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Charles IV and – 700 years When all roads led to Prague

Title: Charles IV and Prague – 700 years When all roads led to Prague

Text: Prague Tourism, Petr Kučera Photo: Prague City Tourism, Luděk Sládek Mapping: IPR Graphic design and typesetting: Dynamo design s.r.o. Print: Agentura Bravissimo

Total print run: 25,000 copies Prague 2016 Not For Sale

Prague City Tourism Arbesovo nám. 70/4 / / 150 00 / CZ www.prague.eu www.charlesivinprague.com

1 Contents

2 Welcome to the Prague of Charles IV

4 The life of Charles IV in key dates

6 Notable events to mark 700 years since the birth of Charles IV

11 Prague and surroundings

14 Map of the Centre of Prague

17 Prague’s bridge of Charles IV

19 The Old

23 The New Town and Vyšehrad Welcome to the Prague of Charles IV Welcome to the Prague of Charles IV

safeguard interests. This also called on his military Welcome to the Prague know-how, swordsmanship and weapon-wielding, horse riding, and of Charles IV combat tactics.

The charm and the magic of Prague might seem to a visitor as Diplomat and the cumulated works of chance, like a beautiful human face. That is not quite the case, however, and one could almost say Charles met with political acclaim especially after he became of that Prague largely bears the hallmark of one man – the Czech the Romans. He was a constant reminder of the fact that diplomacy King and Holy Charles IV, born in 1316. During and political negotiation were his strong suit. He almost incessantly his , Prague became the Imperial seat that the gazes of took a say in conflict situations, always with the overall aim to reach the whole of were turned to. Get to know the wondrous a compromise, often with the help of matrimonial politics. legacy this exceptional personage of Czech and European history bequeathed to Prague – on the occasion of 700 years since his Life in Europe was influenced by many circumstances. Among the birth you have a unique opportunity to do so. important was the move of the Papal seat from to . That was not something Charles considered appropriate, and he made returning the back to Rome one of his objectives. An educated European and a devout After all, he himself had in April 1355 gone to the ‘eternal city’ to Christian accept the Imperial of the , which also formally made him the first among men of the then world. Charles IV (1316–1378), King of and , was one of the greatest European statesmen. His remarkable Neither , weakened by armed conflict with England, nor persona is a meld of seeming contradictions. This ambitious ruler, , faced with its Reconquista, nor the weak for the time Grand excellent diplomat and patron of the arts was also a harshly Duchy of could pose a threat to Charles’ plans for the pragmatic realist. Yet he was a true European, at ease with German, Realm. Its stability was strengthened, inter alia, by the codification French and Italian culture, too. of Imperial rule in legal codex form, The of Charles IV. Likewise, he attended to economic prosperity, and cultural A Přemyslid after his mother Elizabeth, a Luxembourg after his development. father John. The family roots of Charles IV reach to the beginnings of the Přemyslid dynasty in Bohemia, but also to the first French Charles IV laid down sound foundations for the common good of and even to at the head of the medieval Roman Europe and remains an inspirational figure to this day. Empire.

Charles IV was born on 14 May 1316 in Prague. At that time, Europe was the centrepiece of the known world in the minds of Europeans, without any inkling of the existence of an American continent, and the most powerful country at the time was France. It was right there that Charles’ education began. He found himself at the French , as ruled by Charles IV the Fair, “le Bel”. As his ward, he had his own teacher-guardians, opening before him a path to extensive education, as well as notable political and personal contacts. His friends included e.g. the future Pope Clement VI. Last but not least, Charles brought back with him from his first wife, the much loved Blanche of the ascending royal line of Valois.

His all-round preparation for life continued in Luxembourg, on the family earldom, where the adolescent heir to the was raised by his authoritarian great uncle Balduin Archbishop of Trier. Charles continued his studies in statecraft, added to his linguistic prowess, as well as becoming fully conversant with courtly etiquette and knightly virtues. In time, he was called over to Northern by his father John, where in a setting rife with intrigue he was to help him

