moveable piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. It’s also important to know, all Bearing Buddy systems come equipped with an automatic pressure relief feature that prevents overfilling and over- pressurization. Installation of a Bearing Buddy is as simple as maintenance. Starting with fresh bearings, pack your new bearings with marine-friendly grease, and remember, for optimum performance never mix grease types. Inspect or replace inner seals and confirm the spindle sealing surface is smooth (this often gets gouged up after a bearing failure). Hold the Bearing Buddy against the hub with a small block of wood and drive it into place with a hammer. Once seated, you have a functional Bearing Buddy system that should last a lifetime. Visit www.bearingbuddy.com to learn more.

Posi-lube Axles You maybe have never heard of them, but you could already own a trailer with 26 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 27 off-center. The off-centered input is much easier. engineered by design, routing the grease Disc brakes also out-perform their to the rear bearings first, greasing the drum-brake equivalent. Disc-brake bearings from the back forward while calipers are self-adjusting, which pushing out the old grease from the eliminates unequal braking. Discs front. The design allows you to easily perform better in wet and dirty know when you have your system environments…a perfect solution for greased and is great at the beginning of marine applications. Disc brakes are also the season, creating a visual indicator less prone to brake-fade or to premature when new grease is throughout the brake lockup or wheel skid. bearings. The design also reduces the If you have a drum-brake system, chances of rear-seal failure, which leads a disc-brake conversion is fairly to several problems including brake straightforward and simple, even for the failure. For more information visit DIY guy. Kodiak Trailer provided one- www.rockwellamerican.com. stop shopping when I converted from drums to discs. You can learn more at Disc Brakes www.kodiaktrailer.com. For trailers, especially marine trailers, maintenance is a key factor to enjoying Tires the boat of your dreams. Brakes, like There are many factors that affect tire Your boat is for the water, so it’s essential that boat owners practice proper care bearings and other trailer components, life, including expected lifespan. Sun, and maintenance of their trailers. © Troy Buzalsky require care and maintenance, but disc UV light, moisture and heat all wreak brakes can help alleviate some of the havoc on today’s tires. For these reasons, routine maintenance. the tire industry recommends replacing a Posi-lube system. Just because you than any other grease zerk axle system; Disc brakes have fewer moving parts tires, regardless of wear and tear, every have a grease zerk on the end of your add the grease to the zerk and your than their drum counterparts, which 6- to 10 years. axle does not necessarily mean you have bearings will be greased. In simple is genius. A typical drum brake has as Matching the tire to the trailer is a a Bearing Buddy or similar system. Posi- terms, this is correct, but how Posi-lube many as 11 moving parts, whereas the must. Every tire has a load range, and lube axles made by Rockwell American systems work is different and worth disc system has only one: the caliper. The trailer tires are no different. Marked on are quite popular in the trailer world, understanding. entire caliper can be removed without the tire’s sidewall, the load range runs especially the marine industry. The first thing you will notice ona removing the hub, which makes field from the lightest weight the tire can The premise of Posi-lube is no different Posi-lube system is the grease zerk is repairs as well as routine maintenance carry (Load Range B) to the heaviest (Load Range E). Most boat trailer tires have a load range of B, C or D. If a tire has Load Range C, it can carry 1,820 pounds. If it’s on a single-axle trailer, this means both tires can carry a total of 3,640 pounds, which includes the weight of the trailer, the boat, the engine, fuel and anything else inside the boat. Another note: The ST designation means Special Trailer tire. ST tires are designed for use on trailer axles and are not suited for drive axles. They have strengthened sidewalls to prevent the tire from rolling under the rim in turns and when cornering. All ST tires have a rated speed limit of 65 MPH and are designed to meet the higher load requirements and demands of trailer towing. When it comes to having a spare tire, that’s a no brainer. A great trick I learned after one too many bearing failures is to also carry a spare trailer hub assembly, pre-greased and ready to go. I store mine on my spare, so it’s always ready. This simple and inexpensive trick pays huge dividends in the field should you ever have a bearing failure.

Troy A. Buzalsky is a contributing editor for Fish Alaska magazine. 28 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 29 herring off between the hooks. I swapped out the 4-ounce trolling weights for 2-ounce crescents, hooked on fresh herring, plug-cut for a rakish fast spin, and lowered the baits into the boil Wake Up Those Silvers directly behind the outboard. Two strips Story and photo by of line and that was it. I don’t think we Terry W. Sheely trolled another 30 feet before Natalie’s rod There isn’t eight feet between the whirling pounded down. The silver was hooked prop on the kicker motor and the herring deep and solidly and after the requisite bait spinning in the prop bubbles when runs, leaps, dives and line-wrapping spins, the silver slashes up and bites hard on the it was in the boat. That’s one. run. Line flies off the reel, which is already The second came just as fast. almost in free-spool and it isn’t until Our extreme short-line tactic turned the the 12-pound predator hangs a left and day around and transformed frustration smokes out of the wake that I get a tight into a fish box fat with red fillets. line. No worries about the hook-set—the The explanation that I’ve been given, and silver rammed it deep on the strike. have never found reason to doubt, was that Gotta love short-lining and wake-fishing silvers are attracted to the cavitation chaos for autumn silvers. of bubbles and boils behind the props. That silvers, especially at midseason, Possibly, they mistake the disturbance for a often ride in the wake bubbles of a trolling frenzy of baitfish, possibly feeding salmon. motor with their noses practically under Who really knows what a salmon thinks? the keel is a peculiarity that I’ve leaned to The important thing is that silvers home love. Rarely is the lure/fly/bait more than in on prop-wash like addicts to a Use this trick to help nudge tight-lipped 10 feet behind the boat, strikes are vicious free crab feed, and they come in aggressive silvers into action. and if you’re not on your toes, the fish win. and ready to eat. off completely or feed line into the foam I’ve been short-lining in the wake froth On the day of frustration, I found that on complete free-spool. A high-speed for almost 20 years and it just keeps getting if I stripped out two pulls of line, that’s less backlash at 20 feet is horrific. A backlash at better, especially if I’m on a boat with other than six feet, I hooked fish. Strip out five six feet is a knife project. The second don’t- anglers who are streaming out 60- to 100 pulls and nothing. Those fish were kissing do is never extreme short-line with a tight feet of flat-line behind the boat or running my prop and if the bait wasn’t flashing drag. At two yards a 10-pound silver will downriggers deep. Almost invariably right in their faces they never saw it. There’s pop a tight 20-pound mainline in a single they will be fishing behind or under something about those wake bubbles that thrash. most silvers. pulls the trigger on silver aggressiveness. While it’s tempting to forego the The first eye-opening I had was ona It’s a technique that has worked just as weights, I find that I need a little weight charter boat out of Westport, WA. Several well with coho flies on a fly rod. I’ll add a (1- to 2 ounces) to control the lure or bait old-timers scrambled to the bow, while the few split-shot a couple of feet in front of in the tumbling cavitation boil. I want my rest of us took up “prime” rail slots at the the fly for control, feed it over the transom offering to dart but I also need it to sink back of the boat. The skipper would slide about as far as the rod is long and hang on. slightly and provide enough resistance that the boat in and out of gear on a slow troll, Flies, herring, trolling spoons, I have some line control. and the first, second and third hookups spinners—doesn’t matter. Keep it in the I favor thin, laser-sharpened hooks that predictably went to the guys in the bow. cavitation turbulence where everything penetrate deep and quick without setting Turns out they were streaming their cut- bounces, skitters and darts and where the hook, and if the factory hasn’t done it, plug herring under the boat and holding it silvers don’t waste time inspecting the I use pliers to slightly offset the bend and in place just behind the transom. offerings. They see it; they eat it—before hook-point from aligning with the shank. That’s where the fish were, nudging it disappears. This offset action provides an indirect pull up against the prop wash, while we The toughest caveat to extreme short- that fish have a tough time shaking and a fished yards behind them, picking off the lining is rod, reel and drag control. wider bite gap for deeper penetration. Tru- occasional follower. The guys in the bow When you hit a 7- to 17-pound coho on Turn hooks held an edge on this concept knew what they were doing. six feet of tight 20-pound line, something for years and it’s been followed by most of I’ve used that trick hundreds of times has to give and that something should be the major hook manufacturers. since, and almost always with excellent the line. I back off the drag to where I can Hook color is not as important, I find, in results. easily pull out line but not enough that the chaos and boil of extreme short-lining My wife and I were trolling plug-cut line spills or the spool spins. I set the hook as it is in the more traditional systems, but herring behind hot red 4-ounce crescent by momentarily thumbing the spool, and whenever silvers are the question, I find sinkers, sans flasher, 60 feet behind the16- I mean momentarily. Hold your thumb on that red hooks are often the answer. foot kicker boat, and we were getting the spool and two nasty things happen: big Wake up those silvers this autumn— whacked whenever I lined up the trolling blister and break-off. you’ll love it! path just right. Whacks but no bonks. Anglers a little less than adept at spool- Two-fish on, two-fish off; six-fish on, thumbing can substitute a wee bit more six-fish off. It couldn’t have been more drag and flick on the reel clicker so there’s Terry W. Sheely is a contributing frustrating. a touch of resistance when the fish bolts. editor for Fish Alaska magazine and Either the silvers came unbuttoned on The line should be taut but not tight. can be reached through his website at the first barbless jump, or they sucked the Whatever you do don’t back the drag www.tnscommunications.net. 30 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 31 pressure on long-running fish, and though Warning Track, however, takes the idea a they still cause some curling of the fly line little further. The Warning Track method if the reel isn’t used for a long time, the curls of spooling your backing for a reel like the The Warning Track are much looser and the line fishes better as Redington Rise 5/6 is simply this: Story and photo by George Krumm a result. However, there is one area in which Wind 20 yards of 20-pound-test Dacron Almost 30 years ago—shortly after my these reels suffer in comparison to my old onto your spool. obsession for stillwater fishing reached stage System 2Ls. Attach 40-pound-test Spectra line (I 4 proportions—I scraped up some dough To make a reel that is larger in diameter use PowerPro Super 8 Slick in blue) to the and bought what at the time was the most (large arbor) requires more metal. To keep Dacron with a Double-Uni knot and wind expensive fly reel I’d ever purchased. In weight down is an engineering challenge, and on 80 yards of it. all honesty, it is possible that student-loan the way most manufacturers have gone over Attach 20 more yards of 20-pound-test dollars paid for that reel, but regardless, I had the years is to cut out a lot of the unnecessary Dacron to the Spectra with another Double- my first of many Scientific Anglers System metal, and to reduce backing capacity. Uni knot. 2L size 6/7 fly reels. It seemed so smooth, so I recently bought four of the third- The end result of this is an increase in compact and yet so sturdy—and it was a cast, generation Redington Rise reels in size backing capacity to 120 yards. I’m happy not machined, reel. It cost a whopping $120 5/6. They are beautiful, gleaming pieces of with that. Note that this is for stillwater reels. or so, and the System 2L line was readily machined fly-fishing art, yet fairly tough, For Spey reels or salmon fly reels, George available for 20 years, maybe more. You can with an effective, wide-ranging drag that I puts 25 yards of 30-pound-test Dacron on still find new ones today. The spool was less believe will prove to be better than my old both ends of the Warning Track, with 150 than three inches in diameter, and less than System 2Ls. However, in one area I was yards of 50-pound-test Spectra in between. an inch wide. Yet it held a whopping 150 disappointed. I assumed I’d be able to spool The Warning Track does more than just yards of 20-pound Dacron backing with a these reels up with 100- to 125 yards of increase your backing capacity. It also serves WF6F line. I fished these reels for at least 20 20-pound-test Dacron. Wrong! I couldn’t as a visual aid, letting you know about how years, and I still own six or seven of them. quite get 100 yards of backing on the reel far a fish has run into your backing. When There is nothing wrong with them; it’s just with a WF5F fly line. What’s worse, I fish you see/feel the first Double-Uni go racing that newer, lighter reels having beneficial 6-weight rods a lot, and with a 6-weight I through the rod guides, you know that fish features the System 2L’s didn’t have began to think I might have been able to get 75 yards is 20 yards into the backing. You know there come into the marketplace. on with a WF6I line. I actually cut some of are 80 yards of Spectra plus 20 more yards Today, we now get fairly light reels that are the running line portion of the fly line off to of Dacron to go. If you have a fish run far machined, and thus arguably stronger, with make this happen. I tried to start over and enough that the second knot goes through better drag materials and most importantly, wind tighter several times, but in the end, the guides, you better be chasing that fish, larger arbors for about the same price (in though the reel is extremely capable, it just as you only have 20 yards of backing before today’s dollars). Large arbors allow for much doesn’t hold as much backing as I want. I’ve a broken line and broken heart becomes faster line pickup, more consistent drag had fish in Alaska’s lakes run off close to 75 your reality. Personally, I will be chasing long yards of line, possibly more. The thought of before I get to that second Uni knot. If a fish losing a mid-30s ’bow because I ran out of gets that far away from you in one of our backing is a horrific idea. Plus, sometimes lakes, you’re probably doomed. my 6-weights do double-duty on the Kenai, To sum it up, George Cook’s Warning and I definitely want more than 75 yards of Track backing system increases backing backing there. capacity and enhances fish-fighting I recently had a conversation with George situational awareness. I plan to do this with Cook and we discussed the capacity issue. He all my fly reels eventually. If you use today’s explained that most of the reel manufacturers large arbor reels and chase big, big fish have shrunk backing capacities during the that are capable of running a long distance transition from standard arbor to large (such as in the Mat-Su lakes, Kenai River, arbors. I whined a little about this. George, Nushagak River, etc.), the Warning Track is ever the gentleman, patiently explained his for you. solution for this situation. He called it “The The warning track method greatly Warning Track.” increases backing capacity and It’s simple, really. I’d thought about going George Krumm is a contributing editor for improves your situational awareness to all-Spectra backing to create capacity, as it Fish Alaska magazine and can be reached at for fish that run into the backing. is smaller in diameter than Dacron. George’s [email protected].

