SOUTH COAST NEW SOUTH WALES to Share Theircoastalwanderingswithbattalionsoftrucks,Thisisavery Goodthing

SOUTH COAST NEW SOUTH WALES to share theircoastalwanderingswithbattalionsoftrucks,thisisavery goodthing. meandering PrincesHwy,thesecondaryroadfromSydneytoMelbourne. Forpeople unwilling bythe Queensland,NSWandVictoria, thesouthcoastisserved the mainhighwaylinking Bay,fromNSW. ofit,Jervis hasnabbedarguablyTerritory thebestpart (ACT) onthecoastatall,sotocompensate,nation’s capitalisn’tactually theAustralian Capital Canberra isatextbook of20th-centuryarchitecture andtownplanningwritlife-size. The wanderdowntotheshore foraneveningthe kangaroos stroll. Cook cleared customsin1770.The beachsidelivingissogoodinsomeplacesthateven ensuring thattheremaining virgin coastlinecontinuestolookmuchasitdidwhenCaptain bodypiercing. toendupwithanunfortunate less likely bays, whilewhalesonceagainvisitinnumbersontheirannualvacations,nowthatthey’re clear.and spectacularly Dolphins,sensiblecreatures thattheyare, have setupshopin the industry doesn’treally getalook-in southofWollongong,leavingthewaters unpolluted as you’llfindontheislandcontinent.Nowthatthey’ve stoppedharpooningwhales,heavy Green, lusciousandtemperate, theNewSouth Wales (NSW)southcoastisaspretty aregion New South Wales South Coast 142 © LonelyPlanetPublications Part ofthesouthcoast’scharmissimplyamatter coastison ofaccess;where thenorth Nature doesn’tholdallthetrumps. Picturesque historic villagesdotthehinterlands while On thedriersideofshoreline ofnationalparkhave vasttracts beenestablished,

HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE:02 Hanging outwiththeseals andpenguinsat Paying respect totheMother oftheYuin Experiencing villagelife withthe‘quaint’ Watching atthedramaticgeologyof Marvelling Leaving snowywhite footprintsonthe callinginatyourcamp Havingkangaroos Montague Island people atsacred quotient atmaxin tion playitselfout( p146 ) Illawarra Escarpment brilliant sandsof site in Murramarang NationalPark Eden ’s whale-human reconcilia- ’s whale-human Gulaga Jervis Bay Jervis ( p152 ) Central Tilba (p176) (p152) ( p166 ) (p150) (p163) www. southcoast.com.au Central Tilba Gulaga Eden Jervis Bay Escarpment Montague Island Illawarra Murramarang National Park SOUTH COAST NEW SOUTH WALES

Ben 143 Boyd’s Boyd’s (1896). 6495 5000; (per adult/

or if you 6496 9131; % ( % (

is spacious and is spacious and , a route suited to suited , a route camp sites ) s Davidson Whaling Station Davidson Whaling Station 1pm & 3pm Thu-Mon) Loch Gaira Cottage , on the lake, has a store has a store , on the lake, copes with its isolation h . Boyd was an entrepreneur . Boyd was an entrepreneur Green Cape Lightstation Wonboyn – without toilets or drinkable water – or drinkable water – without toilets , an impressive structure indulgently indulgently structure , an impressive (adult/child $7/5; At the north end of the reserve,At the north end of the small Further along is the turn-off for Further along is the turn-off The southern section is accessed by mainly a along Edrom Rd there’s Eleven kilometres Wonboyn Cabins & Caravan Park This is the NSW startingThis is the NSW the 50km point for

