EBEL’S LUXURY FUTURE/2 ARE CONSUMER BLUES AHEAD?/2 WWDWWDMONDAYWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • April 19, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear The Silky Way NEW YORK — A trace of lace that’s both subtle and sensual is one of the details that gives the season’s its discreet charm. Here, Josie Natori’s silk gown and robe, edged in lace.

Wilson’s Way for Saks: Building a Distinct Image And Investing in Stores By David Moin H ALTIZIO AT ARTISTS LOFT; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN STYLED BY LOFT; ARTISTS AT H ALTIZIO NEW YORK — A remodeled flagship, more powerful brand presentations, fewer price promotions and splashier events. These are just a handful of the ideas outlined by Fred Wilson, president and chief executive officer of Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises, in his first major interview since joining the company in December. Wilson and his team are out to modernize the chain, restore its historic luster and develop a stronger personality that resonates with customers. Saks has for years struggled with its image due to management and ownership changes, See Wilson’s, Page6 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: KAYLEE QUILLING/SUPREME; HAIR BY DENNIS GOTSOULOS AT WARREN TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY DEBORA MAKEUP BY TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; WARREN AT DENNIS GOTSOULOS QUILLING/SUPREME; HAIR BY ERICKSEN; MODEL: KAYLEE KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 WWDMONDAY Ebel’s New Luxury Turn Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear GENERAL By Marc Karimzadeh Efraim the deal was completed March 1. Losses at Ebel were estimated Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises president and chief executive officer Fred Grinberg NEW YORK — Movado Group is at more than $15 million last 1 Wilson outlines plans to modernize and energize the firm. presenting Ebel in a new light, year, and Movado is now facing Michael Kors is launching watches for its better-priced Michael Michael literally. the challenge of integrating 11 Kors collection through a licensing deal with Fossil Inc. At the Baselworld Watch & Ebel into its operation while Jewelry Show, which opened in restoring its mid-Eighties prof- Movado is facing the challenge of integrating Ebel into its operation, while Basel, Switzerland, on Thursday, itability and splendor. 2 restoring its mid-Eighties profitability and splendor. the Paramus, N.J.-based watch Grinberg is up for the Ebel EYE: Celebrating Lilly Pulitzer’s new book…the Martha Graham Dance manufacturer is showcasing its challenge. Brimming with confi- 4 Company performs…a downtown event with “sexy chic attire.” newly acquired luxury Swiss dence at Movado’s contempo- Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 watch brand in a redesigned set- rary art-filled Paramus head- ting. Where once Ebel’s booth quarters earlier this month, he To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is was moody with black drapings couldn’t help but swoon about [email protected], using the individual’s name. and dark lighting, the new booth Ebel’s reputation, its history WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 design is one of the few in Basel and the future he and his com- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. to make use of natural daylight. pany envision for the brand. VOLUME 187, NO. 82. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional The symbolism isn’t lost on nicating a new message. We are “What we saw in Ebel was a issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Movado Group president and bringing daylight back to Ebel.” great brand that could comple- West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; chief executive Efraim Grinberg. Movado Group agreed to ac- ment our portfolio of existing Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, “The architecture won’t quire the Swiss luxury watch- ones and really be our ultimate Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- change, but the appearance will,” maker from LVMH Moët Hen- luxury brand,” Grinberg said. “It President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at said Grinberg of the Basel booth, nessy Louis Vuitton for $47 mil- had been very strong in the late additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration adding wryly, “It will be commu- lion in cash in December, and Continued on page 10 No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Will Bad News Lead to Consumer Blues? screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND By Jennifer Weitzman TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED NEW YORK — Although consumers seem to be in- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE creasingly resilient to the economic uncertainties ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. plaguing the market, many retail experts are con- cerned that a daily drumbeat of negative news — es- TUESDAY: Printsource and Direction shows, New York pecially during a presidential election year — could (through Wednesday). curb their spending habits. Coach reports on third-quarter sales and earnings. Moreover, retail analysts agree that the current Candie’s reports on fourth-quarter and year-end results. jobless recovery coupled with rising prices at the pump could prove to be damaging. WEDNESDAY: The Federal Reserve releases the Beige “Americans are trying very hard to live a nor- Book report. mal life despite all of these happenings,” said Despite war, high fuel costs and other Timberland, Oakley and Nu Skin report on first- Kurt Barnard, of Barnard’s Retail Trends Report, uncertainties, consumers remain resilient. quarter sales and earnings. adding that the job picture is “the one real fly in the ointment.” concerns. In an April 7 speech to the Little Rock THURSDAY: Sara Lee Corp., Bebe Stores and Unifi re- Kristin Bentz, a trend analyst with Kinney and Regional Chamber of Commerce in Arkansas, Wal- port on third-quarter earnings. Kinsella, a marketing and creative services firm, Mart president and chief executive officer Lee Sears, Roebuck & Co. and Reebok report on first- said, “The bottom line is: If you don’t have a job, Scott said the company was troubled about rising quarter sales and earnings. and if gas and heating oil expenses go up, that eats fuel and health care costs, calling on the federal Alberto-Culver reports on second-quarter sales and into household budgets. So you can’t afford to gas government to reform the latter, according to a re- earnings. up the car and you can’t go shopping.” port in the Arkansas Business Journal. Wal-Mart From a retailer’s perspective, there are other Continued on page 14 FRIDAY: Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show, New Yo rk (through Saturday).

SUNDAY: International Beauty Show, New York Calif. Worker-Comp Bill Passes COMING THIS(through WEEK April 27).

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller adopt the compromise measure. March fell about 8 percent to Schwarzenegger, who with- 86,300 jobs. In Los Angeles, the In Brief LOS ANGELES — Score one for drew his voter initiative on the figure dropped about 7 percent Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger matter Thursday, will sign the to 67,000 jobs. ● LIMITED SETTLEMENT: Limited Brands and its chief executive and quite possibly the state’s ap- bill in a ceremony today at the According to various esti- officer Leslie Wexner settled in February a 1999 shareholder law- parel community as well. Boeing facility in Long Beach mates, the reform measure, suit alleging that the rescission of a contingent stock redemption The California Legislature that is home to the C17 cargo SB899, authored by Sen. agreement “constituted a waste of corporate assets and a breach passed a landmark bill on airplane. “Our state can now be- Charles Poochigian (R-Fresno), of the board members’ fiduciary duties,” according to a filing with Friday to reform the state’s come once again the job-creat- could cut between $4 billion the Securities and Exchange Commission last week. Under terms costly workers compensation ing machine it once was,” the and $7 billion in costs out of of the settlement, Wexner and the company agreed to pay up to system after weeks of negotia- governor said in a statement. the state’s $22 billion system $10 million of the plaintiffs’ expenses, with the ceo to contribute tions with the governor, who The legislation aims to do so for aiding injured workers. For half of the amount necessary, in cash; the forfeiture of stock op- made the bill a top priority dur- by requiring employees to use the apparel industry — one of tions or other consideration, or as much as is necessary to limit ing last year’s gubernatorial re- doctors approved by their em- the sectors hardest hit by costly the firm’s contribution to $3 million. Additionally, Wexner, his call campaign. The Assembly ployers and insurance compa- state regulations — the bill immediate family members and affiliated entities have agreed passed the bill by a 77-3 vote nies; limiting more costly tem- could bring savings sooner not to sell any Limited shares during a buyback program that and the Senate voted 33-3 to porary disability payments to than later. “At least something ended March 26, and until September. The settlement is subject two years, with some exceptions has been done and businesses to several conditions, including approval by the Delaware Court in time period; reducing pay- don’t have to wait for the of Chancery, where the suit was filed. As of Feb. 27, Wexner ben- ments for injuries if a preexist- [November] initiative process eficially owned more than 61.2 million shares of the firm’s com- ing condition contributed to the to work, which wouldn’t have mon stock, or 11.7 percent of those outstanding. The issue closed work-related problem, and stan- brought relief till next year,” up 13 cents to $20.14 on the New York Stock Exchange Friday. dardizing workers’ impairment noted Jack Kyser, senior econo- ratings using American Medical mist at the Los Angeles County ● KMART’S CLASS: A federal district court judge in Detroit Association guidelines. Economic Development Corp. granted class-action status Friday to a lawsuit seeking to recoup Jobs and business retention “Companies have been on the the losses of Kmart employees who held shares of the retailer in are the reasons cited for the knife-edge waiting for savings, their 401(k) retirement plans when it went bankrupt in Jan. 2002, state’s three-year lag in eco- or else they plan to move out of according to published reports. The class is expected to be made nomic growth. Last month, state. For the apparel industry, up of more than 50,000 employees who collectively lost over $100 California added only 5,200 jobs which is a narrow margin in- million in their retirement plans. Defendants in the lawsuit re- compared with 308,000 jobs na- dustry, the concern is they’ll portedly include former chief executive officer Charles tionwide. Within the state’s ap- continue to move production Conaway and the current ceo James Adamson. parel industry, for example, offshore, unless business costs manufacturing employment in decrease.” Email: [email protected] Fax: 212.758.3403 Phone: 212.759.8055 Event An ENKInternational 9AM–6PM Daily, 9AM–5PMLastDay sun-tues, may2,3,4,2004 Photo &BusinessIDStrictlyEnforced forAdmission 12th Avenue at55thStreet, NYC The ShowPiers

accessoriecircuitintermezzocollections 4 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

Kimora Lee Rachel Simmons in Feinstein in Zac Posen. vintage and Flower Girls John Currin. With spring in bloom last Thursday, it was only fitting that Lilly Pulitzer arrived with daughter Liza for a lunch at Saks Fifth Avenue to celebrate her new book, eye® “Essentially Lilly.” Her wild and colorful prints graced everything from the tablecloths to the teacups, but didn’t stop there. Guests like Blair Husain and Kalliope Karella trotted out the first pastels of the season and even Pulitzer was over- come by the floral tribute. “I’ve never seen anything more beautiful than this,” she gushed. A few blocks away, Anna Zegna hosted a lunch for the Agnona women’s line at La Grenouille attended by Jacqueline Schnabel and Serena Boardman. For the fashionably minded, soirees abounded, as Celerie Kemble and Cynthia Lufkin made their way later that night to a cocktail party at the Celine boutique for the Lenox Hill Neighborhood House. The previous evening, at a performance by the Martha Graham Dance Company of Graham’s “The Owl and the Pussycat” at City Center, narrator Andre Léon Talley told of the unlikely pair that “danced by the light of the moon.” At the gala following the perform- ance, Rachel Feinstein and John Currin, Anne Bass, Eliza Reed Bolen and Oscar de la Renta had to settle for dancing by the honey-colored lighting of the Plaza Hotel. Though Talley seemed as comfortable on- stage as he does in a bespoke suit, he wasn’t anticipating any more performances in his future. “I have already chosen my career, and I am a fashion editor,” he announced grandly. The evening’s chair, Kimora Lee Simmons, resplendent in Zac Posen, explained why she had to have her perfectly fitted gown made-to-order. “Honey, I’ve had two kids — I don’t fit into couture,” she quipped. Downtown, the TriBeCa Ball’s “La Dolce Vita” event called for “sexy chic attire.” Christian Dior USA president Marla Sabo, clearly inspired by a recent trip to Latin America where she was scouting store locales, arrived in a red lacquered Dior dress. Amidst the glittering social crowd of Sally Albemarle, Jennifer Creel and Lauren du Pont, the diminutive but ever plucky Dr. Ruth Westheimer arrived in neither sexy, nor chic, attire. However, that didn’t stop the sex talk. When pressed by a gentleman to address his libidinal issues, Dr. Ruth groused, “I don’t want to talk about your sexual problems.”

Eliza Reed Bolen in Lauren du Pont Ricky and Ralph Lauren at the Anne Bass Oscar de inin RalphRalph Lauren.Lauren. Martha Graham Company gala. inin Prada.Prada. lala Renta.Renta. Alixe Boyer and Marla Sabo, both in Christian Dior at the TriBeCa Ball. Jennifer Creel inin Valentino.Valentino.

Lilly Pulitzer Pia Murphy with and Holly Liza Lauren Duff in Celine Dunlap Pulitzer at the Celine store. Jacqueline Schnabel in Chloé. Sally Albemarle Dr. Ruth Westheimer TRIBECA BALL AND MARTHA GRAHAM GALA BY STEVE EICHNER; PULITZER AND AGNONA LUNCHES: GEORGE CHINSEE; CELINE: PATRICK MCMULLAN GEORGE CHINSEE; CELINE: PATRICK STEVE EICHNER; PULITZER AND AGNONA LUNCHES: GALA BY GRAHAM TRIBECA BALL AND MARTHA WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 5

NFG This Brand Is Not for the Girls products NEW YORK — Two former execu- cused on,” said Marlowe, “the be a very good area to focus our tives of mass-market hair and product they use every day is a attention because there was not personal care manufacturers shampoo. The product they use a product in the market that was have created their own brand tar- right after that is a gel.” focused on this group.” geting teen boys and young men. The jug-like NFG shampoo Ye t NFG Stuff LLC is appar- Edward Marlowe, a former re- bottle was designed with blue ently not the only start-up that search and development execu- and white graphics to stand out considers this market untapped. tive at Bristol-Myers Squibb Co., among round shampoo bottles and Eugene Zeffren, who oversaw with “feminine touches” like marketing and R&D at Unilever soft colors, according to Mar- Home and Personal Care North lowe. The 15-oz. NFG shampoo BEAUTY BEAT America, have teamed to form retails for $6.99, as does the 4- NFG Stuff LLC. Their goal: to in- oz. tube of gel that’s designed P&G and a firm called OT troduce a hair care brand for 13- not to flake off. OverTime LLC — which was to 25-year-old males called NFG, Discussing his inspiration for founded by former P&G employ- or Not For Girls, at mass-market NFG, Marlowe said, “I saw how ees — have reached a licensing outlets in the next 12 months. young women embraced Herbal agreement to market hair and “We hope to be in the mass mar- Essences. When I retired, it just personal care to boys. ket by the end of the year or early came to me: [Male youths] could — Matthew W. Evans next year,” said Marlowe. “We’re looking at that very seriously.” Marlowe, who helped devel- op stalwart hair care collection Clairol Herbal Essences prior to Clairol’s acquisition in 2001 by Procter & Gamble, also played a part in the development of the numeric scale denoting SPF while at Schering-Plough Corp. in the early Seventies. We hope to be in“the mass market by the end of the year or early next year. — Edward Marlowe, NFG” Stuff

Meanwhile, Zeffren, who was president of Helene Curtis USA until its acquisition by Unilever in 1996, was instrumental in de- veloping the Finesse and Thermasilk brands. The two PhD’s have been pleased with an initial year-long trial of two NFG products — a shampoo and a hair gel — at about 175 college bookstores and a number of mom-and-pop skate, ski, surf and sporting goods shops, Marlowe noted. He believes that, during the next year, the brand has the po- tential to reach the $2 million to $5 million range in retail sales volume, including the planned mass-market distribution. The five-year plan is to make NFG a $25 million brand at retail. “We’ve learned a lot,” Marlowe said of the test marketing cam- paign. He cited consumer data ACCESSORIESTHESHOW from at least 500 males and addi- tional information from 20,000 visitors to nfgstuff.com. “Young men wanted a shampoo that had a masculine odor,” he said. “They MAY 2-4, 2004 didn’t want their hair soft but manageable without flyaways.” JAVITS CENTER, MANHATTAN Marlowe said the shampoo for- mula uses a special surfactant Shop over 800 lines of edited accessories system and a manageability agent designed to achieve those results. NFG’s scent is meant to evoke a Fall/Winter 2004 Collections classic barbershop because guys, Sunday - Monday 9am-6pm, Tuesday 9am-5pm according to Marlowe, don’t want 800-358-6678 • accessoriestheshow.com • exhibiting 212-686-4412 ext. 408 “fruity, citrus or bouquet” aromas. Marlowe expects to launch NFG at mass with at least four Also shop hair care products in the collec- tion. New items, however, are in preliminary planning stages. “We very strongly believe this will go beyond hair care,” said Marlowe, who added, “when you think our juried ready-to-wear about the products young men show running concurrently use and look at various cate- gories, there are three or four at the Javits Center areas we’d like to pursue.” As for AccessoriesTheShow and Moda Manhattan are properties of Business Journals, Inc. starting with a shampoo, “If you look at the consumer we’re fo- 6 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 Wilson’s Goal for SF