32 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 33 34 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 35 Chrome Chilkoot River sockeye are just one of the highlights of a midsummer visit to Haines. A Rare Drive-In Destination to a Pair of Accessible via highway, Haines offers Southeast Salmon Rivers, with picturesque scenery alongside fresh- and saltwater fishing Saltwater Options, Calendar opportunities that remain under the radar when compared with Scenery, Back-Country many other top Alaska Adventures and the World’s destinations.

Best Hammer Museum just a couple of hundred yards above saltwater and these pinks is Skagway, on the other (east) side of Lynn Canal. The two are A chrome sockeye is turning cartwheels were bright, feisty and pulled hard in the current. There are far connected by an Alaska State Ferry that shuttles vehicles across the through the boulders in front of my fly rod, more reds than pinks, though. At least 3,000 reds swam past our canal, linking highways on both sides. That Haines can be driven and I’m trying hard to ignore the trio of waders just while we fished, according to fish counters at the weir to makes it special enough in Alaska’s Southeast where towns are grizzlies walking the edge of the Chilkoot downstream. More than 60,000 will make it before the run ends. remote and isolated by saltwater, ice fields and roadless forests, and River behind me slurping salmon parts and Greg runs The Expedition Broker and Fly Guides based in it takes a floatplane or boat to get to most places. startling distracted fishermen. Haines, (www.expeditionbroker.com) and had agreed to show Jim Highway access isn’t Haines’ only upside, I’m discovering, and “Forget the bears,” Greg shouts through and I the fish side of “The Adventure Capital of Alaska.” a lot of it has to do with understated fresh- and saltwater fishing, the loud mumble of water surging over and The man knows his fishing. two rivers you’ve likely never heard of and the town’s penchant for around big rocks, “they’re here everyday. The afternoon wade in the Chilkoot has been an eye-opening adventure. Don’t bother anybody.” surprise—one of many I’m to have in the next few days. Less touristy than Skagway, Haines sits on the west edge of I’m thinking they bother the woman Haines is a folksy town of 2,400 built on a wedge of land upper Lynn Canal, North America’s deepest (2,000 feet) fjord, who’s fishing from the bank upriver. between two salmon rivers, at the head of a fjord, surrounded with killer views, a waterfront that stares up at two ice-capped When she turns, she sees the approaching by ice-streaked peaks. It’s one of only two towns in Southeast mountain ranges, along a sea-to-icefield highway, on a wedge of brownies, screeches, leaps into the river, with year-round highway connections to the outside. The other land between two rivers with salmon, trout and char, just a short splash-crashes across the current and ducks behind a boulder. Greg tries to reassure her; the bears are regulars and used to fishermen—even those who leap into moving water. She isn’t buying it. The current is stout, the water too colored to see rocks on the bottom, and about the fourth time I stumble over a rock I can’t see, while trying to get a rod angle on the running red, I wish I’d picked up a beaver cutting for a staff. This red is giving me a wild ride on the 8-weight fly rod and may be winning. Four, or was it five, times it leaps clear of the water, and when it leaps I lay the rod over and hold tight. “Most guys lose reds on that jump,” Greg laughs. It was close. The fish runs a mean rodeo around the boulders and down the chutes. I get the running line and fat full-sink casting line on the reel, put some bend in the rod and when the salmon finally splashes into Greg’s net it’s spent. I keep it. Bright red fillets for the BBQ. According to ADF&G, for reds and pinks “the Chilkoot is one of the most popular freshwater fisheries in Southeast.” Anglers are allowed six reds and six pinks a day. Greg Schlachter, Jim Goerg and I Dolly Varden char and several pinks that were coming upstream simultaneously with the run of reds. All were big, flat-sided humpies. We are fishing

36 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 37 to feast on spawning coho famed Chilkoot Trail of Klondike Gold way out the door. the ADF&G weir just downstream from from the third largest silver Rush fame. The Chilkoot is short and shallow but where we’re fishing, a one-day record. salmon run in Southeast. We crossed to Haines on the state ferry wide with a deceptively strong current and We waded into the stout flow and stake also run and settled in for a couple of days at Hitch bottom studded with boulders that create out casting positions. Jim nails first fish, a thick in the fall and in Up RV Park alongside Highway 7— countless pockets, runs, eddies, seams and feisty Dolly Varden, then another. A few mid-summer native kings the Haines Highway. Leaving town, the channels for the salmon to sift through. reds are rolling, but most are invisible in stack in saltwater at the highway rides the edge of Chilkat River, Depending on the week of the summer the the silt-colored water. Chilkat mouth. Our small passes a bald eagle preserve and continues river is a funnel for Chinook, coho, sockeye, I’m using an 8-weight fly rod with plane from Juneau dipped into 150 miles of National Scenic Byway a few chums and lots of pink salmon, full-sinking line, short stout leader and low over the Chilkat on that wind and climb from saltwater up the cutthroat trout and Dolly Varden char. tippet, with a pink shrimp pattern. Greg approach to the Haines sprawling Chilkat River Valley to Chilkat It connects saltwater in Lutak Bay to the catches two nice Dollies, hooks and loses a landing strip. The water Pass ice fields, tundra and top-of-the-world clear depths of Chilkoot Lake. It’s the home leaping red. was the color of liquid scenery, and then reconnects with the river for Haines anglers and can be crowded I settle in a hundred feet from the bank Haines offers anglers incredible scenery and quality concrete. “Clears in the Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory. when runs are in full gear. We found plenty at the edge of a channel that folds between fishing—a patented Alaska combination. fall when the glaciers quit On that trip we spent an afternoon of room and plenty of sockeye. boulders and swirls into an eddy. Three melting,” Greg assures me, exploring Haines, checking out the Silvers (coho) and reds (sockeye) are the good salmon zones are in front of me and run from king salmon and halibut spots. “and that’s when we fish.” Chilkoot River and lake, drove south to Chilkoot’s big draws. The river has two I can cover all of them with one cast and That’s in addition to the town lake, 3.6 Greg and Leslie Ross were on the the state park along Lynn Canal, poked runs of reds averaging around 60,000 fish. drift. It takes awhile to figure the drift and miles of turquoise water 300 feet deep, tarmac at the small airport when our through the tackle aisles at Outfitter The number of silvers pales in comparison, swing and when I do I get a sharp rap and a with reds, pinks, Dollies and occasional Alaska Seaplanes twin-prop arrived. The Sporting Goods and wondered about a hitting about 2,000 fish in September- miss. A few casts later I tickle a red with the cutthroat, plus a DNR campground boat low-level flight north from Juneau was town that would boast about a museum of There is reliable halibut action available October. Although the coho run is small sunken line. The startled fish charges out ramp and reputation for feeding half the simply awesome, flying above Lynn Canal 1,700 hammers. near Haines during midsummer. the river is easy to fish, only a little over a of the water and thrashes manically across town with red salmon. Tlingit tribesmen between ragged mountain ranges capped Last August, after hearing rumors of great mile long, and it’s famous for producing the surface. On several casts, I feel the line called Chilkoot Lake, Tschilkut See or with ice and streaked with glaciers, over red and silver fishing, with the possibility We checked in at Captain’s Choice Hotel, giants—many pushing 20 pounds. brush scales, but triggering a strike is tough. “big fish.” roadless wildernesses and remote small of halibut and maybe king salmon, I came threw our duffle into rooms overlooking It’s the first week of August. We’re too Finally, the swing stops; I feel weight The lake pushes up a long mountain rivers and creeks that beg to be fished. back for a second look. Lynn Canal and the boat harbor and headed late for the July kings, too early for the late and strike. valley at the end of the winding Lukat- My first impressions of Haines came a Leslie directs the Haines Convention and for the Chilkoot. Greg assured us he had all August-September-October silvers, but Other anglers on the river around us Chilkoot River Road from town. The road couple of years earlier and were skewed as Visitor Bureau and had put together our the fish gear we needed, including waders right on time for the pinks and second run were about evenly split between spinning parallels and provides pullover access to all just another heli-hopping, backcountry, itinerary that included river fishing with and fly rods. When it comes to salmon of sockeye. The first run of sockeye arrives and fly gear. Standard spinning fare was 1.6 short miles of the Chilkoot River. river-running adventure town. There Greg and saltwater fishing with Dorothy rivers Jim, however, has a lot more faith in in late June and early July, the second in small reddish spinners, spoons and fresh On the other side of town the local brag is were four of us detouring south off an McConnell on 1st Choice Charters, which painted steel than dyed yarn and grabbed early August. A signboard at the river eggs. Fly-rodders used shrimp patterns, red the Chilkat River and the 3,500 bald eagles Alaska Highway RV adventure primarily has since been renamed Kracken Charters. his spinning rod and a box of lures on the proclaims that yesterday 13,000 reds passed streamers and bits of red sponge that could that crowd onto the sweeping gravel bars to see Skagway and leave tracks on the Greg was eager to get us on the water.

38 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 39 and casting positions. One of the hottest chum holes, I’m told, is that slot I stared down into on the landing approach to the airport. Greg tells me that the silt-grayed Chilkat drops and clears when cold weather caps the mountain runoff in October and November, creating an immediate sharp uptick in roadside salmon action. Leslie treats us to dinner at the funky Pilotlight, a farm-to-table restaurant specializing in homemade sourdoughs, locally grown veggies, seafood and Alaska game. The salmon cakes were good, the calamari platter emptied on the first pass around the table and the bacon-wrapped venison loin was worth the trip. Back in town we pass the celebrated Haines Hammer Museum. Tough to miss it, with the 20-foot claw hammer rising from the front yard. “We have hammers of every shape, size and origin,” is the come-on. As much as I enjoy a good hammering, I’m here to fish and am not too disappointed when the sign on the door says closed for the day. We celebrated Day One at the Port Chilkoot Distillery, sampling their latest Boatwright Bourbons and called it a day. Tomorrow we fish saltwater with Dorothy McConnell. Tonight, I lean on the railing outside my room, watch boats sort through the harbor and the alpenglow light up the Kakuhan Mountains across the fjord south of Skagway. Dorothy is waiting at the boat with skipper Zeke Frank when we get to the harbor dock. Three more guests are arriving. The 27-foot cabin boat is rigged At top, the tools of the trade sit ready for battle with Haines-area for halibut and ready. Her charter service, silvers. At left, the author up close 1st Choice Charters, was one of two in the and personal with his day’s catch. harbor. The other was iFishHaines. Shortly At right, variety is one of the treats after Dorothy showed us her Haines for saltwater anglers. halibut honey holes she sold the operation which has been renamed Kracken Charters (www.catchthekraken.com). This area of upper Lynn Canal lies in a 2,000-foot-deep furrow between steep mountain ranges. It’s a gorgeous piece be scented for egg appeal. River kings are also being fished south of of water but can produce winds that will Back at the truck, we ice fresh reds and Haines at Chilkat Inlet and can produce send boats into the pucker-brush. The watch brown bears shuffle through the some beautiful fish. This run, however, upper canal gets a weak run of Chilkat scrub alders between us and the river, while has been hard hit by ocean conditions, kings, but from late May through mid- Greg extols the excitement of hitting mid- according to ADF&G, and has been ‘weak’ June anglers will also be targeting hatchery teen to 20-pound silvers in this same water since 2011. spawner Chinook released as smolts from starting next month. Twenty-pound silvers Now it’s the late fall—September/ Skagway. To get back to Skagway the on the fly: Maybe I’ll come back. October—runs of silvers and chums in salmon first must pass Haines. The king The Chilkoot attracts a small run of clearing water that locals wait for on the salmon hatchery program is a closing story, king salmon in May and June that are banks of the Chilkat. Lots of freezers are but ADF&G expects the run to support a a mix of wild and hatchery Chinook. A filled with bright Chilkat silvers and chums decent May-June Chinook fishery for the Chinook enhancement program has been and coho are caught as late as February, next two years. abandoned, according to ADF&G and according to ADF&G. The agency operates In August, saltwater anglers target either kings place a distant fifth on a ladder led fish wheels to monitor the runs. silvers or halibut and we’re too early for by reds, pinks, silvers and chums in that The Chilkat is big enough to be fished silvers. Dorothy points the boat into the order. Chilkoot king fishing takes place in by jet boats or drifted in rafts but also fishes sun rising over the Kakuhans and turns the saltwater primarily around Lutak Inlet. well from the bank. The shoulder of the south toward a river delta called South When Chilkoot kings show, Chilkat Haines Highway is lined with pullovers Katzhlein Flats. We anchor in 152 feet of

