Visiting : The Crown Jewel of Hill Country

The first thing you notice is its sheer size. As you approach Enchanted Rock by car, you see that the red dome differs from other hills in the Hill Country. A mile and a half wide, it’s smooth rock face curves gracefully like a jewel set into the landscape.

It’s actually the inside of a volcano; an outcropping of rock, called a , that looks like it was belched from inside the earth. The huge rock is the main feature of the Texas Park bearing its name.

Among the hills in this area between Fredericksburg and Llano, the gently sloped rock surface leads to the pinnacle of Enchanted Rock State Park, a popular destiny for day-trippers and casual hikers. When you’re actually on the rock, however, you begin to see why people are passionate about this place. Mysterious natural nooks, crannies and caves invite exploration. Usually some assortment of deer, vultures, snakes and lizards add life to the trip. The views from the top are like nothing you’ve seen in the Hill Country.

But aside from its beauty and the range of activities available – hiking, camping, rock-climbing, even fishing – “the rock” is magical.

The Indians believed the rock held spirits that emerged at night as ghost fires. They attributed its nightly creaks and groans to angry spirits of gods who were tricked by an ancient Indian chief long ago. Instead of sacrificing his own daughter, as ritual required, he offered of a goat instead. His deceipt enraged the gods. For his punishment, the chief disappeared and was forced to roam the rock at night. From then on, no Indian would walk on the mountain. They stayed around the boulders that surround the dome, but the mountain itself was off limits.

In 1841 a Texas Ranger named John Hayes found himself cut off from an expedition party and surrounded by a group of Indians. Knowing their superstition about the mountain, Hayes rode to Enchanted Rock and held his ground until the Indians disbanded or were killed. Hayes maintained that he defeated them all with just two pistols and a shotgun, although historians are dubious about his claim. Nevertheless, the story stuck. Ghost watchers believe there are spirits roaming all over Enchanted Rock.

Those sounds you hear are real, though, and have a scientific explanation. They come from the rock as it cools at night after basking in the hot Texas sun all day. The slight expansion and contraction of the rocks really do make it feel and sound like the rock is breathing. In addition to the sounds, and the flaming rosy beauty of the rock at dusk and sunrise, some people say they see odd lights at the top of the hill at night.

Night hikes are popular here at the Texas State Park, if you decide to stay overnight. The dome’s views stun visitors into the same sort of awe that must have inspired the Tonkawa Indians centuries ago. Sunsets and stargazing are unparalleled because of the height and visibility from the peak of Enchanted Rock. Since the park is a couple hours drive from the lights of Austin, the closest big city, Enchanted Rock’s darkness is uncommonly rich.

Although campgrounds are available, with fire pits and warm running water, most visitors consider Enchanted Rock a day trip, and succeed in reaching the 425-foot summit within an hour, depending on their fitness and the route they choose. The line of cars waiting to get in can get long, so the early visitor enjoys quick entry – and cooler temperatures. Lots of families and children come out on the weekends, especially in spring and fall. If you want the park all to yourself, come during the week and stay away from holidays and spring break.

The State Park provides a fairly easy hike for most, as long as you wear sensible shoes and bring water. There’s no shelter and no shade, so prepare for exposure. Folks who prefer a more difficult route to the top, including some bona fide , can simply stray from the beaten paths to find all the adventure they want.

On the north side of the rock is a cave with some pretty tight squeezes. People have painted arrows on the walls to encourage you to keep going. Bats and spiders live inside Enchanted Rock, so the caves are not for everyone, but if you like spelunking, you have a couple to choose from. You may even find a few less traveled caves of your own. Since the rock is solid granite, it lacks stalactites and water, although the natural coolness and dampness provides welcome relief from the hot southern sun.

When you plan a trip to Enchanted Rock, remember, “More is more.” Pack more water than you think is necessary. If you’re planning a night hike to the peak, bring two flashlights instead of one. Apply more sunscreen than usual. And experience more enchantment than any other state park in Texas.

By Jen McGahan Picture source: http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/enchanted-rock