YRC 'Alpine' meet from Fuente De, at the end of the Liebana valley. However, long queues Picos de Europa were sometimes experienced for the descent to the valley at the end of the July - August 1995 day. Compiled by John Devenport Potes was a bustling, attractive old town, with plenty of character and The venue characters. The Monday moming The meet was based about 2km from market was well worth a visit, where Potes, about 80 miles from Santander the usual range of market fare could on the east side of the Picos de be purchased, plus pigs, sheep, Europa. The Picos are perhaps the chickens and a wide range of other finest and most compact set ofridges, livestock. Shops and supermarkets pinnacles and gorges of hard provided a very cheap source of carboniferous limestone in Westem provisions and local produce. The Europe and form the highest part of local specialities included cider, a wide the Cantabrian mountain range in range ofcheeses and chorizo sausage. northern Spain. The Picos are split into three distinct massifs by deep gorges running north to south. Potes was an excellent base for access to the Central and eastem massifs and the Cordillera Cantabrica to the south. It is a region of Karst topography, underground rivers, resurgences, deep caves, gorges, steep valleys, sharp peaks and long steep rock faces. The Old hollowed tree-trunk beehives in use in a village above Pates higher mountains reaching up to about 8,700 feet are quite different to most The campsite other ranges visited by members ofthe Our base was on the well appointed club, being almost totally void of campsite 'Las Isla Picos de Europa' in water, quite a problem in the Turieno, about 2km west of Potes, in extremely high temperatures that were Cantabria. (Tel: (942) 73 08 96). The experienced during our stay. staff made us feel most welcome TIle lower pastures and alps above the during our stay, and many of us took gorges offered lush vegetation with advantage of the cooling pleasures of abundant fauna and flora. Probably the the swimming pool during the highlight of the trip was the oppressive heat in the aftemoons. particularly varied bird life, with many Thanks must go to Alan Linford for species not found in the u.K., most finding us such a good base. notably the birds of prey and especially the Griffon Vultures that were a memorable companions on The climate many days in the high mountains. For much ofour stay, the weather was The very steep sided valleys meant generally fine, clear and very, very that reaching the higher levels hot, which meant that copious involved a considerable slog, or use of supplies ofliquid needed carrying on a the comparatively cheap telepherique hips into the waterless landscape of

TIlCYRC Bulletin 59 Summer 1996 the high mountains. Being so close to The Picos by bike by Martyn the Atlantic northern coast of Spain, Wakeman the area was subject to mountain mists Watching the snow falling outside of and summer storms. my window, it seems strange to think Maps and guide books that last August we were in the middle The most useful guide book to the of a heat wave. Then to go cycling area was 'Walks and climbs in the somewhere even hotter seemed to Picos de Europa' by Robin Walker indicate the onset ofcerebral dementia and published by Cicerone Press or something a mite more interesting (£10.95). than a week in Skegness! Maps were somewhat more I had a problem. How exactly was I to problematic, with many inaccuracies transport myself and a mere and deficiencies noted. However, 'sprinkling' of gear to Potes, probably the most useful were the somewhere in Northern Spain. All cars following two maps: seemed full and not fancying a battle with Spanish public transport, I 1:25,000 Los Unielles Y Andara decided to saddle up my bike and find (Macizos Central Y Oriental de Los an excuse for an extension to the Picos de Europa) holiday. This proved to be a smart 1:75,000 Picos de Europa - Mapa move, as 'The Picos by bike' proved Excursionista (Miguel A Adrados) to be one of the most varied and interesting parts of my summer. After Getting there a few frantic phone calls and a gear Apart from a long drive through dump somewhere in Yorkshire, my France, most members travelled to gear was on its way in David Smith's northern Spain, either by Brittany caravan, and I could hop on the ferry Ferries from Portsmouth to Santander, to Santander with my mountain bike or by P&O Ferries from Portsmouth loaded up with four days worth of to Bilbao. The most convenient was delightful Soya mince and noodles undoubtedly the latter, which was only together with lightweight a couple of hours drive through bivvi/camping gear. spectacular gorge scenery to Potes. Rather than extensive planning, I mused over a contourless Michelin map of Northern Spain and plotted a The attendees pleasant looking route around the Ken Aldred John Medley coast and through the mountains to Steve Beresford Alistair Renton Potes. I would cycle as far each day as Christine Beresford David Smith I fancied and bivvi wherever looked Ken Bratt Elspeth Smith suitable, to arrive just as the main Alan Brown Michael Smith YRC pat1y. descended on the CliffCobb Helen Smith campsite. John Devenport Richard Smith Cycling in Spain proved to be both a lain Gilmore Fiona Smith delight and a new experience. I Sarah Gilmore Derek Smithson stormed off the ferry and visited Cabo Mike Godden Bill Todd Mayor lighthouse for a view of the Marcia Godden Juliet White harbour before winding my way along Alan Linford Martyn Wakeman the coast road to Santillana del Mar, a Angie Linford

'lbe YRCBulletin 60 Summer 1996 traditional 'National Trust' style peaks of the Picos could be seen Spanish village, full of nick knack shimmering in the distance, inspiring shops and very photogenic. me to read more of the guide book Continuing on to San Vicente de la and plan strategic bags for the two Barquera for an aftemoon nap, I had a weeks ahead. fairly easy day finishing at a secluded The process to cool down at the campsite at Pechon overlooking a sea campsite consisted of a cold shower bay. This was gained by a steep and a rinse of my sweaty rags before winding road, which exercised low drying in the sun. The campsite was gears for the first time. noisy, with lights on all night, and it The local Spanish holidaymakers even had the cheek to rain! An early seemed impressed by my Goretex start to gain miles in the morning cool bivvi bag as I feasted on huge before the sun became too hot became tomatoes, the dreaded Soya and a wise move as today was the 40 mile noodles, and luscious nectarines. The climb into the mountains, from sea evening was spent skimming stones level passing over several cols to a before a well eamed kip after the sun high point of 1450m. A day to had gone for the day. remember, a road winding around a river into a steepening gorge, The next day's target would be eventually with walls ofrock each side Cangas, which looked pretty easy on and peaks soaring above, beckoning to the map, but this did not show be climbed. The road was rough, pock contours! Being a 'green' scenic road, marked with holes from rock missiles, it wound along by a river through a and as the sun bumed down in full gentle gorge Worried about anger, the tar melted with 'Panaracer dehydration and the weight of canying Smoke' tyre marks visible in the worst too much water on the bike, I had patches. Lunch was a two hour feast gone into camel mode, drinking all I could in the moming, and going for of goats cheese, a whole fresh loaf, two litres of water and more only two bottles on the bike. Just nectarines in a strategically placed before lunch time as the sun blazed rural Spanish village. down, I was low on water, and needing a rest when a hill, or rather a Ever onwards, ever upwards was the pass, which did not register on the motto for the day but the heat was map. I thought I would combust, it incredible, with sweat pouring off and was so hot! The exchange of pesetas rests in the woods by the road for water and nectarines in a shop like necessary to cool down once every someone's living room at the top was hour. At last, the summit, or rather the very welcome, as was the fantastic first col, was gained followed a few free wheel down nearly all the way to more uphill bits before a tyre humming Changes. kamikaze dive down the other side, losing height very quickly, braking Some mountain biking up a rough very hard at comers to avoid meeting stony track lead me to my tourist stop my maker earlier than desired. for the day, the Cueva del Buxu. These are supposed to be caves with A lovely campsite with just some basic wall paintings, but the exterior ones loos and the mandatory cold shower revealed nothing and the rest were was found a few kilometres before held off by a locked door. With only Posada de Valdon. This was in a field the local flies for company, the main surrounded by a tiny village out of a

