ESSENCE - International Journal for Environmental Rehabilitation and Conservation Deodiya et al./VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/17 - 20 Volume VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017 [17 - 20] [ISSN 0975 - 6272] [www.essence-journal.com]

Gandhi’s Khadi: A new trend in Apparel Designing throughh Resist Printing and Traditional Embroidery as a Value Addition of Khadi

Deodiya, Sangita; Ojha, Divya and Purwar, Shrishti

Received: June 18, 2016  Accepted: July 12, 2017  Online: August 20, 2017

Abstract ji used ‘Khadi’ as a ‘Livery of objective of ‘Antyodaya’. One of the way for freedom’ and ‘tool for self-reliance’ during empowering the Khadi and making it popular freedom movement. Khadi, the ‘fabric of globally is value addition. Value Addition is freedom’, has been a sources of empowering the process where we enhance the saleability millions of spinners, weavers and other of the product by adding some incentives to artisans spread across the country and it. One way of value adddition used on khadi making them self-reliant. Khadi is traditional, in the present study was different techniques ethnic and artisan intensive. He had also of Tie and Dye. Present study was done foreseen Khadi as a tool for Economic under the scheme PRODIP (Product Independence. Khadi has always been a Development, Design Intervention and fabric with attitude. It has now become a Packaging) under which Khadi apparels were fashion statement. Its journey from its developed using tie and dye method and were eventful birth as the fabric favoured by ornamented through different traditional revolutionaries, to designer boutiques and embroidery techniques. These products were elite consciousness is worth enough of sold in Khadi Bazar and a fashion show were mention in the history of the country. The organized for the same. As a result, a huge need of the hour is to make Khadi a ‘National positive response and big sale was recorded Fabric’ and a tool of mass movement for for the developed products. achieving the objective of socio economic Keywords: Khadi | Value addition | tie and development of the most vulnerable section dye | apparel of the society thereby fulfilling the Gandhian Introduction For Correspondence: I believe that where there is pure and active

Department of Home Science, Vasant Kanya love for the poor there is God also. I see God Mahavidyalaya, Varanasi in every thread that I draw on the spinning Centre for Fashion Design and Technology, University of Allahabad, Allahabaad wheel…..... Email: [email protected]

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Khadi is defined as any cloth hand spun and as a fashion fabric and making them as a hand woven. The raw materials may be fashion fabric. , silk or , which are spun into Khadi as a Brand: These days Khadi has threads on a called a become a brand name and under the name of Charkha. Khadi is an Indian fabric, also this brand many of products is being known by another name Khaddar also said to launched some of the products are: Woollen be the essence if . During pre- products, Hospital , Leather products, Independence era, the movement of Khadi Organic manure, Handmade paper and manufacturing gained momentum under the products, and many more. guidance of father of nation, Mahatma Value addition on Khadi: VALUE Gandhi. This movement of khadi ADDITION is the process where we enhance manufacturing and started as the salability of the product by adding some symbol of defiance to discourage the Indians incentives to it. Design usually means from wearing the foreign clothes. Khadi production of coloured pattern however it is before Independence was considered as the possible to produce pattern even without fabric for the political leaders and rural using colour eg. Printing, Tie and Dye, people. But, now it has found its way into the Category of Embroidery etc. In the present wardrobe of fashion conscious people. study tie and dye technique has been used for Khadi is geographically a wide spread designing garment and different traditional economic activity encompassing all the states embroidery techniques has been used for in the country. Given the high involvement of ornamentation of the garment. women and marginalized groups in the KVI PRODIP: The PRODIP Scheme has the sector this approach will consolidates the potential to impact on quality of khadi & V.I. developmental efforts to promote inclusive products. A need has been to simplify growth. and wherever necessary, to broaden the “Khadi” means any cloth that is hand spun operational guidelines so as to facilitate and hand woven, made of cotton, wool, silk implementation of the scheme in a result- and their blends. Hand spinning and weaving oriented manner and procedure. It is run by imparts it a rugged texture, a unique look, directorate of Khadi commission. feel and hand, which can be modified by Methodology: The present study was treatment. It’s a ‘Gift for today conducted under the scheme PRODIP from the treasury of the past’. Mahatma (Product Development, Design Intervention Gandhi elevated the brittle thread of cotton to and Packaging). In this development of a symbol of strength and self-sufficiency, and product under PRODIP jointly with khadi to provide employment for the millions institution was done. Materials and method during India's freedom struggle, and that used for the study are as follows: symbolism of wearing cloth made by human Materials Used hands has continued till this day. In the present scenario renowned designers such as Fabric: Silk fabric with having st and dt with Ritu Beri, manish Malhotra are using Khadi epi 70, ppi 65 and epi 60, ppi 54 was chosen 18