40 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 41 At top, the area’s coastal brown bears also enjoy the fishing as the salmon return to Haines. Bottom: A dime-bright Chilkoot River .

water, drop a variety of baits to the bottom This isn’t one of those days. and wait. Good halibut fishing here, she It’s a good day to be on the water, says. Zeke nods. regardless. Sun, blue sky, glaciers, I’m fishing with a pound of lead and a mountains, flat water, good company. In plastic squid rigged upside-down so the a few hours, I’ll be sitting in the sun back tentacles make the bait appear larger than it in town, sipping an Eldred Rock Red with really is. Others along the railings are trying Leslie at Haines Brewing, thinking about herring and slabs of cut bait. We jig. the scenic flight back to Juneau, wondering One other boat is anchored in the how the red bite is going on the Chilkoot distance. “Couple of days ago we hit a and thinking I should come back in bunch of halibut here,” Dorothy says. October for the Chilkat River silver slam. “Did okay yesterday, too.” Today we catch I like the fishy side of Haines. A flounder, pollock, bullheads and a small surprisingly good place to stop and fish black cod. Later, Jim will catch one of the when you’re cruising the only highway largest, ugliest sculpin I’ve seen. from outside into Southeast. The halibut bite, though, is dead. On the flats, behind an island, inside a peninsula— everywhere we try. We fish hard, switch out baits, try different areas, depths, bottoms, tides. It’s halibut-dead in Lynn Canal. It Terry W. Sheely is a contributing editor for Fish happens. I believe her when she tells me Alaska magazine and can be reached through about good halibut days. She’s got pictures. his website at www.tnscommunications.net.

42 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 43 Back-trolling for trout and Dollies is suspending a fly under a bobber and drifting a fun and effective way to catch it naturally with the current. fish—especially when salmon Of course, you can very easily and effectively smolt are present. do the same thing with spinning gear, with a few modifications. To start, choose a rod that’s longer than normal. More length gives you extra line-lifting capabilities, so go with the longest stick you can get away with. On dinky, overgrown creeks, a 5-footer may be all you need but a 9- to 10-foot rod can be perfect on larger streams and rivers. You don’t need anything particularly fancy in the reel department besides a quality unit with a smooth drag. What you put on the reel is perhaps the most critical element to the whole game. Braided line is, absolutely, without hesitation, the only way to go. First off, braid floats, which makes it much easier to pick-up off the water than mono—a huge plus. It’s also memory-free and very small compared to monofilament. With braid, you can get 10-pound breaking strength in a 2-pound, stealthy and extremely easy- casting diameter. Of course, you’ll need to attach a leader to the end of the braided stuff. I like a 3- to 6-foot section of 6- to 12-pound fluorocarbon (depending on the situation) knotted to the mainline via a Double Albright knot. Add a fixed float such as a Thill Turbo Master up the line and you are in business. In heavy water, you may need to add one or more split-shot up the line to make sure your offering stays down. What you hang under your float depends on location and time of year. For example, beads and egg patterns are great when there are a lot of salmon around. Later in the year, flesh flies work well. In the early season or on streams that don’t have spawning salmon, Employ some scaled-down steelhead- standard nymphs such as Stoneflies, Hare’s style techniques to catch nice Ears, Zug Bugs, caddis imitations and the like rainbows like this Togiak River beauty. will get bit. I also like small 3-inch plastic worm jigs in pink or 1/32- to 1/16-ounce lead-head marabou jigs in olive, black, purple or pink. While float fishing is fairly simple, it takes practice. The trick to this whole game is to get the float to drift naturally in the current with as little line drag as possible—AKA the “drag-free drift.” Imagine there’s a nice slot on the far side of the creek you’re fishing. When you cast, the Alaska’s rainbows, cutthroat and Dollies are perfect fish for the fly rod— bait lands perfectly in the slot, but there’s a lot they’re willing biters, great fighters and readily available. But what if you’re of line on the water between the rod tip and not proficient with fluff-chucking gear? Are you out of luck? Absolutely the float. The current pushes a bow in the line, not! You can catch a bunch of fish and have a blast doing it with scaled- which starts dragging your float downstream down steelhead techniques on light traditional gear. too quickly. Instead of drifting lazily along I came into some of these “mini steelhead”-style methods for catching with the current, your bait suddenly looks like trout and char out of boredom—when the fishing was so hot that I set the it’s jet-propelled. In most cases, if the bait is fly rod down and tried something else just for variety’s sake. Others were moving faster than the current’s speed, the fish born of necessity—when the fish were not receptive to flies or times when will ignore or even swim away from it. conditions warranted the use of conventional gear. In any case, they are all Conversely, back eddies, slack-water spots fun and productive and allow non-fly anglers a chance to catch some fish. behind boulders and other dead patches in the current can also work against you by pulling Float Fishing the line upstream. When you get an uphill Indicator nymphing with a fly rod is one of the preferred methods for catching trout bow in the line, the float will slow down too and Dolly Varden in Alaska. It may sound complicated, but it’s just a fancy term for much or even stop. This causes the bait to ride too high and again, the fish won’t have

44 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 45 Pulling small plugs can produce Very similar to indicator incredible take-downs—and some nymphing with a fly rod, fishing darned nice fish. a jig and bobber rig is a great way to catch a bunch of fish with spinning gear.

anything to do with it. access smaller creeks with a pontoon boat, Line control is the key to getting your pram or even on foot in tiny waters. And, bait to work through a spot at the proper there’s a pretty good bet that wherever you speed. Use the rod tip to lift the line between do it, the fish have never seen the lures you’re you and the float off the water. In most presenting to them! situations, you’ll be lifting straight up and As with back-trolling for larger species, you away (upstream) from the float. The current want to run the lures the same distance behind can’t push or pull on the line if it is high and the boat—generally 30- to 60 feet, depending dry. The lifting motion should be as slow and on the size of the stream and water clarity. You steady as possible. Go too quickly and you’ll can keep tabs on how much line you have out impart a herky-jerky motion to the float and by counting passes of the level-wind eye as it bait. Again, we’re trying to make the offering travels back and forth across the spool of your look as if it’s not attached to some line and a reel or by placing fluorescent bobber-stops on ’bows crazy! human on the other end. your line at a pre-measured spot. You can achieve the same presentation on The size of the fish, water temperature and Once the lures are in the drink and swimming foot in small creeks without a boat. Find a speed of the current will determine the way a properly, work them slowly downstream at good-looking piece of holding water and get trout or char takes a float down. Sometimes about half the speed of the current. What’s into position as far upstream of it as you can. the only indication that a fish has picked up really nice about this technique is that it allows Try to stay in a crouch to avoid spooking the your bait will be a slight hesitation in the you to back your bugs into those hard-to-reach fish and be careful not to dislodge any silt that progress of the float. Other times, the float places under cutbanks and overhanging wood will cloud up the hole. When you’re above will bounce two or three times. Generally and into the heart of boulder gardens—areas the spot, drop your plug into the current. speaking, it will disappear completely and that don’t get touched by other anglers. Flip the anti-reverse switch (I like spinning what you do after that will determine how Again, we’re talking basic back-trolling gear when fishing on foot) and work the lure many fish you land. Jerk the instant you get a here, but there is one variation on the theme slowly downriver by turning your reel handle “bobber down,” and you’ll pull the bait away that seems to work wonders for trout and backwards at a snail’s pace. Hold the lure in from the fish more often than not. Ideally, char. When you’ve fished your lures to the place occasionally and even give the reel a upon watching your float go down, you’ll reel downstream edges of a particular spot, don’t forward half-crank every now and then to get up the slack line until you feel tension and immediately reel up and move on. Instead, reel the plug to slightly dart upstream. then set the hook. Easier said than done, of the lures back towards the boat. There are days When you get the plug all the way to the course, especially in the heat of the moment. when this (for some reason) drives the char and tailout, you can slowly crank it back through the run again or reel up and try a different line Pulling Plugs Back-trolling a silver down through the hole. Don’t spend a ton of One of my favorite ways to catch steelhead plug on foot in a time at each spot; when your lure wobbles is to back-troll with wobbling plugs. The way small creek yielded into a small pool, you’ll know pretty quickly a big ocean-fresh fish crushes one of those this nice ’bow. whether or not there’s a fish or two in there. things is epic! Well, you can experience the A quick note on safety: When fishing small same thrill, albeit a bit downsized, by fishing streams, you’re usually walking in the water plugs for resident rainbows, cutthroat and all day long, so always, always, always wear char (where legal by regulation, of course). a wading belt. An inflatable PFD is a really What’s really cool about pulling plugs for good idea also. Even small streams have deep trout is you can do it on all sorts of streams. spots that can get you into trouble, so move It’s highly productive on larger rivers out of slowly and when in doubt, use the tip of that a drift boat or even a sled, but you can also long rod to check the depth before you pass

46 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 47 BOBBER DOGGIN’ Bobber-Doggin’ is extremely popular in the steelhead world. With a few tweaks, it’s awesome for trout and char, too.

