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National WATS: 800-328-0205 In Minnesota: 800-392-0334 FAX: (612) 452-4298 ~ :::~~~ . ~5~· Toll-Free FAX: 800-548-9304 • ~ P.O. Box.64561, St. Paul, Minnesota 55164 VOLUME 17, NUMBER 3 MARCH 1993 STARTING HOROLOGICAL THIS ISSUE! The History of the Movado Watch Company

A SPECIAL 4-PART SERIES, IN COLOR, LOCATED IN THE Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute CENTER OF THIS ISSUE!

Wes Door 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Henry B. Fried 4 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Pocket Watch, 1898

Fred S. Burckhardt 8 ROCK QUARRY Thoughts on Clocks

Jerry Jerue 14 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Accommodations

Archie B. Perkins 18 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration Part L.XXXVll

Wes Door 22 SHOPTALK Certification or Not

Marshall F. Richmond 24 PICKLE BARREL Jewelry Crafting and Repair Useful Tools

George Hite 30 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT Hamilton 505: Compensation Procedure for Index Wheel and Endpiece Wear

Henry B. Fried 33 BOOK REVIEW The Clock Repairer's Handbook

J.P. Kenyon 34 THE APPRENTICE CLOCKMAKER Clock Movement Maintenance, Part II Examination of a Single Train 30-Hour Clock Movement

Dewey Clark 36 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT Balance Assemblies: Principles of Operation and a Little History DEPARTMENTS Marvin E. Whitney 40 MILITARY TIME Hamilton Wristwatch, Part II New Members/10 Bulletin Board/12 AskHuck/16 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Material Search Network/28 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Association News/28 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classified Ads/44 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/48 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on Advertisers' lnde.x/48 all natlonal holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hourrecordlng), FAX (513) 661-3131. * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Jamee H. Broughton Harold J. Herman George Danlele Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDffORIAL OFRCES Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson Josephine F. Hagans •Hamilton E. Pease AWi Central • Orvllle R. Hagans Miiton C. Stevens P.O. Box 11011 Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue • Dec:eaalld Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131

Milton C. Stevens: Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Donna Baas: Production Director President's Message Harold J. Hennan: Senior Technical Editor Many of the ideas for good articles come from our Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager members. Thankgoodness! Thisarticleaboutcertifica­ Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator tions is an example of member input. Because of the importance of this material, it TECHNICAL EDITORS will be shared jointly in this "President's Message" Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee column and in this month's "Shop Talk" article. James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon Some of the questions to be discussed are as Fred S. Burckhardt John A. Nagle follows: What are the different certifications offered by David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins A WI? Does a certification help, and if so, how? Some Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter say it's a waste of time. Do we agree? These and other Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond questions will be addressed today, but first some back­ Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney Henry B. Fried ground information. We all have services performed by people AWi OFFICERS with certificates or diplomas of some sort. Our doctor, dentist, and many other professional Wes Door, CMW: President people must have taken and passed certain courses, some of which may have taken several Joseph L Cerullo, CMW, CMC: First Vice President years to complete. This not only happens before they can attach the word "Doctor" to their Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President name, but before they can even put out their shingle and practice their profession. Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary We learn to respect their advice knowing that they had to pass a designated Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI: Treasurer amount of knowledge to achieve their title. At this point one might say we cannot equate the requirements of a doctor (who works on people sometimes in life and death situations) AWi DIRECTORS to our business of just working on watches, clocks, or jewelry. A more appropriate William Biedennan, CMW comparison might be made between our business and an auto mechanic, appliance repair Robert F. Bishop, CMEW shop, or even a tire shop. We all have seen diplomas or certificates proudly hanging up in Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Charles Cleves these shops also. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI Now this does not necessarily mean that all employees in these shops have a Gerhard Hutter, CMW certificate, or that they are not qualified to perform their job equally as well as the shop Benjamin Matz, CMW person with the certificate. At this point, let's stop and think. Who would we want to trust John A. Nagle with our car, the one with a certificate or the one without a certificate who may or may not Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI be as well qualified? Of course, if we know the mechanic personally and this person has Marshall F. Richmond, CMW a good reputation, we may not know if they have any certifications hanging on the wall. James E. Williams, CC We may not even care. However, it is quite likely this person will have taken some special training as most products today have changed enough to require this. Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director In our business we are aware of changes also, and we need all the knowledge we Tony Knorr: Research & Education Council Director cari muster up (and then some) just to keep up with changing times. We need 1-0ay and 2- Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Immediate Past day seminars, longer special courses, reading material including the Horological Times, President and yes, we need to be sure we are qualified. Our certification programs are our means to accomplish this. Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary For more information on certification, read "Shop Talk" in this issue. David LaFleche: General Manager James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director

Reprinting and reproduction la prohibited wlth­ outwrltten permlnlon from the American Watch­ maker..Clockmakers Institute. Copyrlght@1993 by the American Watchmakera-Clockmakers In­ ON THE FRONT: The "Balcony House" at stitute. Mesa Verde National Park, Cortez, Colorado. Slide by Regina Stenger, Cincinnati, Ohio.

2 Horological Times/March 1993 BENCH BAND CUTIER CRYSTAL PRESS/CASE CLOSER Excellent tool for sizing mesh bands. long-lasting Our case closer offers you the best of both worlds - blade; square cut without fraying. European made. price and quality. Made of metal with multiple dies, BC-100 this crystal press/case closer is the perfect tool for snap-back cases. The hollow dies allow fitting without damaging the crystal or bezel. CRY-910.00

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THE JEWELERS' DEPARTMENT STORE Toll Free: 800-223-8960 Fax: 800-526-8682 • 1= 56 West 47th St., New York, NY 10036 (212) 819-0237 Fax: (212) 354-2270 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

Pocket Watch, 1898 New England Watch Company

Enclosed are three photos of "adjusted." The serial number is Q a pocket watch which we 735574, which,asbestaslcandeter­ would like to identify. The maker or mine, indicates the movement was circa inside is engraved: manufactured around 1880. Reprints 2011146 of early Elgin sales brochures from around this time period indicate stan­ ~'(; C!f-JJI- (!J p dard grade 80 are not adjusted, but those marked "H.H. Taylor" are ad­ Thanks very much for your justed, and command a price $5.00 help! higher than the unmarked grade 80. Sherry Dolly My question is: For what Chicago, IL were these H.H. Taylor grades ad­ justed? "Adjusted" can mean many things: for temperature variations ,.._ only, for temperature and iso­ ...... ,.. chronism, or for temperature, iso­ • chronism, and position (3, 5, or 6). Incidentally, this watch, be­ ing an early one, has a flat hair­ spring, and after starting to rate it, I found an isochronal error of 65 sec/ (f '~ day between full wound and 24 hours run down! I readily corrected that to an error undetectable on my rate recorder by truing the hairspring and closing the curb pins to very slight constant contact on both sides I have seen other watches I have just restored a watch of the spring. A liM this one, and can readily Q that has been in the owner's Initial checking on the rate recognize this as a product of The family since it was bought new. The recorder for position error indicated New England Watch Company of present owner is very interested, and a nearly identical rate for 5 positions Waterbury, CT, circa 1898. in my attempt to educate him about when fully wound. However, bench A few millions ofsuch move­ the watch I find that a question has running for 24-hour periods resulted ments in various cases were produced arisen that I cannot answer, even in the pendant-up position being 17 until about 1908. They featured the though I have diligently searched secondsslowerthandial-up!Thisled duplex escapement. This is easily through my rather extensive refer­ me to wonder if the watch had been seen as having alternate long and ence library. Therefore, I am turning adjusted by Elgin for position, and short teeth. This eliminated the need to you for the answer. thus my search for an answer to the for three jewels ifthey had to be used This is a National Watch Co. question. with a lever escapement; thus, it was (Elgin) watch. It is 18 size, 2nd model, Roy Ehrhardt, in his Elgin done more cheaply. The escapement hunting style, grade 80, class 3, and Watch Company Identification and is fully descri'bed in my 4th Edition is pendant wind, lever setting; 15- Price Guide (1976), expressed his of "The Watch Repairer's Manual." jewel movement. Further, the move­ opinion that these early adjusted HBF ment is marked "H.H. Taylor" and name grade Elgin movements should

4 Horological Times/March 1993 The New Quartz Multi-Purpose Crown Gauge

NEW DESIGN: Includes CROWN OPENING: Permits small taps and sizes for you to determine the case todays quartz watches! tube the sample crown fits.

STEM TAP: Measures the following LUG WIDTH: Determine the width tap sizes. Tap 13 (0.60mm), tap 12 of the strap or spring bar needed. (0.70), tap 11 (0.80), tap 10 (0.90), Measures widths: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, tap 9 (1.00), and tap 6 (1.20). 15, 16, 17, 18, and 20mm.

CROWN TAP: Permits you to determine the crown tap size, CASE TUBE: Sizes exactly as indicated above. 1.30, 1.50, 1.60, 1.80, 2.00, 2.20, and 2.50.

