Flavours of Zagorje ↑ PTUJ ↑ ROGAŠKA SLATINA → VARAŽDIN

Desinić

1 Hraščina 5 ZLATAR 14 4 6 Sveti Križ Začretje

Kumrovec 2 3 Tuheljske Toplice 7

11 Marija 12 8 Bistrica 10 Gornja 13 Stubica ↓ 9 DONJA STUBICA ↓ Flavours of Zagorje ZAGREB

Bratislava - 359 km Vienna - 315 km - a fairy tale at the table Budapest - 321 km Munich - 510 km The wealth and diversity of natural and cultural values interwoven with modern life in Ljubljana - 158 km this small region filled with greenery, tiny villages, towns, vineyards, and wine cellars KRAPINA scattered across the rolling hills that lazily lean against each other make Zagorje a true fairy tale at arm’s reach.

ZAGREB Osijek In this sociable, hospitable place, the magical flavours of tradition have also been Rijeka preserved. Like long ago, when their heady scents would spread through the village courtyards or from the kitchens of the many manors and castles of the nobles of Zagorje. Belgrade - 452 km Pula Slavonski Brod Enjoying Zagorje’s traditional cuisine means getting to know the richness and diversity

Sarajevo - 458 km of simple daily meals of the local villagers, which arose from harmony between man and nature, as well as more complex dishes and specialties that came about in the kitchens Adriatic Sea / Jadransko more of the nobility. There are so many of these delicious, satisfying dishes that it is difficult to say which are the best, however, Zagorje-style soup with porcini mushrooms, real, Zadar homemade štrukli with cottage cheese, baked turkey with wheat noodles, and Stubica pork roast certainly stand out.

Split The rich experience of the flavours of tradition in the form of world-class dining experiences are brought to your table with love in select restaurants that bear the mark of the Flavours of Croatian Tradition – Flavours of Zagorje standard. They will lead you to a fairy tale at the table.

Dubrovnik Taste and enjoy! Map of and county are for illustrative purpose only. 2 3 1 2 Grešna Gorica Cellars Villa Zelenjak Ventek

This family farm offers the rustic experience The beauty of Zelenjak valley inspired poet of a true Zagorje village atmosphere and a Antun Mihanović to write the text of the Croatian beautiful view of spectacular Veliki Tabor castle, national anthem, and when a monument to the a cultural monument of national significance. anthem was raised there in 1935, the Greblički The atmosphere is completed with a centuries- family opened a small restaurant nearby. Through old oak forest, vineyards, fields, a landscaped the decades, the restaurant grew into an inn, and playground, and a small zoo with deer, sheep, its tradition of preparing local dishes has made it peacocks, rabbits, donkeys, ducks, and turkeys. into one of the best-known restaurants in Croatia. The selection of food is based on local traditional With its landscaped promenade, playground, and specialties and wines made in-house. park by the river , this is one of the most popular excursion centres in Zagorje. 95 180 Taborgradska ulica 35, Desinić 265 170 +385(0) 49 343 001 Risvica 1, [email protected] +385(0) 49 550 747 www.gresna-gorica.com [email protected] Summer season 09-22, www.zelenjak.com Winter season 10-20 Mon-Sun 08-22 Turkey with mlinci wheat noodles, Pork cutlet with porcini mushrooms, Venison stew with hunter's dumplings, Nettle soup, 4 Cottage cheese and apple strudel Buhtla pastry filled with plum jam 5 3 4 Mihanović Castle Magdalena Restaurant

Once frequented by poet and author of the The Villa Magdalena Hotel**** restaurant is Croatian national anthem Lijepa naša Antun the first fine dining establishment in Zagorje. Mihanović, this baroque castle and cultural It presents a fusion of creatively prepared monument is located next to a hundred-year- traditional local dishes and ingredients with old plane tree in a beautiful park. Today, its halls modern presentation. The courses are an are host to a restaurant that offers traditional experience for all senses which you can enjoy regional dishes every day, paired with top wines by alongside the relaxing, panoramic view from the Zagorje’s winemakers. The restaurant also offers poolside terrace. In accordance with the seasonal guided tastings of local wines, themed Mediaeval ingredients available, new ideas and courses are castle dinners, and other events. often added to the restaurant’s menu, which is accompanied by a prodigious wine list. 260 90 Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuheljske Toplice 60 40 +385(0) 049 203 772 Mirna ulica 1, Krapinske Toplice info@terme-.hr +385(0) 49 233 333 www.terme-tuhelj.hr [email protected] Mon closed, Tue-Fri 12-22, www.villa-magdalena.net Sat 11-24, Sun 11-22 Mon-Sun 10-22 Pork tenderloin in bacon and thyme, Veal, Duck breast in wine and honey sauce, beef, pork, chicken fillet, and vegetables Pumpkin soup with bacon, 6 grilled on a sword, Mihanović gibanica pastry Taste of Zagorje torte 7 5 6 Vuglec Breg Restaurant Sermage Restaurant

