SKISPECIAL

Heavenly highs at Val d’Isère A trip to the top resort of Val D’Isère persuades Susan Morrell that there’s a lot more to skiing than designer gear and dancing on tables

Above and above left: the village and surrounding mountains of Val d’Isère lose your eyes the resort by car taking in a picnic Our small group arrived at the . . . drop your beside glass-like Lake ), wood-clad Chalet Morelle (clearly poles . . . now and here I was in full-on ski bun- a good omen for me) and felt like flap your arms ny mode and loving every minute we’d stepped inside a storybook like a bird!’’ of it. drawing. It was springtime, and yet These wer- As a novice skier I was tru- a thick white frosting still clung to ‘Cen’t exactly the instructions I had ly spoiled at Val d’Isère, which is the rooftop and surrounding trees, anticipated for my first ski lesson considered the crème de la crème painting everything a welcoming in the French . But standing of Alpine ski resorts. Much of the winter white. amid the radiant glow of sunlight visiting clientele could be seen el- Inside, we instantly melted into on the snow of Val d’Isère, dur- egantly shushing around in impos- the cosy decor; the cabin-like en ing a private lesson with a lovely sibly smart ski suits and designer suite bedrooms and convivial com- Frenchman named Marc, I proba- sunglasses. The rest of us – fami- mon area are perfectly suited for bly would have followed him off a ly groups, casual skiers, and awk- dining together and sipping wine cliff. The surrounding vista of dra- ward, pigeon-toed newbies in bor- by the log fire. But there was no matic mountain peaks framed in a rowed ski gear – are just as well time to luxuriate just yet, because clear blue sky was just that good. cared for. And certainly there’s no on a short weekend trip such as Soon I was following Marc, with dress code at the après ski. ours, slope time was precious (or his tanned saisonnière skin and Even better for someone who so they told me as they pried me perpetual smile, in lazy loops along hadn’t been on a pair of skis in her out of the chalet). It was already what must have been Val d’Isère’s adult life, all the details of my trip time for our afternoon lessons. version of the bunny hill. This was were arranged by High Life, Ire- I may have been pigeon-toed Chalet Morelle provides cosy accommodation for skiers my beginner’s lesson with Evolu- land’s ski chalet holiday experts. and knock-kneed at the start, but I tion 2, one of 19 ski schools oper- From the flights and transfers, to was starting to feel decidedly more Mike, my friendly Glaswegian in- in favour of much a cooler parallel ating at this world-renowned ski equipment hire and dietary re- Olympian. Or perhaps that was the structor from the TDC ski school, ski style. And with only one em- resort. quests for the in-chalet dinners, effect of drinking frosty post-les- told me to forget everything I had barrassing face-plant to my credit. Just hours after touching down Highlife took care of everything so son beers at high altitude. just learned. Unnerving perhaps, All these lessons are fine and from our Dublin to Geneva flight I could concentrate on my clumsy My confidence took a temporary but shortly after another private good, of course, but I was here for (including an easy connection to snowplow. knock the following morning when lesson, I had ditched my snowplow the view - and the après ski - nei-

20 Magazine October 27 2013 The Sunday Business Post SKISPECIAL Five of the best European ski chalets

Chalet Lolana, , The large open living space, hard-carved furnishings and spacious Savo- yard interiors make this a family-friendly chalet with style. Make use of the outdoor hot tub, sundeck and pool table while enjoying the Highlife treat- ment . Sleeps 13-15. For rates and bookings, see highlife.ie. Chalet Alta Badia, Dolomites, Nestled away in a South Tyrolean village is this classically-designed chalet with a traditional wood- beamed interior and luxury modern finishes, such as a sleek kitchen and corner fireplace. Seven-night packages include accommodation for up to eight people and a Cham- pagne welcome. Be sure to eat your way around the gourmet moun- tain huts along the slopes, where Michelin-starred chefs prepare “slope eats’’ to accompany region- al wines. For quotes on Chalet Alta Badia, visit italianstylevillas.com. Chalet Le Rocher, Val d’Isere, France After enjoying Val d’Isère’s world class skiing, melt into this massive luxury chalet, which features an in- door swimming pool, outdoor hot tub, private gym and hammam. The traditional Alpine decor is souped up to five-star level, with exposed beams and leather details, making the slopes have to work that much harder to tempt you away. Sleeps 14. To book, see scottdunn.com. Above and above left: the village and surrounding mountains of Val d’Isère Chalet Artemis, ther of which I had ever experi- by cheesecake is hard to describe, its doorknobs shaped like choco- Nasserein, St Anton, enced before. The pristine snow, but `heavenly’ comes close. late bars. Austria still in evidence in the late season, A Highlife ski chalet holiday I happily waddled out of there If unwinding with a glass of wine and the crisp, Alpine air made my is an ideal way to experience a with fresh breads, buttery pastries, and classic movie is your idea of lungs feel renewed. And at Le Coin French ski holiday (they also offer raspberry jam and handmade choc- après ski, then indulge in this con- des Amis and La Folie Douce, pop- chalets in Morzine and Meribel). olates. Souvenirs of my first ever temporary ski chalet, which fea- ular apres ski spots where you can Every detail is taken care of by ski holiday, which proved to be a tures a private cinema room along sip relaxed drinks or dance on the your chalet host, including trans- feast for all the senses and an en- with hot tub, steam room and in- table, depending on the time of portation, excursions and equip- joyable challenge for the waistline. door pool. Sleeps 12. For informa- day, I felt that tingling of recent- ment fitting. tion, visit scottdunn.com. ly awakened muscles and rush of As we sat around an upturned athletic adrenaline that can only be barrel, rosy-cheeked grins hovering Factfile Chalet Beriozka, La tamed with a gin and tonic. over mugs of beer and hot cocoa, Tania, France After a hard day’s falling down after yet another perfect Alpine af- The Highlife ski season runs from in the snow, retreating to our cha- ternoon, I began to really under- November 30 to April 20, with Enjoy the 600 kilometres of pistes let was a return to that storybook stand what the European ski hol- weeklong ski holidays in France in the Three Valleys region of the idyll. The bubbling jacuzzi was the iday is all about. You don’t need starting from €840 for adults and French Alps. Ski in and out of your perfect antidote to aching legs. Lit- designer gear, just an adventurous €686 for children under 12. Short private chalet in the village of La Ta- tle touches like afternoon sweets spirit and a love of hot tubs, beau- breaks of three to four nights are nia, and enjoy in-chalet ski fitting, and complimentary coffee or wine tiful mountain scenery and good also available from €514 per private terrace and seven en suite made us feel like house guests of a food. person. Prices include minibus bedrooms. The traditional wood very posh family member. And you can really go to town transfers to and from your chalet, and stone chalet is warm and wel- Our private chef spoiled us with cancelling out all that exercise in breakfast and dinner in the chalet, coming, secluded among the pines, dishes such as mushroom and the adorable village of Val d’Isère. complimentary bar and Highlife Ski while the village itself is car-free, thyme tart with crispy poached egg While my friends set off to clean Discovery Tours. Highlife can also eco-friendly and a hidden gem of and then blew us away with his out the end of season sales in the arrange flexible flights, lift passes, the region. Sleeps 16. For rates white chocolate Ferrero Rocher ski shops, I headed over to Maison lessons and equipment hire. and bookings, see skibeat.co.uk. cheesecake. The sleep one experi- Chevallot, a patisserie and choco- highlife.ie, 01-6771100. Susan Morrell ences after a day’s skiing followed late shop that caught my eye with

The Sunday Business Post October 27 2013 Magazine 21