Pr e face

TH I S book is a companion volume to that entitled

’ Yorkshire Coast and Moorland Scenes , which was 1 90 published in 4 . i It describes a t ract of country that is more full of noble and imposing scenery than the north

of eastern corner the county, although it has none

- of the advantages of a coast line . Beyond this , the area covered by the present volume is larger

on e than that of the earlier , and the historic events connected with its great over-lords and their castles , with the numerous monasteries and

so u ancient towns , are f ll of thrilling interest that it has only been possible to sample here and there the vast stores of romance that exist in some hundreds of volumes of early and modern writings .

GORDON HOME .

PSOM E ,

A r il 1 906. p ,

C o n t e n t s

CHAPTER I TH E D A LE CO UNTRY A S A W H O LE

CH AP TER II

RIC H MO N D

CHAPTER III SWA LE DA LE

CHAPTER IV WENSLEY DA LE

CHAPTER V

RI P O N A N D FO UNTA I N S A BBEY

CHAPTER VI

KN A RESB O RO UG H AN D H AR R O G ATE

CHAPTER V II WH AR FEDA LE

CHAPTER V III

KI PT O N MA LH A A N D G O R A LE S , M, D

CHAPTER IX S ETTLE A N D T H E IN G LETO N FELLs

I N D EX

L i st o f Illu st r at i o n s

1 Fou a n s e . nt i Abb y

2 R h mon d Cas e rom t h e R e r . ic tl f iv

3 R h m on d rom t h e We s . ic f t Swale dale i n t h e Early Au t u m n

5 Down h o m e Moor a o e Swa e da e . l , b v l l

Mu r on a orm A rn oon 6. k e St y fte

Tw h i n t h e Bu e r- u s Pass 7. ilig t tt t b

8 H ardraw For e . c

Ru d V w a o e We n s da 9. A gge ie b v le y le

1 a o e an H ou se at s r 0. A J c b A k igg

1 1 s ar h For e . Ay g t c

1 2 Bo on Cas e We n s e da e . lt tl , l y l

1 3 V e w u We n s e da e rom Le urn Sh aw . i p l y l f yb l

1 4 R on M n s e r rom t h e S ou h . ip i t f t

1 5 Kn are sborou h . g

1 6 Bo on A e Wh ar e da e . lt bb y, f l

1 H ubbe rh olm e Ch u r h 7. c

1 8 Th e Cour ard of S on Cas e . ty kipt tl

1 Gorda e S ar 9. l c

20 S e e . ttl

THE DALE C OUNTRY AS A WHOLE

CHAPTER I

D E SCRIBE S TH E DAL E C OUN TRY AS A WH O LE

WH EN in the early years of life on e learns for the first time the name of that range of mountains

of forming the backbone England , the youthful scholar looks forward to seeing in later years the prolonged series of lofty hill s known as the ‘ Pennine

’ - - Range . His imagination pictures Pen y ghent and

Ingleborough as great peaks , seldom free from a l mantle of clouds , for are they not cal ed moun

’ of do tains the Pennine Range , and they not appear in almost as large type in the school geography as Snowdon and Ben Nevis But as the scholar grows

so older and more able to travel , does the Pennine

Range recede from his vision , until it becomes almost as remote as those crater- strewn mountains in the

Moon which have a name so similar . This elusiveness on the part of a natural feature so essentially static as a mountain range is at t ribu table to the total disregard of the name of this 3 1 —2 4~ YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

particular chain of hills . In the same way as the

’ term ‘ Cumbrian Hills is exchanged for the popular

’ so i s of n Lake District, a large section the Pen ine Range paradoxically known as the Yorkshire

’ Dales . It is because the hills are so big that the valleys

t o are deep , and it is owing the great watersheds that these long and narrow dales are be au tifie d by some of the most c0piou s and picturesque rivers

of on e in England . In spite this , however, when

of climbs any the fells over feet , and looks

n on over the mou tainous ridges every side , one

as n o or sees , a rule , peak isolated height of any

’ description t o attract one s attention . Instead of the rounded or angular projections from the horizon that are usually associated with a mountainous district , there are great expanses of brown table land that form themselves into long parallel lines

of in the distance , and give a sense wild desolation in some ways more striking than the peaks of

Scotland or Wales . The thick formations of mill stone grit and limestone that rest u pon the shale

or have generally avoided crumpling distortion , and thus give the mountain views the appearance of having had all the upper surfaces rolled flat when they were in a plastic condition . Denudation and THE MOORLA ND SCENERY 5

the action of ice in the glacial epochs have worn

through the hard upper stratum , and formed the

L it t on dale long and narrow dales and in , Wharfe

dale , Wensleydale , and many other parts , one may plainly se e the perpendicular wall of rock sharply

defining the upper edges of the valleys . The softer rocks below generall y take a gentle s10pe from the base of the hard gritstone t o the river-side pastures

of below . At the edges the dales , where waterfalls — pou r over the wall of limestone as at H ardraw

— of Scar, near Hawes the action water is plainly

for on e se e demonstrated , can the rapidity with

n which the shale crumbles , leavi g the harder rocks

overhanging above . Unlike the moors of the north -eastern parts of

n ot . Yorkshire , the fells are prolific in heather It

i s t o —or possible pass through Wensleydale , indeed , — most of the dales without seeing any heather at

all . On the broad plateaux between the dales there are stretches of moor partially covered with ling ; but in most instances the fells and moors are grown over at their higher levels with bent

-ochri sh and coarse grass , generally of a browny

colour, broken here and there by an outcrop of l imestone that shows gray against the swarthy

vegetation . YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS — In the upper portions of the dales e ven in the

- — narrow river side pastures the fences are of stone , turned a very dark colour by exposure, and every where ou the slopes of the hills a wide network of these enclosures can be seen traversing even the most precipitous ascents . Where the dales widen ou t of towards the fat plains the Vale of York , quickset hedges intermingle with the gaunt stone , and as on e gets further eastwards the green hedge becomes triumphant . The stiles that are the fashion in the stone-fence districts make quite an in teresting

t o study strangers , for, wood being an expensive luxury, and stone being extremely cheap , every

of thing is formed the more enduring material .

- on e Instead of a trap gate, generally finds an execs si ve l y narrow opening in the fences , only just giving

for Space the thickness of the average knee, and

n thus preventi g the passage of the smallest lamb . Some stiles are constructed with a large flat stone

n on e projecti g from each side, slightly in front

so can and overlapping the other, that one only pass through by making a very careful S -shaped movement . More common are the projecting stones , making a flight of precarious steps on each side of the wall . Except in their lowest and least mountainous THE STONE ROOFS 7

t par s , where they are subject to the influences of the plains , the dales are entirely innocent of red tiles and haystacks . The roofs of churches , cottages , barns and mansions , are always of the local stone , that weathers t o beautiful shades of green and gray, and prevents the works of man from jarring with the great sweeping hillsides . Then, instead

- of the familiar gray brown haystack , one sees in almost every meadow a neatly-built stone house with an upper story. The lower part is generally used as a shelter for cattle , while above is stored hay or straw . By this system a huge amount of d unnecessary carting is avoided , and where roa s are few and generally of exceeding steepness a saving of this nature is a benefit easily understood . Any soldier wh o served in South Africa during the latter part of the war would be struck with the advantages that these ready-made block -houses would offer if it were ever necessary t o round up a mobile enemy who had taken refuge among the l - Yorkshire fel s . Barbed wire entanglements, and a f system o telephones to link them together, would be all that was required to convert these stone barns into block - houses of a thoroughly useful

for . type, they are already loopholed

vi v The llages of the dales , although ha ing none 8 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

of the bright colours of a level country , are often

t of exceedingly quaint , and rich in sof shades green

and gray . In the autumn the mellowed tints of the stone houses are contrasted with the fierce

w - of yellows and bro ny reds the foliage, and the

villages become full of bright colours . At all times , except when the country is shrivell ed by an icy

of northern wind , the scenery the dales has a

of thousand charms . By the edge fine rivers that pour downwards in terraced falls on e fin ds hamlets with their church towers , gray and sturdy, and

of ash - all the little patch green shaded by trees , made diminutive by the huge and gaunt hillsides that dominate every View . Looking up the dales , there are often glimpses of distant heights that in their blue silhouettes give a more mountainous

aspect t o the scenery than one might expect . l as In some of the val eys , such Swaledale, the nakedness of the yellow-brown hills is clothed with a mantle of heavy woods —but enough has been said by way of introduction to give some notion of

of n the general aspect the dales , and in the succeedi g

chapters a closer scrutiny can be made . The ways of approaching the Dale Country from

of the south are by means the Great Northern ,

t o W Midland , or Great Central routes York , here

RICHMOND

CHAPTER II

R I C H M ON D

F O R the purposes of this book we may consider

Richmond as the gateway of the dale country .

There are other gates and approaches , some of which may have advocates wh o claim their superiority over Richmond as starting-places for an exploration of this description, but for my

of part , I can find no spot on any side the moun t ain ou s region so entirely satisfactory . If we were to commence at Bedale or Leyburn , there is no exact point where the open country ceases and the dale begins but here at Richmond there is not the

on very smallest doubt , for reaching the foot of the mass of rock dominated by the castle and the town , Swaledale commences in the form of a narrow ravine , and from that point westwards the valley never ceases to be shut in by steep sides , which become narrower and grander with every mile . YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

The railway that keeps Richmond in touch with the world does it s work in a most inoffensive

t o manner, and by running the bottom of the hill on which the town stands, and by there stopping

r sho t , we seem to have a strong hint that we have been brought t o the edge of a new element in which railways have no rights whatever . This is as it should be , and we can congratulate the North Eastern Company for it s discretion and its sense of fitness . Even the station is built of solid stone

a of work, with strong flavour medievalism in its

it s design , and attractiveness is enhanced by the complete absence of other modern buildings . We are thus welcomed to the charms of Richmond at

. o once The rich sl ping meadows by the river , wi crowned th dense woodlands , surround us and form a beautiful setting of green for the town , which has come down from the fantastic days of the Norman Conquest without any drastic or u n seemly changes , and thus has still the compactness and the romantic outlin e of feudal times . By some means Richmond avoided the manu factories that have entirely altered the character of such places as Skipton and Durham , but if we wish t o se e what might have happened or what

is for may still befall this town , it only necessary A ROMA NTIC TOWN 1 5

us to go a little way above the new bridge , and

se e of there, beneath the castle heights , one the most conspicuously and unnecessarily ugly g as works that was ever dumped upon a fair scene . I suppose a day will arrive when the Mayor and Corporation will lay their heads together with the object of devising a plan for the removal of these dismal buildings t o some site where they will be ff less o ensive, but until that day they will continue to mar the charms of a town whose situation i s

a almost unequ lled in this island .

From whatever side you approach it , Richmond has always some fine combination of towers over looking a confusion of old red roofs and of rocky

- l heights crowned with ivy mantled wal s , all set in the most sumptuous surroundings of silvery river ll and wooded hi s , such as the artists of the age of

- of steel engraving loved t o depict . Every one these views h as in it on e dominating feature in the magnificent Norman keep of the castle . It overlooks church towers and everything else with precisely the same aloofness of manner it must have assumed as soon as the builders of nearly eight hundred years ago had put the last stone in

t o place . Externally, at least , it is as complete

as it i v day was then , and as there is no y upon it , 1 6 YORKSHIRE DA LES A ND FELLS

I cannot help thinking that the Bretons who built it in that long-distant time would swell with pri de were they able t o se e h ow their ambitious work has come down the centuries unharmed .

We can go across the modern bridge , with its castellated parapets , and climb up the steep ascent on u on the f rther side , passing the way the parish

on church , standing the steep ground outside the circumscribed limits of the wall that used to e n

n close the tow in early times . Turning towards the castle , we go breathlessly up the cobbled street that climbs resolutely t o the market - place in a foolishly direct fashion , which might be understood if it were a Roman road . There is a sleepy quiet ness about this way up from the station , which is quite a short distance , and we look for much movement and human activity in the wide Space

on we have reached ; but here , too , this warm and t sunny af ernoon, the few folks who are about seem t o find ample time for conversation and loitering . At the further end of the great square there are some vast tents erected close to the big obelisk

- of that forms the market cross the present day .

of Quantities straw are spread upon the cobbles , and the youth of Richmond watches with intense interest the bu lg in g s of the canvas walls of the

1 8 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

t e cti on of the formidable castle built by that Alan

’ Rufus of Brittany who was the Conqueror s second

of cousin . The town ceased to be a possession the

of . Dukes of Brittany in the reign Richard II , b ut there had evi dently been suffi cient time to all ow French ideals t o percolate into the minds

of of the men Richmond , for how otherwise can we account for this strange familiarity of shops with a sacred building which is unheard of in any other English town ! Where else can on e find a

’ pork-butcher s shop inserted between the tower

n and the nave , or a tobacconist doing busi ess in the aisle of a church ! Even the lower parts of

so the tower have been given up to secular uses , that on e only realizes the existence of the church by keeping far enough away t o see the sturdy pinnacled tower that rises above the desecrated lower portions of the building . In this tower

- 6 a m is . . hangs the curfew bell, which rung at and

8 r h a m . s p . , a custom , according to one w iter, that continued ever since the time of Will iam the Con

’ queror . The bell, we know, is not Norman, and the tower belongs to the Perpendicular period , but the church is referred to in Norman times , V r of . and Leland, w iting in the reign Henry III ,

i of suggests an earl er survival . He may, course, A TEMPLE OF IDOLES 1 9

i m be descr bing Nor an grotesque carvings , but , on the other hand , he may be recording some relics of a more barbarous age when he writes ! ‘ There i s a Chapel in Ri cbe mon t Toune with st rau n g

Wau lle s P l Figures in the of it . The e p e there

’ dre m e on s that it was !a temple of] Idoles . I wonder if those carved figures were entirely destroyed in the days of the Commonwealth , or whether they were merely thrown aside during some restoration , and are waiting for digging or building operations to bring them to light . All the while we have been lingering in the market -place the great keep has been looking at

t o us over some old red roofs , and urging us go on at once t o the finest sight that Richmond can ff o er, and , resisting the appeal no longer, we make our way down a narrow little street leading out t o a walk that goes right round the castle cliffs at

- the base of the ivy draped walls . If this walk were at Harrogate or Buxton , we can easily imagine that its charms would be vitiated by some evidences of a popular recognition of its attractiveness . There would be a strong orna mental iron railing on the exposed side of the path ; there would probably be an automatic machine waiting t o supply a souvenir picture 3 —2 20 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS — post card of the View ; there would be notices most excellent where they are needed—requesting visitors not to throw paper or orange—peel any where but in the receptacle supplied ; and, besides

n o all this , there would, I have doubt , be orna mental shrubberies , and here and there a few beds

of of flowers , kept with all the neatness municipal ff horticulture . Such e orts would meet with some

of sort response on the part of the public, and the castle walk would be sufficiently populous to prevent anyone from appreciating its charms . No instead of all this we find a simple asphalt path

t wo or without any fence at all. There are three seats that are perfectly welcome , but there is a

of or - delightful absence shrubberies flower beds , and the notices to the publi c fixed t o the castle walls are weathered and quite inconspicuous .

i s Beyond all this , the castle walk generally a

on e place in which can be alone , and yet

’ This i s n ot solitu de ; t is bu t t o hold ’ ’ w se c arm s u n o Con e rse a u re s c arms an d se e o . v ith N t h , th h f ld

From down below comes the sound of the river , ceaselessly chafing its rocky bottom and the big

Y ou boulders that lie in the way . can distinguish the hollow sound of the waters as they fall over ledges into deep pools , and you can watch the

RIC HMON D CASTLE FROM T H E RIV ER

TH I S we ll -kn ow n V ie w of th e castle from th e banks of t h e Swale 1 5 o nly one of th e n ume rous roman tic a b e n In R n The pictu re s th t can fou d ichmo d . re a rman e e a th e e ar 1 1 0 rms g t No k p , built bout y 5 , fo th n e a re e th e n e domi ating f tu of e ve ry asp ct of tow .

22 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

W of hatever the existence of these walls , for Leland begins his description of the town wi th

’ Ri c/Lamon t w wau llid the words To ne is , and in

! Wau llid another place he says it was , but the

n w d ca id waul is o e y . The Names and Partes of 4 or 5 Gates yet re m ain e He also tells u s the names of some of these gates ! F r en c/zeg ate yn the

of North Parte the Towne , and is the most occupied

o F in k l—str eu te G ate B ar ata f . e Gate the Towne , g , all iii be downe Leland also details how the

- wall enclosed little beside the market place, the d houses adjoining it , and the gar ens behind them , and that the area occupied by the castle was

a f practically the same s that o the town . We wonder why Richmond could not have preserved

or she her gates as York has done , why did not even make the effort su fli ci e n t to retain a single

t wo one , as Bridlington and Beverley did . The

—on e m posterns we have just entioned , and the

’ on of other in Friar s Wynd , the north side the

- 6 market place , with a piece of wall feet thick — adjoining are interesting, but we would have preferred something much finer than these mere arches ; and while we are grumbling over what

Richmond has lost, we may also measure the

- 1 1 disaster which befell the market place in 77 , VA NDA LISM AT RICHMOND 23

was when the old cross destroyed . Before that year there stood on the site of the present obelisk

wh o wr a very fine cross which Clarkson, ote about a century ago , mentions as being the greatest

of t he t o beauty town an antiquary . A high

flight of steps led up to a square platform, which was enclosed by a richly ornamented wall about 6 feet high , having buttresses at the corners , each

- surmounted with a dog seated on its hind legs . W ithin the wall rose the cross , with its shaft

r of made f om one piece stone . There were many ’ l curious compartments in the wal , says Clarkson , and a door that opened into the middle of the

’ square , but this may have been merely an arched opening. The enrichments , either of the cross itself or the wall , included four shields bearing the arms of it z- the great families of F Hugh , Scrope (quarter

in Tibe t ot . g ) , Conyers , and Neville From the description there is little doubt that this cross was a very beautiful example of Perpendicular or perhaps Decorated Gothic , in place of which we have a crude and bulging obelisk bearing the

! l l A . D . 1 1 inscription Rebui t ( ) 77 , Christopher

Wayne, Esq. , Mayor it should surely have read ! Perpetrated during the Mayoralty of

’ Christopher Wayne, Goth . The old cross was 24 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

’ for pulled down particular reasons , says Clark son , but , even if those reasons had been valid , the stones might have been carefully marked , and the whole structure could have been rebuilt in

- some other part of the market place .

wh o Although , as we have seen , Leland , wrote i n 1 53 8 F re n ch at e , mentions g and Finkel Street

’ Gate as down , yet they must have been only

or for partially destroyed , were rebuilt afterwards,

r 1 823 Whitaker, w iting in , mentions that they

’ were pulled down ‘ n ot many years ago to allow

- the passage of broad and high laden waggons .