2 3 The life of Charles IV in key dates The life of Charles IV in key dates

The life of Charles IV in key dates

1310 The Luxembourg dynasty ascends to the Czech throne 1342 Pierre Roger becomes the new Pope Clement VI Eliška Přemyslovna marries John of Luxembourg 1344 Prague bishopric elevated to an archbishopric 1311 John of Luxembourg’s as Czech King 1344–1346 Political lobbying by the to get Charles 14/5/1316 Birth of Charles IV the Holy Roman Crown 30/5/1316 Christened with the traditional name of Czech kings – 11/7/1346 Charles IV elected as Václav (Wenceslas) 26/11/1346 Coronation as King of the Romans in Bonn 1323 Sent off to be educated in France 2/9/1347 Coronation as King of Bohemia in Prague, the making 1323–1330 Residing at the French Royal Court, upon his of the St Wenceslas Crown, coronation ordinance confirmation took the name of his godfather, the written French King – Charles. Engagement and marriage to Blanche of Valois, a October 1347 introducing Charles IV to the cousin of the French king realm 1330–1331 Residing and being raised in Luxembourg 8/3/1348 Prague New Town founded 1331 Called to join his father in Northern Italy, to help 7/4/1348 The University (today’s ) founded him create a Northern Italian power base for the March 1349 Widowed Charles IV marries Anne of Bavaria Luxembourgs Charles IV crushes opposition in the realm 1331–1333 Residing in Italy 25/7/1349 Coronation as King of the Romans in The attempted poisoning of Charles by the Visconti family of 27/5/1353 Widowed a second time, Charles IV marries Anna of Charles’ first meeting with his brother John Schweidnitz Henry 6/1/1355 coronation in Milano Charles appointed as representative of John of Luxembourg in Northern Italy 5/4/1355 Imperial coronation in Rome Charles founded the fortress of Montecarlo 1355–1356 Proclamation and adoption of the Roman codex 25/11/1332 Battle of San Felice, Charles knighted through the Imperial Golden Bull of Charles IV 1333 Settled in the of /7/1357 Charles IV lays the foundation for the “stone bridge” (today‘s ) 1334 Charles receives from his father the of of Charles is joined in Bohemia by his wife 26/2/1361 becomes the birthplace of his long- Blanche of Valois awaited son Wenceslas 1335 Luxembourg power struggle over the Tyrol with 21/5/1363 Marriage to Elizabeth of Pomerania in Krakow Emperor Louis IV of Bavaria May 1365 Visit to Avignon, in an effort to convince Pope 1337 Charles’ exploration through , and the Urban V to return to Rome Adriatic to Tyrol, the war in Lombardy 4/6/1365 Coronation in Arles 1337–1339 Altercation between Charles and John (son and 14/2/1368 Birth of Sigismund of Luxembourg father) on the question of the mandate of the Czech Kingdom, Charles’ attempt at tutelary rule in Tyrol to October 1368 Charles’ 2nd journey to Rome, the Pope’s support for help his brother John Henry his resettlement there 11/6/1341 The Czech Provincial Assembly accepts and confirms 1370 Brandenburg acquired Margrave Charles as the future Czech King 10/6/1376 Eldest son Wenceslas elected King of the Romans 1341 Despite Luxembourg efforts, John Henry loses Tyrol 1377–1378 Diplomatic mission to France and the legacy of Henry of Carinthia; Charles tried in 1347 to get Tyrol back again, but without success 29/11/1378 Death of Charles IV in Prague

4 5 Notable events to mark 700 years since the birth of Charles IV Notable events to mark 700 years since the birth of Charles IV

One of the most important exhibits in the exhibition will be the Notable events to mark Crown with which Charles IV was crowned King of the Romans. This Crown will be on Czech territory for the first ever time. Also on their 700 years since the birth first ever outing from the St Stephen’s Cathedral in are two sculptures of Rudolf IV of Habsburg and his wife, the daughter of of Charles IV Charles.

Throughout 2016 Prague will host a number of interesting exhibitions, concerts, festivals and celebrations, thematically Exhibitions at connected with the life and times of Charles IV, the Czech King and Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, born 700 years ago this The and the Crown May. 15 May – 28 September 2016 / Prague Castle – Imperial Stables / The mainstay exhibition of the Charles IV commemorative events at Prague Castle. The chief exhibit, exceptionally shown separately, will The most significant expo project be the Czech Royal Crown. For the first time in modern history it will not be accompanied by the well known insignia (orb Emperor Charles IV 1316–2016 and sceptre) on display every five years, but by the Gothic insignia 15 May – 25 September 2016 / The National Gallery in Prague - that went with the Crown at the time of Charles, whose artistic Wallenstein Riding Hall, Carolinum / replicas were made for this exhibition using specific art restoration A Bavarian-Czech exhibition will present Charles IV as an techniques. extraordinary personage of European political and cultural history, as a pious, educated, confident and far-sighted ruler who did not hesitate to push his own agenda using a wide repertoire of diplomatic means. The exhibition aims to depict Charles IV free of the distorting layers of ideological prejudice and to offer the public an all-round portrayal of this historical personage with his positive and more sombre facets.

One of the unmistakable features of Charles’ concept of rule was the systematic use of fine art and to promote Imperial Majesty. Charles IV entered the history books as one of the most generous of art patrons and founders, at the same time as one of the most often portrayed rulers in European medieval history.

The Persona of Charles IV will be reflected against the kaleidoscopic backdrop of the broad cultural-historical realities of the time, The Crown of the Kingdom which in the 14th century encompassed e.g. climate change, crop 15 May – 28 September 2016 / Prague Castle – Riding Hall / failures, plague epidemics, the Jewish and financial An exposition to give symbolic access to the internal and external crises. And it is precisely in this historical context with its many triforium of the Cathedral of Sts , Wenceslas and Adalbert in obvious pitfalls that we shall be seeing an admirable flowering of their simplified spatial reconstruction. The triforium is historically Carolian art and architecture. Was life at the Imperial court quite the most secure, off-limits, sculpturally richly decorated gallery on so divorced from the not always satisfactory reality of everyday the outer and inner side of the nave of the Cathedral. In this showy life surrounding ? How was Charles IV actually perceived exhibit visitors will find even the funeral vestments from the royal by his contemporaries? Where did the funds come from to cover tomb, as well as getting sight of the royal busts in original form with the lavish and costly imperial pomp and splendour? How are we to the and polychromatic finish originally intended. understand the collecting of Holy relics, and what was the role of art in the of Charles’ imperial policy? The exhibition seeks The Crown without a King to answer these questions through 140 exhibits of diverse artistry 15 May – 28 September 2016 / Prague Castle – The Old Royal and craftsmanship as well as through cultural-historical and archival Palace / documents, on loan from many European and American museums, Visitors are taken on a tour of modern history via by the ‘Crown ecclesiastical and private collections. without a King’ exhibit, on show in the Romanesque cellar of the Old Royal Palace, the site where the were walled-up during