Winery, inn, and restaurant Vuglec Breg, Sermage family restaurant is a continuation once a typical village, was renovated as a of one of the first restaurants in the region tourist village using with traditional Zagorje- – Krčma Veselom Zagorcu. In the meantime, style houses, a restaurant, vineyards, and a the decoration and selection of food has been wine cellar. The restaurant features an open adjusted to suit the times, and tradition affirms hearth and a terrace under a straw roof, that this restaurant has been a success for and is the perfect place to enjoy Zagorje’s more than half a century with good reason. specialties prepared traditionally and paired Sermage offers something for everyone – from with the best wines and sparkling wines from an everyday selection of ready-made meals to the farm’s own cellar. the dozen or so house specialties and selection of various štrukli.

80 110 125 16 Škarićevo 151, Lepajci Ul. Ivana Krizmanića 15, Sv. Križ Začretje +385 (0)49 345 015 +385(0) 49 227 362 [email protected] [email protected] www.vuglec-breg.hr www.sermage.hr 07-22 Mon-Sun 07-23 Brick-oven-roasted turkey with mlinci Turkey with spinach wheat noodles, wheat noodles, Marinated smoked pork Pork liver with polenta, 8 roast, Boiled štrukli with fried breadcrumbs The Count's Crêpes 9 7 8 Zaboky Restaurant Terme Jezerčica Restaurant

This cosy, rustic restaurant is one of the most This restaurant is in Gupčev kraj, in the hotel popular in the Zabok area, featuring a terrace and of the same name located atop a natural, wine shop offering tastings of the house-made healing thermal spring. With outdoor and indoor wines. It bears the name of the old Zaboky noble swimming pools with thermal spring water family which left a deep mark on the history of (36°C), a wellness centre, a promenade through the town, and the restaurant’s wide selection the nearby Croatian Iris Garden, it is a favourite of traditional meals certainly justifies the name. destination for short holidays and relaxation. In addition to the restaurant, you can find the The restaurant offers a selection of dishes romantic Zaboky Selo excursion centre just a few based on traditional, healthy food, local cuisine, kilometres away. and traditional dishes reinterpreted through the lens of modern international cuisine. 180 20 Baltazara Zabokya 1, Zabok 200 50 +385 (0)49 223 113 Toplička 80, [email protected] +385(0) 49 200 600 www.zaboky.hr [email protected] Mon-Thu 08-22, www.terme-jezercica.hr Fri-Sat 08-02, Sun closed Mon-Sun 07-22 Porcini mushroom and dried meat soup, Bacon-wrapped turkey roulade stuffed Turkey steak stuffed with bacon, zucchini, with polenta, Pork tenderloin with 10 and tomato, Walnut roll greaves, Village-style crêpes 11 9 10 Majsecov Mlin Pansion Rody

Majsecov Mlin is located on the northern Located on Samci hill, which offers one of the most slopes of Nature Park, in the beautiful views in Zagorje of Gornja and Donja Stubica, same environment in which the villagers of the surrounding villages, Medvednica mountain and Zagorje once lived. Two traditional houses and its highest peak, Sljeme. Oršić castle and its Peasant the burble of the creek that turns a mill water Rebellion Museum are nearby, where you can find wheel as it grinds local varieties of corn into a massive monument to the rebellion, as well as its flour make a visit to this place a truly poetic only living witness – the 450-year-old Gubec linden experience. This experience is enriched by the tree. In addition to the selection of local dishes, the long list of traditional dishes with a modern flair restaurant is well known as the many-time winner served here. of the Štruklijada štrukli cook-off, and so we highly recommend you try this local specialty right here.