There can be little doubt, therefore , that, swollen with success after the demolition of the cross , the Mayor and Corporation proceeded to attack the

so n ow remaining gateways , that not the smallest suggestion of either remains . But even here we have not completed the list of barbarisms that took place about this time . The Barley Cross , which stood near the larger one , must have been quite an interesting feature . It consisted of a lofty

t o pillar with a cross at the p , and rings were fastened either on the shaft or t o the steps upon

so which it stood , that the cross might answer the

of - purpose a whipping post . The pillory stood

- not far away, and the may pole is also mentioned . THE ‘ FRERES ’ OF RICHMOND 25 But despite all this squandering of the treasures that it should have been the business of the town

t o authorities preserve , the tower of the Grey

t o Friars has survived, and , next the castle, it is

of one the chief ornaments of the town . Whitaker is by no means sure of the motives that led to its — preservation perhaps because he kn ew the Rich mond people t oo well to expect much of them

! for he writes Taste , however, or veneration, or lucky accident , has preserved the great tower of ’ f the Freres of Richmond . Certainly none o these causes saved any other port ions of the buildings , for the beautiful Perpendicular tower

of stands quite alone . It is on the north side the

t he town , outside narrow limits of the walls , and was probably only finished in time to witness the b dispersal of the friars who had uilt it . It is even possible that it was part of a new church that was still incomplete when the Dissolution of the Monasteries made the work of n o account except l as building materials for the townsfo k . The 1 9 1 53 8 actual day of the surrender was January , , and we wonder if Robert Sanderson, the Prior, ff and the fourteen brethren under him , su ered much from the privations that must have attended them at that coldest period of the year. At 26 Y ORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS one time the friars , being of a mendicant order,

in i and ured to hard liv ng and scanty fare, might

of have made light such a disaster, but in these later times they had expanded somewhat from

of n their austere ways livi g , and the dispersal f must have cost them much suf ering. Almost in

r this actual year Leland w ites of their Howse, li ’ w Medow, Orchard , and a tle Wood , hich he mentions as being walled in, and , seeing that the wall enclosed nearly sixteen acres , it appears probable that the gray-cloaked men can scarcely have been ignorant of all the luxuries of life .

t o Notwithstanding this , they stoutly refused ’ ff acknowledge the King s supremacy, and su ered accordingly . V I I Going back t o the reign of Henry . or thereabouts , we come across the curious ballad of The Felon Sow of Rokeby and the Freres of Richmond quoted from an old manuscript by Sir

’ Walter Scott in Rokeby . It may have been as a practical joke , or merely as a good way of getting rid of such a terrible beast , that

Ra of Roke w oo w lph by, ith g d ill , ’ m ave e The frye rs of Rich on d g r h r till .

F wh o riar Middleton, with two lusty men was THE FELON SOW OF ROKEBY 27

t o sow sent fetch the from Rokeby, could scarcely have known that sh e was

Th e r s e s eas a e re m be g i li t b t th t ight , H e r he ad was gre at an d gray Sh e was bre d i n Roke by Wood ;

e re we re fe w a e r oe Th th t thith g d , a came on e = a e awa Th t liv ! liv ] y .

Sh e was so ri sle for t o me e t e g y ,

She ra e th e e ar u w h e r fe e t e v th p ith , A n d bark came fro t he tre e

e n r e r M e on he r sau Wh f y iddl t gh , We e e we h e m n ot au t y ll ight l gh, ’ ’ u earne s look d h e e F ll tly .

To calm the terrible beast when they almost impossible to hold her, the friar

’ ‘ G os e ll read in St . John his p , but

The sow sh e wou n ot La n e are ld ti h , ’ Bu t r u e ru s e at th e re ar d ly h d f ,

who , turning very white , dodged to the shelter

saw of a tree , whence he with horror that the sow had g ot clear of the other two men . At this their courage evaporated , and all three fled for their lives along the Watling Street . When they came to Richmond and told their tale of the

’ ‘ sow feind of hell in the garb of a , the warden decided t o hire on the next day t wo of the boldest 4 —2 28 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

’

. t wo men that ever were borne These , Gilbert

’ f son of S ain e t o Grif in and a bastard p , went Rokeby clad in armour and carrying their shields

of and swords war, and even then they only just overcame the grisly sow They lifted the dead

on t o of so brute the back a horse, that it rested across the two panniers ,

A nd t o Richmon d the y did hay e n e saw h e r come Wh th y , e san m e rr Te D awn Th y g ily , ’ Th e r e rs on a da f y th t y.

If we go across the river by the modern bridge,

’ s e we can e the humble remains of St . Martin s

n Priory standi g in a meadow by the railway. The ruins consist of part of a Perpendicular tower and d t a Norman oorway . Perhaps the tower was buil in order that the Grey Friars might n ot eclipse ’ l the older foundation , for St . Martin s was a ce l

’ belonging to St . Mary s Abbey at York , and was

d t o founded by Wyman, steward or apifer , the 1 1 00 Earl of Richmond about the year , whereas the Franciscans in the town owed their establish

R adu l h -R an u l h of ment to p Fitz p , a lord Middle 1 258 ’ ham in . The doorway of St . Martin s , with

’ it s zigzag mouldings , must be part of Wyman s building, but no other traces of it remain .

3 0 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS owned the great part of Yorkshire which had formerly belonged to Edwin , the Saxon Earl . It is not definitely known by what stages the keep

it s r reached present form , though there is eve y

of reason to believe that Conan , the fifth Earl Rich

t - as o . mond , left the tower externally we see it day This puts the date of the completion of the keep 1 1 4 6 1 1 1 between and 7 . The floors are now a store for the uniforms and accoutrements of the

so soldiers quartered at Richmond , that there is little to be seen as we climb a staircase in the walls ,

1 1 . feet thick , and reach the battlemented turrets

Looking downwards , we gaze right into the

se e chimneys of the nearest houses , and we the old roofs of the town packed closely together in the shelter of the mighty tower . A few tiny

- people are moving about in the market place , and there is a thin web of drifting smoke between us

n and them . Everythi g is peaceful and remote ; even the sound of the river is lost in the wind that blows freely upon us from the great moor land wastes stretching away to the western horizon .

It is a romantic country that lays around us , and though the cultivated area must be infinitely greater than in the fighting days when these battlements were finished , yet I suppose the Vale

RIC HMOND F ROM T H E WEST

FROM s omt V e a re a re e r e thi p of i w , g t st tch of f til and r e n r e e n T h e me ae a ichly wood d cou t y is s . di v l n n e r e o n I ts r e a e one looki g tow , p ch d ocky h ig ht bov th e e e wmdm s t he a e a n of d p g of Sw l , pl i ly shows how I n m R M n T he ts a e of t h e ich ou t sug g e ste d itse lf. a e e e m r m n e n th e e c stl k p shows ost p o i tly , but to l ft ’ of I t can b e se e n t he G re y Friar s T owe r and those of th e two churche s

THE CA STLE CHA PEL 3 1 of Mowbray which we gaze upon to the east must have been green , and to some extent fertile , when that Conan who was Duke of Brittany and also Earl of Richmond looked out over the innumerable manors that were his Yorkshire possessions . I can imagine his eye glancing down on a far more thrilling scene than the green three sided courtyard enclosed by a crumbling gray

t o wall , though him the buildings , the men , and l every detail that fil ed the great space , were no l doubt quite prosaic . It did not thri l him to see

—at - a man arms cleaning weapons , when the man and his clothes , and even the sword , were as modern and everyday as the soldier ’s wife and

se e child that we can ourselves , but how much would we not give for a half an hour of his vision ,

of or even a part a second , with a good camera in our hands Instead of wasting time on vain thoughts of this character, it would perhaps be wiser to go down and examine the actual remains of these times that have survived all the intervening centuries .

’ In the lower part of what is called Robin Hood s f o . Tower is the Chapel St Nicholas , with arcaded walls of early Norman date , and a long and narrow slit forming the east window . More interesting 3 2 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS than this is the Norman hall at the south—east

was angle of the walls . It possibly used as the

- of banqueting room the castle , and is remark able as being on e of the best preserved of the Norman halls forming separate buildings that are to be found in this country. The hall is roofless , but the corbels remain in a perfect state , and the windows on each side are well preserved . The

was builder probably Earl Conan , for the keep

of has details much the same character. It is

’ S collan ds of generally called Hall , after the Lord

of wh o Bedale that name , was a sewer or dapifer t o S collan d the first Earl Alan of Richmond .

on e was of the tenants of the Earl , and under the feudal system of tenure he took part in the regular guarding of the castle . There i s probably much Norman work in various

of parts — the crumbling curtain walls , and at the south west corner a Norman turret is still t o be seen . Unless the Romans established at Catterick had a station there , it seems very probable that before the Norman Conquest the actual site of Richmond

for was entirely vacant ; , though the Domesday Survey makes mention of on e or t wo names that l indicate some lost Vil ages in the neighbourhood , there are no traces in the town of anything earlier

3 4s YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

ou t William , having crushed the rebellion in the remorseless fashion which finally gave him peace his in new possessions , distributed the devas t at e d Saxon lands among his supporters ; thus a great part of the earldom of Mercia fell t o this

Breton . The site of Richmond was fixed as the new centre of power , and the name , with its apparently l obvious meaning, may date from that time, un ess the suggested Anglo -Saxon derivation which gives - — — f it as Rice munt the hill of rule is correct . A ter this Gilling must soon have ceased to be of any account . There can be little doubt that the castle was at once planned to occupy the whole area

t o- enclosed by the walls as they exist day, although the full strength of the place was n ot realized until

of wh o the time the fifth Earl , , as we have seen, was most probably the builder of the keep in its

final form , as well as other parts of the castle . Richmond must then have been considered almost impregnable , and this may account for the fact that it appears t o have never been besieged . In

1 1 4 of was 7 , when William the Lion Scotland

’ F an t osm e s invading England , we are told in Jordan

Chronicle that Henry II . , anxious for the safety of of an d of the honour Richmond , perhaps its THE VICISSITUDES OF THE CA STLE 35

R an du lf Glan vile custodian as well , asked de est

il Ri ch e m u nt en The King was in France , his

possessions were threatened from several quarters , and it would doubtless be a relief to him t o know that a stronghold of such importance was under the personal command of so able a man as

Glanville . In July of that year the danger from

the Scots was averted by a victory at Alnwick , in which fight Glanville was one of the chief com

manders of the English , and he probably led the

men of Ri chm on dshire .

It is a strange thing that Richmond Castle ,

it s - despite great pre eminence , should have been allowed t o become a ruin in the reign of

—a Edward III . time when castles had obviously lost none of the advantages t o the barons which they had possessed in Norman times . The only explanation must have been the divided interests

for of the owners . , as Dukes of Brittany, as well R as Earls of ichmond , their English possessions were frequently endangered when France and

so England were at war. And it came about that when a Duke of Brittany gave his support t o the Kin g of France in a quarrel with the

English , his possessions north of the Channel

H ow became Crown property . such a condition 5—2 3 6 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

of affairs could have continued for so long is

ffi t o n di cult understand, but the fi al severing came

at last , when the unhappy Richard II . was on the f throne of England . The honour o Richmond

l of then passed to Ralph Nevil e , the first Earl

i t o Westmoreland , but the title was g ven Edmund

Tudor, whose mother was Queen Catherine , the

of V all widow Henry . Edmund Tudor, as know ,

of of married Margaret Beaufort, the heiress John i Gaunt, and died about two months before his w fe —then scarcely fourteen years Old—gave birth to

son t o his only , who succeeded the throne of

V I I of England as Henry . He was Earl Rich mond from his birth , and it was he who carried the name t o the Thames by giving it t o his splendid t palace which he buil at Shene . Even the ballad

’ of ‘ The Lass of Richmond H ill is said t o come

is from Yorkshire , although it commonly con

id r d s e e a possession of Surrey .

Protected by the great castle , there came into

of existence the town Richmond , which grew and

flourished . The houses must have been packed closely together t o provide the numerous people with quarters inside the wall which was built t o

protect the place from the raiding Scots . The area of the town was scarcely larger than the PLA GUES AT RICHMOND 3 7

castle, and although in this way the inhabitants

on e gained security from danger, they ran a greater risk from a far more insidious foe , which took the form of pestilences of a most virulent character. After on e of these visitations the town of Rich l mond would be left in a pitiable p ight . Many houses would be deserted , and fields became over

’ run with briars , nettles , and other noxious weeds . There is a record of the desolation and misery that was found t o exist in Richmond durin g the

ofl reign of Edward III . A plague had carried about people ; the Scots , presumably before the building of the wall, had by their inroads added t o in the distress m the town , and the castle was such a state of dilapidation as to be wort h nothing a year . In the thirteenth century Richmond had been the mart of a very large district . It was

for a great centre the distribution of corn , and goods were brought from Lancashire , Westmore

t o land , and Cumberland be sold in the market on

Saturdays . Such an extensive trade produced a t large class of burgesses , merchants , and craf smen , wh o were su fli cie n tly numerous to form themselves into n o less than thirteen separate guilds . There were the mercers , grocers , and haberdashers united i into one company ; the glovers and Sk nners, who 38 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

combined under the name of fellmongers . There

were the butchers , tailors , tanners , blacksmiths , and

cappers , who kept themselves apart as distinct companies ; and the remaining nineteen trades

si x were massed together in guilds , such ill

as assorted people drapers , Vintners , and surgeons going together . With various charters , giving all t of sor s rights and immunities , these companies survived the disasters which befell the place ,

t of although the grow h other market towns , such as Bedale , Masham , and Middleham , undermined

t o their position, and sometimes gave rise loud complaints and petitions to be eased of the pay ments by which the citizens held their charter . W ith keen competition to contend against , the poor Richmond folk must have thought their lot a miserable on e when a fresh pestilential scourge

n i was i fl cted upon them .

on 1 1 59 The first death took place August 7, 7, when Roger Sharp succumbed to a disease which spread with such rapidity that by December 1 5 in the following year had died within the parish , and altogether there were deaths in the rural

of was deanery Richmond . This plague by n o

so means confined to Richmond , and great was the mortality that the assizes at Durham were not held , MEDIEVA L SPLENDOURS 3 9

and business generally in the northern parts of

England was paralyzed . In the Civil War the town was spared the

disaster of a Siege , perhaps because the castle was

for not in a proper state defence . If fighting had

occurred , there is little doubt that the keep would

have been partially wrecked , as at Scarborough , and Richmond would have lost the distinction of

possessin g such an imposing feature . As soon as one digs down a little into the story of so i t a town with rich a history as this, is

t o u tantalizing not go deeper . One wo ld like to study every record that throws light on the events that were associated with the growth of both the

t h e so on e castle and town , that might discard the mistakes of the earlier writers and build up such a picture of feudal times as few places in England

- . so so could equal Richmond of to day is silent ,

on e t o lacking in pageantry, that must needs go

of some lonely spot , and there dream all the semi barbarous splendours that the old walls have looked down upon when the cement between the great

’ stones still bore the marks of the masons trowels . One thinks of the days when the occupants of the castle were newly come from Brittany, when an alien tongue was heard on this cliff above the 40 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

Swale , even as had happened when the riverside echoes had had to accustom themselves to an earlier change when Romans had laughed and talked on the same spot . The men one dreams

of of are wearing suits chain mail, or are in the dress so quaintly drawn in the tapestry at Bayeux , and they have brought with them their wives , their servants , and even their dogs . Thus Richmond began as a foreign town, and the folks ate and drank and slept as they had always done before

a they left France . Much of this alien blood w s no doubt absorbed by the already mixed Anglo -Saxon

of and Danish population Yorkshire , and perhaps ,

on e if his descent could be traced , would find that the passer-by wh o has just disturbed our dreaming has Breton blood in his veins . Easby Abbey is so much a possession of Rich mond that we cannot go towards the mountains f until we have seen something o its charms . The ruins slumber in such unutterable peace by the riverside that the place is well suited to our mood to g o a-dreaming of the centuries which have been so long dead that ou r imaginations are not cumbered with any of the dull times that may

’ have often se t the canons of St . Agatha s yawning . The walk along the steep shady bank above the

4 2 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS as being one of the most complete groups of

se t buildings apart for this object . A noticeable feature of the cloister garth is a Norman arch belongin g to a doorway that appears to be of later date . This is probably the only survival of the

first monastery founded , it is said , by Roald , 1 1 52 Constable of Richmond Castle in . Building of an extensive character was , therefore, in progress at the same time in these sloping meadows , as

’ on . the castle heights , and St Martin s Priory ,

t o close the town, had not long been completed . W hoever may have been the founder of the abbey , it i s definitely known that the great family of Scrope obtained the privileges that had been

so possessed by the constable , and they added much t o the property of the monastery that in V the reign of Henry III . the Scropes were con side re d the original founders . Easby thus became

- of the stately burying place the family, and the splendid tombs that appeared in the choir of their church were a constant reminder to the canons of the greatness of the lords of Bolton . Sir Henry ffi le Scrope was buried beneath a great stone e gy, — — or of . bearing the arms azure , a bend his house

’ le Near by lay Sir William Scrope s armed figure , and round about were many others of the family THE LOST TOMBS OF THE SCROPES 43

buried beneath flat stones . We know this from the statement of an Abbot of Easby in the four t e e nt h century ; and but for the record of his words there would be nothing to tell us anything of these ponderous memorials , which have disappeared as completely as though they had had no more permanence than the yellow leaves that are just beginning to flutter from the trees . The splendid

of church , the tombs , and even the very family l Scrope, have disappeared ; but across the hil s , in

of the valley the Ure , their castle still stands , and in the little church of Wensley there can still be seen the parclose screen of Perpendicular date that one of the Scropes must have rescued when the monastery was being stripped and plundered .

The fine gatehouse of Easby Abbey, which is in a good state of preservation , stands a little to the east of the parish church , and the granary is

u e even now in s . On the sides of the parvise over the porch of the parish church are the arms of Scrope, Conyers , an d Aske ; and in the chancel of this extremely interesting old building there can be seen a series of - wall paintings , some of which probably date from the reign of Henry III . This would make them earli er than those at Pickering . 6—2

S WALEDALE

CHAPTER III

SWA LE DA LE

H E RE - T is a certain elevated and wind swept spot , scarcely more than a long mile from Richmond , that commands a View over a wide extent of

- f . o romantic country Vantage points this type ,

of - i within easy reach a fair sized town, are incl ned t o t o be overrated , and , what is far worse, be spoiled by the litter of picnic parties ; but Whitcliffe

Scar is free from both objections . In magni ficent September weather on e may spend many hours in the midst of this great panorama without being

os disturbed by a single human being, besides a p sible farm labourer or shepherd ; and if scraps of

- paper and orange peel are ever dropped here, the keen winds that come from across the moors dispose of them as efficaciously as the keepers Of any public parks . The View is removed from a comparison with many others from the fact that on e is situated at 4 7 4 8 Y ORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS the dividing-line between the richest cultivation w ff and the ildest moorlands . Whitcli e Scar is the Mount Pisgah from whence the jaded dweller in

of towns can gaze into a promised land solitude ,

’ e re n s a own not man s om n on we Wh thi g th t d i i d ll , ’ ’ A nd mor a a e e e n t l foot hath n e e r or r r ly b .

The eastward view of green and smiling country

u t o who is undeniably beautif l, but those can

’ appreciate Byron s enthusiasm for the trackless mountain there is something more in de fin able and inspiring in the mysterious loneliness of the west .

of The long, level lines the moorland horizon , when

n t o the sun is begin ing climb downwards , are cut ou t in the softest blue and mauve tints against the

of shimmering transparency the western sky, and the plantations that clothe the sides of the dale

on e beneath are filled with wonderful shadows , which are thrown out with golden outlines . The

for view along the steep valley extends a few miles , and then is suddenly cut off by a sharp bend where

of the Swale , a silver ribbon along the bottom the dale , disappears among the sombre woods and f the shoulders o the hills . In this aspect of Swaledale one sees it s mildest and most civilized mood ; for beyond the purple

S WALE DAL E IN T H E BA R! Y A U T UMN

T H E e a e n r m a a e R m n vi w is t k f o spot Just bov ich o d , ' s L a ne n du e k now n a Wi llance s e p . O is looki g we W th e m n a n Cra e n e n st , ith hig h ou t i s of v Just b yo d h e a e a t e blu pl t u .

