ISSUE 1 MAY 2017

THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE JUST FOR

Elevate your skills with tips from Kim Collins Summer from the Ann Normandy label trends -led Must-have mini bags Hottest floral fabrics

Simplicity PLUS Our essential guide to getting the best fit!

WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM SIMPLICITY learn to sew_BOOKAZINE 16/03/2017 12:28 Page 1

Learn to Sew with PREPARE NECK NECK 1 PREPARE

Build your sewing confidence and your

YOUR FABRIC 2 with our latest Learn to Sew . APPLY BACK RUFFLE 3 APPLY 4 INSERT SLEEVES

PATTERN 8335

Simplicity, New Look and Burda patterns available nationwide. For local stockist information Tel 0161 480 8734 or browse and buy online at www.simplicitynewlook.com

simplicitypins sewsimplicity simplicitynewlook SimplicityVideo Hello and welcome

Hello and welcome to the first-ever edition of The Pattern Pages. The Pattern Pages is an independent digital dressmaking magazine that’s full of fashion, dressmaking, style and fun things to make. The last few days have been full of trials and tribulations but we finally got there, and are excited to show you what we’ve been working on! Whether you’re looking for your next project to sew or just want to find out all the gossip about dressmaking – we’ve got it all together Julie Bonnar in one place. This is our summer issue, and we’ve picked our favourite holiday essentials from Simplicity and New Look sewing patterns for a suitcase of home-sewn garments, we focus on embroidery and how you can tap into this trend, as look at mini , cold shoulder tops and rose-gold haberdashery. We chat with Peggy Mead from Sew House Seven and Ann Grose from Designer about their patterns. The fabulous Kim Collins from Ann Normandy shares her couture sewing tips with us too.

Hope you enjoy and don’t forget we’re interactive so you can click the links to visit the websites!

Julie and Em

Julie Bonnar Emily Bonnar Emily Bonnar PS We’ll be back at the beginning of August with issue 2.

ISSUE 1 MAY 2017

FRONT COVER THE PATTERN PAGES Thanks to our friend

THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE Kim Collins from www.thepatternpages.com JUST FOR DRESSMAKERS Elevate your Ann Normandy for our sewing skills with tips from Kim Collins amazing first front Twitter: @ThePatternPages from the Ann Summer Normandy label cover photo. Pinterest: www.pinterest/thepatternpages Photographer: Facebook: www.facebook.com/thepatternpages trends Fashion-led embroidery Must-have mini bags Hottest floral fabrics Steve Ragland, Steve Instagram: www.instagram.com/thepatternpages Ragland Photography Model: Stefanie Miller, Production Plus EDITORS DESIGNER PLUS Simplicity Our essential - The Talent Shop Julie Bonnar Sarah Barnes guide to getting the best fit! Stylist: Brandie Brancheau Emily Bonnar [email protected] +44 (0)23 9311 7144

WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM

www.thepatternpages.com 3 ICHF Dressmaking A4:Layout 1 21/04/2017 14:45 Page 1

Discover dressmaking ideas and fabric inspiration!

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HARROGATE CONVENTION CENTRE • 11 - 13 MAY ------NEC, BIRMINGHAM • 30 JUNE - 2 JULY ------x EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER • 7 - 9 SEPTEMBER ------WESTPOINT, EXETER • 21 - 24 SEPTEMBER

KORBOND SEWING STUDIO - JENNIFFER TAYLOR - PAT LUMSDALE PATCHWORK BUNTING WORKSHOPS - INKBERROW DESIGN CENTRE - KIMONO DRESSING

Buy tickets at ichfevents.co.uk or phone Ticket Hotline 01425 277 988 CHILDREN UNDER 16 FREE when accompanied by an adult £2OFF EACH ADULT AND SENIOR TICKET A Time Inc. UK Company Ordered in advance (at least one week before the show) 12 33

34 CONTENTS 6 Summer edit…. 6 Print and sew 20 Sew the look – cold shoulder 34 Holiday essentials from Make a custom camisole with A look at the latest Simplicity and New Look your own fabric design Hooked on books 37 On our radar 9 to toe 23 Sewing books that you’re going The latest sewing news 10 tips on how to flatter your to want to have on your bookshelf figure when you sew Embrace embroidery 12 Makers in the spotlight 38 How to tap into the embroidered trend Hot fabrics 25 Designer Stitch Make a fuss about florals Take one classic 60-minute make 40 white 14 Softly softly 29 Quick and quirky city clutch Embroidery, see how it’s done by We put hardworking hand Janome professionals creams to the test 10 minutes with… 43 Ana Valls from CocoWawa Crafts We heart handmade 17 Couture sewing tips 30 Stylish accessories that sewers will love Elevate your sewing skills Made to measure 44 with Kim Collins Our essential guide to getting the best fit! Maker’s in the spotlight 18 Peggy Mead, the designer behind Small talk 33 Colour trend 46 Sew House Seven Downsize your Everything’s coming up rose gold

www.thepatternpages.com 5 SUMMER EDIT We pick our favourite holiday essentials from Simplicity and New Look sewing patterns for a suitcase of home-sewn garments

LOVELY LUGGAGE Brighten up your luggage with beautiful coordinated travel bags and contrasting luggage tags.

Simplicity 8176

PERFECT FOR PLAY Show off your legs with this stylish playsuit with Simplicity 2274 crossover and .

A TO SWOOSH Add a touch of feminine charm to your summer wardrobe with the latest shape dirndl skirt. Why not combine with a on-trend floral print for maximum style?

Simplicity 6493

6 www.thepatternpages.com SUMMER edit

RETRO This is a great last minute make COVER UP KIMONO for a length of favourite fabric. A pretty kimono is a vacation must- Based on an original ’70s pattern, have. Throw it over a , wear it its super quick wrap to make with to protect your shoulders against no zips or ! the sun and on cooler evenings. This sewing pattern comes in Simplicity 1100 a variety of lengths as well as fun options like fringe, lace, ruffles or flounces to get the look you love!

Simplicity 8172

New Look 6498

DAY-TO-NIGHT A great dress for the daytime in a shorter version, and perfect for evenings out made in the longer length. Be more Boho RELAXED by adding a lace-contrasting A cropped pair of lightweight panel to the ! fabric trousers is a holiday staple, and this pattern has handy side pockets and is easy to sew.

To view more patterns visit Simplicity New Look, www.simplicity newlook.com Simplicity 8299

www.thepatternpages.com 7 This two needle 3 and 4 over- lock machine is perfect for all fabrics from silk to leather. The differential feed ratio is adjustable from .05 to 2.25 providing increased control for handling. Threading is sim- ple, with colour coded guides and a self-threading lower looper. The OL300 Creativelock switches to rolled hemming without having to change the needle plate! Visit www.sew2go.co.uk and enter the code MAY100 On our radar Things we thought you might like to know......