Clustering mannequins to make a statement. STORE PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE STORE PHOTOS BY

Continued from page one The flagship renovation is critical in establishing the of Financo Inc. “Since he took the job, he has visited wobbly strategies and increased competition. While the brand positioning. It’s possible that certain past renova- every store and met with all of the major vendors to per- team is hesitant about providing details about the future, it’s tions over the last two years, such as the array of luxury sonally understand their product and commitment to already emitting signals that big changes are on the horizon. accessories shops that line the main floor’s perimeter, rebuild Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises. He understands “We will make a powerful statement by brand and clas- could be undone. Over the past couple of years, men’s wear, brands and the strength of brands, and from his experi- sification,” said Wilson. “We are getting input from a lot of special sizes and jewelry departments also were re-creat- ence at LVMH, he has seen how department stores and resources.” ed, but a cosmetics overhaul for longer sight lines and a other retailers have built brands throughout the world. It The master plan for renovating and remerchandising design to enhance the main floor grandeur was put on hold. is fair to assume that, as time goes by, he will utilize these the Fifth Avenue flagship is in the works, and is expect- There’s speculation that the upcoming renovation skills in his analysis of the Saks Fifth Avenue franchise.” ed to be finalized by September, with construction seen will be more costly than the $100 million to $120 million Ron Frasch, the former Bergdorf Goodman ceo who is commencing in January. “The new plan will be very estimated by the previous regime a few years ago. Not all currently a Saks Inc. executive responsible for private grand and dramatic,” said Robert Wallstrom, senior vice of that was spent, and a good portion went for infra- label and international development, is also a believer in president and general manager of the flagship. structure improvements, such as air conditioning and big brand presentations. At Bergdorf ’s, he created Ahead of the hammering, alterations are evident on converting back rooms into selling space. “worlds” of Chanel and Giorgio Armani housing all or the selling floors — from earlier deliveries to fewer Though Wilson wouldn’t provide very much detail on most of a brand’s products in a single shop environment. markdowns, less merchandise and a greater population the renovation strategy, he stressed that Saks is seeking Saks, with its much greater space, could very well create of mannequins to show outfits and wardrobing alterna- “much more innovation” on the selling floors, both in a “universe” of Chanel or Vuitton, even duplicating assort- tives. “Even before making major changes, you can take terms of how brands are presented and how categories are ments in certain categories, such as handbags, in different what you have and energize it,” Wilson said. “This guy merchandised, and that the corporation sees an opportu- sections of the store. Frasch has not been given an official Wilson has been walking the floor every day.” nity to garner greater business from the flagship, which title but that’s expected to be cleared up in the future, Aside from making the daily rounds, he also has been accounts for about 25 percent of total volume. Having a although not imminently. Given his prior Bergdorf’s expe- holding what’s become known in the store as “town hall major Fifth Avenue presence, at just under 600,000 square rience and competitive restrictions imposed by his con- meetings.” They’re geared to lift the morale of the entire feet (gross), which is more than twice the size of Bergdorf tract there, the role he plays at Saks Fifth Avenue is cur- staff of Saks Fifth Avenue, and improve communica- Goodman, has been the prime advantage Saks has over its rently limited, but over time, those restrictions expire. tions. The team has been further motivated by the streak rival, the Neiman Marcus Group, parent of Bergdorf ’s. Two other key members of the new Saks team that will of strong monthly comp-store sales gains since last fall, Before Saks, Wilson ran Donna Karan International, influence the store’s direction and presentation are Andrew peaking at 25.2 percent in February and 20.6 percent in and before that, he was ceo of the LVMH Specialty Store Jennings, president and chief merchandising officer who March, as Saks rides the wave of consumer spending Retail division and ceo of the LVMH Fashion Group for formerly ran Holt Renfrew in Canada, and Terron Schaefer, helping many retailers, particularly luxury chains. For the Americas, where he dealt with Saks and other luxu- senior vice president of marketing who was worldwide cre- 2003, SFA’s comps rose 3.4 percent, putting the chain at ry retailers as a supplier. As part of his last assignment ative director at the Simon Property Group. Both are pre- $2.44 billion. Operating income was $108.5 million, up 6.9 at LVMH specialty retailing, Wilson oversaw the devel- disposed to create splashy, comprehensive merchandise percent from $101.5 million. opment of the huge Louis Vuitton flagship on Fifth and marketing promotions, so changes at Saks, both physi- The vision for Saks Fifth Avenue, which turns 80 next Avenue and 57th Street, which opened in February. It’s cally with the flagship and strategically, could entail a level year, will be largely set by Wilson. He’s been given a just that kind of statement that’s likely to inspire new of flamboyance not seen at the retailer in years. great deal of independence in reshaping Saks by parent presentations at the Saks flagship and its branches. “Saks is already well on its way to strengthening the Saks Inc. — and he reportedly insisted on it when he “He’s all about big brand presentations. It’s very much in talent on its organization, and next will be to give the joined the retailer. The Saks Inc. corporation is headed his background,” said one source. Another source said [chain] a universal point of view, so every Saks has the by R. Brad Martin, chairman and ceo, and Steve Sadove, Wilson will dispatch a group of Saks executives to Japan same panache and glitter as the flagship in New York,” vice chairman. Wilson reports to Sadove. to see how brands are presented in that nation’s depart- said Harry Bernard, executive vice president of San In part, the team’s vision calls for Saks to develop far greater ment stores. There, collections are often situated in Francisco-based Colton Bernard Inc. “That’s been one of drama and ease of shopping in its stores (not just the flagship), leased departments occupying good chunks of space, their most serious difficulties in the past. They’ve got to without a return to its carriage trade roots or an adoption of the 2,000 square feet or so, with a breadth of merchandise. go in the direction of luxury, to reposition on an equal cool edge of Barneys New York. How Saks will sharpen its iden- “Fred Wilson is bringing a clear vision of what he sees footing as Neiman Marcus. Fred Wilson’s ability to moti- tity is still being determined, Wilson said. the future will be for Saks,” said Gil Harrison, chairman vate is one of his strongest assets.” WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 7 FA: A Distinct Image

Among the other changes Wilson and his team have Asked what areas are performing the best, Wilson major cities in Japan, beginning in 2005. Saks also said it initiated: replied, “We’re doing well everywhere, especially in was considering Beirut in 2005 or 2006. South America ● An advertising and branding firm, Fallon Worldwide, bridge, contemporary, shoes, accessories and designers. also could be fertile ground, considering Saks has so has been commissioned to help identify a branding strat- “The men’s business is smaller than we would like it to many Latin customers, but there are no definite sites. egy. Hiring the agency was one of the first steps taken by be as a percent of the total, but it’s going very nicely. It’s However, that strategy may take a different route. Wilson, who also worked with the agency at Donna Karan. on its way.” Smaller businesses at the store, such as inti- Asked if the plan is still to open licensed stores abroad, Fallon’s research on the Donna Karan consumer and mate apparel, are said to be less robust, as well. Wilson replied, “We are not sure, ultimately, what form brand image became a tool for developing new strategies. As an example, Wilson pointed out that three weeks [the strategy] will take.” ● Increased editing of assortments and far less price ago, a 2,200-square-foot Armani Collezioni men’s shop on Private label represents just 4 to 5 percent of the retail- promoting on the selling floors. “Part of the vision of six was opened. It has upgraded lighting, a marble floor er’s total volume of about $3 billion, including direct busi- Saks Fifth Avenue as a quality enterprise means much and tall, monotone, gray walls. Wilson noted. nesses and outlets. “We believe in private label. It will be an fewer sales events,” Wilson said. “In a big way, Armani represents the Saks point of important part of the business,” Wilson said. Asked if he ● Accelerated deliveries. Executives say for spring, in view. We’re putting merchandise out to see in an easy, wants to increase private label, Wilson replied, “Probably, some cases, designer brands hit the selling floor 30 to 60 simple way so it’s not overwhelming,” said Wallstrom. but we are reviewing it carefully now.” days ahead of last year, though they acknowledged the The old Armani shop was more walled in and had 24 suits The outlet strategy is also under scrutiny. While, since seeds of earlier deliveries were sown last year under the in a style on the floor. Now there’s three, and a lot more its inception, Saks has generally been pleased with the previous regime headed by Christina Johnson. in the storage room,” Wallstrom noted. “There’s about productivity of the outlets, in the past, some Saks execu- ● Mannequins and other visual displays to provide one-third of the merchandise on the floor and about two- tives have expressed reservations about the value the what Wilson refers to as a “look book” approach to show- thirds in the back. It was just the opposite before.” units bring to the Saks image and whether the company ing a wider range of styles to suit different shoppers. “We He also said the shop has better service, with four or opened too many outlets, which made it challenging to are showing you how you can personalize your style,” five sales associates on the floor at any given time. get enough good designer merchandise to present allur- Wilson explained. “When you step off the escalators, The Dolce & Gabbana shop on three was also ing assortments off-price at each location. Currently, immediately you come upon something. We’ve more than redesigned recently, shedding a heavy, deep burgundy look there are 54 units around the country. Asked about its doubled the mannequins in the last 90 days.” for a more modern, clean and open appearance, and on current performance and if the concept had room for On the fourth floor, for designer collections, there is 30 the main floor, a luxury handbag shop mixing Lambertson growth, Wilson said, “We are trying to maximize the busi- to 50 percent less merchandise compared with a year ago. Truex, Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Dolce & ness in its current format. Right now, it is doing fine.” “The floor has been messed with big time,” Wilson said. Gabbana, Celine and Fendi was created in one area Among the regular-priced Saks Fifth Avenue stores, The fifth floor, for contemporary collections, also has behind cosmetics. “It’s a modern presentation that makes the presentation has been erratic, with about 12 to 15 been edited down. “The most dramatic changes have it easier for the consumer to shop,” Wallstrom said. locations said to be weak. Saks would close some doors, been on four and five,” Wilson said. “There were too Saks also is trying to make sharper fashion statements but it’s not that simple, due to lease obligations. many brands and too many products.” by mixing items and outfits from a brand in a floor presen- However, Wilson implied that quality standards will “There’s energy here,” he added. “People are excit- tation. On five, for example, there’s an array of mannequins be raised wherever Saks is situated. Asked about flag- ed. Business is up. Products are being delivered earlier, featuring DKNY, Joie, Diesel and Juicy Couture to spotlight ship enhancements translating to branches, Wilson said, and we have been trying to accelerate deliveries as early the current golf-active trend in casual sportswear. “We see opportunities right through the chain,” though as possible. Much of this was being put in place before I Saks sees expansion in the broadest terms, and last for years, Saks has been hampered by agreements ven- got here. I have to credit the merchants for getting this year announced a strategy for building stores overseas dors have with Neiman’s and other competitors. started. We have a lot of good people. via a network of licensing arrangements. At the time, “We will be putting in the SFA brand filter in as many “The whole design of spring has lifted the business, Saks said it plans to open a total of four stores in the places as we can, as quickly as we can. Part of the vision absolutely,” Wilson added, referring to the season’s color- United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain, begin- is that we believe in consistency,” Wilson stated. “We ful offerings and how they are displayed in Saks stores. ning this year, and between five and 10 Saks stores in think all great brands have consistency.”

A cleaner presentation at the flagship. Ron Frasch Robert Wallstrom

The new Saks team: Andrew Jennings Fred Wilson Terron Schaefer The Armani Collezioni shop sets a new standard at Saks. 8 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 FAccessoriesall Report Handbags: More

By Emilie Marsh Balenciaga’s mini lariat bag. PARIS — It’s a moment of handbag peace, or perhaps just the calm before the storm. European luxury goods firms typically wage a handbag war during the designer collections here and in Milan, but the recent round of fall shows didn’t give bags the expected front-and-center status. That’s not to say there weren’t any great handbags shown, but for fall, no clear must-have winner emerged in the vein of Louis Vuitton’s blockbuster Takashi Murakami collaboration a few seasons ago or Fendi’s Baguette phenomenon in the Nineties. Instead, retailers are seeing a move away from iconic pieces and toward several styles that give women a more individualized look. In addition, handbags are starting to face stiff competition for women’s disposable income from categories such as shoes and jewelry. That said, retailers agreed the handbag business continues to be vital, even as they predict a move away from logos and obvious “It” bags to more individual tastes. “It’s still a hot category,” said Julie Gilhart, vice president of merchandising at Barneys New York, echoing many other international buyers. “The [bag] business is strong.” Anne Pitcher, buying director of women’s wear, accessories and men’s wear at Harvey Nichols, agreed: “It’s still all about accessories and handbags are the drivers of that business. On the runways this season, we saw a strong focus on all sorts of accessories, including jewelry, corsages and scarves — lots of accessories for the upper parts of the body.” Buyers cited exotic skins, whether real or fake, charm-like decorations, color and extremes in size as key directions for handbags next season. They also identified scores of individual bags as potential bestsellers from some of the biggest names in luxury, with Luella Bartley and Gabriela Corto Moltedo emerging as names to watch. “Individuality is coming into play more. Women are hunting out a point of

Dior’s Gambler bag.

C elin e’s cr oco dile El la b ag. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 9 Than One Must-Have

Chloé’s Siverado bag in brown snakeskin.

Prada’s Skipper bags.

PHOTOS BY FRED BOYADJAN AND FREDERIC FREAUD

difference within their bag selection,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford, which is “aggressively” expanding its handbag category. Still, with many Asian customers buying two or three branded bags per season, she said the trend is toward multiple “Its.” Among her favorites for fall were Marc Jacobs’ bags and Chloé’s beaded half-moon and pocketed snakeskin styles, as well as the entire Luella Bartley collection. Jonathan Joselove, associate merchandise manager for accessories at Neiman Marcus, said he was pleased by the diversity in styles, “from top-handle framed bags to bowlers to hobos, which will satisfy our clientele, from the Ladies Who Lunch to the career women.” Joselove also noted the use of bright colors for the upcoming season. “An exciting evolution in handbags is that, rather than having one must-have handbag each season, the must-have handbag now is chosen from the various collections we house,” he said. “While iconic bags remain important in our handbag business, it is the actual handbag that has become a must-have for our woman, which enables her to further personalize her own style statement.” Gilhart noted the plethora of charms on handbags: robots at Prada, oversized metal dice at Christian Dior and globular leather change purses at Balenciaga. She also noted that bags have become larger and more practical, like Stella “Customers don’t want the same bag everyone else has,” she said. “In a small way, McCartney’s travel bag and Celine’s doctor style. that’s why charms are likely to be so successful. You can customize your bag.” “Logo bags sell less than other bags because they are the hardest to wear,” said Among standouts she noted were Prada’s vaguely boat-shaped “Skipper” bag and Alla Verber, vice president of the Mercury Group in Moscow. Balenciaga’s variations on its classic lariat in quirky colors or miniaturized. She also Although she cited a sharp rise in demand for shoes over handbags, Verber said praised Lanvin’s variations on the messenger bag and Marni’s mock-croc styles. she would expand her bag buy to include Marc Jacobs and Bottega Veneta. Her Anna Garner, head of fashion at Selfridges, said she expects fall to be a strong prediction for winners: Prada’s crocodile bag and anything with color. season for jewelry, giving handbags a run for consumers’ money. Majed Al-Sabah, owner of Villa Moda stores in Kuwait and Dubai, predicted “People are more individual at the moment,” Garner said. “No one wants a head- Gucci’s bag with a dragon buckle and a Fendi bag with a frame handle would be to-toe look.” “blockbusters.” In that vein, she praised the futuristic handbag look at Balenciaga, Prada’s elegant Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, accessories, Chloé’s jeweled bags and Corto Moltedo’s debut line. agreed with the assured success of the Gucci collection. Ed Burstell, vice president and general manager of Henri Bendel, lauded Bartley’s “The must-have handbags will probably be the Gucci handbags because they’re entire handbag collection and also singled out Chloé’s snakeskin bag as likely winners. going to be collectors’ items,” he said. “There aren’t so many logos anymore,” said Sarah Lerfel, buyer for Colette in —With contributions from Robert Murphy, Paris; Paris. “It’s more about a signature bag.” Samantha Conti, London, and Anamaria Wilson, New York