WILLA NCE ’S LEA P 49

ll hillside that may be seen in the i ustration , cultiva tion becomes more palpably a struggle, and the

of gaunt moors , broken by lines precipitous scars ,

n assume co trol of the scenery . 200 i From feet below , where the river is flow ng

be d of along its stony , comes the sound the waters ceaselessly grinding the pebbles , and from the green

ba- pastures there floats upwards a distant baaing. No railway has penetrated the solitudes of Swale

on e dale, and , as far as may look into the future in

of such matters , there seems every possibility this loneliest and grandest of the Yorkshire dales retain ing its isolation in this respect . None but the simplest of sounds , therefore , are borne on the keen winds that come from the moorland heights , and the purity of the air whispers in the ear the pleasing message of a land where chimneys have never been .

of ff Besides the original name Whitcli e Scar,

- 1 606 this remarkable view point has , since , been

’ ’ popularly known as Willan ce s Leap . In that

Will an ce year a certain Robert , whose father appears to have been a successful draper in Richmond, was hunting in the neighbourhood , when he found f himself enveloped in a og . It must have been sufficiently dense t o shut out even the nearest 7 50 YO RKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

V Villan ce objects ; for, without any warning, found

on himself the verge of the scar, and before he could check his horse both were precipitated over

of the cliff . We have n o detailed account whether the fall was broken in any way ; but , although his

l illan ce horse was ki led instantly, W , by some almost miraculous good fortune , found himself alive at the bottom with nothing worse than a broken leg. Such a story must have been the talk of the whole

for t of the Dale Country months af er the event , and it is in no way surprising that the spot should have become permanently associated with the rider ’s

hi n name . He certainl y felt grateful for s astonishi g

of escape , despite the amputation the broken limb for , besides the erection of some inscribed stones that still mark the position of his fall from the

ff Willan ce t o cli , , in order further commemorate the event , presented the Corporation of Richmond with a silver cup , which remains in the possession of the town .

Turning back towards Richmond , the contrast — of the gently rounded contours and the rich cul t ivat i on gives the lan dscape the appearance of a vast garden . One can se e the great Norman keep of dwarfin the castle g the church towers , and the red - roofed houses that cluster so picturesquely A WONDERFUL VIEW 5]

f under its shelter . The a ternoon sunlight floods wi everything th its generous glow, and the shadows of the trees massed on the hill -slopes are singularly blue . At the bottom of the vall ey the Swale

dis abandons its green meadows for a time, and appears into the deep and leafy gorge that adds so much to the charm of Richmond . Beyond the town the course of the river can be traced as it takes its way past Easby Abbey and the sunny slopes crowned with woods that g o down on either side to its sparkling waters , until the level plain confuses every feature in a maze of hedgerow and coppice that loses itself in the hazy horizon . It is a difli cu lt matter t o decide which is the more attractive means of exploring Swaledale ; for if one keeps to the road at the bottom of the valley many beautiful and remarkable aspects of the

on e country are missed , and yet if goes over the moors it is impossible to really explore the recesses

old t o of the dale . The road from Richmond Reeth avoids the dale altogether, except for the last mile, and its ups and its downs make the traveller pay handsomely for the scenery by the way! t B u t this ought not t o deter anyone from using the road ; for i of l the View of the V llage Marske, cosi y situated among the wooded heights that rise above the 7—2 52 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

who t o n e w beck , is missed by those keep the road along the banks of the Swale . The romantic seclusion of this Village is accentuated towards

ilhl e s st s . evening, when a shadowy fills the hollows The higher woods may be still glowing with the

of f light the golden west , while down below a so t ness of outline adds beauty to every object . The old bridge that takes the road to Reeth across

n o - Marske Beck needs such fault forgiving light ,

n for it was standi g in the reign of Elizabeth , and , from its appearance , it is probably centuries older . There used to be a quaint little mill close t o the bridge , but this was , unfortunately , swept away when some alterations were being made in the f l o of . surroundings Marske Hal , a seat the Huttons

on e of in It was this family, whose hands the manor

3 00 t o of Marske has remained for over years , whom the idea occurred of converting what was i formerly a precipitous rav ne , with bare rocky scars on either side , into the heavily wooded and romantic

- spot on e fin ds t o day . Beyond the beautifying of l ll this ittle branch va ey of Swaledale , the Huttons are a notable family in having produced t wo Arch bishops . They both bore the same name of Matthew

. wh o Hutton The first , is mentioned by Thomas l ’ Ful er in his Worthies as a learned Prelate , was

54 YORKSHIRE DALES AND FELLS

that they seem t o be n o part whatever of their

sumptuous natural surroundings , and might almost suggest a ni ghtmare in which on e discovered that some of the Vilest chimneys of the Black Country had taken to touring in the beauty spots of the

country.

As one goes westward , the road penetrates right into the bold scenery that invites exploration when

’ ’ Wil an s viewed from l ce Leap . There is a Scottish feeling—perhaps Alpine would be more correct

in - l of the steeply fal ing sides the dale, all clothed in firs and other dense plantations and just where the Swale takes a decided turn towards the south there is a View up Marske Beck that adds much t o

’ the romance of the scene . Behind one s back the side of the dale rises like a dark green wall entirely

in shadow, and down below, half buried in foliage ,

the river swirls and laps its gravelly beaches , also

of in shadow . Beyond a strip pasture begin

of the tumbled masses trees which , as they climb ou t of of the depths the valley, reach the warm , level rays of sun light that turns the first leaves that have passed their prime into the fierce yellows and burnt siennas which , when faithfully represented

at Burlington House , are often considered overdone . Even the gaunt obelisk near Marske Hall responds A BOVE SWA LEDA LE 55

to a fine sunset of this sort , and shows a gilded side that gives it almost a touch of grandeur. Evening is by no means necessary to the attrae

of tions Swaledale , for a blazing noon gives lights and shades and contrasts of colour that are a large

’ portion of Swaledale s charms . If instead of taking

old or either the road by way of Marske , the new on e on e by the riverside , had crossed the old bridge f below the castle , and le t Richmond by a very steep road that goes to Leyburn, one would have reached a moorland that is at its best in the full light of a clear morning, The road goes through l the gray little vil age of Hudswell, which possesses some half- destroyed cottages that give it a forlorn and even pathetic character . As one goes on

of w towards the open plateau Do nholme Moor, a sense of keen regret will force itself upon the mind for here, in this gloriously healthy air, there are cottages in excess Of the demand , and away in the

of great centres labour, where the atmosphere is lifeless and smoke begrimed , overcrowding is a

l who perpetual evil . Perhaps the good fo ks might l ll have been dwel ing in Hudswe , or some other breezy village, prefer their surroundings in some gloomy street in Sh e fli e ld perhaps those who li ved in these broken little homes died long ago , and 56 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS there are none wh o sigh for space and air after the fashion of caged larks perhaps But we have

n ow reached a gate , and when we are through it

‘ u t and o on the bare brown expanse , with the wide

ni on horizons becko ng every side , the wind carries

it s away every gloomy thought , and leaves in place n e is of o vast optimism , which , I suppose, the joy

’

on e t . living, and of God s best gif s to man

n o of The clouds are big, but they carry threat

for rain, right down to the far horizon from whence this wind i s comin g there are patches of

a blue proportionate to the v st Spaces overhead . As

su n each white mass passes across the , we are immersed in a shadow many acres in extent ; but the sunlight h as scarcely fled when a rim of light

of comes over the edge the plain, just above the hollow where Downholme village lies hidden from

a of sight, and in a few minutes th t belt sunshine

off has reached some sheep not far , and rimmed their coats with a brilliant edge of white . Shafts of whiteness , like searchlights , stream from behind ll a distant cloud , and everywhere there is bri iant contrast and a purity to the eye and lungs that only a Yorkshire moor possesses .

ou r Making way along a grassy track, we cross the heather and bent, and go down an easy

D L ME M R A B V E S AL EDA L E OWNHO OO , O W

I D E r z n e n n far e n th e W ho i o s b cko i g , b yo d hill

G rea ne e r e a t ss ov h d , ’ ‘ T h e flock s con te n te d t re adg ' ' A n trample o th e morning Win d adown the ope n ! ra t il . H H B . A S H F RD O .

58 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

’ morning s dazzling sunshine . When we get lower

of down , and have a glimpse the Swale over the hedge , a most imposing scene is suddenly visible .

We would have illustrated it here , but the Dale Country is so prolific in it s noble Views that a selection of twenty pictures must of pure necessity d o injustice t o the many scenes it omits .

Two - great headlands , formed by the wall like

C o de n H ark e rside terminations of g and Moors ,

on e . rising above the other, stand out magnificently Their huge sides tower up nearly a thousand feet from the river, until they are within reach of the lowering clouds that every moment threaten t o envelop them in their indigo embrace . There is a curious rift in the dark cumulus revealing a thin line of dull carmine that frequently changes its shape and becomes nearly obliterated , but its presence in n o way weakens the awesomeness of the picture . The dale appears to become huger and steeper as the clouds thicken, and what have been merely woods and plantations in this heavy gloom become mysterious forests . The river, too ,

t o seems change its character, and become a pale serpent, uncoiling itself from some mountain fast

n o li ness where ving creatures , besides great auks and carrion birds , dwell . ‘ WHITE CLOTH ID NUNNES ’ 59

In such surroundings as these there were estab lish e d in the Middle Ages two religious houses , within a mile of one another, on Opposite sides of the swirling river. On the north bank, not far

se e from Marrick village , you may still the ruins of Marrick Priory in its beautiful situation much as

Turner painted it a century ago . Leland describes Marrick as a Priory of Blake N u n n e s of the

’ k wa A s e s. s Foundation of the It , we know, an establishment for Benedictine Nuns , founded or endowed by Roger de Aske in the twelfth century .

l of At E lerton , on the other side the river a little lower down, the nunnery was of the Cistercian it s Order ; for, although very little of history has

‘ been discovered , Leland writes of the house as a

’ cl t hid N u n n Priori of White o e s. After the Battle of Bannockburn , when the Scots raided all over the North Riding of Yorkshire , they came along

Swaledale in search of plunder, and we are told that Ellerton suffered from their violence . The ruins that witnessed these scenes remain most

n provokingly silent, and Heaven k ows if they ever echoed t o the cries Of the defenceless nuns or the

of u s coarse laughter the Scots , for the remains tell nothing at all .

t o Where the dale becomes wider, owing the 8—2 60 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

of A rk e n art hdale t wo branch valley g , there are villages close together . Grinton is reached first , and is older than Reeth , which is a short distance north of the river . The parish of Grinton is one of the largest in Yorkshire . It is more than twenty miles long, containing something near acres , and according to Mr . Speight , who has written a

Ri chm on dshire very detailed history of , more than

n of acres of this co sist mountain, grouse

. so moor, and scar For huge a parish the church is suitable in size , but in the upper portions of the dales one must n ot expect any very remarkable exteriors and Grinton , with its low roofs and plain

i s battlemented tower , much like other churches in the neighbourhood . Inside there are suggestions of a Norman building that has passed away, and the bowl of the font seems also t o belong to that

wo period . The t chapels Opening from the chancel contain some interesting features , which include a hagioscope , and both are enclosed by old screens .

Leaving the village behind , and crossing the

t o Swale , you soon come Reeth , which may, perhaps , be described as a little town . It must have thrived with the lead -mines in Arkengarth dale and along the Swale , for it has gone back since the period of its former prosperity, and is IN UPPER SWA LEDA LE 61

glad of the fact that its splendid situation, and the cheerful green which the houses look upon, have

of i made it something a hol day resort, although l it still retains its grayness and its simp icity, both of which may be threatened if a red -roofed hotel

t o were make its appearance , the bare thought of which IS an anxiety to those wh o appreciate the

of soft colours the locality .

n o When Reeth is left behind , there is more of

’ the fine new road which makes travell ing so easy for the eleven miles from Richmond . The surface

n o is , however , by means rough along the nine

t o miles Muker, although the scenery becomes far wilder and more mountainous with every mile . The dale narrows most perceptibly ; the woods become widely separated , and almost entirely dis appear on the southern side and the gaunt moors ,

of t o creeping down the sides the valley, seem threaten the narrow belt of cultivation , that becomes increasingly restricted t o the river margins . Pre cipit ou s limestone scars fringe the browny-green heights in many places , and almost girdle the i summit of Calver H ll, the great bare height that rises a thousand feet above Reeth . The farms and hamlets of these upper parts of Swaledale are of w the same grays , greens , and bro ns as the moors 62 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

and scars that surround them . The stone walls ,

t o that are often high and forbidding, seem

’ suggest the fortifications required for man s fight w n o ith Nature , in which there is encouragement

o for the weak . In the Splendid weather that s often welcomes the mere summer rambler in the upper dales the austerity of the widely scattered farms and Vill ages may seem a little unaccountable but a visit in January would quite remove this

f t of impression, though even in these lo ty par s !

England the worst winter snowstorm has , in quite

n . recent years , been of trifli g inconvenience Bad

n o on winters will , doubt , be experienced again the fe ll s but leaving ou t of the account t h e snow that

t o used bury farms , flocks , roads , and even; the i smaller g lls , in a vast smother of whiteness , there are still the winds that g o shrieking over the desolate is heights , there still the high rainfall, and there are still destructive thunderstorms that bring with them hail of a Size that we seldom encounter in the lower levels . Mr . Lockwood records a remark able storm near Sedbergh in which there were only t three flashes . The first lef senseless on the ground

wh o two brothers were tending sheep , the second kill ed three cows that were sheltering under an oak of , and the third unroofed a large portion a FLOODS AND STORMS IN THE DA LES 63

w barn and split up t o trees . In this case the ordinary conditions of thunderstorms would seem t o have been reversed , the electric discharge taking place from the earth to the clouds ; otherwise , it is hard t o account for such destruction with each

flash .

The great rapidity with which the Swale , or such streams as the Arkle , can produce a devastating flood can scarcely be comprehended by those who have not seen the results of even moderate rain

on storms the fells . When , however, some really wet days have been experienced in the upper parts of the dales , it seems a wonder that the bridges are n ot more Often in jeopardy . Long lines of pale

so t gray clouds , with edges sof that they almost

on coalesce, come pressing each other to the bare

on e heights , and , almost before mass has trans

on fe llside s formed itself into silvery streaks the , there are others pouring down on their emaciated remains .

of Of course , even the highest hills Yorkshire are surpassed in wetness by their Lakeland neigh h ou rs for n is ; whereas Hawes Junctio , which only about seven miles south of Muker, has an average

62 Mi ckl e de n yearly rainfall of about inches , , in

1 3 n Westmoreland , can show 7, and certai spots in 64 Y ORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

200 Cumberland aspire towards inches in a year .

N o t o figures seem exist for Swaledale, but in the lower parts of Wensleydale the rainfall is only half of what has been given for Hawes , which stands at

of ll the head that va ey .

so n ot The weather conditions being severe, it is surprising t o find that n o corn at all is grown in

Swaledale at the present day . Some notes , found

old in an family Bible in Teesdale , are quoted by

. i diffi Mr Joseph Morr s . They show the painful cu lt ie s experienced in the eighteenth century from 1 such entries as 782. I reaped oats for John

’ Hutchinson, when the field was covered with snow , 1 99 1 0 t ! o . and 7 , Nov . . Much corn cut and carry

’ A hard frost .

difficu l Muker, notwithstanding all these climatic

l t o ties , has some c aim picturesqueness , despite the

for fact that its church is better seen at a distance , a close inspection reveals its rather poverty-stricken f . a so o state The squ re tower, typical the dales , l stands well above the weathered roofs of the vi lage , and there are sufficient trees to tone down the severi

t o ties of the stone walls , that are inclined make one

house much like its neighbour, and but for natural surroundings would reduce the hamlets to the same

uniformity. At Muker, however, there is a steep

M U K ER ON A STORMY AFTE RNOON

TH I S a ca V a e t h e a e i t s S m e is typi l ill g of d l s , with i pl are - e re r and re e n - re r squ tow d chu ch its g y g y oofs . Th e on t h e e Ki sdon and one n hill l ft is , is looki g up n a th e narrowe st portio of Sw l e dale .

MOUNTA IN SCENERY 65 bridge and a rushing mountain stream that joins the

. t o Swale just below The road keeps close this beck, and the houses are thus restricted t o on e side of

is the way. There a bright and cheerful appearance

’ inn about the Farmers Arms , the small that stands back a little from the road with a cobbled Space in

ou front . Inside y may find a grandfather clock by

Pratt of Askrigg in Wensleydale , a portrait of Lord

Kitchener, and a good square meal of the ham and

eggs and tea order .

t o Away the south , in the direction of the

Bu t t e rt u bs i s Pass , Stags Fell, feet above the

se a , and something like feet above Muker. i Northwards , and towering over the v llage, is the

Ki sdon isolated mass of Hill, on two sides of which the Swale , now a mountain stream , rushes and boils

n among boulders and ledges of rock . This is o e

of of the finest portions the dale, and , although the road leaves the river and passes round the western

Ki sdon side of , there is a path that goes through

t o the glen, and brings one the road again at

Keld .

Just before you reach Keld, the Swale drops

3 0 Ki sdon t ni feet at Force, and af er a ght of rain there are many other waterfalls t o be seen in this district . These are not to me, however, the chief 9 66 YORKSHIRE DAL ES AND FELLS

of attractions of the head Swaledale, although with ou t the angry waters the gills and narrow ravines that Open from the dale would lose much interest . It is the stern grandeur of the scarred hillsides and the wide mountainous Views from the heights that f I give this part o Yorkshire such a fascination . f

’ ou t o t o of y climb the p Rogan s Seat , you have a huge panorama of desolate country spread out before

o u - y u . The conf sed jumble of blue gray mountains to the north - west is beyond the limits of Yorkshire at last , and in their strong embrace those stern

W l of estmoreland hil s hold the charms Lakeland .

Down below is the hamlet of Keld , perched in an

- almost Swiss fashion on a Sharply falling hillside , and among the surrounding masses of heaving moor are the birthplaces of the dozen becks that supply

of . the headwaters the Swale These nearer hills , ’ l which include High Seat and the Lady s Pil ar, form the watershed of this part of the Yorkshire border ; for on the western slopes are to be found the sources of the river Eden that flows through l the beautiful va ley, which is one of the greatest charms of the Midland route to Scotland .

on e If stays in this mountainous region , there are new and exciting walks available for every day . There are gloomy recesses in the hillsides that INA CCESSIBLE SOLITUDES 67 encourage exploration from the knowledge that

n ot - they are tripper worn, and there are endless heights to be climbed that are equally free from the smallest traces of desecrating mankind . Rare

in acce s flowers , ferns , and mosses flourish in these

l t o sible solitudes , and wil continue do so , on account of the dangers that lurk in their fastnesses , and also from the fact that their value i s nothing t o any but those who are glad t o leave them growing where they are . You can look down into shadowy chasms in the limestone , where underground waters fall splashing with a hollow sound upon black shimmer

l su bt e r ing rocks far below, or, stranger stil , into ran e an pools from which the waters overflow into

Y ou l yet greater depths . can fol ow the mountain streams through wooded ravines , and discover cascades and waterfalls that do n ot appear in any maps , and you may leave them by the rough tracks i that cl mb the hillsides when you , perchance, have a longing for space and the sparkling clearness of the moorland air.

C H A P T E R I V

WE N SLE Y DA LE

TH E approach from Muker to the upper part of Wensleydale is by a mountain road that can

who claim a grandeur which , to those have never explored the dales , might almost seem impossible .

I have called it a road , but it is , perhaps, question able whether this is not too high - sounding a term for a track so invariably covered with large loose

- stones and fu rrowed with water courses . At its highest point the road goes through the Butter tubs Pass , taking the traveller to the edge of the pot -holes that have given their name to this thrilling way through the mountain ridge dividing the Swale from the Ure . Such a lonely and dangerous road should no doubt be avoided at night , but yet I am always grateful for the delays which made me so late that darkness came on when I was at the highest portion of the pass . It was late in September , and 71 72 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

of it was the day the feast at Hawes , which had

t o drawn that small town farmers and their wives , and most , if not all , the young men and maidens within a considerable radius . I made my way slowly up the long ascent from Muker, stumbling frequently on the loose stones and in the water worn runnels that were scarcely Visible inthe dim

of twilight . The huge , bare shoulders the fells began to close in more and more as I climbed .