6 7 Notable events to mark 700 years since the birth of Charles IV Notable events to mark 700 years since the birth of Charles IV

World War II. It presents the tale of these most valuable artefacts of belongs among the most impressive Gothic works in Prague, and nationhood during the dramatic 20th century, from the formation of was personally commissioned by Charles IV to be built along with in 1918 until the year 1968. the bridge, to a design by Petr Parléř. The tower was ultimately conceived as a symbolic , through which Czech Kings The Crown of the Mother of would pass on their coronation procession through the city, heading 15 May – 28 September 2016 / Prague Castle – Theresian wing for the Cathedral of Sts Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert at Prague of the Old Royal Palace / Castle. The symbolism of the whole edifice and of its decoration The exhibition will focus on the Cathedral as the foremost edifice is an important cultural phenomenon in the history of Prague’s in the country. Presented will be the activities of the ‘Association medieval architecture, hence the new exposition focuses on this for completion of the Cathedral’, and information on its prominent aspect, highlighting the connection between the construction members. Also on display will be photographs from the Prague and artistic expression in the conceptual setting of its time. The Castle archives, taken in the course of building completion in the exposition will present the historical and contextual interlinking 19th and 20th centuries, and some artefacts from the completion of between the existence of the tower, Charles Bridge and their vicinity the Cathedral. and the circumstances that led to both heritage monuments being built. The Crown in the Palm of your Hand 15 May – 28 September 2016 / Prague Castle – Rosenberg Palace / Civitas Carolina or Building in the Times of Charles IV An exhibition to take the visitor through not only the reign of 13 May 2016 – 8 January 2017 / National Technical Museum / Charles IV, showing the Prague Groschen as the Kingdom of The main exhibition hall will present building crafts, at the time of Bohemia’s enduring coin. The exhibition will be based around the the great building boom during the reign of Charles IV. On show history of silver processing and gold plating techniques. The visitor will be a series of historical building elements and construction will also learn, inter alia, what face value the coin had, and what it procedures, for example, a functioning replica of the medieval could buy. human-power driven wooden hoist, whose design is based on the drawing in the Bible of King Wenceslas IV. Among other examples Architecture for the Crown of large construction machinery will be a fully functional replica of 15 May – 10 October 2016 / Prague Castle – Monastery a Gothic pile driver used for driving/hammering wooden pilot posts of St George / into the foundations of buildings or bridges. An interactive exhibition particularly for children, showing architecture in the Charles IV era. This will take place in cooperation Commemorative service of worship in honour of Charles IV with the organizers of the international artistic-architectural project 14 May 2016 / Prague Castle – Cathedral of Sts Vitus, Wenceslas ‘The Playful Architect’, whose aim is to bring closer to children the and Adalbert / historical architecture of their city, to teach them about architectural Pontifical mass held on the 700th birthday of Charles IV, who was, heritage, why it matters to care about it, and for it. among other things, actively engaged in the spiritual revival of the . The mass will be attended by Statesmen, Church From 15 to 29 May the Czech Crown jewels will be exhibited in the leaders and foreign guests. of Prague Castle. A Tribute to Charles IV 17 May 2016 / Prague Castle – Cathedral of Sts Vitus, Wenceslas Other Events and Adalbert / The Orchestra will mark the anniversary of Medieval festivities at Prague Castle Charles IV with a concert in St Vitus Cathedral. The program was July and August 2016 / Prague Castle – Deer Moat / conceived to celebrate this great ruler with dignity, majesty and Knightly weekends in the beautiful environment of the upper Deer sensitivity. Under the baton of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra Moat of Prague Castle presenting the life of medieval and chief conductor Jiří Bělohlávek we’ll hear the composition jousting tournaments from the days of Charles IV. aptly named A Tribute to Charles IV, the symphonic poem by and the Te Deum by Antonín Dvořák. The Mystery of the Tower from 1 April 2016 / The City of Prague Museum – Old Town Bridge The History of Charles University Tower / until 31 December 2017 / Carolinum / The main exhibit of the new permanent exhibition will be the tower An exhibition in the vast underground vaults of the Carolinum itself, its inner spaces, dungeons, stairs, roof and especially the opened on the occasion of the 667th anniversary of the founding of gallery platform with its wonderful view. The Old Town Charles University. Presented here are the inception Charter of the

8 9 Notable events to mark 700 years since the birth of Charles IV Prague Castle and surroundings