100 90 150 40 Obrtnička 47, Donja Stubica Samci 13, +385(0) 49 288 092 +385 (0)49 289 828 [email protected] [email protected] www.majsecov-mlin.com www.rody.hr Mon-Sun 09-23 Mon-Fri 08-24, Breaded pork with horseradish, Sat-Sun 08-02 Corn flour breaded turkey with barley, Turkey with mlinci wheat noodles, 12 Zagorje-style štrukli soup Pork fillet stuffed with prunes, 13 Zagorje-style pumpkin strudel 11 12 Lojzekova Hiža Cellars Zagorski Dvori Cellars

This family farm is located in an idyllic green At the foothills of a spacious, vineyard- valley, where the owners grow both grapes covered hill tucked into the Bistrica valley, and fruit. This farm has become a favourite near the Our Lady of Bistrica pilgrimage destination for cycling and hiking, and even centre, you will find this excursion centre offers guests to experience working in the and winery run by the Micak family. Grown fields. This and the selection of homemade and raised by tradition and built up through specialties made with produce grown on the care, hard work, and hospitality of three the farm, brandies, and wines has made the generations, this is a place to socialise, relax, cosy farm restaurant quite popular. and enjoy local specialties paired with around a dozen house-made wines.

120 30 220 60 Gusakovec 116, Gornja Stubica Hum Bistrički 69 a, +385 (0)49 469 325 +385(0) 98 829 378 [email protected] [email protected] www.lojzekova-hiza.com www.vinarija-micak.hr Mon-Sun 10-22 By appointment Duck with mlinci wheat noodles and Marinated roast with polenta, hand-torn beet noodles, Mushrooms with Duck with buckwheat porridge, 14 corn flour, Baked nettle štrukli Corn cake with walnuts 15 13 14 Academia Restaurant Bolfan Cellars – Vinski vrh

Academia Restaurant is the feather in the cap of This organic estate is a true oasis of greenery the Bluesun Kaj Hotel**** gourmet selection. It and pristine nature, a location that offers a offers culinary specialties based on an innovative beautiful view of the vineyards and rolling hills interpretation of the traditional regional cuisine. of Zagorje. Traditional dishes are prepared here The restaurant also has its own garden, in which in a creative, modern fashion using produce various vegetables and herbs are grown for use in from the estate’s own orchard and garden, the kitchen, and it also features an extensive wine organic spelt, rye, and corn fields, and cow list. The restaurant’s atmosphere is exceptionally farm, as well as other products produced by comfortable and quiet, and it is an excellent local farms. Every meal is paired with wines choice for business lunches, romantic dinners, produced in-house, resulting in an irresistible and quiet get-togethers. symphony of scents and flavours.

50 50 60 70 Zagrebačka BB, Marija Bistrica Gornjaki 56, Hraščina +385(0) 49 326 600 +385(0) 49 458 287 [email protected] [email protected] www.hotelkaj.hr www.bolfanvinskivrh.hr Mon-Sun 12-15 and 18-24 Wed-Sat 12-20, Sun 12-18, Žličnjaci dumplings with duck liver, Mon-Tue on appointment Boiled chicken with horseradish, Gnocchi with capon, 16 Dumplings with local plums Young duck with hand-torn noodles, 17 Zagorje-style cheese štrukli Turkey with wheat noodles

Zagorje-style soup The wealth of the forests, fields, The main ingredients are homemade gardens, and vineyards scattered dried bacon and dried meat, onion, The Zagorje turkey is on the list of Croatia’s original and protected animal breeds, and it has about the rolling hills of Zagorje carrot, potato, cream, wine, and been entered into the world register of farm animal breeds kept by the Food and Agriculture combined with the creativity of delicious porcini and chanterelle Organisation of the United Nations (FAO). the region’s hardworking village mushrooms. There are many ways to housewives resulted in numerous prepare this excellent soup, and so With a tradition of more than five centuries, this turkey is raised outdoors, where it can move freely about the green clearings, fields, orchards, and woods of Zagorje. Today, a maximum everyday meals marked with some of the ingredients may vary from of 400 turkeys can be raised on one hectare of land (at least 25m2 per turkey). The meat of artfulness, creativity, and simplicity. chef to chef – except, of course, for the Zagorje’s turkeys enjoys exceptional prestige, as witnessed by historical records of its export mushrooms. The creative differences in to numerous European noble households, including even that of the king of England. These dishes used ingredients typical the way this dish is prepared enriches of the region, were prepared simply it additionally with a wealth of new The exceptional quality and juiciness of the meat (which arises from the free-range farming and quickly, and came together in the flavours and dining experiences. system) comes from the higher percentage of fats in the turkey’s soft muscles, and this pot as delicious meals that the entire makes enjoying the irresistible flavours and scents of this exceptional, nutritious product a true household could enjoy. One such gourmet experience. traditional meal is the famous Zagorje- style soup made with home-grown The main side dish for baked turkey, regardless of whether it is stuffed with chestnuts, apples, ingredients from the village garden, and bacon, or not stuffed at all, are traditional mlinci wheat noodles. No more, no less – they simply it can be found today in nearly every make a perfect pair. restaurant in the region. 18 19 Stubica ~ Štrukli~