The YRCBulletin 61 Summer 1996 time warp, tumbling houses with no Ascent of Pico Tesorero (2570m) glass in the windows, women dressed by lain Gilmour in black, carts full of hay, with a backdrop of the harsh rock peaks of When AIan and Angie Linford the Picos. suggested a look at a nice hill somewhere over on the left, two Next day, I could either ascend two willing members, John Devenport and more giant passes and come into Potes lan Gilmour, joined the party. One from the south, or try a Land Rover hesitates to detail the :first part of the track which I had spotted on a large trip, for from our campsite at 1,100 ft. scale map. This track was said to be we motored to Fuente De at 3,600 ft. uncycleable, so with all the more and then took the cable car to 6,017 reason to give it a bash I set off. The ft. Our cable car rose through cloud first pass was gained via a narrow and into brilliant sunshine and cool air, and steep road out of Posada de Valdon the views over a cloud sea were which gave way to a modem road reminiscent offlying. which led to the top. Engaging :first gear I spurred my wheel offthe road The landscape around us was a vast and onto the track, which would save arena of limestone peaks with jagged road miles and prove greatly more outlines like Sgurr nan Gillean, but of interesting. The track did prove great a warm golden colour. Between the fun, a monster slog, but I eventually peaks lay hollow depressions, called arrived at the top at 1800m, with an hoyos, with a strange almost lunar awesome view of the massif and the appearance. There is almost no valley down towards Potes. vegetation, due to the altitude and over grazing by the few sheep and The descent down the other side native rebecos (a small deer like proved one of the best of my life, animal with thin backward curving 800m height loss down rough Land horns). The lack ofwater necessitates Rover tracks (the latter one later carrying two or three litres for a long ascended by the Nissan 4 x 4 tourist day. party) twisting and turning over the hard dry track, dodging boulders and Some three miles from the cable car pot holes. Stops had to be made due station, we reached the Veronica Hut to the temperature of the rims at 7,600 ft. Near this hut, a band of decomposing the brake blocks, and different rock had weathered to even with oil/air front suspension, the expose thousands of fossils including descent was eyeball wobbling as I tubular worms (crinoids) which had hammered down to the cable car at existed on ancient sea beds. Fuente De before chasing a coach At this stage AIan casually mentioned down to the campsite. that we would be alright, as he had a An amazing start to the holiday, a real rope in his rucksack. Could it be that adventure for me being in a foreign our look at the peak might require land and not speaking a word of the climbing gear, rather than spectacles lingo and totally reliant on my bike not or binoculars? There was no need to falling to pieces. Just feeling free to be apprehensive, for the South West cycle where I fancied amidst glorious ridge of Tesorero gave a splendid surroundings, sleeping under the stars scramble over warm and dry rock with and soaking in the real Spanish plenty of holds and no difficulties. culture. Good grimping rock was the verdict.

The YRC Bulletin 62 Summer 1996 Tesorero, 8,430 ft., is a splendid layer. Our path followed closely the viewpoint for the whole ofthe Central Rio Buron before opening out into a Massif and incidentally, is the junction playa. Much of the vegetation was point of three provinces, Asturias, extremely prickly and no help in the Cantabria and Castilla-Leon. ascent, the rough texture of the rock on the other hand was a great asset. Returning by the East ridge and viewing a spectacular rock arch on the A little higher the river divided, we skyline, we descended to the col at followed the course of the Canal de 7,700 ft. Two of the party made the las Arredondas in which flows the Rio twenty minute dash up Torre de de la Vega in wetter times. The rocky Horcados Rojos by the walkers path. canal took us to the deserted zinc and Our return to the cable car was lead mines ofMina de las Arredondas memorable for the sighting of four above Le Campa. To gain respite from Griffon vultures soaring on the the sweltering heat we penetrated the afternoon breeze and thermals. workings for 100 yards or so, an Looking at the hills is a splendid arrow pointing the way out marked pastime. the junction oftwo passages. Later we discovered that Derek and Martyn had put it there during their search for Pico de Grajal Abajo (2248m) water a week earlier. by David Smith Refreshed by the cool air we moved Midway through the second week of carefully up the course of the canal the meet, lain suggested that we have over steep and very sharp rock to the a day on the hills together, joined by 2193m col. It was a mere 55m below Steve with an objective high above the the easily gained summit of the grand tiny village of Lon. We had sounding named mountain, Pico de contemplated walking direct from the Grajal de Abajo. Had there been mist campsite but after second thoughts we and had we walked 2 metres beyond went by car giving us a 520m start. the magnificent cairn, we would have Our tired feet were to be very glad of plunged 2000 feet down the this by the end ofthe long day. precipitous northern edge of the mountain into the Vega del Hoyo Lon straddles the hillside with Oscuro. How different the mountain picturesque old houses joined by steep must look from the north facing side? rough concrete roads. Quite soon the road degenerated into a dusty track We enjoyed the views, we took leading upwards, :first through pictures and we rested in the sunshine woodland providing shade from the before our descent to Lon. We had merciless sun, then across two small ascended 5,700 feet to make the newly cut meadows before opening climb, it was a great day in the out into a deep valley. A layer of mountains, but with good weather, cloud had to be passed through before goods views, good health and good we emerged back into the sunshine. company, what more could any man want. The cotton wool cloud totally obscured the valley. The mountain Lone mountain climbing may suit peaks look like islands in a billowing some, but for my part let me share the sea, the Cantabrian mountains experiences and the pleasures with like contrasting sharply with the cloud minded friends.