through a spot you’re unsure about. bobber will lay flat in the water, with its As far as plug selection goes, there’s a whole brightly pointed top pointing downstream. host of good lures out there on the market. What’s happening here is the sinker is Yakima Bait Co’s MagLip in the 2.0 and 2.5 dragging the bottom and that causes the float sizes are excellent, and good ol’ Hot Shot 50s to slow down and ride nose-downriver. work well, too. K7X Kwikfish, Norman Deep To keep the rig dragging at the proper Tiny Ns, Wally Marshall Crappie Cranks, speed downstream, I like to leave a few feet Matrix Flea Bittys from Shasta Tackle and of line in the water in a slight bow below the Strike King’s Mini 3 are also good selections. bobber. With a little bit of current pushing You can get fancy on the colors but your on the line, the bobber almost acts like a standard gold, silver, pink and copper little boat, towing the gear down the run, patterns are all you really need. I replace the just fast enough to keep the sinker from stock treble hooks with single barbless hooks having a chance to settle into the rocks—but so I can release fish easier. not so quickly that the fish can’t track the bait down. Bobber-Doggin’ When a fish bites, the float will sometimes This method is all the rage in the steelhead quiver and then go down—other times it just world and is an excellent way to cover lots gets violently yanked under. By design, you of water quickly. Its best suited for rivers are going to have a small length of loose line and larger creeks but you can make it work in the water downstream of your bobber. That on smaller waters as well. It’s a slick hybrid means a standard hook-set isn’t going to cut technique that pairs the best attributes of two it. Jerk the rod when you see the bobber go of the most popular river fishing styles: drift fishing and float fishing. In its simplest form, bobber-doggin’ is drift fishing with a bobber. A small piece of pencil lead or a slinky (or split-shot in small streams) is used to get the offering to the bottom, but you also have a slip bobber up the line. The bobber is set deeper than it would be on a traditional suspended rig so that the lead is always in contact with the bottom. Since the lead drags the riverbed with this technique, it would seem that a bobber would be an unnecessary addition to the rig, but it serves two important functions. First, you have a built-in strike indicator, which really helps convert bites into hookups. For beginners, the visual of the bobber getting sucked under is very useful. Secondly, the bobber getting pulled downriver helps the sinker skim, rather than pound, the tops of the rocks, making it less prone to getting hung up. From boat or the shore, cast this rig slightly upstream and allow it to drift freely with the current. If the depth is set correctly, your 48 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 49 down and all you are doing is straightening out the line—and not setting the hook solidly. Instead, remember this little mantra: Reel until you feel. When the bobber dips, crank up the loose line as fast as you can. When it comes tight and you feel some resistance, set the hook! To rig up, start with braided mainline. For trout and char, I generally use 10- to 20-pound-test. Slide a bobber stop up the line—I like the kind that comes in knot form on a small plastic tube. Simply slide the line through the tube, slip the stopper knot onto the mainline, tighten it and then discard the tube. Next, slide a small plastic bead up the line and then add the slip float. I have been using Hawken Fishing’s Bobber-Doggin’-style floats in the small or medium sizes the past couple seasons and have had good success with them. They have a flat bottom, which helps catch the current and push the rig along. You can also achieve the same thing with cheap foam floats by simply cutting the bottoms flat with a pair of scissors. The next item to slide up the mainline is a snap swivel. To the snap goes your sinker. Again, pencil lead or slinkies are the best choices. You want enough lead to get your bait to the bottom—but not so much that it’s heavily pounding it. A nice, light tap is perfect. As I mentioned earlier, in small creeks you may only need a split-shot or two to get down. Add another small bead and then finish off by tying a crane swivel to the end of the line. To the other eye of the swivel goes the leader. In larger waters, I’ll go as long as 5 feet and closer to 3 feet in tighter quarters. Fluorocarbon works well, and depending on the size of the fish, anything from 6- to 15-pound test is good. Hard and soft plastic beads in size 8mm to 10mm are what I bobber-dog the most when ’bows and Dollies are the target species, but small Glo Bugs or yarnies work well, too. If spawning salmon are present, try to best match the size and color of the eggs in the water. When searching, I like hot pink and orange hues. Regardless of your method of choice, always remember to read the regulations carefully for the area you’re fishing, pinch the barbs on your terminal gear and practice safe handling and release techniques. By helping to keep Alaska’s trout and char populations strong and healthy, you’re contributing to the preservation of one of the planet’s best remaining fisheries. Try some of these techniques this summer and fall and see how well they work on the Dollies and trout in your favorite streams!

JD Richey is a contributing editor for Fish Alaska magazine and can be reached through his website at www.fishwithjd.com.

50 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 51 and a willingness to encounter frustration fish. Time spent hiking through rugged the following day, I would take her to a spot and disappointment at any given moment. wilderness, unexpected interactions with where I thought we could catch fish. That is, The greatest fishing Finally, I reassure them that all these risks wild animals and meaningful conversations if she was interested. Aria’s eyes got wide as adventures are about offer substantial rewards in those moments all happen within moments when fish aren’t saucers as she nodded enthusiastically. when time slips away and they find being caught. These are the memories that far more than fish. themselves firmly planted within a single stay etched in your memory many years after No More Floundering Around moment. the day has come and gone. A few years ago, some friends visited from Story and Photos by Andrew Cremata Then we go fishing. We hiked up to the lake on a beautiful, Switzerland and were eager to try fishing Making sunny afternoon with wildflowers in bloom for the first time in their more than 65 A Learning Experience and a light breeze kissing the surface of combined years on this planet. I wanted to Last summer, some friends from down south the water. Aria’s mom and dad, Robin and give them an Alaskan experience, so I took came up to visit. It was my first time meeting Phillip, were also eager to fish, as was my them to a handful of places on subsequent their young daughter, Aria, who was on her wife Brittney, so we all settled into a position days where I thought we could catch ocean- first trip to Alaska. An avid reader, Aria was along the shore and set-up our gear. bright salmon. The problem with this plan already well versed in a number of Alaska- I showed Aria the proper way to tie on was that the salmon hadn’t started running. related topics, and I had the opportunity to a small Mepps spinner and then gave her a After the second failed attempt, I was Memories take her on her first-ever fishing adventure. lesson in casting. After a couple of tries, she laying in bed trying to think of anywhere I As the youngest angling student I’ve ever already had the hang of it. could take them to catch a salmon when I taught, my first instinct was to take her to a Many adults I’ve taken fishing have suddenly realized that someone who’s never When I was a kid, fishing was something that happened every week. I spent most of my formative years on beaches, bridges, and piers, watching and learning Skagway brook from the angling experts in my family. My earliest memories are of fishing with trout aren’t big, but my grandmother Adelpha, who patiently baited my hook in between my endless they are plentiful... when they’re biting. casts and retrieves. Whenever she reeled in a fish, a marvelous mystery unfolded. What left the pier was a baited hook. What returned was a living thing that would become our dinner. Adelpha would smile and laugh as she placed it carefully in the cooler, already talking about how she would cook it. I sat with her on her back porch at the end of the day when she cleaned and filleted her catch. She tossed the scraps to a lanky white heron that lived behind her apartment and instinctively knew when to stop by for an easy meal. Later, my entire family would gather and enjoy the feast while listening to old records and sharing dubious fish stories from their own past. As I got older, I began to decipher some of Adelpha’s fishing secrets. I learned even more skills from my father Sam and grandfather Jose. My dad taught me how to tie a knot. My grandpa explained how different fish liked different bait. For them, fishing was both serious business and good fun. Whenever we joined forces, bragging rights were on the line. Imaginary prizes were awarded for catching the first fish, the biggest fish and the most fish. Jose always caught the biggest fish, until one day when he didn’t. We were on an overnight fishing trip, targeting redfish and speckled trout from a seawall in Tampa, FL. There were two of each on the stringer, all caught by my grandpa. On the last cast, I felt a tap and set the hook. The rod bent over double. In what may be my spot where I knew she would have a chance struggled with casting, and I’ve frequently caught a fish doesn’t really care what they proudest childhood moment, I landed a redfish that was bigger to catch a fish on every cast. However, Aria been subject to errant casts and swinging catch. than all of my grandpa’s fish combined. stated that she wanted to learn how to fish, hooks. On one occasion I was standing The following day, I took them out to the On the ride home I repeatedly pointed out that I caught the so I thought back to my childhood fishing behind the person making the cast, and end of one of Skagway’s cruise-ship docks biggest fish. My grandfather mildly protested, but his smile experiences and developed a new plan. even though they swung their rod forward, and set them up with bottom rigs. I tied revealed something else. On the first day we targeted an Alaska somehow the lure shot directly at my face. on two hooks and baited them with small Pride. rarity—brook trout. Only 12 lakes in the Fortunately, I’m pretty quick. pieces of cut herring. Even though I expected I can’t remember a lot of details from my childhood in entire state hold brookies, and two of them No such mishaps happened with Aria, and flounder to be reeled in on both hooks with Florida, but I can bore you with old fishing stories for hours. are in Skagway, my Alaska home. Lower once she got into a rhythm I left her alone to every cast, I told my friends to temper Since moving to Alaska 21 years ago, I’ve had countless Dewey Lake is the most accessible, and it’s enjoy her own personal space and self-learn their expectations. opportunities to take both locals and visitors on their first-ever reached by a steep, yet mercifully short, hike through trial and error. All five of us cast into When the fish started flying over the fishing adventure. Some stand out more than others. from town. Brook trout in Lower Dewey that lake for an hour without so much as a guardrail, my friends were filled with pure Lake can reach lengths of 24 inches, but bite, until Aria’s rod made a subtle twitch. I joy. They laughed and took pictures, and The Big Question most are far smaller. saw it out of the corner of my eye, and she when we fried up our catch later that night Whenever someone asks me to take them fishing, I ask, “Do you want While the fish are often easy to catch just obviously felt it because she instinctively they both said it was the most enjoyable to catch fish, or learn how to fish?” If they answer the former, I take them after ice out, they become more persnickety attempted to set the hook. experience of their entire stay in Alaska. Aria is all smiles with during the summer months. Since it was I thought to myself, she’s a natural. Not one of the flounder were more than to a spot where I know they can catch fish and get them entirely set-up with her flounder. everything they need. If they say they want to learn to fish, the process is entirely July, I understood that catching trout may On the hike back to town, I asked Aria if 12 inches long. different. be difficult, but the goal was to provide Aria she had a good time even though she wasn’t I took Aria and her family to this same First I explain that learning to fish can lead to an obsession that will often make with an honest fishing experience. able to catch a fish. Her smile gave away the spot, late the following day. I rigged each you late for appointments and spend countless hours online shopping for the My fondest memories of fishing in Alaska answer. rod with two long-shank 1/0 hooks tied perfect lure. I also point out that they must have endless amounts of patience most often revolve around the pursuit of I told her that if the weather cooperated off above a 2-ounce lead weight. Since the

5252 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September August/September 2017 2017 August/SeptemberAugust/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 5353 flounder are almost always small, we used foul hooked a flounder in the tail or hooked We kept fishing until the dusky sky lightweight spinning rods with 6-pound into a big sculpin, I thought to myself. glowed pink. I began dismantling the gear mono line. After a lengthy battle, I peered out over and sorting out the fish. The unmistakable Because Aria is a kid’s height, she fished the edge to see what was coming up. The sound of a humpback whale exhaling filled on the side of the pier with no guardrail, so flounder that broke the surface was a giant the air. I quickly spotted it and pointed it out her mom stood close behind to ensure her doormat and easily the largest flounder I’ve to Aria and her family. It was their first time safety. We all dropped our lines at about the ever seen caught in Skagway. I dropped my seeing a whale. They watched arm-in-arm as same time, and the second they reached the gear in astonishment and rushed over to Aria the humpback surfaced a few times before bottom, the rod tips started twitching. while formulating a plan to land this massive its tail reached high into the evening air and Aria and I hooked-up immediately. The fish. slowly disappeared below the waves. light rods bent over double, but Aria stayed The flounder was on the surface ofthe focused as she cranked the handle. Her mom water, more than 30 feet below where we A Final Thought helped her keep the rod pointed up, until the stood on the pier. With no way to walk the Back at home, Aria grimaced while watching 11-inch flounder was safely on the pier. fish back to shore, I would have to completely me fillet her catch of the day. I saved the I would wager that most anglers vividly tighten the drag, start reeling and hope that scraps in a bag to use as bait in my shrimp remember their first fish. I vividly remember the six-pound line could handle the load. If pot. We enjoyed laughter and conversation my first catch—a 4-inch angelfish that my the flounder started flopping, the line would well into the evening, reliving the day’s grandmother likely attached to my hook break, so I had to work fast. adventures so they will still be etched in our while I was eating an ice-cream cone. Aria handed me her rig. I twisted the drag minds far into the future. Aria’s elation assured me that she would until it was firm and pointed the rod slightly When Aria left, she told me that she remember her first catch, but her proud downward before starting to reel. I looked couldn’t wait to return to Alaska and join me parents took a few pictures just to be sure. back to see Aria and her parents staring for another fishing adventure. After a few more casts, Aria hooked up in wide-eyed anticipation. The flounder Why? again. The rod was making wild jerks toward cooperated, and when it was just close “Because I want to catch a bigger fish than the water, even with Robin helping to keep enough, I carefully swung the fish up onto you again,” she said with a smile. the rod tip pointed upwards. Aria’s face was the pier. Like I said… She’s a natural. strained as she used all of her might to turn More pictures ensued. the handle. I’ve always been the undisputed flounder “This one feels a lot bigger!” she said. champion of Skagway, mainly because “You probably have two on,” I responded. I’m the only person that fishes for them. Skagway writer Andrew Cremata contributes I could hear her drag engaging on some However, I didn’t mind being unseated by regularly to Fish Alaska magazine. His first of the stronger pulls, which is something the new top dog, especially considering we book, Fish This! An Alaskan Story is now flounder simply aren’t able to do. Maybe she all got to enjoy a fabulous fish-fry that night. available online.

