VF EARNINGS RISE 10%/3 DONATELLA DOES BEIJING/15 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 23, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Surface Appeal

PARIS — Alber Elbaz went futuristic in his spring collection for Lanvin, making the point with glowing fabrics and industrial details. Here, his shiny, snappy bubble dress with an abbreviated jacket.

For Rent on Fifth Ave.: Plaza Hotel Developers Woo Luxury Retailers By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — The mythical sprite Eloise would be rawther curious about the makeover going on at the Plaza Hotel — which could mean that Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New York end up with a competitor in their midst. Elad Properties, which purchased the Plaza in 2004 for $675 million, is painstakingly restoring the sections of the hotel with landmark designation to their former 1907 glory. A key element of the $350 million mixed- use renovation, which includes luxury residences, hotel rooms and hotel condominiums, is the retail component. See Plaza, Page 10 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 WWD.COM As Dow Jones Hits New Heights WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Retail Shares Enjoying the Ride GENERAL New York’s venerable Plaza Hotel has outlined a plan for 160,000 square 1 feet of retail space on six levels with a wide variety of merchants. By WWD Staff over the 12,000 mark. The S&P phenomenon we don’t expect to Retail Index is up about 15 per- reoccur this year.” As the Dow Jones Industrial Average clocks record highs, investors are s the Dow Jones Industrial cent while the WWD Composite Piper Jaffray retail analysts 2 searching for cyclical stocks, like retail, hoping to reap hefty returns. A Average clocks record highs, Stock Index is up about 5 per- Jeffrey Klinefelter and Neely investors are searching for cycli- cent in the same period. Some Tamminga estimate that the pre- Revenue growth across all divisions pushed VF Corp. to its 12th straight cal stocks, like retail, with the analysts said the surge in retail dicted decline in energy prices 3 quarter of earnings gains, as profi ts rose 10 percent, to $197.7 million. hope of reaping hefty returns. stock prices was born out of the equates to “$4 billion in discre- Uniqlo has tapped Lutz & Patmos, Kino, Alice Roi, Phillip Lim and GVGV The investment idea is that realization that several compa- tionary spending power when 3 to design lines in conjunction with its upcoming SoHo store opening. declining gas prices, relatively nies in the sector were severely compared to last year’s home tame inflation and improved undervalued. But how much mo- heating expenditures, which EYE: The social calendar was full Thursday, topped off at Bergdorf’s, where consumer confi dence will send mentum is left? were up $18 billion from the 4 Moschino’s Rosella Jardini and the brand’s in-store shop were feted. shoppers scurrying to stores, de- Matthew Fassler, Goldman prior year.” FASHION: During last week’s Los Angeles Fashion Week, designers spite an overall softening of the Sachs analyst, said in a report Bear Stearns retail analyst 6 channeled everything from the starry heavens to Mexican folklore. economy. But the success of this last week that in a broader con- Christine Augustine is predicting investment strategy depends on text, there’s a “source of oppor- a 5 to 6 percent retail sales growth Obituary...... 11 consumers coming through at tunity” in the retail sector. “As for holiday 2006, compared with Classifi ed Advertisements...... 17-19 the cash register in the fourth energy prices have receded, the the 5.2 percent average decline in quarter, said several analysts. outlook for consumer spend- the past three years. Her forecast To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. To bolster the earnings of re- ing has improved, and investor is boosted by a pullback in energy [email protected], using the individual’s name. tail and consumer products fi rms, sentiment has shifted quickly prices and wage growth. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. consumers will need to spend big and aggressively in favor of re- On the weather front, the holi- VOLUME 192, NO. 85. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- and at fuller price points. Last tail and consumer discretionary day outlook is mostly sunny, ac- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, month, same-store sales were ro- stocks,” Fassler said, adding that cording to a preview call hosted Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers bust as a result of lower gas pric- the Goldman Sachs Retail Index by Planalytics last week. The Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and es, analysts said. However, it is un- C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior clear how this month, next month Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance and December will play out. The Investor sentiment has shifted quickly Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. weather outlook is mixed, and “ 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable could hurt apparel sales while and aggressively in favor of retail and Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, overall holiday forecasts vary consumer discretionary stocks. ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR from a gain of 3 to 7 percent. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four Moreover, growth in the retail ” weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other sector is limited, and at least — Matthew Fassler, Goldman Sachs U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, one big equity house sees a cor- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions rection down the road. But for recently rose to 12-month highs, impact of seasonal weather and and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make now, retail and consumer prod- “extending valuations for many fuel prices will be the trend to our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would ucts companies can celebrate of our covered companies.” watch, presenters said. While interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise their stock valuation gains. However, Fassler was quick the worst effects of the housing us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Since the start of last month, to add that, while the “substance market are yet to come, it won’t SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- stocks that have performed the behind the spending outlook impact holiday sales as much ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED best at retail include Nordstrom suggests that the sentiment shift as weather and gas prices, said Inc. (up more than 40 percent), will stick, we also think retail Richard Hastings, vice president, Chico’s FAS (up about 28 per- stocks are vulnerable to a cor- senior retail analyst, Bernard MONDAY: Tax Free World Exhibition, Cannes, France cent), Saks Inc. (up 29 percent), rection as the holiday season Sands, who was on the call. (through Friday). Urban Outfi tters (up 22 percent) approaches. For this reason, we Weather trends this year should and J. Crew (up more than 23 reiterate our cautious view on see a return to temperatures clos- TUESDAY: Coach Inc. reports first-quarter sales and percent). fi ve of eight covered retail in- er to seasonal averages. Warmer earnings. Driving retail stocks has been dustry subsectors.” weather is expected in the fi rst a rally of the Dow, which has Goldman Sachs has a cau- half of the holiday shopping sea- WEDNESDAY: Filo, Milan (through Thursday). gained 5 percent since Sept. tious view on the apparel and son, and colder temperatures in Intertextile Shanghai (through Saturday). 1. Last week, the Dow soared footwear, specialty, broadlines the second half, said Paul Walsh, Cache reports third-quarter sales and earnings. (on mall), hardlines and home vice president, Planalytics. The Estée Lauder Cos. reports fi rst-quarter sales furnishings subsectors. Last year, there were record and earnings. On the bullish outlook side, cold temperatures early in the 100% Financing Piper Jaffray said in a research season, followed by record warm THURSDAY: Dallas Women’s & Children’s Spring note that home heating bills temperatures. A shift back to- Apparel and Accessories Market (through Sunday). for should decline by 5 percent this ward normal temperatures could Alberto-Culver Co. reports fourth-quarter and year- Purchase Orders winter. There also will be more negatively impact seasonal ap- end sales and earnings. signifi cant declines in natural parel purchases in the fi rst half of Columbia Sportswear and Kenneth Cole Productions Target all size customers gas-dependent regions, which the holiday season while benefi t- report third-quarter sales and earnings. Start-ups okay could help expand consumers’ ing mass merchants, electronics wallets this holiday season. The supercenters and home centers. FRIDAY: Silmo Paris (through Oct. 30). research team at Piper said the Colder temperatures starting Wellman Inc. reports third-quarter sales and earnings.

CALL US TODAY “intense media coverage on Christmas week will reverse that COMING THIS WEEK Ashford Finance higher home heating costs last negative impact to help specialty SATURDAY: Stylemax, Chicago (through Oct. 31). year had a negative psychologi- apparel retailers and department (888) 532-9036 cal impact on consumers — a stores recover, Walsh said.

Flexible. Responsive. Relationship Driven. In Brief

Sterling Factors is a full-service factor whose origins go back over 75 years. More importantly, TIME FOR THE ARTS: Tonight the watchmaker Movado will we haven't forgotten that small and medium size businesses remain the core of our success. launch its Movado Future Legends, an initiative that will help We remain committed to meeting the needs of the business segment we've grown with for so many support thriving young artists in the fi elds of dance and music, with a reception and performance of the Kirov Orchestra of years. Unlike most other Factors, Sterling has all the resources of a full-service national bank. the Mariinsky Theatre at Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall. Our Senior Relationship Managers provide the same hands-on, high-touch personal and professional “Our brand is celebrating 125 years of artistry and artistic in- service that's been our style for decades. novation,” said Efraim Grinberg, president and chief executive offi cer of Movado Group Inc. in a statement. “We are excited to support the next generation of exceptional talent to build on STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION out commitment to some of the world’s leading artistic insti- A Subsidiary of STERLING NATIONAL BANK tutions.” Award winners include jazz pianist Jonathan Batiste selected by Jazz at Lincoln Center, mezzo soprano Isabel John LaLota, President Leonard selected by Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, Sterling Factors Corporation dancer Kathryn Morgan selected by the School of American Ballet, dancer Aaron Rogers selected by The Joffrey Ballet, and 212.575.4415 • [email protected] Ailey II dancer Tyrell V. Rolle selected by Alvin Ailey American www.SterlingFactors.com Dance Theater. Each winner will receive a crystal trophy, a sti- pend to support their artistic efforts and an M/125 watch from Our Doors Are Open All The Way To The Top | EST. 1929 | NYSE: STL | Member FDIC the fi rm’s 125th anniversary collection. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 3 WWD.COM VF Earnings Rise 10.1% Uniqlo Taps Designers