Dressmaker’s show and tell IMPATIENT SEWER? Where have you been if you haven’t attended one of the Stitching, Sewing & Have you fallen in love with The Avid - Hobbycrafts shows! Discover dressmaking ideas, fabric inspiration and all the stress patterns? The good news is that you haberdashery supplies you could ever dream of. It’s also a chance to find lots of can now buy the , Day Dress new products, demonstrations, take part in workshops and uncover the and Raglan Dress as digital patterns. latest trends and sewing tools. Korbond is known for its great range of affordable stitching accessories, they The Avid Seamstress is selling the above will be at the show continuing to grip fashionistas imagination through a line- patterns for £9.50. To buy yours just click up of inspirational workshops from Jenniffer Taylor. Jenni is one of the Great on the link below and select your digital British Sewing Bee’s most recollected contestants, and is the company’s brand pattern. Immediately after purchasing the ambassador. Inkberrow Design Centre will also be at the show promoting pattern, you’ll receive an email with the link their Diploma in Creative Industries Level 3 course, which gives students the to download your pattern and instruction opportunity to ‘run wild’ looking at business ideas and creating your own manual – it couldn’t be easier! capsule collections. Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts takes place at the NEC, Birmingham between The Avid Seamstress, 30thJune and 2nd July. Tickets are available at www.ichfevents.co.uk theavidseamstress.co.uk

Are you a fan of The Great British Sewing Bee? If you’ve been inspired by The Great British Sewing Bee, you’re going to love this exciting new dressmaking event. Upper Street Events and Love Productions have collaborated to bring you, The Great British Sewing Bee Live, which takes place from 21st-24th September, 2017, at ExCel London. The event is a must-visit for everyone with a passion for dressmaking and features The Great British Sewing Bee Live Super Theatre with and Esme Young. There’ll also be 250+ workshops and demonstrations by GBSB contestants and other top sewing tutors as well as dressmaking drop-in clinics, make-at-home fashion catwalk, and a garment and vintage galleries. Have your purse at the ready, as there will be lots of dressmaking and sewing suppliers to buy! Tickets for The Great British Sewing Bee Live are on sale now from thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com.

www.thepatternpages.com 9 BRIDAL ACCESSORIES

Simplicity has just brought out a new line of special occasion accessories in one pattern, which include lovely lace cover-ups, trimmed boleros and vintage inspired birdcage . Simplicity 8364, simplicitynewlook.com

Not a patch on sewing!

What’s not to love about the new embroidered Sew and be sewing themed patches beach ready from Colette Patterns. These follow-on from Can’t find a swimsuit you like? Check their successful enamel out the DIY & sew swimsuit options range. We love the from Bags of Love. Design your own Stitch. Press. Repeat. teal swimsuit by adding a favoruite photo embroidered patches – just or design. Available in eight sizes from attach to any garment or xs to xl, the gorgeous one-piece is accessory and be proud to flattering on any figure. Choose from be a stitcher! There is free matte or soft sheen Lycra. Bags of Love delivery, even to the UK. will send you the printed swimsuit Available from as a pattern kit for you to sew Colette Patterns at home. www.colettepatterns.com Bags of Love, bagsoflove.co.uk $6 From £28

10 www.thepatternpages.com The Sheath Dress The A-Line Dress

With a dedication to producing quality products with easy-to-follow instructions, we strive to bring together a community of women to empower and inspire each other through sewing.

Learn More

The Day Dress Black mesh long-line T-shirt, £22, Black floral hanky hem mesh dress, £49 from Miss Straw and Textile Selfridge, missselfridge.com Clutch Bag, £23 from La Redoute, laredoute.co.uk

Why not try adding embroidered trims to an accessory such as a handbag or stick-on motifs to .

EMBRACE Add texture to sheer fabrics with an embroidered panel, or accentuate your curves embroidery with a border design. How to tap into the embroidered trend An embroidery design can add interest and the wow factor to plain fabrics such as and linen, as well as Wherever you look, to simple styled garments such as a plain , T-shirt embroidery has made a real or everyday garments like a . comeback, and is adorning all sorts of garments on High Street fashion. Here’s some inspiration for sewers so why not give it a go!

Use embroidery to highlight areas of the garment you want to show off. Adding embroidery down the leg of a skinny or slim-fitting jean will highlight slim legs.

Embroidered , £42 from Next, next.co.uk

Embroidered blouse, £35 from Cotton Edits, cottonedits.com

12 www.thepatternpages.com The MC500E is the latest embroidery-only machine from Janome, which offers sewers professional- By machine style embroidery at home. The embroidery machine is capable of producing designs up to 200mm x You’ll need an embroidery 280mm, making it easy to embellish garments and machine or your accessories. Choose from one of the built-in designs may also feature a range of or download your own from the internet – this model WAYS TO embroidery stitches. has a host of powerful editing features providing CREATE extensive creative opportunities such as flip, rotate, resize, edit or combine designs to make your project YOUR OWN one-of-a-kind. The machine stops automatically after sewing each thread colour so you can walk away while its embroidering, then just thread up the next and see the design develop before your eyes. Janome.co.uk

Fake it with a motif! There are some lovely readymade motifs and patches. Give a garment in your wardrobe a new leash of life. Could something you made ages ago do By hand with a bit of an update? Motifs come in iron-on, sew-on and glue-on options. A hand-embroidered design can really make a garment truly personal to you. There We love this large floral cluster design are lots of websites with free from Simplicity, Design A130, £7 downloadable designs or if simplicitynewlook.com you’re arty, you can sketch out your own design.

We love the new free embroidery designs from DMC Creative which are downloaded from their website. We love the Summer Peony Flower & Good Luck Dragonfly shown on this denim jacket. This design aslo comes as a kit too, which means you get all the coloured threads you need to stitch the design. EMBROIDERY TIPS: It’s easier to add an embroidery before making Summer Peony Flower kit, £12.96 a garment up while the pattern piece is flat. www.dmc.com If new to embroidery, start with a small design that’s not too challenging. Always do a test embroidery first on a spare piece of your chosen fabric. Things you’ll need to create embroidery designs

1. STABILISER 3. CORRECT THREAD AND NEEDLE Use a stabiliser to back your fabric. This will help your Use embroidery thread that is designed for the job. embroidery to stand out, retain its shape, and give you a much Hand threads, which can be divided into several crisper professional finish. strands are handy and allow you to vary the weight of your stitches to add depth to a project. Select 2. HOOP a good quality thread that is washable and fade A hoop is an essential bit of kit and keeps your fabric taut while resistant. Use a ballpoint needle for best results. stitching. They come in a variety of sizes so choose one that The pointed end will pierce and stitch most fabrics. comfortably fits your design.

Illustration created by Lembrik - Freepik.com

www.thepatternpages.com 13 Take one classic white shirt Embroidery, see how it’s done by the professionals. The Janome team showcase what their machines can do!

Appliqué flower embroidery Shirt 1 by Ann White The designs that Ann chose came from two different Janome machines. The appliqué flower design came from the Janome Memory Craft 14000. By using Digitizer MBX V5 software the size has been adjusted. On the machine itself, you can use the edit screen to adjust designs 20 per cent larger or smaller without altering the stitch count, by using the software it adjusts the stitch count in the design giving endless options for using the same design from a tiny flower to a huge bloom! While the leaf design was taken from the new MC500E embroidery-only machine, the size has again been altered in the Digitizer MBX V5 Software. Templates for the embroidery designs were created in the MBX software to help with the accurate positioning of designs these were printed onto vellum. The pocket was removed from the shirt for the embroidery to allow this to fit into the hoop. Ann placed Tearaway stabiliser in the hoop, and attached the pocket piece to the stabiliser using the basting stitch in the embroidery trace and baste function. The template was then used to make sure that the design was paced in the correct position. The Janome team love to use the machines they sell. To highlight just what can be done with an embroidery machine, they’ve transformed a simple classic white shirt.

