GOOD LIFE SUNDAY,AUGUST 31, 2014

HISTORIC CHARM

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE CHOWAN COUNTY TOURISM DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY A sailboat nears the cypress trees in Edenton, N.C. Edenton has been called “one of America’s prettiest towns” by Forbes.com On ’s , Edenton earns its ‘prettiest town’ designation

By Felicia L. Mason | [email protected]

DENTON, N.C. — “One of America’s prettiest towns” is the designation Edenton, N.C., Eearned from Forbes.com. From shops selling funky and eclectic art and a scenic waterfront that includes a restored 1886 light- house to historic Summer homes and delicious Day Trips food, Edenton more than exceeds that prettiest town designation.

With a population of just under 5,000 people, FELICIA L. MASON/DAILY PRESS PHOTOS

this little town on North Carolina’s Inner Banks is Sally Francis Kehayes of the the perfect summertime — or anytime — day trip. Edenton His- torical Commis- Many people are familiar with the coastal Outer sion sets up a Banks, but the locations inside the Albermarle display in the Barker House Sound should not be ignored. exhibit room about the 1886 As the county seat for Chowan County, Edenton Lighthouse. offers visitors Southern hospitality steeped in his- The lighthouse, shown above, tory dating to the Revolutionary War and charm has been that is welcomingly infectious. restored, and it opened to the public on See EDENTON/Page10 Aug. 15.

THAT’S JUST THE INSIDE

ARTS WAY IT IS NOW Visit Hampton’s Charles H. Taylor Arts Center to Bruce Hornsby breaks new ground on ‘Solo’ check out the 2014 edition of By Mike Holtzclaw home. “I’ve tried to find a way to “ Artists Juried Exhibition,” [email protected] perform it in a context that could be accessible. It’s a very difficult which runs Bruce Hornsby spent much of challenge to take this dissonant, through Sept. 7 the past three years challenging chromatic – most people would and includes 119 himself on stage. Now he has used just say strange – music that I love works. Page 3 those shows to put together a new and find a place for it in the context HOME & two-disc set that he acknowledges of popular songs.” GARDEN Bruce will challenge his listeners. These recordings are the latest The Virginia Zoo Hornsby’s “Solo Concerts,” released last reminder that Hornsby has long- isn’t just about new al- week on the Vanguard label, con- since left behind the “pop star” animals: It has bum, "Solo tains 20 songs recorded between stage of his career, when he had a 10 themed Concerts," 2011 and early this year. Each per- string of pop hits from 1986-90. He gardens that is a two- formance features Hornsby and his still plays a handful of those hits make up the CD set piano, with no backing musicians. each night, but he admits that is zoo’s 53-acre recorded The styles range from blues and more a nod to the more casual fans experience. Brian on stage boogie-woogie to the highly esoter- who just assume they will be hear- Francis, the zoo’s over the ic 12-tone classical form developed ing “The Way it Is” and “The End new curator of past three by Austrian composer Arnold of the Innocence.” When he plays horticulture, years. Schoenberg in the 1920s. them today, especially in the solo hopes to enhance the PHOTO “That’s the goal here – to expose format, it is in new arrangements COURTESY people to some more adventurous that re-invent the familiar tunes. gardens even OF RED LIGHT more. Page 8 MANAGE- musical areas,” Hornsby said by MENT phone from his Williamsburg See HORNSBY/Page2 10 Sunday, August31, 2014DGOOD LIFE AILY PRESS Sense of history infuses town