By Ross Tucker competitors losing space in the mass channel, like- For Capsule Collections ly a reference to falling sales of the Levi Strauss NEW YORK — Revenue growth across all divisions Signature brand at Wal-Mart, Wiseman said VF By Sharon Edelson pushed VF Corp. to its 12th consecutive quarter of was seeing growth in mass channel space. earnings gains. VF’s struggling intimates business also re- NEW YORK — When it comes to mar- “Certainly, the retail environment remains as bounded during the quarter. A strong performance keting itself in the U.S., Uniqlo hasn’t challenging as ever, so our performance this quar- by the Vanity Fair and Lily of France brands missed a trick. ter, and indeed this year, serves as a testament spurred a 4.6 percent revenue increase, to $223.7 Pop-up shops, prefabricated rov- to our efforts,” Mackey McDonald, chairman and million from $213.8 million. Imagewear revenues ing stores and advertising blitzes on chief executive offi cer, said during a company con- rose 6.3 percent, to $215.7 million from $203 mil- taxicab roofs and subway entrances ference call with analysts. lion, and sportswear revenues went up 5.8 per- are part of the arsenal that has been For the third quarter ended Sept. 30, earnings cent, to $184 million from $173.9 million. employed to raise awareness of the increased 10.1 percent, to $197.7 million, or $1.75 a The company’s retail operations are also gain- brand in advance of next month’s share, surpassing Wall Street analysts’ consensus ing momentum. The company opened 21 stores for opening of a 36,000-square-foot Uniqlo estimate of $1.67. Earnings for the same period a a total of 560 at the end of the quarter. Retail sales fl agship on Broadway in SoHo. year ago were $179.6 million, or $1.57 a share. increased 17 percent, and the company expects to Now the Japanese casualwear Revenues rose 11.6 percent, to $2.03 bil- open 20 to 25 stores during the fourth quarter. retailer has tapped Lutz & Patmos, lion, compared with revenues of $1.82 billion “We are obviously more aggressive about roll- Kino, Alice Roi, Phillip Lim and in the year-ago period. Sales rose 11.8 percent, ing out concepts that are proving to deliver good GVGV to design capsule collec- to $2.01 billion from $1.8 billion. McDonald at- return to our shareholders,” said Wiseman, point- tions for women as part of its spring tributed gains to a larger-than-expected surge in ing to Vans as an example of stores the company is Designer Invitation Project, which is September sales. working to open “as quickly as we can fi nd the right being launched in conjunction with The company’s outdoor segment, which in- real estate.” Napapijri stores, on the other hand, the SoHo store opening. cludes The North Face, Vans and Napapijri will be slower to bow as the company works on the Uniqlo is taking a page from an- brands, again led all divisions in revenue gains, correct retail concept and product assortment. other foreign transplant, H&M, which posting a 25.5 percent increase, to $659 million For the nine months, earnings rose 12 percent, made waves by hiring designers such from $525.2 million. Domestic revenues for the to $424.9 million, or $3.77 a share, compared with as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney segment were up 20 percent while international earnings of $379.2 million, or $3.32 a share, in the and Viktor & Rolf, names not usually revenues expanded 27 percent. same period a year ago. Revenues increased 8.4 associated with fast fashion, to create “The good news is, we believe there’s much percent, to $5.276 billion from $4.86 billion. collections for the H&M label. more to come,” Eric Wiseman, president and chief The outdoor segment posted a 27.4 percent Target has also brought class to operating offi cer, who was named to the company’s revenue gain, coming in at $1.42 billion compared the masses with the Isaac Mizrahi board last week, said during the call. He said The with $1.11 billion a year ago. Jeanswear revenues label and Go! International, its pro- North Face brand bookings for spring were al- rose 3.5 percent, to $2.08 billion from $2.01 billion. gram of rotating designers. So far, ready up more than 20 percent in North America The intimate apparel segment slid 2.3 percent, to Luella Bartley, Tara Jarmon and and Europe. $649.3 million from $664.7 million. Imagewear was Sophie Albou have participated. “We’re seeing a similar story at Vans,” said up 4.7 percent, to $598.2 million from $571.2 mil- Next up is Behnaz Sarafpour. A dress Wiseman, noting that spring bookings for the lion, and sportswear revenues increased 4.3 per- Uniqlo’s capsule collections will by Alice brand were up 47 percent in the U.S. and more cent, to $488.2 million from $467.9 million. be available at all of its stores world- Roi for than 20 percent in Europe. The strong results moved management to raise wide. The company views the project Uniqlo. The company’s jeanswear segment, its largest its guidance for the third time this year. Executives as a cross-cultural exchange, expos- and oldest division, reported growth across all re- expect revenues will make an 8 percent improve- ing American consumers to young tail channels, including a rebound in the Lee busi- ment over last year, to a record $8 billion. Japanese designers and Tokyo culture, and vice versa. ness. Jeanswear revenues increased 6.3 percent, “This is particularly significant when you Each capsule collection will remain in stores for one month and to $738.2 million from $694.7 million. Domestic consider that our last milestone, $6 billion, was will feature eight looks, a spokeswoman said. The items can be revenues grew 5 percent. Asked about one of its reached just two years ago,” McDonald said. mixed and matched within a collection and will be complemented by Uniqlo products. The collections will draw on the strength of each designer. The fi rst, from Lutz & Patmos, will bow in February, and focus on sweat- BLANCHARD’S A SINGLE LENS: Tyler Brûlé, the founder of that temple ers. The designers are known for modern knitwear in luxury fi bers. NEW HOME: to hedonistic minimalism Wallpaper, has a new title In March, Japanese designer Kino will design tops and skirts in knit Wenner Media on the boil: Monocle, which will launch worldwide fabrics; Alice Roi in April will offer dresses and separates; Phillip MEMO PAD is cementing its in mid-February. An offi cial announcement is Lim in May will develop an abbreviated collection of his label 3.1 commitment to expected today. The English-language magazine, Phillip Lim, including dresses with bubble hems, and GVGV from the Web by heading to the wild side — it’s brought which initially will be skewed more toward men, Japan will feature crisp shorts with bibs. on Keith Blanchard, the madcap former editor in chief will feature a mix of stories on global affairs and Three men’s wear designers were also announced: Cloak’s of Maxim, in the new position of executive director geopolitical issues, as well as culture, design, Alexander Plokhov, and Satoru Tanaka and HALB from Japan. online to oversee all of the company’s Web sites. fashion and consumer goods. And since no “I’m excited to have the opportunity to work with these esteemed and Blanchard actually has been working with Wenner print title can exist these days without an online talented young designers,” said Yuki Katsuta, president of Uniqlo Design on a project basis, fi rst with Us Weekly’s Web component, a Web site with broadcast rather than Studio N.Y. “I look forward to seeing each collection and the unique vi- redesign — which launched after Labor Day — and print content will launch a few weeks before the sion and interpretation they see for the broader Uniqlo customer.” now he’s focusing on Rolling Stone’s site. Next up magazine. “I’m so tired of hearing from all corners Nobuo Domae, Uniqlo’s U.S. chief executive offi cer, said the proj- is the launch of Men’s Journal’s new and improved of the media that print is dead,” proclaimed Brûlé. ect will underscore the company’s philosophy of balancing “high site, set for mid-2007. Blanchard’s fi rst offi cial day “Well, it’s not. It’s a time when magazines should style and high quality merchandise at affordable prices.” is Oct. 30; he could not be reached at press time. be pulling up their socks and turning out more Uniqlo is owned by Fast Retailing, whose other brands include Gary Armstrong, chief marketing offi cer and “brand fabulous, more confi dent, more robust products.” Comptoir des Cotonniers in France and One Zone in Japan. protector” (interesting title) at Wenner, said Us Like, presumably, Monocle. Brûlé, editor in chief Weekly and Rolling Stone’s sites have received more and chairman, said the launch issue would boast hits since Blanchard has been in the picture, but about 300 pages, with advertisers ranging from the goal is to drive even more traffi c to them (isn’t it fashion and design brands to banks and airlines. The always?). In October, Us Weekly projects 1.5 million initial circulation would be about 100,000, with the Ralph Lauren to Open in Moscow unique visitors and 12 million page views. But goal of boosting it to 250,000 over the next three the site is still a far leap from People.com, which years. But the 10-times-a-year Monocle isn’t aimed NEW YORK — Ralph is taking on Russia. received 5.6 million unique visitors last month. at the masses — its cover price will be $10. Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. said Friday that it plans to open two Meanwhile, Rolling Stone projects 3.2 million Funding has come from a clutch of private units in the Moscow area next spring. unique visitors and 17 million page views and is still investors — mostly families — in Australia, Japan, Lauren will open a fl agship at 1, Tretyakovsky Passage. The in the driver’s seat, as both Vibe.com and Spin.com Spain and Sweden. Brûlé declined to say how 8,000-square-foot unit will carry an assortment of the designer’s had less than 340,000 unique visitors last month, much money was being invested. The magazine women’s and men’s brands. The company will open a second, according to a spokeswoman at Nielsen/NetRatings. is majority-owned and will be published by 5,000-square-foot location at the Barvikha Luxury Village, a new Armstrong declined to forecast how Men’s Winkontent, majority owned by Brûlé, and will be shopping area in an upscale suburb of Moscow that’s comparable Journal will look after the redesign, but he said Us based in London. So far, the editorial staff numbers to the Americana mall in Manhasset, N.Y. Weekly’s site will continue to evolve and have an about 22, including Richard Spencer Powell as For the Moscow venture, Polo has partnered with Mercury even different appearance beginning early next year. creative director. The business staff numbers eight, Distribution S.A., the luxury goods trading company that oper- “We are seeing what people are responding to,” he with Pamela Arthurs as publisher. ates fashion retail businesses. said, adding that formerly, the site was basically Monocle will feature four types of paper stock, Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief executive, and Roger only comprised of a blog. Since September, and fashion will feature large, with two to three Farah, president and chief operating offi cer, have made free- Armstrong said usmagazine.com readers have fashion stories per issue — two men’s and one standing stores a priority for growth for the company, from stand- shown the most interest in photos and breaking women’s. One thing the magazine won’t have, Brûlé alone Double RL stores to Rugby to smaller, more intimate Ralph news. On all of Wenner’s sites, he said the aim is to said, is celebrity coverage. “We’ll be an oasis from Lauren concept boutiques. The company has also been pursuing break news, post articles from the magazines but that — we’re not trawling that market.” Instead, he global opportunities, having opened a 16,000-square-foot empori- with enhanced features, such as extra quotes and said, his reporters will be out in the fi eld covering um on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone in 2004, and an 18,000-square- content not in the print version and “stay within news and trend stories (aren’t celebrities trend- foot retail temple on Tokyo’s Omotesando Boulevard last spring. the universe of the brand.” Whether that means setting?) and taking a “predictive” stance. “This In fi scal 2006, Polo’s international business accounted for 30 the peripatetic Blanchard will fi nally fi nd a more really goes back to my pre-Wallpaper roots, when percent, or $1.6 billion, of the company’s wholesale net sales of permanent home after short stints at Hearst and I was a foreign correspondent and doing social- $5.3 billion. Bauer remains to be seen. — Amy Wicks political reportage,” said Brûlé. — Samantha Conti — Marc Karimzadeh 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 WWD.COM HEAD OF THE CLASS One-Stop Shop NEW YORK — Between the blustery, rainy NEW YORK — If anyone got any work done on afternoon and the mint herbal tea he orders to Thursday, bravo, because the day was packed with warm up, British actor Julian Ovenden must social calls from noon through night. feel right at home while making his Broadway In the evening, the stop was BG, the restaurant at debut in “Butley,” opening Wednesday at the Bergdorf Goodman, where Moschino creative director Booth Theatre. Rossella Jardini was being feted. “I don’t like parties He has a little help from playwright Simon so much,” said the bejeweled Italian through a translator. “I prefer Gray, as “Butley” is a thoroughly English play, to be behind the scenes.” But co-host Ginnifer Goodwin along with famously produced with Alan Bates as the Chris Klein, Topher Grace and Molly Sims were intent on celebrating lead in 1971. This time around, Nathan Lane her. Goodwin, who claimed to be “obsessed” with the label, fl ew to assumes center stage, as Ben Butley, a cynical, town specifi cally for the soiree. The actress was between shoots cantankerous literature professor at a London of the HBO series “Big Love,” in which she plays a polygamist’s university who turns away his eager students wife. So has the show taught her anything about love itself? “So with the brusqueness of a maître d’ at a four- much of it is understanding how different people navigate their star restaurant. Ovenden co-stars as Joey, relationships,” she said. “I fi nd I am more patient.” a young colleague who shares an offi ce, an It’s a good thing, too, because her new beau Klein arrived an hour apartment and a complex romantic past with into the party. The two then tiptoed around each other before fi nally his older mentor that becomes clearer as the joining up, all smiles and hand-holding, while a publicist blocked pair banter and trade insults. photographers from snapping the duo. The couple met on the set of “There’s a kind of dependency between their upcoming fl ick, “Day Zero,” but if it was love at fi rst sight, Klein them. They’re like kids really, quite childish. isn’t dishing. “We had an immediate respect for each other,” he said It’s not a grown-up relationship,” says somewhat obliquely. Ovenden. Others hit the Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Chris Klein, The actor had to overcome his own initial Center’s preview for the Haughton International Fine Art and Ginnifer Goodwin intimidation about acting beside Lane, but Antique Dealers Show beforehand. There, sponsor Taryn Rose; and Topher Grace, he has nothing but praise for his co-star, who Ondine de Rothschild and her mother, Ariane all in Moschino. performed the same role to raves in Boston Dandois; Martha Stewart, and Lydia Hearst three years ago. mingled among the artifacts and helped raise nearly $1 million for the institution. Co-chair Joanne Julian Ovenden de Guardiola was distracted by her husband, who was asking her to focus on a particular work. “Oh, we’re just looking at this little library painting,” she joked, referring to an estimated $1.6 million painting of a wildlife scene. Earlier that day, Dabney Mercer, Caroline Cummings, Patricia Cobiella, Eugenia Silva and Stephanie Field Harris treated the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s young Apollo Circle members to lunch and a fashion show at the Escada store on Fifth Avenue. “You would look great in that,” Harris said to Silva. “I can only wear Armani,” she replied dryly. Uptown, more social fi xtures, from Renée Rockefeller to Gigi Mortimer, gathered at the Valentino boutique for a luncheon to honor Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece. The cover girl of November’s issue of House & Garden (and clad in a couture Valentino gown), the princess was making the rounds in Manhattan, catching up with old friends and mixing business with pleasure. “I should do this more often,” she said with a laugh of posing for magazines and getting to jet to New York to do press. The previous day, she invited pals and their little ones to her Madison Avenue boutique for “an afternoon of shopping, face-painting and Gigi treats.” Alex Kramer, Valesca Mortimer Guerrand-Hermès and in Vera Samantha Boardman perused Wang. the boutique while a bevy of kids stood in line for face- “When you’re working with someone as

Renée E CHINSEE painting and snacked on Rossella famous as him…you don’t quite know what to Rockefeller Eleni’s animal cookies. All in Jardini expect,” explains Ovenden. “But he’s a star in a day’s work. with Alexis the proper way, in the old-fashioned way. He’s Bryan in brilliant and, fi rst and foremost, he’s an actor. Moschino. He’s not a celebrity or a personality. You know you go and meet fi lm stars nowadays and 75 percent of them, they’re not really actors.” Ovenden clearly aspires to Lane’s career model. The eldest of three children, he grew up immersed in the world of music, playing the trombone, piano, organ and trumpet, and singing in choir school (his father is a chaplain to the Queen). He earned a music scholarship to what he self-effacingly calls “another school” (that would be Eton) and then yet another choral ride to Oxford. His last year at university, Ovenden decided to try drama school, and soon after found himself in a Diet Coke commercial that brought him Patricia an avid female fan base. He has since earned Cobiella his chops with British TV work on shows like in Anna “Foyle’s War” and theater parts ranging from Sui and Shakespeare to Oscar Wilde to musicals. Eugenia Though he’s happy about his constant stream Silva in of roles and the stage reputation he has earned Giorgio in London, the actor clearly has a love-hate Armani relationship with fame. He hopes to do fi lm and work (and has lived in L.A. for the past year- Dries and-a-half), but is wary of the public attention Van that might come with increased success. Noten. “I mean, you have to have some kind of profi le to get work. If I’d done no work, I’d Prince Pavlos probably not have got this job,” he says. “But and Princess Joanne de that’s what you employ agents and managers Marie-Chantal Guardiola to do is to fi nd a way for you to get these things of Greece in in Carolina Lydia without having to sell your soul.” Valentino. Herrera. Hearst — Vanessa Lawrence MOSCHINO BY STEVE EICHNER; ESCADA BY PAVEL ANTONOV; ANTIQUES FAIR BY SCOTT RUDD/PMC; VALENTINO BY JOHN AQUINO; OVENDEN BY GEORG JOHN AQUINO; OVENDEN BY SCOTT BY RUDD/PMC; VALENTINO BY ANTIQUES FAIR ANTONOV; PAVEL STEVE EICHNER; ESCADA BY MOSCHINO BY

6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 Put to the West During last week’s Los Angeles Fashion Week, designers channeled everything from the starry heavens to Mexican folklore, sending out looks that were sexy, sweet and sporty.

▲ Corey Lynn Calter

Jennifer Nicholson

▲ Louis Verdad

Kevan Hall: The stars shone LOS brightly at Kevan Hall, not only in the audience with Angela Bassett and Virginia Madsen on hand, but ANGELES on the runway, too. For spring, the designer was inspired by the heavens — from dusk until dawn — opening his show with a shimmering sequined minidress. Pale silk jersey gowns were as wispy as clouds, while a vibrant yellow chiffon dress glowed like a sunrise. Hall hit the mark this season with a cohesive collection that displayed his knack for simple embellishments and a juxtaposition of fl uid fabrics and sturdy construction. No doubt these celestial gowns will undoubtedly soon end up on some Hollywood beauties.

Jennifer Nicholson: Working all manner of sweet, Jennifer Nicholson Collection sent out 28 delicious looks for spring. And what could be more Bebe charming, albeit sometimes in a naughty way, than a baby doll with short-shorts peeking out from beneath, or patterned leggings paired with a ruffl ed bustier blouse? Nicholson chose to focus primarily on dresses — very short ones, at that — in a palette of soft pinks, peaches and white. It was her prints, though — stars in varying sizes, surreal red lips, cartoon-like foxes — that made the collection a fl irt fest for the young at heart, or at least for the young and thin.

Corey Lynn Calter: Channeling an irreverent innocent girl with a Kevan fl irtatious side, à la “Pretty Baby,” Corey Lynn Calter began her Hall show with pretty yet street-ready bed jackets in lace and silk, pairing them with gauzy trapeze tops and cuffed-hem shorts. But rather than continuing in that signature vein, Calter pleasantly surprised with a Mod twist of striking Sixties print trapeze dresses and cropped jackets. Her graffi ti-splattered baby dolls and voluminous high-waisted skirts transported that Lolita-esque girl into the modern day to great effect.

Louis Verdad: Louis Verdad’s clientele counts on him for his witty take on tailoring, and he did not disappoint with the plethora of chic dresses and cap-sleeved blouses that he paired with full lace skirts or houndstooth pencils. Unfortunately, there was nothing appealing about the Eighties-inspired jersey pieces that he peppered throughout the show. Verdad has steadfastly stuck to his retro-glam guns, and as he proved with this collection, it’s where he’s at his best.