CROWN DIAMETER: Diameters 2.60, 2.80, 3.00, Specially manufactured 3.20, 3.40, 3.60, 3.80, 4.00, in Switzerland for 4.20, 4.40, 4.60, 4.80, 5.00 Jules Borel & Co. Shown actual size

You'll use this little jewel of a tool every time you need to replace a stem, crown, tube, spring bar, or strap. Designed by BOREL for the serious watchmaker. Golden anodized color. Ref.# 6740 Price $28.00

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Jules Borel & Company (800) 776-6858 order desk 1110 Grand Avenue Kansas City, MO 64106 (800) 776-6862 FAX ments should qualify as "railroad does mention in both Crossman and any information on the movement in grades," even though no uniform Abbott (contemporary reporters and the photos. I believe the screw hole standards for railroad watches had authors) that the H.H. Taylor model (marked #1) is for a "Geneva Stop" been established at the time they was in department "A", which I as­ (see nub on winding arbor). How­ were manufactured. Ifthis is true, it sume was for the better grade mod­ ever, I have no idea of the purpose of seems to me they probably did leave els, and possibly were regulated to screw hole #2 or the wheel attached the factory adjusted to, among other keep better time. to the minut~arbor and the weighted things, position, and that this watch The Taylor models made be­ wheel which rides upon it. has, since then, merely suffered at tweenJune 28, 1873andMay6, 1878 Sam Tipton the hands of some "Arschloch" in­ had stem winding added to them. Maryville, TN CQmpetent repairer! The H.H. Taylor model was intro­ Willard Halsted duced in October 1867 about a year Omaha, NE after production started. As for your problems with H.H. Taylor was an early di­ the watch, perhaps the mainspring A rector of Elgin who served might be changed to supply a longer seven years until he died on Nov. 9, and stronger motion to the balance. 1875. Although the Taylor models There is little more that I can add to were supposed to be "fully jeweled," what you already have learned. It atthattimeitmeant 15jewels. Their would be interesting to learn how balances were bimetallic, so we must you solved your problems with this assume that these had a temperature watch. adjustment, or were considered to be HBF so. In no book on their history I need information about the does it mention "adjusted" or the Q Birge & Fuller 8-day, triple existenceofanadjustingdepartment, decker, such as dates, history of the although they certainly had an ad­ makers, etc. justing department much later. It Also, I would like to request

Your letter was referred to THI TIMI HAS (OMI! A me for response. Birge & Fuller was one of the ventures in EURO TOOL has made which John Birge was involved in available their new 1993 Bristol, CT. The firm known as Birge Watchmakers Tools Catalog. & Fuller operated from 1844 until The catalog features all the necessary tools used by watch­ Thomas Fuller died in 1848. While makers and others when known particularly for sharp gothic repairing mechanical or quartz clocks with wagon-spring or fusee watches. movements, they continued to make triple deckers of the type associated Of particular note is the Battery Change Kit, which has sold well with John Birge, such as those bear­ in a handy roll-and-tie pouch. ing "Birge & Gilbert" or Birge, Gil­ This is an invaluable kit for bert, & Co." labels. They often have department stores and other brass "strap" type movements, since retailers who change batteries. rolled brass for such large move­ If you wish to have a copy of the ments was not available when Birge new Watchmakers Tools Catalog started to make clocks. contact your local distributor, or (Please turn t,o page 10) call 1-800-552-3131 for a copy and a distributor near you.

EURO TOOL! USA• Switzerland The ultimate source to fu1fiti any watchmakers' toot needs. 11449 Randall Drive _J Lenexa, KS 66215

6 Horological Times/March 1993 -----150th Anniversary Atmos Clock----- TIMELESS BEAUTY, RUNS ON AIR

Back about 1984, to mark their 150th anniversary, lhe Swiss company that makes the Atmos clock created a limited edition of individually numbered replicas of the origi­ nal Almos.

Hand blown glass dome, every piece of brass is 24kl gold plated, jeweled bearings, and with the newest technical improve­ ments incorporated in ils design. This beauty is a full 131/2 inches high and no pholcr graph could do ii justice. Only 750 were sel aside for North America.

A temperature change of only 1 degree Fahrenheit lets the Almos store enough energy for forty-eight hours. Each revolu­ tion of the cylindrical torsion pendulum lakes a full 60 seconds. This slow opera­ tion, fine precision construction, and smooth running bearings means that the energy it lakes to light one 15 watt bulb would be enough lo keep 60 million Almos mecha­ nisms in motion.

In 1984 lhis 150lh Anniversary Atmos sold for $2,950-while the standard model Atmos was only $1, 100. Today the standard Almos is worth about $1,600. If all things were equal ii should mean that lhe limited edi­ tion, if slill available, should be worth at least $4,300-bul, the company has been out of stock for several years.

I have a limited number of these beauties, in their original factory sealed cartons, just as they were received from the Swiss fac­ ,lory in 1984. I understand they should be worlh as least $6,000 each by now. Bui, al + Limited Edition this lime you can be lhe proud owner of one of lhese beautiful pieces of clock his­ + Individually Numbered Below 375 tory for just fractions of ils actual worth­ ils original 1984 price of only $2,950 + Original Factory Sealed Cartons each (shipping included). J.D. Olson------,; 1011 Valley River Way • Eugene, Oregon 97 401 1tiiili~ Bank cards accepted. Phone: (503) 344-3445 All clocks shipped al once.

March 1993/Horological Times 7 ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

Thoughts on Clocks

Everything's all right with the world. The Dallas This made her very happy; in fact, she sent a lot of Cowboys won the Super Bowl, Hillaiy has moved her customers to me. office closer to Bill and now she won't have to go too Did you ever see one of those big grandfather far to whisper in his ear, and a clock I fixed is still clocks with about 50 chime tubes hanging in the running. case? A good customer insisted I stop by to see what The first two aren't really that important, but was wrong with her clock, as it wasn't chiming the third is a milestone. I promised not to fool around properly. When I walked in and saw what kind of with any more clocks, but then I hit a lucky one and clock it was, I almost had the big one. I tried to explain my attitude changed. that I wasn't qualified to work on that type of clock, I've always admired those who make their but she insisted I do something. As I always try to living repairing clocks. If I had to do it for a living I'd please my customers, I decided to give it a try. That probably be applying for food stamps. But there is thing was supposed to play about six different tunes, something about clocks that fascinates me. Watches but somehow they got all mixed up. After three hours, are no problem--as long as they are FF-60s or 5AD I called her to come in and listen to the chimes. On Bulovas. Anything else is too complicated for me. As the quarter past, it played "Rock-a-bye Baby"; at half you know, there aren't too many of those around past it played "Shine On, Harvest Moon"; at quarter anymore, so I have a lot of free time. This is where I of, it played 'When Your Old Wedding Ring Was New"; get into trouble. A customer will bring in a clock when and at the hour, it played "When the Saints Go I'm not busy, so Big Hero me will take it in for repair. Marching In." Needless to say, there were tears in her I cringe when somebody walks in with a eyes when I left. It's times like these that make it all cuckoo clock. There must have been something worthwhile. wrong with the last one I worked on. The bird stayed Ship's chronometers are something else. I out all the time except when it was time for it to sound repaired one from a ship that was heading for Eng­ off, then it went inside and the door closed. When the land. I figured if it kept time within 20 minutes or so customer came in to pick it up, I told her she was very a day, it would be okay. So what if they landed in fortunate because she had a "one-of-a-kind" clock. Africa? Big deal. Next time they can take it some­ where else to get it fixed. YOU HAVE TRIED THEM ALL . .. NOW TRY I'm thinking about making tower clocks my specialty. They're nice and big, and judging from the PLYMOUTH one I saw one time, they're not too complicated. Of WE ARE A FULL SERVICE MATERIAL SUPPLIER. course, I'll have to buy some larger wrenches and WE SPECIALIZE IN RQLEX PARTS, other tools, plus some very long ladders, but so what? MATERIALS FOR QUARTZ WATCHES There's big money involved. I turned a job down last AND HARD-TO-FIND MATERIALS FOR year because I didn't think I could handle it, but what AMERICAN BRACELET & POCKET WATCHES, the heck--how else are you going to learn? After all, CLOCK MATERIALS, & TOOLS. I figure ifl can repair about 50 or so a year, I'll be able SEND FOR A FREE SET OF CIRCULARS. to make a good living. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Have to go. That clock I was bragging about PLYMOUTH WATCH MATERIAL CO., INC. just stopped. Well, it ran almost a full day. At least I'm 87 Nassau St., Room 909 getting better!! New York, NY 10038 Telephone (212) 267-4441 0

8 Horological Times/March 1993 The Bestfit® 300 System© from Vigor® Company Now Available for Computers! Eliminate your cumbersome Microfiche System I