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Accessories Returning the Luster to Ebel

Continued from page 2 Gauderlot still heads up global sales, and Eighties and early Nineties, but under two Marc Michel-Amadry remains as Ebel’s different ownerships, it lost its way some- international marketing director. what. We know we will put it back on the “We will run it as an independent brand right path toward regaining its rightful the way we run all of our brands,” said position as a luxury brand.” Grinberg. “We don’t have management To help achieve this, Movado will: across brands. The synergies we will have ● Restore Ebel’s emphasis on gold are in the back office, meaning distri- watches. bution, after-sales service and accounting ● Make a strong marketing push functions, and on the supply-chain side.” worldwide with a new advertising Ebel will add a high-end, prestigious initiative. label to Movado’s portfolio and will give the ● Continue with Ebel’s exclusive U.S. firm more leverage internationally. global distribution in 1,500 doors world- Seventy percent of Ebel’s sales are outside wide, including 300 in the U.S. the U.S., Grinberg noted, “I think we will see Grinberg believes Movado will be able opportunities to grow the brand in the U.S., to turn Ebel around thanks to its past but also internationally because if we do the experience with luxury brands. Until the right things from an advertising, product mid-Nineties, Movado was the distributor for Piaget and Corum watches in the U.S., and the company is largely credited with Ebel’s new Tarawa introducing and building those brands Chronograph Yellow Gold here. In 1997, Movado sold the Piaget and Limited Edition. Corum distribution rights back to the individual brands to focus on lines for which it could control product development and marketing. Movado Group operates the Movado, Concord and ESQ brands, as well as the licensed Coach and lines. Last month, the co- mpany reported double-digit earnings growth for its fourth quarter and year. For the year, earnings rose 13.9 To that end, the co- Co., which also works on other Movado percent to $22.9 million, or mpany plans to increase brands. Movado’s U.S. advertising budget $1.84 a share, from $20.1 Ebel’s gold assortment for Ebel will be approximately $5 million. million, or $1.65 a share, in over the next six to 18 The Ebel acquisition has been large- the previous year. Sales for months, though Grinberg ly applauded. the year ramped up 10 per- wouldn’t disclose details. Eric Beder, an independent retail cent to $330.2 million. Typically, retail price consultant here, said Movado’s acquisi- Ebel, founded by Eugene points for Ebel watches tion is a nice deal. “It gives Movado Blum and Alice Levy in 1911 in La In Basel, Ebel launched this start at about $1,200 and go another luxury maker.” However Beder Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, watch, called Moon Chic. up to $500,000. With more gold said Movado should have done the deal remained a small, European-focused in its assortment, Grinberg said through stock options to get some business until Pierre Alain Blum, the the average retail price point, liquidity from it, rather than the all-cash founders’ grandson, took over the oper- which currently hovers around deal valued at about $47.3 million. ation. Blum started extending the brand’s $4,000, will rise “incrementally.” However, Beder did give Movado’s visibility internationally and is credited “We are looking at this as a jewel,” he management the thumbs up for its with building Ebel’s recognition with U.S. added. “We are not looking at how big we decision in March to issue a 2-for-1 stock consumers. Ebel entered the U.S. market can grow this in sales. It’s about split of an increase in the company’s in 1979 with the Sport Classic line. Since and attention-to-detail point of view, from positioning it as our ultimate luxury authorized shares. then, it has launched a variety of watch packaging to displays to catalogue and brand. We are really all about continuing Beder said the next step is for Movado styles, including the Beluga, which is brochures, it will help Ebel worldwide.” to build the Ebel brand in an organized to take Ebel to the next level in terms of available in 18-karat yellow gold, stainless Movado plans to cement Ebel’s image manner in the luxury category, rather getting more liquidity to its stock. “There is steel and a cuff version, called the Beluga as a luxury brand through product and than saying, ‘We are going to turn it from just not enough for major investors to pay Manchette. LVMH purchased Ebel for an marketing. $60 to $100 million.’” attention to,” Beder said. To do that, Beder undisclosed sum from Bahrain-based “The emphasis on luxury will change,” In addition, Movado will introduce a said Movado can perform a stock offering Investcorp in 1999. Grinberg said. “The brand before was more new marketing initiative for Ebel. In to get liquidity, noting its share are trading Since acquiring Ebel, Movado has concerned with producing volume, and we September, a new advertising campaign close to its 52-week high. Another option, eliminated 70 employees from the brand’s will now focus a great deal on bringing back will bow in fashion and upscale general Beder said, is for its founders to sell off operations in Switzerland, though it will the gold business, which virtually had not interest magazines. Currently in the shares and reduce their position. continue to be based in La Chaux-de- been a significant presence in the Ebel development stage, the campaign will Still, for now Beder said he sees clear Fonds. Top managers also remain: Randi brand for a number of years. As a luxury likely market the Beluga line, as well as skies ahead for the luxury market, noting Shinske continues as president and chief brand, we believe that we have to have a Tarawa, a watch design launched last he does not believe there to be a slow executive officer of Ebel USA Inc., Xavier strong position with gold watches.” year. The ads will be created by Lloyd & down as the economy continues to boom.

Real Customers. Real Jewelry.

From the tarnish free platinum-tone giftable collection. Empire State Building, Suite 6712, 401•941•7700, www.danecraft.com WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 11

Michael’s stainless steel bracelet watch Michael on Time and leather and NEW YORK — It’s about time for Michael. tortoise watch. Michael Kors (USA) Inc. is launching watches for its better-priced Michael Michael Kors collection. The women’s and men’s watches are being de- signed, developed and distributed in a licensing deal with watch behe- moth Fossil Inc. “A timepiece is one of the most personal things a man or woman can wear,” Kors said. “Our watches will be the perfect mix of form and func- tion; with Fossil on board, I know they will execute my vision perfectly.” John D. Idol, chief executive officer at Michael Kors, added that he and Kors partners Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou believe in building Kors into a lifestyle brand. “Watches help complete our circle,” Idol noted. Kors is joining a growing number of American sportswear designers and fashion houses in the watch arena, including Calvin Klein Inc., which pro- duces watches with Swatch Group; Donna Karan International, which has DKNY watches with Fossil; Tommy Hilfiger, which has a watch license with Movado Group, and Bill Blass, which relaunched its watch business last year with Omni Watch & Clock. For Fossil, adding Kors to its watch portfolio strengthens its presence on department store main floors. The company holds the watch licenses for such lines as Emporio Armani, Diesel and Burberry. Fossil also manufactures watch- es under the Fossil, Relic and Zodiac brands. Last month, it acquired Tempus International Corp., which operates under the Michele Watches moniker, for $50 million in cash. The Michael collection is expected to stay true to Kors’ signature design aesthetics across classic, fashion and sport styles. It will come in genuine leather straps and stain- less steel bracelets, with such details as top leather stitching, colored faces and earth- tone straps. Examples include a rectangular steel watch with a bracelet designed from linked MKs taken from the Michael collection’s signature MK logo, and a square-case choco- late-tone watch with a link rugged leather and tortoise strap. The collection will be priced at retail from $75 to $250. The watches will be launched this fall in conjunction with Michael apparel and accessories, which are set to debut in department stores in August. — Marc Karimzadeh

The Teichmans have not tinkered with the merchandise Ylang-Ylang’s sleek mix in the new location. Waterman, who was a surprise guest store is between Cartier Ylang-Ylang Spreads Out at the opening party and will make a rare personal appearance and Louis Vuitton at the on May 6, is the largest resource. Other key collections are Dallas Galleria. By Holly Haber Devon Page McCleary, Me & Ro, Ten Thousand Things and Dana Kellin. The store picked up Ileana Makri and will con- DALLAS — “It’s like a grown-up store,” said Charles Teichman, tinue with Barry Kronen, Gurhan, Jeanine Payer, Renee surveying his recently moved Ylang-Ylang jewelry boutique at the Garvey and Shaesby. Galleria here. “After 18 years, we’ve reached adulthood.” The new store may have an extra 80 square feet of selling The sleek new store, located in a prime spot between Cartier space, but it actually displays less jewelry. and Louis Vuitton, is a dramatic improvement over Ylang-Ylang’s “Our average inventory is the same, but we will work more former home, in a turquoise and pink kiosk nestled under an from back stock and drawers,” Joanne Teichman explained. “In escalator in the same mall. the old store, I filled every space with a case, and we won’t do With its blond sycamore wood cases and soft pink Venetian that here. We’ll keep it clean.” plaster accents, the sophisticated decor is a more suitable backdrop for Ylang-Ylang’s designer jewelry business, which brought in nearly $3 million in sales last year — in the kiosk’s 480-square-foot selling space. “I expect it to keep going up,” said Teichman’s wife, Joanne, who holds the title of chief merchant. “Our December was up 33 percent over a record month in 2002.” Sales are trending up since the new store, which opened in January, is luring additional customers who previously passed by the little kiosk. Charles Teichman recalled a female client who came to the new boutique saying how happy she was to find Cathy Waterman jewelry at the mall. “I said [to her], ‘We’ve been here 18 years and carried Waterman for six years,’ and she said, ‘No you were not,’” he said. “People Blond wood and pale pink and cream come in and think it’s a new store to the mall. It’s the packaging. You colors accent Ylang-Ylang’s interior. spend half a million dollars and you look better and proper.” PHOTOS BY GEORGE MAYO HENSON GEORGE MAYO PHOTOS BY

A Division of Orion Fashions 20 West 36th Street New York, NY 10018 212.563.5420 Fax 212.594.8473 www.koolkonnections.com 12 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

Accessories

collection of sunglasses and ophthalmic frames for holiday 2004. Merrell Strides Into Bags Adhering to island style, the FINDINGS sunglass designs will feature tropical colors and will be distributed at SALT LAKE CITY — After more than two decades focusing on footwear, Merrell is now betting on bags. EXECUTIVE NEWS: Accessory Design Tommy Bahama boutiques and The offerings include two collections, Outventure Packs and Transit Bags, as well as a condensed Holdings, based in Seattle, has specialty retailers and resorts. Prices line of small accessories, which will arrive at stores in June. Styles range from larger messengers bags, promoted Eileen Warner to haven’t been set yet. backpacks and computer bags to wheelie luggage and pouches for the company’s smaller items. president, a new post. Warner joined “We have established a loyal customer base and strong retail partnerships with our footwear the company in October in its New COUTURE MOVES: The Couture line,” noted Jacques Lavertue, president of Merrell’s parent company, Wolverine Worldwide Inc. York office as vice president of sales Jewellery Collection & Conference is “Developing packs and bags is a natural extension of our brand and a logical next step to world- and marketing for its Isabella Fiore moving to Las Vegas next year. But wide growth.” and Talberry divisions. Prior to that, those who have become accustomed But the collections are not what one might expect from a rugged, outdoor shoe company. she was vice president and to the spa-like amenities offered in Merrell’s footwear injects more and more fashion each season, so the company decided to take that divisional merchandise manager of Scottsdale, Ariz. for the last two years, direction with its bags, as well. While the Out- handbags and soft accessories at need not fret. The show at the Wynn venture line is designed to be more functional Saks Fifth Avenue, where she Las Vegas resort and casino is and appeals to a rugged outdoor customer, We have established a loyal worked for 25 years. expected to open in April 2005 and “ In related news, ADH’s have even more luxury features, like customer base and strong Isabella Fiore division hired Javan flat-screen TVs, private massage A Merrell backpack Bunch as president of footwear, a rooms in each suite and the only golf retail partnerships with our new post. Bunch joined the course on the Las Vegas Strip, where company from Joan & David, the hotel is located. footwear line. where he was president of In addition, the show and — Jacques Lavertue,” footwear and licensing. In his new conference, which is organized by post, he will oversee design, VNU Jewelry Group, a division of Wolverine Worldwide Inc. sales, production, finance and VNU Expositions Inc., is operations of this division. celebrating its 10th anniversary, Transit aims for a more and to mark the occasion, this fashion-forward customer. LOVE, LULU: There is nothing year’s edition will be themed “A With the urban customer in haphazard about the world of Lulu Decade of Elegance.” The annual mind, many of the smaller Guinness. From smart, vintage- Couture Design Awards Gala will bags come with music and/or inspired pumps to chic striped feature “Tonight Show” host Jay hydration ports for ease of umbrellas, the Lulu Guinness girl Leno. The show and conference management of headphone has everything she needs to achieve will be held from May 29 to June cords or hydration tubes. a pulled-together look. 2 at the Desert Ridge Resort & Suggested retail prices in Now her manners of Spa in Phoenix. the Outventure line range correspondence are getting the from about $85 for a small Guinness polish. The brand, under PLAY TIME: It’s likely a number of backpack up to $230 for a license with Minneapolis-based NBA players have purchased a wheelie suitcase, while Tran- Mara-Mi Inc., introduced a thing or two from bling-king Jacob sit prices go from $42 for a stationery line that arrived in Lulu “The Jeweler” Arabo. Now, with a small bag up to $160 for a Guinness boutiques this month. The new line of watches being produced wheelie. In addition to the collection of thank-you cards, in a partnership between the NBA two lines, there is a selection address books, journals, memo pads, and Arabo’s Jacob & Co., basketball of cosmetic and personal postcards and note cards retails from fans can get in on the action. items that retail from about $2.25 to $9.75 — and pictures The watches come in two sizes, $6 to $50. Company execu- Guinness’ favored illustrations such 40 and 47 millimeter, and are tives declined to give sales as handbags, makeup and sayings offered in stainless steel or projections for the lines. like “Be a Glamour Girl” and diamond bezels. Dials will be in The primary retail focus “Couture Forever.” colors matching the particular NBA will be outdoor specialty stores, team’s logo. Two additional leather but Keith Anderson, director of BAHAMA SUN: Tommy Bahama knows bands will be sold with each marketing, said all channels of the best accessory for its tropical-print watch, but there is the option to Merrell’s current distribution shirts is a nice pair of shades, and spring for a custom-made diamond have expressed interest in car- now the firm is going after that band for $50,000. So maybe rying the bags, including some business, too. In a licensing deal with they’re not for a typical teenage fan department stores. California-based Altair Eyewear, with a poster of Jason Kidd in his — Melonee McKinney Tommy Bahama will launch a bedroom. Even the $6,300 base retail price is pretty steep. The watches will be available at the NBA Store on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. The International Fashion Jewelry and Accessory Show HIT THE SAC: LeSportsac is conquering the City of Light. After IFJAG selling exclusively for the last few seasons at the hip Paris fashion NEW YORK and design emporium Colette, the New York-based label has begun THE NAKED TRUTH... EVERYONE NEEDS ACCESSORIES! branching out. LeSportsac has opened in-store stores at the Printemps and Bon Marche Inspiration, department stores. The 60-model range retails from $15 for a wallet creativity and to $175 for a large tote. originality. FLYING THE FLAG: San Francisco- Come join us based Jeanine Payer, best known for her chunky silver and and be gold pieces hand engraved with prepared to be poetry, opened her first boutique there at 762 Market Street last inspired. month. After 15 years of distribution at both department stores and specialty boutiques, MAY 2ND thru MAY 5TH the brand is finally getting its own digs. The streamlined red- Roosevelt Hotel and-white space will house the Madison Avenue at 45th Street jewelry collection in its entirety, including Payer’s recent foray Show hours 9am to 6pm into earrings and jewelry for infants. With Payer’s workshop Wholesale and volume buyers only. upstairs, the shop will also serve Children under 12 not admitted. as an outlet where the jeweler INTERNATIONAL FASHION JEWELRY can offer customers one-of-a- 401.295.4564 www.jewelrytradeshows.com AND ACCESSORY GROUP kind pieces. Fashion Jewelry • Accessories • Gifts • Hair Accessories • Watches WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 13

