Los Angeles Times Sure, the City Has Lots of Splashy Attractions, but We Wanted to Find the Gems That Sometimes Are Overshadowed

SUNDAY,TRAVEL MARCH 10, 2019 L TRAVEL

SAN DIEGO SURPRISESPhotograph of an angler under the Coronado Bridge by Ricardo DeAratanha Los Angeles Times Sure, the city has lots of splashy attractions, but we wanted to find the gems that sometimes are overshadowed. Paddle. Hike. Bike. Sail. Shop. Eat. Look with us and prepare to be amazed. L3-6

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Ricardo DeAratanha Los Angeles Times POINT LOMA: 1 SANExplore the tide pools, walkDIEGO the bluffs and gaze at the surfers at Sunset Cliffs Natural Park.ROCKS The 68-acre park extends 1 ⁄2 miles along the shoreline.

Head south, travelers. San Diego, California’s oldest city, turns 250 this year. Its baseball team turns 50. So does the Coronado Bridge, the long span that adds a curvaceous blue flourish to the skyline. Chances are good that you’ve already been to the San Diego Zoo; the Old Globe; the big art, science and aviation museums in Balboa Park; and the USS Midway Museum. But there’s much more waiting a couple of hours’ drive on Interstate 5. We’re pointing you to some of our other favorite spots, including museums, campus landmarks, historic structures and more.

NEIGHBORHOODS the San Diego Potters’ Guild (Stu- La Jolla, andGardens. Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. dio 29); and colorful glass pieces by Oceanside Mission Trails Fridays-Sundays. $15 for adults, Regional Park Andy Cohn and others (Studio 19). Mission $12 for seniors (65 and older), $7 for Balboa Park 163 If you’re lucky, you can watch a Bay 805 those 6-12 and 5 and younger ad- Music may have charms to glassblower at work at the outdoor mitted free. — C.H. Mission 5 soothe the savage breast, but that furnace. Beach wasn’t the body part that needed Info: Open 11 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. If you’re at Balboa Park at 11 attention. Instead, a chance to get 1770 Village Place; (619) 233-9050, a.m. on a Tuesday, you can take a 8 off my feet and restore my sagging spanishvillageart.com. Free. Mission Valley free staff-led tour (bit.ly/Balboa- spirits drew me to Balboa Park’s — Anne Harnagel ParkTours). And if you’re not? You Spreckels Organ Pavilion. Once I 8 University can do what I did and ride along El Old Town Heights was there, I never wanted to leave. With no kid in tow, I wasn’t Prado on an electric bike at night If you’re not a lover of organ expecting to stay as long as I did at SAN DIEGO when it’s less crowded. (All sorts of music, the hourlong concert may the San Diego Model Railroad 163 scooters also are available, too.) seem too high a penance to get off Museum, believed to be the largest Red Jump bikes can be found SAN DIEGO your feet, but only if you’ve not in the world. What I saw captivated INTERNATIONAL Balboa around the park. It’s affiliated with AIRPORT 5 Park heard Spain’s Raúl Prieto me for more than an hour: Bankers Uber, so if you’ve already down- Ramírez, who enters his second four intricate, historically accurate Hill loaded that app, you can be ped- year performing these concerts. layouts of train routes through aling in no time. The animated organist opened the Southwest. Local model rail- Little Info: Jump bikes, jump.com. Embarcadero Italy — C.A. with “America,” segued into Bach’s road clubs began construction of East About 15 cents a minute. Adagio and Fugue in C major, the true-to-scale layouts in 1982; Shelter Village 94 Island switched seamlessly to movie they now cover about 27,000 square Downtown Do you really need a streusel- music, gave us a little Louis-Nico- feet of model train operations. covered coffee cake with straw- las Clérambault and topped it all Favorite scenes: a tiny, incredibly NAVAL AIR STATION berries and raspberries from Ex- Point NORTH ISLAND 5 off with the national anthem. detailed church in El Centro — Loma traordinary Desserts? A caramel- After the concert, audience the organ pedals are made of Barrio ized chocolate lava bun — a “flaky, members could take a closer look toothpicks — and the Tecate Logan croissant-like pastry with a center Coronado at the 5,000 pipes and 80 ranks that Brewery. of creamy hazelnut-flavored choc- make up the historic instrument, Info: 1649 El Prado, Suite 4; olate”? A froissant — a croissant which dates to 1914. (619) 696-0199, sdmrm.org. Open 10 San deep-fried with a vanilla custard Info: For a schedule of perform- a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays, 11 Pacific Diego topped with a berry? Are there not 1 MILE ances: spreckelsorgan a.m.-5 p.m. Saturdays and Sun- Ocean Bay better uses for your $6.25? .org/calendar. Free. days. Adults $11.50, $6 for students, Answers: No, you do not need — Catharine Hamm free for children 5 and younger. Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap these, and perhaps there are bet- — A.H. Los Angeles Times ter uses for your money, although I Spend a relaxing afternoon cannot think of one. browsing in charming Spanish The red carpet isn’t the only There may be grander Crafts- decor. A Stickley piano, for in- You don’t have to have a Village Art Center, near the en- place with stars. The San Diego man homes than the Marston stance, isn’t original to the house, pastry or a sweet when you go in, trance to the San Diego Zoo. The Astronomy Assn. sets up tele- House, but it’s not the architecture although Marston’s was a purvey- but why bother going in the first 37 gaily painted studios and gal- scopes for the public the first that’s the power of this 8,500- or of Stickley furniture. Instead, place? This place is all about des- leries surround a large courtyard Wednesday of every month for its square-foot manse at the north- the magic of the house is learning sert, the most important meal of — the paving stones are splashed Stars in the Park event, which west corner of Balboa Park. how Marston took his business the day. with color too — and are home to follows the Fleet Science Center’s The house was built for George acumen and turned it into a civics Info: 2929 5th Ave. (convenient more than 200 painters, potters, “Sky Tonight” planetarium show. I and Anna Marston, who moved in lesson — if you do well, remember to Balboa Park), (619) 294-2132, and photographers and more. was here to view the Super Blood in 1905. It’s no coincidence that a to do good — and a legacy. Balboa 1430 Union St. (near Little Italy), The red-tile-roofed buildings Wolf Moon, but the weather did not slightly yellow copy of the San Park, the Presidio of San Diego (619) 234-7001; extraordnardesserts were built in 1935 for the California cooperate. Only a sliver of the Diego Union, carefully placed on and the public library system, .com. — C.H. Pacific International Exhibition. blood-red moon was visible, but it the breakfast table, has a huge ad Torrey Pines State Natural They were used as barracks in was still a fun night. touting a sale on dresses and coats Reserve, Anza Borrego State Park Bankers Hill World War II, then claimed by Info: 1875 El Prado, sdaa.org/ (from $29.95) at Marston’s depart- and more all have Marston’s Walk around San Diego long artists in 1947. Look for: Joan Boy- events.htm#SP. Dusk, first ment store. fingerprints. enough and you’ll start to see it as er’s plein air paintings (Studio 2); Wednesday of the month. Free. A tour of the house is a better Info: 3525 7th Ave.; (619) 297- a city of canyons and bridges, handsome platters and vases at — Calvin Alagot lesson in history than in home 9327, bit.ly/MarstonHouse [See San Diego, L4] L4 SUNDAY, MARCH 10, 2019 LATIMES.COM/TRAVEL

EMBARCADERO: The Downtown San Diego skyline flows by on a Hornblower cruise that also includes views of Coronado and Point Loma, not to mention gray whales, orcas NEW REASONS TO

[San Diego, from L3] Embarcadero Take to the high seas on a especially two spans that trans- Hornblower cruise in search of port you from residential streets to gray whales, orcas and dolphins. If woodsy heights within minutes. you’re lucky, you might see a whale They’re part of the city’s 5 ½-mile breaching, but just being out on Seven Bridges Hike. the water and getting fresh views From 1st Avenue, turn east of Coronado, Point Loma and onto Quince Street to find a tres- downtown San Diego make the 3 tle-style bridge that looks like a 1 ⁄2-hour cruise worth it. The bow is Tinkertoy creation. The wooden the place to be for the best experi- bridge, built in 1905, once con- ence, but bring a jacket because nected pedestrians and a trolley the wind is chilly even on a sunny stop on 4th Avenue. Now people day. come and linger amid views of tree Info: Pier 2, 970 N. Harbor canopies and hillside homes from Drive; (619) 686-8700 or (619) 686- 60 feet in the air. 8715, hornblower.com/port/fleet/sd. Farther north and west of 1st Daily tours at 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 Avenue is the Spruce Street Sus- p.m. Tickets start at $43, but pension Bridge, a hidden gem that through March 31 $30 tickets are creaks and sways when you cross available by calling. — C.A. its 375-foot span. Stay calm. Cables anchored in the canyon below hold it firmly in place. Little Italy Info: bit.ly/sevenbridgeshike. Live music and a fun crowd — Mary Forgione make the Little Italy Mercato an energetic place to spend your Barrio Logan Saturday morning. Local restau- Chicano Park stands at the rants provide pizza and gelato — heart of Barrio Logan with the what else do you really need? A Coronado Bridge and Interstate 5 long row of farm stands sell local branching overhead like arteries. produce, baked goods, honey, eggs Murals throughout the park tell and more — you’ll definitely leave the story of a community that has with a full stomach. A block from fought hard to preserve its culture Waterfront Park. on this soil. The park also has a Info: West Date Street between skatepark, playground and Kettner Boulevard and Front holds events that can be found on Street; (619) 233-3901, sandiego its online calendar. On April 20, markets.com. 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat- locals are celebrating the 49th urdays. Free. — C.A. Chicano Park Day, memorializing the nonviolent militant takeover The San Diego Firehouse of the park by the community. Museum, Old Fire Station Num- Festivities include a low rider ber 6, served the Little Italy com- car show along with food and munity from 1915 to 1970. The music. bricks-and-mortar building now Info: 49th Chicano Park Day, houses the museum and its collec- chicano-park.com. — C.A. tion of fire buckets, hoses and nozzles, helmets and protective Coronado gear and a 9/11 memorial. Nine fire engines have pride of place. The Bayview Park, a quiet little hand- and horse-drawn La Jolla space, offers a panoramic view of No. 1 — a beauty — dates to 1841 the San Diego skyline from the and was that community’s only fire comfort of shaded benches. Other protection in the early 1900s. parks offer comparable views, but Info: 1572 Columbia St.; (619) this intimate park feels special, 232-3473, sandiegofirehouse surrounded by trees and away museum.com. Open 10 a.m-2 p.m. from the madding crowds. It Thursdays and Fridays, 10 a.m.