University and copies of the University seal as well as and artefacts marking historical milestones: e.g. the schools changed Prague Castle greatly under the Josephinist reforms; the split of the University into Czech and German parts; the inception of Czechoslovakia or the fall and surroundings /1/ of the Communist regime. During the reign of Charles IV Prague became his Imperial seat. The exhibition is divided into several parts mapping out the Its most important aspect was Prague Castle, commanding the University’s progress – from the Utraquist, through ‘Charles- rocky promontory above the River . Naturally enough, Ferdinand’ and Charles University today. Also recollected are the paid most attention to this particular locality. The notable personae associated with the University, e.g. the biologist experience from his youthful years at the French Royal Court, and physiologist Jan Evangelista Purkyně, the renowned physicist in the Italian Signoria or the lavish Archbishopric of Trier, made or the Nobel Prize for Chemistry laureate Jaroslav Charles wish to combine security with a pleasant ambiance, Heyrovský. to be enveloped with beauty and riches. The power- and political centre of the Holy Roman Empire had to be a dignified, 2016: Tiburtina Ensemble representative and impressive place for incoming visitors. 18 May 2016 / National Gallery in Prague – Monastery of St / Prague Castle III. Courtyard The Tiburtina female vocal ensemble with the Swiss counter-tenor Prague Castle dominates Prague’s panorama. The main historical Terry Wey presents a programme subtitled Reverence for the Virgin part is that of the III. courtyard, lined with buildings of the Old Royal Mary in the 14th century. At the core is the Messe de Nostre Palace, the All Saints Chapel, the Black Tower, and medieval wall (Mass to the Virgin Mary) by the medieval master Guillaume de remnants. The life of the Imperial Court was centred right here. Machaut (circa 1300–1377), who was much connected with the Diplomats, artists, craftsmen, envoys from the imperial cities found Czech lands. This composer was active from 1323 for a full 17 years “their King” ready to give audiences. At the same time, however, as Secretary serving the Czech King John of Luxembourg. The the monarch was mindful of his exclusive status and expected due programme adds to his works with monophonic Marian chants from respect. Charles IV was able to combine within the Castle walls a Czech sources of Charles’ time. perfect blend of secular and ecclesiastical power. The silhouette of the Gothic Cathedral of Sts Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert stands in Prague Spring 2016: Graindelavoix witness. 19 May 2016 / Na Slovanech (Emmaus) Monastery / The Belgian ensemble Graindelavoix performs the “ Vespers” The Cathedral of Sts Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert – vocal compositions from the manuscript from the late 14th The monumental form of the Cathedral at first glance tells of its and the first half of the 15th century, where Gothic chants meet spiritual significance for Czech statehood. It became not only the the Byzantine vocal tradition and the Maronite (Lebanon) Catholic Coronation venue for Czech Kings and Queens, but also the most Church. This music will appropriately enough be heard within the appropriate place for the safekeeping of the newly crafted Crown walls of the Emmaus monastery, where Charles IV let the rites be and crown jewels. The laying of the foundation stone of the Gothic done in Old Church Slavonic. building on the site of an earlier and basilica in 1344 was no accident. It was closely tied to the Prague bishopric being elevated A Musical medley on the Luxembourg theme to an Archdiocese, which was one of the major achievements of 11 May 2016 / / Charles’ policymaking. A concert in honour of Charles IV performed by the Prague Symphony Orchestra.

Coronation Festivities 3–4 September 2016 / Vyšehrad, Old Town Square, and other places in the historical centre / A reenactment of the coronation of Charles IV and his wife, Blanche of Valois, investing them with the of King and Queen of Bohemia. With a coronation procession through Prague, a feast at the royal court, and a knights’ tournament in honour of the new King.

For more supplemented and updated information to www.charlesivinprague.com. Content subject to change

10 11 Prague Castle and surroundings Prague Castle and surroundings

The French Gothic inspiration is clearly evident. The first Master cognisant of his own sins, he was prone to showy piety and missed builder, Matthias of Arras built the choir with ambulatory chapels, no opportunity to obtain such relics. The high degree of artistic then Petr Parléř added the span and built the cultural centre of the craftsmanship, the lavish implementation, these are a perfect temple – the chapel of St Wenceslas, followed by the Golden Gate expression of the personality of Charles IV. Outstanding among and part of the main tower. For centuries, the Cathedral remained the most precious objects is the gold relic cross, the reliquary arm incomplete. What began in the times of Charles was added to, and of St George or the onyx bowl and tower reliquary of St Catherine. only finished in the 20th century. Historic within the Treasury were the Crown jewels, created to honour St Wenceslas. ‘t miss the opportunity to see this rare treasury with your own eyes. It is located in the Chapel of the Holy Cross in the second courtyard.

Among the most highly prized parts of the cathedral is the Golden Gate – the ceremonial entrance to the temple from the III. courtyard, which is adorned with the original of the Last Judgement including the matchless rendition of Emperor Charles IV and his The Old Royal Palace wife Elizabeth of Pomerania. Another portrait of the monarch can The Emperor’s court and palace were in the immediate vicinity of be found in the chapel of St Wenceslas. The beautiful decoration the Cathedral. At the time of Charles’ permanently relocation to and distinctive architectural conception emphasize the uniqueness Prague, the situation at Prague Castle was not ideal. The original of the place, standing over the grave of the land’s most notable palace of the early medieval building style was far from apt for the of patrons, St Wenceslas. The wall covering of gold leaf, set with demands of royal entertainment and life. The result of the rigorous precious stones and wall paintings depicting the Passion form part reconstruction has not survived to this day, but the Old Royal Palace of the original decorations from the 14th century. Later additions has a whole Gothic floor to offer the visitor, which was originally show scenes from the life of St Wenceslas, ascribed to the Master intended to house the Queen. Although Charles’ audience rooms who authored the altar of Litoměřice. are gone, their place taken by today’s Vladislav Hall, at least some details can be seen, e.g. remnants of the Oriel Chapel, the ground The triple span of the nave and aisles is modern, but made to the floor Gothic arcades, or the hypostyle hall, there to remind us. original medieval plans. The Gothic tombs in chapels around the choir were made to Charles’ bidding, as a dignified resting place for his Přemyslid ancestors. Busts of members, including the Emperor himself, are featured in the inner gallery of the cathedral, called the triforium. The underground Royal Tomb holds the remains of Charles IV and other Czech Kings.

The monumentality of the temple is witnessed by its scale: 124 metres long, wide at the , 33 metres high vaulting, with the main tower standing 96.5 metres tall.