Sh u n n or it s Towards the west lay Great Fell, vast brown-green mass being sharply defined against the clear evening sky ; while further away t o the north -west there were blue mountains going to

of sleep in the soft mistiness the distance . Then the road made a sudden zigzag, but went on climbing more steeply than ever, until at last I found that the stony track had brought me t o the

f was f verge o a precipice . There not su ficient light to see what dangers lay beneath me , but I could hear the angry sound of a h e ck fall ing upon

of f quantities bare rocks . At the edge o the road the ground curved away in an insidious manner without any protecting bank, and I instinctively

of drew towards the inner side the way, fearing lest a stumble among the stones that still covered the road might precipitate me into the gorge

TWI L IG HT IN TH E BU TTE R-T U BS

T H E Butte r-tubs are some de e p pot -hole s i n th e lime sto ne that lie just by the hig h stony road that g oe s from H aw e s i n We n sle ydale to Muke r i n a e Sw l dale .

74 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

side , and safety can only be found by keeping in the middle of the road .

What must have been the thoughts , I wonder , of the dalesmen who on different occasions had t o go over the pass at night in those still recent times when wraithes and hobs were terrible realities ! In the parts of Yorkshire where any records of the apparitions that used t o enliven the dark nights have been kept , I find that these awesome

on creatures were to be found every moor, and perhaps some day in my reading I shall dis

an of cover account those that haunted this pass . Perhaps a considerate Providence has kept me from the knowledge of the form these spirits

for assume in this particular spot, the reason I

of will recount . I had reached the portion the road where it goes so recklessly along the edge of the precipitous scars , when , far away on the gloomy

- of fell Side ahead me , there glimmered a strange little light that disappeared for a moment and

t was then showed itself again . Soon af erwards it hidden , I supposed by some hollow in the ground . Had I been bred in the dales in the time of ou r w grandfathers , I should have fled ildly from such

an a sight, and probably found early grave in the

B r b A of u t t e t u s. s moist depths one of the it was , IN THE BUTTERTUBS PA SS 75 although quite alone and without any means of defence , I went on steadily, until at last , out of the darkness , I heard a laugh that sounded

t o human enough , and then came me the sound of a heavy cart lumbering slowly over the stones .

The breeze wafted to me a suggestion of tobacco , and in a moment my anxiety had gone . The cart

’ contained two girls , and by the horse s head walked a man, while another followed on horseback . One

r of the men lit his pipe again , and in the momenta y

- flare I could see his big, genial face , the farm horse, d and the two happy maidens . We said Goo

’ ’ t o night prove each other s honesty, and after a

of while the sound the cart died away, as it went f slowly along the windings o the pass . After this I was seldom alone, for I had fallen in with the good

who folks had gone over to the feast at Hawes ,

n and were now homeward bound in the dark ess . Although there are probably few wh o care for

B u t t e rt u b rough moorland roads at night, the s

Pass in daylight is still a memorable place . The

- pot holes can then be safely approached , and one can peer into the blackn ess below until the eyes

t o become adapted the gloom . Then one sees the wet walls of limestone and the cu ri ou sly ~ form e d isolated pieces of rock that almost suggest columnar 1 0—2 76 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

basalt . In crevices far down delicate ferns are growing in the darkness . They shiver as the cool water drips upon them from above , and the drops they throw off fall down lower still into a stream of underground water that has its beginnings no

is man knows where . On a hot day it cooling

B u t t e rt u bs simply to gaze into the , and the sound of the falling waters down in these shadowy places

n - i s pleasa t after gazing on the dry fell sides .

of Just beyond the head the pass , where the

t o of descent Hawes begins , the shoulders Great

Shu n n or l so Fe l drop down , that not only straight

on e se e ahead , but also westwards , can a splendid

’ mountain view . Ingleborough s flat top is con s i cu ou s p in the south , and in every direction there are indications of the geology of the fell s . The hard stratum of millstone grit that rests upon the limestone gives many of the summits of the hills their level character, and forms the sharply de fin e d w scars that encircle them . Lower do n

t o the hills are generally rounded . It used puzzle

. of Dr Whitaker, the historian these parts , how, upon a surface which must at first have consisted of u angles and right lines only, nothing but gracef l curves should now appear, as if some plastic hand had formed the original surface over again for u se

78 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

Such a morni ng as this is quite ideal for seeing the remarkable waterfall known as H ardraw Scar

or Force . The footpath that leads up the glen leaves the road at the side of the Green Dragon

H ardraw n at , where the i nkeeper hands us a key

to open the gate we must pass through . Being

for September, and an uncertain day weather, we

t o have the whole glen ourselves , until behind

some rocks we discover a solitary angler . There is

of nothing but the roughest tracks to follow, for the carefully-made pathway that used t o g o right up t o the fall was swept away half a dozen years

ago , when the stream in a fierce mood cleared its

a fi ali course of any traces of rt i ci t y. We are deeply

ou r grateful , and make way among the big rocks

and across the slippery surfaces of shale, with the roar of the waters becoming more and more

insistent . The sun has turned into the ravine a great searchlight that has lit up the rock walls and k i strewn the wet grass beneath with spar l ng jewels . On the opposite side there is a dense blue shadow over everything except the foliage on the brow of ff the cli s , where the strong autumn colours leap into a flaming glory that transforms the ravine

into an astonishing splendour. A little more

careful scrambling by the side of the stream , and

H ARDRAW FO RC E

TH IS fall of wate r on a tributary of th e Ure is n ra n e r be th e fine i n Y r r g e e lly co sid e d to st o kshi e . T h e a e r me s e r a e r an n r and w t co ov lip of ov h g i g ock , r 80 e e a m d ops she e r into a pool f e t b low . It is ost r man at all m e s e e n at e o tic spot ti , but it is s its b st e r r n a e a e n aft a h e avy ai f ll . It is possibl to w lk b hi d h n e r ra - re n e a t e fall o a slipp y sp y d ch d p th .

A REMARKA BLE WA TERFA LL 79

we see a white band of water falling from the over hanging limestone into the pool about ninety feet ff below . O the surface of the water drifts a mist t of spray, in which a sof patch of rainbow hovers until the su n withdraws itself for a time and leaves a sudden gloom in the horseshoe of overhanging ff . i s cli s The place , perhaps , more in sympathy

n with a cloudy sky, but , under sunshi e or cloud ,

i s the spout of water a memorable sight , and its imposing height places H ardraw among the small

’

of . group England s finest waterfalls Everyone .

li so however, rea zes the disappointment often ex

e rie n ce d p in visiting such sights in dry weather , and the water at H ardraw sometimes shrinks to

t o l a mere trickle , leaving only the rock chasm tel

the traveller what can happen in really wet weather . The beck that takes this prodigious leap rises on

Shu n n or Great Fell , and if that mountain has received the attentions of some low clouds during the night , there is generally a gushing stream of water pouring over the projecting lip of hard lime stone . The shale that lies beneath this stratum is soft enough to be worked away by the water until the limestone overhangs the pool to the extent of

so ten or twelve feet , that the water falls sheer vi into the circular basin , lea ng a space between 80 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS the cliff and the fall where it is safe t o walk on a rather moist and sli ppery path that is constantly being sprayed from the surface of the pool .

h of 1 881 In hard winters , such as t at , the waters

of freeze up into a great mass ice, through which the fall makes its way by keeping an open pipe down the centre . It is recorded that in the winter of 1 73 9-4 0 the fall began t o freeze at the top and bottom , and that it eventually met , making one holl ow column which was seventy - t wo yards and

’ - n three quarters in circumfere ce . A s we turn away from the roar of the waters the su n comes through the clouds once more and illuminates the glen with such a generous light

so that we long to be in the open again , that we may se e all the play Of the sweeping shadows along

of the slopes Wensleydale . As we cross the Ure we have a view of the wet roofs of Hawes shining

- in dazzling light . The modern church tower, with

on e a pinnacle at corner only , stands out con s i cu ou sl p y, but the little town looks uninteresting, although it does n ot spoil the views of the head

. i s of the dale The street wide and long, and would be very dull but for the splendid surround ings which the houses cannot quite shut out . As

for t o we are here pleasure , and not make an

82 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

cover the hillsides with a net of very large mesh , but the sheep find more bent than grass , and the f ground is o ten exceedingly steep . Higher still climbs this venturesome road , until all around us i s a vast tumble of gaunt brown fells , divided by wi ravines whose sides are scarred th runnels of water, which have exposed the rocks and left miniature

of screes down below . At a height nearly feet there is a gate , where we will turn away from the road that goes on past Dodd Fell into Lang st rothdale i , and instead cl mb a smooth grass track sprinkled with half-buried rocks until we have 4 00 reached the summit of Wether Fell , feet

of higher . There is a scanty growth ling upon the top of this height , but the hills that lie about on every side are browny-green or of an ochre

an d of colour, there is little the purple one sees in the Cleveland Hills . The cultivated level of Wensleydale is quite

so hidden from view, that we look over a vast panorama of mountains extending in the west as

as far the blue fells of Lakeland . I have painted the westward view from this very summit , so that any written description is hardly needed ; but

u s behind , as we face the scene illustrated here , there is a wonderful expanse that includes the

A R U G GED V I EW A BOV E WEN S L EYDA LE

T H E picture shows th e mou n tai n s to t h e north -we st We e r Fe e e the e a e r mm Of of th ll f t ) , h th y su it which appe ars i n the fore g roun d H awe s li e s to th e h r i e n th e e e S e t e a e . g ht , hidd by st p id s of d l

A GREA T SNOWSTORM 83

A ddle brou h P e nhil heights of g , Stake Fell , and

Beacon , which stand out boldly on the southern side of Wensleydale . I have seen these hills lightly covered with snow, but that can give scarcely the smallest suggestion of the scene that was witnessed 1 895 after the remarkable snowstorm of January, , which blocked the roads between Wensleydale and

Swaledale until nearly t h e middle of March . Roads were cut out, with walls of snow on either side 1 0 1 5 from to feet in height , but the wind and fresh falls almost obliterated the passages soon after

L an st rot hdale . they had been cut . In g Mr Speight tells of the extraordinary difficulties of the dales

wh o folk in the farms and cottages , were faced with starvation owing to the difficulty of getting a in provisions . They cut w ys through the drifts as high as themselves in the direction of the likeliest

t o l places obtain food , while in Swaledale they bui t

ffi t o sledges . It is di cult imagine such scenes after

h ot a climb on a warm afternoon, even though great white masses of cumulus are lying in serried ridges near the horizon ; but, having seen the Lake District under a thick mantle of snow from l the top of Helvel yn , I have some idea of the scene t in Wensleydale af er that stupendous fall . When we have left the highest part Of Wether 1 1 —2 84 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

Fell , we find the track taking a perfectly straight

i s so line between stone walls . The straightness unusual that there can be little doubt that it is a survival of on e of the Roman ways connecting

on l their station Brough Hi l, just above the Village

- of . Bainbridge , with some place to the south west l The track goes right over Cam Fe l , and is known as the Old Cam Road , but I cannot recommend it W for any but pedestrians . hen we have descended

nl of o y a short distance , there is a sudden view

S e mm e rwat e r , the only piece of water in Yorkshire

t o that really deserves be called a lake . It is a pleasant surprise to discover this placid patch of blue lying among the hills , and partially hidden by a fellside in such a way that its area might be far 1 0 ’ greater than 5 acres . Those who know Turner s

n o painting of this lake would be disappointed ,

saw . doubt , if they it first from this height The picture was made at the edge of the water with the Carlow Stone in the foreground , and over the mountains on the southern Shore appears a sky

l -fi ld li that would make the dul est potato e thril ng .

A short distance lower down , by straying a little from the road , we get a really imposing View of

Bardale , into which the ground falls suddenly from our very feet . Sheep scamper nimbly down their

86 YORKSHIRE DALES AND FELLS

for as poor as himself, the beggar asked something . t o eat as he had done at the other houses . The old folk at once asked him in , and , giving him bread ,

t o milk, and cheese, urged him pass the night under

. in i their roof Then the morn ng, when the old man

t o was about take his departure , came the awful

for doom upon the inhospitable town , the beggar held up his hands , and said

Se mme rwa w t e r , r ise Se me r at e r , sin k !

A nd swa ow t he own all sa e s ou se ll t , v thi h , ’ e re e a e me me a an d n k Wh th y g v t dri .

Of course , the waters obeyed the disguised angel ;

of and , for proof, have we not the existence the

n ot lake , and is there also pointed out an ancient little cottage standing alone at the lower end of the lake ! We lose sight of S e m m e rwat e r behind the ridge that forms one side of the branch dale in which it lies , but in exchange we get beautiful views of the

n l al sweeping contours of We s e yd e . High upon

’ the further side of the valley A sk rigg s gray roofs and pretty church stand ou t against a steep fell

se e side ; further down we can Nappa Hall , sur

ri ve r an d rounded by trees , just above the winding j

t o Bainbridge lies close at hand . We soon come the broad and cheerful green , surrounded by a THE GREEN AT BA INBRIDGE 87 picturesque scattering of old but well preserved cottages ; for Bainbridge has sufficient charms to make it a pleasant inl and resort for holiday times that is quite ideal for those who are content to

a S e mm e r abandon the se . The overflow from l water, which is called the Bain , fi ls the village with its music as it falls over ledges of rock in

r many cascades along one side of the g een . There is a steep bridge , which is conveniently placed for watching the waterfall s ; there are white geese l ll always dri ling on the grass , and there are sti to be seen the upright stones of the stocks . The w ’ i pretty inn called the Rose and Cro n , overlook ng a corner of the green, states upon a board that it

1 4 4 5 n was established in . This date at o e time appeared in raised letters upon a stone over the doorway, which , Mr . Speight tells us , had formerly

’ a good Norman arch . Anyt hing of that period

of would, of course , carry the origin the building back some centuries earlier than the year claimed

of for the establishment the inn . The great age

e t o of the villag , owing its existence in Roman times , as well as the importance it gained through

nl - being not o y situated at important cross roads , but also on the edge of the forest of Wensleydale , would account for the early establishment of some 88 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

sort of hostelry for the entertainment of travellers . Even at the present day a horn-blowing custom

has been preserved at Bainbridge . It takes place at ten o ’clock every night between Holy Rood 2 (September 7) and Shrovetide , but somehow the

reason for the observance has been forgotten . The medieval regulations as to the carrying of horns by foresters and those who passed through forests would undoubtedly associate the custom with early times , and this happy Old village certainly gains our respect for having preserved anything from such a remote period . When we reach Bolton Castle we shall find in the museum there an old horn from Bainbridge . Besides having the length and breadth of Wens leydale t o explore with or without the assistance of the railway, Bainbridge has as its particular pos

S e mm e rwat e r session the valley containing , with the three romantic dales at its head . Counterside, a hamlet perched a little above the lake , has an old

F ox 1 6 hall , where George stayed in 77 as a guest 1 66 of Richard Robinson . The inn bears the date 7 an d the initials B . H . J which may be those of on e of ack son s wh o the J , were Quakers at that time .

On the other side of the river, and scarcely more

90 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

have now reached the river in liquid form , and l are spark ing in the sunshine that now comes ,

without interruption , from their spotless cenotaph .

’ n o We will follow Shelley s metaphor further, for there is water enough everywhere to fil l the dales with all the roarings and murmurings that

the forces and gills can supply, and we would

’ gladly forget the cloud s silent laugh as it begins

t o unbuild the blue dome of heaven . We find ourselves halting on a patch of grass by the restored market -cross to look more closely at a fine old house overlooking the three-sided

o space . There is n doubt as to the date of the

i G u li elm u s building, for a plain inscription beg ns

’ su M X X V Thornton po it hanc dom u m DCL III .

as The bay windows , may be seen in the illustra

tion , have heavy mullions and transoms , and there is a dignity about the house which must have been still more apparent when the surrounding houses

were lower than at present . The wooden gallery

was that is constructed between the bays , it is said , built as a convenient place for watching the

-fi ht bull g s that took place just below . In the grass there can still be seen the stone to which

~ the bull ring was secured . The churchyard runs

- so along the west side of the little market place ,

A JAC O BEA N HOUS E AT A S K RIG G

T H E a e r e r e re e on vill g of Ask ig g , p ch d pictu squ ly t h e n r e rn e We n e a e e e o th slop s of sl yd l , poss ss s this m n n e e r t h e e n a e i posi g sto house . It ov looks op sp c t h e r e re -f a e i n th e by chu ch , wh bull ig hts took pl c e ar ar a e n r Th e r n 1 5 b e e e n ly p t of l st c tu y . i g still to s i n th e a ra s and th e e n a n p tch of g s , wood b lco y be twe e n th e proje cti ng bays of th e house was a f favou rite position or watchi ng th e con te sts .

WENSLEYDALE KNITTING 91

on that there is an open View that side , made interesting by the Perpendicular church . The simple square tower and the unbroken roof- lines

so are battlemented, like many of the churches of the dales ; inside we find Norman pillars that are quite in strange company, if it is true that they were brought from the site of Fors Abbey, a little to the west of the town . The greater part 1 4 66 of the church dates from , and shortly after this reconstruction of the thirt eenth -century build

i t o . ing a chantry in the south aisle , ded cated St

on e of of Anne, was founded by the Metcalfes

t o Nappa Hall, which we shall pass on our way

Aysgarth . Wensleydale generally used to be famed for its

- i hand knitt ng, but I think Askrigg must have turned out more work than any place in the valley, for the men as well as the womenfolk were equally

i n . skilled this employment, and Mr Whaley says they did their work in the open air while gossip ing with their neighbours . This statement is , nevertheless , exceeded by what appears in a

’ of volume entitled The Costume Yorkshire .