Collection Bebe: David Cardona showed an expertly constructed, though not very wearable, Bebe collection that juxtaposed voluminous organza trenchcoats and minidresses with sleek capris and cropped jackets. The gold zippers and buckles adorning mesh bustiers were Eighties overkill, but soft asymmetrical chiffon dresses should please Bebe’s loyal customers who love the label’s sexy, monochromatic aesthetic. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Erica Davies Shay Todd Dina Bar-El

Evisu PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DONATO SARDELLA AND TYLER BOYE GIANNONI, DONATO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY more from the shows Shay Todd: Models cruised Chan Luu down Shay Todd’s runway in yacht-ready nautical swimwear and sexy resort Erica Davies: Erica Davies transformed the sidewalk in front of host pieces, including patent- store Iconology into a desert oasis, complete with sand, cacti and leather bomber-style barefoot models clad in bohemian dresses. Fabrics were soft and boleros and luxurious terry prints were earthy in the all-dress collection — a standout being a fan- hoodies. print panel number in silk chiffon. Contrasting strap and bust detail gave a subtle ode to “Mad Max.” Dina Bar-El: Leaving the frills and fuss behind, Dina Evisu: For Japanese cult brand Evisu’s fi rst U.S. runway show, Bar-El practiced restraint designers Bonita Newby and Johnny Diamandis brought rigid denim with her red-carpet to life with sculptural blazers, jumpsuits and skin-tight jeans. They collection of simple body- injected that same originality and craftsmanship into a great group of skimming cuts, in which a fi tted paper twill dresses and koi print kimono-style dresses. swingy, striped halter dress was a highlight. Morphine Generation: For the girl who wants a bit of prep with her dark rocker wares there is Erik Hart’s Morphine Generation. This Des Kohan: At her Miracle season, he conceived his collection in London, Mile boutique, Desiree channeling traditional English tailoring in Kohan captured a Twenties great shirtdresses, mannish blouses and parlor feel with glamorous crested blazers with distressed seams. yet simple dresses and gowns. Sue Wong: Silly styling aside, Sue Wong sent out an expansive and unexpectedly Morphine Chan Luu: Like a warm sweet collection inspired in part by Generation summer breeze, Chan turn-of-the-century underpinnings Luu’s lovely silk dresses and Mexican folklore. While she’s hung easily from the known for her heavily embellished body, many accented with eveningwear — of which there was Des Kohan rosettes, bows or delicate still plenty — Wong’s more youthful pleats at the neckline. day dresses were standouts, done up with bright dish-towel embroidered Voom by Joy Han: Her trademark rainbow colors and oversized whimsical prints motifs and layers of white and were back, but it was Joy Han’s versatile black burnout frocks adorned with candy-colored eyelet. foliage-toned fl ocking that stood out the most.

Ashley Paige: Inspired by Jimi Single: Galina Sobolev brought her California girl to a more sophisticated place Hendrix and Janis Joplin, Ashley by stepping away from Single’s signature prints, replacing them with a series of Paige showed a lineup of spunky chic neutrals. swimsuits and halter-neck dresses in lilac, turquoise and lime. Dainty Metro 7: Wal-Mart’s ubersuccessful Metro 7 line showcased city-perfect jersey hummingbirds were appliquéd on some separates, plus an assortment of on-trend denim silhouettes. bandeaus, while playful knit leaf charms dangled from the strings of others. It was Samora: The Edwardian lace blouses and tea-stained eyelet day dresses that Sue the fl oor-length striped dress, though, Samora Olayan sent out were done with an elegant touch of turn-of-the-century Wong that stole the show. charm, and could have been plucked right out of her great-grandmother’s hope chest. Frankie B.: Glam rock was fused with Ashley Carnaby Street at Frankie B, where Paige Joseph Domingo: Perfect for the elegant woman on a tropical holiday, Swarovski- Daniella Clarke focused on Sixties shapes, studded swimsuits, eyelet day dresses and fl uttering chiffon dresses were key at i.e., baby-doll dresses done in Eighties Joseph Domingo. motifs, i.e., zebra-striped bows. While the dresses were wearable, it was the Thrive: Marie Antoinette met “Blade Runner” at Thrive, where Jacqueline skintight silver jeans and leg-lengthening Frankie B. Lavuaun showed distracting jacquard pants and cropped jackets, but highlights striped denim that stole the show. included fi tted sheer cashmere tops and cuffed shorts. 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006

Accessories Report A Potpourri of Trends Rule at Premiere Classe

By Ellen Groves and Katya Foreman Buyers named Michael Teperson and Thai brand Fly Now’s leather bags in addi- tion to Leapioperaie’s crochet bags as among the standout collections. PARIS — Buying budgets and attendance were up at the Premiere Classe accessories Fortnum & Mason’s Ware observed there was “a plethora of leathers, with plenty show, which ended its four-day run here at the Jardin de Tuileries on Oct. 9. of python and crocodile.” Shopping ahead of the London Piccadilly store’s revamp, Retailers said they were looking for novelty pieces and new designers. Many re- Ware had doubled her 2005 order at U.K. leather brand Piatonna. Its bestseller was ported double-digit increases in their spending outlays ahead of opening new doors a python bag hand-painted to give it an iridescent effect for 735 pounds, or $1,378 at in 2007 or increasing the fl oor space designated to accessories. current exchange rates. Buyers focused on bags, which emerged as the strongest category. Pia Tonna, a former fashion marketing executive, has recently moved the brand to There were 12,984 retailers compared with 12,300 last year. About 60 percent were Milan from London to be closer to leather suppliers and better build its reputation from outside France, helping to boost attendance 5 percent. The U.S. made up 8 per- for quality craftsmanship. cent of attendees, versus 11 percent in 2005. P “I’d hate for us to become a one-season wonder,” Tonna said. “We H O T “We come here for individuality, for mid-price levels with a point of difference,” said O have celebrities who buy our bags, but that shouldn’t be the point of S B Y Nicky Sugden, leather goods buyer for British department store chain House of Fraser. D the bag.” O M “Patent leather and metallic styles are everywhere, but what’s new in terms of IN In jewelry, key trends were “bolder and cleaner pieces,” said IQ U treatments is a prevalence of washed, crinkled or ruched styles,” said Ed E Tuesday’s Child’s Emerson. M A Burstell, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of IT Jewelry designer Loubier noted the move toward one R beauty, accessories and shoes at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. E piece of fantasy jewelry, like the chandelier-style neck- “There are some fantastic techniques with Italian leather here,” laces seen on the runway at Viktor & Rolf. said Hedieh Loubier, a jewelry and accessories designer who was vis- “Trends in jewelry change so fast,” Loubier said. “If you iting the show to check out the trends for private clients. buy less expensive costume items, you can change them after Loubier lauded Il Bisonte’s washed Italian leather bags for their clas- four months.” sic appeal. Vintage treatments were also prevalent. Minority Some buyers said they avoid trends at all cost. “Fabrics and skins still have that aged look about them, this time ap- “I need to start reading magazines so I know what not to plied to metallics and patent leathers,” said Rick Cytynbaum, buyer buy,” said actress Phoebe Cates, who owns the Blue Tree bou- for Canadian store TNT. tique on New York’s Madison Avenue, which has built its reputation by Cytynbaum also noted the return of the bowling bag and more tracking down little-known designers. structured forms. “We tend to fi nd Japanese designers here,” Cates said, fresh from New bag directions included fl at totes and a number of mes- ordering Japanese jewelry brand E.M. “We were the only ones to carry senger styles that “hug the body,” said Bergdorf’s Burstell. it in New York last season, I think. We had their big rings.” “Short shoulder bags looked newest and of course clutches For spring-summer, Cates picked up E.M.’s stackable rings and that were part of every collection,” he added. chandelier-shaped earrings featuring tiny printed initials. Cates was “We’re seeing more hand-held bags than in the past,” said also hunting for handmade accessories. Alissa Emerson, owner of Tuesday’s Child, a designer shop in “We buy two pieces at a time, so there aren’t 20 people with the Scarsdale, N.Y. Leapioperaie same thing,” Cates said. “This show is great for good weirdo stuff.” Emerson was on the hunt for a new handbag line for spring, and Browsing jewelry at Atelier VM, Sakurako Nibe from Japanese cited pleated and puckered textures, like those seen at Henri Beguelin, as important. chain Free’s International said she was looking for Eighties-style items. Chains were still apparent, but often covered in material, said Helen Lambert from “The concept for our shop will be Eighties, so we are looking for kitsch jewelry French buying offi ce Aga, whose clients include Neiman Marcus and Lane Crawford. and charms,” she said, noting that her spending was up as the chain had opened four Lambert pointed to Avril Gau for its chain bags. new doors this fall.

Leather Goods Brands Take Slow Route to China Morellato SpA Buys Sector Group By Vicki Rothrock sentative Maurizio Bacchi, who splits his By Amanda Kaiser also owns the more exclusive Philip time between China and Italy. Watch and Lucien Rochat brands HONG KONG — Not all companies are The selling point for Michelle is the MILAN — Italian jewelry and and makes, through licensing agree- rushing into China to sell their goods, “relation between quality, fashion and watchband maker Morellato SpA ments, watches for Roberto Cavalli, though it might be tempting, since an es- price,” he said, adding it strives for fash- bought 100 percent of watch manu- Moschino and Pirelli Pzero. Sector timated 18 percent of the country’s 1.3 bil- ion at a low price. Wholesale prices range facturer Sector Group in a bid to also has a license for Valentino lion people are considered middle class. from $3 to $12. fi nd business synergies and expand watches, although it’s not clear Hong Kong’s Jibsen, which manufac- In this range, it might seem like beyond Europe. whether that pact will be renewed. tures handbags, has an interest in China, Michelle could be directly hit by the low- “In the market for fashion jew- At retail, Sector watches run but for now, its prices are too high for the cost Chinese shops entering the European elry, we’ve seen how the correlation from about 150 euros (about $188) market, said merchandiser Wendy Hui. market. However, while those stores might with watches has become stronger in for a simple model to as much as “China requires a new setup with style, have low prices, “they cannot really have the minds of consumers,” Morellato 10,000 euros ($12,539) for a gold and price point and management,” Hui said. nice style, nice fashion,” Bacchi said. “We president Massimo Carraro said in diamond piece. Morellato’s jewelry Jibsen was an exhibitor at Fashion try to make fashion.” an interview. prices range from 22 euros ($28) for a Access, which ended its three-day run Michelle has two factories in China; 30 Morellato makes jewelry under its pearl charm to 188 euros ($236) for a Oct. 6 at the Hong Kong Convention & people make samples at one and 300 focus own brand name and holds licenses chunky steel chain necklace. Sector’s Exhibition Center. The fair focuses on on manufacturing at the other. Another for Miss Sixty and Just Cavalli bau- watches are carried in the U.S. by handbags, footwear, travelwear, leather three Chinese factories work for the fi rm. bles. The 75-year-old company got its Macy’s, Watch Station, Saks Fifth garments and small leather goods. The company has no clients in China start as a watchband manufacturer Avenue, Tourneau, Fears and Zale. For the time being, Jibsen exports and prefers to export, Bacchi said, in part and diversifi ed into jewelry six years Carraro said Morellato would only to chain and department stores, because documentation can be complicat- ago. Convinced of untapped poten- dedicate next year to “relaunching” such as Nordstrom. Most of Jibsen’s ed when dealing with China. tial in the watch market, it launched Sector, improving the technologi- customers hail from New York, which Hong Kong’s Studio 1601, which of- its own line of timepieces at last cal content of the timepieces, and helps to explain why it has a showroom fers leather goods such as handbags and spring’s edition of the trade show boosting communications and pub- there and a head offi ce in New Jersey. shoes, isn’t looking for Chinese retailers Baselworld. lic relations for the various watch The remaining 40 percent of the compa- to do business, said Krista Lee, business The company expects to post sales brands. Morellato has always em- ny’s clients are mainly from Spain and development manager. Nevertheless, the of 200 million euros, or $250.8 million phasized marquee advertising, and Germany, Hui said. company did meet with potential custom- at current exchange, this year, and in- used Ben Affl eck in a previous jew- The 15-year-old Hong Kong company ers from China during the fair, Lee said, crease them 25 percent, to 250 million elry campaign, but Carraro said it’s has one factory in China and is planning adding business was good at Fashion euros, or $313.5 million, in 2007. Those too early to outline specifi c plans to open another in early 2007. There are Access because people were quick to projections include revenue from the for Sector. 40 people working in its offi ce here and make decisions. Sector business. Morellato does about He did say Morellato and Sector about 1,000 working at its factory in China. The reason is twofold for not entering 85 percent of its business in Europe. would be able to exploit geographic It sources leather and PVC mainly from the Chinese market in a big way: The com- Morellato completed a deal this synergies. Morellato can use Sector’s South Korea, some from China, Hui said. pany would like to wait for the market to week to buy Sector from Bulgari U.S. headquarters in New York as a Jibsen was one of 500 companies from mature and a partner in the company has SpA-managed investment fund base to expand its jewelry presence 27 countries and regions to display their a retail chain consisting of three stores in Opera for 45 million euros, or $56.4 there, while Sector can build off goods at Fashion Access, which was orga- Guangzhou, which gets fi rst dibs on the million, including the assumption of Morellato’s distribution infrastruc- nized by Asia Pacifi c Leather Fair Ltd. and market. debts at the watch company. ture in Asia to penetrate new areas. managed by CMP Asia. “The opportunity isn’t huge for us” in Sector’s revenues have been The Opera fund bought Sector Competing with the lower-priced China, Lee said. Part of the issue is price. choppy in recent years. Morellato in 2001 as it embarked on a buying Chinese products on European turf makes Shoes from Studio 1601 go for $24 to $35 said the watchmaker would do 70 spree, snapping up stakes in boat, business diffi cult for Michelle, which spe- wholesale. million euros, or $87.8 million, in furniture and food companies and cializes in fashion bags made of canvas Most of the company’s business is done sales this year. control of shoemaker Bruno Magli, and PVC. Based in Guangzhou, China, a with wholesalers from around the world. Carraro said the watchmaker’s which has struggled in recent years. city in the south, Michelle has a small rep- About 50 percent are from Southeast Asia varied brand portfolio made it a de- An Opera spokeswoman declined to resentative offi ce in Italy. Its clients are and 25 percent each from the U.S. and sirable acquisition target. Sector’s comment on recurring speculation mostly from Europe, but there are some Europe. The company has two factories in namesake brand boasts a sporty, mas- that the fund is shopping around the from the U.S. and Australia, said repre- China, one for shoes and another for bags. culine line of watches. The company footwear company. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 9 WWD.COM Innerwear Report November Market Presents Challenges