14 www.thepatternpages.com Shirt 2 Parisian Style by Ruth Cox balance the Parisian Girl design, and the touch of red in the shoes and lipstick The shirt provided a great blank canvas, helped bring the whole Ruth wanted a design that was bold but look together. with clean lines and not too heavy in This Janome MC15000 embroidery/ terms of stitches and colours. Because sewing machine was used to stitch the the shirt is a classic tailored style in a designs after editing them initially in crisp cotton fabric, she felt the overall Digitizer MBX software. Ruth also used look should be smart but also feminine. the Janome AcuSetter app as this is the The Parisian Girl design was initially perfect tool for embroidery placement on selected as it evokes images of fashion a ready-made item. and travel. Ruth looked for designs in the With AcuSetter, you can photograph the machine that would work with this and shirt using an iPad once it’s placed in the selected the Redwork range by Y.Ganaha embroidery hoop, then you can manipulate on the Janome MC15000. She loved the the embroidery to ensure that it’s correctly idea of swallows flying over the Eiffel aligned on each area of the shirt. Once Tower, and there was a good variety of you’re happy with the positioning of the shapes in the rest of the collection to design, it can be transferred wirelessly to create a pretty scalloped edge on the the MC15000. You can stitch out with the front band and embroidered cuffs. The confidence knowing that the finished result designs are quite open and delicate to will be successful!

stitched using a monofilament thread and a small by stitching down Shirt 3 each wing. The beading was attached by hand and the stitches down the centre Blue lace butterflies by of the bodies then held the butterfly flat Jayne Brogan against the shirt and added extra stability. The big plus when using pre-sewn motifs Jayne used the Janome MC15000 for all is that you can easily rearrange them the embroidery and machine stitching of before finally stitching them onto the the Blue Lace butterflies. shirt to give the desired look and you The inbuilt lace designs are beautiful can also remove them at a later date and and intricate although they’re not shown re-use them! very often especially when demonstrating the machines as they take quite some time to stitch out. Jayne felt that the design could be altered or added to at a future time if required as the motifs are removable. The lace designs give a good opportunity to further embellish the motifs when they’re applied. In this case, she used some beads and a small crystal on each motif to add a little extra sparkle. Jayne enlarged the butterfly design by the maximum 20 per cent in the machine itself and then duplicated the design to fit as many designs as she could into the hoop - five individual butterfly patterns could then be stitched out at one time! A double layer of Janome Ultra Solvy was used as a stabiliser to ensure the design was stable throughout the stitching process. The motifs were then soaked to remove all the Solvy and Visit www.janome.co.uk pressed flat. By leaving some residue of Twitter @JanomeUK Solvy in the motifs, they could be also be Instagram JanomeUK shaped into 3D designs if required. Pinterest Janome UK Ltd The motifs were placed on the shirt and

www.thepatternpages.com 15 Go ahead… get creative! MC15000 The incredible Memory Craft 15000v2 incorporates all the best features for sewing, embroidery, quilting and Add a decorative touch of beautiful craftwork and has the largest work embroidery to fit your lifestyle area of any equivalent model available. It’s the first machine of its kind to have Wi Fi, the first to work with an iPad and The world of Janome professional style the first to have its own Apps! embroidery brings amazing tools to your creative talents. Janome embroidery machines utilise intuitive technologies.

MC14000 This long arm combined sewing and embroidery machine has many of the features found on our top of the line Memory Craft 15000 for sewing, embroidery, quilting and craftwork.

MC9900 The Memory Craft 9900 is a combined sewing and embroidery machine. It offers lots of powerful features for sewing as well as professional-style embroidery at home. It also has 3 inter-changeable coloured panels to personalise your machine.

MC500E The Memory Craft 500E is a dedicated embroidery only machine and offers professional-style embroidery at home, capable of designs up to 200 x 280mm. It’s easy to embellish garments, furnishings and accessories.

For limitless embroidery possibilities optional embroidery design software is available which can convert artwork into stitches and stitches into works of art.

For further information: Telephone 0161 666 6011 or visit www.janome.co.uk The world’s leading sewing machine manufacturer

4670 - [Ad 210x297] Embroidery Range 2016 IH V3.indd 1 08/07/2016 16:15 Harrogate Tropical Punch , £85 from Yull Shoes www.yull.co.uk The tropical trend is taking over – add a touch to your wardobe with these beautiful leafy heel sandals.

Sweet Wrapper , £75 from Tatty Devine www.tattydevine.com We love this non-fattening sweet wrapper necklace made from brightly coloured mirror acrylic.

Handmade Stylish trend-led accessories that sewers will love

Coco , £70 from Iris London www.irislondon.com Lounge around in this beautiful handmade stretch satin full cup underwired bra in caramel and accents of lime.

Enamel pins, £7 from Alphabet Bags www.alphabetbags.com Cute and colourful high quality enamel pins to jazz up any outfit. Pick your birthstone or favourite gem!

Pink Flamingo , £18 from Lisa Angel www.lisaangel.co.uk Flamingoes are so cute and look so sweet on this personalised scarf

www.thepatternpages.com 17 Sew House

We catch up with SEVENPeggy Mead, the designer behind Sew House Seven

Tell us a little bit about you and the company? For years, I had dreamed about designing my own I live in Portland, Oregon and work out of my fixer-upper sewing patterns, and it wasn’t until I spotted a house with my husband Teera and 9-year-old son Wylan. I’ve Colette pattern at a local bookstore that a fire lit been sewing for most of my life. I started sewing at 8 years under me. I still feel a little new to the game but I old, and was soon an addict. I’ve always loved sewing know I’ve finally found my happy place! and making but moved away from it when I started working. Now I’m so happy to be back doing what I love. I started Sew House Seven a few years ago after working in the apparel industry for more years than I care to admit, and always dreamt of doing my own thing. My main focus with Sew House Seven is on simple designs with easy to follow instructions that encourage beginners. I try to incorporate unique elements in my designs so they remain appealing to sewers of any skill level.