Innerwear Report Retail Challenge: Keep Up Momentum

By Karyn Monget NEW YORK — The first quarter of 2004 may have been a lot rosier than year-ago sales for lingerie, but retailers are nonetheless cautious. Compared with the overall stagnant retail environment in 2003, lingerie business generally managed to break even or, in some cases, gain single-digit growth with key items and classifications such as daywear and special oc- casion, as well as merchandise with a funky, fashion edge. This continues to be the case this spring as merchants size up their business and look ahead to fall and holiday, a critical period when inventories will ideally be flattened and lingerie departments will be prepped with fresh product. The key issue for many retailers will be to keep the momentum going, and at the same time cultivate and grow the loyalty of consumers who are distracted by a number of broader issues: the worry over jobs, rising gas prices, the presidential election and the war in Iraq. To maintain the market activity, retailers are wooing consumers with several strategies: ● Expansion into new brands with updated looks for a younger consumer base. ● Merchandising lingerie on the ready-to-wear floor. ● A stronger focus on important high-end names. ● Enhanced customer service. ● Wider assortments of styles and sizes. Jennifer DeWinter, general merchandise manager of intimate ap- parel, , accessories and fine and fashion jewelry at Saks Fifth Avenue, said: “As we grow and expand our customer base, we will need to continue expanding the products to support those customers’ needs. If we go after a more modern customer, we’ll develop assort- ments accordingly. Although we’ve had increases, there are bigger La Perla’s new Manhattan boutique reflects the and greater opportunities than we are currently getting. “The challenge,” added DeWinter, “is to continue to grow at a higher hip attitude of La Perla Black Label. increase. There are enough other businesses that are strong or stronger, such as fine jewelry, and I would like to see intimate apparel there.” DeWinter said the recent announcement of plans to move intimate apparel to the rtw floor by Saks’ chief exec- utive officer Fred Wilson is a key opportunity for increased growth. “Maybe moving in or adjacent to ready-to- wear will give intimate apparel a special opportunity,” she said. However, DeWinter cautioned that such opportunities should be analyzed carefully, noting that traditional La Petite Coquette creates an boudoir fare may not be the perfect companion to a funky rtw department. enjoyable shopping experience with Linda LoRe, president and ceo of Frederick’s of Hollywood, observed, “We’re at a time when the economy is amusing murals and a mix of fashion PETITE COQUETTE PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; LA GEORGE CHINSEE PERLA KYLE PETITE COQUETTE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY starting to turn, and that’s a nice thing. The biggest challenge for us as a retailer is recognizing which channels lingerielingerie andand boudoirboudoir accessories.accessories. consumers are shopping, what is motivating them to shop those channels and how we can be there for them. We LA have to make sure our brands are shored up and make it a pleasant shopping experience for our customers.” LoRe further noted, “Customer service is the main issue as it per- tains to what a customer needs and wants. We have to continue deliv- ering the best customer service regardless of which channel — cata- logue, stores or our Web site — the customer decides to shop in.” “I feel we’ve brought in a lot of new and young brands, and that’s been great,” said Roopal Patel, women’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. “Everything looks so fresh and young and the fashion and patterns are terrific. Our sales staff has embraced all of this newness tremendously. But the challenge is to keep that momentum going.” At Bergdorf ’s, several brands generating newness with a rtw fla- vor include Paul & Joe, which does contemporary and camis, and Leigh Bantivoglio, a specialist of updated lace daywear in a full range of fashion colors, said Patel. Bob Pawlak, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of intimate apparel, furs and coats at Carson Pirie Scott, did not want to discuss details of certain strategies, but he said upscale names were a key incentive. “We are working on initiatives to intensify some higher-end brands, what I call sizzle resources, and that is consuming a lot of our time,” he said. “But I don’t know if I consider that our greatest challenge. It’s a fun and rewarding strategy.” However, Pawlak acknowledged that keeping customer traffic flowing through intimate apparel departments was challenging. “We do have a number of initiatives to generate traffic. It’s very reward- ing when you have new merchandise moving,” he said. Gianluca Flore, ceo of La Perla USA, which operates eight bou- tiques in the U.S. and 63 worldwide, said, “It is imperative to make American women aware of the importance of lingerie, as it is the key accessory in a woman’s wardrobe. La Perla’s main focus contin- ues to be a world leader in producing innovative silhouettes with exclusive quality and development.” He added the launch this year of La Perla Black Label, a lingerie brand aimed at a hip, younger consumer, is the result of La Perla’s “passion for creativity and in- novative fabrics.” For some specialty boutiques, comfort is the primary draw. Chris Legatski, owner of the Santa Fe-based lingerie boutique Allure, said, “My issue right now is . I’m doing extraordinarily well with everyday, basic bras. But there’s a continued resistance to fashion and specialty bras and that can only be worn with certain items. And I have a lot invested in fashion items. This isn’t the fashion capital of the world. I may have some very wealthy cus- tomers, but they want comfort. That’s the lifestyle here.” Legatski said her best-selling brands are , Hanro, Gemma, Le Mystere and Cosabella. Rebecca Apsan, owner of La Petite Coquette, a lingerie shop in Manhattan, said “fulfilling customers’ needs” is her first priority, followed by keeping up with competition from rtw operations that sell lingerie. “Inventory — that’s the problem,” said Apsan. “They’ll buy six of something, and I’ll be out of that style in that size. I can’t fulfill the amount of merchandise people want. I’ll just have to buy more. And trends — everybody is now much more lingerie knowledgeable. So many apparel stores are selling lingerie that it’s unbelievable.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

Financial Weekly Stock Index Bad News Might Hamper Retailers 52-Week P/E Sales Amt High Low (000’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers Continued from page 2 propelled in part by middle-in- ing the economy slowly recov- shells out $2 billion annually on come shoppers who are choos- er,” he said. At Gottschalks, con- 17.95 3.76 Bon-Ton Stores 11.8 3010 16.50 0.32 health care, according to Scott. ing to buy food in bulk and then sumers are responding favor- 19.30 12.51 Dillard’s 157.6 27215 17.39 0.18 In his 40-minute talk, Wal- are finding deals on everything ably to color (pink), short skirts 55.06 28.90 Federated 14.0 72766 53.30 0.97 Mart’s ceo also said he was con- from apparel to personal care and flip-flops this spring. 6.48 1.05 Gottschalks 27.3 688 5.97 -0.24 cerned that negative political ads products while in-store. Famalette believes California 35.19 15.57 J.C. Penney 28.6 164057 35.04 0.40 — presumably those sponsored A spokeswoman for Natick, residents, who have suffered the by Kerry or liberal lobbyist Move- Mass.-based BJ’s Wholesale ac- highest gas prices in the coun- 36.48 19.93 May Dept. Stores 22.9 65460 33.54 0.38 On.org — would portray the coun- knowledged the role the chain’s try, have largely adjusted to 8.60 1.70 Retail Ventures - 2820 7.50 -0.80 try as in bad shape and inflame 78 gas stations have played in prices of $2 a gallon or more. On 17.92 8.44 Saks 29.2 37252 17.50 0.33 consumer worries over unem- recent weeks in attracting shop- the terrorist front, Famalette be- 56.06 26.10 Sears 3.5 94407 42.26 0.00 ployment and outsourced jobs. pers. Gas sales have increased lieves consumers have accepted 46.81 31.27 Target 21.6 180896 44.28 0.11 The unemployment rate has during that period, she said. that a possible attack could 61.31 50.50 Wal-Mart 28.5 478667 58.44 1.75 been hovering just below 6 per- “Anytime there is a national occur but is hard to predict. “We cent for the past few months. spike in gas prices, consumers be- Continued on opposite page Most economists get jittery when come more conscious of their gas Softline Retailers it rises above that mark. Mean- purchases and seek lower-cost al- 47.15 21.46 Ann Taylor 18.4 39962 42.63 1.37 while, there have been signs that ternatives, making BJ’s a destina- Biggest Percentage Changes 5.97 0.73 Bluefly - 4705 3.20 -0.10 middle-income consumers are in- tion during a time when con- For Week Ending April 16 22.50 15.45 Burlington Coat 17.7 2621 19.55 0.32 creasingly making more cost-con- sumers are looking for ways to Gainers Close Change 8.22 3.94 Charming Shoppes 20.9 26909 7.60 -0.05 scious, value-driven choices. save money and time,” she said. Tarrant Apparel 2.21 30.77 Target Corp.’s March results, On the West Coast, retailers Mossimo 4.36 7.92 47.60 18.80 Chico’s FAS 38.6 43786 45.31 1.11 for example, which were driven are optimistic. “In all honesty, I Alberto Culver 46.51 4.38 18.72 12.20 Dress Barn 67.2 2740 17.07 -0.35 by the flagship division, were don’t think we’re seeing any- Foot Locker 26.24 3.55 27.59 10.10 Foot Locker 18.4 55770 26.24 0.90 strong enough that chairman thing negative in consumer Ann Taylor 42.63 3.32 23.47 15.85 Gap 19.1 152029 22.16 0.35 and ceo Bob Ulrich said the spending right now,” said Jim Losers Close Change 65.44 40.81 Kohl’s 25.3 179187 43.00 -1.33 company expects to outperform Famalette, ceo of Gottschalks, Unifi 2.59 -37.74 21.25 13.00 Limited Brands 14.7 136675 20.14 -0.43 first-call earnings per share of based in Fresno, Calif., noting Fossil 23.77 -33.79 45 cents. Comp-store sales rose comps at 63 department stores 59.70 29.88 Neiman Marcus Group 15.0 11909 52.53 -0.59 Retail Ventures 7.50 -9.64 7.8 percent at Target Stores. in the Western region rose 11 41.25 15.78 Nordstrom 21.2 61169 37.44 -1.80 Warehouse clubs also have percent in March over last year. Del Laboratories 31.50 -7.89 Revlon 2.90 -7.35 25.78 13.07 Pacific Sunwear 22.3 82098 22.81 0.10 shown recent strong results, “I personally think we’re see- 32.86 17.90 Ross Stores 20.5 48736 30.99 0.50 8.20 6.20 Syms - 467 7.72 -0.06 38.65 25.70 Talbots 18.4 17663 34.69 -0.27 25.49 17.39 TJX 19.7 110191 25.31 0.30

Vendors 46.95 31.62 Alberto Culver 23.5 21556 46.51 1.95 79.95 56.15 Avon 28.2 51053 79.01 1.37 23.50 14.95 Cherokee 13.6 660 23.18 0.20 44.33 18.05 Coach 37.4 49070 39.85 -1.32 59.39 38.71 Columbia Sptswr 18.7 8054 56.32 -1.19 34.48 19.24 Del Laboratories 16.4 599 31.50 -2.70 45.00 29.89 Estée Lauder 30.8 20912 44.25 0.47 25.48 10.80 Fossil 24.0 12645 23.77 -12.13 12.00 5.95 G-III 6.6 339 8.10 0.10 99.80 83.91 Gucci 30.7 3737 85.45 0.03 19.58 3.75 Guess 96.6 12051 16.52 -1.27 39.74 26.60 Jones Apparel 14.6 33065 37.77 -0.44 43.60 26.79 Kellwood 15.3 12276 41.85 -1.30 7%6%!$$%$!'2%!4.%7&%!452%4/ 36.90 18.55 Kenneth Cole 21.0 4560 35.00 0.51 38.90 30.80 Liz Claiborne 14.4 27367 37.10 -0.66 6.90 3.40 Mossimo 14.0 1732 4.36 0.32 /523%26)#%3)43#!,,%$4(%7%34#/!34 32.50 19.26 Movado 16.2 1110 30.38 0.43 47.50 12.78 Oxford 24.4 5724 43.85 -2.18 2OSENTHAL2OSENTHAL )NCEXPANDSTO,OS!NGELES WITHOUR 19.95 12.65 Phillips-Van Heusen 18.5 4350 19.03 0.28 36.44 21.25 Polo Ralph Lauren 19.1 14171 35.21 0.08 UNIQUE BLEND OF lNANCIAL SERVICES AND INDEPENDENT SPIRIT 23.05 14.70 Quiksilver 20.0 24039 22.88 0.44 3.93 2.05 Revlon - 80749 2.90 -0.23 !FTERYEARSOFSUCCESSIN.EW9ORK WEREOPENINGANEWOFFICEIN 21.15 15.43 Russell Corp. 14.0 6779 18.77 -0.03 ,!TOBETTERSERVEOUR7EST#OASTCLIENTS)NANUNCERTAINFINANCIAL 4.76 1.51 Tarrant Apparel - 3329 2.21 0.52 18.25 6.87 Tommy Hilfiger - 44777 16.95 -1.10 CLIMATE WHENCONSOLIDATIONHASAFFECTEDSOMANYFACTORINGCOMPANIES 8.59 0.90 Tropical Sportswear - 3612 1.05 -0.03 48.49 33.43 VF Corp. 13.1 18857 47.94 0.42 2OSENTHAL2OSENTHAL )NCOFFERSTHESTABILITYOFANINDEPENDENT 20.92 10.15 Warnaco - 22352 20.68 0.34 FAMILYFIRM7EAREKNOWNFOROURRESOURCESANDASINGULARLACKOF Textiles BUREAUCRACY4HERESULTFASTERDECISIONS LESSREDTAPE)FYOUREIN 3.70 1.35 Delta Woodside - 179 2.55 0.00 25.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 5 18.40 -0.10 BUSINESS ANYWHERE ON THE GLOBE LET US SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE 7.37 2.00 Unifi - 74788 2.59 -1.57 WECANMAKE WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending April 16

Composite: 122.53 Broadline Stores: 119.70 Softline Stores: 129.12

2OSENTHAL2OSENTHAL )NC 1.13 2.12 -1.36 .%79/2+/&&)#%"ROADWAY .EW9ORK .9   ,/3!.'%,%3/&&)#%4HE7ARNER#ENTER /XNARD3TREET 3UITE7OODLAND(ILLS #!   Vendors: 125.58 Textiles: 102.41 WWWROSENTHALINCCOMEMAILINFO ROSENFACTCOM Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. -0.01 -0.05 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 15