The YRC Bulletin 63 Summer 1996 The Eastern Massif ofwater from which to :fill our bottles. This appeared to feed from melting by Martyn Wakeman snow, but was probably laced with Having already climbed several peaks whatever metal they used to mine. in the Western massif I jumped at the Cliffs rose above us, and the chance to accompany Derek Smithson contrasting green of the valley on one of his legendary expeditions. woodland could be seen providing a One ofthe greatest joys ofbeing in the grand stance to spend a happy mountains is camping or bivvying up evening. Tails of past mountain trips high where the grandeur and solitude were exchanged, and the wonder of of the mountains can really soak in. snow shoes explained before a long We therefore accompanied the 'Last leisurely tea finishing with Derek's of the summer wine' in Alan's Landy super luxury lemon crunch pudding. to the village of Lon and departed on Two slugs appeared as we wriggled our way with bivvi gear and enough into bivvi bags for a splendid night's food for three days, slapping greedy sleep, escaping the fug of the valley. insects off our legs. We walked When we awoke, low cloud swirled through the wooded lowlands to around, but after several brews it emerge onto a lovely grassy began to clear. Packs on, we climbed prominence, above which the peaks up to the ridge in the cool of the mist soared and the rest ofthe route could before leaving un-needed gear cached be seen. This would have made an for the return. The ring of peaks that excellent base camp for attacking this form the backbone of the Andora area if supplies could be helicoptered Massif provided an excellent days .I m. scrambling, culminating in the Morra Captivated by the scenery, we took a de Lechugales (2444m), a towering wrong turn following a stream bed prow of rock like a ships bow, with until a huge chockstone blocked our views of the western massif and the way. The following ascent of a steep valley below. Traversing back, we grassy bank, which felt near vertical, discovered why the 'La Rasa de la was hair raising and decidedly dodgy, Inagotable' had that particular name. especially with a big pack, but we Traversing around its rocky terraces, soon retraced our steps onto the we avoided scaling it's cliffs which correct route. A climb through scree would make an excellent day in their led to a lunch stop of bread, goats own right. cheese and jam before continuing up After regaining our sacs, we climbed the miners track to the Mina de las La Junciana and Pico del Sagrado Arredondas. People who slogged up Corazon where the cast statue of St here each day deserve respect - they Carlos glimmered in the sun and were hard in those days. Here was vultures swooped overhead. An supposed to be a mine shaft where enormous wing feather fi..om one of water could be collected from a drip in the birds was found and added to our the tunnel roof, and we mused on the motley appearance, sticking out ofmy likelihood of this as we searched for karrimat. the appropriate mine shaft. The descent down scree of Canal de After some exploring, it was time to San Carlos revealed numerous pot don Petzels and grovel in the gloom holes which begged for exploration, for about lOOm before finding a pool but time was pressing and we

The YRC Bulletiu 64 Summer 1996 ------

continued down the track. This is Flowers of the Picos de Europa where the fun really started as the map by Cliff Cobb and ground didn't agree despite determined efforts to make them do High summer is not the best time for so! After a bit of a fat: we basically alpine flowers, but we were very headed downward by wandering along agreeably surprised at the wealth of tracks and paths through the woods flowers encountered, particularly in towards the valley. Attempts at the higher, completely arid mountain communicating in Spanish farmers areas. resulted in confusion, but at least their A typical example; while lunching dog didn't eat us. Slowly the tracks among the jumble of rocks merged into bigger ones and we found immediately below the Veronica cabin signs of life in a small village nestling we saw a beautiful example of in the woods. campanula thriving in a tiny crevice, When confronted by a local lady as to its roots no doubt penetrating feet (or our activities, she seemed awe struck metres) into the rock. that we had visited the St Carlos A further notable point was the statue and we extracted ourselves occasional sudden change ill from her presence before we were any geological formation, with a later home. A simple walkout back to corresponding change in the flora. the campsite then resulted and satisfied explorers could take offtheir Two special memories for me - the boots, rest their feet, fill their wide expanse of the 'merendera' on stomachs and tell tales to their the edge of the Vega de Liordes companions. Thank you Derek for valley, and secondly the superb steel your company and for an excellent blue thistles (eryngium bourgatii), lit two days! be the brilliant sun, a colour I believe impossible to capture on film One disappointment was the absence ofany gentians, presumably due to the predominantly calcareous rock, although other members did see trumpet gentians (g. acaulis) in one of the surrounding valleys.

List of flowers Achilles erba-rotta Simple leaf milfoil Arabis vochinensis Compact rockress Campanula Various Crepis Hawksbeard Dianthus Various These contraptions were seen in several of Doronicus grandiflorum Large flowered the villages on the hills round Potes. leopardsbane Two villages had older, wooden versions. Erica Various Each contraption is large enough to restrain Eryngium bourgatii Pyrenean eryngo a horse, cow or donkey, possibly while Geranium Various vetenary or shoeing work is carried out. Geum montanum Alpine avens The top rails may support a shelter. Iris latifolia English iris Linaria origanifolia Toadflax

The YRCBulletin 65 Summer 1996 Lithodora oleifolia Shrubby gromwell gammg height early had a special Lithodora purpurocaerulla Blue gromwell appeal. It was our first exposure to Now Buglossoides typical Picos de Europa terrain. Steep­ Lunaris redivivar Honesty Merendera montana sided 'dolomite-shaped' mountains Parnassia palustris Grass of Parnassus with jagged ridges, seemingly Pinguicala No flowers but typical inaccessible in all but a few places. pale yellow/green foliage The steepness of every approach Petasites albus White butter-burr brought the ridges closer so we were Potentilla cinerea Grey cinquefoil constantly aware of the grandeur of Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby cinquefoil Rhodiola rosea Roseroot our surroundings. Sepervivus montanum Mountain houseleek Day one also gave us an early Silene acaulis Moss campion Viola pyrenaica Pyrenean violet awareness of the profusion of alpine flowers and plants, which in turn, Although not identified, we ahnost attracted the greatest variety of certainly saw saxifrages and possibly butterflies most ofus had seen, details androsaces among the many yellow of which are listed later. The and white flowers amongst the grass backpackers slowly pulled ahead and undergrowth. whilst the rest of the party absorbed the spectacular mountain scenery of the Arredondas, an experience we Rambling in the Picos were to enjoy throughout the next fortnight, by Alan Brown At 1,200 metres, Las Cabanas It was disconcerting to discover back in March that the Plymouth / provided an acceptable tunring point Santander ferry was fully booked for our first day, the nine hour trek coupled with the heat being a good throughout July and August needing space for caravans or trailers. initiation for the days ahead. However, the longer Portsmouth to The crowded campsite reflected the Bilbao ferry fare included cabin national holiday period, yet apart from accommodation so this, coupled with the routes served directly by the cable the shorter motoring distance for car, we met very few kindred spirits Northerners, made the cost roughly on the hills. On two occasions we the same. A good motorway between attracted other walkers who Bilbao and Santander enabled us to mistakenly believed we could be relied reach the Potes campsite in three and on to finish a promising route in an a halfhours. orderly fashion. Aniezo, 10 kilometres east ofPotes was the starting point for Derek wanted to be off on a three day a steep ascent to the Ermita de trek as soon as possible, so day one Nuestra Sra de la Luz - a hilltop came with a 05.30 reveille. The village church a couple of hours from the of Lon, some ten minutes west of village - where we casually noted a Potes was clearly asleep as four party of five Spaniards and two walkers and two backpackers set off Swedish walkers. The circular route up the River Buron heading for the continued north-west along a good Canal de las Arredondas, Best avoided path, which then curved sharply south, during very hot weather intoned the disappearing into a steep heavily guide book, but very hot weather was wooded valley. Whilst reasonably sure a prominent feature of this meet, so of our general direction, the scarcely