By Karyn Monget Leigh Bantivoglio NEW YORK — The November market here continues to pose a vexing will show lots issue for manufacturers and retailers. of sexy lace. Although small in comparison to the August venue and preceding the fi rst February market, which executives believe will pull a huge turnout, November remains a viable platform for some vendors and merchants, but represents fractional business for others. However, the common denominator in November will be its check-point status for trends and key items for spring-summer selling. The inaugural February edition will combine the former January and March markets into one major session for back-to-school and fall business. Some designers, such as Eileen West, whose sleepwear is licensed to the Komar Co., view next month’s market as an opportunity to get a jump-start on fall 2007. “We are looking forward to this market and will be showing every- thing new for fall selling, all the way through August deliveries,” West said. “We are doing this because the next market is not until February.” West noted that her fall sleepwear was inspired by an “Anglomania” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. “There will be some very Victorian items, lacy and very romantic,” she said. “But there will also be lots of new fabrics and actual tapestries of big English roses.” Colors will include burgundy, rose, olive, brown and white. “Since it’s a tiny market for us, we’ll continue to show spring-sum- mer merchandise, but we’ll be taking the opportunity to launch our fi rst bridal line, called Bridal Luxury, which ships March 15,” designer Leigh Bantivoglio said. The bridal collection will include an Empire-waist cami, a sheer-lace baby doll and a long sleep gown with a plunge back and crisscross de- tail, Bantivoglio said. There will also be a cami of stretch silk for fuller- busted women, with a sweetheart neckline and three-quarter straps. “I think there’s a niche in the market for luxury bridal items and retailers like the idea of an earlier delivery,” she said. “It will be a replenishment program, and because of the seasonless colors — porcelain white, petal pink and azure blue — they won’t need to be Eileen West marked down.” will continue a Several resources said the Oct. 30 to Nov. 3 edition remains key, Victorian theme. despite the likely absence of smaller specialty operations. “This is not an important specialty store market and speciality store retailers have complained in the past that they want to be at their stores during pre-Thanksgiving busi- ness,” said Marc Kimmelman, vice president of sales for Flora Nikrooz sleepwear and Baby Phat Intimate Apparel by Kimora Lee Simmons at Age Group Ltd. Amy Ligouri, vice presi- dent of merchandising for On Gossamer daywear and founda- tions, said, “On Gossamer will More colors are be showing in-store June, July added to Hanky Panky’s and August deliveries for sum- bloomer undies. mer and transition. This market is expected to be smaller be- cause there will be no Lingerie Americas [trade show], but it would have been a smaller market overall.” She added that the “usual list” of major stores had made ap- pointments, including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Belk, Dillard’s Department Stores, Lord & Taylor and Bloomingdale’s. Ligouri noted that the On Gossamer brand, which was acquired by the Carole Hochman Design Group in April, has been primarily a daywear line, but there are plans to expand the brand into founda- tions-type bras. “We will be introducing two new bras that match back to our mesh daywear, and going forward to February we will introduce more new bra styles and will be launching On Gossamer sleep- wear,” Ligouri said. Gale Epstein, president and creative director of Hanky Panky, outlined several early fall highlights: signature lace panties with co- ordinating tops in Crayola colors of spearmint, azure blue, daffodil and teaberry red; mesh bloomers in light blue, pink, carnation, sea glass green and black and white, and bridal baby dolls. The lace and mesh baby dolls will be available in baby blue and white. “We’ll also be offering assortments of prints in our thongs and boy shorts, calling it Panty Party for a little spice in the panty de- partment,” Epstein said. “I really won’t be showing any new product with the exception of a new group of hand-painted silks and some different fabrics at my sales rep, Vicki Montana, because it’s a small market,” said sleep- wear and daywear designer Ying Li. “This market is too small to expand into more groups, and Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day business is done. So, we’ll wait until February to show fall.” Maria Scotto, a retailer-turned-sleepwear designer, said she doesn’t have “great expectations” for the market, but added, “I’ll be showing for two days, Oct. 30 and Oct. 31, by appointment at 152 Madison Avenue at the Linda Hartman showroom. There will be a number of retailers in town, so we’ll see what happens.” 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 WWD.COM Plaza Readies for Retail Experience

Continued from page one The Plaza world and one of the best jewelers. This would be The plan is to turn the Plaza into the ultimate a new concept for all of them.” shopping-cum-entertainment experience for In the Palm Court, which will remain a res- the well-heeled, a high-end Disney-esque taurant, Elad is re-creating a 1,200-square-foot world, where the Palm Court is a refi ned Crystal glass dome using black-and-white photos of the Palace, the Oak Room is a Liberty Tree Tavern original and shards of colored glass found in the with white-gloved waiters serving aged sirloins, demolition. According to Naftali, a former owner, and luxury retailers hawk fashion, jewelry, ac- Conrad Hilton, took down the interior skylight cessories, cosmetics, antiques and gourmet vict- or laylight in the mid-Forties and installed a uals in 160,000 square feet of space spread over dropped ceiling. six levels. From the Palm Court there will be a clear vista Elad president Miki Naftali said several let- to the Terrace Room, with gilted archways, ba- ters of intent have been signed, but declined to roque chandeliers and leather ceiling that recall name tenants until the leases are completed. the design excesses of the days when Ivana Trump Retail and restaurant tenants are expected to ran the hotel. “The Palm Court will be like a piazza begin opening in the third quarter of 2007, and a in Italy,” Hinkley said. “Imagine with the restora- grand opening is scheduled for October 2007. tion how many people will come here to experi- The retail confi guration lends itself to sever- ence the Palm Court.” al scenarios. “There’s been a lot of interest from The Terrace Room has 5,000 square feet of re- department and specialty stores,” said Robert K. tail space on graduated fl oors and a 1,400-square- Futterman, chairman of the fi rm that bears his foot mezzanine, and is being reserved for “a single name, and exclusive retail leasing agent for the operator or multiple categories such as jewelry project. “A department store or specialty store and watches,” Futterman said. “We’re looking at a like Harrods or Harvey Nichols is a possibility very high-end jeweler or several jewelers.” for the lower level or a portion of the ground There’s also a retail atrium with an entrance fl oor.” That space is 53,000 square feet. from 58th Street, which could be used for a hand- Andrew Hinkley, vice president of retail de- bag, shoe and accessories boutique. One level velopment for Elad, estimated that about 25 per- below the atrium will be the Grand Concourse. cent of the 64 retail spaces would be leased to Elad’s renderings depict a specialty store with a luxury fi rms with stores in the vicinity. coffee/espresso bar against one wall, beauty and ac- “There is certainly a smaller branding op- cessories departments and apparel shown around portunity at the Plaza for stores already on Fifth the periphery of the fl oor. About 10,000 square feet Avenue or Madison Avenue or both,” Futterman will become a food hall. said. “Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci and [brands If a single tenant can’t be found, Hinkley said, owned by Compagnie Financière] Richemont “We’d build a retail collection like a department are all logical candidates.” store.” A comparison with Fred Segal with its Retail space at the Plaza does not come The Terrace Room leased spaces was not disputed. “It will look like cheap. Elad is asking $500 to $1,000 per square envisioned as a Barneys New York or Saks Fifth Avenue,” he foot for the Grand Concourse. “We’ve enter- jewelry boutique. said. tained offers north of $1,000 per square foot Fashion in the The 6,000-square-foot Lower Concourse will be on the main fl oor,” said Hinkley. The rates are Grand Concourse. devoted to a fi tness center with a swimming pool; comparable to those in the area. the mezzanine will house a hair salon, antiques The company is projecting $1,500 per square shop and antique book seller. The Grand Ballroom foot in sales as a starting point. on the fi rst fl oor will be pressed into service once Leasing retail space at the Plaza is not again for boldface nuptials. without challenges. Some of the hotel’s pub- Meeting rooms will be on the second fl oor along lic rooms, where stores will be located, don’t with a 7,700-square-foot spa operated by a com- have the frontage and large windows retailers pany based in a French chateau. “They also have are accustomed to and the structure cannot be a vineyard and we’ll be showcasing the wines,” changed under landmark rulings. Hinkley said. Naftali was a target of the ire of both pres- Elad believes the stores at the Plaza will have ervationists and the New York Hotel Trades a built-in client base in the 182 residences — the Council, a union that represented the Plaza’s company said 70 percent have been sold, at $1.3 900 workers, who opposed turning most of the million to more than $29 million — and the 282- hotel into residences and shops. After Mayor room hotel. “We’re repositioning the hotel as a Michael Bloomberg intervened in April 2005, six-diamond property” where a standard suite will Elad agreed to retain more hotel rooms than he cost $800 to $1,000 a night, Naftali said. There will fi rst proposed and said he would leave the Grand also be 152 hotel condominium residences. Ballroom, Palm Court and Oak Bar intact. Across the street from the Plaza, a retail “It was politics,” he said. “It was an election year. The Edwardian Room, whose walls have been phenomenon is unfolding in the form of the Apple Together with the union and the mayor, we created a stripped down to the original golden brown, looks like Computer store, which is drawing heavy traffic. win-win situation. We went through a long process with an elegant salon where there are plenty of intimate Hinkley said Apple “can only help” to lease the Plaza. Landmarks. This is the only hotel in North America seating areas for a salesperson to show a $100,000 bau- Futterman added that a new retail corridor could be with some interior spaces landmarked. Elad supported ble to a customer. The room will have 3,800 square feet forged along Central Park West, from the Shops at Time landmark designation.” on the ground fl oor and another 1,100 square feet on Warner Center to the Plaza and Apple store. But that’s a Futterman contended luxury fi rms would be drawn to a mezzanine. way off. Asked when the next major property on Central the Plaza for the very reason parts of it are landmarked “The Edwardian Room will be one store,” Hinkley Park West could be converted to retail, Futterman said — the historical, not to mention nostalgic, signifi cance. said. “We’ve shown it to three of the best clothiers in the he wouldn’t hazard a guess.

GIVING BACK: As winner of “Project Runway,” HAPPY HALLOWEEN: Parents who ever Jeffrey Sebelia is entitled to a spread in Elle, wondered just how Isaac Mizrahi would dress Fashion Scoops a mentorship with INC International Concept a baby on Halloween now know the answer TAHARI’S FRIENDS: Elie and Rory Tahari Design, a year of representation by Designers — like a cherub. For the Dream Halloween received recognition for their charitable work Management Agency, a 2007 Saturn Sky party on Sunday to help the Children Affected Thursday at the Friends in Deed Fall Benefi t Roadster and $100,000 to start a clothing by AIDS Foundation, Mizrahi donated a Dinner at Balthazar with support from friends line — but he hasn’t decided how much sketch of a one-of-a-kind baby Halloween and customers. Full of fi ghting spirit, Lauren of his prize he is taking. The designer is costume, with lace wings, an optional quiver Bacall showed her backing for the charity, selling the car to an online auction to donate and arrow and powdered hair. In addition to which was founded 15 years ago. “Friends in the proceeds to the Musicians Assistance Mizrahi, designers Deed is the only hands-on organization that Program, a nonprofi t organization that Sebelia such as Lulu helps people who are terminally ill,” Bacall credits with getting him sober fi ve years ago. Guinness, Behnaz preached. “Not enough people support it, but With offers coming at him from all angles, Sarafpour and Bill they should.” Sebelia also is holding off on deciding whether Blass’ Michael Others turning out included the whole to take the yearlong job with Macy’s private Vollbracht created Saks Fifth Avenue crew, from Steve Sadove label. But one thing is certain: He will take the designs for the to Michael Fink; Patrick Robinson of Paco money. “I am going to be patient, the money occasion. It’s not Rabanne, and co-host Mike Nichols. Another will be spent wisely, and I want to really make just the sketches co-host, Anderson Cooper, had to forego dinner, the right decision for Cosa Nostra,” Sebelia that the winners of rushing out at 8:30 p.m. for the live fi lming said via e-mail. He is working on expanding the silent auction of his CNN show. Before leaving, Cooper and his Cosa Nostra brand by adding doors and will own: Rubie’s Rory Tahari enjoyed the tricks of magician Mio. opening an appointment-only boutique. While Costumes will Elie and “And I thought he was entertaining!” squealed he decides what his next step will be, he is realize each outfi t Rory Tahari Tahari, comparing Cooper with the magician — selling “easy items” such as jeans, T-shirts in time for next Isaac Mizrahi’s PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN GRATTAN PHOTO BY with the news anchor drawing the short stick. and simple dresses on his Web site. Halloween. Halloween design. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 11 Obituary WWD.COM Princess Irene Galitzine Dies at 90 MILAN — Princess Irene Galitzine, a Russian émi- gré who set up her own fashion house and rose to in- Princess Irene ternational fame for her palazzo pajamas and other Galitzine at striking designs, died Thursday night at her home in the St. Regis Rome. She was 90. Hotel, Vogue, A spokeswoman said her funeral was Saturday at 1952. a Russian Orthodox church in Rome. She had no chil- dren. Her husband, Silvio Medici, died in 1989. Galitzine belonged to an aristocratic family dating back to the 13th century. Her father, Boris Galitzine, was a member of Tsar Nicholas’ imperial guard and her mother, Nina Larazeff, was an accomplished pia- nist. When the Bolshevik Revolution began, Larazeff and her infant daughter fl ed Russia. They went fi rst to Istanbul, where her mother chose a ship bound for Italy over one headed to the U.S. Galitzine, a striking beauty with wavy auburn hair, began her fashion career in the early Forties by mod- eling and doing publicity work for the Fontana sisters in Rome, her adopted city. A few years later, she set up shop and began designing under her own name. Along with Sorelle Fontana, Emilio Pucci and Fernanda Gattinoni, she was catapulted to marquee de- signer status in the Sixties during the dolce vita years of Italy’s post-war boom. They took advantage of the ex- traordinary Italian heritage of artisanship, particularly in leather and hand knits. At the time, Rome boasted both a glamorous fi lm industry and a couture business rivaling that of Paris. Galitzine dressed Babe Paley, Jacqueline Kennedy, the Niarchos women and Elizabeth Taylor. “It was a crazy period, and the crowd was very in- ternational. One season, we would all be in Capri or Sardinia, the next, Saint Moritz — with trips to New York wedged in between,” Galitzine recalled in a 2000 interview with WWD. “The French were more sophis- ticated, more complicated. The Italians were young and gay. They loved life; they were simpler.” Galitzine had a beautiful apartment in Rome with a huge ter- race overlooking the Spanish Steps. Her early designs were New Look-infl ected evening dresses or chic cocktail dresses evocative of Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” but as the Sixties progressed, Galitzine favored tunics and voluminous tops over slender pants, often in embroidered oriental fabrics beaded at the neck. Her Seventies aesthetic featured bell-bottom trousers, graphic prints and Mod detailing, in- cluding emphatic welt seaming. Her creations appeared on the big screen when she dressed Claudia Cardinale for her role in the “The Pink Panther” and Taylor in “Cleopatra.” Galitzine even had a cameo role as a design- er in the 1975 fi lm “Mahogany” starring Diana Ross. played an active role in the company until her death, resulted — including exaggerated Egyptian eyes — got During the Sixties, the designer came up with what even though she sold the fi rm to a group of investors in him noticed, so Elizabeth Arden brought him to New would later become her fashion trademark, her famous the Nineties. Today, the Galitzine name lives on through York. “Galitzine was a lady loved by the entire world,” palazzo pajamas, wide-legged pants and a tunic or a a series of licensing agreements for products ranging said Manzoni, adding that her smile was unforgettable. jumpsuit made of soft silk that was both elegant and from handbags to porcelain dishes and umbrellas. He helped create a catalogue of the designer’s work for