-4 Calvin B. Alagot Los Angeles Times makes for a good reason to make p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. BARRIO LOGAN: Wesley Ramos shows his tricks at the skatepark in mural-heavy Chicano Park. that trip across the Coronado Admission $3 for adults, $2 for Bridge. Bring a cup of coffee and kids. — A.H. at the visitor center. Trail runners mas and New Year’s Day. — M.F. Info: 10818 San Diego Mission watch the ships roll in. may finish in less than a day, but Road; (619) 281-8449, mission- Mission Valley Info: 413 1st St., Coronado; Mission Trails Regional take your time to absorb the sandiego.org. Adults $5, students bit.ly/BayViewPark. Free. — C.A. beauty of the city’s wild side. Mission Basilica San Diego de and seniors (55 and older) $3, Park Info: bit.ly/5peakchallenge. Alcalá marks the starting point of children younger than 12, $2. East Village Lace up your boots, hike to the — M.F. 21 missions that would transform — C.H. Two panels outside the Lillian top of a peak, snap a photo to Alta California. The original was Place affordable housing complex prove you made it, repeat four Walk through the Mission founded by Father Junípero Serra Old Town at 14th Avenue and J Street offer more times. That’s how the 5-Peak Trails Regional Park Visitor & in 1769 but moved to this location Kids — and their parents — will a historical snapshot of the Challenge works, with a lot of Interpretive Center and go about six miles inland in 1774. find lots to interest them at the African American neighborhood inspiring vistas to keep you going. straight to the outdoor terrace for Various iterations have stood here, William B. Kolender Sheriff’s that thrived here in the 19th and Well-marked trails and fire a dramatic view of the rough-hewn its current one a majestic struc- Museum, which showcases the 20th centuries. Lillian Grant, one roads wind through chaparral and ridges and valleys of Mission ture worthy of its position as the history of San Diego County Sher- of the first black women to own up rocky flanks to San Diego’s Gorge. It’s a peaceful spot where first. iff’s Department since its founding property in San Diego, ran a ra- highest point, the 1,592-foot sum- volunteers remind visitors that You can visit the excavation in 1850. Future law enforcement cially integrated boarding house mit of Cowles Mountain, where you this is what the land looked like project, look at the simple rooms officers can have their photo taken on the building’s site. At Market can see Tijuana in the distance as before Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo where the friars lived and visit the in a jail cell, don a judge’s robe in a Street and 2nd Avenue, the black- well as North and South Fortuna, arrived in 1542. The center, just 20 museum. Try to be here at noon. mock courtroom or sit on a motor- owned Douglas Hotel drew A-list Pyles and Kwaay Paay peaks. minutes from downtown, is a por- It’s then you get the fullest experi- cycle — it’s OK to let the siren wail jazz and blues artists such as The hikes are moderate (you tal to the 7,000-plus-acres of park ence of hearing the ringing of the — and then check out two squad Bessie Smith and Billie Holiday. have several routes to choose trails and history. Mater Dolorosa. The sound from cars and a helicopter cockpit. It rated an entry in the Green from), although most require a Info:1 Father Junípero Serra this 1,200-pound bell, which is also Exhibits on women in the de- Book travel guide for African steep scramble to the summit. Do Trail; (619) 668-3281, mtrp.org/ rung at 6 p.m., will put a punctua- partment as well as its K-9 heroes, Americans. all of them and collect a finisher visitor-center. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. tion mark on your mission mus- search-and-rescue unit and emer- Info: 1401 J St. — M.F. pin and certificate, free of charge, daily except Thanksgiving, Christ- ings. gency responders also will keep LATIMES.COM/TRAVEL SUNDAY, MARCH 10, 2019 L5

Calvin B. Alagot Los Angeles Times and dolphins. Head to the bow for the best seat in the house, but don’t forget to bring a jacket; if the weather becomes too chilly, there’s always the viewing area indoors. ADORE SAN DIEGO