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(First update free to microfiche system users, with return of system.) • Easy to enter your own system Order "MATSYS" information. now for only $~9500 Call your Vigor" Distributor for a demonstration or and start saving use the coupon below to order a Demonstration Disk. r- - -MA.'T8Ys i5'e~~n";";ati~ "i>i;k'o"icie;'"Fo~- - , Send $25.00 to Vigor" Company, 1218 Six Flags Road, time immediately! Austell, GA 30001-7599, A'ITN: MATSYS This amount will be credited to your system purchase. Name: Phone#: ____ Company Name: ______System Requirements: • IBM compatible Address:------• 640KofRam City/State/Zip: ______• AT class machine or higher Vigol4 Distributor:------• Minimum 70Mb hard drive L __ ~~~ !!~e.!:, E:_ ~~·:_n~~ ~ _D]~:'. £i~ __ .J To obtain the name of the VIGOR@ Distributor nearest you, call 1-800-99-VIGOR (800-998-4467), ext. 2990 ADAMS, Wilfred J., Jr.--Bu«er, PA MARCHAND, Jacques--La Chaux-de-Fonds, THOMPSON, Charles Ross, Jr.--Agoura ALTMAN, David--Lincoln, NE Switzerland Hills, CA BARTON, Tuomas--New York, NY MARTINEZ, Hector Luis--St. Croix, VI TRAPP, William F.--McLean, VA BEREJIKLIAN, Vahe--Littleton, CO MARY, Arthur C.--Freeport, ME Sponsor: Marvin Whitney--Alexandria, VA BLOZOWICH, David G.--Curwensville, PA McNEARNY, Kevin--Denver, CO WALKER, Lynn W.--Winter Park, FL BONEY, George C.--Greenville, SC MILLER, Frank--Garfield Heights, OH WAMPLER, Steven D.--Denison, TX Sponsor: E.W. Pace--Greenville, SC Sponsor: Klaus Ludwig--Brecksville, OH WATSON, Kenneth--Mansfield, OH BULZACCHELLI, Nicholas V.--Pound Ridge, MOODY, Tony--Rockdale, TX WERLING, Lee T., Jr.--Montgomery, AL NY NANNEY, Robert T.--Satellite Beach, FL WHITE, Roger--Grand Junction, CO BUSHER, Paul--Sigel, IL NULPH, Debra A.--SeaWe, WA Sponsor: Earl Babb--Grand Junction, CO CANTRELL, Tony--Phoenix, AZ NUNMAKER, D. John--Kirkland, WA WICKER, John--Auburn, WA Sponsor: Timothy Caldwell-Scottsdale, OLIVER, Michael--San Jose, CA WIESE, James, Jr.--Emerald Isle, NC AZ PACE, Steve--Greenville, SC WINDERS, Earl--Lorain, OH CANTY, Frank-Orlando, FL Sponsor: E.W. Pace--Greenville, SC YEUNG, Walter--Albany, GA CHUONG, Khim--Cherry Hill, NJ PARADIES, Richard--Smyrna, GA Sponsor: Chas. E. Ragan--Albany, GA COLEMAN, James C.--Longview, TX Sponsor: Richard Mazza--Atlanta, GA 0 COPLEMAN, Randy--Claremont, CA PATTEN, Daniel, Jr.--Waterbury, CT DAVEY, Alan--Hobart, Tasmania, Australia POLTORAK, Zygmunt--Dallas, TX DELANO, Phil--Milwaukee, WI RAY, Kenneth--Oklahoma City, OK QUESTIONS & ANSWERS (Continued from page 6) Sponsor: Robert Brown--Bkhorn, WI REEDER, Paul--APO, NY DONNELLY, Jeremiah T.--Falls Church, VA ROBERT, Cinette--Bem, Switzerland Concerning the movement, it is diffi­ DUDEK, Stanley--Nesconset, NY ROBERTSON, Harold--Annapolis, MD cult to be specific because it is not DUFFY, Janet L.--Englishtown, NJ ROGERS, Elaine P.--Rio Linda, CA complete. I do not recognize the move­ ment maker (not Howard). It is high­ Sponsor: Ed Eastmond--Union Beach, NJ RUST, Naron--Hopkinsville, KY grade with maintaining power and FOURMAN, Eugene--Hobart, IN SANFORD, Marshall--Hueytown, AL seconds arlx>r. The cylindrical wheel Sponsor: Jeff Fourman--Loganville, GA SANGER, Michael F.--Louisville, KY in the center arbor may have carried FRANK, Odell--LiWe Canada, MN Sponsor: Leon Sanger--Olathe, KS a fiat belt that drove something else, or it may have carried a paper tape FREIERMUTH, Leo J.--Portland, OR SANTOLUCITO, John--Wayland, MA carried by friction that had a contact GALVEZ, Jesse Gee--Seattle, WA SCHMIDT, Harvey-Flushing, NY arrangement (possibly mounted by GARNER, William H.--Conklin, NY SCHMITZ, Loren L.--La Mesa, CA hole #2) that closed a circuit for some purpose. Presumably, the roller kept GIDDINGS, Judith L.--San Bernardino, CA SCHUMAKER, Gerald--Aurora, CO the tape in contact with the large, GONZALEZ, Hugo--San Gabriel, CA Sponsor: Timothy Caldwell-Scottsdale, drum-like wheel. It does appear that Sponsor: Charles Clark--Beverly Hills, CA AZ hole # 1 perhaps had a star wheel as GRANDSTAFF, Randall--Cincinnati, OH SCHWARTZ, Stanley--New York, NY stop work--otherwise, the fingerpiece on the arbor would serve no purpose GREENLEE, Jerry--Santa Fe, NM SHPILKOVSKY, lgor--EI Paso, TX unless it advanced something used HUNTER, John--Canisteo, NY Sponsor: Timothy Caldwell--Scottsdale, for program purposes. The ckvice INGLIS, James Gerard--Danbury, CT AZ looks like a one-of-a-kind thing mack KERR, John--Emporium, PA SIGAL, Grigory--Oak Park, Ml up for some special purpose--prob­ ably a signaling device. There is a KIEHNE, Frederick P.--Dayton, OH SPEECH, Steven--St. Paul, MN possibility it drove a paper disk in KOCIS, Daniel--Allentown, PA STEWART, Errol David--Umpqua, OR the lower part ofthe clock to record a LAIBLE, George--Bonner Springs, KS ST. GERMAIN, Arthur--Seabrook, NH watchman's rounds either mechani­ cally like a Howard Model 37 or one LASECKI, Bruce M.--Hortonville, WI STONE, Gerald P.--Scotts Valley, CA recording electrically transmitted LINDSEY, Georgene N.--Tucson, AZ STRICKLAND, George S.--Lakeville, MA station signals. This would have to Sponsor: Roy Burkey--Tucson, AZ SWARTZ, Randel L., 11--Tracy, CA be determined by examination of the case if extant. LINDBERGH, Tommy--Bandhagen, Sweden Sponsor: Herbert (Ed) Patten--Novato, CA Dana J. Blackwell LOTT, Charlie--Winston, GA TAYLOR, Artis, Jr.--Jacksonville, NC 0

10 Horological Times/March 1993 JANET LEACH Senior Technical Assistant It's immediately apparent Eveready®Battery Company's ents, she transfers that Evereadj'Technology Laboratory that Janet Leach loves her Westlake, Ohio Research enthusiasm and energy to Westlake, Ohio work. One can hear it in her facility. some favorite pastimes. voice and see it in her Janet is currently completing Among those are sports (rac­ actions as she demonstrates requirements for a Bachelor of quetball as a player and soccer the capability of the Scan­ Science degree in chemistry. as a spectator). She also ning Electron Microscope that When she isn't casting a crit­ enjoys reading and collecting has been her responsibility ical eye on mega-magnified classic movies on video. for the past four years at Eveready®battery compon- ••••

·~•·~•IQ·· ...... ~ .• ... .• • • ~.

Eveready®watch batteries Microscopist Janet Leach, a and components are subject­ IO-year Eveready®employee, ed to countless tests and says that much of her work evaluations to assure their involves magnification up to reliability and dependability. 2000 times a battery's origi­ Surely one of the most unfor­ nal size. However, if more is giving of these is the search required, it is available. "Our for flaws under the Scanning microscope," she says, with Electron Microscope. a tone of awe in her own voice,

EVEREADY®WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated - ... ..,~~ manufacturing process, a high degree ottechn!cal expel1jse and people dedicated to making the difference. B. RESPONSES

BULLETIN OBSOLETE TIMEX WATCHES Phillip Gonsher, Kansas City, MO, indicates that he can help Scot Graham with information about obsolete Timex BOARD watches.