UNTAIN BY WILLIAM KLEIN/COURTESY OF CONDE NAST ARCHIVE; 1973 PORTRAIT AND 1972 LOOK FROM THE FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE FROM THE FAIRCHILD AND 1972 LOOK 1973 PORTRAIT OF CONDE NAST ARCHIVE; WILLIAM KLEIN/COURTESY BY UNTAIN easy to wear. “It was a perfect way of dressing for our Angela Savarese, Galitzine’s spokeswoman and col- her 90th birthday. lives then,” recalled Galitzine. Diana Vreeland coined laborator for 25 years, said that she was always struck Stefano Dominella, president of fashion association the name Palazzo pants when she fi rst saw them and de- by her employer’s elegance and the grace she showed Alta Roma, recalled Galitzine’s warm sense of hospital- manded they be shot inside an ancient Roman palazzo. people, regardless of their station in life. “She lived life ity, whether that meant bringing out her mother’s fi n- “You could dance easily in them, and all you needed to in a splendid way. She was so altruistic and generous,” est silver and crystal tableware for the simplest meal or wear with them was a pretty jewel,” Galitzine said. Savarese said. telling colorful tales about her life. “I would remember Later in life, the princess staged fashion shows Pablo Manzoni, one of the fi rst makeup artists to be- that a lot of nights we would be eating tartines of caviar in both Saudi Arabia and her native Russia, in re- come world-famous, helped launch his career by work- and drinking vodka and I would stay at her house until 2 sponse to an invitation from Mikhail Gorbachev. In ing on her shows because of the enormous amount of a.m. just to hear all of her stories,” he said. the Seventies, she launched a cosmetics line. She leeway she gave him. The innovative makeup looks that –– Amanda Kaiser and Lorna Koski PORTRAIT BY CLIFFORD COFFIN/COURTESY OF CONDE NAST ARCHIVE; CHARTREUSE DRESS BY HENRY CLARKE/COURTESY OF CONDE NAST ARCHIVE; FO OF CONDE NAST ARCHIVE; HENRY CLARKE/COURTESY DRESS BY CHARTREUSE OF CONDE NAST ARCHIVE; CLIFFORD COFFIN/COURTESY BY PORTRAIT An evening dress in Vogue, 1959; a fringed pants look at the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona, Vogue, 1960; Irene Galitzine, 1973; a draped evening dress from 1972. 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 Retailers 77.12 46.49 Abercrombie Abercrombie & Fitch& Fitch 18.6 78212 75.02 -1.22 33.01 18.05 Aéropostale Aeropostale 19.2 52576 29.62 -0.42 46.80 19.45 American American Eagle Eagle 21.3 123168 45.00 -1.42 44.33 23.05 Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 21.4 74134 41.68 -0.17 26.25 13.05 Bebe Bebe 30.6 37314 24.92 -0.77 1.78 0.68 BlueflyBluefly - 4639 0.91 -0.08 S&P 500 37.84 15.55 Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 371.8 10299 36.97 -0.20 20.65 15.00 Caché Cache 24.6 5898 18.44 -0.05 26.70 18.90 Cato Cato 15.0 10260 23.18 -0.30 29.41 15.28 Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 24.9 18794 28.05 -0.71 15.18 9.69 CharmingCharming Shoppes Shoppes 19.1 36727 14.76 -0.02 49.40 17.26 Chico’s Chico’s FAS FAS 20.1 128900 22.86 -1.41 69.39 37.95 Children’s Children’s Place Place 25.8 30754 67.54 -1.11 36.14 23.89 CVS CVS 19.4 389019 30.69 -0.40 32.46 21.34 Deb Deb Shops Shops 15.4 716 26.56 0.31 33.87 19.32 Dillard’s Dillard’s 14.1 49211 30.53 0.26 19.84 12.10 Dollar Dollar General General 14.4 122892 13.80 0.09 28.09 12.07 Dress Dress Barn Barn 16.8 34613 21.91 -0.18 47.86 22.83 eBay eBay 33.9 1079897 30.49 0.74 30.59 20.77 Family Family Dollar Dollar 22.9 61014 30.01 0.26 45.01 28.78 Federated Federated 15.9 220727 44.32 -0.58 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 28.00 18.74 Foot Foot Locker Locker 15.5 148946 23.00 -1.20 19.98 15.91 Gap Gap 18.2 303911 19.30 -0.55 9.81 6.29 GottschalksGottschalks 34.5 485 8.99 0.18 57.20 25.00 Guess Guess 31.9 19660 54.10 -2.37 1.24 0.25 Harold’sHarold’s Stores Stores - 333 0.54 0.09 16.30 9.43 HotHot Topic Topic 33.9 37260 10.94 0.32 74.98 47.25 J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 16.8 97983 74.86 0.98 71.98 42.78 Kohl’s Kohl’s 26.1 141176 70.85 0.37 29.00 18.81 Limited Limited Brands Brands 15.6 82931 28.59 -0.18 52.21 7.59 MothersMothers Work Work 61.3 7352 48.90 -3.16 22.63 9.41 New New York York & &Co. Co. 19.1 33723 13.00 -0.49 48.16 31.76 Nordstrom Nordstrom 20.8 86042 47.20 0.13 27.99 13.12 Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 11.2 81010 16.23 -1.25 43.49 32.16 Regis Regis 15.8 9106 38.36 0.38 oach Inc.’s lawsuit against Target Corp. protection when exposed to light. According to 18.00 8.99 RetailRetail Ventures Ventures - 8306 16.85 -0.52 Cwas dismissed with prejudice on Friday. the court documents, it is a common practice 31.04 22.12 Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.0 71864 29.77 -0.59 Coach fi led its lawsuit for alleged trademark to submit sunscreen products to independent 20.59 14.10 Saks Saks 24.3 42470 18.48 -0.06 counterfeiting and trademark infringement on labs for testing. 174.99 111.64 Sears Sears 22.6 95720 174.76 2.19 34.44 25.00 Stage Stage Stores Stores 15.0 14906 31.73 1.26 Sept. 29 in Manhattan federal court. According According to a L’Oréal spokeswoman, the 20.69 11.27 Stein Stein Mart Mart 18.2 9824 16.21 -0.49 to court documents, Coach alleged that Target company tested its Anthelios SX against the 21.24 13.34 Syms Syms 37.9 738 20.70 1.01 sold a handbag in a store in Largo, Fla., that competition in an independent, FDA-affili- 31.00 17.30 Talbots Talbots 24.0 110441 28.56 -0.67 was a counterfeit of one of its trademarks. In ated U.S. lab and all the claims made on the 59.76 44.70 Target Target 19.8 242019 58.00 -1.68 the complaint, Coach said the retailer “never product were validated and approved. “We be- 29.55 20.32 TJX TJX Cos. 18.0 136346 29.25 0.21 made an inquiry of Coach concerning the gen- lieve the lawsuit has no merit and we intend 20.78 8.71 United United Retail Retail Group Group 8.5 4378 19.32 -0.45 33.77 13.65 Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 26.4 133038 18.34 -1.21 uineness of any item bearing a Coach trade- to vigorously defend it,” the spokeswoman said. 50.87 42.31 Wal-Mart Wal-Mart 17.6 570740 49.37 0.91 mark.” When the initial lawsuit was filed, Neutrogena asked the court for preliminary 6.83 4.15 WetWet Seal Seal - 27586 6.01 0.08 Target said in a statement it believed the case and permanent injunctions to keep L’Oréal 5.67 2.39 WilsonsWilsons Leather Leather - 1738 2.75 -0.04 was without merit. from distributing the advertising in question 29.95 21.01 Zale Zale 25.6 21884 27.83 -0.66 Iconix Brand Group and IP Holdings fi led a and for it to run corrective ads. Vendors lawsuit against Bongo Apparel Inc. and TKO Tacori Enterprises fi led a lawsuit against 51.96 41.99 Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 22.9 29484 49.94 -1.35 33.26 24.33 Avon Avon 24.6 122882 30.12 0.76 Apparel in Manhattan federal court for alleged Golda Jewelry Co. for alleged trade dress 37.16 19.89 Benetton Benetton 47.8 1080 36.72 -0.18 breach of contract. The complaint stems from and copyright infringement of its Crescent 43.23 32.16 Cherokee Cherokee 17.9 1160 37.49 -0.15 a licensing agreement the two companies had Silhouette ring designs. According to the court 37.40 25.18 Coach Coach 27.2 132759 35.27 -1.22 regarding Bongo jeanswear. According to court documents, Tacori “believes that defendant 57.65 41.00 Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 16.6 8537 55.16 -0.70 documents, Iconix [Golda Jewelry] has 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 15.7 5137 17.94 0.75 claimed that Bongo engaged in the mar- 41.71 29.98 Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 26.7 44586 40.00 0.36 23.84 14.96 Fossil Fossil 23.5 14766 22.21 0.79 Apparel entered into a keting, manufacture, 13.30 6.23 G-IIIG-III 59.3 1074 12.62 -0.29 contract it was unwill- distribution, dupli- 25.00 11.76 Hampshire Hampshire Group Group 9.0 495 13.28 0.55 ing or unable to fulfi ll cation and/or sale of 41.25 31.19 IFF IFF 19.0 17288 41.03 -0.22 and then, following its rings with designs 20.38 14.51 Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 25.5 3146 19.29 0.73 wrongful termination that are confusingly 36.10 26.71 Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 19.5 33196 32.91 -0.26 of the licensing agree- similar to the Tacori 34.57 21.83 Kellwood Kellwood 31.8 10855 30.20 -0.55 29.60 21.75 Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 18.6 3175 25.26 -1.34 ment for women’s look.” Tacori asked 41.71 33.40 Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 15.5 31922 40.96 0.39 jeanswear, continued to sell the licensed items the court for preliminary and permanent in- 8.79 4.80 MossimoMossimo 59.9 849 8.40 -0.05 unlawfully. In its court fi lings, Iconix asked the junctions against Golda Jewelry and for un- 26.89 16.95 Movado Movado 21.2 4937 25.82 -0.68 court to award $10 million in unpaid royalties specifi ed fi nancial damages. Representatives 91.54 75.52 Nike Nike 17.2 69095 88.60 -1.00 plus statutory damages. for Gold Jewelry could not be reached for 57.58 34.34 Oxford Oxford 18.1 12866 51.89 2.66 According to Bongo, the lawsuit was fi led comment. 24.25 8.69 PerfumaniaPerfumania 2.9 6812 14.25 -0.04 35.61 18.50 Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 16.9 5789 35.28 1.16 in response to a case it fi led in state supreme Columbia Sportswear Co. announced last 47.12 27.00 Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 17.0 27719 46.23 -0.22 court in July against Iconix Brand Group and IP week that customs offi cials in Greece seized 70.30 45.65 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 21.1 29492 67.47 -1.69 Holdings for alleged fraudulent representation, 19,200 pairs of counterfeit Columbia shoes. The 15.06 10.63 Quiksilver Quiksilver 27.6 53584 13.78 0.03 broken promises, unfair competition, breach of shoes were manufactured in China and were on 3.95 0.76 RevlonRevlon - 62887 1.34 -0.03 contract and other claims. According to those their way to an importer in Greece, according 43.17 16.33 Steve Steve Madden Madden 23.6 11496 40.92 -1.06 court documents, Bongo Apparel alleged that to a company statement. “The assistance of cus- 2.30 0.86 TarrantTarrant 27.2 3506 1.35 -0.09 24.36 11.11 True True Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 22.0 27865 21.85 -0.40 prior to establishing the license agreement, toms offi cial around the world has been instru- 78.57 50.44 VF VF Corp. Corp. 15.7 36896 75.00 -0.68 Iconix omitted key information and provided mental in identifying counterfeit shipments as 28.22 15.75 Warnaco Warnaco 30.3 21532 20.68 0.33 false material facts. they cross borders,” Tim Boyle, president and The complaint also alleged that Iconix chief executive offi cer of the company, said in “systematically cannibalized” its franchised a statement. Columbia said it increased the sei- Stock Market Index Weekly % Changes brand by fi ring employees, failing to support zure of counterfeit goods by almost 10 times the (ending Oct. 20) the franchise and unfairly competing directly amount captured in 2003. with Bongo Apparel. Bongo apparel alleged The American Apparel and Footwear Gainers Close Change that it started to lose sales after Iconix li- Association urged its members to fi ght back against counterfeiters last week. In a state- Harold’s Stores 0.54 20.00 censed its Candie’s and Rampage brands to stores that also sold the Bongo line. Bongo ment, association president and ceo Kevin Composite Retailers Vendors Oxford 51.89 5.40 1189.85 1178.05 1220.48 asked the court for over $200 million in dam- Burke said companies need to protect them- Syms 20.70 5.13 ages for 14 counts against Iconix. Both law- selves. “Product liability, lost market share, Elizabeth Arden 17.94 4.36 suits are still pending. brand degradation and devaluation are all very Neutrogena Corp. and Johnson & Johnson real consequences of brand counterfeiting,” he Hampshire Group 13.28 4.32 Consumer Cos. Inc. fi led a lawsuit against said. Apparel and footwear companies need to L’Oréal alleging false advertising and unfair develop strong internal programs, the state- Decliners Close Change competition. The complaint was fi led over pro- ment said. The AAFA will co-sponsor a con- 2.13 3.58 -6.18 Bluefly 0.91 -7.96 motional materials for a sunscreen moistur- ference on the issue with the Sporting Goods izer called Anthelios SX, which is sold under Manufacturers Association, in association with Pacific Sunwear 16.23 -7.15 L’Oréal’s La Roche-Posay brand. Neutrogena the Fashion Institute of Technology, on Nov. 14. Tarrant 1.35 -6.25 alleged the materials falsely understat- The keynote address will be given by Shane Index base of 1000 is keyed to Urban Outfitters 18.34 -6.19 ed the effi cacy of its Helioplex and Active Berry, senior director of brand protection at closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. Photobarrier Complex sunscreen products to Abercrombie & Fitch. Mothers Work 48.90 -6.07 protect against UVA rays and to sustain that — Liza Casabona WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 13 WWD.COM Retail Market Feels Fast Fashion Effect

By Jeanine Poggi European fashion chains, will ing from $20 to $250. The com- Topshop, owned by the stores in the U.K. be landing in the U.S. over the pany, which already has two Arcadia Group, will be opening “In our opinion it is evident s fast fashion retailers ex- next 12 months. Mango targets stores on the West Coast, plans its fi rst store in New York City that it is not enough to sell Apand, they are putting great- merchandise at inexpensive er competitive pressure on ap- prices. The merchandise must parel retailers such as Old Navy In our opinion it is evident that it is not enough to sell be compelling, on trend, of and Aéropostale, according to good quality and frequent ship- a recent report from Coleman “merchandise at inexpensive prices. The merchandise must be ments,” Hali said. Research Group. She zeroed in on Express, Jane Hali, vice president compelling, on trend, of good quality and frequent shipments. Old Navy, Arden B, Gap, and director of retail consult- Aéropostale and New York & ing at Coleman, also said this — Jane Hali, Coleman” Company as retailers that need segment of the market, which to step up their merchandising serves the price-sensitive efforts in order to compete with shopper, is under pressure by the 18- to 35-year-old demo- on opening its U.S. fl agship in in the fall of 2007. The compa- these low-cost, fashion-forward mass retailers such as Target graphic with price points rang- SoHo in the fall of 2007. ny currently operates over 300 retailers. Corp. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. — companies that are push- ing trendier apparel at lower price points. “Fast food at inexpensive prices was the new mode for restaurants in the Seventies, today it is fast fashion at inex- pensive prices that has created a whole new genre of retail,” Hali said in the report.