a.m.-3 p.m daily. — A.H. Natural Park, a 68-acre mini-park next to a residential neighborhood. Liberty Station’s Building 202 Once here, you can stroll on a houses several small museums bluff, gaze at the surfers or poke and galleries, including the Visions around in the tide pools. Art Museum, which showcases the If tide-pooling floats your boat, works of textile and fiber artists. find your way to the stairs leading On display through April 7: from the foot of Ladera Street to “Playing With a Full Deck,” a col- the water’s edge. At the bottom, orful contemporary collection of 54 you’ll find rocky territory that can small quilts, each representing a be slippery and dangerous, espe- playing card, and Ving Simpson’s cially if it’s high tide. There’s no “Unknown Territory,” industrial- shame in turning back, but those looking wall hangings and sculp- slippery rocks are filled with tures incorporating roofing felt tempting tide pools and little paper. creatures. Remember, though, do Info: Building 202, 2825 Dewey not touch. Road, Suite 100; (619) 546-4872, Info: 1253 Sunset Cliffs Blvd.; visionsartmuseum.org. Open 10 bit.ly/sunsetcliffspark. Free. a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, — Christopher Reynolds noon-4 p.m. Sundays. $7 admission; 18 and younger, free. — A.H. Shelter Island Pacific Rim Park, on the south- The San Diego Watercolor ernmost end of Shelter Island, Society hosts a monthly member rewards visitors with an easy walk- art show and sale in its bright, ing trail that has views of the Naval white gallery that includes a small Air Station on Coronado and library stocked with exhibit cata- downtown San Diego. With sculp- logs, art books and videos/DVDs. tures and monuments such as the Looking to hone your skills with a Pearl of the Pacific and Friendship paintbrush? The society offers Bell, it’s a cool spot to check out. weekend art classes. Info: 1407a Shelter Island Drive; Info: Building 202, 2825 Dewey bit.ly/pacificrimpark. Free. — C.A. Road, Suite 105; (619) 876-4550, Ricardo DeAratanha Los Angeles Times sdws.org. Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. University Heights BALBOA PARK-ADJACENT: Extraordinary Desserts’ apple crostata (baked tarts) are tempting. Wednesdays-Saturdays, noon-4 There aren’t many places like p.m. Sundays. Free. — A.H. Camera Exposure where you can walk in and find an expert who will “Marching Toward Empower- help you find the right gear. Ken- ment,” the permanent exhibit of neth Kahan, who has been in the the Women’s Museum of camera repair business for more California, incorporates items than 25 years, tends to all the from the Alice Park Collection, one equipment himself. The stock of California’s leading suffragists, ranges from small 35-mm point- in its exploration of the suffrage and-shoots to large-format cam- movement from the Seneca Falls eras. You’ll also find a good selec- Convention in 1848 to the ratifica- tion of 120 and 135 film. tion in August 1920 of the 19th Info: 2703 Adams Ave.; (619) Amendment, which gave women 640-5300, cameraexposure.com. the right to vote. Also of interest is Open 12:30- 5:30 p.m. Mondays- a wall of fame honoring some of the Thursdays, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Fridays state’s leading women, including and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays. Clara Shortridge Foltz, the first — C.A. female lawyer on the West Coast. Info: Barracks 16, 2730 Historic Waterfront Park Decatur Road, Suite 103; (619) Snakes in a park! Six towering, 233-7963, womensmuseumca.org. golden heads with gaping red Ricardo DeAratanha Los Angeles Times Mary Forgione Los Angeles Times Open noon-4 p.m. Wednesdays- mouths and glittery mosaic collars BALBOA PARK: Both kids and adults will have WATERFRONT PARK: Niki de Saint Phalle’s Sundays, $5 for adults, $3 for stu- that twine together in a single stem fun at the San Diego Model Railroad Museum. “The Serpent Tree” sculpture is a landmark. dents and seniors, free for military have become a beloved local land- and children younger than 12.. mark. “The Serpent Tree” is a them occupied. Tanner Troupe offering “moral, military and children 6-12; younger — A.H. fantasy sculpture by the late Niki Info: 2384 San Diego Ave.; (619) chaste and versatile entertain- than 5, free. — C.H. de Saint Phalle, a French Ameri- 260-1850, sheriffsmuseum.org. ments.” If all that browsing has left you can artist who once called San Open Wednesdays-Sundays; There were those who thought Point Loma famished, head to the Liberty Diego home. check website for hours. $5 dona- daughter Violet less than moral. In Liberty Station, the former Public Market, where you can Other pieces amid the park’s tion; kids 12 and younger free with her 20s, she divorced her husband, Naval Training Center, welcomed chow down on ramen, corned beef, climbing rings, slides, swings and adult. — A.H. who was, by all accounts, a its first recruits in 1923. The city of empanadas, lobster rolls and more interactive fountains include a scoundrel, but she suffered the San Diego assumed ownership of offered by 30-plus vendors. For me, dazzling African American base- Is the Whaley House Museum a societal consequences. Depressed, the property in 2000 and has re- the shrimp tacos with pineapple ball player in a red shirt and blue Greek Revival home haunted by she shot herself with her father’s purposed the Spanish Colonial and habanero chutney ($4.75 each) and silver mosaic pants. It’s so bad luck and misfortune? To hear Smith & Wesson. Revival buildings as a showcase for at Cecilia’s Taqueria filled the kinetic you can almost hear the the story of the Whaley family, one The spirits that prowl about the arts and local businesses. You void. crack of his shiny gold bat. might believe that’s so. the place are thought to be hers, can spend the better part of a day Info: 2820 Historic Decatur Info: 1600 Pacific Highway; Thomas Whaley built the house her baby brother’s (he was a tod- strolling the park-like grounds and Road; (619) 487-9346, bit.ly/liber open 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. bit.ly/ in Old Town San Diego, where he dler when he died) and three browsing the small galleries, muse- typublicmarket. Open 11 a.m.