The St Vitus Treasury The unique role of the Cathedral is also borne out by its ecclesiastical treasury. Many rare pyxes with saintly relics have been preserved from Charles’ time. The Emperor was an avid collector. Perhaps

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Chapel of All Saints part of his urbanistic plans. The original township of Hradčany and Alongside his residence reconstruction, Charles also had built a the Lesser Town of Prague with it were an important access route new Chapel of All Saints. The compact regal chapel for the secluded to, and trade infrastructure for the Imperial residence. Close by was contemplation of kings was replaced by a free-standing sanctuary, the Premonstratensian Monastery in . Charles IV decided in which Charles IV founded the collegiate chapter in 1339. This to expand, secure and fit-out his immediate surroundings. He supremely Gothic edifice built by the Parléř Stoneworks was inspired substantially increased the adjacent castle grounds connecting to by the Sainte Chapelle in Paris. The great fire of the Lesser Town and Petřín Hill and around it, and right down to the River he erected the Hradčany in 1541 sadly caused much damage to this grand work, so so-called Hunger Wall /2/. Why the “hunger”? The marl wall was we cannot admire the original building details any more. The long to strengthen the defences of the city and of the residential seat. It languishing interim condition was remedied by the sister of Emperor was built at a time of raging famine in Bohemia. According to lore, Rudolf II, Archduchess of , who decided to finance a Charles secured subsistence for many of the city’s poor, given them partial rebuild. work on the construction site.

St George’s Basilica Charles IV also turned his attention to other buildings on Prague Castle grounds. True to the tradition and role of the Přemyslid family he so proudly belonged to, the King arranged for the Chapel of St Ludmila over the grave of this first of Czech statehood, in the Basilica of St George. Again it was the Parléř Stoneworks that took care of the implementation. The new Gothic level of the Chapel, its vaulting, the tombstone with the recumbent Saint and the wall paintings are of great artistic merit.

The Lesser Town below the Castle, being the seat of the Archbishop and the Knights of St John of (Church of Our beneath the Chain) /3/ was a key part of Charles’ power-base. For the sake of developing the city, however, there was a need to bring together both banks of the Vltava River. Charles IV took care of this with his usual panache. Prague’s bridge The Old Burgrave House and Black Tower of Charles IV There is one more location at Prague Castle closely linked with King Charles. These are the old castle Burgrave’s quarters, where the The Stone heart of Prague – the famous bridge which has been young monarch spent his first months after returning to Bohemia like a magnet for figural sculptors and poets alike. We walk in late 1333, and some years after. This site near the Black Tower across the bridge aware of the famed many who have done became a temporary substitute residence for the uninhabitable so before us since the 14th century, in the sure hope that this Royal Palace. Its stronghold-style, less-than-cosy architecture architectural gem of Charles IV will last for times to come. Yet offered no luxury, but was a new home for Charles nevertheless. this beautiful monument did not start out as anything more than a vital connection of two riverbanks beneath Prague Castle. The Prague Castle has remained a symbol of Czech statehood for more residential town of the Czech Kings and its inhabitants needed than a millennium. The reign of Charles IV belongs to its most to cross the River with dry feet. The requirement was clear, but important epochs. its solution far from simple.

Hradčany and the Lesser Town Judith’s Bridge Charles didn’t confine his attention only to the Castle. The Hradčany Apart from the fording points across the river and a wooden bridge, district and beneath the battlements, today‘s Lesser Town, were unfit to face the vagaries of the weather, Prague did in fact have its

16 17 Prague’s bridge of Charles IV The Old Town first real stone bridge already in the 12th century. The idea for the also find the antique sculptural portrait of Charles IV sitting a little bridge may have come from Daniel, the Bishop of Prague, but the to one side with his son and successor Wenceslas, above the gate. sponsor was the Přemyslid king Vladislav and, in particular, his wife Wonderful details indicate that the whole entrance tower was also Judith of Thuringia, hence the bridge so named. The construction, made by Parléř Stoneworks and completed in the 1380s. finished in 1172, survived without mishap until the great flood of February 1342, overcome by water which shocked with “... vastness A stroll along Charles Bridge is one of the finest things to and thickness of ice...”. From this point, the city had to make do with experience. From here, the city lies beckoning, at your fingertips. It’s a makeshift solution. At last, a new bridge was being built. hard to believe it was in its day open to cars and even tram traffic. The statues looking down from the pillars attest the fact that at the Charles Bridge /4/ time of its founding father Charles IV, the only decorative statue The Czech King and Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV was well aware was Christ on the cross. Only much later were the sculptures added how important a river crossing can be. Finally, on 9 July 1357 the whose mainly appearance tells of their era. foundation stone was laid, for a technically extremely demanding construction. Why not sooner? Maybe because the project was There is one statue, though, to be looked at closely. It is on the Old financially too demanding. Because of it, the Czech Kingdom became Town bridgehead and portrays the famous co-author of the bridge – indebted for many years to come. Charles IV /5/. Why not make your homage to him!

Construction continued well under the leadership of Petr Parléř. The young builder proved himself. Firstly, he had to avoid the remains of the earlier bridge, so the River was bridged a few yards upstream. To keep to the older bridge gate and tower on the Lesser Town side, the bridge was built in a slight arc; 515.76 metres (564 yds) long and 9.5 metres (30 ft) wide. The sandstone bridge rests on 16 arches of varying spans. Anchoring the pillars to millstones and oak slats was the approach of the time, and the bridge crossing level was uniquely some 13 metres (over 42 ft) above the waterline.