Old Navy is one retailer feeling pressure from stores such as H&M.

By incorporating low-cost fashion and continuous new- ness into their merchandise mix, stores such as Forever 21 and H&M, as well as Target, Wal-Mart and Kohl’s, have be- come superior competitors. “In my opinion, Old Navy’s business started to decline when H&M increased their number of stores,” Hali said. “Old Navy began by selling basics at low prices, while H&M is selling fashion at low prices.” Wal-Mart, Target and Kohl’s have been serious about tak- ing their merchandise into new and trendier markets, with exclusive products and brand launches. Target has been suc- cessfully promoting their Isaac Mizrahi clothing and accesso- ries line, while Kohl’s snagged an exclusive deal with the teen and contemporary Candies brand. “Through fi erce competition in the European ‘value’ market, retailers have perfected the art of cheap private label or ex- clusive brand lines,” Hali said. “These stores are changing the way Americans think about and shop for clothes.” Next year, American shop- pers will have more choic- es. Mango and Topshop, two 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 WWD.COM Be a Sport Talking Kors By Marcy Medina NEW YORK — Upbeat and sporty. BEVERLY HILLS — There was plenty Michael Kors would talk about at a lunch in his honor That’s the direction Nautica is here — and some things he wouldn’t. going for spring, which the label’s One of the latter was the number of stores in design team illustrated last week California he has in the works, although he said there are more planned. “Leases are still being at a small luncheon presentation. signed, so I can’t say where,” he said at the lunch Staying true to its classic last Tuesday, which was hosted by W magazine and Irena Medavoy at her Beverly Park home. American sportswear roots, the The designer, en route to a holiday in Cabo collection included several athletic- San Lucas, was in town for a personal appear- ance at the new Nordstrom in Westfi eld Topanga inspired windbreakers, a hooded mall. As a gaggle of Kors-clad women, including shrunken toggle jacket, slim-fi tting Anjelica Huston, Jamie Tisch, Crystal Lourd, trenchcoats and plenty of great Kelly Katz, Wendy and Amanda Goldberg, Lynda Irena Resnick, Cheryl Saban and Lyn Lear gathered Medavoy swimwear — all, of course, with a on the patio to greet him, Medavoy mused of in Michael nautical infl uence. her mansion, “It does well with fashion, Kors. doesn’t it? I love to host these events.” After the lobster salads, Kors stood up to narrate a presentation of resort, an homage to “the Bouviers in Bombay.” As models paraded out in zebra caftans and pale gold brocade dresses, Kors of- fered witticisms and suggestions on how to wear each ensemble. “Here’s a sexy dress women can eat in,” he said of an Empire-waisted number. “Yes, you can have that breadstick!” Of an- other forgiving gown, he quipped, “With Heidi Klum popping out babies like she is, I have to remember to leave room.” After a tête-à-tête with Huston, Kors said, “The cool thing about this event is I get to meet the customer, and she can hear where I’m coming from, because I think some- times there’s a disconnect, you know?” Michael Kors But thanks to “Project Runway,” at with Anjelica least one demographic has caught on to Huston in Kors: “I now have legions of fans in the Michael Kors.

single digits. Eight-year-olds love me.” SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY FIT Couture Council Honors Ralph Rucci NEW YORK — For Ralph Rucci, a designer who has spent the past 25 years unceremoniously honing his craft, it was fi tting that scores of his admirers were on hand Thursday when he received the fi rst Artistry of Fashion Award from The Museum at FIT’s Couture Council. James Galanos, Ron Frasch, Linda Fargo, Joan Kaner and John Pomerantz Ralph Rucci with Joyce Brown and were among the industry Valerie Steele. insiders at a luncheon honoring Rucci at Brasserie 8 1/2. Aside from the mannequins Fargo styled with pieces from the designer’s fall collection, several guests including luncheon chair Charlotte Moss, Amy Fine Collins and Kaner wore some of Rucci’s creations. As guests found their seats, The Museum at FIT’s director, Valerie Steele, said, “The dresses look so wonderful — it’s really like a fashion show.” In 2002, Rucci became the fi rst American designer since Mainbocher to be invited by Paris’ Chambre Syndicale to show as part of the haute couture. But during her remarks, Steele noted that Rucci was being honored for his extensive body of work, not for that European honor. To that end, The Museum at FIT will stage “Ralph Rucci: The Art of Weightlessness” from Jan. 13 to April 14. Clearly humbled by the attention, Rucci singled out about a dozen employees and supporters by name. As for his outlook, he said: “What I do has to do with the evolution of the woman herself and her spirit. It doesn’t have anything to do with trend.” He added, “I hope we can always create things that allow you to suspend your vision of fashion.” Afterward, Kaner recalled how a decade ago she did everything she could to get people to look at Rucci’s work. Despite their resistance to seeing a new designer, “once they did come and saw the clothes, they were very impressed,” she said. “This is not a job for him. It is his life’s work.” Galanos, who became friends with Rucci after a chance meeting at Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills, said, “He makes the most beautiful clothes in the world. He’s an artist — he’s not just a fashion designer.” — Rosemary Feitelberg PHOTOS BY PAVEL ANTONOV PAVEL PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 15 WWD.COM Donatella Looks to Expand in China By Lisa Movius and and distribution staff. In addition Di Risio is confi dent Versace will Constance Haisma-Kwok to its fully owned shops, Versace do well. “We are confi dent that distributes its Jeans Couture line the return on our investment will through a local franchisee. be shorter rather than longer. For SHANGHAI — “Just coming and “There is not a big difference example, in the last two years our seeing everything was the best between the different Chinese greater China sales doubled,” he part, getting to see the cities cities in terms of business. Maybe said. “Currently, all of Asia rep- and how they are so ancient but a year ago there was a difference, resents 23 percent of our sales. also very modern, so there is a but we think that the difference China is still small because we contrast,” remarked Donatella is disappearing, and the market only have fi ve stores, but in 2007 Versace regarding her inaugural is unifying,” Di Risio observed. it will grow.” trip to China this week. “People A sixth location launched last Versace added that she looks here are very curious, and want month at the Chengdu Depart- forward to establishing a stron- to see you, touch you. They don’t ment Store in mainland China’s ger dialogue with Chinese con- trust something or someone until Sichuan Province. “We will open sumers, but that doing so would they’ve talked to you, but once in many cities in China, Chengdu be a challenge. “The hardest part you’ve established that personal is just the fi rst,” said Di Risio, is making people come close to contact, they are very warm.” adding most of the new locations fashion. Versace has a history of Versace was in Shanghai for are still under discussion. Next being bright, and our new line is two days and in Greater China up is a location in Taiwan, at very different from what people for a total of six, holding par- Donatella Versace in the Forbidden City in Beijing. Taipei 101, currently the world’s are used to.” ties and press conferences at tallest building, opening in The company’s existing stores’ each stop. The latter were held Fan Bingbing, Nineties folk the trip was that the Chinese are December. The group has also re- turnover is about 60 percent ac- to reveal plans for an ambitious singer Ai Jing and contemporary actually very fashionable, be- served a space in Beijing’s Four cessories, compared with 50 per- expansion of Versace’s China artist Zheng Fangzhi. They were cause in Europe the Chinese you Seasons Department Store, un- cent globally, said Di Risio. “I ex- presence, investing 10 million joined by Hong Huang, publisher see are not like this. The girls related to the hotel group, which pect China will edge more toward euros, or $12.5 million, to grow of the Chinese editions of Time in China are very engaged and will open in August 2007. A space the norm.” from fi ve stores to 14 by the end Out; Yabshi Pan Rinzinwangmo, very lively,” said Versace. “The at Hong Kong’s Pacifi c Place is Di Risio described Versace’s of 2007. “We’re expanding now daughter of Tibet’s 10th Panchen Shanghainese are very artistic in also confi rmed for next year. core clients as “young, fashion- because we’re ready to invest Lama, and models Lu Yan and their style and attitude. Beijing is “Hong Kong will get one more able, independent and working” here now, because the fi gures Ma Yanli. a cultural but old city, Shanghai store, and Beijing two more by and denied that China risks a tell us the market is now ready.” The following day, Versace is very open, while Hong Kong 2008 or 2007,” Di Risio continued. glut of luxury fashion. “It’s a free For the designer, the visit was proceeded to Shanghai to at- has both history and fashion.” “Shanghai has several locations market,” he claimed, “the prob- as much a personal as a commer- tend an exclusive dinner at the Versace opened its fi rst China that mean luxury. Plaza 66 is a lem is to make the right prod- cial exploration of the Middle Shanghai home of Pearl Lam, a store in 1994, but has maintained place with many of the luxury uct and offer the correct thing Kingdom. “I came because I’d Hong Kong socialite and owner a low profi le until now, with only brands, and we are sure another the clients want. Competition never been before, and I’ve al- of the Contrasts design gallery, three units in Hong Kong, one in location will eventually be reno- stimulates us all.…There is a big ways been curious about China,” which has locations in Hong Kong, Shanghai’s Plaza 66 and one in vated into its level.” market in China, and it is very she said. “It has a fantastic cul- Shanghai, Beijing and Hangzhou. Beijing’s Palace Hotel. Versace And while some have ques- important to us. China has the ture, and the economic boom Co-hosted by Vogue China editor opened a support offi ce in Beijing tioned how much business is potential to become our number- has resulted in amazing energy in chief Angelica Cheung, guests three or four years ago, and it being generated by designer three global market, after Japan and creativity. You see it in the included models, Shanghai soccer currently employs four marketing stores in China at the moment, and the U.S.” emerging Chinese young art- star Huai Xie, several directors of ists. While some are obviously Vogue’s various Asian editions, inspired by others, some are Shanghai socialite Nora Sun and truly original. There is a distinct Taiwanese socialites Landy Lin Chinese sense of modernity, dif- and Tiffany Yang. ferent from Western modernity.” A reception in Hong Kong on Versace, Giancarlo Di Risio, Oct. 19 took place at The Box, a chief executive offi cer of Gianni bar and restaurant overlooking Versace SpA and their staff Victoria Harbor due to open next arrived on Oct. 15 in Beijing, week. Local movie stars includ- where they visited landmarks ing Carina Lau, currently facing a like Tiananmen Square, the For- consumer lawsuit in the mainland bidden City and the Temple of for her promotion of now-banned Heaven. Italian ambassador to SK-II cosmetics, Josie Ho and China Gabriele Menegatti threw Conroy Chan attended, along with a party for Versace at his offi cial television personality Kathy Chow residence on Oct. 16. Celebrity and several business leaders. guests included Chinese actress “My greatest surprise from Hermès to Buy Vaucher Stake By Robert Murphy PARIS — Hermès, the French luxury firm, said it would buy 25 percent of high-end Swiss movements maker Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier for 25 million Swiss francs, or $19.7 mil- lion at current exchange. The purchase will be conducted via two capital increases, according to Guillaume de Seynes, Hermès’ assistant managing director and president of the watch division. Seynes said the deal buoys Hermès’ position in the fast- growing mechanical segment while opening the door for the company to increase the number of expensive complicated me- chanical watches it sells. Hermès introduced its fi rst mechanical watch with a Vaucher movement — Dressage — in 2003. The watch can cost as much as 25,000 euros, or $31,275. An introductory Hermès quartz watch costs about 1,200 euros, or $1,500. “The high-end mechanical segment has been growing fast industry-wide,” said Seynes. He said expensive mechanical watches make up about 5 per- cent of Hermès’ total watch sales, which grew 4 percent to 104 million euros, or $130.1 million, in 2005. Vaucher, which is based in Fleurier, Switzerland, is known for its high-precision movements that are used by the likes of Tiffany and Corum. It is owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation, which also holds, with Michel Parmigiani, the Parmigiani Fleurier luxury watch brand. Seynes said Vaucher would continue to work with all of its existing clients. The deal does not bring Hermès into Parmigiani’s capital structure. 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 WWD.COM Designers Take a Bow at Cooper-Hewitt Samuel Par Skin Care By Rosemary Feitelberg nomical Aeron chair, Paolo Soleri’s prototype town Arcosanti, Maria Cornejo’s sculptural clothes, Back With Fresh Look NEW YORK — Guests attending the National Design Martha Schwartz’s lush landscape design in city Awards at the Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum mere- settings and interior designer Michael Gabellini’s By Rachel Brown ly had to look up at the chandeliers made of Slinkys infl uence on Top of the Rock were among the to get a sense of where design is heading. works of this year’s winners that were singled out. hen Parisian skin care brand Samuel Par was introduced Whether using everyday objects in an offbeat way, Isaac Mizrahi turned up at the Target-backed Wto the market 20 years ago, its aromatherapy approach blending high and low levels of culture or execut- event to hand over the fi rst People’s Choice Design was on the cutting edge of the industry. A lot has changed since ing experimental urban planning, the idea of using award to Marianne Cusato, the creator of the then, and Samuel Par has, too. design to dress up people’s lives purely for a quick Katrina Cottages, quaint affordable housing for The brand, developed by Parlabo Laboratories, has been re- smile or for more practical reasons was celebrated some displaced by Hurricane Katrina. The token invented with a new name — Sampar — and an updated focus on Wednesday night. The Museum of Modern Art’s celebrity quota was met by Robert Downey Jr., who on nanotechnology and combating the effects of urban pollu- Paola Antonelli, this year’s Design Mind award win- awarded his friend and Miami-based retailer Craig tion. ner, discussed the need to make design a larger part Robins with the Design Patron Award, and Spike “It was a natural evolution for me,” said Sampar creator of the public’s consciousness — something that eas- Lee, who honored Nike with the corporate achieve- Patrick Sounigo. (Samuel is Patrick’s middle name, and Par is ily could be furthered by clueing in policy makers to ment award but still managed to praise himself. short for Paris.) “Samuel Par was a phytoaromatic line, but now, design and encouraging newspapers to hire design The evening’s host, Yves Béhar, founder of in addition, we have Fuseproject, had sounder things to say. “In order high tech. It is more to be relevant in what we do, we can’t just be part like a medical line.” of change — we need to be ahead of it.” The line is roll- After accepting the Communications Design Award ing out this month for his fi rm 2x4, which he started with Susan Sellers to 100 spas and sa- and Georgie Stout, Michael Rock also had a message lons, an introduction for the crowd. On behalf of the trio, which lists Prada, that began with an Rem Koolhaas and Richard Gluckman among its col- exclusive launch at laborators, Rock said: “We started our business on the Fred Segal for five premise that words can mean something. That’s some- days ending Oct. 1. Sampar items. thing that’s important now more than ever.” Industry sources es- Cornejo picked up her prize from Diane von timate the Sampar Furstenberg and bested Thom Browne and Peter collection could gar- Som in doing so. As incoming president of the ner at least $2 mil- Council of Fashion Designers of America, von lion in fi rst-year re- BEAUTY BEAT Furstenberg said: “Fashion gets all kind of raps these tail sales. days. Some people say it’s only about marketing. The What took Sounigo so long to transform Samuel Par? For a truth is, the winner of this award is all about excel- time, he concedes the brand “was a dancer,” meaning it was lency and substance and today she has proved that.” fl oating around unattended. Sounigo was busy selling another Cornejo, the designer behind the Zero label, brand called La Formule, currently made and distributed by was clearly humbled by her co-winners. “I really Paris-based Dexi International. feel like a kid at school.” About two years ago, Sounigo turned his attention to Sampar, Thom Maria Perhaps the most insightful words, if not initially bringing a 16-product facial line to the U.S. market last Browne Cornejo pragmatic, were delivered posthumously by Bill year after experiencing rapid growth in Europe. He said the Stumpf, who was featured in a video. The designer brand was nearly tripling international sales every six months. died last month. “I don’t dwell too much on what The body and facial products, which are $32 to $90, use a critics. So that “we might be able to walk through life is. I spend much more of my time in the what isn’t combination of shea butter, mint leaf, plant sugar and lactate as if we were watching a movie” — even walking into — the thing you’re looking for that isn’t.” extracts that Sounigo dubs an “urban active complex” to fend the occasional lamppost because we are so interest- To get there, the industrial designer often start- off pollutants. A cleanser, serum and spot lightener from the fa- ed in how beautiful a traffi c light can be, she said. ed with himself. “I know this sounds terribly self- cial line’s City of Light range employ nanotechnology capsules In its seventh year, the NDA has become the serving, but I design for myself. Someone once told designed to help ingredients penetrate deep into the skin. design’s industry Oscar Night of sorts, a chance to me to design for somebody you love,” he said in the A holdover from Samuel Par is a corrective pen, now called toast groundbreaking architects and designers in a video. “I can’t tell you when you sit in that chair if the Sampar Prodigal Pen, which targets blemishes and fea- variety of disciplines. The late Bill Stumpf ’s ergo- your butt feels good, but I know when mine does.” tures eight essential oils. The pen is an unexpected top seller for Sounigo. Retailer Michele Berglund unloads about 100 pens per month for $16 to $17 out of her Redding, Calif., shop, called Aesthetics by Michele. Berglund, who was not a fan of Samuel Par’s former blue LIM Gives L&T’s Olexa Her Night to Shine and beige packaging, is thrilled with Sampar’s feminine pink and white. “Most people don’t always have room to stick all NEW YORK — LaVelle Olexa may be shy and soft-spoken, but their stuff underneath the counters,” she mused. “You want to her usual grace and charm held up in the company of 250 have something that aesthetically looks good.” friends, family and colleagues Thursday night at the Harmonie Club, where the Laboratory Institute of Merchandising, the College for the Business of Fashion, honored her by announc- ing a scholarship fund had been established in her name. “God, I’m nervous, and that doesn’t happen to me that Firmenich Annual Sales Rise 13.5% often,” admitted Olexa, senior vice president of advertising, PARIS — Swiss fragrance and fl avors supplier Firmenich’s sales promotion and public relations at Lord & Taylor. “I came sales rose 13.5 percent, to 2.3 billion Swiss francs, or $1.82 bil- with notes prepared because I thought this was going to be lion at average exchange, for the fi scal year ended in June. a roast.” There were several laughs, though the event was a In its annual report, the privately held company said its fra- tribute that included a video retrospective of her life, with grance division “posted dynamic sales growth” and its home photos of her as a model on the runway, as a fi nalist in the care and body care businesses had double-digit increases. Miss Universe contest, at her wedding to Kenneth Greenfi eld “Fine fragrance sales continued to rise, in a market that either and with some of her friends, including the late Oleg Cassini. stagnated or declined,” the Geneva fi rm said in the report. The party raised $80,000 for the school, which, according to By region, sales growth was strongest in North America and LIM’s president Elizabeth S. Marcuse, has an over 90 percent in emerging markets, including Asia Pacifi c, Eastern Europe job placement rate of gradu- and the Middle East. Latin America and Western Europe post- ating students. LaVelle ed positive but slower growth on the back of very strong perfor- After taking a summer job Olexa mances last year, the fi rm said. at Neiman Marcus and meet- and her In its past fi scal year, Firmenich added fi ve fragrance mol- ing the legendary Stanley husband, ecules to its portfolio. The company said its natural ingredients Marcus, Olexa knew fashion Kenneth unit has used advanced technology to explore nature in a sus- retailing was her calling. “I Greenfi eld. tainable way and has developed a new methodology to measure fell in love with a business how well fragrances diffuse. that provided me with a world Firmenich also said that Pierre-Yves Firmenich had retired that was perfect for me and I knew it right away. My wish is that from the board of Firmenich International SA. The group’s they [LIM students] fi nd a position as rewarding and fulfi lling as the chief executive offi cer from 1989 until 2002 had spent 36 years one I have enjoyed.” Olexa is on LIM’s industry advisory board. with the company. She once held executive fashion posts at The Denver, May Heinz Imhof, who joined the board in February 2003, has D&F and Woodward & Lothrop. In 1989, she became Lord & also stepped down, for personal reasons. Taylor’s senior vice president of fashion merchandising, and last “Firmenich regrets his premature departure and will miss March took her current position. the precious experience he brought of international business Among those in the Harmonie Club crowd was Kathryn Crosby, and business strategy,” the company said in a statement. Shannon wife of the late Bing Crosby. She sang White Christmas at the Last week, Yves Boisdron and Vernon Sankey were appoint- Olexa, unveiling of Lord & Taylor’s holiday windows last year. Also on ed to the board. Boisdron, 62, is a French engineer who has Jodie Baity hand were designers Yeohlee and Joanna Mastroianni, Marianne spent the last 25 years with specialty chemicals group Rhodia. and David Cassini and artist Chakaia Booker, who creates sculptures from Sankey, 57, is a British national who spent most of his career at Greenfi eld. old tires and has been featured in L&T windows. Reckitt & Colman until its merger with Benckiser in 1999. — David Moin and R.F. — Ellen Groves OLEXA PHOTOS BY ZACK SECKLER; NDA PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE ZACK SECKLER; NDA PHOTOS BY OLEXA PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 17