-8 kwaterfrontpark. — M.F. and his wife, Anna, could raise thieves who were hanged on ums and shops of the Arts District. p.m. daily. Some vendors open for their family. the spot where the house was Before you do, fuel up with break- breakfast. — A.H. Points North: La Jolla This was no single-purpose built. fast sushi ($14.95) or brioche The Torrey Pines Gliderport, a structure. You still can see the Info: 2475 San Diego Ave.; (619) French toast ($9.95) at the Liberty Are crumbling cliffs proof that windy haven atop a 300-foot sand- courtroom where justice was 297-7511, whaleyhouse.org. Opening Station outpost of the Fig Tree California will eventually collapse stone cliff toward the north end of dispensed, but that same space and closing times (some evening Café before heading out on His- into the ocean? No, but they’re a La Jolla, is a great place to watch also had served as a school, a hours are available) vary by season; toric Decatur Road to explore. reminder that the ocean is eating the hang gliders and paragliders ballroom and a granary. You’ll see call or check website for times. Info: 2400 Historic Decatur away at some of the most gorgeous as they get in sync with the wind, a theater and stage, where a hand- Daytime admission: $10 for adults, Road, Suite 103; (619) 821-2044, corners of the state. For a demo, then launch themselves. Once they bill touts the performances of the $8 for seniors 55 and older, active bit.ly/figtreelibertystation. Open 7 head to Point Loma’s Sunset Cliffs [See San Diego, L6] L6 SUNDAY, MARCH 10, 2019 LATIMES.COM/TRAVEL NEW FAVES IN SAN DIEGO

[San Diego, from L4] catch an updraft, they can hang around for quite a while gliding above the clifftop. Between human launches, you can wander over to see the model aircraft enthusiasts heaving their models skyward and piloting them remotely. Or check out the Glider- port’s most notable recent addition — falconry lessons at the Total Raptor Experience, which includes a large enclosure in which several falcons roost between flights. (The 90-minute lesson [$77] includes calling the birds to and from hand-held perches.) At some point, belly up to the Cliffhanger Café for soup, salad or a sandwich. (Prices top off at $9.49.) If you want a little more nature and a little more exercise, there’s a steep trail to Black’s Beach, popular with nudists and skilled surfers (it’s a demanding break). The clothing-optional zone runs from Ricardo DeAratanha Los Angeles Times the bottom of the trail to the north BALBOA PARK: Catch a glassblower at work at Studio 19 at the Spanish Village Art Center, home to 37 galleries and studios. for about a mile. Info: 2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Drive, La Jolla; (858) 452-9858, flytorrey.com. — C.R.

UC San Diego is best known for its top-ranked science programs. But it’s also a great place to visit for arts and architecture. Its Geisel Library (William L. Pereira Associates, 1970), in particular, looks like a spaceship from a plan- et where concrete was cheap. Scattered throughout the 1,200-acre main campus are 20 pieces of public art that make up the still-growing Stuart Collec- tion. The colorful “Sun God” (Niki de Saint Phalle, 1983) was the first and may be the most beloved. But I have a soft spot for Terry Allen’s “Trees” (1986), which includes two faux eucalyptus trees concealed within a eucalyptus grove. Their surfaces are wrapped in gray lead and periodically they “talk” — that is they play recorded songs, poems Anne Harnagel Los Angeles Times and stories. Calvin B. Alagot Los Angeles Times THE PEARL: Each of the hotel’s 23 rooms has Info: 9500 Gilman Drive, La CHULA VISTA: Feast on spicy pork tacos with avocado sauce at Tacos El Gordo. one sweet feature: a betta in a fishbowl. Jolla; (858) 534-2230, ucsd.edu. — C.R. of teeming neighborhood clubs things going for it. First, the price. I gelato counter that features locally lage); (858) 488-9060, themission and bars as well as Petco Park — paid $94 on a Sunday winter night, made flavors, so you may find sd.com. Breakfast from $7.95. Oceanside no Uber or Lyft needed. It’s a including tax, for a comfortable yourself wondering if it’s OK to eat — M.F. Who would pay $35 to take a Staypineapple hotel, a brand that deluxe queen room with a kitchen- gelato for breakfast. (The answer nap and read? Someone who just strives to be the life of the party. ette and a private bath. You can is yes.) Start with a parking plan (or can’t seem to turn off the noise, Guestroom doors are covered with pay less, but you get less: Shared Info: 1704 India St.; (619) 234- maybe an Uber or Lyft) and a perhaps. You can find a cloak of surreal scenes that tease what’s rooms with bunks mean you and 6767, caffeitalialittleitaly.com. reservation at Plumeria in Uni- silence and a bit of history at Mis- inside: Floating goldfish? Zoo your bunkies will share a bath as Lunch from $6.25. — C.A. versity Heights before you even sion San Luis Rey in Oceanside, animals? A bushel of pineapples? well. The upside: Prices per night think about dinner at this Thai which offers an eight-hour retreat Visitors make their bed using two start as low as $35 a person. (There Prado is part of the Cohn vegetarian restaurant. The neigh- from the world, or Quiet Days, as