1 81 4 n In that work of , which contai s a number

’ of George Walker s quaint drawings , reproduced

n by lithography, we find a picture havi g a strong 1 2—2 92 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS suggestion of Askrigg in which there is a group of old and young of both sexes seated on the steps

- of the market cross , all knitting , and a little way off a shepherd is seen driving some sheep through a gate , and he also is knitting . The letterpress describes how a woman named Slinger, who lived

t o t o in Cotterdale , used walk and from Hawes k Market with her goods on her head , nitting

- steadily all the way . Knitting machines have long l since kil ed this industry, but Askrigg has some

- h ow survived the loss . Grandfather clocks are still made in the little town , as they have been for a great number of years . We have already noticed an old Askrigg clock at Muker, and if we keep our eyes Open we shall come across others , as well as examples from Leyburn , Middleham , and other places in the dale that possessed a clock maker . I t is interesting t o those who wish t o get a correct idea of a place before visiting it t o know that they may easily be led astray by even the best guides . When we read in Murray that

’ l of Askrigg is a dul little town gray houses , we are at once predisposed against the place , although we might know that all the houses in the dales are

N o gray . suggestion is given of the splendid situa

94 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

From Askrigg there is a road that climbs up from the end of the little street at a gradient that

1 4 . looks like in , but it is really less formidable

Considering its steepness the surface is quite good , but that i s due t o the industry of a certain road mender with whom I once had the privilege t o t alk when, hot and breathless , I paused to enjoy

was the great expanse that lay t o the south . He a fine Saxon type , with a sunburnt face and equally

- brown arms . Road making had been his ideal

bo when he was a mere y, and since he had obtained

’ his desire he told me that he couldn t be happier if f he were the King o England . And his content ment seemed t o me t o be based largely upon his intense pleasure in bringing the roads t o as great a perfection as his careful and thinking labour could compass . He did n ot approve of steam rollers , for his experience had taught him that if the stones were broken small enough they bound

. dis together quickly enough Besides this , he approved of a great camber or curve on the road

t o which induces the traffic keep in the middle ,

of on leaving a mass loose stones either side . The result of his work may be seen on the highway

t o from Askrigg Bainbridge , where a conspicuous smoothness h as come t o a road that was recently MILL GILL FORCE 95

one of the most in different in the district . Perhaps he may eventuall y be given the maintenance of the way over the Bu tt e rt u bs Pass ; and if he ever induces that road to become a little more civilized , this enthusiastic workman will gain the appreciation of the whole neighbourhood . The road where we leave him , breaking every large

of stone he can find , goes on across a belt brown moor, and then drops down between gaunt scars that only just leave space for the winding t rack t o pass through . It afterwards descends rapidly by l the side of a gil , and thus enters Swaledale . There is a beautiful walk from Askrigg to Mill ll Gi Force . The distance is scarcely more than half a mile across sloping pastures and through the curious stiles that appear in the stone wall s . So dense is the growth of trees in the little ravine that one hears the sound of the waters close at hand without seeing anything but the profusion of foliage overhanging and growing among the rocks . After climbing down among the moist ferns and

- w moss gro n stones , the gushing cascades appear suddenly set in a frame of such lavish beauty that they hold a high place among their rivals in the dale , and the particular charms of this spot are hardly surpassed by any others in the whole 96 YORKSHIRE DA LE S AND FELLS

county. Higher up there is Whitfield Force , f 50 i has l o . t oo which a fal nearly feet Its sett ng, , among great rock walls and an ancient forest growth , is most fascinating, especially when one finds that very few g o beyond the greater falls below .

of Keeping to the north side the river, we come t o Nappa Hall at a distance of a little over a mile

n ow to the east of Askrigg. It is a farmhouse, but its t wo battlemented towers proclaim it s former importance as the chief seat of the family

of 1 4 59 of . Metcalfe The date the house is about , and the walls of the western tower are 4 feet in

n t o thick ess . The Nappa lands came James Metcalfe from Sir Richard Scrope of Bolton Castle shortly after his return t o England from

of was the field Agincourt, and it probably this

wh o James Metcalfe built the existing house . We are told something about the matter by Leland , wh o ! If n a e YOTICS/l i Te n ow chife st says pp y in , the

M etecal es T/zomas House of the f , was boute by one

M etcal e James M etecal e of on e f , Sunne to f , of the

’ S cr o s B l on Lordes p e of o ton . He also says that

C ot a e or on t ille it was but a g litle better House,

Thomas l this began ther to bui d , in the which

2 L o Building Toures be very fair, beside other g

98 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

Station , and just where the lane takes a sharp bend t o the right a footpath goes across a smooth

meadow to the banks of the Ure . The rainfall of

the last few days , which showed itself at Mill Gill

H ardraw Force, at Scar, and a dozen other falls , has been sufficient to swell the main stream at

Wensleydale into a considerable flood , and behind the bushes that grow thickly along the river- side we can hear the steady roar of the cascades of

Aysgarth . The waters have worn down the rocky bottom to such an extent that in order t o stand in full View of the splendid fall we must make for a l gap in the foliage , and scramb e down some natural steps in the wall of rock forming low cli ff s along f ll each side o the flood . Although it is sti

September, the rocks are overhung with the most

l nl bril iant autumn foliage . The morning su ight coming across a dark plantation of firs on the

southern bank lights up the yellow and red leaves , and turns the foaming waters into a brilliant white where they are not under the shadow of the trees .

The water comes over three terraces of solid stone, and then sweeps across wide ledges in a tempestuous se a an d of waves froth , until there come other descents which alter the course of parts of the stream , so that as we look across the riotous flood we can

A YSGA RTH FORCE

T H E be autiful rive r Ure that flows throug h We nsle y dale falls ove r a se rie s of rocky le dg e s close to th e V a e r Th e re t h e e r ill g of Aysg a th . pictu shows low se r e a n the m rn n n a we t n i s of f lls o o i g followi g ig ht .

A YSGA RTH FORCE 99

se e the waters flowing in many Opposite directions . Lines of cream coloured foam spread out into

chains of bubbles which join together, and then ,

becoming detached , again float across the smooth i portions of each low terrace . Where the water s smooth and shaded by the overhangi ng mass of

- trees it assumes a dark green brown colour, and shows up the chains and necklaces of Sport ive

bubbles which the cascades produce . I suppose it was because Leland did not se e the other great falls in Wensleydale that he omits any mention of

H ardraw High Force on the Tees and Scar, but yet mentions where Ur e Ryve r fau lle t he very

’ 2 okk depe betwixt scarry R s.

l se e if o Besides these lower fal s , we can , we g

of t h e up the course river towards Aysgarth , a

single cascade called the Middle Force , and from the bridge which Spans the river with on e great arch we have a convenient place t o watch the f l highest series o fal s . But neither of these have half the grandeur of the lowest of the series which l is illustrated here . There is a large mil by the bridge , and , ascending the steep roadway that goes up to the village , we soon reach the pathway to the church . Perhaps because Aysgarth Force is famous enough t o attract large crowds of sightseers 1 3 —2 1 00 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS on n certai days throughout the summer, the church

se e is kept locked , and as we wish to the splendid

Perpendicular screen , saved from the wreck of

e rvau lx J Abbey, we must make our way to the

Vicarage , and enter the church in the company of

wh o a custodian watches us with suspicious eyes ,

n o fearing, doubt, that if he looks away or waits in the churchyard we may feel anxious to leave ou r on - initials the reading desk . Apart from the

of screen , the choir stalls , and the other woodwork the choir, there is very little interest in the church

t o n owing the rebuildi g that has taken place , and left few traces of antiquity beyond suggestions of Early English work in the tower . There is a short-cut by some footpaths that brings us t o

i t o Aysgarth v llage , which seems altogether dis

for is regard the church , it separated from it by

is a distance of nearly half a mile . There one pleasant little street of old stone houses irregularly

of n disposed , many them bei g quite picturesque, with mossy roofs and ancient chimneys . This village, like Askrigg and Bainbridge, is ideally situated as a centre for explorin g a very consider

a able district . There is quite network of roads to

of the south , connecting the villages Thoralby and

West Burton with Bishop Dale , and the main road

1 02 YORKSHIRE DA LE S A ND FELLS

lane, and then the silence becomes more complete

- t than before, and the fells become blue black agains a sky which is just begi nn ing t o be spangled with

t o so the palest of stars . They seem flicker much that the soft evening breeze threatens to blow them out altogether .

The dale narrows up at its highest point , but the road is enclosed between gray walls the whole of the way over the head of the valley . A wide View of L ang st rot hdale and upper Wharfedale is visible

t o t o when the road begins drop downwards , and the east Buckden Pike towers up to his imposing

of se e height feet . We shall him again when

ou r we make way through Wharfedale, but we could g o back t o Wensleydale by a mountain -path that climbs up the side of Cam Gill Beck from

S t arbot t om , and then, crossing the ridge between

Buckden Pike and Tor Mere Top , it goes down into the wild recesses of Walde n dale . So remote is this valley that wild animals , long extinct in i other parts of the dales , surv ved there until almost recent times .

When we have crossed the Ure again , and taken d a last look at the Upper Fall from Aysgarth Bri ge, we betake ourselves by a footpath t o the main highway through Wensleydale , turning aside before A LETTER FROM MA RY Q UEEN OF SCOTS 1 03 reaching Redmire in order to se e the great castle of the Scropes at Bolton . It is a vast quadrangular

w as mass , ith each side nearly gaunt and as lofty as the others . At each corner rises a great square tower, pierced, with a few exceptions , by the smallest of windows . Only the base of the tower at the

- - north east corner remains to day, the upper part

l on e 1 61 having fal en stormy night in November, 7 , possibly having been weakened during the siege of

a i the castle in the Civil W r . We go nto the court

a yard through vaulted archway on the eastern side . Many of the rooms on the side facing u s are in good

- preservation, and an apartment in the south west tower, which has a fireplace , is pointed out as having been used by Mary Queen of Scots when sh e was 1 5 imprisoned here after the Battle of Langside in 68. It was the ninth Lord Scrope wh o had the custody of the Queen, and he was assisted by Sir Francis

n o Knollys . Mary, doubt , found the time of her

m a nifi imprisonment irksome enough , despite the g cent views over the dale which her win dows appear to have commanded but the monotony was relieved to some extent by the lessons in Engli sh which she

sh e received from Sir Francis , whom describes as ’ l ll her good schoolmaster . Whi e sti a prisoner,

Mary addressed to him her first English letter, 1 04 YORKSHIRE DAL ES AND FELLS

! ‘ Kn ole is su m which begins Mester , I heve neus from Scotland and half-way through sh e begs

l w sh e that he wil excuse her riting, seeing that had

’ ’ ‘ ‘ n e u u r vse d h e st e t . it afor, and was The letter

afft e r concludes with thus , my commendations , I

h e u u ou ki in prey God y in his p . Your assured

’ frin d MA R E . ! gud , I R Then comes a postscript

’ E x cu s my iu e l writ in thes furst tym in el

’ being no doubt intended for evil .

’ Another relic of the Queen s captivity at Bolton

of sh e was a pane glass , upon which had scratched

’ Marie R . with a diamond ring ; but it was damaged during the execution of some repairs t o the castle , and in removing the glass for greater security from the castle t o Bolton Hall it was hopelessly smashed . The stories of Mary’s attempts at escape have

for long been considered mere fabrications , , despite many intimate detail s of the months spent at

n o t o Bolton , reference such matters have been

of on discovered . In the face this denial the part of recorded history, Leyburn Shawl still holds affectionately to the story that Mary Stuart did

sh e leave the castle unobserved, and that was overtaken there in the place called the Queen ’s

Gap .

B LT CASTLE E S LE DALE O ON , W N Y

I N this fe udal stronghold Mary Q ue e n of Scots was m n f r i x m n i n 68 S h e was r i priso e d o s o ths 1 5 . b oug ht r m C arli sle L r r e t h e n e r B n f o by o d Sc op , ow of olto T h e u n rm a a n are C a e . stl b ildi g fo s g u t squ , lofty and a m e a re e e x e for th e r e n e r l ost f tu l ss , c pt b ok tow s t e a t he r rne r L r which rise a ch of fou co s . o d C hance llor Scrope built th e castle i n th e re ig n of R n n r ar . an d e e a e for e e ich d II , his d sc d ts occupi d it th e c nturie s .

1 06 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

n o doubt , what would happen to him if the dreaded

t o saw invasion were really come about , , far away

of across the Vale Mowbray, a light which he at once took to be the beacon upon Roseberry Topping . A moment later tongues of flame and smoke were

own pouring from his hilltop , and the news spread up the dale like wildfire . The volunteers armed themselves rapidly, and with drums beating they

as marched away, with only such delay was caused

- by the hurried leave takings with wives and mothers ,

con and all the rest who crowded round . The

t o on tingent took the road Thirsk, and the way

Masham shir W were joined by the e men . hether it was with relief or disappoin tment I do n ot know ; but when the volunteers reached Thirsk they heard

ou t that they had been called by a false alarm , for the light seen in the direction of Roseberry Topping

on had been caused by accident, and the beacon

n ot that height had been lit . After all, the scare

for of did no harm , it showed the mettle the f Dalesmen, and they were a terwards thanked by Parliament for their prompt response to the signal . On the Side of Penhill that looks full towards Bolton Castle there still remain the foundations of

of the chapel the Knight Templars , who must have WENSLEY VILLA GE 1 07

t 1 1 4 6 established their hospital there soon af er ,

a when the Order w s instituted in England . e Wensley stands just at the point wh re the dale ,

so to which it has given its name , becomes wide that it begins t o lose it s distinctive character. The village is most picturesque and secluded , and it is small enough t o cause some wonder as t o its dis ll tinction in naming the va ey . It is suggested that

Woden sla the name is derived from g , and that in

’ the time of the N ort hm e n s occupation of these parts the place named after their chief god would be the most important . In its possession of a pleasant Sloping green, dominated by a great elm, round whose base has been built a circular platform ,

Wensley is particularly happy . The Ure , flowing close at hand , is crossed by a fine old bridge, whose pointed arches must have survived many centuries

' ‘ A lwzn e for Leland says that it was built by ,

’ ’ Wen celaw 200 a o Parson of , Yer g and more , 1 53 that statement being made about the year 8. In the little church standing on the south side of the green there is so much to interest us that we are almost unable t o decide what to examine

first, until, realizing that we are brought face to

ul face with a beautif relic of Easby Abbey, we turn ou r attention t o the parclose screen . It sur 1 4—2 1 08 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

of rounds the family pew Bolton Hall , and on three sides we see the Perpendicular woodwork f fitted into the east end o the north aisle . The side that fronts the nave has an entirely different

n appearance , bei g painted and of a classic order, very

i n lacking any ecclesiastical flavour, an impression

on l not lost those who , with every excuse , cal ed it

’ ‘ b x the opera o . In the panels of the early part of the screen are carved inscriptions and arms of the Scropes covering a long period, and , though many words and letters are missing, it is possible to make them more complete with the help of the 1 665 record made by the heralds in . On the floor of the chancel is the brass t o Sir

We n selawe Simon de , a priest of the fourteenth

n o of century . There is trace any inscription, and the name was only discovered by a reference to the

l who brass in the wi l of Oswald Dykes , a rector died in Jacobean times , and desired that he might be buried under the stone which now bears his

r name above the figure of the p iest . This brass s is the best in the North Riding, and it clo ely resembles the on e t o Abbot de la Mare in St . Albans

Abbey .

A charming lane , overhung by big trees , runs above the river-banks for nearly two miles of the

1 1 0 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

’ I I I s son Richard . only , Edward Prince of Wales , was 1 4 6 born here in 7 , the property having come into Richard ’s possession by his marriage with i Anne Nev lle . The tower in which the boy was

- born is pointed out to day, but how the knowledge has t a been preserved I am quite unable o s y.

When he was only eight years old , this little Prince died in the castle in which he had first seen the light . The efforts t o blow up the projecting towers of the Norman portion of the castle are most plainl y visible , but the splendid masonry, like that of Corfe ,

of in the Isle Purbeck , has held together, although

r ou t so on e g eat gaps have been torn below, that can scarcely understand why the upper part has not collapsed . The church contains some interesting

n ot t o details , but they are very apparent the unin formed , to whom the building might appear some A ll what dull . can , however, be interested in the old - i cross in the market place , and also in the Sw ne

Cross in the upper market, which shows the battered

of shape of some animal, carved either in the form

or of . the boar of Richard III . the bear Warwick We have already seen Leyburn Shawl from near l Wensley, but its charm can on y be appreciated by seeing the view up the dale from its larch -crowned

T H E V IEW U P W EN S LEYDAL E FROM L EYBU RN S HA WL

TH IS is one of th e spots i n this be autiful dale that re a Th e e ffe are e on p ys a visit a thousandfold . cts b st a e ar da e n n an d a are chasm cl y, wh su lig ht sh dows g n o e anoth e r ove r th e hills and woodlan ds .

THE VIEW FROM LEYBURN SHAWL 1 1 1

of termination . Perhaps if we had seen nothing ff Wensleydale, and the wonderful Views it o ers , we should be more inclined to regard this somewhat popular spot with greater veneration ; but after

vi ha ng explored both sides of the dale, and seen

of many views a very Similar character, we cannot help thinking that the vista is somewhat over

is u l rated . Leyburn itself a cheerf l ittle town , with a modern church and a very wide main street

- which forms a most extensive market place . There

- is a bull ring still visible in the great open space , but beyond this and the View from the Shawl

Leyburn has few attractions, except its position as a centre or a starting-place from which t o explore the romantic neighbourhood . As we leave Leyburn we get a most beautifu l

Wh e rn sid s View up Coverdale , with the two e standing ou t most conspicuously at t h e head of the valley, and it is this last View of Coverdale , and the great valley from which it branches , that remains in the mind as one of the finest pictures of this most f remarkable portion o Yorkshire .

CHAPTER V

RIPON A N D F OUN TA I N S A B BE Y

WE have come ou t of Wensleydale past the ruins

of e r vau lx of the great Cistercian abbey J , which

r Conan , Earl of Richmond , moved from Ask igg t o k a indlier climate , and we have passed through the

of quiet little town Masham , famous for its fair in

September, when sometimes as many as

of fin e W sheep , including great numbers the ensley dale breed , are sold , and now we are at Ripon . It is the largest town we have seen since we lost sight of Richmond in the wooded recesses of Swale dale , and though we are still close to the Ure , we are on the very edge of the dale country, and miss the fells that lie a little to the west . The evening

t o has settled down steady rain, and the market place is running with water that reflects the lights in the shop -wi ndows and the dark outline of the obelisk in the centre . This erection is suspiciously

’ called the Cross , and it made its appearance nearly 1 1 5 1 5—2 1 1 6 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

seventy years before the one at Richmond . Gent £564 1 1 d 8. 9 on e says it cost . , and that it is of the

’

. n o w finest in England I could , doubt , ith the smallest trouble discover a description of the real t cross it supplanted , but if it were any hing half as

fin e as the one at Richmond , I should merely be

sa of A islabi e was moved to y harsh things John , who 1 702 Mayor in , when the obelisk was erected , and therefore I will leave the matter to others . It is ,

u m- o perhaps , an Christian occupation to g about the country quarrelling with the deeds of recent genera

u tions , though I am always gratef l for any traces of the centuries that have gone which have been

t o allowed survive . With this thought still before

- - me , I am startled by a long drawn out blast on a

ou t horn , and , looking of my window, which com

- mands the whole of the market place , I can see beneath the light of a lamp an old -fashioned figure

- wearing a three cornered hat . When the last quavering note has come from the great circular horn , the man walks slowly across the wet cobble stones to the obelisk , where I watch him wind another blast just like the first , and then another , f and then a third , immediately a ter which he walks briskly away and disappears down a turning . In the li ght of morning I discover that the horn was

1 1 8 YORKSHIRE DA LE S AND FELLS

t o all it possible find anything better, the periods

being very clearly represented . The choir has

much sumptuous carved woodwork, and the

misereres are full of quaint detail . In the library there is a collection of very early prin ted books and other relics of the minster that add very

t o of greatly the interest the place .

who The monument to Hugh Ripley, was the last

W of 1 604 akeman Ripon and first Mayor in , is on the north side of the nave facing the entrance t o the

’ ’ crypt, popularly called St . Wilfrid s Needle . A rather difficult fli ght of steps goes down t o a narrow l passage leading into a cylindrical y v—aulted cell with niches in the walls . At the north east corner

’ is the curious slit or Needle that has been thought t o for of have been used purposes trial by ordeal, the innocent person being able to squeeze through the narrow opening. In reality it is probably nothing more than an arrangement for lighting

i s of two cells with one lamp . The crypt such

i s so t o a plainly Roman type , and similar the one at Hexham , that it is generally accepted as dating

of from the early days Christianity in Yorkshire , and there can be little doubt that it is a relic of

’ Wilfrid s church in those early times .

At a very convenient distance from Ripon, and

RI PON MI N STE R FROM T H E S OU TH

I N n e R n e We m n e r a its outli ipo sug g sts st i st , lthoug h th e we st fron t With its twin tow e rs is Early E nglish U n e rne a h r n n an d n ot classic . d th t e p e se t buildi g ’ is th e Sax on crypt of Wilfrid s church dati ng from th se e n e n r e v th c tu y .