EDENTON Things to see and do Continued from 1 Penelope Barker House. Built in 1782. Barker was the thrice married leader of the Edenton Tea Party. Views from the second floor porch are spectacular. On display in the house is a Getting there centennial quilt by the North Carolina Society of the Daughters My day trip began with a 1¾- of the American Revolution. There is a changing exhibit room hour drive from the Peninsula and a gift shop. Edenton Trolley Tour tickets are purchased here. headed south via the James River 505 S. Broad St. 252-482-7800. ehcnc.org. Bridge to Routes 58 and 32. Coun- The 1886 Roanoke River Lighthouse. South Broad Street at try and one-lane roads through Water Street. 252-482-2637. edentonlighthouse.org. Suffolk marked the journey. The St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. The second oldest surviving comeback, which I expected to be church in North Carolina still has an active parish. Three colonial faster via Route 17 and Interstate governors are buried in the church’s cemetery. 101 West Gale St. 664 and the Monitor-Merrimac 252-482-2637. Memorial Bridge-Tunnel, actu- Edenton Cotton Mill Historic District. This district in Edenton ally took a longer 2¼ hours be- houses the former cotton mill which has been converted into cause of construction delays and a condos, a museum (only open on weekends from 10 a.m.-2 bridge opening in Chesapeake. p.m.), and a neighborhood of single-family homes originally built There are no tolls and an audio for mill bosses, and duplex bungalows that were designed for book accompanied me on the single male mill workers. The village reminded me a lot of drive. Hampton’s historic Aberdeen Gardens. 420 Elliott St. 252-482-7455. millvillagemuseum.org. First impressions Cupola House. Built in 1758. Its gardens were remade from a My first stop was at the His- 1769 map of Edenton. 408 S. Broad St. 252-482-2637. Hours: toric Edenton State Historic Site Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. on North Broad Street. And yes, Edenton Bay Cruises/Liber-TEA Harbour Cruise. A narrated the word historic is in there and scenic tour, weather permitting. Cruises are Thursday twice. It’s a hint about just how through Monday at 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. deep the town’s roots run in Tickets: $15, adults; children 13 and under, $10. Senior and American history and how a town military rates. Get $3 off your harbour cruise by showing your with a population of 4,993 people Edenton trolley receipt. Board on South Broad Street at Colonial has capitalized on that rich his- Park. 860-367-5786. tory. Edenton Farmer’s Market. Open every Saturday, 8 a.m.-noon The visitor center is also a from May through November. Corner of Virginia Road and great place to begin a day trip to Granville at the Agricultural Extension Center. 252-482-0826. Edenton. In addition to displays The Garden of Readin’. Unfortunately, since my visit, the owner about the town and county and a posted that due to illness, he’ll be closing the shop Oct. 15 unless friendly staff on hand to answer a buyer is found. The Garden of Readin’, 103 E. King St., questions, there’s a free 15-minute 252-482-7323. Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; video that provides an overview Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. facebook.com/edenton.usedbooks of Edenton. From its origins with Edenton Tree Walk. Edenton has been named a Tree City USA the Algonquin Indian tribe and its PHOTO COURTESY OF THE CHOWAN COUNTY TOURISM DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY every year since 1978. See the town as well as its lovely trees in a founding in 1722 — named for Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church, circa 1736-1760, in Edenton, N.C., is the one-hour self-guided walking tour that begins at the Historic Charles Eden, one of the first second oldest surviving church building in North Carolina. Three coloni- Edenton State Historic Site. Pick up a brochure there. governors of North Carolina — to al governors are buried in the historic churchyard cemetery. Rocky Hock Playhouse. A Christian musical dinner theater. what the town means to local 252-482-4621. Performances and times vary. Tickets: $29.95, residents today, the video packs a adults. Discounts for seniors, children and groups. lot of information into a short rockyhockplayhouse.com. amount of time. Its industries included fisher- Where to eat ies and cotton and tobacco plan- tations. Edenton offers several coffeehouses and fast food restaurants. The Virginia Peninsula was If you’d like your day trip to include a picnic in one of the town recognized in that video. Appar- parks, you can pick up eats at one of the local shops or at Food ently town residents thought Lion. Lord Charles Cornwallis was For meals that provide the flavor and spirit of the town, try: headed to Edenton and prepared Waterman’s Grill, Seafood, steaks, pasta, and sandwiches to defend themselves during the served on two levels. Bar included. 427 S. Broad St. 252-482-7733. watermansgrill.com. Revolutionary War. Cornwallis, FELICIA L. MASON/DAILY PRESS PHOTO Bayside Marina & Grill. Serves breakfast and lunch. 