Vintage guide A fresh vintage that rewarded 2016 careful work in the vineyard, especially at . Elegant and pleasant wines, very drinkable. A good vintage, with a little rain 2015 to refresh a hot summer. Excellent white wines and good reds. Keep. Winter was cold with average Regional profile 2014 rain, spring was good and summer was hot. Rain in the final phase of ‘The region’s Above: winemaker Luigi Valori has a respect for ripening reduced the juice concentration. So the simple pleasures in life and farms organically not a good year for the riservas. Drink soon. Montepulciano Cold winter without much rain, d’Abruzzo DOC is its most important but abundant rain in spring made Colline Teramane denomination, comprising 57% of plantings 2013 wines have up for this. A very hot summer resulted in Characterful Montepulciano d’Abruzzo reds top the bill in this and covering about 19,000ha. Its 800,000hl of another great year for the riserva wines. Keep. a style best wine accounts for almost 80% of the region’s small region in Abruzzo’s north, but there’s an intriguing cast of quality wine, and the trend is for steady A good vintage for some, albeit other white and rosé styles to discover too, says Susan Hulme MW described as growth. By contrast, Colline Teramane DOCG 2012 a little rainy but hot during only produces about 5,000hl per year, so the summer; it was necessary to thin bunches. an “iron fist challenge is to deliver some identity and Good wines. Keep for a while. quality in the glass that sets it apart from the Very cold winter with rain and two WHEN COLLINE TERAMANE became a DOCG making it seem lower than it truly is. Above: the Masciarelli in a velvet rest of the region. 2011 weeks of snow. A very hot summer in 2003, it took a big step forward along the Colline Teramane DOCG is also the only estate was the first in The DOCG’s Montepulciano wines have a giving a very good to exceptional year. road to quality. Its creation was not just Abruzzo denomination for the Montepulciano the region to introduce glove”’ style best described as an ‘iron fist in a velvet Balanced and elegant wines. Keep. window dressing or the result of political grape which requires the wines to be bottled Guyot-trained vines glove’, in that some of the heft and fleshiness Cold winter, with a lot of rain and machinations; the DOCG has real teeth. within the production zone. This is a bold of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo in a hot climate is one week of snow. However, To start with, it is the first denomination in declaration of intent, bearing in mind that balanced by a firm tannic grip, fresh acidity 2010 both spring and summer were hot. A good Abruzzo to base its regulations on yield Abruzzo is still dominated by large-scale and a herbal, rosemary quality on some wines, year for riservas. Keep. per vine rather than on hectolitres per hectare. cooperatives; about 55% to 60% of the wine which is derived from their particular terroir. Measuring yield by kilograms per vine is a produced today is still sold in bulk and six out Mild, wet winter, followed by a much more rigorous and honest representation of 10 bottles are bottled outside the region. Climate control 2009 wet spring and a hot summer; of true yield and potential concentration as Abruzzo covers a large area, and is situated The DOCG is in , the northernmost of too humid in some areas. Powerful reds and opposed to yield per hectare, where dead or on the eastern side of , about two-thirds Abruzzo’s four provinces. It is bounded to the not-so-fresh whites. Drink soon. diseased vines can artificially affect the yield, down the leg of the boot. Montepulciano west by the Monti della Laga and to the ➢

Six names to look out for What is amazing is the ability of calcareous soils limit yield they make some of the appeal, but there is breadth and depth to these wines to age so positively and produce the quality best traditional-method the range – from good-quality, accessible Abbazia di Propezzano Falanghina, , Passerina and – as well as how beautifully they Faraone is looking for. The sparkling wines in the and affordable bottles to the excellent Paolo de Strasser’s wines are giving a fermented in amphorae. will evolve in the glass. One not very appealing Faraone region, not to mention single-vineyard wines. new lease of life to Propezzano Abbey, to be missed. Spumante Classico NV is some of the best where wine has been made since the Emidio Pepe non-dosage. Montepulciano wines. Valori sixth century. I love the Emidio Pepe’s wines have Faraone Vini Standing with Luigi Valori last year in his super-modern look of the iconic status not only in the Federico Faraone makes a Illuminati Masciarelli 40-year-old vineyard Vigna Sant’Angelo, wines and even more the Colline Teramane and very smart The Illuminati family has a Marina Cvetic Marina Cvetic has the intense June heat mitigated by a fact that he likes pushing Abruzzo but worldwide. from the indigenous long association with continued the work of her breeze, it was impossible not to share his the boundaries with his An artisanal producer par Passerina grape. Its low pH Colline Teramane, having made wine in husband Gianni Masciarelli, who sadly enthusiasm. He is a lover of philosophy, winemaking. Although he excellence, he cultivates and high acidity means the area since 1890. The company is now died in 2008 in his early 50s. Gianni was a committed to his vineyards and with a specialises in single- his grapes biodynamically these wines can age a little in the hands of Stefano and Lorenzo pioneer of Abruzzo wines and one of the deep appreciation of nature and the wines made from and makes wines as too. Vines are planted on Illuminati, who use the latest winemaking first to introduce the Guyot training simple pleasures in life. Cultivation has indigenous grapes, be sure naturally as possible, with the hills near Borgo Spoltino technology to make quality wines. With system and the use of French oak to the been organic since 2015 and the poor, Paolo de Strasser to try his blend of no added yeast or sulphur. where naturally fresh, the aid of temperature-controlled cellars, region. These wines have international sandy soils give excellent wines.