REMOVING LABEL IMPRINTS A. NEW REQUESTS We received recommendation from Forrest (Frosty) Crum and Ken Peck in response to Harold Neil's problem of WATCHMASTER G-48 TIMER RIBBON removing the label imprint from old glass pocket watch Jack Glusman, Philadelphia, PA, seeks suggestions for crystals. replacing the ribbon on a Watchmaster G-48 Timer. Mr. Crum suggests: Let tap water drop on label Some renew their ribbons with stamping pad ink; we are for a few minutes, then peel label off under running seeking information regarding possible substitute rib­ water with thumbnail. Keep rubbing with thumbnail bons for replacements. until imprint of label on crystal is gone. Mr. Peck suggests: _Use a hard felt wheel with water and pumice. A11.AN11C WATCHES George Stuscavage, Martinez, CA, ts seeking a U.S. NEW HAVEN PENDULUM BOB source for "Atlantic" watches which are known to be Andrew Erny responded that he has the same pendulum popular in Poland. bob for a New Haven clock that Howard Wiseman inquired about. Mr. Erny offered to share information PIERRE RUECI with Mr. Wiseman. Donn Kummer, Albany, OR, would like to know who distributes the "Pierre Rueci" watch. WALTHAM FLOOR CLOCK Ken Peck has offered to share his method of determining appropriate floor clock weights with Norman Schreck. WEIGHT SHELLS FOR FLOOR CLOCKS He uses a dieter's scale. Donn Kummer also seeks a source for brass shells (empty) for floor clock weights. AWI would like to develop HAZ LABORATORIES a list of several sources. Steven Conover, Clockmakers Newsletter, suggests that Richard Hansen contact David Morgan, 137 Main St., BRANSON ULTRASONIC CLEANER Rt. 523, P.O. Box 217, Whitehouse Station, NJ 08889 for B-12 SCHEMATIC information about HAZ Laboratories. Mr. Conover had Bob Carlson, Houston, TX, is seeking a schematic for a reviewed an HAZ tool in his newsletter. Branson B-12 ultrasonic cleaner. Requests to Branson in the past have gone unanswered. If you can supply. we will copy and return your original. C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED

HOUSE OF 1000 CLOCKS WALTHAM FLOOR CLOCK Bernard Petit, Dothan, AL, needs the address for a Ken Peck offered a method to determine the correct German firm known as "The House of 1000 Clocks." weight. We are repeating this request to see if anyone knows the size and weight from literature or past expe­ rience. TIMING WASHERS Robert Little, Logan, OH, ts seeking sources for timing Norman Schreck, Summerville, NJ, has a Waltham floor washers to fill in specific sizes he needs. AWI would be clock "Regulator No. 1602," Serial No. 2 717. The weights interested in sources for complete assortments as well. are missing and he needs to know what size and weight they should be. The clock ts pictured on page 175 of Clocks, Volume 1. by Tran Du Ly. NEW TOWN CHIME CLOCK John McGrory, Glen Gardner, NJ, seeks wiring details SKELETON CLOCKS for a clock marked "New Town Chime Clock CH 2502." ShubertHockmuller, Longmont, CO, isseekingsources for books, sketches, and plans to build skeleton clocks. JERGER CHESS CLOCKS We would like to build a list of sources for such items. Roy Burkey, Tucson, AZ, seeks a U.S. source for spare parts for German-made Chess Clocks manufactured by Do you have information regarding this month's Jerger. Identifying marks are W6 and 386. requests? Do you need information about one ofthia month's responses? COLE PALMER ULTRASONIC CLEANER If so, send a self-addressed, stamped business-size Laurie Cusher, Hyde Park, NY, seeks a schematic for envelope and your request to: "Bulletin Board," c/o a Cole Palmer Ultrasonic Cleaner (tank type) Model AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 8845-5. 45211. D

12 Horological Times/March 1993 JEWELERS' WORK BENCH and CADDY

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SPEAl(ING Jerry Jerue

ACCOMMODATIONS State Tech's Challenge for the 90's Plainwell, Michigan "Accommodations" has become an impor­ environment in which they, with their commodations would be relatively easy to tant term in the vocabulary of MRS, the unique difficulties, can learn successfully. workout. However, as a trade school need­ parent of State Technical Institute & Re­ These accommodations must be ing to maintain consistently high employ­ habilitation Center, and it has become made in various areas: behavioral, me­ ment stati~tics for graduates, the issue of important to the instructors at this facility. chanical, and theoretical. Means must be accommodations becomes problematic. Our clients are almost entirely found or developed to enable a client whose Why? Because along with accommodat­ made up of those who are considered by behaviors disable him or her from com­ ing the client, the watch and clock repair Michigan Rehabilitation Services as voca­ pleting work without time-consuming in­ instructormustbeconcemedwith training tionally handicapped. In past years, our terruptions of programs necessitated by for competitive employment, and in area­ clients' primary disability was physical, the need to get out of the classroom to sonable amount of time. The trades in­ buy now the typical client at our institute "blow off' steam. Otherwise, the indi­ structor then must wear the hat of a psy­ and in our department has a disability vidual who, because of undeveloped read­ chologist, social worker, and learning dis­ which includes some emotional compo­ ing comprehension, is unable to work ability expert, while at the same time nent. These students, whether troubled by through a problem by reading a technical representing employer expectations and substance abuse, learning disability, or article. consumer demands to the student. psychological problems, must have spe­ If this were a high school, junior This is our challenge day to day cial accommodations to provide a learning college, or university, the problem of ac- in training technically expert, micro-me­ chanics--a challenge which constantly changes as new disabilities appear in the classroom. I think perhaps only another watch repair instructor could appreciate how one would accommodate a client who sees backwards. Not simply letters ornum­ Clocks bers, but everything backwards. Imagine the implications of this problem in a repair 0 Howard Miller setting! Imagine the correction of a hair­ 0 Ridgeway spring in an AS-1012. Moreover, imagine 0 Sligh how one would instruct them as to how to go about the correction of such a routine 0 New England and other fine Clocks problem. Finally, imagine this problem as ongoing with every new project! On a given day, the instructor Discounts up to 55 % off retail. might be able to accommodate or realisti­ cally train students for competitive em­ t/We ship anywhere in the continental US. ployment, but to consistently do both ev­ V'Mastercard & Visa Accepted eryday is a real mountain-scaling chal­ V'Financing is available lenge. V'90 days same as cash For the past number of years, We also offer expert clock repair and with rare exception, our department has antique clock and case restoration. maintained a 100% employment statistic. Thus, it is possible to accommodate and train for competitive employment at the A Time To Remember same time, but the need to find better, cost­ Open effective ways of accomplishing this task 145 E. Gould St., P.O. Box 1007 Monday - Saturday has never been greater. I wonder if the Nashville, IN 47448 situation at our center is unique, or do 'Zrl-812-988-TIME (8463) Call 24 hrs. a day other watch repair instructors face the 7 days a week 'Zr Toll Free 1-800-252-1124 same challenge? D

14 Horological Times/March 1993 VACUUM DUSTING SYSTEM The soft bristles of the vacuum brush loosen and vacuum up dust and debris without scratching the case. Vacuum brushes are typically used in watch factories around the world. The vacuum pump is quiet and the foot switch provides vacuum pressure when needed.

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LARGE MULTI-DIAL CLOCKS and

ESCAPE WHEEL TROUBLES to the accumulator at the Master Clock, and in a few minutes the remote dials were on the new time. Minutes subtracted from the accumulator would stop the remote Q. In large buildings with multi-dial tower clocks, dials until the new time was correct. what does the clock movement look like? Is this one I recall a clock in the old courthouse in Vicksburg, movement or an individual movement for each dial? Mississippi. This was installed in 1852 and had one shaft downward three floors, then across to a dock in the A. It will be rare indeed if you ever find two tower courtroom. That drive shaft was over 100 feet long! What docks where the installation is identical. Most buildings a contrast between an 1852 Seth Thomas and a 1952 IBM! have one movement with a shaft distribution system to the respective dials. Most movements have a vertical and horizontal Q. What is the solution to escape wheel problems; shaftthat rotate one RPH, and one or more of these feed the for instance, broken or damaged teeth, excessive wear, dials. Probably the most common method is a cluster of out of round, etc.? bevel gears atop the vertical shaft with a horizontal shaft leading to the respective dials. All shafts have telescoping A. This is the very heart of clock repair problems. I've joints and universal joints to cope with alignment prob­ seen vast numbers of the problems you named, plus some lems and dimensional changes in the building structure. others.We see a wide variety of repairs, some of which are Many of the more modem clocks are a simple verygoodandothersthatareshameful. Thesupplyhouses synchronous motor and gear box with an output speed of sell various tools to stretch, form, cut, and refurbish one RPH. Individual motors may be used for each dial. wheels. Many books relate the ease of inserting teeth, This scheme usually has no provision for remote correc­ correcting escapement geometry, and improvement in tion and no ability to recover from power failures. rate. Some top the teeth, while others stretch the wheel. So During my tenure at IBM, all of the new tower where is the real truth? docks used a very fine Regulator Master Clock within the Before we condemn this myriad of activity, let's building proper, and the time was supplied to the tower explore the problem. What is the quality of the clock? Are electrically. This permits remote reset and automatic re­ parts available? What is the antique value or the commer­ covery from power failure. Many were supplied with cial value? What is the life expectancy of the job and its stand-by battery power, automatic battery charging, etc. reliability factor? These and many more questions enter This system was very complex, but the acme of reliability. into the repair decision. This is extended bytheworkman's The IBM Master Clock was weight driven with skills, resources, and his personal pride and workman­ electric winding. The weights were wound about every ship. third day with about a week reserve run time. The move­ My personal mode of workmanship is that the ment had an impulse accumulator--a type of mechanical repair must not discredit the clock, and that I could be storage register. This kept track of minutes of passing time, proud of the job in the presence of my peers. I believe this less minutes of time sent outto the tower. This audited the sim pie rule will improve the performance of every work- validity of time being sent to remote dials. man. , In the tower proper, the dials were driven by an I like a new escape wheel. Clock escapements hold electric motor via a gear cluster, to the respective dials. a romance before my eyes! But alas, we must resort to other Motion work was at each dial. The motor advanced the methods in many cases. tower dials once each minute, which required from about Arecoilescapementisrobustandreliable.Itlends 10-30 seconds depending on dial size, number of dials, and itself to some types of repair that dead beat escapements handweight.Hereagainwasanimpulseaccumulatorthat would not tolerate. The recoil wheel oftentimes permits a compared minutes received to minutes advanced at the tooth to be stretched, or an inserted tooth. When well dials. executed, the job can look nice and perform with good For daylight savings time, 60 minutes were added success.