eagle river arctic cat

54 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 55 The winds were calm that day, and the surface of Clarence Strait looked flat enough to cross by canoe. (Note: that’s never a good idea.) I generally hold to fishing a maximum of two rods from my skiff, but the current was slack, our visitors were reasonably experienced anglers and we were mooching rather than trolling. Besides, we had yet to encounter any fish to distract us. But action on migrating silvers tends to come all at once or not at all, and I suspected it was just a matter of time. We were down to scanning the water for marine mammals when daughter Gen’s rod tip went down hard, reminding me of the paradoxical difference between the way a 12-pound silver slams a herring and the subtle nibble a 40-pound king will give the same bait. Although Gen was the only person aboard born in Alaska, she was living in the Bay Area then and hadn’t caught a salmon in several Don and Lori Thomas show off a pair of the best reasons to fish Thorne Bay. years. Her manic war-whoop was entirely predictable. Then my wife Lori hooked a second fish, and daughter Nicole hooked a third while she was trying to reel in and get out of the way. Suddenly, I was very busy. The first order of business was to get the lower unit up out of the water before someone snagged a line on the prop, which I managed Gen’s followed quickly, but with more just in time. Then it was ring-around-the-rosy while anglers dodged over, under and around each other’s lines. I was trying to net fish in complications. As I hoisted the bulging the order they came to the boat rather than worrying about whose fish was whose. Saltwater silvers have a surprising ability to come back net over the gunwale, the 15-pound fish to life just when you’re closing on them with a net, and there were several false starts before I finally got Lori’s aboard. executed several snap rolls before I could dispatch it. This left the fish wrapped up in the net, with a trailer hook protruding behind its mouth. Foolishly (I really do know better) I reached in to untangle the mess with my bare fingers instead of a hook- out. The fish made one more roll and drove the free hook through the pulp at the end of my index finger. Thinking quickly, Lori—a nurse in her prior life—quickly cut the leader between the two hooks and whacked the fish to keep it from doing more damage. Then she netted Nicole’s fish while I studied the mess at the end of my finger and made a plan to remove the hook. There’s a simple trick to that operation, and I’ve done it many times. The technique is a topic for another day, but believe me when I tell you that it looks a lot more intimidating when applied to a 3/0 salmon hook than to a #14

56 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 57 At left, if you have the equipment and the know-how, crabbing can add a delicious dimension to your trip to Prince of Wales Island. At right, the halibut fishing in this part of Alaska is consistently epic. dry fly. In any event, the hook popped out Chichigof and Baranof islands, the Spanish Russia, and I sometimes regret that we didn’t easily, we bled the fish and went looking for by marine landmarks like El Capitan Passage just keep all of their Tlingit and Haida place another school. and Trocadero Bay. Most of the names names the way they were. It took us less than an hour to find one. British explorers left on their charts when None of this may seem to have much to Cook and Vancouver arrived near the end of do with fishing, but I’ve never been able to Alaska place names provide an interesting the 18th century honored members of their separate my interest in the fish from my lesson in the history of colonialism in the crews (Gore Point, Mt. Edgecumbe) or the interest in the places where I fish for them. North Pacific. Among the European powers British Royal family (Prince of Wales Island, The names on the maps and charts tella the Russians arrived first, followed by the Clarence Strait). Of course, Alaska Natives story, and in an area as geographically and Spanish and English. Today, the Russian had occupied the region for thousands of culturally complex as southeast Alaska it influence remains apparent in names like years before Vitus Bering headed east from may take a while to understand it. I lived

58 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 59 on Prince of Wales Island off and on for on the surface. I suspected it was playing years, and even after all that time on its rivers possum as big halibut like to do, but Rosey and seas I never thought I had everything wasn’t waiting. He let it fly like Queequeg about the area figured out. I sure had fun in Moby Dick, and the water beside the boat trying, though. exploded as if a bomb had gone off. One thing that I did learn is that the The harpoon head was rigged toa period from mid-August through the end large float, and the line took off running of September is a magical time for an angler freely—a minor miracle given the number to be there. Spring steelhead can very much of opportunities available for it to foul on be hit or miss, and while locals who target something. Then the fish sounded and the early feeder kings in nearby Clarence Strait float completely disappeared from sight, catch their share, they put in a lot of hours only to pop up again several minutes later for every fish. and 50 yards away. As the original theme By August, though, it’s hard to think of a music from Jaws began to run an endless more target-rich environment for an angler. loop through my head, we chased the float The ability to fish freshwater and salt is around until we finally caught it, pulled one of the area’s bonuses, and Thorne Bay, the fish to the surface, shot it and hauled it located midway up the island’s eastern coast, aboard. I’ve caught larger halibut before, but offers good access to both. The town is large never one that resisted efforts to turn it into enough to provide basic amenities without fish and chips more vigorously. feeling urbanized. The long, winding bay Clarence Straight in the summer isn’t all offers shelter in almost any weather and about broomstick rods and heavy lead. For the island’s road system leads to dozens of light-tackle enthusiasts, pelagic rockfish are productive salmon streams. present throughout the summer, as are sea- I’ve never been a big fan of pink salmon. run Dolly Varden and cutthroat trout. None But if you’re going to target them, light of these fish will bust-up tackle, but all are tackle is the way to do it and the ocean is fun on flies and light spinning rods. the place, where they still remain bright and By mid-August bright silvers will be vigorous. By early August bright pinks are entering virtually every stream on Prince of readily available just offshore in Clarence Wales Island. The fishing usually continues Strait, and they can be a lot of fun on light to improve throughout September, as more tackle, including fly rods. silvers enter freshwater and the streams To be honest, though, I’m usually waiting become less congested with spawning or for silvers to arrive when I’m catching dying pinks. Right outside the town of pinks at sea. Silvers returning as part of the Thorne Bay, the Thorne River is a great place hatchery-enhanced run at Neck Lake begin to start. The Harris to the south, Staney to arrive in mid-June, providing some of the Creek to the west, Hatchery Creek to the earliest silver fishing in the state. Silvers show north and virtually all streams in-between up offshore near Thorne Bay in July, and the can produce excellent silver fishing. The ocean fishing really heats up in August as Thorne River and Staney Creek seem to fish concentrate prior to entering freshwater. kick out the biggest fish every year, but there There are often even more silvers along the are always exceptions. The Klawock River Cleveland Peninsula on the eastern side of hosts a large hatchery return, but the short Clarence Strait, an easy run by charter vessel. segment of stream between the hatchery Halibut fishing remains good in late and the tideline rapidly fills up with dark summer and early fall, with fish sometimes fish having nowhere to go—not my cup moving into shallow water to feed on dead of tea, especially with so many enjoyable salmon washing downstream to the sea. alternatives available. When halibut are the target, we become While there is always a hit-or-miss quality unabashed meat fishermen. The last year we to the hunt for migratory fish such as silver lived in the area, Lori met our annual halibut salmon, the presence of multiple salmon needs with a single 140-pound fish from streams in a small area increases the odds 70 feet of water off Etolin Island. While that there will be fish somewhere nearby on catching even big “barn door” halibut rarely any given day. I’ve caught bright silvers from involves much technical challenge, this one area streams all the way into October, which proved an exception. means it’s easy to combine a silver expedition When we realized that Lori had hooked with a deer hunting trip to the alpine. And a large fish, our friend Rosey Roseland the sea is always ready to contribute to the immediately grabbed the harpoon. All dinner table. While I stay away from clams afternoon, I’d secretly thought that he was and mussels during the summer to avoid more interested in sticking that harpoon possible paralytic shellfish poisoning, shrimp head through a big halibut than he was in and Dungeness crabs are safe and there for catching one himself. As Lori pumped away the taking. at the heavy rod, it wasn’t long until we could see color in the clear green water beneath I fish for halibut because I like to eat them, the hull. Then the fish was lying broadside and I don’t much care about how I get

60 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 61 Visiting Prince of Wales Island its momentum inland. a half-dozen times doesn’t help either of us. Indeed, as soon as Lori It rarely does. Adventure Alaska Southeast and I break out on the Then suddenly my line hesitates in www.fishorhunt.com needed to fish the many streams and vast saltwater surrounding bank overlooking the first the current. By this time I’m down to 1-877-499-FISH Prince of Wales Island. From rods and reels to the tackle that works, long hole I can see nervous a #10 bonefish pattern—a sure sign of Trish and Jason Clowar maintain two modern facilities in the town of their helpful staff will get you outfitted for any of your outdoor plans water pushing across the desperation—but I don’t think this has Thorne Bay, one of which is particularly well-suited for groups. Both in the area and are well-equipped with local knowledge. locations are conveniently located with respect to the road system riffle below us. When fish anything to do with the strike. The fish and the small boat harbor, and their packages include vehicles and McFarland’s Floatel pass beneath our vantage, have just decided, for whatever reason, that skiffs. A complete tackle shop is available on-site including a good www.mcfarlandsfloatel.com I can identify them as the time has come to act aggressively. My selection of fly rod gear. Guided stream fishing and saltwater charters 907-828-3335 silvers. strip-set wakes up the whole pool as a yard are available upon request, but the standard stay is self-guided. For anglers interested primarily in saltwater fishing, this location Bright silvers breaking of chrome goes airborne, and three casts on the south side of Thorne Bay is especially convenient. Jim and Alaska’s Fish Tales Lodge Jeannie McFarland have operated the Floatel for over 30 years. the surface lend urgency to later Lori hooks up, too, on an outlandish www.alaskasfishtaleslodge.com Visitors can walk down to the dock from the waterfront cabins and our pace as we wade the baitfish imitation that seems several sizes 907-846-4766 be fishing in minutes. Skiff rentals are included and vehicles are riffle above the pool and too big for the water. Just as the choice For DIY anglers who want to experience the best of Prince of Wales available for those who wish to fish the streams. Saltwater tackle is walk down the gravel bar of flies seldom matters when silvers aren’t Island in the Whale Pass / Upper Clarence Strait area, this is the ideal available on site. on the far side so we can biting, it seldom matters when they are. spot to park your luggage for the week. Whether fishing or hunting, swing streamers through The bite lasts just over an hour, which is T horne Bay Lodge You’ll fish some of the most scenic water in the state when Boardwalk Lodge www.thornebaylodge.com you explore Prince of Wales Island. the slot beneath the bank. long enough. We have business to attend www.boardwalklodge.com 503-680-1755 Nothing makes fingers to back home—dogs to run, crab pots to 1-800-679-4766 Located in the fish-rich Thorne Bay region of Prince of Wales Island, them in the boat. But as much as I like to fumble like the sight of fish, and with silvers check, dinner to prepare for visiting friends For those who want more help on the water or more luxury at the Thorne Bay Lodge guests are treated to a combination of self- eat salmon, I fish for them because I love jumping all around me a solid knot requires due to arrive that afternoon. The stream end of the day, the Boardwalk Lodge offers an attractive option. guided fishing on the world-famous rivers of the island, exploring the process and the surroundings. In that several false starts. Lori and her young eyes has already been good to us, and there is no The lodge is also located on the south side of Thorne Bay. Manager over 1,500 miles of road that provide almost unlimited access, as well regard, nothing beats a 7-weight fly rod on fare better, and she’s already casting a green reason to ask for more. Jay Mar arranges daily charters to the salt or guided stream fishing as guided fishing trips for halibut and salmon on the calm waters of a clear stream in the middle of the southeast and white Clouser by the time I have a Pink throughout the season. the Inside Passage. the lodge offers all the amenities and equipment you’ll need to fulfill Alaska rainforest, which is where we are Bunny secure on my tippet. the adventure of a lifetime. Sportsman’s Cove Lodge today. Our first hour in the pool reminds me of www.alaskasbestlodge.com The stream is just dropping back into a harsh reality about silver salmon. Moody, Log Cabin Sporting Goods 800-962-7889 shape after three days of rain earlier in the unpredictable fish, they can develop Don and Lori Thomas have made Thorne Bay Captain Larry McQuarrie and the crew at Sportsman’s Cove Lodge www.logcabinsports.com lockjaw and refuse to strike at any time and Prince of Wales Island their home for at 800-826-2205 offer superb saltwater angling action off Prince of Wales Island, week, and I can practically feel the silvers’ We highly recommend visiting Log Cabin Sporting Goods in Craig targeting some of the hottest hotspots in southeast Alaska, while eagerness to complete their long journey for reasons known only to the fish. The least part of the year for decades, fishing waters on POW. Owned by avid outdoor fans Tim and Melissa Lacour for simultaneously providing outstanding accommodations and all the home. Less than a mile downstream a high current is running strong today, so I can’t across the island in that time. The author of more than 15 years of its 21-year age, Log Cabin carries all the gear amenities you’ll need to feel like you’re right at home. tide is pushing gently against the river’s blame low water. Perhaps the bright sun several books on the outdoors, Don’s works can current, and I know the fish will be riding overhead is troubling them. Changing flies be found at www.donthomasbooks.com.