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MARCHE A14 Rome 4 2 6 I TA LY MONTAGNA 3 DEI FIORI Teramo COLLINE TERAMANE Tyrrhenian DOCG 1 Sea south/southwest by the Gran Sasso massif, Left: Montepulciano in the Illuminati vineyard Colli Aprutini IGT Vomano Ionian which includes Corno Grande, the highest Corno Atri Sea Grande TERAMO SICILY peak in the Apennines; to the east lie a chain GRAN SASSO MASSIF A14 Pescara of golden beaches on the Adriatic coast. White magic Penne A24 Average temperatures throughout the However, Montepulciano is not the only player Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Ortona Limit of Adriatic growing period (2,000 degree days) ensure on the scene in Teramo. In Controguerra DOC Abruzzo L’Aquila DOC Chieti wine region Sea that the Montepulciano grapes reach optimum and in the wider Colli Aprutini IGT, native Pescara 5 A25 maturation, but the specific location of Colline white varieties such as Passerina and MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO Teramane creates a special mesoclimate that’s particularly Pecorino – with its lively, bright Sangro A14 beneficial to the vine. Cooling breezes from lemon, savoury qualities – are becoming To Rome A25 the sea during the day temper the intense fashionable and sought-after. ABRUZZO summer heat and prevent over-ripening, while Another trend is for some producers to To Taranto Abruzzo wineries cool mountain winds roll down from snow- experiment with natural winemaking, coaxing 1 Abbazia di Propezzano 2 Emidio Pepe capped mountains at night, creating dramatic more out of native grapes such as the widely 3 Faraone Vini Limit of Abruzzo temperature differences between night and proud of our Montepulciano grapes. It was an grown Trebbiano, while challenging and 4 Illuminati wine region MOLISE 5 Masciarelli day, and preserving acidity in the grapes. acknowledgement of the variety’s better and redefining our understanding of them. Some 6 Valori 0 10 20 30 40 Add this to hillside vineyard sites with clay different qualities… and we must express all of delicious sparkling wines are also being made kilometres

Map: Maggie Nelson Maggie Map: and limestone sub-soils and you get the key the potential of this extraordinary grape so from these indigenous white varieties. ingredients for a special terroir. It is Abruzzo’s that we can really be the best area for Equally delightful are the deeply coloured Colline Teramane at a glance only DOCG, so, using the same beloved red Montepulciano in Abruzzo.’ rosé Montepulciano wines made under the variety, Montepulciano, can it deliver in terms Cerulli adds: ‘The Colline Teramane Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC. These more Colline Teramane White Trebbiano, numerous are of quality and identity? Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOCG is the flavoursome, serious, traditional-style rosatos Montepulciano Pecorino, Passerina permitted, both Italian According to Enrico Cerulli, vice-president ambassador of this territory, representing are gaining popularity in their native Italy, d’Abruzzo DOCG and international and international of the Consorzio di Tutela Colline Teramane, simply its characteristics of elegance, where the locals enjoy them with their typical Red grape varieties varieties varieties a strong DOCG is based upon three tenets: restraint, character and ambition.’ Sunday night pizza Margherita instead of the Montepulciano (min Red Montepulciano Vineyard area 175ha specific geographic conditions, a specific more traditional beer and pizza combination 90%), Sangiovese and international grape variety and human influence. Certainly which used to be alla moda. (max 10%) varieties Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane satisfies the first two, and ‘We must express all of the potential of this All in all, there really is a lot to enjoy and Vineyard area 103ha Vineyard area 39ha DOC among the 50 producers who are members of discover in this corner of Abruzzo. D Grape varieties the consorzio there is a strong core of very extraordinary grape so we can really be the Controguerra DOC Colli Aprutini IGT Montepulciano (100%) good to great producers. Susan Hulme MW runs her own wine education Grape varieties Grape varieties Vineyard area 608ha One of these, Stefano Illuminati, says: ‘Being best area for Montepulciano in Abruzzo’ and consultancy company, Vintuition, and has