Continued from opposite page home goods,” Wasik said. picture, it is not enough to re- While it won’t have a big effect in the early Nineties and late don’t let it dictate our lives any- Meanwhile, some are saying place the stimulus in tax reduc- on housing, it will affect refi- Eighties.” He explained that more,” he said. “There isn’t a that growth in consumer spend- tion and refinancing.” nancing, where it has been one while gasoline purchases as a person out there who hasn’t ing is expected to wane starting So far, there seem to be some major source of consumer cash percentage of total retail sales seen their financial condition in fall 2004, the first decline uncertainties on the horizon: in the last two years,” he said. was 6 percent at its peak in improve with the improvement since spring 2003. overseas political concerns, ris- Steidtmann expects that con- 1978, filling up the tank today of the stock market, either.” That’s the conclusion drawn ing mortgage rates and higher sumers flocking to the extremes represents just 1 percent of total Michael Gould, chairman from a Deloitte Research Index gas prices. However, Steidtmann in retailing — luxury and dis- retail sales. and ceo of Bloomingdale’s, de- of Consumer Spending, released isn’t too concerned about their counting — will continue for a “You can have a pretty sharp scribed consumer spending as on April 12. The expected decline impact on the consumer. long time. “It tends to be more rise in gas prices and not have a enthusiastic. “Regular prices is largely the result of fewer tax “What ultimately drives con- extreme during a recovery. The slowdown in the economy,” and better prices are selling. reductions. The index comprises sumer spending is the funda- polarization of the performance Steidtmann concluded. But the world is fragile, and four components: tax burden, ini- mentals of a consumer’s fi- of the retailers is a reflection of Stephen Gallagher, econo- each quarter going forward, tial unemployment claims, real nances. Consumer confidence the demographics of the popu- mist at SG Cowen, also felt that we’ll be up against tougher wages and real home prices. historically lags spending. In the lation, and income and wealth the consumer so far isn’t about comps. But we still see tremen- Carl Steidtmann, Deloitte’s most recent report, most retail- distributions. Recessions tend to pull back on spending levels, dous opportunity ahead, though chief economist, observed, “A lot ers said that sales were good in to hit hard on the middle class,” but did indicate that there not of quite the same magnitude of the growth in spending over March, yet the confidence he noted. might be some risk ahead. that we’ve been seeing recently. the last couple of years has been [index] fell. As for mortgage Regarding fuel prices, Steidt- — With contributions from The gains will not be the same, driven by tax reduction and mort- rates, you’re seeing a relatively mann said, while they’re going Katherine Bowers, but it will still be terrific. The gage refinancing. While there’s orderly rise and rates that are up, “in real terms, they are not Kristin Young, Vicki M. key for us rests in upscale, limit- improvement in the employment still low by historic comparisons. anywhere near any of the prices Young and David Moin ed-distributed merchandise.” Britt Beemer, chairman at Charleston, S.C.-based America’s Research Group, said he’s not surprised Americans have so far ignored the daily doom and gloom in the news. But he quickly Imagine a financing proposal filled with added that rising fuel prices practical business solutions hand picked just could cause some spending rip- for you. At GE Commercial Finance’s Retail ples. “Americans are more re- silient than you think,” Beemer Finance group, that’s exactly what you’ll get. said. “Since the first of the year, consumer spending has been No matter your goal, we’ve got allthegoods pretty good.” However, Beemer said if the in stock to help you grow your business; violence in Iraq continues to cash flow and asset-based loans, term and worsen, he fears stock prices could fall, which would erode second lien loans, acquisition capital, consumer confidence. recapitalizations...and more. We’ve put our Deborah Weinswig, equity an- tailoredfinancing solutions to work for alyst with Smith Barney, said she’s not seeing a decline in over- hundreds of companies from depart m e n t all store traffic. “Compared to storesand sporting goods outlets to jewelry what the country has been and specialty apparel store s . through, it has been a distrac- tion,” Weinswig said. “When you talk to senior management in re- Attention Retailers: Combine this with 100+years’ofconsumer tail, they talk about a major event. product experience and first-hand retail Since that has not happened, and as long as the violence isn’t on our We’ve got your operations know-how and you can be sure soil, it will be a distraction.” we’ve got your future in store . Retail analysts say that what’s helping clothing, accessories and future in store footwear sales are the new fash- ions and bright colors this GE Commercial Finance spring. They’re helping to make consumers feel better. In addi- Retail Finance tion, most observers said tax re- funds are helping to protect the top line, which offsets higher, fuel-related transportation costs. However, Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of The NPD Group, said retailers in the past year have changed the way they evaluate business operations. While change in weather patterns has traditionally been the mitigat- ing factor when retailers evaluate weekly and monthly sales results, some observers note retail execu- tives are now looking at the news and its impact on the consumer. As the nation saw in the days post-Sept. 11, shopping is just as psychological as it is emotional. And with so many more influences today affecting the consumer mind-set, people have changed the way they shop, Cohen said. Kenneth Wasik, director of the consumer products group at investment bank Houlihan Lokey Howard & Zukin, said consumers are influenced by the spate of negative news, es- pecially after three years of wal- lowing in a soft economy. Wasik said he is concerned over the ongoing world conflicts as well as its impact on com- modity prices, including oil and shipping costs. “Americans have Jim Hogan · Norwalk, CT · 203-956-4592 Stuart Armstrong · Managing Director Daniel Williams · New York, NY · 212-309-8779 been used to decreasing prices Lori Potter · Charlotte, NC · 704-992-5444 Norwalk, CT · 203-956-4085 Kimberly Morse · Pleasanton, CA · 925-730-6464 on everything, and I wonder if Steve Metivier · Norwalk, CT · 203-956-4596 Matt Christensen · San Francisco, CA · 925-730-6425 we will see a turning point when Pamela Rashid · Chicago, IL · 312-441-7763 prices creep back up, whether it ©2004 GE Corporate Financial Services, Inc. All rights re s e rv e d . is apparel, personal care or 16 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

Financial Factors: Preparing for ‘Domino Effect’ Wh

By Ross Tucker ment,” said Cohen. “It gives both small and large companies the opportunity to export their products to the U.S.” NEW YORK — The expiration of China’s quotas in 2005 is viewed by retailers as pri- According to Cohen, once quotas are eliminated companies will look to offer open marily an opportunity to lower costs and improve margins. account payment terms rather than the traditional letters of credit. “We are seeing For factors, companies that take on responsibility for a firm’s receivables for a fee, that as the use of letters of credit declines, Chinese exporters and their financial preparing for an even greater shift toward China has required a change in business partners are increasingly seeking the services of factoring companies,” said Cohen. strategies. It has meant more client education and the development of expertise in Ultimately, the factors contend the greater impact will be felt not in China, but in foreign, political and cultural issues. other Asian countries. Factoring executives speculated on how a quota-free China will affect global mar- Sea changes could occur in those Asian countries that have been the beneficiary of kets. There is little question, however, that once it does hap- China’s limitations, according to Officina. “When it in fact ex- pen, China’s position as the world’s leading sourcing location pires I don’t know that it will affect any of the imports from will only be reinforced. Suddenly all China as dramatically as it will affect other Pacific Rim na- Mark Bienstock, executive vice president of DCD Capital, “ tions,” he said. “I’m talking specifically in terms of [South] believes retailers will initially look for a reduction in their cost manufacturers will be Korea, whose quotas will still be in place. Malaysia, of producing goods. “The majority of major retailers will begin Indonesia, Vietnam, all of the countries that currently are the shifting [their] sourcing to China because of the overall cost competing on equal footing, beneficiaries of quota issues with China.” feature,” said Bienstock. “Retailers are going to expect a price Bienstock believes many of these countries are better pre- cut on the merchandise that they’re buying along the line of 10 resulting in a more pared than some have anticipated. According to Bienstock, to 15 percent. Whether that happens is doubtful, but they feel India and Pakistan have spent “tremendous” amounts of with the quotas lifting they’re going to be entitled to some cost competitive, yet money gearing up for the change. “There are plenty of very adjustment.” good opportunities in India and Pakistan to source goods As Bienstock points out, China’s advantage over other democratic, environment. without quota as well,” said Bienstock. countries is somewhat evolutionary, having dealt with quota ” Efficiency, observed Cohen, will be the deciding factor. issues for years that has in turn forced it to become more effi- — Mitch Cohen, CIT “Companies located throughout Asia will have to find ways to cient. “Because of China’s advantages in price over time, they Commercial Services compete more effectively with China,” he said. “I predict this have tremendous expertise and abilities in sourcing. It’s a could have a domino effect as companies throughout the re- natural progression that they’re doing so much.” gion reexamine their business process to become more efficient. In the end, the Stanley Officina, president of Sterling Factors, expects improved margins for his consumer possibly stands to benefit from lower costs or better value.” clients once quotas expire. “From our point of view we would hope to see some increase The lure of lower costs will undoubtedly create concentration issues for some re- in the profitability of our client base,” said Officina. “Cost of raw material and cost of tailers, a possibility that may be unavoidable, said the factors. “You never want to be product drops because quota is eliminated and their access to product is broadened. caught with [either] one source of supply [or] with one customer. Unfortunately, the Then hopefully their profitability increases.” However, Officina also realizes this is a way we see this market today there’s more and more concentration both in supply best-case scenario for retailers. “In no way is it a gimme that that in fact will happen.” and your customer base,” said Officina. “I think [retailers] need to keep the doors Mitch Cohen, senior vice president and western regional manager of CIT open to other sources of supply.” Commercial Services, views the elimination of quotas as a leveling of the playing A little more than eight months remain before the quota deadline is met. In that field between large and small manufacturers. “Suddenly all manufacturers will be time, factors and sourcing executives alike believe the U.S. government will step in competing on equal footing, resulting in a more competitive, yet democratic, environ- and implement at least some protectionist measures. Howard Moore, senior vice president at IDB Bank, believes the industry will suffer as a result of quotas being lifted. “I believe that was evidenced when quota was removed from four categories of textiles and apparel last year. The imports soared, especially from China,” he said. According to Moore, considering that it’s an election year, pres- sure from the apparel and textile lobby — however dwindling its BANK LEUMI USA power is — should help keep quotas in place. “I think the govern- ment will have to ease into the removing of quota from China or announces the formation of a new they’ll damage our market,” said Moore. Bienstock agrees, believing the removal of quota will put domes- middle market lending team serving the tic manufacturers into a “severe crunch for price competition.” Regardless, the lifting of quotas is no longer a question of if but apparel, textiles and housewares industries. when. To prepare, factors have had to change their strategies and the very nature of their businesses. According to Cohen, CIT already has relationships established Scott Morello with more than 10 Asian banks. The company’s western region divi- First Vice President sion has developed an Asian team to coordinate the company’s services with these banks and exporters. Team Leader “In our Los Angeles office we have a special Asian team,” said 212.626.1385 Cohen. “These teams, which handle factoring accounts, have em-

Ralph Mascia Mitchell Meth Vice President Vice President 212.626.1373 212.626.1343

Mary Ellen Bianco Orly Hillman Vice President Banking Officer 212.626.1390 212.626.1326

562 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10036 Fax: 212.626.1329 [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 17 en Quotas End Wal-Mart’s Food Drive NEW YORK — An explanation of Wal- ployees who can speak the language,” which requires Mart’s rise from retail giant to global jug- building a team that can speak different Chinese di- gernaut over the last several years can be Selling more than Food at Wal-Mart alects, such as Cantonese, Mandarin and Taiwanese. summed up in one word: food. al-Mart Stores Inc. may be building its retail empire on grocery sales, but the world’s biggest company also sells CIT has had an office in Hong Kong since 1994 and A recent report by Goldman Sachs Wsomewhere in the neighborhood of $30 billion a year in apparel. Wal-Mart is also the largest retailer of home goods. also has a presence in Taiwan. More recently CIT es- analyst George Strachan examining seg- Moreover, the retailer’s Web site offers shoppers a colossal mix of goods, from jewelry and accessories to garden tablished a Shanghai office in the spring of 2003. ment results from Wal-Mart’s 10-K fil- products and electronics. Here’s a sample of some of the items WWD found on walmart.com: DCD, said Bienstock, has poured its resources ings with the Securities and Exchange ● into developing markets in India and Pakistan. Commission indicated that grocery goods Movies & Music: Beethoven Symphony No. 5, “Herbert von Karajan conducts the Berlin Philharmonic,” $21.23 “We’ve sent new business staff to India for three have been “the principal driver” of sales “Beethoven’s 5th,” “Sara takes Beethoven to spend summer vacation with wacky uncle Freddie,” $19.98 months to meet with the factories,” said Bienstock. at the retail giant. In the report, ● Home: “We have offices in Pakistan, India and Dubai. We’re Strachan examined annual results from Image 631 Deluxe Six-Person Hot Tub, $4,478 familiar with the customs and the languages.” 2003, 2002 and 1998, using rounded Easy Set Swimming Pool, 864 square feet (bigger than many New York apartments), $348 Sterling Factors established its Asia presence ap- numbers and a five-year basis to present ● Sports & Fitness: proximately three years ago with an office in Hong a broad view of how grocery goods have DAC SportSafe Portable Gun Safe with Two-Gun Capacity, $69.96 Kong. “That reaches out to a variety of Pacific Rim risen to the top. Trout Unlimited Colorado 9-foot Pontoon Boat, $388.68 areas,” said Officina. “We’ve anticipated the growth According to the report, grocery sales, ● Books: of our business being generated in Asia and re- including tobacco and candy sales, have The Oxford English Dictionary, $2,850 sponded by opening Sterling Asia.” experienced a compound annual growth Erica Jong’s “Fear of Flying,” $7.19 Simply building teams who can speak the lan- rate of 12.8 percent since 1998. ● Jewelry: guage isn’t enough to achieve success, however. “You In 2003, groceries led all categories 1-carat Round Diamond Solitaire Ring in Platinum, $3,288 have to be understanding, more so now, of culture with estimated sales increasing 20 per- Sterling Silver Cubic Zirconia Bubble Earring and Pendant Set, $14.97 and language,” said Bienstock. Being attuned to how cent to $45.3 billion from $37.7 billion ● Garden & Patio: overseas markets operate and having a pulse on cur- the previous year. Comparatively, grocery Elegant Odontoglossum Orchid in Striking Brass Pot, $39.74 “The Humanure Handbook: A Guide to Composting Human Manure,” $11.97 rency fluctuations and changing political issues is sales came in at $15.3 billion in 1998 ● also crucial. According to Bienstock, DCD sends its and was the third-largest category. Electronics: Tatung 50-inch high definition plasma TV, $5,498 staff overseas regularly, another advantage in a time Not surprisingly, groceries accounted RCA 13-inch color TV, $77.84 when other businesses are reluctant to travel. “We’ve for the largest percentage of total sales — Dan Burrows already established a foothold,” said Bienstock. in 2003, coming in at 26 percent of IDB’s Moore believes factors have had to learn total sales compared with 24 percent the centers as the main driver of Wal-Mart’s versions into supercenters. how to continually educate their clients about the previous year. In 1998, groceries ac- growth,” said Strachan. Currently, the company operates changing global landscape. “We have to be knowl- counted for 16 percent of total sales. Strachan derives confidence in his 1,471 supercenters with an average re- edgeable of the various free trade negotiations taking With management focused on ex- view from company management, which tail space of 187,000 square feet. place, when and where quota is or isn’t removed,” panding its supercenter concept, upped its guidance on the number of su- “It is clear that grocery continues to said Moore. “More so than ever before we’re going to Strachan sees groceries continuing to percenters it intends to open to between drive shopping frequency into Wal-Mart’s have to ensure our clients are knowledgeable regard- feed growth for many more years. “We 230 and 240 in 2005. Of those, 150 supercenters,” Strachan said. ing changes taking place in quota, free trade agree- continue to regard domestic super- existing discount stores will undergo con- — R.T. ments and decisions made by our government.”

Chargebacks. Markdowns. Guaranteed Margins. Quotas. Duties. Returns. Shortages. No Credit. Inventory Problems. We Understand.

We know what you have to go through in the apparel business these days. After all, it’s the business we chose to serve when Ben Milberg founded the company back in 1937. And for three generations someone named Milberg has been here, providing factoring and financial services to the apparel industry. FACTORING BY DESIGNSM What are the other reasons to choose us when you are looking for a factor? We make decisions FAST. Need a credit approval? Need more money? Your best customer is postponing delivery on your biggest order? At Milberg, a principal is just a phone call away. No committee. No long wait.