62 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 63 From the Kenai Peninsula to Fairbanks There’s little doubt Alaska is the place for the do-it-yourself angler river, the Kasilof offers a more leisurely day afield than many of those and all over the state, there are serious about wilderness fishing, and there may not be a better time spent searching for salmon in the lower or middle Kenai. Next, on ample DIY opportunities for fishing to sample a little of that rod-bending action than autumn. With the the southern end of the Kenai Peninsula as you move towards the regulars. © Wayne Norris hillsides having turned a dozen shades of orange and gold, Alaska’s community of Homer, a triad of clearwater streams cross the Sterling coho return in force, and in many areas, these hard-fighting, acrobatic Highway en route to Cook Inlet. The Anchor and Ninilchik rivers and salmon pack roadside streams from bank to bank, providing nonstop Deep Creek each support native stocks of Dolly Varden, silvers and action to anglers who arrive at the right time. For even more practice later in the fall, steelhead. releasing fish, the pinks arrive in the early autumn as well, andas And then there are all the trailheads, lakes and small streams (such as anyone who’s ever dropped an offering into a peaking pink run can Quartz Creek just before Kenai Lake) just waiting to be explored, not attest, they’re hardly shy. to mention the freshwater fisheries that lie across Cook Inlet and are Moreover, fall also means the state’s famous rainbows are fat and accessible by a short floatplane flight. Anglers who grab the canoe and happy after more than a month spent gorging on salmon eggs drifting venture into the Swanson River/Swan Lake system will also find fall an from the spawning beds. Eager-eating Dolly Varden are thick as well, awesome time to get out and explore Alaska. Other highlights include and the uniquely northern Arctic grayling make for a pleasant day’s the numerous lakes off the Resurrection Pass Trailhead, which sits at diversion—especially for those with a mind to venture into lake mile 53.2 of the Sterling Highway, as well as those of the Fuller Lakes country. Trailhead, located at mile 57 on the highway. Taken all together, these last weeks trailing towards season’s end in Alaska present some of the most dynamic and reliable fishing #2 Kodiak Island opportunities of the year. And that’s typically minus the heaviest Offering one of the better road systems in the state, and some of Alaska’s pressure of the year, too. All you need is transportation, your gear and best fall fishing for silver, chum and pink salmon, Dolly Varden and a hearty sense of adventure. even steelhead, Kodiak is a DIY angler’s dream. About one-third of the 75-plus miles of road network extending out #1 Kenai Peninsula Regardless of the time of year, the Sterling-Soldotna-Kenai area is the epicenter of southcentral Alaska’s DIY fishing scene, but with the season shuffling towards autumn, things really pick up again on the peninsula after a short late-July salmon lull, as the silvers start to arrive, hook-nosed and eager to belt lure or fly. With the kings and the sockeye already on their spawning beds, the fishing for resident rainbow trout and sea-run Dolly Varden rises towards a crescendo as well, and it only gets better as the days grow shorter. Everything here, of course, begins with the mighty Kenai River. One of the most famous salmon and trout rivers in the world, it is home to the largest, most active sport fishery in the state. From its earliest beginnings at Kenai Lake through the trout-filled waters of Skilak and finally on to the slow-moving tidal area where it empties into Cook Inlet, the Kenai is a river unlike any other in the world. The upper river, designated a trophy trout area, issues from the outlet of Kenai Lake and courses through a panorama of scenic mountains and forests until it meets giant Skilak Lake. Most of the river from the lake

down is class I water, ideal for drift fishing or floating, except for the Run-timing and accessibility are two Kenai Canyon, a stretch of class III water right before Skilak Lake. The Chum salmon typically offer DIY anglers a chance to hit a hot important factors when choosing rainbows and Dollies are legendary on this section of water, 17.3 miles salmon run without running into lots of competition. © Marcus your DIY adventure. © Melissa Norris in length, and at the Kenai Lake outlet there is a public boat launch for Weiner rafters, boaters and other recreational users to easily access the upper stretches of the river. The river eases past its hugely popular tributary, from the City of Kodiak follows along the island’s rugged northeastern the Russian River, and just below here, the Kenai River ferry operates, coastline. Tracing the shoreline around steep, spruce-forested slopes running crowds of anglers across the river to reach some productive that rise abruptly from the North Pacific or curve across sweeping wade-fishing ground. From the ferry down to Jim’s Landing spreads black sand beaches, Kodiak’s winding roadways conveniently offer miles of picturesque Alaska scenery and some exceptional trout and anglers dozens of opportunities to reach some of the finest salmon Dolly Varden opportunities. fishing Alaska has to offer—and usually within only a short jaunt from From Skilak Lake to Naptowne Rapids (about ten river miles), a your vehicle. number of good salmon and trout holes are available in the middle Kodiak is famous for its large silver salmon. Arriving in good river. Approximately the first four miles of this section are within the numbers from September through early October, fishing is done Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, and the only access point for boats is very close to saltwater in streams such as the Olds, American, Buskin at the lower Skilak Lake landing. This section of the Kenai is the most and Pasagshak rivers or in shallow lakes like Buskin, Rose Tead and remote of the entire waterway, and the first public access point isn’t Kalsin Pond. until downstream of the rapids, at the Isaac Walton Park boat launch Bridges span each major stream emptying into the ocean along at the Moose River in Sterling. Kodiak’s road system, and access to many of the hottest spots usually For its final 21 miles the river meanders lazily from the Sterling takes only a descent down a well-worn path cut into the end of a Highway Bridge in Soldotna to its rendezvous with Cook Inlet near parking area. Trails along the river back from the mouth enable anglers the town of Kenai. to go from car to casting in a matter of a few steps—or minutes. Traveling south from Soldotna, one will first encounter the glacial The island’s roads likewise pass along many incredibly rich surf Kasilof River, which supports a decent coho return. A drift-boat-only fisheries, which can produce salmon, halibut, Dollies and an assortment of rockfish for the wading angler.

64 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 65 more than a mile above the tidewater. Above the coastal flats, the streams are fast, shallow, braided and sterile. All the good fishing water is within a mile of the beach. For the more adventurous angler, a fly-out on Kodiak Island can land you in pristine waters teeming with fish and without many or any other anglers. We’ve flown with Andrew Airways (www.andrewairways.com, 907-487- 2566) on multiple trips around the island and have enjoyed tremendous fishing. And last, a pair of serious considerations for the DIY angler: Kodiak Island is famous for two things beyond the fish—brown bears and the island’s storms. Remain aware of your There are hundreds of quality rivers and streams on Prince of Wales Island that the DIY surroundings and practice proper wilderness angler can access daily. © Marcus Weiner etiquette in bear country, and make sure you bring all the necessary gear for inclement Pink salmon arrive in large numbers in the from the clean jumps of the pinks and silvers. weather. estuaries of Chiniak Bay from late July through Spot, move into position and by all means, August. Running 3- to 5 pounds, they are the cast away. #3 Prince of Wales Island smallest salmon but what they lack in size they Kodiak Island’s rich estuarine habit is also Mornings on Prince of Wales Island can begin more than make up for in sheer numbers, ideal for supporting a healthy Dolly Varden with a quandary—drive in any direction and plus they are aggressive biters. Along the road sport fishery and action can be fast, with the you’ll find fish. This is without mentioning system, several classic estuaries exist with small fish averaging 2- to 3 pounds and offering the myriad possibilities were an angler to creeks or delta channels furrowing a broad, great sport on light tackle. launch a skiff and get into the salt, and many gently sloping flat of sand or fine gravel. The The American River is the most popular of the island’s DIY lodges do offer a skiff to get mouth of the Olds River is one of these places. Dolly Varden stream on the road system guests into the best saltwater fishing. As the season progresses, chum salmon because it’s usually loaded with Dollies. Access The road system here is by far the most begin to show more and more. They are is good thanks to the Saltery River Road. The extensive of any in southeast Alaska, with easy to recognize because they cause a lot Buskin River also offers excellent Dolly fishing nearly 1,500 miles of shotrock roads of commotion in the water, often jumping between the main road in front of the airport remaining from mining and timber heydays, and launching themselves in a twisting, up to nearby Buskin Lake. In the American as well as over 150 miles of improved gravel sideways lunge that is distinctly different and other streams, you don’t want to fish and about 100 miles of paved luxury. Most

66 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 67 You can avoid the crowds, finding some peace and serenity when roadside fishing the product of the Southern Southeast Regional in Alaska by targeting resident species and Association’s enhancement project fishing both early and late in the year. in Neck Lake, and can be targeted in the bay or © Melissa Norris in the creek. Sarkar Lake and Creek produces of this roadway crosses, parallels or at least strong runs of sockeye, chum, pink and gets close to water. And most of that water silver salmon, while chums and pinks are the hosts fish. headliners on Logjam Creek, as well as nearby The communities of Craig, Klawock, Hollis Hatchery Creek, which also has a small run of and Thorne Bay serve as the primary jumping silvers. Both are accessed by Forest Service road off points for most island anglers, and those crossings and feed into Sweetwater Lake, where headed for freshwater will find more than anglers can also target Dollies and cutts. 70 streams on the island with documented One of the most well-known destinations on returns of steelhead (the majority of these are the island, Staney Creek offers about 15 miles spring, not fall, returns). More than that offer of wadable water to explore—made easy by four healthy returns of chum, pink, sockeye and road crossings and innumerable pullouts with coho salmon. Resident rainbows, cutthroat and trails leading to fishy stretches. Silvers are the Dolly Varden make up the rest of the lineup, prize quarry here in the fall. The Thorne River and for any of the species, at the right time of is the largest on Prince of Wales, meandering year, on the right stream, the action is quite about 25 miles across the central portion of often frenetic. the island and offering a panoply of angling Do-it-yourself anglers must be savvy, piloting opportunity—including cutthroat trout in the skiffs through fog and otherwise inclement 20-inch class, Dollies, silvers and of course, weather, navigating amongst a maze of channels steelhead. Near the town of Klawock, the river and narrow, island-separating straits. Tidal of the same name features good-to-great silver currents can be treacherous, and mistiming an fishing, and with its location, it is quite popular. outgoing tide can leave a person stranded on Another of the larger streams on the island, the the mud flats. Even for the freshwater angler, Harris River offers steelhead, silvers, chums and it’s not easy country to fish. In much of the pinks and is accessible from a bridge on the area, despite the easy road access, there are no Harris-Hydaburg road, which is located about defined trails, only pathways beaten down by ten miles up the drainage. Multiple access black bears traveling the stream corridors in points also exist from spur logging roads and search of salmon. Clambering over exposed several trails that lead to the water. root systems and fallen tree trunks the size of small cars and sliding down slippery banks, #4 Fairbanks clinging to devil’s club and the thorny stalks of Fairbanks offers grand potential for DIY skunk cabbage for support, anglers can struggle anglers, with miles of wilderness streams within just to reach the isolated pools and boulder- easy reach of town—and striking distance strewn runs that hold fish. from one of the area’s roads. The fishing in the Prince of Wales Island also offers a lot of area begins with the Chena River. The North fishy lakes, with cutthroat and Dolly Varden Fork of the Chena and the mainstem Chena the obvious targets. And while there is no both serve as primary spawning grounds for way to list all the prolific freshwater fisheries the river’s salmon, and the river’s upper waters on the island in this space, anglers arriving in also feature outstanding grayling fishing. autumn would be wise to check out some of Another easy option for Fairbanks anglers is these highlights: to spend anything from a few hours to a day Salmon Creek features a good coho return, in the Chena Lakes Recreational Area, where cutthroat trout and Dolly Varden, as well as one the Alaska Department of Fish and Game has of the few island fisheries with both a spring stocked rainbow trout, silver salmon and Arctic and a fall run of steelhead. 108 Creek, accessed char. Another good option less than an hour either by bridge on the lower creek or by one from town is the Nenana River, which offers of many pullouts along its length, offers solid clearwater tributary action for both silver and runs of pink and silver salmon in August and chum salmon. Grayling are also present in the September. The Neck Lake and Creek silvers are Nenana tributaries. 68 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 69 However, the primary river in this part West Twin, Mucha and Wein lakes. Lake of the state is the Tanana, and the highways Minchumina and many smaller waters, and secondary roads of the Tanana Valley including more than a few within Denali provide much of the access to sport fisheries. National Park, are also noted producers, as The highly-varied fishing opportunities range is George Lake near Delta Junction, Fish from lake trout and Dolly Varden in the alpine Creek and the oxbow lakes and sloughs of the lakes along the Denali Highway to some Goodpaster Flats area. Any of these areas can quality Arctic grayling and coho fisheries in make for a great weekend (or longer) getaway clear, spring-fed rivers. Rainbow trout are not for anglers looking to camp and fish to their native to the drainage but have been stocked hearts’ content. in many lakes. Arctic char, coho, kings and Arctic grayling are also stocked in select lakes #5 Mat-Su Valley and the Having access to a raft or pontoon boat of the Tanana River drainage. Specifically, the Parks Highway makes it easier to get out and enjoy new foremost silver salmon fishery in this region For anglers, the Mat-Su Valley offers both water. Day floats are popular for southcentral occurs in the Delta Clearwater River, an roadside and remote access to all five of Alaska anglers in many Mat-Su Valley streams. otherwise insignificant 23-mile-long tributary Alaska’s Pacific salmon species, plus resident © Wayne Norris of the Tanana. It’s a slightly later run, however, rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, grayling, Point MacKenzie Road to Burma Landing. There with good silver fishing had from the last week northern pike and more. There is also good anglers will find a paved trail that leads a mile in September to the middle of November, to excellent lake fishing throughout the valley, or so from the parking area, opening the stream peaking around the first weekend in October. which boasts the most aggressive stocking to a wide array of bank access. Rainbows, Dolly Beyond the salmon and the grayling, program in the state, with more than 90 area Varden, grayling and all five of Alaska’s salmon anglers bound for Fairbanks will want to take lakes stocked with rainbow trout, grayling, species inhabit the river. note of the world-class pike opportunities of Arctic char, landlocked coho and Chinook Willow Creek, flowing beneath the Parks the Minto Flats area, located west of town. salmon. For the DIY angler looking to make Highway at mile 71.5, is to this part of the state Wading anglers can work their way into the a weekend of it, many of these lakes also offer as the Kenai River is to the Kenai Peninsula. The pike grounds in this 800-square-mile wetland prime camping grounds—with the requisite Willow is a clear-flowing stream that is very easy complex in the Tolvana River drainage, but grand Alaska scenery. to wade and sight-fish, with coho action peaking anglers fishing from a boat will gain access to In the Mat-Su, it’s the tributaries of the in mid-August. Pink and chum salmon are also a wider range of the best pike habitat in the Susitna River—most of which intersect the in the river at this time, as are trophy rainbows. Minto Flats. The area typically ranks as one Parks Highway between the town of Wasilla For a miniature version of Willow Creek, head of Alaska’s best fisheries for producing trophy and Denali National Park—that garner the up the highway to mile 74.7 and Little Willow pike (15 pounds or larger). most interest. Creek. The best fishing is from the Parks Highway Another productive drainage is that of Notable fisheries for the DIY angler include bridge downstream to the mouth, where silver the Kantishna River, which hosts abundant the Little Susitna River, which can be accessed and pink salmon dominate the late summer northern pike populations in East Twin, off Knik Goose Bay Road by heading west on fishing scene, followed by rainbows and grayling. Caswell Creek, offers another solid shot at good numbers of silvers and pinks, while farther up the highway, Sheep Creek is yet another popular silver and pink salmon fishery. If you want to try your luck here, September is best, when crowds have thinned and rainbows and grayling are in. Mile 96.5 will land you at Montana Creek, where there is plenty of parking, along with a campground, within easy walking distance to the creek. The silver salmon action can be exceptional during the month of August, while pink and chum salmon make their way into this creek in late July and last through mid-August. Rainbow fishing can be good in spring and fall, with fish up to 10 pounds not uncommon in the lower river. Grayling fishing can be good in the upper stretches of the creek.