rolled-up duvets and a slew of are various iterations of rooms for Restaurant group, a dining jugger- borhood is packed on weekends, they’re called. pillows. (There’s a flashcard to those who require more privacy.) If naut in San Diego with restau- and so is this cozy restaurant You register, show up at 9 a.m. help in case you’re stumped.) The you want parking, you’ll need to rants that run the gamut from that’s a good choice for vegan, and find your room (twin beds, friendly staff, free suite upgrade find it. Fortunately, I did, two sassy to snazzy. Balboa Park’s vegetarian and gluten-free diners. desk and sink) with a locking door and free breakfast were part of a blocks away, and my car was there Prado is the latter, offering the Entrees have an aesthetic appeal: and a bathroom with toilets and recent experience. One drawback: the next morning. In all, a win for ideal prescription for a pleasant A spicy eggplant entree came with showers just down the hall. You are $45 a day to valet park; nearby lots the budget traveler. meal: If it’s a pretty day, get seated a star-shaped bed of brown rice. free to roam the grounds of the charge less than half the price. Info: 505 W. Grape St.; (619) outdoors to soak up more Balboa Menu includes stir fries, noodle mission established in 1798 by Doubles from $110, plus $20 nightly 230-1600, bit.ly/foundSanDiego. vibe and peruse the menu. You can dishes, curries and more. Fermín Francisco Lasuén, attend fee and tax. Deluxe queen from $119. — C.H. have vegetarian, greens, duck, Info: 4661 Park Blvd.; (619) Mass if you wish (not required), Info: 521 6th Ave.; (619) 330-6401, beef; the menu touches most all of 269-9989, myplumeria.com. Appe- enjoy a lunch (sandwich, salads, bit.ly/hotelzsandiego — M.F. My room at the Bahia Resort the notes. I chose the trio of grilled tizers from $4.95, entrees from cookies the day I was there) and had room to spare and even a skewers (steak with chipotle hon- $11.75. — M.F. generally spend the eight hours The Sofia, on the edge of the shaded balcony from which to ey, chicken with cashew curry, doing whatever you want. Gaslamp Quarter, is a boutique enjoy the view of Mission Bay. The shrimp with mango ginger sauce The large Buddha on a pedestal On a rainy Monday, my wants hotel whose common areas are stretch of beach in front of my on Asian slaw.) at the entrance to Saigon on Fifth were more sleep, reading a “seri- polished and pretty and whose room was lined with cabana-beds Info: 1549 El Prado; (619) 557- sets a soothing tone at this Viet- ous” book, wandering the gardens rooms are snug but comfortable. that served as a welcoming beacon 9441, bit.ly/pradobalboa. Lunch namese restaurant in Hillcrest, the of the 56-acre grounds and gener- Two drawbacks: The cost of my for guests. Also just outside my main dishes from $13.50, dinner city’s LGBTQ hub. You can spend ally savoring the absence of elec- $137-a-night-room grew because of window was an old-timey paddle from $24. — C.H. time digesting the long list of menu tronic intrusions. Worth it? Yes. At more than $17 in taxes, including boat that I hoped might have a options or go straight to the pho. twice the price. the transient occupancy tax, and a casino on it. It didn’t, but it’s free to Here’s what elevated Blind Most use a beef-based broth, but Info:4050 Mission Ave., Ocean- $15.58 guest services fee, which hotel guests and it takes you Lady Ale House,aNormal when asked the kitchen produced side; (760) 757-3659. See bit.ly/ included Wi-Fi, which I used, and across the bay to the Bahia’s sister Heights pizza-y joint (it also has a vegetarian version with fried tofu sanluisreyquietday for more on bikes, which I didn’t. Tack on $38 location, the Catamaran Resort charcuterie and mussels and that didn’t skimp on spicy flavor. one-day retreats, which cost $35 for valet parking and my bill was Hotel and Spa. After 9 p.m. the fries): a vegan pesto pizza among Insider tip: The restaurant vali- and require reservations. Longer more like $210. boat turns into a 21-plusnightclub its more cheesy and meaty cousins. dates parking for two hours at an retreats are available. Info: 150 W. Broadway; (619) with $5 specials on Fridays and I’m not vegan, but I don’t eat underground lot off 5th Avenue. — C.H. 234-9200, thesofiahotel.com. Dou- Sundays. cheese and I really miss pizza. This Info: 3900 5th Ave.; (619) 501- bles from $144. Info: 998 W. Mission Bay Drive; one, with cremini mushrooms, 8988, bit.ly/saigononfifth. Appetiz- — C.H. (858) 488-0551, bahiahotel.com. pickled onions and arugula ($16), ers from $5.95, pho dishes from HOTELS Doubles from $165. — C.A. was enough for lunch and dinner. $10.95. — M.F. Coronado’s 29-room La Coupled with a Burgeon 3 Day Take your basic U-shaped Avenida Inn provided a comfort- Window IPA (chosen for me to go A month had passed since I two-story motel from the ’60s, able room and a good beach- with the pizza), I practically first feasted at Tacos El Gordo, update it with a smidge of Mid- friendly location. It’s a short walk RESTAURANTS floated out of Blind Lady Ale and I was itching to get back to the century Modern and, voilà, you to the swank Hotel del Coronado, House, whose initials are BLAH creamy avocado-sauce-covered have the Pearl Hotel in Point Charles + Dinorah, the Pearl where you can peek in. The motel but is anything but. spicy pork tacos that haunted my Loma. The simply