802 W. as we know, headed toward Street view in Edenton, N.C., showing the Waterman’s Grill restaurant. Yorktown, thus sparing the town Queen St. 252-482-5343. that remained a busy seaport visitedenton.com/bayside-marina-and-grill. until the Dismal Swamp canal 95 Nothin Fancy Cafe and Market. Home cooking and Southern eventually diverted business to meals. 701 N. Broad St. 252-482-1909. Norfolk and Elizabeth City. 309 Bistro & Spirits, Classic American cuisine. 309 S. Broad St. Ihad to chuckle at myself 64 252-482-0997. Find them and daily specials on Facebook. when I pulled into a parking Newport Kristy’s Place. Italian cuisine. 321 S. Broad St. 252-482-7655. News space further down on Broad 85 664 Street. I looked up to discover I 95 Atlantic Want to go? was right in front of the office of VA. 58 Ocean the Chowan Herald. Leave it to PHOTO COURTESY OF THE For more information about Edenton, N.C., go to CHOWAN COUNTY TOURISM N.C. 17 visitedenton.com, edenton.net and townofedenton.com. the newspaper lady to uncon- DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY 13 sciously hone in on that spot. Of 1767 Chowan County Courthouse. course, I purchased a copy, but I Edenton More online resisted the nearly overwhelming Sharon Keeter who sits at the urge to go inside. I did, after all, front with a microphone telling DAILY PRESS See a photo gallery of images from Edenton at come to see the town, not to talk the stories of Edenton and point- dailypress.com/features. shop with the local journalists. ing out one interesting factoid through the years a shoe repair My independent walk was of after another about the town’s shop, a fish market and other About the series the meandering sort, in and out of people, history, buildings and restaurants. shops like the Edenton Bay Trad- current merchants like the Polka My meal, cashew crusted fried Summer Day Trips takes a look at five places to make a quick ing Co., an eclectic place featuring Dot Palm, a women’s shop of tilapia topped with beurre blanc getaway for the day before the season ends. All within driving wines, art, a beer tasting room, accessories, coastal decor and art. sauce, was a wonderful choice. distance of the Peninsula, join us each Sunday in August for and rooms dedicated to the col- “All ladies love the Polka Dot The tilapia was succulent and the Summer Day Trips. orful delights of children. Palm,” Keeter said before launch- sides I chose, spinach and green TODAY: Edenton, N.C. In the Edenton Office Supply ing back into historical informa- beans, were well seasoned. The Go to dailypress.com/features for photos and to read about —yes, I went into an office supply tion. meal came with hush puppies our day trips to The Northern Neck, Carytown/Richmond, The store, but I was lured there not by For example, in 1774, 51 women that I wanted to order more of. Eastern Shore and Petersburg. the need to buy sticky notes on a refused to purchase high-priced day trip, but by the art in the front goods, Keeter said. That rebellion Historic charm windows. became the Edenton Tea Party, Edenton’s historic area is ideal closure by a group of Edenton “The historical committee In The Garden of Readin’, a “one of the earliest instances of for walking, and there were two residents who pooled their mon- made it possible to buy the light- used book shop and tearoom, I political activity by women in the different guided walking tours ey to rescue the property. After house and give it to the state,” had the iced tea of the day, Afri- colonies,” she said. available the day I visited. A 1½- being renovated, it’s now on the Kehayes told me. The state of can Peach (“South African honey- That tea reference would hold hour tour for $6 and an hour-long market, but is being used as an North Carolina provided the bush and real peach, naturally strong for 240 years. Teapots tour for $4. The Patriots Tour events venue. restoration funding, she said, and caffeine-free”), which was served grace the Edenton town logo. (start times 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.) The town’s historic homes it took two years to complete the with a Biscoff cookie. And I And in October, the town cele- includes the James Iredell House, “show 200 years of prosperity project. couldn’t resist purchasing a box brates that rebellion with events home of an associate justice on and change,” I heard in the intro- Lighthouses were an impor- of Edenton Harbour Tea, the throughout the month including the first U.S. Supreme Court and ductory video. Water Street tant part of maritime history and shop’s house tea blended exclu- tablescapes to view at the Barker attorney general during the homes offer a glimpse at the still the one in Edenton has a special sively for the Edenton Women’s House, a Tea Trot featuring tast- American Revolution; St. Paul’s existing prosperity. distinction. It’s believed to be the Club, to share with my tea-loving ings at different restaurants and Church; and the 1867 Chowan In addition to historic markers last remaining original square co-workers. It’s a fusion of Earl businesses, and Teapots on Pa- County Courthouse, which is all around the town, signs denot- screw-pile lighthouse. Grey and jasmine. And if this rade, a collection on display at the considered the most intact colo- ing the name and construction Kehayes explained that the were a scratch and sniff article, arts council gallery which the nial courthouse in the South. The date of the historic