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 1996 discernible path soon disappeared forming higher rock faces above. A altogether, and it was at this juncture number of isolated hamlets and small that we discovered the Spaniards and villages depending upon agriculture Swedes confidently attached to the were another difference from the rear ofour party. The angle ofdescent barren area above Fuente De. It was called for much hanging on to trees two of these villages which we visited, and branches, but the thick taking the road by tunnels driven undergrowth eventually gave way to through solid rock to bypass some open meadows, where recently very steep limestone faces. \on a shelf harvested hay allowed an easier stroll at the head ofthe valley, the further of down to the village. Profuse thanks the two villages appeared to offer an from our continental friends ended ideal holiday situation for the artist. A another good eight hour day. small church, an inn and delightful The Canal del Embudo is traversed by pantiled houses had an air of climbing 950m from the cable car restfulness in the mid-afternoon sun. A station at Fuente De, via 38 small group ofchildren played quietly. unforgivinghairpins, warned the guide Perhaps it is uncharitable to suggest book. The valley below and the that their lack of boisterousness was vertical south wall of La Padiorna to the result ofthe high temperature. The the north provided breathtaking views, variable bedrock supported a wider the torture ending with arrival in the range offlora than the solid limestone Vega de Liordes, a high alpine to the north, for the shale provided meadow surrounded on all sides by not only a different chemical base but high mountain ridges. A circular route it also appeared to retain moisture in home over the southern ridges looked within the rock. This resulted both altogether too demanding so we calcareous and acid loving plants as headed due north encouraged by a well as large trees which were taciturn Scot who knew the area and completely absent from the former understood our intentions. Here again area. A couple of footpaths winding we were joined by a middle aged along the upper reaches of the valley couple, dressed for an easy day in the gave us a series ofplatforms for views country, who were dissuaded from the of the villages and lonely farm houses, southern route. They were a game whilst the village inn was a welcome halt before returning to the campsite. couple willing but not used to the scrambling necessary over the Sedo de Finally, and with the assistance of a la Padierna and the Canal de Santa four wheel drive car taking us over Luis. Their inadequate water supplies spectacular mountain country to the caused further delays but the top of starting point at Cain, we traversed the cable car was reached in time and the Cares Gorge - Spain's answer to our guests happily plied us with cool the Grand Canyon. Much smaller of drinks before the drive back to camp. course, but very impressive, albeit the Whilst many days were spent on the most popular tourist route in the whole ofthe Picos de Europa. arid limestone area to the north west of Potes, some time was enjoyed in This was a :fine Alpine Meet, where the more varied area to the south and few actually missed the snow and south-west. Here the limestone masses where exposure to only a small area of were replaced by shale valleys with Picos de Europa territory wetted the large whaleback ribs of limestone appetite for more.

The YRC Bulletin 67 Summer 1996 Butterflies and moths observed in from the maps, it seemed reasonable the Picos by Alan Brown to consider dropping down to the road Apollo Large Copper through the Aliva area whence back to El Cable in good time for the last Blues - various * Large Fritillary * Brimstone Marble White cable car at 21. 00 hours. Best Burnett Moth Orange available advice (in imperfectly understood Spanish) was not to go (Six spot) Underwing straight down from the col but to Camberwell Painted Lady follow on below the ridge a little way Beauty Peacock Cleopatra Ringlet in a northerly direction and pick up what traces oftracks there were. This Clouded Yellow Scarce worked quite successfully; there were Common Heath Swallowtail Common Heath Tiger Moth numerous calms about, which tended teasingly to discontinue in awkward Gatekeeper Tortoiseshell places but. which were eventually * There are 44 varieties of Fritillary connected with a large painted snow­ and 42 varieties of Blue. The author pole in the middle ofa heavily cratered regrets that precise identification cannot be confirmed, area. from there the route seemed to go slightly uphill, then downwards again, following still capricious A long day in the Picos intermittent cairns and treacherously be-pebbled rock that at one point by John Medley precipitated a damaging tumble. It is traditional for the alpine meets of Eventually the slopes ran out to an the YRC to produce at least one edge, with the valley floor and road in mountain sequence sufficiently tantalising view less than 100 metres diverting and eyebrow raising to below, but here progress stopped, one require individual report. This time it member ofthe party being unprepared fell to the Old Gentlemen to provide to be committed to the only possible it. route that presented itself So back to From El Cable, the top of the the col', there should still be time to telerifiqo above Fuente De, it is a climb up, cross the ridge and catch the pleasant excursion to Pena Vieja last cable car. summit, whither four of the maturest The snow pole was regained .in Members on the meet made their way reasonable time, but then there was in the mounting heat ofthe moming of trouble. Indications ofpaths lead in all Saturday 29 July. one goes westerly directions, but one (uncaimed) was up the path towards the Cabana chosen which approached the high Veronica, then hard right up the gully ground to the north, perhaps to the Col Canalona and back remembering the difficult terrain eastwards along the ridge, then opposite and the original high level bearing left up the slope to the top of detour from the col. The ridge was the mountain. It was leisurely and eventually gained but a considerable pleasant; lunch on the summit. distance from the col, with many Back to the col, where thoughts arose obstacles between. It took a long time about an alternative route back. to come down again and work across, Although it was understood that eventually arriving at a little snow precise information could be extracted slope from which the col was known