THE GLA DES OF STUDLEY ROYA L 1 1 9

approached by a pleasant lane , are the lovely

glades of Studley Royal , the noble park containing

the ruins of Fountains Abbey. The surroundings of the great Cistercian monastery are so magni

fice n t so , and the roofless church is impressively

solemn , that, although the place is Visited by many

thousands every year, yet, if you choose a day when the weather or some other circumstances i i keep other people away, you might eas ly imag ne that you were visiting the park and ruins as a

who special privilege , and not as one of the public ,

’ through Lord Ripon s kindness , are allowed to come and go with very few restrictions beyond

the payment of a shilling . Just after leaving the lodge there appears on

the right a most seductive glade , overhung by some of the remarkable trees that give the park i its great fascination . The grassy slopes d sappear in shadowy green recesses in the foliage, in much the fashion of the forest scenes depicted in tapes

r tries . It is just such a backg ound as the Eliza be t h an s would have loved to fill with the myt h o logi cal beings that figured so largely in their poli te l - conversation . Down below the beautifu ly kept

l so pathway runs the Skel , but transformed from its early character that you would imagi ne the 1 20 YORKSHIRE DAL ES AND FELLS crescent-shaped lakes and the strip of smooth water were in n o way connected with the moun

- tain stream that comes off D all owgill Moor . It i s particularly charmin g that the peeps of the water, bordered by smooth turf that occupies the

of l nl bottom the steep and narrow val ey, are o y had at intervals through a great hedge of clipped - d yew. The paths wind round the densely woo ed

f i of slopes , and give a dozen dif erent V ews each

of mass of trees , each temple, and each bend the

. ou river At last, from a considerable height, y have the lovely view of the abbey ruins illustrated here . At every season its charm is unmistakable, and even if n o stately tower and n o roofless arches

filled the centre of the prospect, the scene would l be almost as memorable . It is on y one of the many pictures in the park that a retentive memory

i l as of w l hold some the most remarkable in England . Among the ruins the turf is kept in perfect is t order, and it pleasant merely o look upon the contrast of the green carpet that is so evenly laid

- between the dark stonework . The late Norman

in of nave, with its solemn double l e round columns , the extremely graceful arches of the Chapel of the

Nine Altars , and the magnificent vaulted per s e ctive of ce llariu m - p the dark of the lay brothers ,

KNARE SBOROU G H AND HARROGATE

1 26 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS great a blot upon the scene that Knaresborough would have lost half its charm . Strangely enough , we find just the reverse is the case , for this rail way bridge , with its battlemented parapets and

SO massive piers , is now weathered that it has melted into its surroundin gs as though it had come into existence as long ag o as the oldest d building Visible . The ol Knaresborough kept

t o i well the heights adjoin ng the castle , and even t o- day there are only a handful of later buildings down by the river margin . The View, therefore , is still unspoiled, and its appearance when the light is coming from the west can be seen in the illustration given here .

When we have crossed the bridge , and have passed along a narrow roadway perched well above

t o on e of n the river, we come the many i teresting houses that help t o keep alive the old -world flavour f ld o the town . Onl y a few years ago the o manor house had a most picturesque and rather remarkable

for exterior, its plaster walls were covered with a

- large black and white chequer work, and its over hanging eaves and trailing creepers gave it a charm

re st ora that has since then been quite lost . The tion which recently took place has entirely altered

of n n the char acter the exterior, but i side everythi g

KN ARES BO ROU G H

I S one of th e most fortunate of tow ns i n h avi ng in its railway bridg e a bold and de co rative fe ature rath e r an r T h e ran e r ar e re a ze as than e ye so e . st g sc c ly li s h e stands on th e road bridg e from which th e picture a e n a t h e bi a e me n e s r re ann n is t k , th t g b ttl t d t uctu sp i g th r IS ra a a e rive a ilw y vi duct .

OLIVE R CROMWELL AT KNARESBOROUGH 1 27 has been preserved with just the care that should have been expended outside as well . There are oak - oak wainscoted parlours , dressers , and richly

- carved fireplaces in the low ceiled rooms , each one contain ing fu rniture much of the period of the house . Upstairs there is a beautiful old bedroom

w oak lined ith , like those on the floor below, and its interest i s greatly enhanced by the story of

’ Oliver Cromwell s residence in the house , for he is believed t o have used this particular bedroom .

oak Slight alterations have taken place , but the bedstead which he is said to have occupied, minus its tester and with its posts cut down to half their

r height, still remains to car y us swiftly back to the last siege of the castle . A very curious story is

’ l man M a azi n 1 1 G en t e s e 9 . told in the g of March , 7 It gives an anecdote of Oliver Cromwell which

Sir John Goodricke used to relate . When he was

old quite a small boy, he was told by a very woman who had formerly attended his mother, Lady

h ow Goodricke , Oliver Cromwell came to lodge

she at this house when was but a young girl .

’ so sh e Having heard much talk about the man , said , I looked at him with wonder. Being ordered t o his take a pan of coals and air bed, I could not , during the Operation, forbear peeping over my 1 28 YORKSHIRE DA LE S AND FELLS

Shoulder several times t o observe this extraordi nary

who of person , was seated at the fireside the room

his . v untying garters Ha ing aired the bed , I went

ou t , and , shutting the door after me, stopped and

saw peeped through the keyhole, when I him rise

his t o on from feet, advance the bed and fall his

f for . knees , in which attitude I le t him some time i When I returned again I found him st ll at prayer, and this was his custom every night so long as he

ou r stayed at house, from which I concluded he must be a good man, and this opinion I always f I maintained a terwards , though heard him very

’ n much blamed and exceedi gly abused . Higher up the hill stands the church with a square central tower surmounted by a small spike . It still bears the marks of the fire made by the Scots during their disastrous descent upon York

’

I . shire after Edward I s defeat at Bannockburn .

e Led by Sir Jam s Douglas , the Scots poured into the prosperous plains and even the dales of York shire . They burned Northallerton and Borough

t o . bridge , and then came on Knaresborough

When the town had been captured and burnt, the savage invaders endeavoured t o burn ou t the in habitants who had taken refuge in the church tower, but the stoutness of the stone walls pre

1 3 0 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

on e - away . On side of the market place stands a

’ most curious little chemist s shop , with two small

n low paned wi dows , very and picturesque, that

t o slightly overhang the footway . There seems be small doubt that this is the Oldest of all the long

’ established chemists shops that exist in England . 1 20 It dates from the year 7 , when John Beckwith

of started the business, and the conservatism the trade is borne ou t by the preservation of some interesting survivals of those early Georgian days .

- old - There are strangely shaped shop bottles , mortars , and strips of leather that were used for quicksilver in the days when it was worn as a charm against some forms of disease . Just above the manor-house there is still t o be

on e of seen of the last the thatched houses , at d one time common in the town . It is the ol

Vicarage , and it still contains oak beams and some good panell ing . When we get beyond the market

ou t place , we come upon an elevated grassy space upon the t op of a great mass of rock whose per

e n di cu lar t o p sides drop down a bend of the Nidd . Around us are scattered the ruins of Knaresborough — Castle poor and of small account if we compare w them ith Richmond , although the site is very similar ; where before the siege in 1 64 4 there must AN UNDERGROUND SALLY-PORT 1 3 1 have been a most imposing mass of towers and curtain walls . Of the great keep , only the lowest

first - floor story is at all complete, for above the there are only two sides to the tower, and these are battered and dishevell ed . The walls enclosed about

n ow the same area as Richmond , but they are so greatly destroyed that it is not easy to gain a clear idea of their position . There were no less than

of eleven towers , which there now remain frag

six ments of , part of a gateway, and behind the old courthouse there are evidences of a secret cell .

- An underground sally port opening into the moat, which was a dry one , is reached by steps leading from the castle yard . The passage was opened out 1 890 in , and in it were discovered a considerable

for number of stone balls , probably used the

on e balistas mentioned in of the castle records . is It a dismal fact to remember that , despite the

of perfect repair the castle in the reign of Elizabeth , and the comparatively small amoun t of destruction caused during the siege conducted by Lilburne and

’ Fairfax , Knaresborough s great fortress was reduced to piles of ruin s as the result of an order of the t Council of State not many years af er its capture .

as d Subsequently, in the case of such splen id ’ a ll structures as Richard I . s Ch teau Gai ard , the 1 7—2 1 3 2 YORKSHIRE DAL ES AND FELLS broken remains were cheap building stone for the

archm townsfolk, and seeing that in those days

t o ological societies had yet be instituted , who can blame the townsfolk ! Lord Lytton gives a story of the siege that we

so may recall, seeing that there is little to vividly bring t o mind the scene during the strenuous defence of the castle by the plucky townsfolk .

’ A youth , we are told, whose father was in the

t o garrison, was accustomed nightly get into the

ro deep, dry moat , climb up the glacis , and put p visions through a hole where the father stood ready

o t receive them . He was perceived at length ; the

’ soldiers fired on him . The poor lad was made

t o prisoner, and sentenced be hanged in quite medieval fashion within sight of the garrison .

wh o There was , however, a certain lady , with great difficulty, prevented this barbarous order from being

ou t carried , and when the castle had capitulated

bo was and the soldiers had left the y released .

The keep is in the Decorated style , and appears t o of have been built in the reign Edward II .

Below the ground is a vaulted dungeon, dark and

is nl horrible in its hopeless strength , which o y emphasized by the tiny air-hole that lets in scarcely

l of a glimmering of ight, but reveals a thickness

1 3 4 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

n o t o - in its an als , than g down the tripper worn

Dropping Well and the Mother Shipton Inn . When we have determined to se e what these

’ ‘ t o ff fin d sights have o er, we that the inn is a fairly picturesque one, but with scarcely a quarter

’ of the interest of the old chemist s shop we saw in

- the market place . The walk along the river bank among a fine growth of beeches is pleasant enough , and would be enjoyable if it were n ot for the fact

f r that it leads to a sight which has to be paid o . Under the overhanging edge of the limestone crag hang a row of eccentric objects constantly under the drippin g water that trickles down the face of

is the rock, which itself formed entirely by the petrifying action of the spring some yards away w from the river . The ater being strongly charged with lime, everything within its reach , including

f of the row o curiosities in course manufacture,

l t o are coated over and final y reduced limestone , the process taking about t wo years . When we have come away from the well we feel we have

t o seen all the Sights we are equal , and gladly

’ t o leave St . Robert s Chapel and the other caves be seen at some more convenient season . The story of Eugene Aram and the murder of Daniel Clark is a page in the history of Knaresborough HA RROGATE 1 3 5

that may perhaps add interest to the town , but it is certainly likely t o rob the place of some of its

so t o charm , without wasting any time on a visit the cave where the murdered man ’s body was

on t o . buried , we go out the road Harrogate

The distance between the towns is short, and soon after passing Starbeck we come to Harrogate ’s extensive common known as the Stray . We follow

t o the grassy space , when it takes a sharp turn the north , and are soon in the centre of the great

- watering place . Among the buildings that rise up in imposing masses on each side of us we can se e

of of no traces anything that is not recent date, and we find nothing at all t o suggest that the place really belongs to Yorkshire . Walking or being pulled in bath - chairs along the carefully- made paths are all sorts and conditions of invalids , and interspersed among them are numbers

f wh o o people , if they have any ailments curable

by the waters , are either in very advanced stages of convalescence or are extremely expert in hiding

- any traces of ill health . There is one spot in Harrogate that h as a su g

of gestion of the early days the town . It is down in the corner where the valley gardens almost join

the extremity of the Stray. There we fin d the 1 3 6 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS Royal Pump Room that made its appearance in early Victorian times , and its circular counter is still crowded every morning by a throng of water drinkers . We wander through the hilly streets and gaze at the pretentious hotels , the baths , the huge Kursaal, the hydropathic establishments , the smart shops , and the many churches , and then ,

n di havi g seen enough of the buil ngs , we find a seat supported by green serpents , from which to watch

-b - wi the passers y. A white haired and thered man , having the stamp of a mili tary life in his still erect

t wo bearing, paces slowly by ; then come elaborately

-fiv dressed men of perhaps twenty e . They wear brown suits and patent boots , and their bowler hats

of are pressed down on the backs their heads . Then nursemaids with perambulators pass , followed by

who a lady in expensive garments , talks volubly t o her two pretty daughters . When we have tired of the pavements and the people , we bid farewell

r to them without much regret , being in a mood fo simplicity and solitude , and go away towards Wharfedale with the pleasant tune that a band was playing still to remind us for a time of the scenes we have left behind .

C HAPTER VII

WH A RFE DA LE

OTLE Y is the first place we come t o in the long and beautiful valley of the Wharfe . It is a busy little town where printing machinery is manu I m fact u re d and worsted mills appear t o thrive . mediately t o the south rises the steep ridge known as the Chevin . It answers the same purpose as Leyburn Shawl in giving a g reat view over the 900 dale ; the elevation of over feet , being much greater than the Shawl, of course commands a far more extensive panorama, and thus , in clear

on weather, York Minster appears the eastern horizon and the Ingleton Fells on the west .

of Farnley Hall, on the north side the Wharfe , 1 581 is an Elizabethan house dating from , and it

’ i s still further of in terest on account of Turner s

n of frequent visits , coveri g a great number years , and for the very fine collection of his paintings

- preserved there . The oak panell ing and coeval 1 39 1 8—2 1 40 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

furniture are particularly good , and among the historical relics there i s a remarkable memento of Marston Moor in the sword that Cromwell carried

during the battle . A few miles higher up the dale stands the big

’ hydropathic , and the station of Ben Rhydding.

who The name sounds very Scottish , and the man started the establishment came from beyond the

Border . He found that the site he had selected was marked in the Ordnance maps as a bean rhyd

’ or so t o ding, fallow land, he decided drop the a

’ in bean, and in that way get a good Scottish flavour

n ow e into the name , and its origin is being quit

nl forgotten . O y a short distance beyond is the

of k considerable town Il ley, where hotels and vast

hydropathic establishments flourish exceedingly, and vill as are constantly adding t o the size of

of nl 500 the place, which had a population o y

l - a o . has l half a century g Ilk ey an old wel house ,

’ where the water s purity is its chief attraction . The church contains a thirteenth -century effigy of dl Sir Andrew de Mid eton, and also three pre

t o Norman crosses wi thout arms . On the heights l the south of Ilk ey is Rumbles Moor, and from the

C ow and Calf rocks there is a very fin e view . Ilkley is particularly well situated for walks up

1 42 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS The great east window of the choir has lost its tracery, and the Decorated windows at the sides are in the same vacant state , with the exception of the one that appears in the ill ustration gi ven

t o here . It is blocked up half its height, like

on those the north side , but the flamboyant tracery f o the head is perfect and very graceful . Lower down there is some late -Norman interlaced aread ing resting on carved corbels . There is something singularly attractive in the views of the woods that overhang the river when we see them framed by the great stone arches and

of fluted piers . We can hear the rich notes a

of blackbird , and the gentle rush the river where it washes the stony beach close at hand , and there is present that wonderful silence that broods over ruined monasteries . From the abbey we can take our way by various beautiful paths to the exceedingly rich

of scenery of Bolton woods . Some the reaches of the Wharfe through this deep and heavily timbered part of its course are really enchanting, and not even the kn owledge that excursion parties frequently traverse the paths can rob the Views of their charm . It is always possible, by taking a

t o little trouble , choose occasions for seeing these

BO LTON ABBEY WHARFEDAL E

FRO M u nde r the arche s of the ce n tral towe r one is n e r th e r e th e r e r W ar e looki g out ov cou s of iv h f . T h e abbe y was founde d i n th e twe lfth ce n tury for m n th r r n e o ks of e O d e of St . Aug usti

BARDEN TOWER 1 43 beautiful but very popular places when they are unspoiled by the sights and sounds of holiday makers , and in the autumn , when the woods have

-of li an almost undreamed bril ance , the walks and drives are generally left t o the birds and the rabbits .

- At the Strid the river, except in flood times , is con

fined to a deep channel through the rocks , in i s places scarcely more than a yard in width . It one of those spots that accumulate stories and legends of the in dividuals wh o have lost their lives , or saved them , by endeavouring to leap the narrow channel . That several people have been

n for drowned here is pai fully true , the temptation to try the seemingly easy but very risky jump is more than many can resist .

Higher up , the river is crossed by the three arches of Barden Bridge , a fine old structure bearing the inscription ! This bridge was repayr e d at the charge of the whole West R To the south of the bridge stands the picturesque

Tudor house called Barden Tower, which was at

’ one time a keeper s lodge in the manorial forest of

nl Wharfedale . It was e arged by the tenth Lord Clifford —the Shepherd Lord whose strange life - story is mentioned in the next chapter in connection with Skipton —but having become 1 44 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

in 1 658 in de fat i ruinous , it was repaired by that g

of able restorer the family castles , the Lady Anne

Cli fford . At this point there is a road across the moors to

t o Pateley Bridge, in Nidderdale , and if we wish e xplore that valley, which is now partially filled with a lake formed by the damming of the N idd ’ — for Bradford s water supply, we must leave the

Wharfe at Barden . If we keep t o the more beautiful dale we go on through the pretty Village

t o of Burnsall Grassington , where a branch railway has recently made it s appearance from

Skipton . The dale from this point appears more and more wild , and the fells become gaunt and bare ,

n with scars often fringing the heights o either side .

We keep to the east side of the river, and soon

L itt on dale i u after having a good view up , a beaut f l branch valley, we come to Kettlewell . This tidy and cheerful village stands at the foot of Great Wh e rn

n side , one of the twi fells that we saw overlooking the head of Coverdale when we were at Middle ham . Its comfortable little inns make Kettlewell a very fine centre for rambles in the wild dales that

run up towards the head of Wharfedale . Buckden is a small village situated at the

H U BBERH O L ME C HU RCH

I one th e a n e i n Y r i re has rman s of qu i t st o ksh . It No

e a re a e e fl r m t h e r e e n e n r . f tu s , but d t s chi y f o thi t th c tu y Th e S ituation on t h e ban ks of t h e Wharfe in Lan g str thdale a o Chase is most be utiful .

1 46 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS of Ski rfare the dale flows the , and we follow it past

of t o ff the gray old Village Litton down Arncli e , where there is a nice inn by such a pleasant green that we are tempted to stay there rather than hurry on t o Skipton . S K M M A N D G IPTON , ALHA ORDALE

1 9 2

1 50 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS are on the castle ramparts the factories appear much

—i n t o less formidable fact, they seem shrink into quite a small area owing t o the great bare hills

on that rise up all sides .