Ask us for a Factoring By Design Plan. Call Saul Langer, SVP and Division Head or Michael Bell, VP In New York: In Los Angeles: at 212-273-2999 Dan Milberg, SVP Dave Reza, SVP 99 PARK AVENUE 655 NORTH CENTRAL AVENUE NEW YORK, NY 10016 GLENDALE, CA 91203 A DIVISION OF IDBBANK (212) 697-4200 (818) 649-7587 Empire State Building 350 Fifth Avenue, NY 10118 Factoring • Working Capital Financing Letters of Credit • Collateral Monitoring Services Receivables Outsourcing IDBBank is a registered service mark of Israel Discount Bank of New York. Total assets exceed $7.5 billion. MEMBER FDIC www.milbergfactors.com 18 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

counts 406 doors, including 45 overseas. Meanwhile, French fast-fashion group Vivarte, EUROPE WATCH which runs the Kookai, Caroll, Liberto and Next Generation Hilfiger Minelli chains, among others, said sales for the quarter ended Feb. 29 were up 4.7 percent to FRENCH GAINS: Christian Dior SA, the holding $552.7 million, or 464.1 million euros. For Tommy Hilfiger bought branding rights company of luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy the first half, sales were up 3 percent to $1.15 at Point X Camp in Aguanga, Calif. Louis Vuitton and the Christian Dior fashion billion, or 966.6 million euros, from $1.12 house, said Friday consolidated sales in the billion, or 938 million euros, a year ago. As first quarter grew 10 percent on a comparable reported, Financiere 2 PAI, a European structure and at constant exchange rates. The investment fund, acquired 55.4 percent of French firm reported sales of $3.55 billion, or Vivarte last week. — E.M. 2.98 billion euros, a 2.1 percent increase over a year ago, when sales totaled $3.48 billion, or IN THE BAG: The Vivienne Westwood exhibition 2.92 billion euros. The results were largely in at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum may line with LVMH and Dior fashion results have only come into bloom last month but reported earlier, and the group echoed an seeds for its next fashion occasion have already objective of “significant growth” in operating been planted. “Our fashion curator, Claire results for the year. — Miles Socha Wilcox, is working on the next major fashion exhibition,” said a spokesman for the museum. NEW VIEW: Oakley is spying out new territory “It will be a retrospective of the Spanish overseas. The California-based sunglass and couturier Cristobal Balenciaga and is accessories firm chose Barcelona for its first scheduled to open in 2007.” — Ellen Burney European boutique. Located on Avenue Diagonal in the L’Illa shopping center, the DRESS BLUES: A handful of London’s black NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger Corp. is Tommy Hilfiger, principal designer 1,560-square-foot boutique carries Oakley’s taxis are about to change their colors. As part spreading its prolific sponsorship activi- of the firm, couldn’t be reached for eyewear line, as well as accessories, footwear of a campaign by the National Army Museum ties to a new generation. The company’s comment Friday, but said in a state- and apparel for men and women. Since Oakley to promote museums and galleries month, 30 U.S. division has just inked an endorse- ment, “Point X Camp is at the epicen- targets a customer between the ages of 17 and black cabs will be “dressed” in military ment deal with Point X Camp, a special- ter of the action sports world as host to 28, the company’s choice of location is of no uniforms from different historical periods. They ty training camp and action sports facili- the top pro athletes, as well as the surprise as Barcelona boasts one of Europe’s include a Gordon Highlander at Waterloo, and ty for kids, located in Aguanga, Calif. next generation of stars. Our sponsor- youngest urban populations. Oakley’s a Hussar from the Charge of the Light Brigade. Under the terms of the multiyear ship of Point X Camp brings our pre- Barcelona store brings the brand’s store count The cabs’ exteriors will be covered, billboard- arrangement, Hilfiger is the official existing connection with action sports to 24 units worldwide, with 21 stores in the like, with a photo of the uniform, the flip-up apparel sponsor and will provide to the next level.” U.S. Australia and Chile each have one seats inside the taxi will feature write-ups counselor uniforms, camper clothing Noting that the action sports niche location. — Emilie Marsh about the soldier whose uniform is printed on and promotional product to camp par- is one of the fastest-growing sports cat- the cab. “We wanted to take something ticipants. The sponsorship includes egories in the country, the company FAST TIMES: French fast-fashion chain Camaïeu representing the National Army Museum and branding rights throughout the 75,000- said the partnership with Point X reported first-quarter sales up 3.9 percent to present it in an intriguing way,” said Simon square-foot camp and on all facility Camp allows Hilfiger to “leverage its $98.4 million, or 82.6 million euros, from Parkes, a spokesman for Ideas Unlimited, the advertising, and Hilfiger also has the brand within an important target con- $94.7 million, or 79.5 million euros, in the agency that developed the ad. “The museum naming rights and owns available sumer group.” year-earlier period. Dollar figures are converted isn’t about artifacts, it’s about real soldiers and branding and signage areas in the In the past, Hilfiger has sponsored from the euro at current exchange. On a like- their experience, so we gave each uniform a bowl area-rhythm park, an extreme- the U.S. Freestyle Ski Team and the for-like basis, sales dropped 2.5 percent, due story, and each cab a personality.” After a playground area where skateboarders, extreme solo-sailor Brad Van Liew in to the opening of seven stores and the launch on Whitehall on April 29, the taxis will BMX riders and in-line skaters learn the “Around Alone” yacht race, in ad- repurchase of four franchises. The brand be in service for a year. — Nina Jones and practice their skills, training with dition to a number of music-related elite pro athletes. events and concert tours. CFDA Reexamines Scheduling

By Eric Wilson with the Fashion Calendar, the CFDA and 7th on Sixth about NEW YORK — Following a their issue and try to resolve it, spate of last-minute calendar hopefully without disadvantage changes during the New York to anybody else,” said Peter collections in February, the Arnold, executive director of Council of Fashion Designers of CFDA, who feels that a collec- America is preparing a memo tive industry statement on the to designers saying that it is not issue would encourage design- appropriate to unilaterally ers to make decisions with the Code move their show dates without collective good in mind. the input of their colleagues. The Fashion Calendar has A group of about 16 repre- long been the clearinghouse for sentatives from designer com- show times and has done so in Cracker panies, retailers and the press collaboration with 7th on Sixth met on Thursday to discuss is- since its inception in 1993. sues relevant to fashion week “People do understand the 2987453280 — focusing specifically on date p.r. value of being seen as a changes and the timing of the good person and not too capri- upcoming September shows — cious or uncaring,” Arnold as part of an advisory group said. “This is all going to be in- formed by the CFDA last year. cremental, but several years Although the organization does going forward, we may just not intend to enforce regula- have a list of procedures that tions of fashion shows, it is everyone does abide by.” compiling a list of guidelines The advisory group — intended to improve the gener- which included Arnold and The industry The news online at 12:01am EDT al operations of the week and Stan Herman from the CFDA; 6 continents, 11 bureaus, 203 to discourage unsportsmanlike Fern Mallis from 7th on Sixth, intelligence you reporters for unmatched coverage conduct between designers. and representatives of Ralph In February, Calvin Klein, Lauren, Michael Kors, Vogue need to plan Search the previous five issues of WWD online which tends to have a lock on and Harper’s Bazaar — also 24/7 access on your desktop, anytime, anywhere major models for an extended discussed several complaints your next move. period of time before and after about the proposed dates for its show, moved its scheduled New York’s spring 2005 collec- time back by several days with- tions, to be shown Sept. 8-15 — out informing the designers a period that includes the who had already announced Sept. 11, 2001, anniversary on a their intentions to show at that Saturday and ends with Rosh time. The sudden move led to a Hashanah at sundown on Sept. WWD domino effect of show changes 15. Citing holidays later in the Go to .com throughout the week. month and the difficulties of “With regards to scheduling, obtaining samples from first. insider. authoritative. global. we would suggest that anybody Europe any sooner, they con- who wants to change their date cluded that there were no vi- after the calendars and invita- able alternatives to recom- tions are printed has got to talk mend, Arnold said. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 19 Baselworld: Time is Right for Watch Uptick By Marc Karimzadeh their travel plans. In addition, we had anticipated before the only to fill in, but also to round nificant inroads there.” because of SARS, the Swiss show started.” out the collection.” With the luxury business BASEL, Switzerland — Swiss government barred exhibitors The watch business, particu- Dario Parrilla, vice presi- picking up again, some lesser- watch makers are hoping to from China, Singapore, Hong larly at the luxury end, is start- dent of sales, specialty mar- priced fashion watch brands grow in time. Kong Kong and Vietnam. ing to gather momentum again, kets, at Fendi-watch licensee are introducing more exclu- At the Baselworld Watch In light of last year’s excep- vendors agreed. Taramax USA Inc., concurred. sive, pricier looks. Case in and Jewelry Show, which tional challenges, Baselworld “This is a phenomenal year “The outlook is optimistic, and point: Diesel, which presented opened last Thursday, watch is planning to compare this for the U.S.,” said Tania we expect to have a good a new chronograph collection makers said they expect an year’s attendance figures with Edwards, vice president at show,” he said. with retail price points of up to uptick in watch sales this year, 2002, a show spokesman said. Patek Philippe in the U.S. Asia — and China in particu- $2,000. Typically, Diesel watch- with much growth opportunity Both U.S. buyers and Asian “We have a record number of lar — presents a major growth es sell for $85 to $290. coming from the Asian market, vendors are back in force this U.S. buyers, more than ever opportunity for many at the show. “The market is ready for particularly China. year. And while the spokesman before.” “Everybody looks at China something more special, more Last year’s edition was said Sunday it was too soon to Stacie Orloff, president at as an important market,” said luxury,” observed Renzo plagued by the global economic disclose attendance figures, he Corum USA, said: “Many retail- Concord president Fred Rosso, president and founder slump, the war in Iraq and the noted: “At the moment, we ers had a chance to sell Reffsin. “The power of brands of Diesel. “We sell jeans for outbreak of SARS, prompting have more visitors than in through their inventory and [in China] is interesting, and $350, so watches can be more several key U.S. retailers to nix 2002 — more than the 80,000 they’re now buying again, not we are beginning to make sig- special too.”

Fashion Scoops SHADES OF CLINTON: Sen. Hillary Clinton’s colors for spring are clearly coral and more coral. She made her way to the new Ermenegildo Zegna boutique on Fifth Avenue last Wednesday around five — she is friendly with Zegna U.S.A. chief executive officer Richard Cohen — and treated herself to an Agnona coral silk peacoat and a coral crewneck sweater in light cashmere.

MIND THE GAP: Are khakis and T- shirts sexy for the city? Apparently. Word has it that Gap is in negotiations to have Sarah Jessica Parker star in an upcoming advertising campaign. Asked about the rumor, a Gap spokeswoman would only say, “I can’t confirm anyone yet.”

THE SHOW GOES ON: Julien Macdonald may have exited Givenchy, but the fashion firm’s in- house design team is hard at work. Marco Gobbetti, the new ceo, confirmed that a collection is being prepared for Paris couture week July 6-9. The house has not decided whether it will do a runway show, but there will be a presentation for clients at the least. Gobbetti has given no timetable to name a new couturier, but an announcement isn’t expected for several months.

Marco Gobbetti

LUNCHABLES: If Harper’s Bazaar is losing some of its talent lately, perhaps there’s a brighter future. Editor in chief, Glenda Bailey, was spotted lunching on Friday at Lever House with Caroline Miller, the deposed editor of New York magazine. But it must have been a tough meal for freewheeling conversation, considering only two tables away sat Miller’s replacement, Adam Moss, who was dining with New York’s restaurant critic, Hal Rubenstein. 20 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

Innerwear Report U.N. Survey: FDI to Improve Calvin’s Sensuality By John Zarocostas tronic products. The textile and apparel in- GENEVA — Global foreign di- dustries were also ranked as By Karyn Monget rect investment is forecast to the least-likely industries to NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Underwear is embark- rebound from 2004 to 2007, fol- see new investment in the ing on another ambitious initiative for fall: glam- lowing three years of stagna- Asia-Pacific region. orous, sexy-looking full-support bras by Calvin tion, according to a recently re- Looking across all industri- Klein Sensual Support. leased United Nations survey. al sectors, the FDI growth On top of its Choice Calvin Klein intimate ap- In general, the textile and prospects are brightest for parel targeted at the 14- to 22-year-old consumer, ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY apparel industry will be a low China and India, followed by which is also scheduled to be launched in July by priority for investors, the study the U.S. Last year, FDI inflow The , the company will introduce said, though it noted that Africa to China totaled $57 billion, to Sensual Support aimed at the style-conscious is an exception. Of the 87 top in- India $3.4 billion and to the woman who needs and wants the benefits of sup- port and control without forsaking fashion. Countries will intensify their efforts Lending a celebrity cachet to the launch will be Academy Award winner Hilary Swank, whom to“ attract FDI in response to increased Calvin Klein Inc. has cast for print, outdoor and other media for the global introduction, as report- competition worldwide for projects. ed, in more than 50 core fashion and lifestyle mag- ” azines in 20 countries. The campaign, which — Karl Sauvant, U.N. Conference on Trade and Development breaks in August and September magazines, is being photographed by Steven Meisel. ternational investment experts U.S. $86.6 billion. Matthew McCarthy, executive vice president of surveyed, 70 percent thought “One clear message emerg- Calvin Klein Underwear for women, said, Africa’s textile and apparel in- ing from the survey is that coun- “Sensual Support will be launched in 300 doors of dustry would be ripe for foreign tries will intensify their efforts major stores in the U.S., as well as Galeries direct investment. That made to attract FDI in response to in- Lafayette in France and Selfridges in England. the industry the continent’s creased competition worldwide The collection will be housed within the Calvin third-most attractive FDI can- for projects,” said Karl Sauvant, Klein Underwear area with our fixturing and vi- didate, behind nonmetallic director of investment at the suals of Hilary Swank.” products and energy services. U.N. Conference on Trade and In industrialized economies, Development, which conducted the textile and apparel sectors the survey. The collection will be were ranked the least-likely in- In 2003, global FDI re- “ vestment targets. Only 11 per- mained flat at $653 billion, ac- housed within the Calvin cent of respondents cited tex- cording to UNCTAD estimates. tiles and apparel as likely to see For 2004 and 2005, 77 percent Klein Underwear area with an increase in foreign invest- of the experts are predicting ment in industrial economies, an improvement in the overall our fixturing and visuals of compared with 80 percent who investment climate, 9 percent projected growth in invest- said it will worsen and 14 per- Hilary Swank. ments in electrical and elec- cent said it will stay the same. — Matthew McCarthy,” Calvin Klein Underwear McCarthy noted that the expansion into full- support was because 25 to 30 per- cent of women cannot wear Calvin Klein bras, a OECD Forecasts 4.5 Percent majority of which are engineered for light support and average figures in fabrics such as a trade- mark sheer Marcasite. Growth for U.S. Economy in ’04 “They don’t work with this consumer’s figure type,” said McCarthy, noting that cup sizes in GENEVA — An international business investment.” the new collection will be 34B to 38DD. The bulk Calvin Klein Sensual Support intimates are aimed at economic agency predicted the OECD economists predict- of the business, which, according to industry esti- women who want support without forsaking fashion. U.S. economy will grow by 4.5 ed the rate of inflation will de- mates, could generate wholesale revenues of percent in 2004, up from last cline to 1.3 percent from 1.8 more than $25 million the first year, will be an- consisting of a U-wire balconette with retro wide year’s 3.1 percent, boosted by an percent, and unemployment chored in C and D cup sizes. straps, two strapless underwire styles and a cami increase in domestic demand will drop to 5.5 percent from The Sensual Support line is focused and con- with a built-in bra. In November, a Mesh with Lace and higher business investment. last year’s level of 6 percent. cise, and the color range will blend in with the ex- group will feature another balconette style with “The near-term outlook for The unemployment rate stood isting line of Calvin Klein underwear for women wide lace straps and a framed underwire look. the U.S. economy is favorable,” at 5.7 percent last month. in shades including black, nutmeg, violet and pa- Suggested retail prices for the bras will be $44 concluded the latest Economic The survey cautioned, how- paya for fall. Additional colors will be added for to $45. The cami will be $60. Coordinating bottoms Survey of the U.S. by the 30-na- ever, that significant downside late fall and holiday. will retail from $20 to $22. tion Organization for Economic risks remain to the positive Amy Ligouri, vice president of merchandising, A two-piece hangtag will feature the Calvin Cooperation and Development. outlook. The Paris-based displayed two basic groups: one called Lace Klein Sensual Support name in black lettering on The OECD said a pickup in agency warned the continuing Curves, which features three bra styles — a two- a pearlized beige ground, and a marketing tag line productivity and solid corpo- budget deficit “could put up- way stretch foam underwire bra, a full-coverage on a black ground with white lettering and two rate profits “bodes well for a ward pressure on long-term in- style and a framed underwire number rendered in bullet points will say: “Designed for the Style continued robust economic ex- terest rates.” one piece of fabric from the back of the wings to Conscious Woman Who Needs Support,” and pansion, increasingly led by — J.Z. the front of the bra — and Pure Glamour, a group “Engineered for Comfort.”

