Bonnes Mares 1999

At the start of Michel de Saint-Pierre’s novel The Aristocrats, set in Burgundy, the incorrigible twins Osmond and Louis-César get their hands on a bottle of Bonnes Mares 1937 forgotten in the cellars of the family château. Secretly, greedily, they drink the “subtle, fiery” liquid straight from the bottle. Drunk in this way, or more conventionally, this Grand always leads to unforgettable memories!

HISTORY

The name of Bonnes Mares remains a puzzle. Is it a reminder of mother goddesses? An antique bas-relief illustrating this divine threesome, protecting motherhood, life and earthly fruit, was purportedly discovered on the site but is now lost. The idea sounds implausible, no better than the suggestion that it is a corruption of “bonnes mères”, good mothers. What is certain is that the was created by the Bernardine Sisters of Notre-Dame de Tart (between Dijon and Saint-Jean-de-Losne), the main female branch of the order, closely linked with Cîteaux. Founded in 1125, this abbey planted several in the 1140s, in particular the and Bonnes Mares at Morey-Saint-Denis. The congregation moved to Dijon in 1623, but retained its vines until the Revolution in 1789.

It seems more likely that the name comes from the old French and Burgundian word marer (to cultivate). The Bonnes Mares, then, are well maintained vines, lovingly cared for. They are certainly worth the effort!

Les Bonnes Mares has never been a monopole enclosure, simply a jointly-held climat. Until the Revolution, the owners were mostly religious communities, noble and bourgeois families who left their mark on history, many of which have streets named after them in Dijon.

OUR VINES

Geographic situation: The appellation sits astride the border between Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle- Musigny. Our vineyard is located in an old quarry on the larger side, in Chambolle-Musigny, close to the border between the two villages’ land, where the influences of the terroir are balanced against the sheen of .

Grape variety: 100% Pinot Noir. Soil and subsoil: Pure silt with a very low rough sand equivalent. Fairly pebbly, very calcareous. GEST* compost. Planting density: 11,111 vines/ha. Geographic situation: Micro-climate as the parcel is partly sheltered by rock from the old quarry. Exposure: East-facing. Plantings: 1901-02, 1915-16, 1980-81, 1988-89, 1991-92, 1997-98. Pest management: 1992. Organic agriculture: 1998. Received official approval in 2000. Training style: Guyot. Current changes: Planting fruit trees (almond, vine peach) around the vineyards.

HARVEST

Harvest date: September 21st, 1999. Healthy crop. Selection: In the vineyard and on arrival in the winery.

VINIFICATION

Harvest de-stemmed, not crushed. No yeast or enzyme addition. Maceration: pre-fermentation, cold. Length of maceration: 20 days. Pigeage: crust broken twice a day.

AGEING

Length: 18 months. Type: In barrels. Percentage of new barrels: 40%. Toasting: Long and gentle heat, without charring. Source of wood: Bertranges forest, Nevers. Racking: whole cuvée racked once. No fining, no filtration.

BOTTLING

April 2001. Limited to 2,443 bottles, 24 magnums and 8 jeroboams.

* Groupement d’Étude et de Suivi des Terroirs

Tasting notes from 5th April 2001, by Michel Smolarek. Master Sommelier, Best Sommelier in Burgundy, 1988 finalist in the Best French Sommelier competition.

Black-cherry colour. The periphery of the meniscus is violet indicating youthfulness. The nose is compelling, the aromas are extremely delicate with a hint of small, ripe red fruit (blackcurrant, wild blackberry). Wood ageing is well mastered, without being excessive. The mouth is smooth and silky; the tannins are fat but not hard. Finesse prevails over flesh. A wine with eternal length… The harmony of a great terroir. Pure fruit, silky flesh, masterly length…