The YRC Bulletin 68 Summer 1996 to be readily accessible. But it was The walk down to San Aniezo is already nearly dark, with cloud awful, but again a reward with a very building up in the high valleys below. close view of Short Toed Eagle - we All hope had gone ofmaking El Cable did not know what it was at the time in time; the aim now was to get down and had to consult the guide book to to the Refuge de Aliva and telephone confirm the sighting. This proved to reassurance before anybody noticed a be the start of a bounty of bird life: certain empty Landrover. Linnet, Red Kite, Black Kite, Black Redstart, Com Bunting, Snow In vain! The party admired the lights Finches, Wheatears, Choughs, of 'civilisation' just below the mist and Juvenile Robin, Buzzards, Eagles, stumbled, first into young campers Rock Thrush, Hobby, Juvenile playing games with lantems on poles, Kestrel, Tree Creepers and Rock and then into a parked Garda vehicle Thrush, that had been sent to look for confused old gentlemen reported lost We searched extensively for the Wall in the mountains. The driver was Ve1Y Creeper but failed to spot it, a lot of kind, but made it clear geriatric screeching as the Hobby swept across escapades should not be exacerbated the cliffs but no sighting. by attempting to explain in Spanish. It was the Raptors that held the Most of the meet seemed to have attention, the Egyptian Vulture and tumed up at Fuente De to assist; it Eagles only students - the master of was a happy occasion though the air is the Griffon Vulture. In the embarrassing to some and by 0200 Cares Gorge we counted twenty - ten hours everybody was in camp and in circling in a small valley - then bed. approaching closer a sighting at 200 metres of a group of Griffons feeding on a carcass. The carcass had been Bird watching in the Picos tom into two with a group on each, by Alan Linford fighting between themselves, the Bird watching in the Picos can group hierarchy clearly visible. It is seriously damage your determination not only the huge wingspan which to achieve the days objective. There is attracts the attention but the depth of so much to watch that delays are the wing needed to provide lift for the inevitable. giant body (and ugly head). On the traverse ofthe Pena Remona (2,247m) Once again, Alistair's series of we were above a group of circulating mishaps provided a benefit, his early Griffons, again at close quarters. We morning arrival having overnighted witnessed the efficiency.of this large under a hedge with a broken cycle, wing, the control movements of the delayed a start to climb El Cvemon - a primary feathers and the air flow over vantage point to obtain an overall the wing the lifting of the feathers in perspective ofthe Central and Eastem the depression zone. What a marvel of Massif Not a pleasant walk in the natural engineering. heat of the day, but rewarded with gentians on the alp, a first view of a Despite trips into woodland areas we Griffon Vulture and, our retum, a leave until our next visit sightings of close view of a pair of Black Capercaillie, Tree Pipits, Owls and Woodpeckers in the holmoak forest. Nightjars: all reported in the area.

The YRC Bulletin 69 Summer 1996 Peaks and Passes - Two people's Juliet did a nature walk on Sunday adventures in Northern Spain with Teresa Farino, the local expert, while I conserved my strength to by Bill Todd and Juliet White climb a peak. So, 10.25 a.m. found us You couldn't move for Yorkshiremen leaving the top of El Cable in good in Spain this summer. Apart from heart to attempt Torre de Los when we visited the camp site and Hocardos Rojos. But the weather got were hospitably entertained, and when worse and worse, and at the zigzags it we walked with Ian and Sarah we met started raining and blowing, so we them in the supermarkets, on the cable scuttled into the Cabana Veronica for car, in the car park and several lots in hot soup which proved to be a life the Cares Gorge. This was our first saver. By the time we'd finished our days walking after arriving on the soup (100 pesetas per cup) a queue meet a week late and will no doubt had formed in the hut entrance so we have been competently covered by had to go out into the storm and eat other members. our lunch behind a boulder. An The following day was uneventful; we attempt to explore towards Hocardos drove to Fuente De and because there Rojos met with more wind and rain in was cloud on top went for a walk up our faces so we beat a retreat. the track to Collado de Pedabejo. We heard from neighbour, Dolores, Returning from this at lunch time we about a fatal accident on Sunday 6th took advantage of improving weather involving people from Santander. We to go up the Teleferico. We hadn't gathered that a land rover had gone been there very long when cloud came over a cliffwhile on the way to a fiesta down again after a tantalising view of on top of a mountain. This was our the big peaks. I can foresee the second day with Mike, our host and embarrassing question at my next slide guide, and we left it to him to show us show, ''Did you climb it?". "No", a good day out. Driving through the "Why not?". "Bad weather". "It looks Vinon, we parked his land rover under alright on that photo". "Yes but it got Pena Jumales and set off up the track misty". "A likely tale". to Madaja Trulledes. On a bend we TIns was Wednesday 2 August and met three fellows. It tumed out that Juliet insisted on treating it as a rest one of them was. the son of the man day because we hadn't climbed who had been killed and he had come anything. So the next day we went up up with a friend and a local shepherd the highest peak in the Cordillera to see the actual location of the Cantabrica. tragedy. It seemed that the long wheel-based vehicle had not been able On Saturday 5th we did a classic walk, to take the bend in one, and reversing the circuit of the Pena Remona. This to get round, had run down the very involved following our Wednesday steep track and over the edge before track right up to Collardo de Pedabejo the driver could re-engage first gear. and crossing it into the Vega de After due commiseration we went on Liordes. This is a delightful green up to the Majado where we had lunch. basin with horses and campers and After this Mike took us up a very after walking across it in poorer steep pass, the Collardo de San Carlos weather we descended the famous to about 2000 metres, while I stayed zigzags from Collardo del Embudo. on the pass to take photographs. The

The YRC Bulletin 70 Summer 1996 return journey saw better weather and time after 2pm Westward was the we saw a wall creeper and a guinea summit tower, looking a bit like Sgurr fowl. Alastair from Sron na Ciche, and eastwards was the ridge looking a bit Friday August 11th was the day your like Crib Goeh, Over lunch in the hot idle scribe got his second and third sun we discussed what to do next. It summits. Mike was our guide again was too late for a serious attempt on and we motored through Hennida and the summit and Juliet was not keen on turned left to the village of Beges, reversing what we had just done, where we bough cheese. After this neither was 1. So we took the only Mike took us over the north-east choice left and followed the east ridge shoulder ofAgero Bis (1349m) into a just below the crest until we came to a misty wood. "I've not been this way green track sloping through the slab before" he said as we picked our way area. This was evidently the normal through the beech trees, ''but we way up to the ridge because we found should come out on the ridge you can a toffee paper on it. We were glad to see from the guest house". Of course get back into easy ground but not too we did and came out of the clouds chuffed to see a couple strolling along finding some limestone to scramble on the ridge beyond where we had left it before hitting the top and crossing to in bathing trunks and bikini the slightly lower Agero at 133Om, respectively. Today was notable for the weird shapes assumed by the cloud sea Sunday 13th was our last day and below us and for the view of Pena Mike engaged our interest by Ventosa across the Deva valley. Mike mentioning a "user friendly crag". This knew a grassy descent route to Beges. was on the lower slopes ofAgero and has the same name. Here we spent a Pena Ventosa looked interesting and pleasant, if roasting, day climbing on Mike advised us to tackle it from the V. Diff rock and abseiling. A good south east, so the following day, Juliet finish. and I drove to the nearby village of Solarzon and walked up into the For our stay, Casa Gustavo proved fields. Yes, the peak looked quite wonderful, at £25.72 per person reasonable; between the steep south per day full board, with all ofthe beer face and an area of limestone slabs or wine you wanted at the evening was a harmless looking grassy gully meal which was very good; 3 course, which led onto the ridge, from where but served quite late (about 9 p.m.) it may have been possible to tackle the for an early bed and early start. steep final tower. So above an Continental breakfast (plus cereals and awkward stretch of bracken and fruit) was 9 a.m. but we could get it broom we climbed a scree slope then earlier on request. On one such got onto our chosen route. What a occasion, Mike came running out with shambles it was. Scree under grass our packed lunches as we were driving and more broom, loose rock, Juliet away. was in front. ''What do I do ifa hold is loose?" ''Put it to one side and see what's underneath it" I replied. As these things do, it seemed to be going to level out in a few yards but it never did until we struck the ridge some