What made you start patternmaking? The passion has been with me for a long time. As a teenager, I used to daydream about The Tea House designing while fliping and Bridegtown backless through pattern books. I was sewing about fifty percent of my clothes Tell us about your patterns so far, and but didn’t realise what made you chose them? that designing When I started, I wanted to make patterns that I could be a ‘real’ would wear, and started with just three designs. career so pursued The first pattern in the line was the Mississippi a Masters degree in Avenue dress. This easy dress looks great in apparel design. floral. Then there’s the Bridgetown I’ve worked for various & tunic, which is a very simple, elasticated companies, but the one that truly dress with short kimono-like sleeves but the drama defined me was working for Jantzen is in the back. The back crosses over and drapes swimwear, I learned so much there. to reveal a peak at the wearers back. The Alberta It’s not always satisfying designing for Street came next, and is a staple style someone else as there are too many for to any wardrobe. restrictions and different opinions to I try to keep my patterns current and classic. I consider. The process of fast fashion don’t want to have to scrap the pattern in a year or disheartens me, so I wanted to do so because it’s no longer in style. There’s so much things my own way. work that goes into each pattern and as a small independent, I want my patterns to be lasting. I’m not a fan of fast fashion. I love clothes that can be The Tea House dressy or casual and versatile. top and dress

18 www.thepatternpages.com MAKERS in the spotlight

Later, I added the Rose City halter dress, which is another classic – Avenue dress – it’s so easy to make and it was one of my bestsellers, it’s a halter with a V-, fitted bodice and two skirt options. And but more recently the Tea has become a much-loved more recently, I’ve added the Tea House top & dress and the Nehalem pattern. pant & skirt and last year I released The Toaster , as my collection was missing knits, tops and garments for cooler weather. Who is your biggest inspiration to your sewing? I generally design pieces that I would like for myself. My mother What do you feel makes you stand out from the helped me get started sewing and who really sparked my interest other independent pattern companies? as a child was my best friend’s mother. I wanted to make all the Hmmm! I’m still relatively undiscovered. What I’ve heard about my wonderful things they were making, and my mom made this happen. patterns is that the instructions are very thorough and clear. As I’ve I’m certainly inspired by many of the other independent pattern said I try to make original patterns that have a special design designers who’ve paved the path for me in this career. feature (even if it’s subtle and simple) and something that’s different and will get noticed! Many of my patterns are quick How would you best describe your personal and easy, which is another of my strong points. style and what impact has it had on your collection? What is your favourite pattern you’ve My personal style has definitely influenced my patterns. Even designed so far? though I often dress pretty casually, I’m drawn to very feminine When I get ready to release a pattern, I tend to be tired styles when I clean up to go out. Not pink and frilly things but of looking at it but after it’s launched, I fall in love romantic, flowing and beautiful. When I sew, I like to with it again. My favourite was the Mississippi make items that you can’t find anywhere else.

What do you feel is your best achievement so far? I still have so far to go. The smartest thing I’ve done is having my patterns printed and in shops as opposed to solely PDF patterns. The idea that my patterns are used for classes is such an honour for me, and I still get goose bumps when I walk into a shop and see them on display!

Where do you see yourself in five years? I think my answer has changed a bit – in the beginning, I wanted to working solo - not worrying about growing into a full-blown business. However I don’t have as much time as I’d like to design so I think hiring some help is on the cards in the near future. I’d also love to expand and get into fabric design. My husband and I have a few other big ideas but I can’t quite divulge them yet!

Are there any spoilers you can share? I’m very excited as I’m going to include sew-a-longs and tutorials on my blog. I’ve been promising this for a while now. I also have another knit dress and top that I’ve been working on and thinking about a or The Nehalem . Now that I’m devoting more time, I plan trouser and skirt on being more prolific – here’s hoping at least!

Contact Sew House Seven The Mississippi sewhouse7.com Avenue dress

www.thepatternpages.com 19 Print sew Make a custom halter-neck camisole with fabric that you can print at home

Do you fancy designing your own fabric to sew at home? Well now you can with THREADS Inkjet Printable Fabrics. We give it go

20 www.thepatternpages.com What you decide to make will depend THE TECHY BIT on what size printable fabric you choose THREADS fabrics are natural fabrics, cotton and silk. The fabric and the size of printer you have access has been coated with a secret formula, and allows it to take high-resolution prints without bleeding to produce a fabric to. Most sewers will have a A4 or A3 that retains a great drape and feel. Create your own pattern like printer so here are our tips for choosing we’ve done for this camisole or print photos of family or even download a copyright free image. a design and sewing pattern. The fabric The coating on the fabric binds with water-based printer inks, sheets are extremely easy-to-use, just both dye and pigment. You can also use water-based pens, stamps and paints to decorate. print, peel and sew!

Steps to print & prepare fabric Choosing the right sewing pattern

On your computer, prepare your design for printing – make sure you resize to the same size as the fabric – 1 we used A3 sheets of Silk Charmeuse.

Set the printer to matte or plain paper setting, and place a fabric sheet in the printer and click print. After 2 printing allow the ink to dry for at least five minutes.

Remove the paper backing by gently lifting a corner and peeling back. It will peel off and won’t leave any 3 residue on the fabric. Pick a sewing pattern with small and simple pattern pieces. We chose to make a camisole, which we adapted to fit the fabric sheets by adding extra seams to the front and back pieces.

TIPS FOR SEWING WITH THE FABRIC Charmeuse is prone to pulls so make sure your are super sharp Use a new sharp point needle known as Sharps or Microtex Use silk pins to your pattern to the fabric Use a fine polyester thread We used tissue paper underneath the fabric to avoid any slippage when sewing Try a shorter-length stitch, and control your sewing TIP: We found peeling it back slowly close to the backing speed to a slow and steady pace. paper is best. This avoids stretchy the fabric unnecessarily.

Pre-washing your fabric is a must. The fabric does Good to know shrink, and also pre-washing restore’s the fabric to its There are seven fabrics available – 4 soft natural feel. cotton lawn, cotton poplin, cotton twill, silk chiffon, silk charmeuse and Leave to dry flat naturally, and press gently with a two weights of silk crepe pressing cloth. de chine. 5 THREADS come in common international and US paper sizes, Choosing a pattern to print A4 and A3 sheets THREADS and also rolls Inkjet Printable We chose to create a retro-style geometric pattern that has a 2.7m and 9.1m Fabrics regular repeat so matching pieces would be much easier. If you long, with widths www.printable want you can use photos, but make sure it fits the fabric size of 22cm fabrics.com you’ve selected. and 33cm.

www.thepatternpages.com 21 Print your own wardrobe with

enquiries: [email protected] TOPHow to flatter your figure when you sew to toe

KNOW YOUR NECKLINE COLOUR CODING 1 When choosing a neckline take into 6 Wear colours on the top or bottom account your bust size, face shape, neck depending on which area you want to play length and body shape. Do you want to up or down. Wear light and bright colours to emphasize or play any of these areas down? highlight, and dark colours on the areas that you want to disguise UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL 2 Make sure your bra is the correct size and doing the job it’s supposed to do! For FABRIC MATTERS larger busts, choose a bra with thicker straps 7 Select a fabric weight and pattern and not too much padding. For smaller busts, that your frame as well as the wear a bra that has extra padding in the lower sewing pattern. part of the cup. IMPORTANT ADJUST AND IMPROVE MEASUREMENTS: 8 Accept that you’ll need to make BAND SIZE: Measure under the arm and adjustments to a pattern to make it fit you around the front just above the bust where best. Very few of us will match a pattern the straps meet the bra cup. Round this company’s standard measurements for measurement to the nearest even inch. each of the size measurements.

BUST SIZE: Without pulling the tightly, measure the fullest part of HEALTHY your bust. Round this up to the nearest inch. 9 Choose a hemline that makes the most of your legs. The most flattering is one that sits just above the knee.

ONE SIZE DOESN’T FIT ALL ADD HEIGHT 3 Make sure you select the right size. 10 Always wear heels – a little height Measure yourself and go by the sizing on the will make you seem taller and also slimmer. pattern (and not the size you pick for high Make sure you wear these shoes when you’re street clothes). Pick a pattern range that offers taking up the hemline to get the correct fitting options. length for you.