Everyone envisioned a beautiful and solid construction, built to withstand all floods. Maybe this was why the legend arose that raw eggs were mixed into the mortar, for maximal strength. Construction continued for many years, but was not completed in Charles’ The Old Town lifetime. Still, the funeral procession of the King and Emperor in 1378 had use of a near-completed bridge. The winding streets of the Old Town and its tiny nooks and crannies still recall how Prague used to be at the beginning of the reign of Charles IV. It was a city surrounded by solid walls and a moat, with a central market square, a fortified mercantile courtyard and a City Hall, representing civic government; a solid foundation for building a royal residence. It used to be called the Great City of Prague, but also Mater Urbium, the Mother of Cities.

Although Charles’ urbanistic projects were very grand, he paid attention to the Old Town in all respects. He expanded rights, assured the citizenry against potential losses, guarded their trade interests, supported the . By instating higher education he gave the Old Town lustre and privileged standing.

The House at the Stone Bell /6/ It was 1316, when the Old Town of Prague, perhaps even the House After a lot of thought the patron chosen for the bridge was St Vitus, at the Stone Bell saw the birth of the future King and Emperor whose rendition dominated the representative entry point to the Charles IV. The wonderful house emblem and the Gothic bridge. It stands with others decorating the Old Town Bridge Tower, details hint of the once large manor house, probably belonging to a beautiful example of Prague’s . Here we can the Royal family. An ordinary burgher house would hardly be so

18 19 The Old Town The Old Town richly decorated, with a fine Chapel on the ground floor. Its own well, candles. It was here that people came to honour the memory of inner courtyard, representational spaces in the tower of the House, their King. all of this attests to an exceptional place. Although the Church no longer has the original Gothic interior, its The Church of Our Lady before Týn /7/ ground-plan is of the three-nave basilica and choir. The monastery This three-nave basilica with its two 80 m tall towers is an cloister and former summer refectory attest to the high level artistic outstanding landmark. This Church too was largely built after the professionalism of Charles’ time. mid-14th century, with Court stoneworks participation and the active support of Emperor Charles IV. The curious name of the Church derives from the mercantile court and toll-house, known as Týn or Ungelt. The supremely Gothic structure’s second phase of construction was supervised by Petr Parléř, as seen from many of the details. For example, the richly decorated windows, chancel and its arcade, but especially the architecture and decoration of the monumental north portal leading to Týn Lane the unmistakable Parléř touch. The carved relief plates in the tympanum belong among the very best of Czech sculptural masonry. They illustrate the passion scenes of flagellation and crowning with thorns, and the crucifixion of Christ.

The U Štupartů House /9/ Near the Church of St Jacob there once stood a great court, U Štupartů, known for being a residence of the Royal family and Charles himself. It would seem that after his return to Bohemia in 1333 the young and politically ambitious royal heir-apparent spent a few months and made key decisions here.

Relics and the Church of St Gall /10/ Charles IV was famed for his collecting Holy relics and their reverent deposition in artistically made pyxes. He also managed to get a part of the skull of St Gall, directly in the monastery of St Gallen in Switzerland. On 29 September 1353 Charles personally gave the Church Plebanus this relic in a gold and silver reliquary. The interior of the temple is a veritable art gallery with an No wonder that the monarch had a weakness for this Old Town outstanding Gothic pewter baptismal font, the oldest in Prague, Church of St Gall. After all, we know he commissioned its Gothic decorated with embossed figures of the Apostles, the Gothic reconstruction, and celebrated his glorious coronation here, when on stone pulpit, or the two sediles with consoles shaped as crowned 2 September 1347 he and Blanche de Valois were finally crowned as heads. Singular woodcarvings are to be seen in the Calvary and the Czech rulers. Seated Madonna, both dating from 1410. Although the Church has undergone many subsequent modifications, it is ever linked to the The Chapel of the /11/ time of Charles IV. Our journey of discovery of Prague in Charles’ time next leads to the middle of the Old Town Square. It is hard to leave unnoticed the The Church of St James and the Franciscan Minorite Convent /8/ almost 70 metres high tower of the Old Town Hall, which hosts the Another place inextricably linked with Emperor Charles IV is the famous Prague with its astrolabe and enchanting Minorite Convent with the Church of St James. The supremely figurines of the 12 Apostles. Gothic structure of the Church began construction in the reign of Charles’ parents, John and Elizabeth, who even celebrated their The Town Hall Tower and its Marian Chapel, facing with its Oriel royal coronation there, but completion dates to as late as 1374. The window onto the big market square, are once again the work of the importance of the shrine was confirmed when it came to the death courtly stoneworks. The Chapel used to be an indivisible part of what of the Czech King and Holy Roman Emperor. It was here that the was the Town Hall proper, or Wolflin House, where the councillors body of Charles lay in State surrounded by five hundred burning and Burgermeister sat deciding the city’s weighty matters.

20 21 The Old Town The New Town and Vyšehrad

The Chapel itself came into being shortly after the tower was not, at first, a building, but an institution, the oldest founded North finished, and was consecrated in 1381. Its space is formed by the of the Alps. Step by step, the Colleges of the four University faculties nave in the corpus of the Tower, complete with richly decorated were founded: law, medicine, theology and the arts (the seven liberal five-sided Oriel, one of the finest works of Charles’ court architect arts), all on the territory of the Old Town. Petr Parléř. He was also responsible for the remarkable corner-piece statue, known as the Old Town Madonna. It is a fine example of The prime symbol of the University is, however, the Carolinum, i.e. the high standard of Czech sculptural work at the end of the 14th Charles’ College, originally the house of Rotlev, the Master of the century, as are other relief elements, themed with human faces and Mint. Its medieval palace architecture built of rough brick and stone, animals. with a preserved Cloister ambulatory, an Oriel Chapel and other Gothic details are world-class.