Traditional, homemade štrukli are one of Zagorje’s best-known specialties, and The Stubica pork roast is an one of the most popular dishes in Croatia. The art of making this specialty has authentic, elegant Croatian pork roast been added to the list of Croatia’s intangible cultural heritage. Created through specialty from Zagorje. It hails the inventiveness of Zagorje’s housewives of old and prepared using ingredients from the time of the region’s found in almost all old households, štrukli delight with both their simplicity and noble houses, when the the skill required to make them. court chefs of the numerous castles in Zagorje competed Štrukli consist of a pulled dough filled with cottage cheese mixed with sour cream in making world-class culinary and egg, which is then rolled and cut with the edge of a plate or the handle of a creations, which their lords and wooden spoon and baked. This simple dish is sure to put a smile on the face of even their guests enjoyed at the the most demanding gourmet. Whether brought to table boiled, baked, or boiled and magnificent feasts that were a then baked, in soup, sweet or savoury, as an appetizer, a dessert, or a simple small component part of the social life meal, they never cease to satisfy – even when they appear in their most basic form of the time. According to records with the addition of pumpkin, turnip, or poppy seed. from the 16th century, locally available ingredients were used in one of these noble kitchens to create this mean, which quickly became an unmissable component at the feast tables of Zagorje’s aristocracy.

Since then, the Stubica pork roast has been prepared in the same way. Made from the finest pork fillet or tenderloin, it is filled with prunes and prepared in a sauce made with prunes, wine, fresh sweet cream, and a dash of local šljivovica plum brandy, giving the dish a special, refined, luxurious flavour.

20 21 Zagorje ~ the kingdom of wine A nearly 12-million-year-old fossilised have always known how to enjoy the Vitis teutonica grape leaf found near the fruits of their labour and held wine as village of best bears witness to one of the most noble beverages. the tradition and history of viticulture in Zagorje. There are five separate White varieties such as Riesling, winemaking regions in Zagorje – Zlatar, Graševina, Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, Zabok, Klanjec, Stubica, and Pregrada Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer same name near the village of Klanjec. – and they stretch across hilly terrain dominate in the vineyards of Zagorje Only 20 or so vines of Sokol survived in nearly always steep positions, which today, while the most common red the past century in a Franciscan have required hard work and care varieties are Blauer Portuguiser, Pinot monastery, and they make a powerful throughout history. Every hill in Zagorje Noir, Blaufränkisch, and Cabernet wine with an aroma reminiscent of has its own winemaking story, which Sauvignon. But we must not forget old Alsatian Gewürztraminer and Muscat. is no wonder, as the citizens of Zagorje local varieties such as Stara Krapinska Belina, one of the oldest varieties of Numerous winemakers and cellarers grape in the world, which results in a in Zagorje today produce high-quality light, crisp wine with marked acidity wines ranging from sparkling wines, and discreet, flowery and fruity still whites and reds to select harvest aromas. Other local varieties include wines and ice wines. The unique fruity Starohrvatska Črnina, also known as or flowery aromas of these wines pair Kavčina, a local variety grown between perfectly with the traditional cuisine Zagorje and , and Sokol, an old of Zagorje and northwestern Croatia. variety named after the locality of the Don’t miss out on trying them. Cheers!