YOU’VE GOT STYLE Empire-line garments are brilliant at

4 Simplicity 8292 , www.simplicitynewlook.com disguising areas you want to hide. Wrap tops are great at giving the illusion of a tiny waist. Showing a little cleavage with a sweetheart neckline or a little leg with a slit is also a good way of drawing the eye away from troublesome areas, and banish those bingo wings with a pretty bell sleeve.

ALL IN THE DETAIL 5The rule is that small petite frames can add flounces, beading and bows while fuller-figured women should keep things simpler and add pintucks, darts or accessorise with .

www.thepatternpages.com 23

fabrics HotMake a fuss about florals Simplicity 3833, simplicitynewlook.com Inject some much-needed colour into your wardrobe with stylish mix and match floral fabrics. Floral fabrics have become a staple for all year round but in the summer, they come into their own. There’s no holds barred this season – mixing and matching florals is no longer a fashion must-not, and the bolder and bigger the better!

FLORAL INSPIRATION Harp back to the ’60s and ’70s 1 wear floral from top to toe. Be brave and use different floral 5 STYLES TO 2 prints together but make sure FLORAL they’re from the same colour Dirndl skirt palette. Cold shoulder top Add contrasting plain and Maxi dress 3 decorative facings to accentuate Kimono the garment. Mix and match florals with dots 4 and stripes RULE OF THUMB from a fabric designer – they’ve done all WORKING WITH Use small print for smaller garments the hard work and all the designs within FLORAL FABRICS Use large print for larger garments the collection will work together. Some prints require a lap layout SIZING UP YOUR PRINT especially if it has a one-way pattern LET THERE BE LIGHT Remember that floral fabrics with Different sources of light make fabrics large and one-way designs will require If you’re a beginner to dressmaking, seem poles apart so be sure the match more fabric. They’ll also need care in always choose a small print to sew with is right. If you’re making a make placement, and are best used on simple first, as any sewing imperfections are sure the fabrics work well in natural patterns with very few pieces. less likely to show, and from a distance sunlight. smaller prints can look like a plain fabric. PATTERN LAYOUT FABRIC SIMILARITIES If you’re using a fabric with a large Make sure all the fabrics have a common motif, drape the fabric over your body colour running through. The fabric to try different placements to check should also be of the same weight and the best place for the larger motifs. You drape to hold it all together. Keep it don’t want a huge bloom somewhere simple by choosing a fabric collection inappropriate!

Tip: Tip: Layout the fabric right side up, and Invest in a colour place the pattern pieces out to make wheel so you know sure the motifs/patterns are spaced which colours evenly between the pattern pieces. Kwik Sew 4208, complement and Do this for any front openings or front sewdirect.com contrast each other. seams first.

www.thepatternpages.com 25 Vogue 9253, Our favourite funky floral fabrics sewdirect.com

BLACK & WHITE POLKA DOT WITH RED ROSES, Stretch Cotton Sateen Stone Fabric www.stone fabrics.co.uk

DAISY CHAIN, Michael Miller’s Our Yard by Sarah Campbell EQS www.eqsuk.com

BLOSSOM ABSTRACT POPLIN, FLORAL, STRETCH MINT COTTON SATEEN Remnant Kings Stone Fabric www.remnant www.stone kings.co.uk fabrics.co.uk

BELL FLOWER, HOW DOES YOUR BLOOM MONTAGE GARDEN GROW LIGHT, HERE collection from COMES THE FUN Michael Miller EQS Art Gallery Fabrics www.eqsuk.com www.hantex.co.uk

EDENHAM WHITE, Liberty of London Tana Lawn Remnant Kings www.remnant kings.co.uk 26 www.thepatternpages.com PRESENTING... Koi Garden Collection by Laura Gunn for Michael Miller Fabrics

One of my favourite places to visit is the St. Louis Botanical Garden. Gian Lily pads float in a pond surrounded by Chihuly sculptures. “ A beautifully manicured path surrounds another pond swimming with Koi fish. I love watching the water churn as the fish swim to the surface. This beautiful place has sewn itself into my memory, and I’ve tried to capture some of that beauty in this fabric range, Koi Garden, is how Laura Gunn describes the inspiration behind her latest collection. “ To see more of the Koi Garden collection click here

FABRIC DESCRIPTION: 100% cotton, 45in width

Click here to view more Michael Miller’s collection

To find a stockist near you visit the EQS website eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033.

Softly softly We put hardworking hand creams to the test

PROPER Hands are a precious tool for any PROTOCOL sewer, and a well-moisturised pair In conjunction with Debbi is a must for those handling delicate Moore, The proto-col hand cream has been made specifically fabrics like sheers and silks and for crafters. This formula has been threads. There’s nothing worse than made so that it soaks into the skin having dry, sore hands when you’re quickly so users can continue on hard at work. crafting with silky smooth hands. This hand cream combines collagen with shea butter and royal jelly to nourish and soothe dull, dry hands. It stimulates circulation and keeps skin and nails in perfect condition BEHIND THE SEAMS We think: “This less scented hand SEAMS hand cream cream absorbs quickly and leaves your is an all-in-one beauty hands feeling soft for hours. It’s a great cream for hands and cream and leaves hand feeling well nails, and is a favourite nourished but we’d suggest using it at among fashion designers, night as leaves a slight greasy residue.” seamstresses, make-up artists and crafters. We like: “This cream leave hands feeling This handcream works fast soft for hours as well as hydrating your nails! to help mend, moisturise, soften, and protect hands and Debbie Moore Designs nails, and leaves no greasy www.debbimoore.co.uk residue. It contains a natural £8.99 for 40ml blend of anti-bacterial Fragonia oil, moisturising Sthinkhea butter; softening Macadamia nut NOURISH WITH NIVEA oil, Garden cress to help fade age The Nivea repair care handcream is a spots, Keratin to strengthen nails and long lasting relief from dry hands. The Glycerin to help heal, enriched with formula contains Pro Vitamin B5, Vitamin E and Pro-Vitamin B5 which relieves the feeling of dryness and tightness for up to 24 hours. We think: “We found SEAMS rich and creamy. It smells gorgeous and soaks in and dries superfast, We think: “Another beautifully leaving absolutely no greasy residue behind!” scented handcream gives the ones made for dressmakers a run for their We like: “SEAMS is made in UK, and is 94 per money. The cream has a serum feel to it cent natural and paraben-free.” and leaves hands feeling silky smooth, soaking into the skin almost instantly, SEAMS Beauty leaving no residue behind.” www.seamsbeauty.co.uk £9.50 for 50ml We like: “This handcream leaves hands with a matte, soft finish.”

Nivea handcream repair care £3.89 for 75ml Available from reputable chemist

www.thepatternpages.com 29 Kim Collins, designer and owner Ann Normandy Design shares her tips on how to create a beautifully Couture constructed investment garment from your sewing tips…. sewing room: Elevate your sewing skills to the next level

All fabrics used in the garments shown here are made from Select the best quality fabric reclaimed antique hand-woven French linen. The Maxi Dress that pairs well with the design fabric was a late 18th century and the construction techniques French duvet. All fabrics are sturdy enough to be machine for the garment. laundered.