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Here and right, MoMA’s Fashion Snapshot modern and classic looks NEW YORK — If the Museum of from Ann Taylor. Modern Art’s first serious explo- ration of fashion photography helps to validate the artistic merits of the medium, then perhaps some of fashion’s hip factor can rub off on the museum. That certainly seemed the case at the exhibit’s opening on Wednesday, as everyone from front- row Kim Cattrall to Craig McDean turned out. “I think it’s fantastical,” said Cattrall, who arrived in a Donna Karan dress and Yves Saint Laurent coat with Pascal Dangin, the photograph retoucher. “I’ve al- ways loved looking though fashion photography, but I never imagined seeing it at this size.” “Fashioning Fiction in Photo- graphy Since 1990” opened Friday at MoMA’s temporary Queens Kim Cattrall headquarters in Long Island City. and Pascal Dangin In the exhibit, dramatic images from memorable fashion advertis- ing campaigns and editorial shoots are shown in a different context than the pages of a magazine, one that offers the viewer a new per- spective on a subject that has not often been championed by cura- tors of contemporary photography. Images from Cedric Buchet’s Prada campaign, where discon- nected models are interspersed on a beach, or Steven Meisel’s series, called “The Good Life,” originally a fashion story in Vogue Italia that satirizes the ideal American family, take on a different perspective when the photographs are blown up and framed on a museum wall. The exhibit aims to demonstrate Craig McDean how the Nineties marked a turning point in fashion photography,, mov- Ellen von ing away from direct displays of merchandise toward narrative Unwerth story lines that frequently subvert- ed the actual clothing. This is seen in Cindy Sherman’s self-portraits under the guise of “The New Cindy Sherman Collection,” made for Harper’s Bazaar in 1993. “It’s a great start,” said Ellen von Unwerth, who added that fash- ion photography has generally not been treated with much respect by Three ensembles from Ann Taylor Loft. museums.

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO One reason for this, curators of the exhibit have noted, is the com- mercial nature of the medium, whether it is conceived for advertis- Ann Taylor Looks Back at 50 Years ing or in collaboration with a maga- zine. Von Unwerth’s 1995 campaign By Evan Clark firm’s growth and is expected to expand by a total of 65 for Alberta Ferretti, inspired by to 70 stores this year. An e-commerce site devoted to Hollywood film stills, is also includ- NEW YORK — Ann Taylor Stores Corp. is gearing up for the name also will launch next month at loft.com. There ed in the show. The show was organ- its golden anniversary. are currently 355 Ann Taylor stores and plans to add a ized by Susan Kismaric, curator, and The retailer, which got its start in 1954 and will total of 10 to 15 doors this year. Eva Respini, assistant curator, of the begin touting its anniversary in marketing campaigns In March, comparable-store sales rose 12 percent MoMA’s department of photography. during the second half, last week presented fall collec- for the firm overall, driven by a 31.6 percent jump at All the works in “Fashioning tions for its Ann Taylor and Ann Taylor Loft chains. Loft and a 0.2 percent uptick at the Ann Taylor division. Fiction,” by 13 photographers, Michael Smaldone signed up in September as senior When asked how Loft could entice its customers to were originally created as commis- vice president of design, the day after showing his first keep buying, Kay Krill, president of the division, noted sions by magazines or as ad images. and only collection for Anne Klein. simply, “You just keep giving her more.” But there are signs that the percep- The Ann Taylor label has opted for a more trendy Krill described the Loft niche in broad terms, noting tion that commercial work cannot season, bringing back its signature circa 1954 dress the chain makes a home for itself on the retail scene by be classified as art is beginning to and a vintage flair throughout the collection. It features providing fashion and quality at “surprising prices.” change, as museum chairman shrunken fur jackets, floral skirts, classic trouser-style Sweaters at the chain go for $39 to $59, while jackets Ronald Lauder appeared to be one pants, printed blouses, smart tweeds and herringbones sell for $89 to $139 and pants for $39 to $79. of the most avidly interested atten- and an assortment of colorful knits. Black lace ruled for Debt-rating agency Standard & Poor’s sees the po- dees at the opening. evening, with little pink dresses for those seeking a tential for Ann Taylor’s performance to continue, and “I even like the Steven Meisel more colorful choice. last week revised its outlook on the retailer’s credit rat- pictures that look like ‘Leave It to To help keep the presentation of the brand up with ing to positive from stable. The “BB-minus” credit rat- Beaver,’” he said. its styling, the Ann Taylor logo is being updated with a ing, which is at the high end of the noninvestment or The museum will continue to fresh typeface. “junk” category, was affirmed. explore the issue with a series of There are also plenty of changes in the Ann Taylor The rating reflects some inconsistent operating per- lectures and panel discussions, in- Loft label. The fall line features a faux-fur jacket, a formance, due partially to previous fashion missteps, cluding one on Wednesday at 6:30 Mario Sorrenti with crocodile-embossed leather blazer, as well as her- and the rapid growth strategy of the lower-priced Loft p.m. with photographers Philip- Amber Olson and Candice ringbones and tweeds that can work for the office division, S&P analyst Ana Lai said in a statement. Lorca diCorcia and Collier Schorr; Marks of Art Partner. and at dinner. “These factors are somewhat mitigated by the com- Dennis Freedman, creative direc- PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE The firm’s been on a tear, with earnings increasing pany’s more focused merchandising strategy, improved tor of WWD’s sister publication, W, and a consultant to the exhibit, last year by 25.9 percent to $100.9 million, or $2.13 a inventory management and adequate credit-protection and Ingrid Sischy, editor in chief of Interview. On Thursday, the diluted share. Sales rose 15 percent to $1.59 billion. measures,” Lai said. Council of Fashion Designers of America, which is one of the show’s The 271-door Loft unit is providing much of the — With contributions from Antonia Sardone sponsors, will host a members’ preview of the show with Reed Krakoff, Kate Spade and Anna Sui. —Eric Wilson 22 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004

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Individual Leading Branded and private label 212-869-2699. computer literate. Fax resumes to: work under pressure, possess excellent 212-473-7301 or 212-473-7133 will correspond w/overseas ven- jeanswear manufactures seeking interpersonal skills and have an eye dors, oversee production process merchandiser/designer with at least 5 PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD for color and design. Candidates should yrs experience in Boys & Men High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Allocation/Cust Service possess a Bachelor’s Degree in textiles from inception to delivery, act as li- jeanswear market. This person must sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Growing leather wear co. seeks a highly or related field and 2-3 years of mill aison between design and sales, be highly motivated and organized organized, detailed oriented individual experience. Please fax resume to: and follow up all other prod is- and have experience working with an w /2-4 exp. Responsible for evaluating Human Resources (212) 886-8172 overseas office. Truly a unique oppor- &prioritizing customer orders for sues. Must have at least 2 yrs. tunity with excellent compensation for shipping & interfacing with our Ware- exp.,excellent written and oral the right person. house & Prod Planners to insure Data Processing Analyst comm. skills in Chinese a must. Please fax resume to 646-674-1246 accurate & timely processing of orders. Seeking detail oriented person w/strong Please fax resumes to: Also responsible for customer service, multi-tasking & computer skills. Fax Designers Immed including RA’s & responding to custom- resume/salary request to: 212-704-0738 ELLEN at 212-868-1112 HATS - Financial Backing er inquiries. Strong computer skills a Name Firms Wanted for Well Est’d. High-End Brand must. A2000 exp. a plus. Good benefits. $40 to $80K Fax resumes: 212-473-4281 Design Assistant [email protected] Tel: 561-628-3494 / Fax: 561-835-6743 Major children’s apparel company ALLOCATOR seeks design assistant with experience DESIGNER Designers/Men’s/Young men’s/Boys NJ loc. Women’s Sportswear Co. in production worksheets. Must be 2xist, the leader in men’s designer fur- Urban/"City Wear" Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 detail oriented with great organization- nishings, is seeking a men’s designer Sr. Designer/65-80K al skills. Must also be a team player in to support our growing business. Each Jr. Designer/35-45k Art Director to $125K. Current exp. in exciting, fast paced work environment. candidate must have 5 years minimum For estab. and growing co.Sr. designer graphic art, screen prints, etc. Super- MAC/Illustrator exp. needed. design experience in men’s or boys. must have a knowl. of fabrications. Jr. vise 4. Fabric research devel helpful Fax resume 212-239-2766 Photoshop and Illustrator knowledge des. strong organ. skls. Both req: strong ACQUISITION Company not necessary. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. is a must. Candidate must be highly design, Illust/Photoshop, tech pack, seeks acquisition of a $10-25 million motivated, super organized and willing graphics and expr. in the trendy urban 1 BLOCK FROM Jr/Ladies Sleepwear/Underwear Com- ARTIST-Graphic-2+ yrs exp w/a Girls Design Assistant to work in a fast paced creative envi- rel. mkts. Great growth oppty. BLOOMINGDALE’S SOHO! pany. Please call Bill 212-279-3600 x269 or Ladies mfr doing graphics/prints/ SML Sport ronment. Please send all resumes to E-mail resume [email protected] to discuss. repeats/MAC-Photo/Illus nec. $42-47K [email protected] (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Architect designed store w/ big Call Les Richards at (212) 221-0870 Knitwear co. seeks organized, creative windows, 15ft ceil & skylights. 3000ft person w/1-2 yrs exp to assist in all DESIGN ROOM MANAGER retail, + 1000ft bsmnt. 40% below phases of design process. Excellent ASSISTANT DESIGNER / Designer Assoc $50-60K. Current exp. Men’s/Boys/New Position market! Call Charles @718-490-9205 skills in embro. & beading design a Due to expanding bus. this very GRAPHIC ARTIST must. Fax resume to: 212-869-5167 in JR sportswear req’d. Mostly Jr wo- Major apparel company seeks individual ven bottoms. Division of midtown fast successful and growing men’s/young 488 7th Ave with design and strong CAD skills. growing large co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy men’s/boy’s Urban and "City" wear co. Design Associate to $50K has position for expr. design room 1 BR. SHOWROOMS RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Responsibilities include all aspects of 2-4 yrs. woven tops, scott weave a plus Updating/Phone Interviews line development- sketches, presenta- manager. Req: your ability to run, Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 organize, schedule and be accountable LIVE / WORK PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. tion boards, specs. Individual must be [email protected] 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 experienced with t-shirt graphics for design area. Must have understanding From $1550-$1850, 400-600SF DESIGNER of product, design and MAC skills. Wd. flrs, hi ceils, April Occup (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 and embellishments. Knowledge of Est’d. Fashion Leather Accessories Co. www.resumesforfashion.com Photoshop and Illustrator is a must. Design Director to $170K E-mail resume [email protected] 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6p No Fee seeks Designer with 3 years minimum (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Fax resume to 212-239-2766. Missy swimewear/ coverups. experience designing PLG or handbags. Janet Stevens*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Computer design ability preferred. In [email protected] Division Head to $150K++. Current For Space in Garment Center Assist. to Product Devel. & addition to researching trends & designs, exp. in menswear or mens underwear Helmsley-Spear, Inc. duties will also include preparing pre- required. In charge of merchandising 212-880-0414 Marketing Manager Design Director to $170K sentations and assisting at major sales and strong relationships w/ mass mar- Large Textile Company seeks an Missy swimwear/ coverups. meetings. This Northern NJ based ket stores. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. assistant in their Home Textiles Janet Stevens*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 company is located in thew Wayne area. Showroom / Office / Retail Division. Applicant will be responsible [email protected] Int’l. travel req’d. Great benefits; Salary We find you space-best deal-no fee for product development from its open. Fax resume to: 973-575-3597 Draper Required for first patterns and supervision Sublet 525 7th/ready inception to completion. The individu- Design Director to $175K. Current exp in Garment Center Real Estate al must be detail oriented, computer of sewing first samples. Min 5 years bras required. Direct 9-12. Design & exp. Great opportunity. Fax: 212-382-3623 Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 literate with strong communication patternmaking & tech proficiency. Large DESIGNER skills and be able to interact in a team Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Fast growing intimate & sleepwear co oriented atmosphere. Bachelor’s de- DSNR - 4-16 GIRLSW’R OPEN $ looking for creative, fun person. You Maj co seeks creative, exp’d individ for gree in textile related area or 1-2 years must have some experience with Showrooms & Lofts of work experience in textiles required. Designer $100-125K. Current exp in bras JR DRIVEN 4/16 girls import line. Must BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS and intimate apparel required. Midtown intimates - bras, , etc. Must be have JR bkgr and comp knowledge. Knowledge of Turkish language a plus. able to work well with others. Email Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fax resumes to: 212-714-2021 or well known established growing company. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 resume: [email protected] A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. e-mail to: [email protected] Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 19, 2004 23