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Better Wmn’s Sportswear Business For Sale. Well est’d NYC base business w/large existing customer base & exp’d. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. sales force. Pls call: 646-752-8727 No Lot Too Big or Too Small. EVP/Director of Merchandising Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 Excellent Opportunity Well established, 25 year plus fast paced junior/contemporary fashion accessory company seeks aggressive, experienced, take charge executive possessing excellent skills managing creative and sales personnel. Must be able to identify trends, and key items. The successful candidate must have the Administrative/Sales ability to interpret those trends into saleable product DESIGNS BY FMC assortments for various tiers of retail accounts. A leading Sterling Silver jewelry co. seeks indiv w/ at least 3+ yrs experi- ence in the fashion industries to work RESPONSIBILITIES INCLUDE: in the NYC showroom & assist VP of • Manage design team and design timeline. Sales and Marketing. Responsibilities include working on special projects, • Create focus for trends, key items, and retailer and co-managing major accounts and the showroom presentations. merchandising of new and existing product. Salary commensurate with • Develop along with the design and sales team, retailer experience, benefits included. specific assortments by product category. 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. Please forward salary requirement to [email protected] • Present trends and major programs to key retail accounts High ceilings - Excellent Condition along with sales executives. Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 Admin Since 1967 Search www.manhattanrealty.com W-I-N-S-T-O-N Travel a must, Europe & Domestic. Retail experience a plus. Search For Space In Garment Center Minimum 3 years of experience in the accessory area preferred. Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee APPAREL STAFFING www.midcomre.com DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Full compensation pckg includes salary (commensurate Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 with experience), bonus, 401K, & health benefits. Showrooms & Lofts CHARLIE LAPSON GROUP BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS BRAND MANAGER HANDBAG AND ACCESSORIES Please email: [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Are you a seasoned Brand Manager ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 with a flair for creative and innovative ASSOCIATE DESIGNER SOHO: 413 WEST BROADWAY ways to market an exciting product? LOS ANGELES BASED 2,200 SF. Full Floor. Betw Prince & The Colibri Group is looking for a dy- THE CANDIDATE FOR THIS EXCITING POSITION WILL WORK Spring. Call Jason Kling: 212-880-0431. namic Brand manager for our Precious HELMSLEY-SPEAR, Inc. Ladies Jewelry line to bring a new vision DIRECTLY WITH THE HEAD OF THE COMPANY, CREATING to the line and create brand objectives THE KEY ACCESSORIES THAT DAZZLE CELEBRITIES ON THE and strategies that will improve brand quality and positive brand associations. RED CARPETS AND ARE FEATURED IN FASHION MAGAZINES A global manufacturer of fashion accessories, legwear, This Brand Manager will define the INTERNATIONALLY. YOU WILL ASSIST WITH ALL ASPECTS OF brand DNA, provide direction as it re- footwear, rainwear, sleepwear, home fashion & novelty lates to distribution channel, product DESIGN, SKETCHING, SOURCING, RESEARCH AND SAMPLE currently has career opportunities available in the design and marketing materials to DEVELOPMENT. YOU WILL INTERACT WITH VENDORS IN following categories: 1359 Broadway maximize growth. Requirements: BA/BS ASIA AND TANNERIES IN ITALY. MUST BE COMPUTER SAVVY Available Showroom to Share in marketing or related field. 3-5 years experience in the jewelry industry and AND ABLE TO COMMUNICATE WITH OVERSEAS OFFICES SALES • PRODUCTION • DESIGN Call Kim: 212-330-7506 knowledge of precious jewelry preferred. VIA EMAIL DAILY. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO TRAVEL TO ASIA, Please submit your resume and salary GRAPHIC DESIGN Top Lingerie Building requirements to: EUROPE AND SEVERAL US CITIES DURING THE YEAR. MUST 2 Showroom / Office Space. Beautiful, The Colibri Group, 100 Niantic Avenue HAVE A DESIGN DEGREE AND MINIMUM 2 + YEARS OF Capelli New York, is dedicated to finding highly motivated airy, sun-filled w/ windows. $850-$900. Providence, RI 02907 INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE WITH ACCESSORIES. PLEASE EMAIL & visionary people. We need talented people who love fashion 9 x 8 & 12 x 7 sq ft. Call (212) 683-7845. Fax: (401) 946-0390 to join our expanding team. Experience is not always necessary, E-mail: [email protected] YOUR RESUME AND SALARY HISTORY TO [email protected] INCLUDE JOB CODE #1068 but enthusiasm, dedication and good references are. BUYER-4+ yrs exp purchasing labels/ hangtags for a WW importer/get labels Email w/salary reqs: [email protected] to factories/know label mfrs. $$OPEN Designer Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Division Head www.capellinewyork.com Children’s Wear Fashion Pet Accessories Inc. Showroom & Office Sublet Rapidly growing girls dress importer Fashion Pet, Inc., the largest provider Graphic Artist to $60K Current exp in 37th & 7th Ave. 3000 Sq. Ft. Showroom & seeks a creative professional to design of Pet Apparel in the USA, is looking PLANNER...... $70-90K Office - Fully Built. Rent below current for our sportswear and dress divisions. for an entrepreneurial individual to girls Jr. driven. Able to create denim tiffs/stripes/print repeats. Strikeoffs. Sales Analysis /Replenishment market price. Call 646-752-8727 This individual should possess a manage this rapidly growing category. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 strong sense of new and upcoming Candidates should have minimum of 5 Illustrator, Photoshop, MAC. Full-time perm pos. Email [email protected] [email protected] BUYERS trends and have a good knowledge of years exp managing fashion support www.srisearch.com the market. Excellent track record and staff, designers & sales personnel, and FOOTWEAR & APPAREL possess a thorough understanding of Fast growing premier urban fashion references are mandatory. Submit resume in confidence to fashion, apparel construction and cost- GRAPHIC DESIGNER Product Coordinator retailer located in Pennsylvania is ing. Previous travel to Asia a big plus. seeking exp’d. Buyers to manage its [email protected] NYC fashion company seeks creative Rapidly growing NJ based importer www.kahnlucas.com Must be motivated, detail oriented, self-starter with apparel experience for selling mass market chains seeks expanding business. E-mail to: comfortable making key account sales [email protected] CAD & graphic design position. Must Product Coordinator for Crafts Marketing presentations, and possess an extreme be proficient in Photoshop & Department. Our line includes Ribbon, desire to succeed. Reports directly to Illustrator. Experience in Young Men’s Beads, Trims, and Embellishments. the President. Excellent salary and outerwear, knits & wovens a+. Responsibilities include product costing Chargeback/Specialist benefits. Located in Bloomfield, NJ. Please e-mail resume to: & specs, packaging & product approvals, BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Est’d Importer seeks chargeback DESIGNERS Please E-mail resume & salary history to: communication with overseas suppliers. [email protected] [email protected] A high-end contemporary handbag brand specialist w/ min 3 yrs exp in Apparel NEEDED Candidate must have strong EXCEL looking to build a leading brand of ONLY to join our fast paced team. skills, be detail oriented & highly Must have strong computer/ communi- Baby Phat all sizes 0-16 Human Rights organized. Excellent salary/benefits. quality handbags with the right financial Email: [email protected] Executive Assistant partner. The two co-owners bring over cations skills and be aggressive in Send resume/salary requirements to: pursuing customer deductions. Re- Seeking detail oriented multi-tasker with Compliance Manager 30 years of combined experience and strong analytical/computer skills and a [email protected] prove success in the fashion industry. sponsibilities: Investigation/resolution MAX LEATHER GROUP/ of C/B, issuing & follow-up of RA’s, jewelry background for a fast-paced envi- We are looking to secure financing ronment. Sal: $40,000 Fax: 212-704-0738 CIPRIANI ACCESSORIES with either an emerging fashion house POD’s, posting of C/R, cust service Designer wanted by A.R.I. NY NY . calls. Good benefits. Fax: 212-695-3847 Strong knowledge of textiles and Nassau County/ or investment company. We are prepared Grader Marker Manager $70-80K. Far Rockaway Location Max Leather Product Devel Mgrs $120K to present you with a business plan or email: [email protected] garment & MS in Design + 2yr exp. Current exp in womenswear. Supervise 1) Kids Licensed Bedding/Room Decor Analyze fashion trends/market; re- Group/Cipriani Accessories, a leading along with samples of our collection. three people on Gerber. Midtown. designer belt, small leather goods & 2) Infant Toddler Bedding/ Room Decor Please contact Maria Decker at: search fabrics/materials; dvlp styles/ Email [email protected] AGCY colors/prints; supervise testing/ care cold weather accessories co seeks a Graphic Designers Tel: (201) 755-2991 or Human Rights Compliance Mgr to join E-mail: [email protected] labels; create line sheets w. Graphic Artist $BOE. Current exp in 3) $45-$60K Licensed/Generic Bedding COSTING ENGINEER Illustrator/ Photoshop. urban 7-14 girls. Full time perm our Nassau County/Far Rockaway Kids/Tween/Teen distribution center. Our prestigious Leading manufacturer of girl’s clothing Resume: [email protected] position. Midtown growing kidswear Call Laurie 212-947-3399 seeks costing engineer. Candidate company. Email [email protected] designer brands incl Calvin Klein, DESIGN Nine West, Guess, Michael Kors, Sean Email [email protected] must be able to develop 1st specs, KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS calculate consumption and have extensive John and Anne Klein. Successful knowl. of fit, construction, patternmaking Handbag Designer candidate will be resp for the admin of Established NYC fashion handbag co. GRAPHIC ARTIST approved factories that respect the and costing. Please send resume to: seeks creative individual to be respon- Luxury Handbag [email protected] Graphic artist for girls 2-6x size range protection of an int’l human rights sible for merchandising / designing of needed for fast growing children’s environment & meet compliance Product Development / Patterns/Samples our fashion forward handbag and SLG wear company. Must have at least 3-5 standards. This individual will be the For 40+ yrs. Quality-driven. line. Qualified applicants should have Sourcing years experience with children’s li- liaison w/ our suppliers/factories & our Growing accessory co. (bags, belts, English-fluent. Helen @ (917) 331-0317 excellent computer skills as well as a cense character art, Disney character licensors/ brands in processing factory strong fashion sense. Must have prior jewlery) seeks organized and creative preferred. Excellent knowledge of il- approvals. Qualified candidate must indiv. Must be able to identify emerg- handbag exp. Salary commensurate with lustrator CS2 and Photoshop. Ability be well organized, detail-oriented PATTERN/SAMPLES exp. Pls. fax resume to: (212) 629-3123 ing trends, design concepts and hands Design Assistant to design original graphics and prints. individual capable of working in a on sourcing for junior & young ladies Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Exciting opportunity in design, pro- Knowledge of embroidery, appliqué, fast-paced environment and meeting work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 mkt. Strong computer and communi- duction and merchandising. Must be a Design Room Asst and print production techniques. Fast, deadlines. Excellent communication cation skills. Exp with licensing. Email self starter and highly org’d. Knowl- detail orientated with a good sense of skills & ability to work independently resume to: [email protected] edge of Excel & Tech Pack prepara- Entry level position for a busy design color, trend and design. Salary based & use sound judgment are essential. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tions a must! Fax resume:212-941-0114 room that specializes in nb-toddler on experience. Please send Resumes to Min 3 yrs exp in a related industry PRODUCTIONS apparel and accessories. Resp. will [email protected] along w/ excellent computer skills are include but not limited to board position req’ts. We offer competitive All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. presentations, sample and catalog Production Assistant Call Sherry 212-719-0622. starting salary, based on bkgd & exp Hbag Mfgr seeks team player w/exc Designer $80-90K Current exp in pri- preparation for sales, sample prep. for with comprehensive employee benefits vate label updated Jr. driven missy the orient. Knowledge of Excel and GRAPHIC ARTIST communication, organizational skills pkg. Pls send resume & cover letter w/sal & ability to prioritize. Daily corresp w/ sportswear. Will deal w/ Wal-Mart. other business programs a plus. Major apparel company seeks skilled hist & req’ts as a Word document to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Midtwn co. Email [email protected] Call Naomi 212-391-6970 x 147 Far East & customers, submission & PRODUCTIONS freelance graphic artist in Junior girls [email protected] follow up of lab dips & samples. Must tops for execution in screen prints. Must be proficient in Outlook, Excel and Word. Full service shop to the trade. Patternmaker $70-80K. Current exp in Design be proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. E-mail [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Designer mens or womens woven dress shirts. Textile Design Assistant Fax resumes to: 212.730.9705 Willing to relocate to Northeast Penn. Patterns/Samples/Production Asst Hat Designer High-end Men’s Wear Co. seeks a detail E-mail [email protected] AGCY High-end NY hat design co. seeks cre- oriented individual w/0-2 years Textile Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms Production Assistant ative, organized individ to help design Design experience. Must be proficient Import Co, childrenswear, seeks Prod Any Style - Full Service women’s, mens, bridge line hats, hair with Mac and have strong computer GRAPHIC ARTIST Patternmaker/Asst Designer Asst to handle order details from Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 acc & belts. Must have 1-2 yrs hat/acc graphics background and weave Must have 3-5 years exp in nb-toddler Handbags placement through shipment. Must design & RTW exp., technical knowledge knowledge. Should have a willingness apparel or access. Must be able to work Experienced in sewing first sample understand garment size specs. Com- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD of hat patterns, felt/straw, cut/sew, knit to learn and be part of a design team. in Illustrator and Photoshop. Resp. in- for overseas production. puter literate Excel a must. Fluent in High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- & fur hats. Fax/email resume & $ req Please Fax cover letter and resume to clude both creative & technical design. Salary commensurate with experience. English & Chinese. Fax resume sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 F: 212-674-1769 E: [email protected] Leen Yang at: 212-575-2506 Call Pat 212-391-6970 x 143 Call 914-420-4136 / Fax 201-784-3242 212-268-8232 or Email [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2006 19