CONSIDER YOUR SKILL LEVEL, ANALYSE THE PATTERN DETAILS AND THE TECHNIQUES NEEDED TO CREATE THE GARMENT. IF YOU’RE A BEGINNER SEWIST, PICK ONE NEW TECHNIQUE TO LEARN WITH EACH GARMENT. PERFECT YOUR SKILLS BY CREATING A MUSLIN/ TOILE FIRST.

Control your single needle FABRIC PREP stitching. Pre-wash and dry as per manufacturer’s Take it slow, recommendations and especially when press. Eliminating the approaching fabric sizing brings the fabric to its original corners, and drape and handling pivot points. qualities. Each stitch matters.

PATTERN PREP Cut just inside the edge of the pattern line. Once the pattern is traced and marked, carefully cut on inside edge of the tracing line.

30 www.thepatternpages.com A bit about… Kim Collins, designer and owner Ann Normandy Design, ann-normandy.com. Consider using a lightweight, fusible interfacing to help stabilise loosely woven fabric, as well as reinforce shape and create body.

Kim lives just outside of Detroit, MI, in the US with her Applying a husband, 13-year-old son and strip of fabric their St. Bernard, Bode. She to cover a raw also enjoys travelling, cooking, singing, playing the violin and edge seam gives snowshoeing. a clean finish. A It doesn’t get any better than beautifully bound to bring together constant seam starts lifetime passions to create a with precise women’s apparel sewing pattern and evenly cut collection. Kim Collins’ journey in seam allowances. clothing design started early in life while being taught how to sew When folding the by her grandmother. From there, binding over the theatrical design was , the natural next step continuing keep the fabric the creative thought process of taut over the fold. ‘making do’ with limited budgets and resources. Period pieces between 18th and 20th century are her forte and passion, using studied design and observing time-honored techniques as her ELEVATE THE QUALITY AND FINISH OF YOUR GARMENT BY guide. Inspired from sewists ENCASING YOUR SEAMS INTO A FLAT, FINISHED SEAM. THE and the linen of those SEAMS AREN’T ONLY A BEAUTIFUL COUTURE TECHNIQUE, BUT periods, she created a sewing THEY GIVE THE GARMENT ADDITIONAL WEIGHT AND STABILITY pattern collection using careful TO HOLD ITS SHAPE. consideration to construction details that surpass most high- end ready to wear garments on the market. PRESSING MATTERS! The iron is as important as your sewing machine. Proper focus, heat, pressure and moisture and time taken to allow your pressed seam to cool are essential to achieve a crisp seam finish. Use a Ham for pressing curves and shaping curved seams and a wood Clapper puts pressure on a freshly pressed

seam to help set the press. Carefully manipulate Sneak peak of the Trouser and pattern that the fabric/seam with your fingers as you press. will be released early Blocking can add or eliminate shape. Press the autumn this year showing the detail of flat felled fabric with steam until it’s damp, shape as desired, seams and a welt pocket. and let dry completely.

www.thepatternpages.com 31

Digital Sewing Patterns for the Modern Woman

Exceptional design and fit

Professionally crafted with classic construction techniques.

Comprehensive instructions and photos

www.ann-normandy.com

Small talk De-clutter your handbag by downsizing and make one that carries just the everyday essentials PDF PATTERN

HARTSWOOD TOTE HANDBAG from Fable and Guild www.fableandguild.com £6.25 Small tote oozing couture style when made in wool felt

TRAVERSE BAG from Noodlehead PAPER noodle-head.com $10 PATTERN Crossbody bag compact enough to take on all your travels.

PDF PATTERN

ARM CANDY BAG from Dog Under My Desk www.dogundermydesk.com $8 A flirty little bag that’s perfect for dinner out with three strap options

POP OVER BAG PURSE CLUTCH KIT PAPER from U-handbag PATTERN www.u-handbag.com £22.50 SIMPLICITY 8310 Versatile purse frame bag from simplicitynewlook.com £6.95 which can be worn in three Stylish quilted bags with dual shoulder straps, ways and transforms from a a top-zip closure, and exterior slip pockets. bag into clutch.

www.thepatternpages.com 33 Ann Normandy cold shoulder tunic & crop tunic From one of our favourite designers! This boxy tunic combines two trends in one. Make in light to medium weight linen, this is a hot fabric that we’re seeing everywhere at the moment. ann-normandy.com

McCall’s 7468 Feel boho in this cold shoulder top Sew the look and dress. We think this is the perfect pattern to make for festival season. cold shoulder sewdirect.com We round up our favourite cold shoulder patterns right on-trend for this summer’s sewing

Vogue 9242 Cold shoulder is taking Want something comfy and casual this is a great style for you. This over the high street at the loose-fitting, gathered at the moment, but it all looks neck ruffled top is ideal for summer. the same! Why not make sewdirect.com something that’s personal to you, grab your favourite fabric and one of these great patterns and make something special to you!

34 www.thepatternpages.com 8341 Mimi G for Simplicity Turn heads with this chic ruffled cold shoulder tunic dress. Perfect for taking you from day to night. We say make this in a bold floral fabric like the Mimi G design to ensure you get that summer vibe. simplicitynewlook.com

FREE PATTERN

Sew Different cold shoulder top Laura from Sew Different has designed this easy single size (12) colder shoulder top and the design looks so different depending on the fabric you use. Sew Different

www.thepatternpages.com 35

The latest sewing books that you’re going to want to have on your sewing room bookshelf on books

The Maker’s Atelier: Paper Hearts & Summer Kisses Sew Caroline Weekend Style The Essential Collection By Carole Matthews by Caroline Hulse Sewing with Style 978-0-7515-6026-8 (978-1440246494) by Frances Tobin The Sunday Times bestselling author Popular sewing 978-1849499040 has returned with a heart-warming blogger, Caroline A career in fashion, a love of fabrics, and poignant novel of romance, family Hulse’s new book a lifetime making clothes, a keen and second chances. Paper Hearts and is perfect for sense of style that works for women Summer Kisses is the story about Christie those learning to of all ages and shapes make Frances Chapman, a single working mother sew, and includes Tobin patterns for The Maker’s Atelier who spends her days commuting to her must-have-tools so successful. Published by Quadrille secretarial job in London and looking and materials, Publishing, Frances has designed eight after her teenage son, Finn. Although basic stitches essential patterns, with options to create it’s been tough, Christie has always and step-by-step a collection of 31 stylish pieces. The found comfort in her love of crafting finishing techniques. The book is full collection is mix-and-match, offering and her spare time is spent in working of pretty pastels, modern photography garments for all kinds of occasions on beautiful creations from intricately and wonderful easy-to-follow projects, where key fashion trends have been designed birthday cards to personalised making it a perfect title for your summer improved to create versatile simple gifts. Christie’s flair for the handmade sewing and crammed full of wardrobe staple shapes, which translate well into knows no bounds and it’s not long must-haves. A couple of our favourite dressmaking patterns to make easy to before opportunity comes knocking. are the afternoon skirt, Saturday sew garments. Patterns come in sizes This book is a great read and if you love morning shorts, date night skirt, and 8-20, with guides on measuring and crafting, it’s the ideal book to slip in your darling shift dress. fitting, and advice on fabrics. suitcase for summer reading.