16 Horological Times/March 1993 We may top the wheel teeth, but this has a falling ,~------, domino effect, causing new problems while trying to correct an old one. *ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL* The dead beat escapement is more delicate and FOR GREAT SERVICE less tolerant to the foregoing subjects. This is one of the best ON ALI, CROWNS, of escapements, but its geometry must be given great respect. SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC And what about replacing the wheel? Mounting a CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, new wheel so that it runs absolutely true in round is a job of skill. It's folly to think a new wheel will slip onto the old MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. wheel and run true. What we conclude is that many methods can make CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES a reliable repair when executed well. Some are much more TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 desirable than others. FAX: 1-800-423-4256 My advice is for every workman to become an escapement expert. Know every detail of the escapement; know its critical characteristics as well as its tolerance ''WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" factors. Take the highest degree of pride in yourworkman­ ship and be a hard taskmaster. Only then can we sort out the conditions that tell us how the repair is to be made. Then ask this question. Am I, and my peers, pleased with EB [Z the job? D WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! If you have a question, please write: 7 DAYS A WEEK! "Ask Huck," c/o Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 NJ: 1-908-469-7200 ~------J

1722 Madison Avenue ~~~~ Tel 419/243-3720 Toledo, Ohio 43624 Will. S. McCaw Company Fax 419/243-0321 THE WM. S. McCA W CO. HAS PURCHASED

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March 1993/Horological Times 17 Technically e WATCHES 1993

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI

1993 Antique Watch Restoration © PART LXXXVII THE DUPLEX ESCAPEMENT (Continued)

The higher grade duplex escapements were made in Company which failed in 1912 and was sold in 1914 to Europe and England. These usually had ruby locking the Robert H. Ingersoll Brothers Company of New York rollers, although some had hard polished steel rollers. City. During this time,. they made many millions of The impulse teeth of the escape wheel were milled watches with duplex escapements. This modified du­ instead of being formed by forging. plex escapement is shown in Figure 1. The modifica­ A less expensive form ofduplex escapement was tions made by Waterbury allowed the duplex escape­ made in America between 1880 and 1912 by the Water­ ment to be made at a lower cost as compared to the better bury Watch Company and the New England Watch grade duplex escapements. Company. The Waterbury Watch Company started in The differences between the Waterbury duplex 1880 and in 1898 it became the New England Watch escapement and the ones made in Europe and England

Figure 1

18 Horological Times/March 1993 Figure2

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March 1993/Horological Times 19 are as follows. The impulse teeth on the Waterbury Figure3 escape wheel are formed with a die instead of being shaped by milling. The locking and impulse teeth were first cut on the rim of the wheel, the impulse teeth being shorter than the locking teeth. Then the impulse teeth were bent upward with the die. Instead of having an impulse arm on the balance s~aff, the Waterbury es­ capement has an impulse pin planted in the balance arm extending down from the arm for the impulse teeth to act on. Instead of having a separate locking roller, this escapement uses the body ofthe lower end ofthe balance staff for locking. The passingnotch for the locking teeth is milled into the locking surface of the staff. These modifications allowed a watch to be made to sell for a price that most Americans could afford at the time. The escapement in Figure 1 shows a locking tooth ready to leave the notch in the staff with the impulse pin in position to receive the impulse tooth as soon as the locking tooth escapes from the notch in the staff.

THE DOUBLE DUPLEX ESCAPEMENT The double duplex escapement is sometimes called a crab-tooth escapement because the double locking teeth resemble a crab's claw. This escapement is also referred to as a "Chinese duplex." The reason for this name is that the duplex escapement was used in watches that were made in Switzerland specially for the Chinese trade starting in about 1825. These watches had fancy engraved plates and bridges and the watches were sometimes made in matching pairs. This escapement is shown in Figure 2. The double duplex escapement impulses the balance wheel on every fourth vibration of the balance instead of on alternate vibrations that occur with the single duplex escapement. The purpose ofimpulsingthe balance on every fourth vibration is so the watch second hand can be made to advance once per second. If a 14,400 vibration train is used in the watch, this would require the watch to beat four times per second. There­ fore, if the balance is impulsed one time per second, the second hand will jump from one second mark to another. The action of the escapement causes some noticeable movement of the second hand between jumps. When referring to the escapement shown in Figure 2, note that the escape wheel has six double­ pronged locking teeth and six vertical impulse teeth. The escapement is shown with the front prong of a double tooth locked on the balance staff. After this prong has acted, the back prong acts. When the back prong has acted and drops out of the notch in the roller, the double tooth will advance, then the balance is impulsed during this advance. After the impulse, then the front prong of the next tooth locks on the locking roller.

THE SEQUENTIAL ACTION OF THE DOUBLE DUPLEX ESCAPEMENT The drawings in Figure 3 are used to show the sequen­ tial action of the double duplex escapement. In these drawings, the escape wheel is always turning in a clock-

20 Horological Times/March 1993 wise direction which is shown by arrows. The direction that the balance wheel is turning in each drawing is also shown by arrows. The sequential action of the escapement is as follows. View A, Figure 3 shows the front prong of a double tooth locked on the locking roller. The balance wheel is turning in a clockwise direction. As the balance continues to turn clockwise, the notch in the roller slides past the front prong of the tooth as shown in View B. The balance continues its clockwise turn until the balance has reached the end ofits swing. Then the balance wheel reverses in the counterclockwise direction as shown in View C. As the balance continues its counterclockwise MINERAL GLASS ASSORTMENT excursion, the front prong of the tooth goes into the notch in the locking roller as shown in View D. At this 100 of the most popular sizes from 14mm to 32.Smm. moment, a slight impulse is given to the balance wheel. Crystals are highly polished and of excellent quality! The second hand has a slight movement when the prong goes into the notch. #CRY-MG100 ~ The balance continues to turn counterclockwise 8 as the front prong goes fully into the notch as shown in $S9· ~ View E, Figure 3. As the balance continues to turn counterclockwise, the front prong ofthe tooth gets ready to leave the notch in the locking roller as shown in View SPRING BAil ASSORTMENTS F. DOUBLE SHOULDER DOUBLE SHOULDER When the front prong leaves the notch, the back REGULAR THIN prong drops onto the locking roller. This is shown in View G. The balance wheel does not receive an impulse 50 Pieces #82.359 50 Pieces #82.427 when this happens. The balance wheel is impulsed only $3.4• when the back prong of a tooth leaves the notch in the $3.4• locking roller. DOUBLE SHOULDER TELESCOPIC After the back prong of a tooth locks on the EXTRA THIN • I • locking roller, the balance continues to turn in the same 50 Pieces #82.460 direction until the balance has reached the end of its 200 pieces #82.100 excursion; then it reverses and turns clockwise as $4... Refil.l.s Available shown in View H, Figure 3. During this clockwise .,... motion, the roller notch goes past the back prong of the BAND CLASP SUDE BUC~LES tooth as shown in View H. ASSORTMENT The balance continues to turn clockwise until Sizes from 6mm thru 18mm. the balance has reached the end of its excursion, then it 14 piece Seiko style yellow d&pS. reverses in a counterclockwise direction as shown in View I, Figure 3. The balance continues in a counterclockwise Assortment of 12 direction until the back prong goes into the notch in the ~ #CLA-020 Yellow #MM-312SBY roller as in View J. The balance gets a slight impulse at this time. Then, as the balance continues to turn, the $29... $29... back prong of the tooth gets ready to leave the notch in the roller as shown in View K. At this moment, note that Refil.l.s available in the impulse lever is in position for the impulse tooth "c" d.Time!ocall Yellow or White to drop onto it to impulse the balance wheel. View L, Figure 3 shows that the back prong of $2..... c11 double tooth "a" has escaped from the notch in the roller -~yl and impulse tooth "c" is approaching the impulse lever. Your Headquarters For Batteries, Watch Material, Tools, Findings, Bands, Jewelry Boxes, Casting Supplies, Watch This impulse tooth will go against the impulse lever and Movements, and Much, Much More. Catalogs Available. impulse the balance around counterclockwise. ~ Phone Orders When the impulse is completed and the impulse .!a tooth leaves the impulse lever, the front prongoflocking ~ (800) 476-2715 ..~ l~?-~~ tooth "b" will drop onto the locking roller. This com­ pletes the cycle of the double duplex escapement. ,~~ To'(;oor ;;"6~~o°i7i,. :as. Repairing the duplex escapement will be dis- cussed next month. D Tampa (813)229-2715 Local Fax (813)221-8016

March 1993/Horological Times 21 SHOPTALK ;-, ,,'t •.~~.•. .. - . ' . Wes Door, CMW • ,, Certification or Not

The preamble to this article is this month's "President's as well as fabricate certain parts that may be worn or Message" which we will presume you have read. missing.

