02_578243 ftoc.qxd 4/21/05 2:29 PM Page iii

Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in Denmark 1

1 The Best of Denmark 3 1 The Best Danish Experiences . . . .3 6 The Best Active Vacations ...... 7 2 The Best Hotels ...... 4 7 The Best Castles & Palaces . . . . .8 3 The Best Restaurants ...... 5 8 The Best Offbeat Experiences . . .9 4 The Best Buys ...... 5 5 The Most Scenic Towns & Villages ...... 6

2 Planning Your Trip to Denmark 10 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 10 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information ...... 12 Travel Resource ...... 29 3 Entry Requirements & 11 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .29 Customs ...... 12 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .32 4 Money ...... 14 12 Getting There ...... 33 The ...... 14 13 Packages & Specialty What Things Cost in Vacations ...... 39 Copenhagen ...... 16 Heritage—The Search for 5 When to Go ...... 17 Roots ...... 41 Denmark Calendar of Events . . .17 14 Getting Around Denmark . . . . .42 6 The Active Vacation Planner . . .19 15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .44 7 Travel Insurance ...... 20 16 Suggested Itineraries ...... 46 8 Health & Safety ...... 21 17 Recommended Books ...... 47 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . .23 Fast Facts: Denmark ...... 47 10 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .27

3 COPYRIGHTEDSettling into Copenhagen MATERIAL 51 1 Orientation ...... 51 Family-Friendly Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 53 Accommodations ...... 68 2 Getting Around ...... 54 4 Where to Dine ...... 71 Fast Facts: Copenhagen ...... 56 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .78 3 Where to Stay ...... 58 Quick Bites in Copenhagen . . . .82 02_578243 ftoc.qxd 4/21/05 2:29 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

4 Exploring Copenhagen 92 Suggested Itineraries ...... 92 Walking Tour 2: Kongens 1 Seeing the Sights ...... 93 Nytorv to Langelinie ...... 112 Frommer’s Favorite Copenhagen 2 Shopping ...... 117 Experiences ...... 97 3 Copenhagen After Dark . . . . .121 Danish Design ...... 98 Nighttime Experiences for Special & Free Events ...... 108 Free (Well, Almost) ...... 124 Walking Tour 1: The Old 4 Side Trips from Copenhagen . . .127 City ...... 109

5 North 133 1 Hillerød ...... 133 4 Hornbæk ...... 147 2 ...... 139 5 ...... 150 3 Helsingør (Elsinore): In Search 6 Tisvildeleje ...... 154 of Hamlet ...... 142 7 ...... 156

6 South Zealand & Møn 166 1 Køge ...... 166 3 Slagelse ...... 178 Zealand’s Link to the 4 Næstved ...... 183 Continent ...... 173 5 Vordingborg ...... 187 2 Ringsted ...... 175 6 Møn ...... 191

7 Bornholm 200 1 Rønne ...... 202 4 Gudhjem ...... 214 2 Nexø ...... 209 5 Christiansø ...... 217 3 Svaneke ...... 212 6 Allinge & Sandvig ...... 218

8 Funen 220 1 Nyborg: Gateway to Funen . . .220 4 Faaborg ...... 243 2 Odense: Birthplace of Hans 5 Ærø ...... 247 Christian Andersen ...... 224 6 Langeland & Rudkøbing . . . . .255 3 Svendborg ...... 235 Visiting Working Artists . . . . .259

9 South Jutland 261 1 Kolding ...... 261 5 Ribe ...... 279 2 Haderslev ...... 267 6 Esbjerg ...... 287 3 Tønder ...... 270 7 Fanø ...... 293 4 Rømø ...... 275 02_578243 ftoc.qxd 4/21/05 2:29 PM Page v

CONTENTS v

10 Central Jutland 299 1 Vejle ...... 299 5 Ry ...... 312 Discovering a Viking Past . . . .304 6 Silkeborg ...... 316 2 Jelling ...... 304 7 Århus ...... 321 3 Billund & Legoland ...... 306 8 Ebeltoft ...... 335 4 Ringkøbing ...... 308 9 Randers ...... 338 Windsurfing on Ringkøbing 10 Viborg ...... 342 Fjord ...... 311

11 North Jutland 347 1 Mariager ...... 348 4 Laesø ...... 368 2 Aalborg ...... 351 5 Skagen ...... 372 3 Frederikshavn ...... 362 6 Hirtshals ...... 375

Appendix: Denmark in Depth 379

1 Denmark Today ...... 379 3 Danish Cuisine: From 2 History 101 ...... 381 Smørrebrød to Rødgrød med Fløde ...... 391 Dateline ...... 381

Index 393