Узбекистан Uzbekistan 186 © LonelyPlanetPublications pitable – yet another prime attraction inthisoddly endearingcountry. pitable –yetanotherprimeattraction is nosainteither. Despite itall,theUzbekpeople remain good-spirited andgenuinelyhos- currentTimur, andStalin.The leader,IslamKarimov, country’slong-serving Khan Nasrullah unsung naturalattractions. andanimpressive fortresses which includedazzlingbazaars,ancientdesert arrayoflargely notwithstanding).Alas,theysometimesovershadow effort thecountry’sotherattractions, architecture thatblendswiththesand. caravansand the region, serpentinedesert dervishes, conjuringupimagesofknife-twirling Khiva. The epitomise namespractically , would ownthetop-three entries:, run the territory we now call Uzbekistan sincetimeimmemorial. run theterritory wenowcallUzbekistan few badapplesover theyears. Tyrantsenamoured bythecountry’sphysicalbountyhave fascinating historyofthecountry.Butasstudentsthatknow,it’salsosprunga home toaspellbindingarsenalofarchitecture alldeeplyinfusedwiththeraw, andartefacts, The region’sas Uzbekistan. cradleofculture formore thantwomillennia,itistheproud No countryinCentral Asia seemstohave itsogood,yetatthesametimehave itsobad, All of that is enough to eclipse the bad memories evoked by names such as Jenghiz Khan, bynamessuchasJenghizKhan, All ofthatisenoughtoeclipsethebadmemoriesevoked Seen inperson,theBigThree donotdisappoint(theoccasionaloverzealous restorative Concentrating onthegood,ifthere wasaHallofFame

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(Thank you) (Thank Population Phrases €1 =1628S Money Karakalpak Languages Borat’s neighbour TimurSamarkand, (Tamerlane), being Famous For Country Code Capital Area 447,400 sqkm Uzbeksum;US$1=1238S;

Salom aleikum 25.2million Uzbek, Russian,Tajik, Plov, % tastypomegranates, 998 (Hello); Rakhmat

for Central Asian cities,Uzbekistan UZBEKISTAN 187 and community-based and community-based National Park, and camel and National Park, All the above sights can be sights can be All the above hiking hiking atkal US$1.05/0.95 Shashlyk US$0.30-0.50 Shashlyk 1L of petrol US$0.50 Snickers bar US$0.40 bus ride US$1 100km One-minute US/UK phone call to the hour US$0.50-0.80 per Internet skull cap US$2-4 Uzbek US$0.40 1L of bottled water US$0.75-1 Domestic beer (bar) US$0.50 Domestic beer (store) „ „ HOW MUCH? „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „

The summer furnace of 35°C days lasts 40 The summer furnace of the high seasonIn this chapter, is spring tourism near Lake Aidarkul and the Nu- rata Mountains. should head south to the archaeologi- should head south to back to flying before Termiz cal oasis of for some museum hopping, Tashkent good food and a night or two on the consider the should town. Bazaar lovers Termiz. of instead Valley Fergana From June to August average afternoon afternoon From June to August average One month pace. relaxed seen in a month at a more and the Fer- You can hit both Termiz time to and devote more gana Valley natural wonders: exploring Uzbekistan’s including hiking, rafting or skiing in Ugam-Ch trekking,

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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO desert. Summer are Uzbekistan of Large areas is long, hot and dry; spring is mild and rainy; autumn has light and rains; and winter, frosts although short, is unstable with snow and below freezing. temperatures The aver- hit 32°C or higher. temperatures is 40°C in annual maximum temperature age and April. Most rain falls in March June. August. The days from mid-July to the end of lasts 40 days from Christmas winter of worst see also the Cli- February; week of to the first . p446 Charts, mate and autumn May) to the end of (mid-March November). (September to the beginning of Summer is from June to August, and winter is from December to February. (silk near Lake near Lake

suzani in Shakhrisabz in Shakhrisabz

Carmen for a dollar Silk in Margilon ( p220 ), p220 ( Silk in Margilon •• Highlights UZBEKISTAN ) ( p223 The breathtaking Start in Bukhara, either with Fly west to Nukus and spend Fly to Urgench from where it’s it’s from where Fly to Urgench ( p236 ) Exquisitely preserved ( p252 ) The last independent khanate ) The last independent khanate p252 (

frozen in time amid the desert.frozen in time amid the Khiva leads a formidable cast of larger- Registan of leads a formidable cast gems. architectural Timurid than-life Samarkand One week to the ‘museum ride a short shared-taxi Khiva. Spend a day wandering city’ of around the walled old city, Ichon-Qala. taxi to by shared The next day travel Bukhara and Samarkand, giving each place an extra day. On your last day in an opera and a museum catch Tashkent or two.

Aidarkul. After three days covering Sa- days covering three Aidarkul. After markand and vicinity, history buffs a half-day Central appreciating Asia’s art collection in the Savitsky greatest south to Khiva via the Museum. Head Elliq Qala. of ancient ruined fortresses Around Bukhara, a time-out from take with a yurtstay architecture Two weeks and cotton coverlets) ) and everything the sun in under p232 ( Bukhara ( p246 ). or a domestic flight from Tashkent Turkmenistan. from Wander overland and tour the Ark, around Lyabi-Hauz, and the gape at the 47m Kalon ensembles.stunning medressa Pamper yourself in a bodacious B&B, then zip to Samarkand the next morning to explore architec- Timurid-era the four pearls of the Registan, Bibi Khanym Mosque, ture: and Guri Amir Mauso- Shah-i-Zinda tak- exit to , leum. On day three ing a detour on the way to Shakhrisabz or bazaar (Sunday and Thursday the Urgut only). Three days Crafty Uzbekistan ceramics in Rishton ( p221 ), p221 ceramics in Rishton ( holy city boasting stunning 15th-century stunning 15th-century holy city boasting and fascinat- awesome B&Bs medressas, ing history. Quirky Cultural Gems Opera & Alisher Navoi at Tashkent’s Central (p207) and Ballet Theatre Asia’s in Nukus’ Savitsky art collection greatest Museum ( p259 ). Bukhara

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