STATE LICENSE LAWS CERTIFIED MASTER ELECTRONIC WATCHMAKER Until the last few years many states had state laws (CMEW) -- for those who can repair quartz or other requiring a watchmaker and/or clockmaker to pass electronic timepieces. They must properly use meters, certain tests to be licensed to practice our trade. etc. This person does not necessarily require all the Unfortunately, some states (like my state of Wash­ mechanical skills possessed by a CW or CMW, but ington) never had such a law. I say unfortunately they must be able to handle the small quartz watch because I would have appreciated such a law. There trains and complex calendar systems. More impor­ are many good craftsmen in our state; however, there tantly they possess a thorough knowledge of the were some that just did not help our reputation. (This electronics involved in quartz watches and can diag­ is a nice way of putting it.) nose malfunctions. The CMEW title is an excellent Our neighboring state ofOregon had a license post-graduate degree to complement the CW and law at that time. Many comments were made such as, CMWtitle. "If you are not good enough to pass the Oregon test you can always move to Washington or California." CERTIFIED CLOCKMAKER (CC) -- for those who can As we know, one by one our good old license laws repair clocks. As with the CW, the CC can do a have been dropped by the states' "powers that be". satisfactory repair on most clocks and alter and Losing this clout has necessitated a new approach by repair certain parts if necessary. AWi. Actually, we have always had certifications, so we really should not say that we need a new ap­ CERTIFIED MASTER CLOCKMAKER (CMC) -- for proach. We just need to be more involved by continu­ those who can repair complex as well as simple ing these programs. clocks. A CMW can make replacement parts which may be worn or missing and can handle all phases of AWi CERTIFICATIONS restoring older clocks. There are several certifications issued by AWI for the watchmaker and clockmaker. They are as follows: HOW CAN A CERTIFICATION HELP IN YOUR BUSINESS? CERTIFIED WATCHMAKER (CW) -- for those who Speaking from personal experience, I have profited have had limited experience making parts. This from all of the certification titles that I hold. I am a person can do a satisfactory repair and alter certain Graduate Gemologist (GG) of the Gemological Insti­ factory-made parts should it become necessary. tute ofAmerica. Before taking this training, I was not qualified to test and identify gems or to properly CERTIFIED MASTER WATCHMAKER (CMW) -- for evaluate diamonds and other gemstones. thosewhoarefullyqualifledinallphasesofmechani­ As a "Certified Accutron Technician," I am cal watch repair. In addition to having the capabili­ quajified to work on Accutron timepieces. Before ties of the CW, a CMW can hm;tdle complicated receiving this training and getting the proper testing watches, be able to routinely make staffs and stems, equipment, I would not attempt to work on them.

22 Horological Times/March 1993 Asa Certified Master Watclunaker, I am quali­ fied to repair watches and do a reasonable amount of part making when necessary. It may seem strange, but when we are qualified to do good work, have the proper tools, and the ability to make a part to fit a watch (and not the watch to fit the part), we are not tempted to do poor work. In fact, it's not only proper, but it's easier to do a professional job. How many watches did you see last week where improper workmanship caused the watch to end up on your bench to be "straightened out"? Maybe it started with your customer taking their watch to another store for a simple cell change. I believe a certification helps in your business in two ways. First, it helps to give confidence. After all, we had to take a test and we did some practical WATCH bench work and lathe work to receive this. Maybe we had to take the test or the bench work more than once BATTERIES to pass. If so, we had to study and learn a little more than we knew before. The book we used for our brush-up is called the Q and A (QuesUons and ASLOWAS ~A Answer book). There is one of these books written for each type of AWI certification. All test questions are based on these Q and A books. The second way our , ...~H certification helps is to let our customers know that we are qualified. We can do this on our calling cards, No. 392 in the telephone directory, and other ads.

IS IT A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY TO BE CERTIFIED? Some think it is a waste of time and money to be AWI Certified. As far as money goes, it is not very costly. Did you know that if one fails the test the first time, there is no charge to retake the part of the test that was missed and no charge even if it should be No. 362 ...... 39¢ necessary to retake the complete test? No. 364 ...... 28¢ Some members have thought that the only No. 371 ...... 39¢ reason for theAWI examinations is to make money on No. 377 ...... 39¢ the enrollment fees. This is not true and, as we No. 379 ...... 44¢ explained above, all retakes are free. There is a cost No. 389 ...... ·--··- ·-······················ ·········· .. ······ ·· ·- 38¢ No. 392 ...... 24¢ to AWI of the test clock replacement movements, and No. 397 ...... - ...... 36¢ they are sent out only two times, and then they are No. 399 ...... 39¢ replaced with new ones. Watch test movements need No. 2016 ...... 61¢ replacing after using just three times. Wholesale Distributors of: DO CUSTOMERS REALLY CARE Diamonds, Jewelry, and IF WE ARE CERTIFIED OR NOT? Jewelers' & Watchmakers' Supplies! Your customers probably do not care, as they may not know the difference. They just want a profes­ sional job, and our certification helps to assure our TOLEDO customers that they will receive this professional job. JEWELERS I guess we should change the answer to yes and say 245 Twenty Third Street the customer really does care about our qualifica­ Toledo, OH 43624 tions; that is, when they really know what they are and what they mean. I hope this will answer some of the questions 24-Hour Toll Free Ordertng 1(800) 537-0260 that have been asked by our readers, Ifyou need more Order Now ... Fax (419) 241-4594 information on this subject, please write or call AWI Central. 0

March 1993/Horological Times 23 Pickle Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR Useful Tools We will continue our discussion on basic necessary ringsizing). Holding tools are available for most anyjob, tools, and then go on to tools that are useful and but if a job can be held with the fingers or with pliers, it timesaving (even though not absolutely necessary) to is much faster than setting it up in some type of a perform the functions in jewelry repair. holding tool. A lot of good craftsmen just have a love for tools. The RING CLAMP (Figure 1) is necessary in They buy tools just because of this love, and many of the doing ring work with plain uniform width rings or tools are never used to produce enough revenue to pay tapered shank and stone set rings. It is a simple, easy­ for their cost. I fall into this category myself; probably to-use holding device with leather inlay inside the half or more of the tools that I've purchased were only holdingjaws that will not mar a finished surface when used a few times, then put away and forgotten. That is, clamped to hold while working. It will hold work while until a problem arose that could be easily solved by filing, cutting with gravers, or even for setting stones. using the tool. After its use for this one job, I'd put the Although not a timesaver over holding with the fingers, tool away until needed again. they are surely a finger-saver and very little extra time Sometimes many of these tools make the work is needed to use these than to hold with the fingers. more time-consuming than to just do the work without The WffiE CLAMPING DEVICE (Figure 2) is them. Measuring tools are necessary, but with experi­ a very useful holding tool. It is used for many holding ence some of us can learn to "eyeball" a job. Taking a situations where constant pressure is needed while piece out or adding a piece without measuring is much soldering, but with a weak enough spring that it will not faster than measuring and marking a layout before exert enough pressure to cause the metal to distort. It cutting a piece to add or cutting out a place (such as in can even be used to hold engagement rings and wedding bands in alignment while soldering the bottom of the shanks together. This tool was invented and designed by our current AWI President, Wes Door. The SMALL BENCH VISE (Figure 3) is a must, and has many uses. I like the one illustrated, for it can be used without being attached to the bench, or

Figure 1. Ring clamp.

Figure 2. Wire clamping device. Figure 3. Bench vise.