furnished guest hotel’s small bar and restaurant offers free parking and Wi-Fi, a Info: 3416 Adams Ave.; (619) dreams. I tried to find Tijuana- rooms — my mattress sat on what named for the original owners, pastry and coffee breakfast, and 255-2491, blindladyalehouse.com. style adobada tacos in L.A. but appeared to be a shipping pallet — opens onto a small saltwater swim- boogie boards if you need ’em. Pizzas from $11. — C.H. couldn’t find an equivalent. If do have one sweet feature: Each is ming pool. As you dine or float, you Info: 1315 Orange Ave., Co- you go during peak hours, you home to a betta swimming placidly ronado; (619) 435-3191, laavenida can watch classic movies on a large Reviewers seem to either love or could wait in line for a long while. in a fishbowl attached to a wall. screen attached to the building. inn.com. Doubles from $169, plus hate Rolberto’s Taco Shop in On my February trip I arrived at 7 (Scooter may have been my best tax and fees. — M.F. The C+D winter salad ($11) with Normal Heights. I fall in the love p.m. on a Saturday and stood in roommate ever.) The 23-room baby gem lettuce, charred dates category. My carne asada nachos line for an hour and 45 minutes. lodge, about a 10-minute drive If you want to stay in the and acorn squash, and two orders ($6.60) had a lot of personality But on my first trip in January, I from the airport, is convenient to of skewers — pork belly ($12) and heart of buzzing Little Italy, (tender, flavorful meat helped, as strolled in at 2 a.m. on a Sunday Liberty Station and Fort Rose- La Pensione is for you. I asked for a chicken ($10) — were just the right did the sauce). You say you can’t and waited only 10 minutes. This crans National Cemetery. mix of crunch and comfort on a quiet room away from the noise of judge a taco place by one dish? place is so happening that it Info:1410 Rosecrans St.; (619) India Street and the Piazza della January night. True. But the steady stream of opened another location around 226-6100; thepearlsd.com. 10 park- Info: 1410 Rosecrans St.; (619) Famiglia, and it was. The room was returning customers on a Sat- the corner. ing spots; overnight street parking 226-6100. Mains from $16. — A.H. small, with limited amenities (tiny urday afternoon suggested a fol- Info: 556 Broadway, Chula OK. Rooms from $159 a night. TV, $3 for bottled water), but the lowing. Vista; (619) 691-8848, tacoselgordo — A.H. Harbor Breakfast serves that shimmery silver wallpaper was Info: 3462 Adams Ave.; (619) bc.com. Tacos $2.40 each. — and lunch too — in two bright fun, and the roomy shower was 563-0438, rolbertos.menutoeat — C.A. Tropical hideaway Hum- blue rooms on a less frenetic great. Check-in was challenging; .com. Tacos from $2.55. — C.H. phrey’s Half Moon Inn on Shelter stretch of India Street in Little the hotel website does say its park- You’re likely to encounter a line Island has its own restaurant and Italy. The menu covers all the ing is limited, which means 20 Breakfast at the Mission in at ¡Salud!, a popular taco spot in concert venue as well as a pool breakfast basics — the pumpkin spots for the 67-room hotel. There Mission Beach offers creative Barrio Logan, but you’ll have area with a bar and Jacuzzi. The pancakes ($8) were scrumptious was no loading zone or valet serv- dishes with a healthful edge, good plenty to look at with art-covered spacious rooms have views of the — and there’s counter service and ice. I ended up parking overnight for vegetarian and gluten-free walls that reflect the vibrant cul- water, and the “island” is laid-back outdoor seating too. in an unfenced, open-air lot with diners. Soy chorizo and eggs with ture of nearby Chicano Park. Of and away from the hustle and Info: 1502 India St.; (619) 450- no apparent security five blocks cream chipotle sauce, gluten-free the many tacos on the menu, the bustle of the city. Just a 10- to 15- 7926, harborbreakfastsandiego from the hotel. cinnamon bread French toast and breakfast taco ($4.50) stood out: It minute drive to downtown and the .com. Omelets $14-$15, crab Bene- Info: 606 W. Date St.; (619) a Zen breakfast of egg whites and was filled with bacon, cheddar, Cabrillo National Monument. dict $16. — A.H. 304-6866, lapensione braised tofu share the menu with avocado and a runny egg that Info: 2303 Shelter Island Drive; hotel.com. Doubles from $150 a Settle down at cozy Caffe Italia more mainstream breakfast burri- brought it all together. There’s also (619) 224-3411halfmooninn.com. night. — A.H. and have a cup of Italian coffee or tos. It’s a good spot to linger over a a “not taco” part of the menu. Doubles from $199 — C.A. espresso. Its menu is mostly pani- cup of coffee (they don’t rush you). Info: 2196 Logan Ave.; (619) Hotel Z in the Gaslamp Found hotel, housed in a 1910 nis and salads, but there’s a waffle Info: 3795 Mission Blvd. (also in 255-3856, saludsd.com. Tacos from Quarter is within walking distance building in Little Italy, has several bar at Sunday brunch. It also has a North Park and SoMa East Vil- $2.50. — C.A. LATIMES.COM/TRAVEL SUNDAY, MARCH 10, 2019 L7 TAP INTO TASTING ROOMS

BY IRENE LECHOWITZKY >>> San Diego County’s dynamic craft brewing industry has a mix of enticing new enterprises. A bonus is a renewed emphasis on food. If wine is more your style, local vintners have new offerings as well. ¶ Here are fresh places to enjoy a brew or glass of vino.