And what came next... Charles’ IV interest in developing his residential seat went beyond the existing city walls. Two major inceptions – of the “Coronation” Church of Our Lady of the Snows, and of the Slavic Benedictines’ Monastery in the year 1347 foreshadowed that the monarch’s most important edict was yet to come: to create a city, whose size and importance would aspire to Christ’s Jerusalem. The New Town and Vyšehrad – Prague as a European Capital The Church of St Giles /12/ The Church of St Giles, also founded by Charles, is quite The intention to establish a New Town of Prague was unmistakable. It stands proud of its Old Town surroundings even implemented by Charles IV only after careful preparation. Its today. We can easily imagine how astounding it must have seemed founding Charter was issued on 8 March 1348 and just a few at the time Charles IV sponsored this Gothic edifice, to go with the weeks later, attended by the Monarch and many guests from collegiate chapter he established. the Empire, the foundation stone of the new town fortifications was laid. The Gothic fortifications, stretching almost 3.5 km in The monumental triple nave was built on the site of an earlier length, with twenty-four defensive towers and four gates, were Romanesque church and consecrated in May 1371 by Archbishop Jan completed in just two years. Očko of Vlašim, in the presence of Charles IV himself, his Lady and the whole Court. The New Town is one of the greatest medieval establishments in Europe whose generosity drew on the ancient principles of city The history of the temple is associated with interesting events, a building, about a hundred years before their resurgence under noteworthy fact being that even during Charles’ reign it was already the Italian Renaissance. Prague became in size, administrative a venue for the sermons of John Milíč of Kroměříž, the most notable and economic security and its number of places of worship, the preacher of the pre-Hussite period. This was most third most important city in Europe. The principles of founding certainly evidence of the broad-mindedness and spiritual diversity of the New Town meant much more to Charles IV, as a palpable Charles’ Prague. manifestation of Heavenly Jerusalem.

Following an extensive Baroque refit the interior lost much of its Heavenly Jerusalem Gothic style, but from the outside this spiritual sanctuary’s details, While Charles IV surely considered extending his residence such as the original Gothic portal, still speak of 14th century important, even more important was the effort to build a new architecture. Jerusalem, a place medieval mysticism deemed the ideal city, the dwelling place of the redeemed. This intention corresponded to Carolinum – Charles University /13/ the thoughtful layout of squares and church buildings, and their The Old Town holds one more important first – on 7 April 1348 it distinctiveness. The five New Town churches are located at regular became a seat of higher learning, the University of Prague. This was intervals which, when viewed from above, mark out a cruciform

22 23 The New Town and Vyšehrad The New Town and Vyšehrad blessing of the city. Also the consecration of each shrine, which links held a very specific role in Charles’ Prague. It was founded in Prague with key imperial cities, shows Charles’ aim to make Prague November 1347 as the only monastery with Slavic rites in Western the Capital of the Holy Roman Empire and the Centre of secular , “trial run” by the Croatian monks that Charles IV government in the Christian world. The sacred halo of the New brought to Prague from the Benedictine Abbey of the island of Town was crowned in 1350 with the transfer of the Pašman near Zadar. They served the Roman Liturgy in the Old jewels to Prague. The jewels, along with rare relics then were always Church Slavonic tongue, and under Charles’ concept were a symbolic displayed on the first Sunday after Good Friday to large crowds bridge between Western and , one of his of the faithful at the New Town cattle market, today’s Karlovo aspirations. (Charles’) Square. Perhaps it was already then the intent to build for this purpose the exceptionally showy Chapel of Corpus Christi, albeit The magnificent monastery church, devoted to the Virgin Mary and its implementation was left to the next generation. Slavic patrons, was consecrated in the presence of the Emperor on Easter Monday in the year 1372. Drawing on the Gospel account of Church of Our Lady of the Snows /14/ ’ journey and meeting his disciples in Emmaus, which was read A sign of the future intention to found the town was the founding of at the occasion, the monastery became known as Emmaus. The the Carmelites monastery with the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. monastery quickly became a centre of Slavic liturgy and survived Charles IV founded it together with his wife, Blanche of Valois, unscathed through the . the day after coronation as Czech King, on 3 September 1347. The sovereign bequeathed land and timber for the construction of the Its history is remarkable, relating both to its Beuron decoration Church and the monastic buildings. Indeed, he deployed the material and due to events during World War II, when the area was heavily left from the temporary constructions for the coronation banquet. damaged by Allied bombing. Its present and very interesting Yet, of the monumental temple conceived in the project, which was appearance is the result of extensive post-war reconstruction. to have a total length of 100 metres, by 1397 only the chancel had Singular in Europe are its Gothic frescoes in the cloister, called the been built, rising to a height of almost 40 metres, over the roofs of Emmaus cycle, that takes us back to the reign of Charles IV. New Town houses. The temple was to have become the dominant feature of Prague’s on the right bank, which Charles sought to unite. Also interesting was the consecration of the Church, which linked it to Rome’s basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, symbolic of the spiritual bond between Prague and Rome. Further construction was halted by the Hussite wars. The Carmelitans eventually returned, too late to save this shrine, which was in a very bad condition. Its current form dates from the 17th century, at the onset of which Rudolf II chose to cede the monastery to the Franciscan order. They then managed to repair the dilapidated temple, restoring its roof span and significance.

Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St Charlemagne /16/ The Augustinian canonry with the Church of the Virgin Mary and of St Charlemagne was founded by Emperor Charles IV in 1350. The Gothic centrepiece has its place on the highest elevated point of the New Town, on the hill opposite Vyšehrad, which was thus given the honorific name Karlov – Caroli Sancti. The consecration of the Church refers to the of the Emperor Charlemagne, whom Charles IV was related to and saw as his personal and monarchic role model. By this extraordinary temple, Prague was connected with the city of Aachen, where the Kings of the Romans Church of Our Lady Na Slovanech /15/ were crowned. The Church was in fact built according to the layout The Slavic Benedictines monastery with the Church of the Virgin of the temple in which Charles IV was garlanded with the Crown of Mary, St Jerome, Cyril and Methodius, and Adalbert and Procopius Rome in 1349. It took a whole 27 years before the Church was largely

24 25 The New Town and Vyšehrad The New Town and Vyšehrad finished and consecrated. The original form of the temple has been Church of Our Lady Na trávníčku /19/ retained only partly, but it is still a remarkable work of Charles’ The monastery of the Servite alms order, and the Church of the Prague. Annunciation of the Virgin Mary Na trávníčku (also known as Na Slupi) were also founded by Charles IV, in 1360. Legend has it, the Emperor so promised before the Virgin Mary’s depiction in the Florentine monastery of the , giving thanks for his restored health. Charles IV held the Marian devotional cult in special reverence and dedicated a number of shrines accordingly. This temple is remarkable for its rectangular ground plan and for the most leaning tower in Prague. Even despite its partial neo-Gothic refit in the 19th century the building remains a significant example of the architectural and spiritual intentions of Charles.

Yet the founding of the New Town of Prague was not just about the aforementioned symbolism. Older parishes located on the newly commandeered territory were respected and included. Two new parish churches were built, dividing the unusually large territory The Church of St Catherine /17/ into two parts. The Augustinian monastery with its Church of St Catherine was another temple of the New Jerusalem. Charles IV founded it in 1355 The Church of St Stephen /20/ and the consecration was, once again, not at all arbitrary. Saint The parish church of the upper part of the New Town was built in Catherine of Alexandria was held in much esteem by Charles. The the 2nd half of the 14th century and entrusted to the order of the Monarch believed that her intercession had won him the near- Knights of the Cross with the Red Star. Worth a mention is its being lost battle of San Felice on 25 November 1332. He did not forget the only order originating from the Czech Lands and moreover a his patroness when founding this New Town temple in Prague. male order founded by a woman – St Agnes of Bohemia. The land Of the original Gothic church only the tall steeple tower remains. around the Church used to be the largest cemetery in the New Town Otherwise, it is predominantly the work of the Baroque architect of Prague. Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer. The Church of St Henry and Kunhuta /21/ The Church of St Apollinaire /18/ The parish church of the lower part of the New Town was The set of five key temples includes this unmissable hilltop church consecrated in 1351 by the Prague Archbishop, Arnošt of . at Větrov. It was founded by Emperor Charles IV in 1362, along with This shrine was entrusted to the Crusaders, from whom Charles IV the collegiate chapter transferred from Sadská in Eastern Bohemia. acquired most of the land for the New Town. The Church was The consecration of the Church to St Apollinaire refers to the Italian consecrated in honour of the Roman imperial couple Henry II and Ravenna, where, tradition tells us, Apollinaris was the first bishop. his wife Kunhuta. An interesting dedication once again, this time The Church dedicated to his name in Prague creates a spiritual referencing not only the Imperial tradition, but also the only Patron connection with Ravenna, a place which in the 5th century was the Saint of the Luxembourg dynasty. seat of Roman and whose Basilica di Sant’ Apollinare in Classe architecturally inspired the Prague shrine. Marketplaces were a major aspect of the New Town. The Horse market (), The Grain market (Senovážné square) and the Cattle market (Karlovo square) astounded with their unprecedented size, in the case of the central Cattle market extending over 8 hectares (20 acres). No wonder the New Town Hall came to be built right here.

New Town Hall /22/ As is clear from its timing, Charles IV supported the construction of the New Town Hall, featuring a massive corner tower, as the seat of . The supremely Gothic architecture of the Great Hall with its original arches and columns as well as the remnants of Gothic wall paintings bear this out; one of the most beautiful interiors of medieval Prague.

26 27 The New Town and Vyšehrad

Vyšehrad /23/ This Royal Castle and legendary Czech site, associated with the first ruler of the Přemyslid dynasty, played a key role in Charles’ ideas. Vyšehrad stood for the continuity of the Přemyslid dynasty, which the Luxembourgs joined when ascending to the Czech throne. Charles’ beloved mother, Queen Elizabeth, died there in 1330. Also, under the new coronation regulations, every incumbent Czech King was to stop there in prayer on the eve of his coronation. The Vyšehrad acropolis was connected to the New Town in the , with a rebuilding of the chapter-house Church of Sts Peter and Paul, whose symbolic conjoining to the cross of Heavenly Jerusalem underscored this site’s significance.

“What did for Rome, Charles IV did for the Capital of Bohemia“ (Uberto Decembrio, 1399)

28 Emperor Charles IV Supported by

National Gallery in Prague / Waldstein Riding School / 15 / 5—25 / 9 / 2016