24 Horological Times/March 1993 Movado Always in Motion

By

Fritz von Osterhausen

Translated to English by Bernhard W. Stoeber

Ml The following series of articles is a translation history of horology, and has previously pub­ of a publication which appeared first in Vol­ lished an excellent book on wristwatch-chro­ umes 3 and 4 (1991) of the German magazine nometers. The translation was prepared for Alte Uhren und moderne Zeitmessung (Old the Horological Times by Bernhard W. Stoeber, Watches and Modern Timing Technology), Technical Service Manager ofNorth American Callwey Publishing, Munich. The author, Mr. Watch Corporation, the parent company of Fritz von Osterhausen, is widely known in Movado. Europe for his various contributions to the Movado Always in Motion PARTl

The name "Movado" has become synony­ was a very popular trade at this time. sheim family, Samuel, who died in 1887, mous with well-made, reliable, quality Prior to the turn of the century (1895), La was able to witness the founding of the timepieces at affordable prices. In addi­ Chaux-de-Fonds had more than 600 en­ company in 1881. His fourth son Achille tion to being at the forefront of technical gravers and was the center of their craft. established it in La Chaux-de-Fonds (Rue innovations, this company has been the Abraham died in 1877 at the 1 er Mars No. 13) and employed six arti­ recipient of many awards for their cre­ early age ofl 9. One year before his death, sans. This building still exists today (see ative and sometimes extravagant watch the rest of the family had left the Alsace Figure 1). It is a typical three-story house designs. The history ofMovado is closely to join him. It appears that the Ditesheim with limestone corners, a ground floor related to the history of the Ditesheim family left the Alsace because ofthepoliti­ with high ceilings, and a double pitched family. The company, which ultimately callyunstablesituationinAlsace-Lorrain roof. They were built by the hundreds became Movado, was established by the after the Prussian-Franco War of 1870- afterthedevastatingfireofl794, and still Ditesheims. They built its reputation and 71. TheannexationoftheAlsaceby Prussia dominate today's picture ofthe town in its owned it for almost 100 years. created a lot of unrest in France, and by simplistic monotony. Small businesses This family from La Chaux-de­ 1876, the possibility of a new war was flourished then as they do today on the Fonds in Switzerland originally came from already openly discussed. ground floors of these apartment build­ Hegenheim/Alsace, France, and was com­ Because of resentments in the ings. Most likely, it was on the ground pletelydedicated towatchmaking. In 1812 population towards immigrants, the floor ofthe above-mentioned building that Samuel Ditesheim, the father of the Ditesheim family had difficulties to settle Achille Ditesheim established his watch Movado founding father's generation, was in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Swiss citizenship company. born in Hegenheim. His wife, Theresa, 21 wasgrantedtothefamilynotinLaChaux­ The circumstances surrounding years his junior, gave him seven sons. de-Fonds, but rather it was obtained in the founding of the company are not com­ Louis, the youngest, died when he was 13 the little neighboring village of Cerneux­ pletely clear. There is a second version years old. All remaining brothers learned Pequignot that same year (1876). They that the company had been established in a trade related to watchmaking: Leopold accomplished this surprisingly fast, since 1890 by the three Ditesheim brothers (1860-1933), Achille (1862-1944), and most immigrants had towaitseveral years Achille, Leopold, and Isidore (Revue Isidore (1868-1941) became watchmak­ to become Swiss citizens. Internationale de l'Horologerie et des ers;Abraham(1858-1877)andisaac(1860- At this point, we would like to branches annexes 1906, pg. 582 ff.). 1928) became engravers; and Aron (1864- mention that another family of watch­ Based on available documents, 1944) learned the trade of the makers, also by the name Ditesheim, we know only that the location of the "Guillocheur," the craft of engine-turning came from the village of Hegenheim/ workshop changed frequently in the first watch cases, bezels, dials, etc. Alsace. Their most famous member is the few years. The ground floor of the building Abraham, theoldestson, was the well-known chronometer-maker Paul Rue 1 er Mars No. 13 was not suitable for first to move to the Swiss Jura as the (1868-1945). However, this particular fam­ expansion, and could not accommodate a "Quarter-master" for the rest of the fam­ ily immigrated one generation earlier to fast-growing watch company. An address ily. He settled in La Chaux-de-Fonds and La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1834. book of 1892 gives as location the Rue opened up an engraving workshop. This The head of the Movado-Dite- Demoiselle No. 4 7, and in 1900 the Rue de

Figure 1. The building at Rue 1 er mars, No. 13, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where the watch com­ pany Achille Ditesheim was established.

M3 la Serre No. 61 is mentioned. It was only ees regardless ofhis young age of 19 years in the area during the same time period. in 1905 that the final location had been and his inexperience is not known. It was The following are just a few examples: established. By then, the company had common thatyoungcraftsmenstayed with Omega started out in La Chaux-de-Fonds built its own factory at Rue du Pare No. their masters after their apprenticeship, in 1848. So did Girard-Perregaux (1856), 117. or established only small workshops by Breitling (1884), and Paul Ditesheim The reason why Achille estab­ themselves. Probably, he was inspired by (1892). In Le Locle, it was Ulysse Nardin lished his own company with six employ- the founding of many similar businesses (1846), Tissot (1853), Zenith (1865), and Doxa (1889). Longines was founded in St. Imier (1867), Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus (1875), Heuer in Bienne (1860), Eterna in Grenchen (1856), and IWC, as the only company outside the Swiss Jura, inSchaflhausen(1868).LeCoultrestart.ed in Le Sentier (1833), and Patek Philippe in Geneva (1838). WasitAchille'snaturetobemore daring than his contemporaries? Prob­ ably, yes. However, he must have gained strength also from the support provided by his family. This unity is confirmed by the fact that three of the brothers (Leopold, Isaac, and Achille) married three sisters from the same family (Levy, from St. Die/ Vosges, France). Ne'i·ertheless, it took five, respectively six years, until the broth­ ers Leopold and Isidore joined the com­ pany. Leopold had moved first to Brussels and worked there as a watchmaker, and Isidore hadjust finished his watchmaker's apprenticeship at the age of 19. The com­ pany was called from then on L.A.I. Ditesheim, using the initials of the three brothers. Apparently, Leopold remained in Brussels and supervised the first branch office of the young enterprise in addi ti on Figure 2. Chronometer certificate issued by to being its commercial director. A second the Neuchatel Observatory in December 1899 subsidiary was established soon after in for a pocket chronometer manufactured by Paris. ThemanagerinchargewasSalvator LA.I. Ditesheim. Levy, who possibly was a relative from the same family of Achille's, Isaac's, and Leopold's wives. The young watch manufacturing company grew fast. Thirty people were employed by 1890, and this figure in­ creased to 80 in 1897. For example, Le Coultrewas in 1889, with 100 employees, Figure 3. Mantel clocks, made by Movado the largest enterprise in the neighboring around 1910. Canton of Vaud. Audemars Piguet held