properties are method means the lighthouse you’d know why a special trip local paper said “is drawing a National Landmarks Tour begins hard to miss as you walk, drive or stands on piles that were screwed back to Edenton for more of this strong response” from residents at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. and includes ride the trolley around Edenton. into the river bottom rather than tea is in order. who are loaning antique and the Cupola House and the Court- The first one I noted was at the secured in rock. The exhibit will Amake it yourself gallery, Side other teapots and tea sets for the house. Visitor Center which is housed in be up through Oct. 1, she said. Street Studio, was across the exhibition which will include the African-American history is the Louis F. Ziegler house, circa And she echoed Nathan’s rea- street from the book/tea shop but stories about the antique teapots. also on display and incorporated 1892. sons for living in Edenton. “My was closed by the time I got there. It was hard to miss the blue into the tours, including the life of Iasked about those signs while husband grew up here,” she said. It offers classes with projects that ribbons tied to street posts, on Harriet Jacobs, an escaped slave at the Barker House. Gregg Na- “We were living in Montana and can be completed in a day. houses and businesses through- who became an abolitionist and than, executive director of the wanted to return to warm Atheme began to emerge: art is out the town. Inquiring minds later a writer publishing her Edenton Historical Commission, weather and warm water.” important here. From original wondered and found out the why. memoir “Incidents in the Life of a explained that property owners Making the decision to return works to prints, art is found and The day before my visit, Katy Slave Girl” in 1861. Available upon purchase them from the same to Edenton was easy, she said. for sale in many of the businesses, Ebersole, a co-owner of the request at the visitor center is a maker, thus the uniformity “My friends thought I was nuts restaurants and, of course, at the Waterman’s Grill restaurant, had separate walking tour that further throughout the town. coming to a small town, but I love Chowan Arts Council Gallery returned home to Edenton fol- explores her life in Edenton. And “Edenton still has small town it.” where local and regional artists’ lowing brain surgery. In addition featured on the trolley tour are charm, the friendliest people,” work is on display and for pur- to a big “So glad you’re home” the many houses and properties Nathan said. “As a city boy, peo- Last thoughts chase. (Think Hampton’s Blue sign on Water Street, the towns- built by Hannibal Badham Sr. and ple don’t understand why I’m Edenton offers plenty to see Skies Gallery, but much larger.) people welcomed her back after his family. here. Historic homes, a vibrant and do in a day. I returned to the It was there I overheard a the successful surgery with the During the trolley tour, Keeter downtown, the people,” those are Peninsula about 9:30 p.m. with couple bemoaning the fact that blue ribbons all over. Keeter said Wessington House was built the reasons he moved to Edenton thoughts of how soon I could get they should have booked another offered the trolley riders several in 1850 for $10,000, and sold a few and has stayed. back there. night so they could stay another options for where to get lunch, years ago for $1.6 million to a The venues that weren’t open day in Edenton. I was beginning dinner or a quick bite, but after buyer from Charlottesville. 1886 lighthouse on my weekday visit, like the to get the same feeling. she told me this, I knew where I’d Renovations have been under- My day trip to Edenton on Cotton Mill Museum and the But I needed to pick up the be having a meal later in the day. way since the purchase and on Thursday, Aug. 14, was the day lighthouse, as well as sites I’d like pace a bit so I wouldn’t miss the And that’s where I found yet Dec. 12-13, Wessington will be before the grand reopening of the to explore even more and the last trolley tour. another connec- featured during the Edenton 1886 Historic Roanoke River harbor cruise I couldn’t fit into tion. Ebersole moved to Edenton Christmas Candlelight Tour, I Lighthouse. But I was lucky my day beckon a return trip. Around the town from Virginia Beach where she’d found out later from the director enough to be visiting the nearby Not only did I discover just One of the best ways to get to worked at the Surf Rider Restau- of the town’s historical commis- Penelope Barker House while why Edenton is one of America’s know a place is to take a tour. So I rant on 17th Street. Waterman’s sion. Sally Francis Kehayes of the prettiest towns, I found out why did just that via the Edenton Grill with its nautical décor and Across the street from Wes- Edenton Historical Commission its residents love the charm of trolley. For $10, you get a 50- multiple dining levels, opened in sington is Pembroke Hall, a na- was putting the finishing touches this historic waterfront commu- minute ride in an air-conditioned 1996, in a century-old building tional historic landmark, circa on an exhibit about the light- nity. trolley. Our guide for the ride was that had been at various times 1850, which was saved from fore- house.