On this sunny morning, as we make our way

of towards the castle, we find the attractive side Skipton entirely unspoiled by any false impression given by the factories . The smoke which the chimneys make appears in the form of a thin white mist against the brown moors beyond , and every thing is very clean and very bright after heavy

t wo rain . The gateway of the castle is flanked by squat towers . They are circular and battlemented , and between them upon a parapet , which is higher

of than the towers themselves , appears the motto

ff D e sorm ai s f the Cli ords , (herea ter) , in open stone letters . Beyond the gateway stands a great mass of buildings with t wo large round towers just in front ; to the right, across a Sloping lawn , appears the more modern and inhabited portion of the castle . The squat round towers gain all our atten tion, but as we pass through the doorways into the

for courtyard beyond , we are scarcely prepared the astonishingly beautiful quadrangle that awaits us .

i s It small, and the centre is occupied by a great

- - t o yew tree, whose tall, purply red trunk goes up

T H E C OU RTYA RD O F S K I PTON CASTLE

T H E n i r n t h e a e a buildi g s of th s po tio of c stl , lthoug h i n s re e r a n are not e . uch g ood p s v tio , occupi d

SKIPTON CA STLE 1 51 the level of the roofs without any branches or even twigs , but at that height it spreads out freely into a feathery canopy of dark green , covering almost the whole of the square of sky visible from the courtyard . The base of the trunk is surrounded by a massive stone seat , with plain shields on each side . The sunlight that comes through this green network is very much subdued when it falls upon walls and the pavement , which becomes strewn over with circular splashes of whiteness . The

of masonry the walls on every side , where not

of showing the original red the sandstone , has been weathered into beautiful emerald tints , and t o a height of t wo or three feet there is a consider

of on able growth moss the worn mouldings . The general appearance of the courtyard suggests more

- that of a manor house than a castle, the windows and doorways being purely Tudor . The circular towers and other portions of the walls belong to the time of Edward II . , and there is also a round headed door that cannot be later than the time

’ l e of of Robert de Romil , one the Conqueror s followers . The rooms that overlook the shady quadrangle are very much decayed and entirely

- unoccupied . They include an old dining hall of

an d much picturesqueness . kitchens , pantries , 1 52 YORKSHI RE DA LES AND FELLS

of butteries , some them only lighted by narrow windows on the outer faces of the wall . There are many large bedrooms and other dark apart ments in the towers . Only a little restoration would be required t o put a great portion of these into habitable condition, for they are structurally

of in a good state repair, as may be seen to some extent from the picture of the courtyard repro du d ce here . The destruction caused during the siege which took place during the Civil War might have brought Skipton Castle t o much the same condition as Knaresborough but for the wealth and energy of that remarkable woman Lady Anne f 1 589. Clif ord , who was born here in She was i i the only surv v ng child of George , the third Earl of of Cumberland , and grew up under the care her

of of mother, Margaret, Countess Cumberland , whom Lady Anne used to speak as ‘ my blessed

’ of mother . Her reverence for the memory this admirable parent is also shown in the feeling which prompted her to put up a pillar by the roadside ,

r t o between Pen ith and Appleby, commemorate their last meeting, and, besides this , the Lady Anne left a su m of money to be given t o the poor at that spot on a certain day every year .

After her first marriage with Richard Sackville ,

1 54 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

655 1 . and under them the year Besides , she raised up a noble Tomb of Black Marble in

’ memory of her Warlike Father. This magnificent altar- tomb still stands within the Communion rails on the south side of the chancel . It is adorned with seventeen shields , and Whitaker doubted whether so great an assemblage of noble bearings can be found on the tomb of any other English

’ a man . This third Earl was notable figure in

h for the reign of Elizabeth , and aving a time been a great favourite with the Queen , he received

f sh e t many o the posts of honour loved o bestow.

He was a skilful and daring sailor, helping to defeat

own the Spanish Armada, and building at his expense on e of the greatest fighting Ships of his

—wh o time , Elizabeth , like the present German

Emperor, never lost an opportunity of fostering — the growth of her navy being present at the launching ceremony . The memorials of Lady Anne give a description of her appearance in the manner of that time !

’ ’ The colour of her eyes was black like her Father s ,

‘ w a we are told , ith a pe k of hair on her forehead , and a dimple in her chin , like her father. The hair of her head was brown and very thick, and so long that it reached t o the calf of her legs when BLOODY CLIFFORD 1 55 sh e stood upright ; and when sh e caused these memorials of herself to be written (she had passed

63 of sh e the ei ecti on s the year her age) , said p f of her min d wer e mu ch above those of he r body sh e had a strong and copious memory, a sound

i so judgment, and a discerning sp rit, and much of a strong imagination in her as that at many times even her dreams and apprehensions beforehand

’ proved true . The Countess died at the great age of eighty-seven at Brougham Castle in West

was f o . moreland , and buried in the Church St

Lawrence at Appleby . We cannot leave these old towers of Skipton

t o Castle without going back the days of John , ff ff the ninth Lord Cli ord , that Bloody Cli ord who was on e of the leaders of the Lancastrians at Wakefield , where his merciless slaughter earned

‘ ’ him the title of the Butcher. He died by a chance arrow the night before the Battle of

so t o of Towton, fatal the cause Lancaster, and Lady Clifford and the children took refuge in

’ her father s castle at Brough . For greater safety

of Henry, the heir, was placed under the care a shepherd whose wife had nursed the boy’s mother

when a child . In this way the future baron grew

up as an entirely uneducated Shepherd lad, spending 20—2 1 56 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS his days on the fells in the primitive fashion of the peasants of the fifteenth century . When he was

old ff about twelve years Lady Cli ord , hearing rumours that the whereabouts of her children had become known , sent the shepherd and his wife with the boy into an extremely inaccessible part i of Cumberland . He rema ned there until his

r - of thi ty second year, when the Battle Bosworth

V I . placed Henry I . on the throne Then the

t o shepherd lord was brought Londesborough , and when the family estates had been restored , he

t o went back Skipton Castle . The strangeness

Of t o ff his new life being irksome him , Lord Cli ord spent most of his time in Barden Forest at one

’ of for the keeper s lodges , which he adapted his w o n u se . There he hunted and studied astronomy and astrology with the canons of Bolton . At Flodden Field he led the men -at -arms from

Craven, and showed that by his life of extreme simplicity he had in n o way diminished the traditional valour of the Cliffords . When he died they buried him at Bolton Abbey, where many of f his ancestors lay , and as his successor died a ter

of the dissolution the monasteries , the Shepherd Lord ’ was the last to be buried in that secluded spot by the Wharfe .

1 58 YORKSHIRE DAL ES AND FELLS

from the year of the Great Fire of London .

Turning to the north , we come to Kirby Malham ,

t w of less than o miles f. It is a pretty little village with green limestone hills rising on all sides ; a rushing beck coming off Kirby Fell takes its way

old past the church, and there is an Vicarage as well as some picturesque cottages .

ou r t o - We find way a decayed lych gate, whose

- stones are very black and moss grown , and then get a close view of the Perpendicular church .

is on The interior full of interest, not only account of the Norman font and the canopied niches in the l of . pil ars the nave, but also for the old pews The Malham people seemingly found great delight in recording their names on the woodwork of the

for l pews , careful y carved initials and dates appear A ll very frequently . the pews have been cut down t o the accepted height of the present day with the exception of some on the north side which were occupied by the more important families , and these still retain their squareness and the high balus trades above the panelled lower portions . One of the parish registers has the rare distinction

’ of containing Oliver Cromwell s signature t o a

of marriage . There is also the entry the baptism on 1 61 9 November 7, , of John Lambert , who GORDA LE SCAR 1 59 became famous as Major- General in the Round head army . Just under the moorland heights surrounding

Malham Tarn is the other village of Malham . It w is a charming spot , even in the gloom of a intry

t n of u n af er oon . The houses look on to a strip

r . even green , cut in two , lengthways , by the Ai e We g o across the clear and sparkling waters by a rough stone footbridge , and , making our way past a farm , find ourselves in a few minutes at Gordale

. i Bridge Here we abandon the sw tchback lane , i and , climbing a wall , beg n to make our way along the side of the beck . The fells drop down fairly i sharply on each side , and in the failing l ght there

l u seems no object in fol owing the stream any f rther, when quite suddenl y the green slope on the right stands out from a scarred wall of rock beyond , and when we are abreast of the opening we find our selves before a vast fissure that leads right into the

S - heart of the fell . The great split is shaped in

so n plan, that when we advance into its yaw ing mouth we are surrounded by limestone cliffs more 3 00 than feet high . If one visits Gordale Scar for the first time alone on a gloomy evening, as I have l done , I can promise the most thril ing sensations t o those who have yet to see this astonishing sight . 1 60 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

It almost appeared t o me as though I were

dreaming, and that I was Aladin approaching

’ of the magi cian s palace . I had read some the — ’ eighteenth century writer s descriptions of the place , and imagined that their vivid accounts of the terror inspir ed by the overhanging rocks were mere exaggerations , but now I sympathize with every

so word . The scars overhang much on the east side that there is n ot much Space t o get ou t of reach of the water that drips from every portion . Great masses of stone were lying upon the bright

of strip turf, and among them I noticed some that could not have been there long ; this made me keep close under the cliff in justifiable fear of

n another fall . I stared with apprehension at o e ll rock that would not only ki , but completely bury,

old anyone upon whom it fell , and I thought those writers had underrated the horrors of the place . Through a natural arch in the rocks that faced me came a foaming torrent broken up below into a series of cascades , and the roar of the waters in the confined space added much t o the fear that was taking possession of me . It was owing t o the curious habit that waterfall s have of seeming t o become suddenl y louder that I must own t o that

of u for sense fearf lness , at one moment the noise

GORDAL E SCA R TH I S is one of th e most aston ishi ng S ig hts i n Yo—rk T h r e r t h r n F shi re . e g o g is a e sult of e C ave ault a g e olog ical dislocatio n that h as also made t h e hug e

f Ma am C e T he re am 18 t h e re . cli fs of lh ov . st Ai It can b e se e n comi ng throug h a natural arch hig h up am n the r o g ocks .

1 62 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS said t o have taken refuge on one of these pre carious ledges , and finding his way stopped in front ,

t o so he tried turn , and in doing fell and was killed . At the base of the perpendicular face of the cliff the Aire flows from a very slightly arched l recess in the rock . It is a rea ly remarkable stream é in making its d but without the slightest fuss , for it is large enough at its very birth to be called a small river. Its modesty is a great loss to

for of Yorkshire , if, instead gathering strength in

t o the hidden places in the limestone fells , it were

t o t o keep more rational methods , it would flow the edge of the Cove , and there precipitate itself in

is majestic fashion into a great pool below . There some reason for believing that on certain occasions in the past the stream has taken the more showy f course , and if su ficient cement could be introduced

of l into some the larger fissures above , a fal might be induced to occur after every period of heavy rain . All the romance would perhaps disappear if ff we knew that the e ect was artificial , and therefore we would no doubt be wiser to remain content with the Cove as it is . S ETTLE AND THE ING LETON F ELL S

21 2

1 66 YORKSHIRE DALES AN D FELLS

With the swin ging lantern throwing vast shadows of own my figure upon the mist, and the stony road t d under my feet, I at leng h ropped down the steep

n o descent into Settle , having seen human being on the road since I left Kirby Malham . Even Settle was almost as lonely, for I had nearly reached a building called The Folly, which is near the middle of the town , before I met the first inhabitant . In the morni ng I discovered that The Folly was the most notable house in the town, for its long I L stone front dates from the time of Charles , and it is a very fine example of the most elaborate treat ment of a house of that size and period t o be found

has in the Craven district . Settle a most distinctive

of Castle be r li feature in the possession g , a steep me l at t o stone hi l, densely wooded except the very p ,

- that rises sharply just behind the market place . Before the trees were planted there seems to have

of ll re ci i been a sundial on the side the hi , the p p

N o tous scar on the t op forming the gnomon . one remembers this curious feature , although a print showing the numbers fixed upon the Slope was i 1 8 - publ shed in 77 . The market place has lost its curious old tolbooth , and in its place stands a town e is hall of good Tudor design . D parted also much of the charm of the old Shambles that occupy a

S ETTLE

TH IS g re y old tow n i n Ribble sdal e is one of th e a n e i n ar Y r re qu i t st this p t of o kshi .

GIGGLESWICK 1 67

central position in the square . The lower story, with big arches forming a sort of piazza in front of

’ the butcher s and other shops , still remains in its old state , but the upper portion has been restored in the fullest sense of that comprehensive term . In the steep street that we came down on enter ing the town there may still be seen a curious old tower, which seems to have forgotten its original

of purpose . Some the houses have carved stone lintels t o their doorways and seventeenth -century dates , while the stone figure on The Naked Man 1 663 Inn, although bearing the date , must be very

of much older, the year rebuilding being probably di in cated rather than the date of the figure. The Ribble divides Settle from its former parish w 1 83 8 church at Giggles ick, and until the towns folk had to go over the bridge and along a short lane to the village which held it s church . Settle

v ha ing been formed into a separate parish, the parish clerk of the ancient vill age no longer has the fees for funerals and marriages . Although able t o

of share the church , the two places had stocks their own for a great many years . At Settle they have been taken from the market square and placed in

- of the court house, and at Giggleswick one the first thin gs we se e on entering the village is one of 1 68 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS the stone posts of the stocks stan ding by the steps of the market cross . This cross has a very well preserved head , and it makes the foreground of a very pretty picture as we look at the battlemented tower of the church through the stone - roofed lich gate grown over with i vy. The history of this fine old of church , dedicated , like that Middleham , to

A lk e lda . St , has been written by Mr Thomas

who old Brayshaw , knows every detail of the

‘ building from the chalice inscribed >I< TH E C OM

M V N I ON cv r r BE L O N G I N G E T O TH E PA RI SH E

O F I Y G G E L SWI C KE MA DE I N A N o 1 585 t o the inverted Norman capitals n ow forming the bases of the pillars . The tower and the arcades

1 4 00 of date from about , and the rest the structure 1 00 i s about years older . The Black Horse Inn has still two niches for l of smal figures saints , that proclaim its ecclesiastical connections in early times . It is said that in the days when it was on e of the duties of the churchwardens t o se e that no on e was drin king there during the hours of ser vice the inspection

t o t o used last up just the end Of the sermon , and that when the custom was abolished the church ffi o cials regretted it exceedingly . Giggleswick is also the proud possessor of a school founded in

1 70 YORKSHIRE DA LES AN D FELLS

dr so common in this neighbourhood . In very y or very wet weather the well remains inactive , but when there is a medium supply of water the level of the water is constantly changing. Giggles

i s n o for wick Tarn longer in existence, it has been drained , and the site is occupied by pastures . The

fin e very British canoe , discovered when the drain

ih age operations were progress , is now preserved in the Leeds Museum . The road that goes northward from Settle keeps close to the Midland Railway, which here forces its way right through the Dale Country , under the

of - — very shoulders Pen y ghent, and within sight

fla of the t top of Ingleborough . The greater part

of of this country is composed limestone, form ing bare hillsides honeycombed with underground

- waters and pot holes , which Often lead down into the most astonishing caverns . In Ingleborough itself there is Gaping Gill Hole, a vast fissure nearly 3 50 feet deep . It was only partially ex

lore d M 1 895 p by M . artel in . Ingleborough Cave penetrates into the mountain to a distance of

of nearly feet, and is one of the best these limestone caverns for its stalactite forma tions . Guides take visitors from the Village of Clapham t o the inmost recesses and chambers A MONG THE INGLETON FELLS 1 71 that branch out of the small portion discovered 1 8 in 3 7. The fell s contain so many fissures and curious

of n waterfalls that drop into abysses black ess , that it would take an infin ite time to adequately de

a scribe even portion of them . The scenery is wild and gaunt, and is much the same as the moors

in at the head Of Swaledale , described an earlier

I n chapter. every direction there are opportunities for splendid mountain walks , and if the tracks are followed the danger of hidden pot—holes is com l parat i ve y small . From the summit of Ingle borough , and , indeed , from most of the fells that reach feet , there are magnificent views across the brown fells , broken up with horizontal lines

B owfe ll Wh e rn formed by the bare rocky scars . ,

Shu n n or side , Great Fell , High Seat , and a dozen other heights , dominate the lower and greener

t o country, and the west, where the mountains

r d op down towards Morecambe Bay, one looks all over the country watered by the Lune and the

t wo Kent , the rivers that flow from the seaward

Side of these lofty watersheds .

22 2

1 74 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

u t on 1 9 o e rda e 1 1 1 1 4 4 B x , C v l , , ron Lord 48 C ow an d a o ks um e s By , , C lf R c , R bl oor 1 4 0 M , a e r 61 ra oe 1 5 C lv Hill, C c , 7 Cam e 84 Cra dal e 85 F ll, g , e k 1 02 ra e n au t t h e 1 61 Gill B c , C v F l , , an t e rbur at th e w ut t on d st r t 1 4 9 1 66 C y, M H , i ic , , r hb sh o of 53 me n of 1 56 A c i p , , ar ow t on e Se mme rwat e r 84 r om e O e r 1 27 1 28 1 29 C l S , , C w ll, liv , , , , ar e r 9 1 40 1 58 C p by, 7 , Cast lebe r e tt e 1 66 umbe r an d 37 1 56 g S l , C l , , at he r ne ue e n w dow of e or e th rd Ear C i , Q , i G g , i l n r V f 1 52 1 54 e . 36 o H y , , , Cat t e r k 3 2 ar are t ou n t ess ic , M g , C

h ar e s I . 1 29 of 1 52 C l , ,

II . t me of 1 66 u m r an s 4 , i , C b i Hill , hat e au a l ar d 1 3 1 C G i l , ’ h e m st s sh O old at Kn are s Da e sme n 74 1 06 C i p, , l , , borou h 1 30 Dall ow ill oor 1 20 g , g M , h e n The 1 39 Dan sh o u at on of York sh re C vi , , i p p l i i , h r st an t e ar i n Yor sh re 40 C i i i y, ly, k i , 1 1 8 De u r h e r o 1 33 B g , S l , st e r an ab e s 1 1 5 1 1 9 De la ar e bbot 1 08 Ci ci b y , , M , A , u n s at E e rt on 59 De orate d ot h e r od 23 29 N ll , c G ic P i , , , W ar t h e of h ar e s I . 39 1 09 1 32 1 42 Civil , , C l , , , , 1 03 1 27 1 29 1 52 1 53 1 58 D amon d u e e the of ueen , , , , , i J bil , , Q a h am 1 0 t or a 1 69 Cl p , 7 Vic i , ark Dan e 1 3 4 D sso ut on of th e onaste r es Cl , i l, i l i M i , k 2 2 1 21 ar son . 23 24 5 6 Cl , C , , , e e an d s 82 Dodd e 81 82 89 1 4 5 Cl v l Hill , F ll, , , , f ord am of 1 50 1 56 Dom e sda ook 3 2 Cli f , f ily , , y B , th e n nth Lor d 1 55 Dom ron t orm an d 33 i , f , N y, Lad 1 55 1 56 Dor se t h ard a k e Ear of y, , , Ric S c vill , l , th e t e nt h Lord 1 4 1 55 1 52 1 53 , 3 , , , 1 56 D ou as Si r ame s 1 28 gl , J , t h e Lad n n e 1 44 1 52 D own h o me 56 57 y A , , l , , 1 55 oor 55 M , o k -mak n i n We ns e da e 65 D ro n we Knares orou h Cl c i g l y l , ppi g ll, b g , 25 92 1 , 1 34 Co de n oor 58 Due rle e k 81 g M , y B c , omm on e a th t me of 1 9 D u r ham 1 4 3 8 53 C w l , i , , , , on an fi th Ear of h mond D k e s Os a d 1 08 C , f l Ric , y , w l , 29 30 1 2 1 1 , , 3 , 3 , 34 , 5 on e rs arms of 23 43 Ear En sh e r od of oth C y , , , , ly gli , p i G ic, or e ast e Dor se t sh r e 1 1 0 1 1 7 1 4 1 C f C l , i , , or n a k of i n da e s 64 81 Easb bbe 40-43 51 1 05 1 07 C , l c , l , , y A y, , , , ot t e rda e 92 bb n an dflow n we at e s C l , E i g i g ll Gig gl ou nte rs de 88 k 1 69 C i , wic , INDEX 1 75

Ede n e r 66 e sw k Tar n 1 69 , Riv , Giggl ic ,

d ar d II . 1 28 e k a e da e 4 7 E w , Gill B c (Sw l l ) , r e n of 1 32 1 51 n 33 3 4 ig , , Gilli g, ,