The YRC Bulletin 71 Summer 1996 A great big pile of stones - Pena backdrop of the Picos. But keep Prieta in the 80's by Juliet White going, there's walking to do, a 6.30 rendezvous at the Land Rover with Picnic lunch had been among Pena the rest of the patty, and many more Prieta's cast-offs. Ten to twenty foot stony delights ahead. lumps of nut brittle (sorry, conglomerate) thrown across an Soon we were at the trigpoint at upland lawn divided by tiny streams Mojon de las Tres Provincias and known as 'The rock garden'. A (2497m), the boundary marker for leisurely lunch. The two small boys in Leon, Cantabria and Palencia. Time our patty and Bibi, the dog, for drinks and to take in at greater entertaining us with bouldering fun leisure this glorious view ofthe world and games. Towards two o'clock we from 7000 feet plus; the Riano said goodbye, six going up to the lake, reservoir, crazy limestone fault castle, and Bill, Mike (our host and guide) real forests dense enough to shelter not forgetting Bibi, who takes a bears, clouds in the valleys, and the mountain climb as exuberantly as your great wall of Atlantic cloud to the average city pooch would take a north that we saw so often during our scamper around Clapham Common, stay in the Picos. heading for the top ofPena Prieta. The way ahead, the other half of the I've never climbed on such user­ horseshoe leading to Pena Prieta fiiendly rock as the first stretch. Hand­ tumed out to be a long trail across sized pebbles set in rock with pebble black and rust coloured angular stones sized hollows for your feet. Thus we like ballast on a railway track, ugly set off up the north-eastern ridge of and laborious to budge on. "Il faut our mountain. It should have been a souffiir pour voir le bel". Forget the piece of nut-brittle cake, but it was pebbles and look at the valley clouds hot, hot siesta time. Did I eat too and the hills to the hills east glowing much lunch? Is this altitude sickness? I pink and gold as the sun gets kinder. didn't like these reminders that I can't Peace of mind is a good thing when stay twenty-five for ever. So you're climbing, but at some stage on concentrate on getting those heavy the way up your mountaineering arms and legs to take you upwards. apprentice has to summon the courage One tricky exposed neck to negotiate to ask the question ''How do we get and then the gradient eased. down7" ''Two ways really" said Mike. "That was the hardest bit. The rest is Can you scree run7 It would be straightforward" said Mike. So with quicker and more fun. I'll hold your my usual inward reservations about hand." what an experienced mountaineer Well if Mike and Bill thought that I describes to me as "straightforward" I could cope, pride dictated that I contemplated the unbroken upward should smile gamely and be prepared curve of grit and gravel ahead of us. to tackle yet another first in my Ugly and gritty underfoot, but what mountaineering apprenticeship. views were starting to open up. Cordillera Cantabrica stretching into Not much time to linger at the top of infinity in three directions. My very the Pena Prieta. Similar vast views as first view of one of those much read we'd seen en route, except that now about mountain ranges. Tum round we could peer down almost vertically and at our backs stands the craggy to the Rio Frio summer pastures,

The YRC Bulletin 72 Summer 1996 where our walking had started, to the time for a swim in the lake before we Rock Garden where we had picnicked, caught up with him. and to the lake, where we could see Then there were no more stones. the rest of our party, splashing, Perfect green pasture with delicately chasing and bathing. positioned musk mallow, bell flowers I did do the scree run. Teetering like a and purple merendas, Grazing cattle, toddler, this granny lurched through goats and sheep as before. Just one the clattering pebbles holding Mike's thing had changed. While we were up hand, while the dog scampered around on the mountain, the easy mile or two us and descending muscles starting to from the Land Rover to the picnic plead for walk's end. Bill and I spot had surreptitiously quadrupled. finished the gentler gradients of the Honest they did. It's not only Einstein scree so slowly that Mike had had who could tell you about relativity!

Picos Experience (5 August 1995) by Bill Todd

The rain in Spain falls mainly in the hills, We found out yesterday on our descent. The grassy plateau bright with sinuous rills, And varied with the occasional mountain tent Gave onto a steep zigzag down and down To reach the Fuente valley far below. We took it cautiously with careful step, Like Agag placing fine each heel and toe.

When suddenly the heavens opened wide, 'Twas more than just a little summer shower. On narrow path we could not turn aside There wasn't even room for a wild flower.

So exercising all our craft and skill, We doffed our sacks and took out our cagoules And donned them on that steep and stormy hill. The rain then stopped, we felt such awful fools.

The YRCBulletin 73 Summer 1996 Multi-day tours in the Picos a dripping birch wood and then an alpine meadow with at least two tents by David Smithson and no signs of water. I sat and read This was my first summer meet in for a while hoping the mist would Continental Europe with the YRC. clear and when it didn't, I took the Martin Wakeman documents of an straightforward Canal de Asotin. This initial two day traverse of the Eastern led me above the mist and through a Massif but after that I was left to series of alpine meadows with their travel alone. Should I "read" multitude offlowers and butterflies on something into that? My routes were a bright green grass, which contrasted four day traverse ofthe Central Massif to the stark grey rock. The day and four days pottering around Vega finished fairly early with my arrival at de Liordes, an alpine meadow at a Vega de Liordes with an almost height of just under 2000m, where perfect bivouac site. martin Wakeman horses and cattle graze all the time and had given me some instructions on where Spanish chamois, rebeccos, bivouac sites and cooking muesli, have a daytime feed. A very lovely which will perhaps change my life place to be, without too many visitors style. I had made a simple bivvy bag and much cooler than the lower from some cheap waterproof valleys. breathable nylon and first used it with After a hard journey from El Cable to Martin who is a bivvy addict. I didn't Bulnes, i.e. from the south to the use my tent in the mountains at all. north of the mountains of the Central Later, I discovered that the journey Massif I had an exhausting day going from El Cable to Vega de Liordes is through the Cares Gorge and up the not so easy or simple as I expected. road to Cordinane, all in intense This land of sharp rock with sunshine. Bulnes has no road access, innumerable holes, hollows and gullies but two delightful little gorges, an is difficult to traverse, but most routes auberge, a bar and a camp site. The have occasional cairns. The cairns Cares Gorge has the same lack ofreal appear to comfort one when on a atmosphere as Dove Dale on a bank route but are not so obvious and holiday, but on the next day I enjoyed frequent to allow relaxation. I met a great variety. I walked out of Dutch couple who followed cairns and Cordinane with four litres of water found they had transferred routes because I could not guarantee getting without noticing. On my first visit to water in the next 24 hours. I had Liordes I had made an attempt on cooked my evening meal by the public Tone de Salinas with the idea that I fountain and bivouacked just out of might be able to traverse onto Tone town where the path approaches a del Hoyo de Liordes. I was distracted serious looking cliff This is a region by some cairns and struggled up a of serious looking cliffs and many of scree slope which seemed to lead them look more and more impossible nowhere except a chockstone. On my the longer one looks. I settled to sleep second visit, I walked to the top of an hoping the mist would get no wetter adjacent pass, Collado de Remona, and that the route would show itselfin but found no sign of a recognised the morning. The route appeared as a route up Tone de Salinas or up Tone path ingeniously winding up and Pedabejo. I enjoyed a scramble across around the cliff This was followed by the rocky mountain side to the bottom