Where to buy Where to buy Where to buy Published by Fons & Porter, Get a signed copy from The distributed by F&W Media in the Makers Atelier for £30 Published by Little Brown Books, UK, priced at £18.99 and available https://themakersatelier.com/ available for £3.85 (normally £7.99) on Amazon. book/book from Amazon.

www.thepatternpages.com 37 DesignerStitch We chat with Ann Grose, the pattern maker Designer Stitch behind the Aussie brand, patterns are aimed a Designer Stitch women who want style

Tell us a little bit about you and the company? and easy-to-construct I’m so pleased to be one of the first Indie pattern designers to be featured in the new Pattern Pages magazine. When Emily asked me garments if I wanted to be a part of this exciting endeavour it took me all of two seconds to say, of course! I originally studied a Bachelors degree in textile design, fabric design, printing and meterage. Unfortunately design jobs are very rare, and Australia has lost much of its manufacturing to overseas outsourcing so I decided to study and production to expand my skills. I’ve worked as a freelance designer for fashion houses and manufacturers developing new ranges. I’ve also lectured in fashion related studies, design, pattern making and garment construction and taught to students in further education. I call this my apprenticeship because it led me to open my own fashion school, Designer Stitch School of Fashion and Design.

What made you start dress and pattern making? I’d make patterns for my students to sew, and they kept saying to me, you should sell your patterns, and so Designer Stitch PDF patterns were born. I’ve been sewing since I was six years old, and both my mother and grandmother worked in the rag trade as couture dressmakers, so I grew up around sewing machines, fabrics, trims and gorgeous handmade clothing. There wasn’t a day that my mother was not at her sewing machine. The women in my family have always made everything they wear. When we went out shopping my mother would always say, “We can make that ourselves!”.

Tell us about the patterns in your collection so far? The ethos of Designer Stitch is quite simple; to design sewing patterns that are stylish, easy-to-wear and on-trend. My patterns are also very simple to construct. My patterns are true to size – that is, they don’t have a lot of so I offer very extensive sizing charts in the pattern instructions to allow the to make the best choice when deciding size. There’s a wide range of easy-to-wear patterns and includes trousers, tops, dresses, playsuits and more!

38 www.thepatternpages.com MAKERS in the spotlight

What is your favourite pattern you’ve designed so far? My favourite is the Kerry . The pattern has quite a few pattern pieces but the finish of the garment is well worth it! The Pippa Wrap Dress is such a pretty dress and looks good on all sizes and shapes and the Willow Kimono is another easy garment but relies heavily on good fabric choices and trims. I could go on and on, I love each and every pattern I design!

Who is your biggest inspiration to your sewing? Stitch My mother was my mentor, and she was very supportive but sadly, she passed away in 2008 but I know she’s with me watching what I’m doing. She’d probably say to me right at this minute, ‘slow down a bit’ but making Designer Stitch the best it can be is the reason I get up in the morning!

How would you best describe your personal style and has it impacted your pattern collections? I try not to sway too much towards my own style and tastes, and keep a close eye on what’s trending to see if it can translate into a design that’s easy to sew. I also consider carefully whether the garment will translate to the smallest and largest sizes.

What do you feel is your best achievement so far? I’m so thrilled to see my patterns being blogged about by like- minded sewists, and I pay homage to my fabulous group of pattern testers. It’s so thrilling to see the photos they post of their garments, and they make my patterns looking absolutely sensational!

What do you feel makes you stand out from the other independent sewing patterns? My sewing patterns are aimed a women who want style and easy-to-construct garments. When designing patterns, I generally think about how my students can wear it, whether it would suit the smallest as well as the curviest among them. My patterns are graded from a size 6 to 26 UK/ AU. Style and construction are important to me, and if I can’t translate the construction steps into fairly easy visual sewing steps then I don’t make the garment.

Contact Designer Stitch designerstitch.com

www.thepatternpages.com 39 City clutch

Embroidered and motif-covered bags are definitely a hot trend this summer. We’ve made this quirky city clutch, covered in embroidered patches, and the great thing about it is, you can make it in 60 minutes! It’s perfect to wear as a cute clutch for cocktails in town with the girls, or attach a strap to show it off on a day’s shopping.

40 www.thepatternpages.com 60 minute make

Materials Place one of the fabric Glue the outer clamshell pieces into the glued shell; and place one of your ensure that it’s evenly placed outer fabrics pieces on top and covers the whole inside making sure your motifs are as well as the sides. Smooth central, and smooth into out so there are no bubbles, place. Fold corners neatly as 4 lumps or bumps. 6 before and trim.

1 x clamshell and frame clutch bag Lightweight fabric of your choice (approx 1/2m will do) Sew-on motifs – as many you want, go mad! Strong fabric glue Scissors Old paint brush

Make sure edges are Steps to make Using scissors cut small slits smooth and glue down and into all four corners of the secure in place until dry. We Cut out your fabric – place clam so that they can be used KLIPit’s quilt binding the clamshell on top of the folded and glued neatly down clips as. fabric to get an approximate and trim away any excess 7 size. Cut about 3cm away fabric around the top edge. from the clam so there’s 5 Repeat the above process 1 enough fabric to cover the for the other side of the sides. You’ll need 2 for the clam. Leave to dry overnight outer shell and 2 for the and then place clamshells lining. You may want to into frame. choose a contrasting fabric 8 for the lining. Where can I buy

Streamline TIP: Make sure your fabric is Grande lightweight – if the fabric is too thick the Minaudiere shell will not fit back into the bag frame. Clutch Frame £11.50 from u-handbag.com.

Arrange your motifs on the Aleene’s Fabric Fusion outer shell fabric pieces £9.99 from amazon.co.uk until you’re happy with the design. Pin in place, and Sew on motifs using a , sew are available 2 the motifs to the fabric. from major Press gently. . We love these iron-on patches from Jennie Maizels Take one of the clamshells £3.49 each from jenniemaizels.com and put a generous amount of glue on the inside of the KLIPits are perfect for shell and spread evenly with keeping things in place the paintbrush. £7.15 for a pack of 10 3 For your nearest stockist visit hantex.co.uk

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10 minutes with... Ana Valls from CocoWawa Crafts