22 23 September Gastro KUMROVEC ETHNO-ECO FESTIVAL – manifestacije KUMROVEC A presentation of traditions and life in the Kumrovec area in the early 20th century, April including the Wedding in Zagorje cultural event, BABIČINI KOLAČI sale of locally grown produce, selection of traditional dishes A contest in preparing sweets and cakes according to old recipes, tastings | www.tz-kumrovec-desinic-zagorskasela.hr | www.kumrovec.hr, www.mss.mhz.hr | www.babicinikolaci.com.hr GLJIVARIJADA MEDENKA - ZLATAR Mushroom picking with a guide, mushroom dishes prepared over an open fire, tastings May | www.zlatar.hr WINES OF ZAGORJE FAIR AND EXHIBITION - BEDEKOVČINA GRAPE PICKING - PREGRADA An entertaining exhibition with wine A presentation of old-fashioned grape picking ratings and sales, gourmet food, and a and pressing traditions, selection of wines and selection of traditional dishes traditional dishes | www.kzz.hr; www.bedekovcina.hr | www.branjegrojzdja.pregrada.hr | www.srcezagorja.hr | www.srcezagorja.hr July October ŠTRUKLIJADA “CHTEF“ ZAGORSKI CHEF Restaurateurs compete in preparing A competition between chefs from Zagorje in štrukli, exhibition and tasting preparing dishes using locally grown traditional | www.struklijada.com.hr ingredients, tastings of dishes and traditional products BADL FEST - KRAPINSKE TOPLICE | www.kzz.hr Multi-day cultural event with gourmet food and wine ZAHVALA JESENI - KLANJEC | www.srcezagorja.hr A cultural and entertainment event presenting | www.krapinske-toplice.hr the traditional heritage of the region, stagings of Mediaeval traditions, selection of traditional dishes BUČNICA FEST - KUMROVEC, | www.klanjec.hr DESINIĆ I ZAGORSKA SELA APPLE DAYS – DESINIĆ Pumpkin strudel bake-off, pumpkin strudel Exhibition of old varieties of apple, selection tasting, pumpkin products of traditional products, tastings, best apple | www.tz-kumrovec-desinic-zagorskasela.hr dessert contest, entertainment programme | www.desinic.hr; www.veliki-tabor.hr 24 | www.tz-kumrovec-desinic-zagorskasela.hr 25 MUSHROOM PICKING IN STUBICA – PILA PARKING LOT, SLJEMENSKA ROAD Mushroom picking, entertainment programme, selection of mushroom and game dishes prepared on an open fire Info | www.tz-stubicke-toplice.hr KRAPINA-ZAGORJE COUNTY TOURIST BOARD Magistratska 3, 49000 Krapina tel. + 385 49 233 653, November www.visitzagorje.hr, [email protected] MARTINJE – KUMROVEC TZ KRAPINA | Magistratska 28, Krapina Staging of folk wine blessing traditions, tel. +385 49 371 330, www.tzg-krapina.hr, [email protected] tastings, selection of traditional dishes, music and entertainment programme TZ ZLATAR | Zagrebačka 3, Zlatar | www.tz-kumrovec-desinic-zagorskasela.hr tel. +385 49 466 240, www.tzgzlatar.hr, [email protected]

COUNTY MARTINJE CELEBRATION TZ OROSLAVJE | Milana Prpića 73, Oroslavje – BOJAČNO, ZAGORSKA SELA Tel. +385 49 284 370, www.tzoroslavje.hr, [email protected] MUNICIPALITY TZ MARIJA BISTRICA | Zagrebačka bb, Marija Bistrica Church gathering near the Church of St Tel. +385 49 468 380, www.tzo-marija-bistrica.hr, [email protected] Martin, folk wine blessing tradition, young wine tasting in cellars, selection of traditional TZ STUBIČKE TOPLICE | Viktora Šipeka 24, Stubičke Toplice dishes, entertainment and music programme Tel. +385 49 282 727, www.tz-stubicke-toplice.hr, [email protected] | www.kzz.hr | www.tz-kumrovec-desinic-zagorskasela.hr TZP GORNJA I DONJA STUBICA | Toplička 80, Donja Stubica Tel. +385 49 288 081, www.gupcev-kraj.hr, [email protected] KRAPINA-ZAGORJE COUNTY TZP KUMROVEC, DESINIĆ, ZAGORSKA SELA | Josipa Broza 12, Kumrovec HONEY EXHIBITION Tel. +385 99 555 3553, www.tz-kumrovec-desinic-zagorskasela.hr, [email protected] Honey rating and exhibition, tasting and sales of honey and honey products TZP „SRCE ZAGORJA“ | Zagrebačka 2, Krapinske Toplice | www.kzz.hr Tel. +385 49 232 106, [email protected], www.srcezagorja.hr

TZP TUHELJ, KLANJEC, VELIKO TRGOVIŠĆE | Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuheljske Toplice December Tel. +385 49 556 630, www.visit-tuhelj-klanjec-trgovisce.hr, [email protected] ADVENT IN MARIJA BISTRICA CENTAR ZA POSJETITELJE ZAGORJE | Vrankovec 1, Sveti Križ Začretje Tel. +385 49 556 021, [email protected], www.visitzagorje.hr Fair and old crafts workshop with sales of goods, presentation of artistic CENTAR ZA POSJETITELJE MARIJA BISTRICA | Gornjoselska ulica bb, Marija Bistrica traditions, selection of traditional food Tel +385 49 468 380, www.tzo-marija-bistrica.hr, [email protected] and drink, seasonal entertainment programme Publisher: Krapina-Zagorje County Tourist Board | www.tz-marija-bistrica.hr Production: DMK Vall 042 d.o.o. Varaždin Photography: Krapina Zagorje County Tourist Board archives, Krapina-Zagorje County 26 archives, Way to Croatia Magazine archives 27 Print: AKD d.o.o. Zagreb, December 2017 Edition: 2000