feature story Staking out local fare B Y M ICHAEL N OLA N Meat-and-three: That uniquely southern expression describing an un- assuming eating establishment where macaroni and cheese is considered a vegetable, bits of bacon float amid the green beans, and you have a choice of cornbread or rolls. Six local law enforcement officers tipped us off to some of their favorite lunch spots for home-style cooking. “The police know where the good food is – and where the cheap food is,” asserts Det. Grant Benedict of the Williamson County police department. Armed with their input, a countywide investigation began. – M.N. or sheer longevity, no one surpasses Dotson’s in Franklin, now celebrating 61 years of “pure country cookin’.” Its repu- tation is as tall as the meringue on their signature pies. Owner Art McCloud greets friends and strangers alike with a smiling, F“Hi, neighbor!” Although the fried chicken, meatloaf and desserts are his superstars, don’t miss other worthy options like the delicate dumplings in a rich chicken broth, the turkey and dressing studded with tiny diced pimento and eggs, or Mr. Art’s turnip greens harvested down the road in Pey- tonsville. “We try to stick to basic home cooking,” observes owner Barbara Thompson of Barbara’s Home Cooking, a friendly eatery based in a converted Grassland cottage. Baked squash, sweet potato casserole and creamed corn are lightly seasoned so the glorious natural flavors of the vegetables shine through. Mashed potatoes, regaled by Southern Living magazine, maintain a few lumps to let you know they’re the real deal. Her famous fried chicken comes hot from a cast iron skillet with a delicious crunch, and the roast beef has a robust peppery taste. But the crown jewels are the non-stop yeast rolls delivered hot to your table ready to be laden with the real butter. d 30 SOUTHERN EXPOSURE MAGAZINE www.southernexposuremagazine.com and tomatoes, and apple dump- lings. Co-owners Nick Bishop and Ja- son Crockarell are thrilled that, in addition to a healthy lunch crowd, families are flocking in. “Kids are eating vegetables and actually asking to come back,” re- ports Jason. “Not only are we bet- ter than fast food, we’re faster than Barbara’s Home Cooking fast food,” promises Nick who (Photo by Matt Huesmann) notes that they even offer car-side service for those who call ahead. “Today we probably did 70 pounds of barbecue (pork),” estimates Randy Whitefield, cook at the venerableOne Stop Café. A fixture since 1960 (or ’61, depending on which sign you be- lieve), barbecue is the headline news but other tempting contend- ers include fried chicken and country fried steak laden with white gravy. There may be enough ham in your turnip greens to count as a second meat. Try the pulled pork with some well-seasoned green beans, creamy mac-and-cheese, cinnamon apples, and good-as-it- gets sweet tea and you’ve got quite a feast for $8.63, including tax. “We’d get lynched if we didn’t have fried chicken,” confesses Dean Simpson of Franklin’s Cool Café. It’s a staple Monday through Thursday. Slabs of flavorful meatloaf and creamy mashed potatoes are popular as well. “We do a lot more fish than your typical meat-and-three,” he ob- Dotson’s signature pies (Photo by Will Jordan) serves, noting that choices range from old-fashioned salmon croquets Also in Grassland is new arrival Daily Dish where chef/owner Sean to the more contemporary baked tilapia. The café’s stellar line-up of Begin offers “comfort food but with a twist.” An alumnus of Capitol fresh salads includes corn and tomato salad, crunchy and colorful Grille, Big Guns Catering and the Copper Kettle, his daily offerings coleslaw, and broccoli salad with tangy homemade dressing. include “something fried, something, roasted and something a little continued on page 32 more healthy.” His popular country fried steak is a quality cut of beef that’s pound- ed, dredged in seasoned flour and pan-fried. The grilled barbecue beef tips are like bite-sized steaks cooked to savory perfection. Stick- to-your-ribs favorites such as green bean casserole, cheese grits and white beans are offset by lighter fare including pasta salad and fruit salad. You can break free from chain restaurants in Cool Springs by breez- ing into Bishop’s across the street from Lowe’s. Unexpected options include smothered pork chops, braised beef tips, carrot soufflé, okra d February/March 2008 SOUTHERN EXPOSURE MAGAZINE 31 feature story C O N TI N UED FRO M PAGE 3 1 If you can’t contain yourself to one meat sortment of hot vegetables and and three vegetables, you might want to salads, drink and the dessert of stake out Monell’s. Located in the beauti- the day. The bread pudding and fully renovated Old Jail, inmates never ate strawberry shortcake are fine like this. Platters of fried chicken, corn pud- but try capping your meal with ding and squash casserole are served family a biscuit drizzled with their style. Unless you bring a tableful of diners, peach preserves. expect to rub elbows with and pass the peas The City Café has been a fix- to strangers. ture in Brentwood for two de- City Café (Photo by Jennifer Cook) It’s the most expensive restaurant in- cades. In homage to their friend lice-pleasing eateries on your radar. vestigated ($12.95) but that price includes and former Nashville meat-and-three icon “I don’t think there’s anywhere I’ve had all you want of three lunch entrees, an as- Hap Townes, owners Jerry and Beata Cun- a bad meal,” testifies Williamson County’s ningham, serve his signature stewed raisins Corporal Chuck Norman, a 21-year veteran and highly acclaimed banana pudding, of the force. along with a stellar line-up of cobblers and In our next issue, we continue our hunt pies. for flavorful plate lunches with visits to Typically meat-and-threes raise the markets and a doughnut shop with multiple prices for special items, such as catfish, but personalities. d manager Janet Booth says, “Whatever meat and vegetables you pick, it’s the same price ($7.23).” Entrees rotate each day with en- trees including roasted pork loin, chicken livers and pork chops. In Brentwood, Vittles on Merchants Walk also vies for your attention. Get there early if you want a slice of Jan Craighhead’s coveted coconut cake. Even if it’s not avail- able, your excellent fallback options include a very vanilla-y banana pudding and a wide selection of pies. Of course, you might need to get your des- sert to go because of the bountiful options and generous portions. “We have around 15 meats and 20 vegetables every day,” explains Jan who owns the restaurant with her hus- band, John. Along with the usual suspects, you’ll find stuffed peppers, ambrosia, corn fritters and sweet potato fries. Monell’s (Photo by Jennifer Cook) As you travel the county, keep these po- Vittle’s Coconut Cake (Photo by Jennifer Cook) d 32 SOUTHERN EXPOSURE MAGAZINE www.southernexposuremagazine.com.