Tuc YRC Bulletin 74 Summer 1996 ofthe ridge I originally intended to try ofthe notice at the telepherique up to before the cairns redirected me. I now El Cable warning one of the existence felt the cairns might be pointing to this ofbears. ridge, but after some easy climbing I Needless to say there are lots more came to a pitch beyond my courage walking routes ofquality and plenty of and descended to have lunch at my mountains other than the ones I was bivouac. Tone Pedabejo had appeared on, but for much of this I would impossible from the pass, but now I recommend having a companion. I saw a back door up the grass slope totally neglected the lower valleys and near my camp. It worked, and after would suggest cooler weather would getting to the top ofTone Pedabejo, I make them more pleasant and the use managed to traverse back onto the of a car make them more accessible. next peak in the direction of Pena The sharp rock made the fingers sore Remona before the mountains became but provided an unbelievable friction too difficult. There is obviously a lot grip for the feet of anyone who does of fun to be had playing on these not usually climb in Skye or similar mountains and the guide book shows places in Norway. that there are recognised routes up for those who demand success. After this On my penultimate day a flotilla of I made a visit to the hut on Collado cigar shaped alpine storm clouds Jermoso which is magnificently appeared and I took the precaution of situated. There, a lady told me that the sleeping in a hut. There was no storm cows on Vega de Liordes have a where I was, but the evening mists reputation for eating tents, clothes and were worse than usual, and for my provisions and she considered I'd been final there were clouds on the high very lucky having no problem There mountains and a cold wind that made is a cabin where people can leave gear me think about getting gloves out. As safe from the cows. She also told me I started to descend the interminable

The YRC Bulletin 75 Summer 1996 zigzags to Fuente De, a rebecco stood Three days into two on a promontory watching me leave, a by John Devenport vulture soared high above the spires of rock, around me were flowers and The best laid plans often need butterflies, and beside me a line of revising, particularly in mountainous impassable cliffs. areas such as the Picos de Europa, as Michael Smith and myself found out. Neither ofus had ever been to such a mountain landscape as the incredible limestone deserts ofthe upper parts of the Picos, with their peculiar features and absence of water, and it was evident that navigation in anything Tour 1 other than perfect visibility could be a El Cable - Horcados Rojos ­ major problem The object of our Vega Urriello - meadow above planned three day hip was to see some Bulnes of the sights of the Picos, namely the Bulnes - Cares Gorge - Cain ­ Cares Gorge and the main symbol of hillside above Cordinanes the mountains of this part of Spain, the Naranjo de Bulnes. Asotin - Vega de Liordes Helen transported us to the start ofthe Vega de Liordes - attempt Tone Cares Gorge at Cain, an incredible car de Salinas - Fuente De journey in itself, with the road at one stage seemingly petering out in a farmyard, but it eventually led into the start of the gorge. After a welcome cup for coffee at a small cafe, the two of us set off in overcast weather into the deep, deep gorge forming an amazing natural barrier around the western / north-western edge of the Central Massif The path is an amazing feat of engineering, cut into the sheer sides ofthe precipitous rock walls, following the line of an Tour 2 aqueduct dating back to the 1940's. El Cable -Colladina de las Two bridges across the gorge provide Nieves - Vega de Liordes spectacular viewpoints to the river Vega de Liordes - attempt Tone many, many feet below. The 11m ofthe gorge and peaks rising into the clouds, de Salinas - Tone Pedabejo ­ Liordes were many, many feet above. It is evidently a very popular route, as it is Liordes - Sedo de la Padiema ­ very easy walking along the mainly Pico de la Padierna - Collado level path, and about half way along, Jermosa - attempt Torre del after lunch and an excellent view of an Llambrion - Refuge Diego Mella eyrie, with an eagle feeding its young, Refuge Diego Mella - Sedo de la we opted for a steep descent down a Padierna - Fuente De scree path into what we though was the bottom of the gorge, to get away

TIle YRC Bulletin 76 Summer 1996 from the crowds. Even when we Fuente De the following day, so opted reached the low point, we were still a to return via a lower, but much more considerable distance above the river. circuitous route via Invernales del Texu, near Sotres and the Valle del Interest in the gorge decreased as it Duje, in the cloud for virtually all of opened out somewhat as we approached Poncebos, but our the way, with only tantalising glimpses destination for the day was Bulnes, so ofthe peaks and precipices above. The first part of the route followed a very we turned up a side gorge, the Canal narrow path through dripping del Tejo that lead us steeply up to the vegetation, rather like walking in a village. By the time we reached the ancient hamlet, the clouds were light sauna. I wasn't sure how effective the waterproofs were in such high down and it was starting to drizzle. Accommodation was found in a humidity; the few Spaniards that we dortoir attached to one of the three saw used capes rather than cagoules. We'd heard all S01tS oftales about the inns (not bad for an almost deserted inaccuracy of the Spanish maps, village only reachable on foot!). particularly where paths and buildings Although it was now quite wet, it was were concerned, but we had no still warm, so we sat outside the bar, problems, managing to follow the eating the standard platter provided by vague path and locate every building the inn to everybody requiring food, namely ham, egg and chips. We really along the initial part ofthe route in the pushed the boat out, (well, we were thick, swirling mist. on holiday) and also had cheese, wine From near Sotres we turned south (lots), coffees (several), and then along the jeep track, which proved to breakfast the following morning, but be a most interesting walk, passing despite this excess, got change out of through the deserted hamlet at Vegas £30 for the two of us , including the del Toro, then across a large flat accommodation. If only Swiss meadow at Campomayor, where we mountain huts were as cheap as this!1 had excellent views of a pail' of Whilst sat in the bar, we exchanged Egyptian vultures, many other birds of tales with fellow travellers from prey, large numbers of horses, a several other parts of Europe, and running track denoted by a line by were also joined by the local mules numbered stones, and most amazingly which came to see what was going on. of all, two pail's of goalposts, high in the mountains and literally in the After a comfortable night, we woke to middle ofnowhere ! find that the cloud was even lower, the drizzle harder and there was A quick descent down the jeep track absolutely no wind. So no chance of a brought us into Espinama, just in time quick improvement to the weather. to buy some much needed drinks and After spinning out breakfast as long as ice creams, before the last bus arrived possible, we decided not to try and to transport us, a day early, to the find our way to the Urriellu Hut, camp near Potes, much to the surprise under the Naranjo de Bulnes, because of those in camp basking in glorious of potentially very serious navigation sunshine. Of course, the next day was problems through inhospitable terrain another glorious hot, clear day, such is in minimum visibility. Even if we did the way in the mountains! reach the hut, there was no guarantee that we would be able to get back to