I I I . r e n of 3 5 3 ast a e n t ak e of 33 , ig , , 7 E , w p , W f I V . 1 09 e st a e n tak e o 3 3 , w p , r n e of Wa e s on son Gilli n sh i r e 33 P i c l , ly g ,

of h ard II I . 1 1 0 a a o h s 5 77 Ric , Gl ci l Ep c , , Ed n Ear 30 33 an e or Glan vile Ran dul h wi , l, , Gl vill , p e r e k k t on 1 5 de 3 5 Ell B c (S ip ) , 7 , e r ton 59 oodr ke Si r oh n 1 27 Ell , G ic , J , E zabe th uee n 53 1 54 orda e r d e 1 59 li , Q , , G l B i g , re n of 1 3 1 ar 1 59 1 60 1 61 ig , , Sc , , , 1 54 Gormi re Th rs 85 ( i k) , Eu e n e ram 1 34 ran d at h e r - o k s 65 92 g A , G f cl c , , rass n t on 1 4 4 1 57 G i g , , a r a Th omas Lord 1 3 1 ra r hb sh o Wa t e r 1 1 7 F i f x, , , G y, A c i p l , a a se orman d 33 re at e n t ra a a 8 F l i , N y, G C l R ilw y, Fan t osme or dan h ron e of orth e rn a a 8 , J , c icl , N R ilw y, 3 4 re at Sh un n or e 72 76 9 G F ll, , , 7 , armh ou se the of t he orth 1 71 F , , N d n 1 01 re at Wh e rn side 1 1 1 1 44 Ri i g, G , , arn e a 1 39 r e fr ars hmon d 25 26 28 F l y H ll, G y i , Ric , , , ‘ ’ e on Sow of oke b The 26 r ff n be rt 28 F l R y, , , G i i , Gil , 2 28 r nt on 60 7, G i , e n e s st on e 6 u ds t rade at hmon d 37 F c , , G il , , Ric , , it z- u h arms of 23 38 F H g , , tz-Ra n do h obe rt Fi — lp , R , itz Ra n u l h Ra dul h 28 Hardraw ar or or e 5 77 F , p , Sc ( F c ) , , , Flash F l 1 5 8 9 80 98 99 y e 7 7 , 7 , , , odde n e d 1 56 H ark e rside oor 58 Fl Fi l , M , or s bbe e rvau l x 91 arr o at e 1 9 1 29 1 3 5 1 3 6 F A y (J ) H g , , , , oun ta n s bbe 4 1 1 1 9 1 21 1 4 1 H aw e k Sk t on 1 49 F i A y, , , , B c , ip , e 1 45 awe s 5 9 64 72 75 76 77 F ll , H , , , , , , , , Fox e or e 88 80 89 92 93 1 45 , G g , , , , , r an s ans at hmon d 25 26 awe s un t on 63 F ci c Ric , , , H J c i , 28 eath e r on t he e s 5 H f ll , e e n 83 H lv lly ,

a n o e 1 0 e n r I I . 3 4 G pi g Gill H l , 7 H y ,

Gau nt oh n of 3 6 III . r e n of 43 , J , , ig , w a e 81 . ath e r n e do of 3 6 G yl , V C i wi ,

e n t Th omas 1 1 6 . a of 1 09 G , , VI , pl y , ’ l m a i n T 1 2 VI I . 36 1 56 Gen t e an s M gaz e , he, 7 , Ge o o 4 5 76 77 re n of 26 l gy, , , ig ,

W I . r e n of 1 8 42 e rman Em e r or am II . II G p , illi , V , ig , , 1 1 1 1 44 e tt on 1 57 , H , e rman O e an 1 66 e ham 1 1 8 G c , H x , e s k 1 6 1 68 1 69 h e at 66 1 71 Giggl wic , 7, , Hig S , , h oo 1 68 1 69 obs an d wra th e s 74 Sc l, , H i , 1 76 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

’ o ood e e mbe r ust om Lad s ar 66 H ly R (S pt c y Pill , omm e n n at 88 Lak e D st r t 4 63 66 82 83 c ci g , i ic , , , , , orn b o e r th e of on 1 1 6 Lambe rt Ma or e n e ra oh n H l w , , Rip , , j G l J , orse e ad oor 1 4 5 1 58 1 59 H H M , , ouse s farms of t h e orth d n Lan ash re 3 6 H ( ) N Ri i g, c i , 1 01 Lan ast r an s 1 55 c i , Hu bbe rh olme 1 45 Lan s de att e of 1 03 , g i , B l , u ds e 55 Lan st roth dale 82 83 1 02 1 45 H w ll, g , , , , ‘ ’ ut h n son oh n 64 Lass of hmond l Th e H c i , J , Ric Hil , , ut t on at th e w r h sh o of a ad of 36 H , M , A c bi p b ll , Yor k 52 Le ad m ne s 60 i , utt on atth e w r h sh o of Le e ds u se um 1 70 H , M , A c bi p M , an t e rbu r 53 Le an d oh n 1 8 22 24 26 33 C y l , J , , , , , , ut t on a ta n at th e 53 59 81 97 99 H , C p i M w , , , Le bu r n 1 3 55 5 92 1 04 1 09 y , , , 7, , , , I ce a t on 5 c i , k e 1 40 Le bu rn h aw 1 04 1 1 0 1 1 1 Il l y, y S l, , , I n e bor ou h 3 76 1 70 1 1 L bu r n e of romwe l an ar m gl g , , , , 7 il , C l i y, a e 1 0 1 3 1 C v , 7 I n e t on e s t h e 1 39 1 70 1 71 L n r o th of on th e falls gl F ll , , , , i g, g w , , r sh Se a 1 66 82 I i , L tt on 1 4 6 i , a k son am of oun t e rs de 88 Li t t on dal e 5 1 44 1 45 J c f ily C i , , , ,

T G . R . A . 1 69 Lon de sbor ou h 1 56 . , , g , e r vaul x b e 1 00 1 1 5 Lu n e e r 1 1 J A b y, , Riv , 7 oh n of aun t 3 6 L t t on Lord 1 32 J G , y , , wi Se G w k Jyggels ck e . e iggle s ic a h am 1 59 1 65 M l , , Ke d 65 66 o e 1 61 1 62 1 65 l , , C v , , , Ke n t e r 1 71 Tarn 1 59 Riv , , Ke tt e e 1 44 ar e bbot de la rass of 1 08 l w ll, M , A , b , K r e 1 58 arr k 59 i by F ll, M ic , a h am 1 58 1 65 1 66 r or 59 M l , , , P i y, Kisdon or e 65 arsk e 51 52 55 F c , M , , , 65 e k 52 54 Hill, B c , , K t h e n h ar d 1 57 a 52 53 54 i c , Ric , H ll, , , K t h e n e r Lor d 65 obe sk at 53 54 i c , , li , ,

Kn a e 96. Se e a a a arst on oor att e of 1 4 0 pp y, N pp H ll M M , B l , Kn ar sbor ou h 1 25-1 3 5 a M 1 0 e rt e . g , M l, , 7 ast e 1 30-1 33 ar ue e n of ot s 97 1 03 C l , , M y Q Sc , , 1 52 0 1 4 , 1 05 an or ouse ash am 3 8 1 1 5 M H , M , , 1 26 1 30 Mash amsh i r e V o unt e e rs 1 06 , l , Kn h t Te m ars h a e of 1 06 e r a 34 ig pl , c p l , , M ci , 1 0 et a e am 9] 96 9 7 M c lf f ily, , 7 Kn tt n i n We ns e da e 91 92 am e s 96 i i g l y l , J , Kn o s Si r ran s 1 03 Th omas 96 lly , F ci , , 1 04 M i ckle de n, 63

1 78 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

hmond ast e 1 5 29-37 39 omans at hmon d 40 Ric C l , , , , R Ric , 4 2 1 30 1 3 1 n e ar e tt e 1 69 , , S l , wa k 1 9 om e obe rt de 1 51 l , R ill , R , ur e w-be 1 8 ose be r r To n 1 06 c f ll, R y ppi g, Ear s of 1 8 29 3 1 umb e s oor 1 4 0 l , , , , R l M , 32 3 5 3 6 1 09 1 1 5 u sk n oh n 1 4 1 , , , , R i , J , at e s an d wa s 21 st one 1 5 g ll , Ryl , 7 22 24 ba adof th e Wh te Doe , ll i o Tr n t hur h of 1 5 H ly i i y C c , , 7 1 7 33 Fe 1 5 , ll, 7 ’ K n s e ad ot e i g H H l, 1 7 a k e h ard Ear of Dorse t S c vill , Ric , l , mark e t - a e 1 6 1 9 pl c , , , 21 22 30 an de rson r or o ert 25 , , S , P i R b , ma - o e 24 a on re ma n s a of at h y p l , S x i , l ck , Ric a or and or or at on mon d 33 M y C p i , of 1 5 24 50 or re orman rosses , , , p N c , obe sk 1 6 23 1 40 li , , old r oss t h e 23 24 arborou h 39 c , , , Sc g , or 24 arth k 1 05 pill y, Sc Nic , a u e s at 37 Scoll an d Lord of e da e 32 pl g , , B l , ’ u r a De an e r of 3 8 Scoll an ds a hmon d ast e R l y , H ll, Ric C l , Trade u ds of 3 38 32 G il , 7, wh n - ost 24 ot s de e at of at n w 3 5 ippi g p , Sc , f , Al ick , ‘ ’ Richmondsh ire st or of b ra ds of th e 3 6 37 59 , Hi y , y i , , , ,

. e h t 1 28 H Sp ig , ‘ 60 9 ott Si r Wa t e r ba l ad of Th e , 7 Sc , l , l ’ me n of 3 5 e on Sow of oke b 26 , F l R y, e au A be 4 1 ro e arms of 23 1 08 Ri v lx b y, Sc p , , , e u h of on 1 1 8 am of 42 43 96 1 03 Ripl y, H g , Rip , f ily , , , , , on 4 1 9 1 1 5-1 1 8 1 5 Rip , , 7, , 7 Lord 1 1 9 h ard Lord of o t on Ric , B l , n st e r 1 1 1 1 8 1 05 Mi , 7, s n of th e orth th e 1 5 Si r e nr le 42 Ri i g N , , 7 H y , oad-mak n 94 Si r W am l e 42 R i g, illi , oa d on st a e of hmon d n n th Lord 1 03 R l , C bl Ric i , ast e 42 t ombs 4 2 C l , , ’ ob n oods Towe r hmon d e dbe r h 62 R i H , Ric S g , ast e 3 1 Se mme rwat e r 84 -88 C l , , ob n son h ard of Cou nt e r et t e 9 1 65-1 67 1 69 R i , Ric , S l , , , ’ s de 88 h ak e s e are s a of e nr VI . i , S p pl y H y ’ o an s e at 66 1 09 R g S , ok e b a h of 26 h amb e s at e tt e 1 66 R y, R lp , S l S l , ‘ ’ Th e e on Sow of 26 h ar o e r 3 8 F l , S p, R g , oman t e of r t at on h e e We n s e da e 1 1 5 R yp c yp Rip , S l y l ,

1 1 8 h e e e r . 90 S l y, P cy B oman s at a n r d e 84 8 h e n e ur re 36 R B i b i g , , 7 S , S y, at a t e r k 3 2 h ro e t de 88 C t ic , S v i , INDEX 1 79

mon de We n se lawe Si r 1 08 Th rsk 1 06 Si , , i , k e e r 1 1 9 W am ast bot of S ll, Riv , illi , l Ab k t on 9 1 4 1 43 1 44 1 46 ou n ta ns bbe 1 21 S ip , , ,— , , , F i A y , 1 4 9 1 5 Th or a b 1 00 1 01 7 l y, , ast e 1 50-1 56 Th orn t on W l am sk r 90 C l , , i li (A igg) , Skirfare e r 1 4 6 Tibe t o t arms of 23 , Riv , , , n e r a woman of ot t e rda e T n t e r n bbe 4 1 Sli g , C l , i A y, Tor e re To 1 02 92 M p, n sb am of 1 29 Towt on att e of 1 55 Sli g y, f ily , , B l , ran s 1 29 Tu dor dmu n d 36 F ci , , E , W M 5 ar 1 29 T u rn e r . . . 9 84 1 39 M y, , J , , , Si r h ar e s 1 29 C l , Si r e n r 1 29 Ure e r an d a e of 4 3 71 H y, , Riv V ll y , , n owstorms i n t h e da e s 83 80 89 97-99 1 02 1 07 1 09 S l , , , , , , , ou th r a 7 1 1 5 an d se e We n s e da e S Af ic , , l y l an sh rmada 1 54 Ur e dale 81 an d se e We n sle vdale Sp i A , , e ht arr 83 87 97 Sp ig , H y, , , ’ E 40 V f ra 1 St . ath a s bbe asb a e o o 3 1 06 Ag A y , y, l M wb y, ’ St . ban s bbe 1 08 of York 6 Al A y, , Alk lda h ur h e de d at e d t or a a e 1 69 St . e s , c c ic Vic i C v , 1 1 0 1 8 ue n 1 69 t o, , 6 Q e ,

S n n e h ant r t o at skr o u n te e rs IVe n sle dale e t c. t . A , c y , A igg, V l , y , , 91 ’ t r r at h mon d St . ar n s o M i P i y Ric , 28 4 2 Wak e fie d at t e of 1 55 , l , B l , ’ bbe at Y r k 28 Wak m n th e of on 1 1 St . ar s o e e 7 M y A y , , , Rip , , h a h a f i n h 1 1 8 St . o s e o Nic l , C p l , Ric mon d ast e 3 1 Wa bur n a l 57 C l , l H l , a Lon don 9 VV m r de 5 St . an r s tat on e 7 P c S i , , y , ’ S t obe rt s h a e Knare s I 'Valde n dal e 1 02 . R C p l, , or ou h 1 3 4 Wa k e r e or e 91 b g , l , G g , ’ S W r d s e d on 1 1 8 Wa k ar ms of 1 1 0 t . e e r ilf i N l , Rip , wic , , ’ t a s e 65 t h e K n -make r 1 09 S g F ll, i g , t ak e e 83 Wat e r sh e d of En an d 1 66 1 71 S F ll, gl , , t arbe k 1 35 Wat n t r e e t 27 S c , li g S , St arbot t om 1 02 Wa n e h r st o h e r 23 , y , C i p , S i n h da e 2 IV l w S W t orms t e s 6 63 83 e n ce a . e e e n s e l , , , l y W W t ra th e at arro at e 1 35 e n se lawe . Se e e n s e S y, , H g , l y t r d t h e 1 43 We n s e 1 05 1 07 1 1 0 S i , , l y, , , t u d e o a 1 1 9 We n s e da e 5 4 3 64 65 71 -1 1 1 S l y R y l, l y l , , , , , , a e e r 20 21 4 1 4 8-67 1 1 5 Sw l , Riv , , , , a e da e 8 1 3 4 7-64 83 ore st of 87 Sw l l , , , , F , w n e ross ddl eh am 1 1 0 \Ve st urt on 1 00 S i C , Mi , B , We stmor e an d 37 63 66 1 01 l , , , , Te es h h or e on t h e 99 1 55 , ig f c , Te e sda e 64 a h e l e l , R lp N vil , Te m ars Kn ht h a e of 1 06 fi rst Ear of 3 6 pl , ig , c p l , l , Thame s e r 3 6 We th e r e l 82-84 89 Riv , F l , , 1 80 YORKSHIRE DA LES AND FELLS

Wh Mr f s r 1 W a h n a e . o 9 m t e o ue ror 1 8 33 34 l y, A k igg, illi C q , , , Wh ar e e r 1 39 1 4 1 1 42 1 44 1 33 1 51 f , Riv , , , , , , 1 56 th e L on of ot an d 3 4 i Sc l , Wh ar e da e 5 1 02 1 36 1 39-1 46 W nt e rbur n 1 5 f l , , , , i , 7 f W W ore st o 1 43 ode n sla . Se e e ns e F , g l y Whe rnside 1 71 Woodh a ark 9 , ll P , 7 re at and L tt e 1 1 1 Wordsworth W am 1 5 1 61 G i l , , illi , 7, Wh r Dr r an of ra Wra h n h tak e . st o e n t e s a d obs 4 i , Hi i C v i , 7 an d Richmon dsh i re 24 25 76 W att the ar h t e t 1 1 , , , , y , c i c , 7 1 54 W man da e r to t he Ear of y , pif l Wh t ffe ar 47-49 53 chmon d 28 i cli Sc , , Ri , Wh t fie d or e 96 i l F c , Widdale e 89 York 22 28 F ll, , , W r d 1 1 8 r hb sh o r of 53 ilf i , A c i p ic , Willan ce o e rt 49 50 n st e r 1 39 , R b , , Mi , ’ Willan ce s Lea 49 54 Va e of 6 p, , l ,

TH E END

h i s se r i e s o f b o o k s i s h T c i e fl y di st i n g u i sh e d b y i t s e x q u i si t e i ll u s

i o n s i n c o l o u r . h r i T e e s n o v o l u m e t h a t o n e c a n n o t t u r n t o i n a n d a g a i n w i t h r e n e w e d i n t e r e st a n d de i h t l g . N o e x pe n se h a s n sp a r e d i n r e r o du c i n g t h e e x a c t c o o u r i n s o f t h e a r t i st a n h p l g s, d t e

Rs a r e b e a u t i u r i n t e d a n d b o u n d h h e r f lly p . W e t o n e r e g a r ds t h e m re l y a s b e a u t i u t h i n s t o b e o o k e d a t a n d a dm i r e d o r w h t h e r f l g l , e g o e s t o t h e m fo r i n o r m a t i o n a n d e n t e r t a n m e n t o n e c a n n t f i , o b u t l e a se d w i t h h p t e se b o o k s, w h i c h a r e t h e o u t c o m e o f t h e u n i t e d r t s o f a r t i st s a u t h o r s r i n t e r s a n d u b i sh e r s t o a c e t h b t , , p , p l p l e e s

K b e o r e t h e u b i c f p l .

T H E 2 0 8 . S E R I E S

i i n t e d and De s r e a n e an d D e s r e BY E ME N PE S I c ib d by P i t d c ib d by MORTI M R , R F A E E . N E T Te M E N PE S A KE LLv R . B . A . R NC S SBITT R . LBOT , xt by DOROTHY

T B u r m a T h e D u r b a r g e r i a a n d u n i s — - i L L US T RA T I O N S i N COLOUR 75 FULL P A G E ILLUSTR A TIONS I N COLOUR l oo FULL P A G E I LL US I R U I O V S I N CO L t P A G E

' W mBUS H a n e an d D e sc r e b e d by S I R MA RTIN CO N WA V Pai n t e d by H E NRY B . i P i t d ib d b ’ n D D TA K E K B t e A . M e s r e E F . C A E , d by . C O RMI C K c ib d by DITH R Y R LBOT LLY T h e A l p s T h e C h a n n e l I sl a n ds E g y pt — i L L US T R A T IO N s IN COLOUR 76 FULL -P A GE ILLUSTR A TIONS i N COLOUR 75 FULL P A G E ILLUSTR A TIONS i N PA G E

‘ DI A R B a n e ( i 0 B L E C US . H LL B . P H E L F N A L L I N B W H R . G A I S . UISH , i t d by By , y V De r e P RO F . A E X A E A N Te A H sc ib d by L ND R xt by M RCUS B . UISH B r i t i sh E D D . MILLING N , . r = C O IO U P A r t e t c H p p y E n g l a n d , . C o n st a n t i n o p l e a

’ - E K ING S PICTUR E S i N COLOUR 63 FULL -P A GE ILLUSTRA TIONS IN COLOUR 80 FULL P A GE ILLUSTR A TIONS I N COLO

P a n e b Te E G E i t d y xt by JOS PH R CO Pa nt e y A H EA C E i d b ’ OO R P R I S R o I i E ’ O Z R W T N De s r e A T . P A E ’ C r u i k sh a n k s Wa t e r c i y LL M LM ’ b d b I I TEETbb OREI Ii v hf E N IE S C O IO U P S T h e E n l i s h L a k e B r i t t a n y g 68 FULL-P A GE F A CSI M IL E R E PRODUCTIONS A GE i i LUSTR A TIONS i N COLOUR IN COLOUR 75 FULL ' P A GE l L LUS T RAT I O N S I N COLO

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