In the end, there are fall fisheries enough for Alaskans and visitors alike, and if your penchant is to do it yourself, there is no better time to string up a rod and test your mettle. Once you’ve seen all there is to see, and have fished all the water there is to fish in these five destinations (it should only take you a decade or two), then map out your route to Cordova for the silvers or to the Iliamna region for trophy rainbows and get started all over again.

Troy Letherman is editor of Fish Alaska and Hunt Alaska magazines. 70 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 71 “Anglers are forced to step up their game and think of increasingly sneaky ways to hook these savvier fish.”

a salmon egg. Most trout anglers exploring the middle Kenai were in drift boats, so “power-lapping” and learning good trout water took time. Because “power lapping” wasn’t easy, big ’bows would tend to remain in their favored spots, which made for easy and successful fishing.

Present Today, rather than just a pair of oars, many anglers are now running trout drifts in power boats. As a result, our pink-sided friends have received quite the education over the past few years and (I believe) have begun changing their habits…which brings us back to Pavlov and his salivating dogs. An increase in motor noise has become a signal to older fish that danger is high. Consequently, anglers are forced to step up their game and think of increasingly sneaky ways to hook these savvier fish. Watching the interaction of the angler and fish over the last decade and a half has been nothing short of fascinating. As the fish get smarter and change their habits, the angler is forced to get smarter and change his or her habits. Each season I try to come up with one new pattern that produces big fish. That goal may not seem like much, but when you break it down there is actually a ton of trial, error and tweaking that takes place. But no matter how cleverly Ivan Pavlov was a psychologist in the late become apparent that large rainbows fish, let’s take a stroll back 15 years to a crafted a bead might be, a Kenai angler 1800s and was the guy that would ring (over 25 inches) and now even midsized time when the potential of the middle must recognize the complication of a bell just before he fed his dogs. When fish (20- to 24 inches) are responding Kenai was just being let out of the bag. increased motor noise as a signal to the the dogs saw the food, they would begin negatively to motor noise. Just as the more mature and savvy giants. to salivate. For those of you that own sound of a bell triggered a habitual Past I felt it necessary to mention the dogs, especially labs, you know what I’m response in Pavlov’s dogs, the sounds of Back then, most trout aficionados bead first, as it was the original catalyst talking about. After many repetitions of an outboard motor seem to be causing circulated around the Cooper Landing for educating Kenai rainbows. As ringing the bell before food was served, lockjaw in Kenai trout. area. The upper river was and still is pressure increased on the middle Kenai, the dogs began salivating at the sound of Now, I would like to point out that a serious fishery comprised of very trout began getting very selective on the bell even when no food was present. I am not a biologist, psychologist or educated trout and trout fishermen. what was real and not real. Actually, So, what does this have to do with anything else that ends in –ologist. I However, many (if not most) had no “selective” is not accurate; it’s more like Kenai River rainbow trout? I wish that studied art in college. However, I have idea that just a bit downriver was a IRS scrutiny—you know, like paying simply ringing a bell in your boat would spent most of my adult life catching mecca for big, dumb rainbow trout. $30,000 in taxes only to then receive trigger big trout to feed, but that is not trout on the Kenai River and observing At that time, a simple egg pattern a letter stating that you underpaid and where I’m going with this. their evolving behavior. To better could yield epic results. The bead simply owe an additional $1.37. Over the past several years it has understand the changing habits of these needed to be round and resemble The fish are paying closer attention 72 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 73 than we often give them credit for. you are spotted or someone stumbles Dollies. Honestly, I love seeing a nice- I’ve literally had two anglers fishing into that zone and can’t help but hot- sized Dolly Varden all decked out in the same bead, but one angler is lap the spot. Inexperienced and/or their fall spawning splendor. It’s all part hitting big fish and the other is netting overzealous anglers can push those big of the magic of the mighty Kenai River. only midsized rainbows. It doesn’t fish out of that zone permanently. It’s However, if one’s goal is to hook a big take long for all concerned parties to painful to watch, but before your tears ’bow, then you need to recognize what wonder what is going on. After closer completely cloud your vision, consider the Dolly on the end of your line is examination, the “big fish” bead had what actually happens in such an case. telling you. just a few more specks on it than the Usually if a person jumps a big boy, one that was hooking medium-sized they tear back to that spot and run it Weapon of Choice fish. How a trout can see that difference again. However, this time they will likely For those of you who recently took the in glacial water flowing over 5 miles per feel the excitement of only a midsized $30,000 plunge on a shiny new power hour is truly amazing, but that level fish. Then bam, right back to the same boat because you want to scour the of adaptation has helped the big boys spot and likely hooking a similar type of Kenai for trophy trout and are reading avoid getting hooked and becoming fish. Anglers are persistent buggers and this, take a breath, shrug off the buyer’s part of a Facebook status update (trout will keep hitting that spot because they remorse and wipe away the tears. There hate Facebook). keep catching fish and know big ones is hope, but you need to consider stealth are/were lurking down there. Soon the and resist the urge to run right back to Feeling the Pressure area is a churning mass of white caps that happy place where you just jumped It’s quite evident now that even the and shame, killing the bite. Inevitably, the donkey trout of your life. I know; greatest bead on Earth will not convince the Varden and baby ’bows are the only it’s hard. a big trout to bite when there is excessive fish inexperienced enough to still want As a fishing guide I have to break power boat traffic/noise pollution. If to party. Usually by lap six other boats hearts on a regular basis: you have ever found yourself in Super begin to stack up wishing to join in the Client: “You mean we’re not going to Hole on a Saturday playing bumper fun. This creates a negative feedback run back there and hit it again?” boats, you’ll see people catching fish, loop that can drive the big boys out “No, not for awhile.” but there will be nothing large flying of the area and reinforce a negative Client: “But I just hooked a big one.” out of the water. It’s mostly the “aw, relationship with motor noise. “I know. This is why you hooked a shucks, ain’t it cute” trout. Once those As an aside, it may seem that I’m big one.” guys get hip to the scene, the Dolly trashing Dolly Varden, but this isn’t the I know that we have a greater chance of Varden take over. Dolly Varden are like case. Dollies are a great indicator that a) tangling with another beast in the same the Honey Badger, and everyone knows there is something going on in the trout’s spot if we exercise patience and put our that the Honey Badger does not give a environment that is making them not emotions in the closet where they belong. darn. They just eat. bite (water temp, time of day, pressure, Once the initial disappointment subsides, Finding pockets of big fish is awesome, motor noise, etc.), or b) you are using most folks quickly see the big picture. especially if no one sees you. It allows you entirely the wrong pattern. Beneath There is a new idea in addressing the to come back periodically throughout the surface of the Kenai lies a pecking problem of mobility and stealth, the the day and hook into some quality fish order: big trout first, then midsized power drifter. In recent years, more and almost every time. What sucks is when rainbows, followed by the babies and more power drifters are emerging on

Powerboats make it easy to fish a single run multiple times, but anglers need to be wary of overworking the trout—runs need rest if you’re looking to entice the big boys to bite.

74 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 75 the Kenai. A power drifter is a hybrid ability to really slow the boat down rower. With either vessel, you will find to outsmart such intelligent creatures. power/drift boat, usually powered by a and work an area without disturbing the same problem of spooking fish when The days of hooking into these giant 50hp jet or prop with a rower’s bench the monsters that lurk below. I realize you jump a big one in that hole. monsters with stock beads straight out in the middle of the boat to run the that the power drifter can perform the Picture ten big, educated ’bows sitting of the package have passed, but that is stealth drift. Personally, I have not same task, but I question the ease of off a juicy gravel bar drop happily not a bad thing. run nor fished out of one of these, but rowing and maintaining that perfect gulping down eggs, carcasses and flesh, Witnessing the evolution of such I really like the idea. At some point I trout drift in areas where the current etc., without a care in the world. All of amazing fish as they grow in size and may purchase one, but not yet. I don’t is flowing faster. The hull design of the a sudden one of the monsters—let’s call sophistication is what fishing is really think we are quite there with the angler/ power drifter bridges the gap between him Walter—chomps down a great big all about. It’s a game of cat-and-mouse trout cat-and-mouse game that a power a powerboat and a drift boat; the flat hunk of flesh with a few eggs attached that will never end, and it is something drifter is a necessity. bottom allows the power drifter to run to it. Unfortunately for Walter, this is that I look forward to as it constantly Drift boats are still the best way to fast on step, but I feel the flat hull will a well-crafted . He now has a keeps me pressing the boundaries of be the sneakiest, offering the rower the also create extra drag for the average complete temper tantrum, thrashing the patterns I create, spending many sleepless nights thinking of ways to A power drifter sits at the ready. outsmart and stay ahead of the big fish. If you continue to be observant, patient and push yourself, you have no choice but to become a better, smarter angler. So, next time you’re on the river Creating the perfect pattern for fishing Alaska’s most educated trout takes a lot of choosing that big-fish pattern, consider trial and error in the guides’ laboratory. motor noise and what you will do about, jumping out of the water and be warier in general. So, patience is not right after tangling with a mighty then suddenly takes off. His buddies just a virtue but also a successful long- Kenai rainbow. know what just happened and all term fishing strategy for the big trout. get a quick case of lockjaw. They will continue this hunger strike until their Tying it Together world calms down and returns to a The Kenai is an amazing fishery andI Nick Ohlrich is co-owner/guide for Alaska more natural, undisturbed state. Hence, feel blessed to have spent so much time Drift Away Fishing. For more info check out hitting Walter’s spot again too soon not floating its waters. It is great fun to their website at www.guidekenairiver.com or only decreases the likelihood of another watch and learn the ever-evolving habits contact them at [email protected] large strike, but also encourages fish to of Kenai trout and to figure out how or 1-877-999-8677.