MERCHANDISER Production Assistant Design Manager HANDBAGS & ACCESSORIES Minimum 2 yrs. of exp. in knitting. Major fashion forward, branded Jr. Co. Bilingual, English/Cantonese a must. Donna Karan Home, a seeks an individual to work closely with Please fax resume to: (212) 354-2226 leading energetic upscale our Design Team. Experience with hand- Production Coord $35-45K. Min 3 yrs home fashion company, is bags, belts, and other accessories is a current exp. in knit tops. Follow-up, seeking a Design Manager must. This person should be a team scheduling, etc. Excell proficient. player, and able to work in a fast paced Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy for bed and bath products. environment. Ability to develop/merch- Fashion and/or home fur- andise lines, trend forecasts, and give Production Coord $40-50K. Current exp. in Ben Sherman, the epitome of British style and cool, seeks nishings design experience direction. Some overseas travel possible. Junior or Kids bottoms req’d. Track and sales professionals for its growing contemporary women’s Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: schedule import production from incep- division. is a must. A minimum of 212-629-6272 / [email protected] tion to completion. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Saks Fifth Avenue, a premier fashion five years of design experi- retailer is seeking a: ence is desired in both print Merchandiser PRODUCTION KEY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE and woven products. Experi- Pvt Label Company seeks a personable, COORDINATOR BUYER OF FINE JEWELRY The ideal candidate will be a highly motivated, detail orient- creative and detail-oriented individual A college degree and a minimum of 5 ed professional with 5+ yrs sales experience in the contempo- ence in managing others in to make sales presentations to custom- Established Men’s and Boyswear Co. years experience in Fine Jewelry the creative effort is a plus. ers. Must be a team player with knowl- seeking experienced- min 5 yrs, buying, focused on diamond and rary market. Must have strong relationships with major retail- edge of fabrics and garment construc- organized individual with computer colored stone jewelry capacity is ers and proven ability to grow a business. Good organizational skills tion. Responsibilities will include sales skills to assist with all production required. The Buyer must have a and attention to detail are presentations, making presentation needs: samples, specs, private labels, relationship with and knowledge of boards, and shopping latest trends. and UPC’s. Must be fluent in English the loose diamond market, and a ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE needed to be successful. and have good communications skills. The position is located in Excellent computer skills required. strong knowledge of estate jewelry. Candidate must be sales driven, self-motivated, willing to Please fax resume to Please fax resume attention Valerie to: This position must have strong leader- travel, and have 1-3 yrs. experience with specialty accounts. New York with travel Anne 212-382-1937. (212) 629-3506 or email @ ship and financial analysis skills, and required. Candidates should [email protected] excellent communication and negotia- Est. relationships with mid-west specialty accounts a plus. Nadri Jewelry Group tion skills. Technical knowledge of send resume with cover jewelry pricing and strong connections letter including recent salary DESIGN DIRECTOR Production Coordinator Please email resume and salary req. to: Fast-growing prestige costume jewelry Mfr. of and bra mfg. operation. with the Diamond and Estate markets [email protected] history to: manufacturer seeking creative individual Located in Astoria, Queens. is critical. Must also have the ability to with experience managing the design Please call: (516) 295-9230 or build and maintain strong vendor [email protected] process for prestige look-of-real and trend Fax: (516) 295-0620 partnerships and a willingness to or fax to 704.522.4704 with collections. Must have ability to research travel. and interpret upcoming color and design AMY JO GLADSTONE Sales "DKH" in the subject line. Production Immed If you are interested applying for the Major fashion industry mfr of women trends. Detailed, personable, strong opportunity, please fax your resume Amy Jo Gladstone lifestyle brand, a communication and presentation skills leader in the high-end slipper and foot- &children’s accessories, footwear, Name Firms and cover letter to 212-940-5424, or hosiery, plush toys, novelties, home required. Work out of Midtown showroom. apply online at http://s5a.hrdpt.com/ wear market is seeking to fill the fol- Fax: (212) 683-8074, Attn. J. Kaufman lowing positions. Footwear backround products seeks exp. sales professional $40 to $80K EEO at its mid-town showroom. Must have Exciting Opportunities or Email: [email protected] [email protected] not essential. Bronx Location conven- ient to subway, public trans & parking. following in mass market, dept and Stephen Burrows World specialty stores and be able to excel in Stephen Burrows in Harlem is looking Production Mgr $100-125K. Current exp. in bet- Office Asst./Customer Service SAMPLEMAKER SALESPERSON afast paced environment. Excellent for Samplemakers with 5 yrs exp, assis- ter to bridge womens outerwear req’d. Tech computer skills and related industry Small Women’s Fashion Co. seeks Office knowledge of construction of outrwr + prod Est. women’s wear apparel company Salesperson to grow moderate and pri- tants and part time patternmaker w/ 5 Asst. Must be proficient in MS Office seeks experienced samplemaker. exp. a must. yr exp in designer co., and office staff. admin+ scheduling. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy vate label business which has explo- &dataentry. Duties include inventory Call Raffi (212) 382-0400 sive potential. Our product can cross Fax resume w/sal. req. 212-202-4837 English a must. Fax resume to: control, rendering reports, phones, etc. 212-283-7127 or call 212-283-7124 PRODUCTION PATTERN MAKERS merchandise into a multitude of retail Please Fax resume to: 212-944-8833 opportunities from spa’s to dept.stores BRIDGE Seamstress/Tailor to lifestyle catalogues. Great growth po- SALES MANAGER Openings in Apparel Thru Growing BRIDGE division of major tential! 6-8 yrs exp. Knowledge of Act. People Skills a Must. Are you a hard Exclusive distributor for F/T experienced Seamstress/Tailor for APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. company needs experienced produc- upscale boutique in Brooklyn. working, enthusiastic and self motivat- tion pattern maker for dresses, suits, Call (718) 645-2600 Email resume to: ed individual? Well known fashion PieceGoodsCoord-Mjr Sptswr Mfr Immed Hire jewelry designer seeks an experienced Quality Control-Activewear- Visit Local Fact. and separates. Must have experience [email protected] or in Bridge to Designer. Respond with Fax to 718-620-3600 team player to call on high end retail- Techn Dsgnr-C.W.R. - Cut N Sew Knits ers and private label development. Techn Dsgnr- better missy woven bridge line salary requirements: Fax: Mr. Milberg Sewer and Sales Exec-Intimate apparel bkgrd req. at (212-302-4602) or e mail: Fax: 212-768-8836 Sales Exec-Missy priv label mfr mass mkt. [email protected] Patternmaker/Cutter Designer Classics LLC, Whse Mgr Apparel Bkgrd-Nassau/Suffolk Loc BETTER DRESSES AND SUITS Women’s special occasion & evening Judith Ripka Companies An affiliate of Mamiye Other [email protected] COMPUTER AND TABLE wear manufacturer seeks experienced Seeking the Best in Class!!! Brothers Inc. or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 Major better dress and suit manufacturer and highly skilled, detail oriented sewer Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales The exclusive international children’s needs experienced production pattern and patternmaker/cutter (must be able Pros at a flagship Madison Ave., Short Hills, wear manufacturer for Guess Kids is PATTERNMAKER makers for its branded and private label to grade). Must have prior experience. NJ, East Hills, LI, locations. 3+ years of rapidly expanding and seeks an For high end intimate apparel, sleep- divisions. Both computer and table. Call for appointment 212-517-8176 luxury sales exp. req’d. with polished Assistant Store Manager experienced professional for the follow- wear & daywear designer. Make first Lectra system knowledge a plus. Fax resume to 212-734-5302 presentation/exceptional communication skills and proven track record. Strong Upper West side hip, eclectic boutique ing position: patterns through production Good benefits, 401(k) Respond to seeks energetic, creative person for patterns. Computer skills essential, w/ human resources with salary require- client following a must. Excellent benefits Social Compliance & QA package & high income earning potential Assistant Store Manager position. GRAPHIC ARTIST basic knowledge of Microsoft Excel & ments. Fax (212) 869 4011 -coordinator- Qualified candidate must have retail Outlook helpful. Strong communica- available. Cosmetic or fashion exp. is a Intimate Apparel firm seeks an exp +++++ Please send resumes: experience, be computer proficient GIRLS 7-16 tion and organization skills necessary. Raw Material Quality Coordinator off-shore factory compliance and QA Attn: Theresa @ Fax: (212) 244-4560 and have excellent customer service Creative professional with MAC profi- 2-3 yrs experience. Good benefits w/ Wanted to Follow up fabric/trim Lab coord. Position requires minimum of 3 skills. Please fax resume: 212-496-2346 ciency using Illustrator and PhotoShop upbeat fast paced working environment! testing, Specing and troubleshoot prob- yrs exp with off-shore factory human is required for the preparation of Fax resume in confidence to: lems. Familiar with inspection meth- rights & safety compliance. QA exp a+ original multi-color artwork for screen (212) 532-3346 ods a plus. 3-5 years exp. Fax Resume to: 212-683-4038 prints, embroideries, appliques, trims Fax resume to 212-683-4038 Boutique Salesperson and repeats for all over prints. The Patternmaker to $100K Current exp. in Nat’l. Account Sales Mgr. Brooklyn boutique seeking exp’d sales- ideal candidate must have a minimum women’s tailored jackets suits & evening Tech Designer $60-70K. CT area near Gold Jewelry distributor seeks Sales Man- person. Candidates should have retail of 5 years exp with a junior/tween den- dresses plus Lectra or Gerber exp. nec. Receptionist/ Westchester county. Current exp in agement Professional with a min. 5 years bridal or social occasion exp. Week- im driven Apparel Company. Relo Phila. area Call 973-564-9236 Agcy tailored women’s line jackets & dress- exp. Base salary commensurate with ends required. Please submit resume Showroom Asst. es. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy exp. Visit website at: www.aurafin.com & salary requirements to: 718-621-7244. This is an outstanding opportunity in Patternmaker to $45-50K. Current exp. MAXX NY, a fashion handbag company E-mail: [email protected] our New York City offices for a talented in kids woven bottoms and sportswear seeks an ENTRY LEVEL, detail oriented professional to express their originality required. 1st patern only OK. 1411 individual with professional communi- Tech Designers Immed in a highly creative environment while Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy cation and office skills. Excellent com- Sales Associate P/T Name Firms Madison Ave Luxury Boutique. building a rewarding career with a puter skills required. Photoshop a +. RETAILER proven winner. Excellent benefits Patternmaker to $70K. Current exp. in Must be a team player and have great Exp is required w/ polished presenta- including Medical, Dental, Life Insur- bras or swimwear. Secaucus New $40 to $80K Retailer or ex-retailer wanted for exec- tion. Fax resume to 212.308.5454 or people skills. Fax resume to HR: [email protected] utive position in NY based sales organi- ance, Tuition Reimbursement, Profit Jersey location. Growing company. (212) 679-0311 (No calls accepted) [email protected] Sharing and 401(k) are offered. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. zation. Strong team builder with good management skills a necessity. Salary For immediate consideration, please Retail analyst to $50K. Cuirrent exp. in TECH DESIGNERS commensurate with experience. Excel- fax your resume to: Director of Human PROD. ASSIST replenishment. Allocations to stores. Womens woven bottoms NYC $50-75K lent benefit package. Confidentiality SALES EXECUTIVE Resources at 212-216-6126 The fastest growing ladies suit and Growing womens spotswear co. Call Missy Knit tops NYC $45-65K guaranteed. Email resume to Candy Leading French Designer seeks moti- sportswear manufacturer and importer 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Bras NYC to $75K Lehman at: [email protected] or vated, energetic, exp’d sales professio- in the industry is currently searching Missy Sportswear Philidalphia $60-70K by fax to: 610-863-7838. nal for its Soho Flagship Store. Excel- for a Production Assistant. Successful Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency lent growth potential. Salary + Comm. candidates must have a minimum of 3 RETAIL PLANNER Fax resume to: (212) 625-0553 yrs production experience, strong data Mid-size childrens sleepwear company entry skills, delivery tracking, and the seeks Retail Planner with min 5 yrs ex- Textile Production Manager ability to communicate daily with over- perience. Knowledge of Mass/Mid-Tier Correspond w/ overseas mills on daily Sales seas factories. We offer a competitive Accts a plus. Prof in excel. basis, detail oriented w/ good comp Agrowing, upscale, international fine salary and benefits package. This posi- Fax resume to 212-279-2590 skills, ability to multi-task in a fast leather goods company with locations tion is located in our mid-town Manhat- paced environment, strong import prod in CA, FL, MA, NJ, and NY has a great tan office. Please fax your resume with RETAIL exp w/ textiles, order processing, L/C’s opportunity for a full time Sales salary requirements to the attention of Fax Resume 212-695-7548 Associate to join our team in our MA Mr. Evans at 973 258 0978. SERVICE COORDINATOR Store. If you are enthusiastic, have FULL TIME high-end retail experience, are self- PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT New York City THE TOBE REPORT motivated, with a sense of fashion, and who wants to grow with our company ASSISTANT Sara Lee Branded Apparel has an excit- Accessories Editor. Retail management ing opportunity to help drive up the send your resume w/salary expecta- Graphic Artist Major apparel company seeks individual experience a must. Do not call. E-mail tions to : [email protected] Intimate Apparel Apparel company seeking artist for with min two years experience to work volume growth of Polo Ralph Lauren resume to: [email protected] Manufacturer of sensuous intimate generic dept to design trendy & fresh with the design and sales Men’s Underwear, Sleepwear, apparel since 1948 looking for an inde- art for junior, missy & plus. Must be departments. Responsibilities include Ultimate, and Champion Underwear in pendent sales representative for the proficient on the Mac in Illustrator & checking price inquiries, design New York City area department stores. following territories: Idaho, Oregon, Photoshop. Licensed character exp. a plus. worksheets, and status of orders. SALES ASSISTANT Washington, N. Carolina, S. Carolina, Fax resume to Joe 212-944-1181 Individual will also be involved with fab- In the position, you will achieve and Leading provider of Fashion Hand- W.Virginia, Virginia, and the New Eng- ric and accessory development. Must maintain optimal product placement bags, Backpacks, Small Leather Goods, land territory. Established customer have good organizational, communica- and visual presentation. You will be re- Belts and accessories for the Ladies, base. Must be willing to travel and serv- tion and computer skills. sponsible to service anywhere from 5 Men’s, Junior’s and Children’s markets ice existing customers and expand cus- GRAPHIC ARTIST Fax resume 212-239-2766 to 25 retail stores in the NYC area. is seeking a Sales Assistant to be tomer base. Please fax resume to: Men’s & Boys Sports related t-shirt based in the N.Y. office. The individual (323) 261-8851 company seeks graphic artists with 1-2 years retail and merchandising chosen will work closely with the Sales Product Development experience is required, as well as a Manager and Sales staff to achieve knowledge of the silk screening proc- Work with design and sales in this ess & color separation. Proficient in valid driver’s license and dependable corporate objectives. This person must major fashion industry mfr of women transportation. Excellent communica- Account Executive be able to work independently, be self- Sales Rep - Handbags Adobe Illustrator & Photoshop. &children’s accessories. Must have Brand sportswear co. seeks seasoned NY based HANDBAG company needs Fax Resumes with salary require- tion and negotiating skills for interac- motivated, proactive, a problem solver, understanding of development, tion with in-store personnel/manage- sales pros. Must have 3+ yrs exp. enthusiastic, and detail oriented. This experienced, energetic sales rep with ments to 1-212-629-3506 production, spec/tech, lab dips, strike Excellent package and growth opp. existing better specialty & department or email Alan [email protected] ment is also necessary. A 4-year position requires a candidate who will offs, approvals. Exp. in domestic & college degree is required. Fax resume to 212.695.9483 or have exposure to senior management store base in the following territories: overseas, conception thru delivery. email to [email protected] and retailers and therefore requires W. PA, OH, WV, KY Excellent communication & computer For prompt, confidential considera- the candidate to exercise integrity and IL, WI, MI, IN, MO skills a must. Exp. or will consider tion, please apply online. professionalism. It is essential for the Please Fax Resume to: 212-213-3728 or Graphic Designer new grad with fashion related degree. Account Executive candidate to be a quick learner and E-mail: [email protected] Growing Jrs. / Girls denim mfr. seeks Fax resume w/sal. req. 212-202-4837 Apply through www.saralee.com adapt to an ever changing, growing, graphic designer w/children/Jrs. exp. MAXX, NY a fashion handbag company, Click Working at Sara Lee, seeks a sales professional with specialty and fast paced business. The qualified Proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT and Search for Jobs. individual must be able to demon- Sales (Underwear) Able to work on all types of artwork: store background for expanding com- Importer seeks experienced, organized, Please refer to pany. Candidate must be sales driven, strate proven performance in the areas Fast growing Brazilian underwear knit graphics, denim embellishments detail oriented assistant to prepare spec "Retail Service Associate--NY 2--CM 256" of communication, leadership, and (women, men and children) company and prints & illustration. We offer a self-motivated, with a strong following sheets, develop purchase orders, Equal Opportunity Employer and ability to bring in new customers. execution while meeting deadlines. seeks company or independent sales competitive salary & comprehensive track/follow up production schedules, rep. in the general apparel industry benefits pkge. Fast-paced environment. Computer and analytical skills are essen- Good benefits package, and communicate with overseas offices tial. Minimum of 1-3 years experience including medical and dental. with experience in importing Email resume: [email protected] via fax and e-mail. Minimum 3 years SALES ASSISTANT operations looking to diversify and Fast paced ladies Apparel Co. seeks required. Fax resume to HR (212) 679-0311 Salary commensurate with experience. experience, MS Word and Excel No calls accepted. add underwear to their portfolio. knowledge a must. Technical garment motivated detail oriented Sales Assis- Fax resume to 212-629-6272 Please fax resume or company profile to knowledge a plus. Located near Penn tant. Must have excellent communica- or E-mail: [email protected] 973-410-1378 Station. Fax resume to: 212-465-1257 tion & computer skills Word & Excel a Account Manager $70-80K. Current exp. in Graphics Designer must. Fax resume to 212-869-9606 bras and intimate apparel req’d. Northeast Global apparel company located in territory. All established large store SWIMWEAR Secaucus, NJ seeks Graphics Designer Production Assistant Sales Assistant Major fashion industry mfr of women clients. Service buyers to maintain and Island Company, a fast growing, with at least 3 yrs experience in pack- Sales Assistant increase volume. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Senior VP Sales & Marketing for established swimwear & apparel aging & brand identities, and profi- &children’s accessories needs assis- Wanted for our fast paced, NYC show- womens private label company seeking tant to production manager. Detailed manufacturer, is seeking experienced cient in Illustrator & Photoshop. We room at 1466 Broadway. We are looking an experienced, creative sales assistant. reps in many territories both in the US offer a competitive salary, annual oriented, good with numbers, excellent for a dedicated, personable, high energy ACTIVEWEAR SALES - NY Children’s Must have complete understanding of communication & computer skills a Co. seeks Account Exec exp’d. selling &internationally. Ideal candidates bonus, 401(k), health benefits, and person to join our successful team. production, private label, merchandis- should have strong contacts at bou- opportunity for growth. To apply, send must. Some exp. or will consider new Please e-mail resume and salary req’s Girls/Boys Activewear. Must have proven ing and product development. grad with fashion related degree. track record & est’d. contacts. Mid-tier tiques, specialty & department stores. resume to [email protected] [email protected] or Please fax resume to fax number Fax resume to 305-534-2424 Equal Opportunity Employer Fax resume w/sal. req. 212-202-4837 Fax: (212) 704-0001 & upper preferred. Fax: 973-812-0581 212-382-2421 to Attn Henry. The clock says 9pm. Jade’s no-iron shirt says 9am. k/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated.k/Trademark © Incorporated, Cotton 2004. TERS. ® Service Registered Mar AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

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