to imagine that until 1929 the peace of this this to imagine that until 1929 the peace of dying by the agonised groans of place was rent boiling blubber. of whales and the stench 1840s with sandstone shipped built in the late gravel roads (per vehicle $7) leading off sealed $7) leading off roads (per vehicle gravel the Princes Hwy leaves Edrom Rd, which Eden. At its southern tip, the 18km south of elegant 1883 Cape Rd; cottage mid- Green www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; week/weekend $215/292) are by gazing out at awesome views. There tours the seclusion, you can spend the want to share cottage keepers’ restored night in a lavishly (sleeps six). to the historic turn-off a picnic in you can have Bay where on Twofold the rustic gardens of whaling paraphernalia remains, Not much the story. It’s hard signs tell but interpretive www.wonboyncabins.com.au; Wonboyn Rd; camp sites per Wonboyn www.wonboyncabins.com.au; 2 people $25, cabins $65-112; bellbird song. with resonates PARK BEN BOYD NATIONAL pauses for breath The wilderness barely starting 10,709-hectare again at before Boyd National Park who failed spectacularly in his efforts to around Eden in 1850. This build an empire his follies, along with some of park protects with isolated a dramatic coastline peppered It’s split into two sections,beaches. with Eden squeezed in between. changes from Croajingolong National Park National Park Croajingolong from changes Reserve. Nature Nadgee ) to Vehicle p139 ( sta- allowed as far as the ranger access is only in the reserve’s River Merrica tion near the northern section. Wilderness Walk Nadgee Howe Basic hikers. experienced child $5/2) re- are Permits along the track. spread are walk; apply to commencing the before quired Service & Wildlife the National Parks (NPWS) ). p146 ( Merimbula in settlement selling petrol and basic supplies. Tower Nadgee

S E A

See Around Wollongong Map p176

Cape Howe

SYDNEY

T A S M A N

Stanwell Park

Helensburgh

Shoalhaven Heads

Mallacoota 1

Sussex Inlet

Eden

Ulladulla

Pambula

Tathra

Bawley Point

Merimbula

Bermagui

Kiama

Tuross Head 1

Malua Bay

Mossy Point 1

Batemans Bay

Moruya

Gosford

Genoa 31

Windsor

Nowra

Huskisson

ὈὈὈὈὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὄ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

Bega 52

Cobargo

Park

Narooma

Bodalla

Morton

Camden

National

Bargo 18

Picton

Coast Map p164 Map Coast

See Shoalhaven See

Candelo

Penrith

Wollongong

Braidwood

Bowral

Marulan

Wadbilliga

Coast Map p144 Map Coast Katoomba Sapphire See

National Park

Park

Deua

Moss Vale 00 50 miles 100 km

Araluen

Wollemi

National Range Tarago

Delegate

National

continues, but its name continues, but its name Reserve •• Nadgee Nature SAPPHIRE COAST

Cooma

Lithgow

National Park

Bombala

National Park See Eurobodalla Coast Map p151

Blue Mountains

Michelago

South East Forests

Queanbeyan

Nimmitabel

Capertee 32 Dividing Crookwell 23

CANBERRA ὈὈὈὈὈὈὄ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀὄὄὄὄ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὄ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Goulburn

Jindabyne

Park

Rockley Portland Great 25

National

ACT 31

Tuena

Namadgi

Sofala

Adaminaby

Murrumbateman

Trunkey Creek

(2228m) 18

Bathurst 24

Kiandra

Mt Kosciuszko

Park

Yass SOUTH COAST NSW COAST SOUTH

Alpine

National

Gelantipy

National

Thredbo

Blayney

Kosciuszko

SAPPHIRE COAST NADGEE NATURE RESERVE NADGEE NATURE RESERVE Howe Wilderness Continuing over the state border the the state Continuing over will yield a bit of mostly unblemished coast set mostly unblemished will yield a bit of the surrounds. This is the startin rugged of Yuin people. the traditional lands of every shade of blue. You won’t see a lot of You won’t seeblue. a lot of every shade of it from the Princes Hwy, but you can feel confident that taking any road east just about with the coast’s pristine water revelling in in revelling with the coast’s pristine water Not to be outdone by Queensland’s Gold Not to be outdone by Queensland’s Gold NSW con- Coast, the southernmost part of is apt, The moniker too. itselfsiders precious

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