Gravity Heights steppin’ and country wine (line) Thousands of nearby high-tech dancing. workers cheered the January Tasting flight: Four samples for opening of Gravity Heights. This is $15; the Bullet blend, a hearty red, a striking, large space with a patio was tops. bar in back. Info: 2919 Hill Valley Drive, Escon- Beer and food are on equal dido; (760) 690-6617, chevalwinery footing: The sophisticated menu .com offers items as diverse as tuna crudo and Moroccan vegetable Orfila Vineyards tagine as well as 13 house beers. & Winery Suds scoop: Brewer’s Best amber One of two new tasting rooms, was my favorite. Escondido’s 25-year-old Orfila Info: 9920 Pacific Heights Blvd., Vineyards & Winery planted a flag San Diego (Sorrento Mesa); (858) in Oceanside in January in a 283-8206, gravityheights.com bright, modern downtown space a block from the beach. Modern Times You’ll find charcuterie and Like Gravity Heights, Modern cheese boards, tortilla flatbreads Times was jammed from the get- and such light fare as polenta go. Its tasting room, which opened cakes to go with the wine offerings, in October in Encinitas, is a nice half of which are from estate-grown addition to the beach town’s hip- grapes and half from elsewhere. ster scene. There are clever design Tasting flight: Six samples for $15; touches throughout, and the wall the estate-grown red blend Full of stadium-style “bleacher” seat- Fathom Five hit the spot. ing is a hoot. Vegetarians: The food is all plant-based; the faux Info: 221 N. Cleveland St., Ocean- bratwurst was a hit. side; (760) 755-7040, orfila.com Suds scoop: The nitro version of La Fleur’s Winery the Black House oatmeal coffee Photographs by Ricardo DeAratanha Los Angeles Times tasting room stout was tops. ATTITUDE BREWING in Barrio Logan fea- CHEVAL WINERY in the hills of Escondido The San Marcos tasting room of Info: 470 S. Coast Highway 101, tures a modern tasting room with 22 taps. features a huge patio with room for dancing. La Fleur’s Winery, which opened in Encinitas; (760) 452-4304, May, is a family affair. moderntimesbeer.com Owners Dana and Dave La fantastic murals in Chicano Park. solid. Latchkey is a short hop from Info: 326 N. Horne St., Oceanside; Fleur and their daughter, Kayla Amplified Ale Works It features large tables and eye- Old Town and the airport, but (760) 754 1434, northernpinebrew Thomas, are gracious hosts. Amplified Ale Works, which catching works by Jalisco artist one-way streets and parking can ing.com There’s room in the warehouse for opened in August in the East Paco Racru. be tricky. such events as country line danc- Village near Petco Park, isn’t brew- I can’t quite explain it, but the Suds scoop: The SD 1915 rice lager ing; it was amusing to watch folks ing on-site yet. For now, this casu- wooden bar stools evoked memo- was light and smooth. take lessons while trying not to al, hip pub features an extensive ries of Jacob’s ladder “click-clack” THE WINE SCENE spill their wine. Info: 2120 W. Washington St., San lineup from its San Diego brewery toys. Interesting wraps (ahi tuna, Starting a vineyard is very La Fleur’s is featuring more Diego; (858) 284-7076, latchkey and serves coffee, cocktails and chicken curry salad) dominate the different from opening a brewery; estate-grown wine from its Escon- brew.com Mediterranean food. menu. if nothing else, you have to wait dido vineyard (the rest uses grapes The large, dog-friendly patio Suds scoop: The Famous, a Mexi- years for the vines to reach maturi- from Temecula, etc.). has picnic tables on AstroTurf can lager, was bright and refresh- Northern Pine Brewing ty. Nonetheless, San Diego Coun- Tasting flight: Five samples for overlooking a pocket park and is ing. Three blocks east of rapidly ty’s first-rate winery scene, which $12; the Right Bank blend had the an oasis even as condo towers go is strong on reds, continues to right stuff. up next door. Info: 1985 National Ave., San Di- gentrifying downtown Oceanside, ego; (619) 795-4257, attitudebrew Northern Pine Brewing, which flourish. Info: 215 S. Pacific St., San Marcos; Suds scoop: The Pig Nose Pale Ale ing.com opened in October, has a wide- (760) 983-2838,lafleurswinery.com was enjoyable. open parking lot, rare for the area. Cheval Winery Info: 1429 Island Ave., San Diego; Latchkey Brewing Co. The well-lighted tasting room has In the hills of Escondido, (619) 458-9443, amplifiedales.com/ Latchkey Brewing Co., now just a long bar and tables that can Cheval Winery, which opened east-village handle big parties. MORE IN THE shy of its first birthday, follows in nearly a year ago, is the result of a OFFING the footsteps of other local brew- The menu includes good bar- happy accident: The owners, Attitude Brewing ers who have graduated from the becue and such sides as collard looking for a property for their Mermaid Valley Vineyard in The modern tasting room same space in the historic 1930s greens and cornbread from That show horses, bought an estate Ramona and Starvation Mountain Attitude Brewing opened in Sep- Mission Brewery Plaza. Boy Good, a local fave. that came with 10-year-old vines Vineyards in Escondido are almost tember (although it had its grand It’s small and dark, with a Suds scoop: Survival of the begging to be harvested. ready to open, and Jack Simon opening in February) in Barrio patio, but the vibe is cheery, the Littest, a strong barley wine beer, The tasting room features a Vineyards plans to open a tasting Logan, just a few blocks from the bartenders friendly and the beer was excellent. huge patio with room for two- room in Carlsbad this year.