The YRC Bulletin 77 Summer 1996 A fleeting visit to Naranjo de my back on the Naranjo, with only Bulnes by John Devenport one or two wispy clouds high in the otherwise clear sky. Then in an instant After the disappointment ofnot seeing all my worst fears about navigation the Naranjo de Bulnes at close problems were realised. From qua~ters on my multi-day trip, I nowhere, I was suddenly engulfed in decided to try to make a quick visit thick cloud just above the hut, and from El Cable to the Urriellu Hut . ' thought I was going to have real nestling in a privileged position problems getting back in the mist. beneath one ofit's great walls. Setting Fortunately the mist cleared as quickly out in clear and slightly cooler as it arrived, and the return to El weather, I was accompanied almost as Cable passed without further incident, far as the Veronica Hut by Michael but with added interest of a long and David, but they had other scramble up to the :final col at the side objectives for the day, so from then on ofthe fraying cables. it was a solo trip. The trip was a fitting end to my visit From the Horcados Rojos col, it was a to the Picos, an area of quite unique traverse eastwards then a steep mountain landscape, but it also served descent down the broken, slabby as a sharp reminder of the potential slopes following the line of fixed difficulties the unwary traveller could cables, complete with highly frayed :find themselves in such inhospitable WIre strands, which proved to be more terrain. of a hindrance than a help. The long descent took me into the first of two huge hoyos (hollows), linked by a vague, intermittent path, which confirmed my concern about potential navigation problems in such awkward terrain should the visibility be less than perfect, and probably justified our c~ange of plans during our multi-day tnp. A group of about six rebeco caught my attention crossing the barren slopes ofa hoyo; it certainly must be a hard life eking out an existence in such inhospitable terrain. After the second hoyo, a col is gained by a steep step, from where the massive face of the Naranjo de Bulnes suddenly comes into view. The short walk down to the ?niellu .hut took ages, with many mterruptions for photographs of this imposing mountain. The large modem, hut was thronged with visitors admiring the spectacular setting. Time was getting on, and it was quite a way back to El Cable, so I turned The Cares gorge

'The YRC Bulletin 78 Summer 1996 Archaeology in the Picos like a cow. The largest horse varies in colour from sienna to purple and black by Michael Smith others are simple outline drawings. In The objects of the Club include some engraved lines emphasise the Archaeology and this was not colour. neglected despite the majority of this report concentrating on the It was interesting to compare these mountaineering and natural history painting with the rock outcrop aspects of our visit to the Picos de engravings seen at Alta in Norway on Europa. the 1992 meet. Those were dated at about 6000 years old and were carvings, some of which were painted in an red ochre colour. q:::

1." ~ ~ r- bb'" g A visit was made to the caves at ." c, Ribadesella on the coast. In the Cueva de Tito Bustillo the control of public ~ access to four hundred visitors a day The Tito Bustillo cave paintings were protects the prehistoric cave painting. created over a period between 15 and This was far higher number than most 20 thousand years ago, other controlled caves: Altamira allowed only 30 and visits had to be The main cavern contains plenty of booked years in advance. Several decorative rock features throughout doors along the caves blasted modem its length. Colours range from the entrance tunnel maintained a steady pristine whites through ivory to greens temperature of BOC and humidity of and reds. The calcite features are 98%. A path of 540m through the varied and impressive as the cavern is original cavern leads to a junction and wide and tall. The streamway is now a prehistoric living area. Here, low on some twenty metres below and visible an overhanging wall, is painting of a in places. horse which despite damage by flooding remains clearly visible. The A short drive solid shape is a dark red and, for me at away, high on a least, surprisingly large at perhaps two hill side are a metres long. couple of ...::'>', .':..... prehistoric rock carvings. The '·;~:,:}t·· information we ~ ..... obtained about them was sketchy. They are about a metre tall, cut into a slight overhang A little further on is an area containing above a small ledge on a ten metre tall several paintings. Stag, hind, several grey limestone outcrop (Pefia Tu) on a horse, reindeer and possibly something ridge. Now protected by an iron cage

The YRC Bulletin 79 Summer 1996 they previously suffered the addition Memories of the Picos by AB of many adjacent modem carvings, Friendly people at the camp site who mostly crosses. The carvings are went out oftheir way to be helpful. Bronze age or Neolithic and may be A young dog, apparently dying of funerary or sacrificial. thirst, being refreshed in best John (l . r,· -, I 1/ \) , Wayne style, from a bush hat full of 11 ,"1 i 11-" 11 .: water. .i; I~ : , ,:.\ ., A middle aged couple who were so J.(1 ,. .: / impressed by the navigational skills of ,i; '\;} / : 1 ," YRC members that they insisted on \/1 buying the drinks at the cable car station. Much further to the West, inland from An ex-president who insisted that Navia on the crest of a ridge was the pear peelings and core soaked in Castro de Coafia, probably the best sardine oil was part ofthe normal diet. preserved of the prehistoric Asturian The entrepreneurial skills of a young 'towns'. Occupied in the late Iron guest on the meet who could l'Ull a Age and early Roman period it is a second hand car business during the well fortified habitation with very solid course ofa restaurant meal. stone walls, circular, oval and Two members who provided a large rectangular buildings and large stone number oflocals with a new spectator troughs. Served by a long aqueduct sport: - leg breakage repair watching. the village was supported by mining, A local member of the Guardia transport and working ofgold. Uncivil who seemed to think that three score years and ten equates to old age. Under Roman occupation the Members wives who provided hot Asturians provided troops for many soup to a group who arrived back at parts ofthe empire including Hadrians the camp a little late, following a slight Wall. They must surely have noticed a geographical error. (Incidentally, this marked change in the climate there was the same group who so impressed compared to their homeland. the middle aged couple noted above!) Two young members who reached TIle proximity of the Picos to the the campsite on bicycles. What can we rugged coast, towns and unspoilt do to win this battle of one upmanship villages of Cantabria and Asturias on our next meet? means that there can be much more to The worried looks of passengers on a visit there than walking, climbing the ferry who overheard two naval and caving. The Celts settling in the architectural members discussing the North, the Romans taking two gross instability ofthe ship. hundred years to dominate the area Female persons on the meet who (t~~ugh leaving the Picos well alone), appeared quite normal and,, in fact Visigoths taking over Galacia, were excellent company. (1 realise Christianity with its monasteries and that this statement may cost me my then Industrial Revolution have all epaulettes and sword.) influenced the area. Four gourmet members who couldn't tell the difference between ham and tinned tripe.

'lbe YRC Bulletin 80 Summer 1996