Deodiya et al./VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/17 - 20 for the development of the apparels such as techniques such as , Chikenkari, , Shalwar, Saree, , Stoles, Computer embroidery and crotchet work. scarfs, skirts, Balloon tops and many more. Preparation of the Apparel: Prototypes of Dye: Acid dye and metal complex dye were apparel were developed approx.100 from the used for tie and dye technique on silk fabric value added silk fabric (tie and dye and for making design. embroidery) such as Kurta, Shalwar, Saree, Dupatta, Stole, scarf, Skirts and many more.

Organizing Fashion Show: National and State level fashion show was organized for the developed value added Khadi apparel. State level fashion show was organized at Varanasi and National level show was held at Allahabad, Kumbh Mela. Sale of the Product: Finally, to analyse the acceptability of the developed product, sale of the same was done in the Khadi Bazar of Designing: For designing on the silk fabric Varanasi and Allahabad city. for the apparel production, various tie and dye technique were used using acid and metal complex dyes.

Result and Discussion The present study was conducted under the scheme PRODIP (Product Development, Design Intervention and Packaging). In this

development of product under PRODIP Ornamentation of the Fabric: Fabric jointly with khadi institution was done. prepared with tie and dye was ornamented Result obtained from the study are: with different traditional embroidery 1 Range of garments were developed on Khadi using value addition technique such 19

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as Tie and dye and traditional embroidery It would be a request to all, to buy Khadi techniques. instead of buying foreign brands. By buying 2 Marketing of the developed product was Khadi we will help to generate employment also done in the khadi Bazar of Varanasi and also get quality products. and Allahabad city and the acceptance of References the product was analysed. Approximately Sheikh. Hafizur Rehman: Estimation of value 140 meter were developed worth rupees addition in the manufacture of 400 to 500 per meter. The cost of the products, Textile institute of . fabric was increased to rupees 40 to 50 Balasubramanyam, K. (2015): A study on after tie and dye and approx. 100 to 300 Khadi and village industries sector, rupees as increased after ornamentation International journal of Academic with and traditional embroidery and Research. crochet work. 3 Acceptability/saleability of the developed Dodamani. M. T. and Kunnal, L. B. (2007): samples were analysed on 120 customers value addition to organically in which 70 customers purchased the produced Naturally- colored cotton developed apparels and 50 customers under contract farming, Agricultural didn’t accepted the samples. Economical Research Review, vol.20 (conference issue) pp 521-528. Conclusion Upadhyay, Garima and Deodiya Sangita Mahatma Gandhi elevated the brittle thread (2013): Awareness of youth towards of cotton to a symbol of strength and self- Khadi, Academicia: An international sufficiency, and to provide employment for multidisciplinary research journal, 3 the millions during India's freedom struggle, (7): 156-162. and that symbolism of wearing cloth made by human hands has continued till this day. Considering various aspects of khadi present study focuses on awareness of youth towards khadi and value addition on Khadi. It can be concluded that adding some value on Khadi such as printing, and embroidery increases the acceptability of the Khadi products nationally and globally. Majority of youth view khadi as a fabric associated with and the major cause of low acceptability of khadi is higher cost of purchasing as well as maintenance cost and lack of user friendly attribute.

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