Tell us a bit about your background, and We love your new range of sewing patterns. why you decided to come to the UK and How did they come about? Thanks! Well, start your own online fabric store? So I’m for me, after studying pattern cutting at originally from Spain, and have been living in the London College of Fashion and using London for the past six years. At first, I came indie patterns to make my own handmade to the UK and was working as a journalist but I wardrobe – it felt a natural step. attended my first-ever sewing class in London, and just totally fell in love with all things Tell us about your sewing patterns sewing. I started CocoWawa in 2014, and since available so far? The Marshmallow is a lovely, then my business has grown from selling just super comfy trapeze dress with a fun ruffle a few bolts of fabric, to offering and my and lots of options including different sleeves latest adventure is a small and a sweet Peter Pan collar or bow. It’s a range of sewing patterns, great pattern for customising and mixing I also vlog on our new fabrics on the cuffs, collar and ruffle. YouTube Channel too. The newest pattern is the Lily blouse and dress – it’s a lovely What made you decide to make for spring and summer, and stock organic fabrics? It has a cocoon shape with raglan was for both business and sleeves, a long seam environmental reasons. running down the I wanted to provide back and its main something different to what feature is a other shops were offering, one-of-a-kind and at the same time sailor collar. Of contribute to preserving course, both are the environment, fighting available in English against the fast fashion and Spanish! culture, and make a stand for workers’ rights. Who do you admire the most in the How would you describe As a fashion writer, I was sewing pattern your style? When I was in industry and why? my early 20s and working influenced by what was It would be a long, in Spain as a fashion writer, I trending but now I long list from the wanted to look sophisticated, sewing community, and was influenced by what wear what I really love. but if I had to say…. was trending. Now in my 30s, I Tilly from Tilly and want to wear what I really love, and not follow The Buttons for how any kind of rules. successful her business is; My style is colourful, comfy and playful. I The Fold Line ladies for love combining fabrics with funny patterns, creating such an amazing stripes, dots, and tend to choose designs platform where so sewists that make me feel comfortable with my body can come together and talk shape. I have a very straight figure, and in the Contact all things sewing, and Lisa CocoWawa Crafts past, I’ve struggled with this as I felt I didn’t fit from Sew Over It, for shops cocowawacrafts.com with the sexy prototype of women, but now I and running classes and just embrace the way I am! releasing great patterns!

www.thepatternpages.com 43 MADE TO MEASURE

Our essential guide to HEIGHT getting the best fit! Stand with your back, head and A heels against a wall without your shoes. Ask a friend to place the ruler across the top of your head and mark. Measure Many new sewers make the natural assumption from the floor to the mark for height. Height that the size of clothes that they’d choose on the is important and you’ll need to confirm high street is the same size they use to make a your height and back-waist length measurement to match the charts on pattern. This is one of the main reasons the back of the pattern envelope why many sewers end up with garments that don’t fit as well as they had hoped. Very few of us will match a pattern CHEST Measure under company’s standard sizes across your armpits and all measurement so how do you B across the top of chest. decide what pattern size to go for? BUST Measure Accurate body C across the measurements fullest part of your bust Creating a set of your accurate measurements and the widest part of is the first step to making sure your garment fits the back. well. Take your measurements wearing your usual underwear. Don’t be tempted to pull the measuring tape as tightly as you can – you’ll do yourself WAIST no favours when your garment is too tight and Measure your natural uncomfortable. Ask a friend for a coffee and ask them D waistline. To find where to help you – they’ll be able to get more accurate your natural waistline is – tie a piece measurements. of string around your waist and let it The set of body measurements for bust, waist and hip settle as you bend left and right. are key to choosing a pattern size. If you start with the right measurements, fitting will be more straightforward. Remember that very few of us will match exactly a HIPS pattern company’s standard measurements. Take the measurement around The set of body measurements for bust, waist and hip E the fullest part, this is usually are key to choosing a pattern size. If you start with the 18cm-23cm below the waistline right measurements, fitting will be more straightforward. Remember that very few of us will match exactly a pattern company’s standard measurements.

tip: tip: Obvious but always use Always round up to a flexible soft fabric tape the measurement to measure to measure the nearest whole around your curves! centimetre.

44 www.thepatternpages.com Other measurements you might need:

SHOULDER LENGTH Measure from the base of the neck to shoulder point. Other things you should know: To find base of the neck – place tape measure around your neck under the thyroid. GARMENT EASE For a garment to fit To find the shoulder point – comfortably, the pattern raise the arm to shoulder level and might say it has ease. This this is where the dip forms at the is so you can move freely. shoulder bone.

WEARING EASE WAIST HEIGHT This is the minimum FROM FLOOR amount of ease for The easiest way to do this is by placing a garment to be a book between your waist and the wall, comfortable. Within the and marking this position on the wall. sewing industry wearing The measure distance from waist mark ease is usually 6.4cm at the to the floor. bust, 2.5cm at the waist and 7.6cm at the hip area. FRONT WAIST LENGTH Measure vertically down from the DESIGN EASE prominent shoulder bone over bust point This is an amount that to the waist. the designer has added or subtracted to create BACK WAIST LENGTH a specific silhouette. To Measure from the top of your spine to determine ease, measure natural waistline. the pattern from seam to seam (excluding ARM LENGTH TIPS FOR CHOOSING seam allowances) and Measure from the shoulder bone A GARMENT: compare it with your to elbow and then with elbow bent For , shorts and trousers – use body measurements to measure to the wrist. your hip measurement to choose a the total circumference pattern size measurement of the For dresses, tops and – use pattern. the bust measurement to choose a The difference is the pattern size amount of ease the pattern has.

Tips for ongoing sewing success

UPDATE YOUR MEASUREMENTS Always keep a record of all your measurements but redo them every time you start to make a garment, even if it’s a pattern that you’ve made before unfortunately our size doesn’t! INVEST IN A GOOD A dress form is like having a second pair of hands and makes sewing your own garments much easier! One with adjustments is must-have for serious dressmakers – some come with a dial that you can expand and adjust key areas like waist, hips and bust line. Make sure you go to a reputable retailer where a good quality dress form will set you back between £100 and £300.

www.thepatternpages.com 45 Everything’s coming up rosy

The rose gold trend started with jewellery as an alterative to gold and silver, but this refreshing hue has taken over, and we’re now seeing it in our sewing!

All that glistens

Riley Blake’s Yes Please fabric collection is a girl’s basic collection, featuring seven distinct designs, each available in a choice of three elegant colourways including black/ white, white/rose gold and black/rose gold. As the name may suggest the Riley Blake’s Gold & Rose Gold basics are a selection of basic blender prints available in the on-trend colours gold and rose gold and also includes everything from spots and stripes to wording and arrows.

To find your nearest stockist for either of these fabric collections, visit the EQS. www.eqsuk.com/stockists A cut above the rest We love the rose gold premium dressmaking shears from Hemline. The stylish 21cm long scissors are double-plated with a nickel and chrome for life long protection and feature a larger grip that comfortably fits three fingers for comfort and scissor control while cutting out. Want the matching pair, then treat yourself to the embroidery scissors too – they measure in at 7cm long.

Available from The Home Makery

Dressmaking shears www.thehomemakery.co.uk £17.99

Embroidery scissors www.thehomemakery.co.uk £6.50

46 www.thepatternpages.com Tropical Sensation Designed by Girly Trend and made by Manuel WW, this 100 per cent combed cotton is a lightweight fabric that’s easy to work with. It features another trending design – the humble pineapple – with a marbled background effect. It’s a great fabric to make a fun beach cover up or to lounge around in the sun.

Available from Zazzle £17.95 per yard www.zazzle.co.uk

Glamour puss Berisfords glitz and glamour metallic lame ribbon is perfect to add a bit of glitz and sparkle to your sewing. The lame ribbon is Bernina 765 Se 7mm wide and retails for 75p a The special edition Bernina 765 SE is certainly a looker, metre. For your local stockist email and features the Bernina hook with 9mm stitch width [email protected] for high precision stitches and an extended free arm for bigger designs.

However here in the UK, we can only admire it from afar as sadly it’s only available in the US for a limited time!

www.thepatternpages.com 47 We are an online resource for those who love fashion and making their own clothes.

Find all the latest gossip about new sewing patterns, the latest trends and more right here!

thepatternpages.com