SOURCING DIRECTOR/to $175k+ Production Assistant For young men’s/Jr’s. sportswear divi- Major apparel company seeks detail sion of mjr. NYC apparel co. Must have oriented and organized assistant for strong factory contacts for sourcing sportswear (China a must), for mid busy production dept. Responsibilities range +, specialty stores & WAL-MART include PO entry, work order entry and mkts., excl. management skills, Ability QC tracking plus follow up & handling to neg. factory prices, travel a must. of all packing and carton markings. Must Email resume: [email protected] have good computer and communication Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 skills. AS 400 experience preferred. Please fax resumes to: 212.730.9705 SPEC TECHNICIAN/ TECH DESIGNER Production Associate Established Active Sportswear and Int’l Textile Co. seeks highly motivated Outerwear Co. seeking an experienced detail oriented person to track goods individual to evaluate sample develop- Bonpoint Paris, prestigious growing international from order placement to delivery. Daily ment through final production. Must communication w/ overseas suppliers. have fitting, grading, garment construc- Children’s Clothing Co. seeks for its new NY store Computer literate, good follow-up skills. tion, specing, overseas communication opening at 392 Bleecker street : Knowledge of textiles a +. Challenging skills and sewing knowledge. Team support position in a friendly busy work oriented environment excellent environment. Company paid benefits. compensation & benefits package. Store Manager Please fax resume: 212-245-7615 Fax resume w/ salary requirements DIRECTOR OF SALES - DRESSES to: 646-364-9750 Assistant Manager A.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designer clothing seeks a Production Coordinator Tech Designer $80-100K Current Brand & Private Label mfr. & imptr. strong exp in bras. Tech pkgs for dynamic, highly motivated and dedicated individual to join Sales Associates seeks indiv. w/ min. 5 yrs. exp. Daily domestic and overseas. Mdtn growing communication w/ our China office & company. Email [email protected]. our dress division. Candidate will be responsible for managing Candidates must have minimum 2 years High-End Retail factories to track prod’n status, samples, lab dips, fabric & yarn orders. Exp. in Tech Designer to $75K. Current exp in a team of sales executives, as well as, direct sales responsibility Management/Sales Experience, excellent interpersonal working w/ designer’s & technician’s better to bridge woven sportswear. for key accounts. Individual must be challenged to open up spec packs, ordering accessories & daily Tech Designer $90k.Full fashion skills and superior customer service. Luxury goods experience a maintenance of control charts. Strong sweaters. E-mail [email protected] new businesses, build existing businesses and re-build and plus. We offer competitive salary and full benefits package. communication skills, proficiency in strengthen relationships within the marketplace. Established Outlook & Excel req’d. Please e-mail Tech Graphic Artist Please email resume to: [email protected] resume w/ salary req’s to: Must have 3-5 years exp. in nb-toddler relationships with Better/Contemporary Department stores [email protected] apparel or access. Must be able to work and Specialty retailers a must. Minimum of 3-5 years sales or fax to: 212-246-3293 in Illustrator & Excel. Responsibilities Production Coordinator include print repeats, technical pack- experience required. www.bonpoint.com ages, specs & construction. Exp w/ the Fashion Accessory Co. seeks an exp’d. Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources person to oversee all import production. orient a plus. Call Pat 212-3916970 x 143 Must be detail oriented, motivated, and (213) 891-2812 or email: [email protected] have Wal-Mart/CTL experience. Chinese speaking a big plus. Overseas travel a TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI E/O/E must. Excellent organization, commu- 1) Childrens 2) C/S Knits nication, and computer skills (Excel) 3) Sweaters 4) Assistants or Associates SALES PRO’S FT/PT req’d. Fax resumes to: 866-300-5900 Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY Tech Spec- $50-60K. Current exp in SALESPERSON Italian luxury brand of jewelry PRODUCTION putting tech pkgs together to be sent to far east. Strong in sewing construc- Growing Album & Accessories Co. and home collections seeks full CO-ORDINATOR tion. Computerized. Long Island City, Victorinox Swiss Army is looking seeks an aggressive, detail oriented and part time sales professionals Michelle Roth/Henry Roth provide Queens loc. Email [email protected] for Sales Managers for our men’s great oppty to join a dynamic co. Resp. Sales Pro. Low Base/High Commis- for flagship store opening include order entry & accurate tracking Traffic Coord to $50K Current exp in & women’s apparel division sion; Potential for profit sharing. Call apparel co. req’d. Send Docs for November 2006 in SOHO. through to purchase orders & ordering based in NYC. Must have at least David at: 212-239-3218 or E-mail: trims for o/s vendors. Prepare & invoice custom clearances, followup ship- 5+ yrs exp in a wholesale and Salary, bonus and benefits. orders, overseeing the packing of ments. Span/ Eng Bilingual. Email emomentsdavid@ verizon.net orders for national distribution. Moti- [email protected]. JARAL AGCY luxury brand environment. Strong For consideration email resumes vated candidate will interact w/ design industry relationships required. to: [email protected] & production team daily. Must be Email resume to: REGIONAL REPS organized, detailed, reliable - able to SALES PROFESSIONAL Hip, Hot, Bridge Contemporary Mfr. is maintain accurate records in related [email protected]. EOE Ladies Sportswear Co seeks an aggres- seeking top-producing commissioned activities. Min. 3 yrs. exp. in similar sive salesperson with strong relation- multi-line Reps with boutique account & position required. Email resume to : ships with Dept / Chains. Excellent SALESPERSON P/T key account experience in the North- [email protected] NICOLE MILLER earning potential. Fax: 212-719-4644 east, NY Metro, Midwest, PNW, PSW, GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Rocky Mountain, Texas and Southeast. Production Sourcing Mgr $125-150K Looking for Reps nationwide to promote unique fashion line of wireless phone Luxury Accessory Company seeking To join our rocking team, E-mail your Current exp in sourcing outerwear, SALES PROFESSIONAL someone dynamic & results driven resume to: [email protected] wool coats, polyfill etc worldwide. cases. Please call: (631) 273-7302 x138 Los Angeles based company Kinara Fax: (516) 908-7668 or Email resume to: for their Madison Avenue boutique. Mdtwn Co. Email [email protected] seeks exp’d skincare Sales Rep to Must have 3 plus years exp dealing w/ [email protected] launch its wholesale distribution. Production Sourcing Mgr $OPEN high-end clientele in accessories Please fax resume to (626) 683-3243 Fax resume to 212-794-3910 BOE Current exp in swimwear a must. Sales Key Account Exec $OPEN BOE or E-mail: [email protected] Sales Rep Wanted Sourcing worldwide req’d. Mdtn grow- Current exp in womens or mens WRECORDS BY MONKEY ing Co. Email [email protected]. outerwear. Popular priced or moderate Brooklyn Based Accessory company seeks qualified salesperson, w/ strong Production Sourcing Mgr to $125K. or better market ok. Large, well known Mdtn co. Email [email protected]. customer base. Experience within Current strong exp in better to bridge fashion industry a must. Commission womens market required. Domestic Sales $OPEN BOE. Current strong exp based and open to take on an inde- plus overseas. Well known brand. in selling kids sportswear. Min. vol- pendent line. Please email resume to: E-mail [email protected] AGCY ume 4-5 mil. Established well known [email protected] firm. Email [email protected] PRODUCT MANAGER ACTIVITY KITS AND TOYS Warren, NJ major mass retail supplier of activity kits and toys seeks experienced individual for sourcing, product direc- tion & development. Ability to create & manage detailed spreadsheets/timelines. Must have creative ability to interpret trends, be hands-on & have good com- munication & organizational skills. Experience communicating with China a must. Excellent Salary/Benefits. E-mail resume/salary to: [email protected] QC Mgr $OPEN BOE. Current exp in outerwear production QC involved with fit, fabric performance, counter samples. Supervise tech designers. Inspection + evaluation of factories WW. Extnsv travel. Email [email protected]. Receptionist - Admin. Asst. Large Apparel Co. seeks energetic, hard working individual to handle busy phones and various admin duties. Excellent comp. and typing skills a must. Please Fax resume to: 212 921 5341 Retail Store Manager Min. 3 yrs. women’s fashion forward boutique mgmt exp. You will need strong interpersonal & communication abilities, excellent computer skills & comfort with upscale clientele. Refs req’d. Kindly e-mail resume & salary req’s to: [email protected] Senior Demand Planner ACTIVITY KITS & TOYS Warren, NJ supplier of activity kits & toys for mass market seeks experienced individual for demand planning and forecasting a large and dynamically growing business. Right candidate will have minimum 3 yrs. in retail consumer demand planning experience, outstand- ing excel skills, and the ability to com- municate well with customers. Excellent Salary/Benefits. E-mail resume/salary to: [email protected] SHIPPING MANAGER High-end hat co. needs Shipping Mgr ASAP to quality control, ship/pack intl’. Must have 1 yr ship exp. & EDI exp major +. Fax/email resume & $ req F: 212-674-1769 E: [email protected] SPECIAL ISSUES WWDICSC Preview GROWTH. EXPANSION. EXPOSURE.

More and more apparel, accessory, jewelry and beauty companies are opening their own stores or expanding to new locations every day. Advertise in the special issue that previews ICSC and provides retailers with inside access to information and resources they need to make their next big move.

Issue Date: November 27 Close: November 9

™ For more information, please contact Melissa Morales, account manager, at WWD Style Starts Here 212-630-3620, or Deborah Levy, account manager, West Coast, at 323-965-7283

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