awarded the DOCG in 2003 meant we could be (2) Agency Time Photographs: Stefano Illuminati (above) lived and worked in Italy

Hulme’s top Abruzzo whites and reds to try Illuminati, Zanna, Colline Teramane plum, cream and spice flavours. Opulence is Inky black core, narrow youthful purple rim, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2011 held in check with firm tannins and juicy lovely nose with super-clean, sweet oak Emidio Pepe, Pecorino, a long, savoury, salty finish. A very stylish This is a serious style of rosé and just how 93 acidity. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13.5% spice, ripe black cherries, blackberries and Colli Aprutini 2O15 92 wine from a producer who combines the the Abruzzesi like to drink it. Deep cherry £30.46 Mondial cinnamon spice. Very concentrated with a £114 Buon Vino best traditions with a modern twist. colour, bold blueberry and raspberry Only made in the best years. Grapes come Tenuta Barone di Valforte, velvety smooth texture and dark fruits, Natural winemaking at its best. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% flavours, mouthwateringly juicy acidity and from 50-year-old vines planted in the Colle Sale, Colline Teramane liquorice and spice flavours; but balanced This evolves beautifully in the a lingering, savoury, dry finish. Deliciously Zanna vineyard. Powerful and intense on Montepulciano d’Abruzzo by firm tannins and refreshing acidity. glass, revealing bruised apple, Strappelli, Soprano Pecorino, drinkable. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5% the palate yet with a great balance and 2013 93 Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% honey and Champagne-like Colli Aprutini 2016 90 elegance. Violet and sweet liquorice £25.60 Colasanti aromas. Then come contrasting N/A UK www.cantinastrappelli.it Camillo Montori, Fonte aromas. Rich, velvety texture, with fresh, There is a wonderful texture Cerulli Spinozzi, Torre green herb and candied lemon Pale lemon/lime, bright yellow apple, Cupa, Colline Teramane green herb notes, bright acidity and fine and weight to this wine, which is Miglori, Montepulciano peel flavours; round, soft and rosemary and sage-like notes on the nose, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo tannins. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5% silky and concentrated on the d’Abruzzo 2010 90 creamy texture with a long, concentrated and full mid-palate, with a 2010 93 palate without being heavy. N/A UK www.cerullispininozzi.it salty finish. Flows beautifully across the lingering, savoury finish. I love the contrast £23.50 Bat & Bottle Masciarelli, Villa Gemma, Rich dark fruit, smoke and tar A single-vineyard wine aged for palate. Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 14% here between the fresh, crunchy green Intriguing aromas of dense, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011 93 notes are balanced by green 22 months in French barriques. apple, citrus notes and rich texture, in dark-berried fruit, black cherry £43.85-£53.50 Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene, herb flavours and fresh, mouthwatering Complex aromas of warm toast, Abbazia di Propezzano, Pecorino, combination with the creamy, salty and blackberry, with notes of Vini Italiani acidity. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14% coffee bean, smoke and tar with Colli Aprutini 2016 90 flavours. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14% coal and tar. Super-smooth Grapes come from the 30-year-old Cave dark cherry, raspberry and POA Swig texture, deep concentration vineyard, which is just 7ha in size. Pristine Valori, Vigna Sant’Angelo, Colline rosemary notes. Very elegant, Medium-deep lemon colour, bright aromas Masciarelli, Villa Gemma, Cerasuolo and firm but finely compact aromas of lavender and beeswax, with dark Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo with nicely managed tannins; of white flowers and apples, bright and d'Abruzzo 2016 90 tannins give this traditional style wine the red and black berry fruit. Velvety smooth 2010 93 the palate is concentrated yet refined, breezy on the palate, with juicy acidity and £15 Les Caves de Pyrene wow factor. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 15% texture with compact, refined tannins and £14.43 Tannico rather than hefty. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14%

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