76 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 77 ½ loaf marble rye bread 8 slices swiss cheese

In a coffee grinder, place mustard seeds, fennel seeds and coriander seeds and grind to a fine dust. Mix all salmon rub ingredients together. Rub on both sides of salmon, cover tightly and marinade salmon for 24 hours.

Fennel Slaw Julienne cabbage, apple and fennel. Place in bowl. Chop shallot, garlic and cilantro all together and place in a separate bowl; stir in mayonnaise and blend well, slowly adding apple cider vinegar. Add dressing to fennel slaw and marinade overnight.

Russian Dressing Grate onion with a Microplane into bowl and then add remaining ingredients and mix well. Salmon Reuben by Chef Barbara Palacios, Baranof , Sitka, AK Heat a sauté pan with olive oil, salt Russian Dressing For this recipe, use fresh seasonal salmon— salmon and sauté; cook salmon to preferred 1 cup mayonnaise king salmon is used here, but sockeye or temperature (medium rare) and top with coho also make for a delicious sandwich ¼ cup chili sauce swiss cheese and cover to melt cheese. Toast when the runs are in. Also, as Sitka is the 1 tbsp grated white onion city in which the United States completed 4 tbsp horseradish rye bread and spread Russian dressing on the purchase of Alaska from Russia, it’s only 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce each piece; add salmon with swiss cheese to right that we use a house-made Russian ½ tsp Spanish paprika one toasted rye, top with fennel slaw and dressing. Pinch of salt cover with other toasted rye.

Ingredients: Fennel Slaw Four 6 oz portions fresh Alaska Half a red cabbage, julienned king salmon 1 Gala apple, julienned 2 tbsp olive oil 1 fennel bulb, julienned

Salmon Rub Fennel Slaw Dressing ½ tbsp cracked black pepper ½ cup mayonnaise Baranof Fish Market ½ tbsp coriander ½ cup apple cider vinegar 1 shallot, minced 201 Katlian St. #110 ½ tbsp yellow mustard seed Sitka, AK 99835 1 tbsp Spanish paprika 1 garlic clove, minced 907-747-2755 ½ tbsp fennel seed 1 tbsp cilantro, chopped Pinch of salt Monday-Sunday 11am-10pm

Alaska Seafood: Wild, Natural, Sustainable. It’s the consumer’s preference

7878 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com July 2017 August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 79 Sailing Inc...... 15 Pristine Ventures ...... 66 Sitka Ravn Alaska ...... 75 Alaska Premier Charters ...... 40 Remote Properties ...... 49 Anchorage Fish Baranof ...... 18 Sportsman’s Alliance for Alaska ...... 21 Soldotna Sportsman’s Warehouse ...... 2 Adventures In Eye Care ...... 17 Alaska Drift Away Fishing ...... 68 National Alaska Air Charter & Transport ...... 47 Corsetti’s Guide Service ...... 68 Acme Tackle ...... 50 Alaska Fly Fishers ...... 23 Golden International ...... 34 Alaska Outdoors TV ...... 58 Alaska Hearing & Tinnitus Center ...... 17 Kenai River Charters ...... 15 Ande Monofilament ...... 62 Alaska Performance RV & Marine ...... 47 Kenai Riverside Fishing ...... 23 Angler West TV ...... 80 Alaska Raft & Kayak ...... 70 Senor Pancho’s ...... 35 Bissell Insurance Agency ...... 26 Alex Hotel & Suites ...... 47 Soldotna Inn/Mykels ...... 34 BnR Tackle Bridge Seafood ...... 35 ...... 73 Soldotna Trustworthy Hardware & Fishing ...... 9, 84 Club Paris ...... 34 Clackacraft Drift Boats ...... 14 Sweeney’s Clothing ...... 68 FisheWear ...... 8 Eagle Claw ...... 59 Sterling Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant ...... 34 Eppinger Manufacturing Company ...... 6 Alaska Canoe ...... 68 Home Instead Senior Care ...... 17 Fenwick ...... 83 Talkeetna Kincaid Grill ...... 35 Garmin ...... 5 Alaska Off-Road ATV Adventures ...... 69 Mexico in Alaska ...... 34 Hi-Point Firearms ...... 54 Dave Fish Alaska ...... 69 Mossy’s Fly Shop ...... 22-23, 32-33 Hyde Drift Boats ...... 27 Love-Lee Cabins ...... 69 Oomingmak ...... 48 Izorline ...... 41 Talkeetna Air Taxi ...... 69 PenAir ...... 43 Lamiglas ...... 69 Togiak Ravn Alaska ...... 75 Mantus Anchors ...... 29 Togiak River Lodge ...... 13 Rural Energy Enterprises ...... 37 Maxx Dry ...... 33 Valdez Six Robblees ...... 26 North River ...... 24 Alaskan Adventures Unlimited ...... 24 Tebow Financial Group ...... 6 Onyx ...... 28 Eagle’s Rest RV Park ...... 4 The Bait Shack ...... 47 Outfitter Satellite ...... 19 Fish Central ...... 4 The Lakefront Anchorage ...... 79 Pacific Eyewear ...... 50 FNM Alaska ...... 24 True Life Chiropractic ...... 16 P-Line ...... 60 The Fat Mermaid ...... 4, 34 Turnagain Dental ...... 17 Pflueger ...... 82 Cordova Valdez Convention & Visitors Bureau ...... 29 Phantom ...... 24 Valdez Fish Derbies ...... 4 Alaskan Wilderness Outfitting Company ...... 18 Plano Molding ...... 19 Wasilla Dillingham Pro-Troll ...... 31 Alaska Frontier Fabrication ...... 24 Bay Air ...... 13 Promar ...... 31 Elise Buchholz, Jack White Real Estate ...... 30 Nushagak River Adventures ...... 12 Salamander Sinkers ...... 48 Eagle River Extreme Fun Center ...... 32 SeaArk Boats ...... 25 Six Robblees ...... 26 Eagle River Polaris and Arctic Cat ...... 55 Seaguar ...... 73 Fairbanks The Grape Tap ...... 35 Sightmark ...... 51 Whittier Explore Fairbanks ...... 71 Silver Horde ...... 43 JaxMax Adventures ...... 78 Pristine Ventures ...... 66 Skinner Sights ...... 8 Whittier Marine Charters ...... 48 Six Robblees ...... 26 Sportsman’s Alliance for Alaska ...... 21 Statewide Girdwood Thomas Spinning Lures ...... 33 Alaska Division of Forestry ...... 40 Chair 5 Restaurant ...... 34 TRY Group for Cold Fold Fish Boxes ...... 42 Haines Alaska Paracord Designs ...... 73 Wicked Lures ...... 61 Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute ...... 78 Alaska Sport Shop ...... 42 Wilderness Pack Specialties ...... 7 Alaska State Troopers ...... 11 Outfitter Sporting Goods ...... 41 XTRATUF ...... 39 Homer Alaska Wild Gear ...... 63 International Alaskan Brewing Company ...... 79 Brooks Alaskan Adventures ...... 7 Bradley Smoker ...... 38 Fred Meyer ...... 19, 33, 77 Winter King Fishing ...... 7 Hot Spot ...... 43 Iliamna LifeMed Alaska ...... 61 Jurassic Lake Lodge ...... 60 PenAir ...... 43 Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge ...... 76 Angry Eagle Lodge ...... 12 Talarik Creek Lodge ...... 12 Indian Indian Valley Meats ...... 30 Juneau Alaskan Brewing Company ...... 79 Western Auto Marine ...... 50 Katmai Naknek River Camp ...... 81 Kenai Kenai Golf Course ...... 68 King Salmon Bear Trail Lodge ...... 10 Branch River Air Service ...... 13 Frigate Adventure Travel ...... 13 Naknek River Camp ...... 81 Kodiak Budget Car Rental of Kodiak ...... 67 Discover Kodiak ...... 67 Fish Kodiak Adventures ...... 67 Kodiak Combos ...... 33 Kodiak Russian River Lodge ...... 67 Vertigo Air ...... 67 Naknek Bear Trail Lodge ...... 10 Blue Fly B&B Guide Service ...... 13 Naknek River Camp ...... 81 Naknek Trading Company ...... 20 Ninilchik Tilgner’s ...... 78 Nushagak Bristol Bay Adventures ...... 13 Nushagak River Adventures ...... 12 Palmer Bleeding Heart Brewery ...... 79 Noisy Goose Café ...... 35 Tebow Financial Group ...... 14 Prince of Wales Island Alaska’s Fish Tales Lodge ...... 57 Log Cabin Sporting Goods ...... 57 McFarland’s Floatel ...... 57 Quinhagak Reel Action Alaska Lodge ...... 12 Seldovia Beyond Beaches Alaska ...... 7 Seward Aurora Charters ...... 15 80 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 81 Where The Wild Things Are Story by Connor Tapscott

The rising sun scattered its light like a wildfire over the mountains of Alaska as we drove through the remote countryside. The old van we occupied, hardened by this rough landscape, groaned loudly as the weight of the drift boat trailing behind pulled mercilessly against the rusty trailer hitch. The windshield was made almost completely nontransparent by a series of intricate cracks branching off to the ends of the glass like a spider web. Inside, the tired passengers remained quiet, listening to the rattling of the rods and the exuberant exclamations of our guide, Jorge. Jorge bounced up and down with excitement in the driver’s seat, itching to get out on the water. “Generally, I find I am more excited to fish than my clients,” he said, andI believed him. It was like watching a little kid waiting to open his birthday presents. Growing up in southern California, Jorge learned to love the water from an early age. Through his native tongue, which included mostly California surf slang, he explained his journey from working on charter fishing boats throughout the West Coast, to becoming a guide and plumber in Alaska. Plumbing keeps his hands busy in the offseason, he explained, while his mind constantly wanders to fishing. His big smile widened with any mention of fishing, showing his fake front tooth. His face looked young, but his actual age remained a mystery. He had the least amount of facial hair of any guide I have encountered, which is critical, as I initially and almost solely base the credibility of my guides on the amount of beard growth they have accumulated. Thus, Jorge’s mere stubble speckled face alarmed me. However, he quickly dashed these concerns as he unloaded heaps of knowledge on our tired minds about the river and fishery. “Fish are like my children,” he eventually stated after his college- level lecture on fish biology. Jorge’s kindhearted personality emerged throughout the float. Each beautiful pool and riffle seemed to hold a story of catching or losing monster rainbows. Then, while focusing on my indicator drifting over a salmon bed in the teal-colored water, a sudden echoing thud erupted from the back of the drift boat. Beads and flies went everywhere as Jorge leapt almost clean into the glacial river in a single explosive bound. The large, angry Alaska rainbow on the end of our fellow angler’s line shot out of the water like a torpedo, thrashed his head, and the fish was gone. “That was awesome!” Jorge shouted as he gave the girl responsible for the long- distance release an excited high-five. I have never seen somebody so thrilled to lose a fish. I was devastated we didn’t pull in that river hog, but Jorge’s genuine excitement had me looking on the bright side. “Seeing these big rainbows jump is enough thrill for us guides,” he said, trying to validate his explosion—and probably also make his client feel better. The big rainbow couldn’t have been on the line for more than five seconds but that was plenty to get our fish-obsessed guide’s blood pumping. He settled back into his seat and slipped his hands over the oars. With a huge smile on his face he proceeded to calmly steer away from a fallen tree a few feet from our bow, which we had practically drifted straight into during the excitement. Our lines did not remain loose very often that day as Dolly Varden, salmon and smaller rainbows were inhaling our beads. However, none of us were ever as pumped about the fish as our trout-loving guide, Jorge.

This is the first time Connor Tapscott’s work has appeared inFish Alaska magazine. 82 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017 August/September 2017 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 83 84 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com August/September 2017