M4 third place with only 10 employees. The ment for small wristwatches, and the Isaac, the engraver, had operated together three brothers had apparently prevailed other a 19-ligne size for gent's pocket with Aron ("guillocheur") an engraving despite the numerous and fierce competi­ watches. At about the same time, the shop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which was tion in the region. Unfortunately, very company marketed the very precise, so­ considered by many of their peers as one little is known about the products which called "showcase-clocks" (montres a of the leading shops ofi ts kind in Switzer­ were manufactured in the early years. vitrine), which were produced with wooden land. It is possible that he took over the An advertisement in 1892 stated cases (similar to deck watches) and also shop from his oldest brother Abraham only "specialite de mouvements en tous as little table clocks with ornamental who died when Isaac was 16 years old. An genres"--that is, the manufacturing of all metal cases (Figure 3). An advertisement address book of the year 1900 described sorts of movements. Mainly gent's pocket from the year 1913 describes the product the program of this shop as follows: I. watches, butalsoalarger-than-usualper­ line of the company as follows: "Montres Ditesheim et Frere, Decoration de Boftes et centage of ladies' pocket and pendant a ancre 9 a 22 lig.(nes) avec et sans Cuvettes or, Finissage de Bottes . . . watches were produced. In addition, the complications. Extra plates qualitesoignee Specialite de ramolayes et (aeons Ditesheims were involved in the produc­ 9 a 22." [Watches with Swiss-lever escape­ ramolayes. Monogrammes rapportes. De­ tion ofhigh-precision chronometer pocket ments from 9 to 22 lignes with and cors a la machine, riches et ordinaires. watches which were submitted to the without complications. Ultra-thin and fine Isaac had, therefore, experience official Swiss Bureau of Precision quality movements from 9 to 22 ligne. with a technique called "ramolaye" (a Timekeeping in St. Imier. Pocket watches B.W.S.J kind of chasing) which was used to deco­ tested at these bureaus (there were only The year 1905 was important in rate watch cases. He was also very versed four at this time in Switzerland) were the development of the Ditesheim com­ inengravingmonograms and engine-turn­ subject to severe procedures, which were pany, as three major changes took place: ing of watch cases. Because of his previ­ precisely defined. Only when passing these The first was the construction of new, ous success he was certainly capable of exams within certain tolerances, a chro­ modern facilities at the outskirts of La investing a larger sum into the company, nometer certificate was issued. In 1899, Chaux-de-Fonds at the Rue du Pare No. moneywhich wasverywelcometofinance 30 certificates were awarded to watches 117. The site waschosenforits proximity the construction of the new facilities. made by the Ditesheims, and four of them to the town, but also allowed the construc­ The third change in 1905 was the were ranked to place 8 to 11 among 582 tion offurther additions. The factory was decision to use a new company name entries. planned to house "state-of-the-art" manu­ independent of the owner's family name; From 1899 on, the Ditesheims facturing equipment for 150 employees, the name was MOVADO. This is at least participated with their own pocket watches and safety engineering played an impor­ the generally accepted version (also used in the Chronometer Competition of the tant role. For example, heavy equipment by the company its elf) as far as the year of Neuchatel Observatory. In December of (drills, presses, etc.) was driven by trans­ introduction of the Movado name is con­ the same year, a Chronometer Certificate mission belts, which ran at that time cerned. The fact that Isaac joined the was issued (Figure 2) for a pocket watch, normally without protection above the company in the same year may have played serial #1904, made by L.A.1. Ditesheim. heads of the workers. These belts were a role. However, the announcement of the This watch featured a Swiss lever escape­ specially insulated and protected to allow registration of the new company's name ment and a hairspring with two terminal a smoother, less noisy, and safe opera­ on May 3, 1903 was published already two curves based on the designs and calcula­ tion. The majority of the equipment came years earlier in the Swiss Journal of tions by Phillips. This certificate was one from the USA. Special attention was also Commerce (Figure 6). of22awarded tothecompanyin 1899,and paid to the working conditions of the six were "Class I" certificates. employees, which were far ahead of their Furthermore, the company fo­ time. Furthermore, a technical depart­ cused very early on the production of ment for the research and development of wristwatches, especially ladies' wrist­ new calibers based on scientific methods watches. It is said that in 1895, a ladies' was setup in a separate building together wristwatch with cylinder escapement had with a special department for the preci­ been produced. However, the company sion timing of the finished products on a put more emphasis in the development of large scale. ladies' wristwatches with Swiss lever es­ These and more details were re­ capement. After the introduction of elec­ vealed in an article published to com­ trically powered machines in 1897, it was memorate the inauguration of the new possible to grind and polish train wheel facilities (Revue Internationale de jewels and palette jewels in large quanti­ l'Horologerie et de branches annexes, Pg. ties. Around the turn of the century, the 582 m. This is one of the rare publications general public viewed ladies' wristwatches about the activities of the otherwise pub­ as pieces ofjewelry rather than precision licity-shy Ditesheim family. timekeepers. Often, more efforts were This factory building still exists put into esthetically pleasing designs than today. It was enlarged in 1948 by another into the improvement of the timekeeping. annex (Figure 4) because of the growth of Movado can be credited with being one of the company. (With over 300 employees, the first companies concerned with the Movado was then one of the largest enter­ Figure 4 (next page). Large picture: the improvement of precise timekeeping of prises in the Canton of Neuchatel). In Movado factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Rue ladies' wristwatches. These efforts lead, 1990, the Canton of NeuchAtel had it du Pare 117, around 1948. after 1910, to significant results as we renovated and redesigned as an office Figure 5 (inset). The building of the former will see later. building (Figure 5). Movado factory around 1990. Two especially thin calibers with The second major change in 1905 Swiss-lever escapement were introduced was that Isaac (twin brother of Leopold) around 1901; one was an 11-ligne move- joined the company of the three brothers.

MS ------

USINE A LA CJ-L\UX-OE-FONDS , METROPOLE HORLOGER.E I ' "

..· I . .· ·...... · .· ...... - .• . =' ••• In the beginning the two names calibers. This is confirmed by the large would often be used together as Fabrique amount ofladies' wristwatches still to be Movado L.A.I. Ditesheim & Frere. This found today, which were made between was the case for the registration of a 1910 and 1920 with an almost endless patent on December 1, 1905 for a special variety of round, oval, octagonal-shaped system to attach the hairspring stud to cases. Most of these round or oval watches the balance bridge as shown in Figure 7. used the 8-1/2-or 10-ligne movement cali­ The new company name ber 105 and 150MN. The majority had "Movado" derives from the artificial uni­ "Chronometre" printed on the dial, which versal language Esperanto, which was should not be taken too seriously. The developed by the ophthalmologist Ludwig first official norms for wristwatch-chro­ Zamenhof of Warsaw. The word means nometers were established in Switzer­ "always in motion." There had been nu­ land (as the first country) only in 1926. merous very active Esperanto circles in The larger portion of the movements' cali­ La Chaux-de-Fonds at that time. The ber 150MN (and probably also caliber choice of this motto does not only reflect 105) were engraved" 4 four adjustments," the essential notion ofa watch but also the which indicates the adjustment of the entrepreneurial spirit of the Ditesheim daily rate in two temperatures and two brothers. positions. The first official symbol of the On the other hand, it was a nov­ company was a hand holding in its palm elty to regulate whole series of small an open-face pocket watch. Later, the "M" wristwatch movements to almost chro­ __ .. ______was introduced as a second company sym­ nometer standards. In this respect, ·...... ------. bol and was used on dials. The hand Movado was a pioneer, and the achieve­ --~ · symbol has been adopted as the hallmark ments of the company in this field have -· ----; on the inside of casebacks . One of the first not been sufficiently acknowledged. It is products, manufactured at the new facili­ possible that most Movado calibers with ---·--=--= ties, was a 5-1/2-ligne ladies' wristwatch four or five adjustments (besides the cali­ ~:.:::-~ ---~~~ caliber, and an 8-1/2-ligne medium-sized bers 105 and 150MN, and 10-1/4-ligne I-·------caliber (probably caliber 105), both with caliber 470 should be mentioned) have Swiss-lever escapements. been marked as "Chronometers." Most likely, it was the responsi­ bility oflsaac to design new cases and to develop new styles in extravagant shapes and with fancy decorations for these new

-----=--._..._...._. __--, _.._..._-._..-____ -.... ------._._---- ..-- --. Figure 6. Advertisement with the new company name MOVADO, N° 15785. - 2 mai 1903, 8 h. published in the Swiss Journal of Commerce in 1903. L. A. & J. Di t e s h e i m, fabricants, Chaux-de-Fonds (Suisse). 1'1ontres, parties de m.ontres et etuis. MOVA DO

C 0 :N" F l~ D E RAT IO N SUI S SE Figure 7. Patent issued on December 1, 1905 for a special system to attach the hairspring stud to the balance bridge. BUREAU FEDERAL DE LA PROPRIETEINTELLECTUELLE

. d ' .... +/' . EXPOSE D'INVENTION I I ' Breret N" 34976 Classe 64

Frtbrique Mornclo 1 . A. J. DITESHEnJ & frere, Chuux.-de-Fonds (Suisse).

Cori Ile montre.

Le dc;;sin annexe, clo1111e it titre ll"excmpk, Crttc dis pos itio n est a rn11 tag-e use surtilllt rcpL·escnte, en plC la et tle 1·aquette p1J11\·a11t y etrc adaptcs, pe11- .-;urfacc .;1rp1:ricurc de cc co•[· t telle po1·tc-piton cl'u11c epai;;seu1· plus g-rnndi; q11c r'[ll'ellc Pl'l"lll<:t cry llCl'C'L'l' 1·t taraui.!L'l' Lill troll l'epaisscut· tlc la pla11chc tlu1lit CL)'l ct tlo11t d, pcrirc111liculaire air tr1111 ,._ th11s lcq11cl un la. surface i11fe1·icurE' aftlcure b s11rfacc in­ peut placer lllll' Yis ,le tixari.,11 1!11 pit.rn. Lt ferieure de bdite planche, tautlis riuc :;a s1n·­ sudat:i: infi'.·1·icurc tk l'un:iik I,. aftlc-111·8 la facl' superi1'urc clt'.•pa:>sl.) la stn·face supe1·icure >r11·L<~L' i11leril'urc tle la plam:he ,. 1!11 Cl)C[. du C1lr[, cctte orcillc et:rnt llllllliC cl"u11 trn11 tandis <[llC la surface sup«·rit:11rt: tlc cl'ttL' tarantlt"• clcsti11c' ii rcccroir u11c Yis puur [,, 11t·cilk', ll1"·pas'<; l:t :;uri'acc >11p~riL'lll't: 1l11 C L.A. J. DIT ESHEDf ,\:fr0rL'.

r:ll[' IL'ttL' / (tig-. ~ ) repn'"L'11t1'T en \1•iintill1" ~fanJat:iirn: A. ~f.ATH!CY-DORET, CJ.aux-de-Fond,;, et 't'11 s'aj11,;te s11r lc co11 L"•111mc tl'll

M8 sizes of vises available. I have a larger 4-inch vise mounted on a solid bench that has many uses doing heavier work (such as holding drawplates when reduc­ ing wires and tubing). I The ENGRAVERS BLOCK (BALL) and AT­ TACHMENTS (Figure 4) is a very useful holding tool for other than engraving (even though it was designed by band engravers). It is made to rest in the.leather ring pad, and can be tilted to most any position. The top half can rotate on the bottom half which can be held with one hand and turned while using a graver or other tool in the other. Or, by using the pin shown in Figure 4, it can be Figure 4. Engraver's block and attachments. locked so both hands can be used. Although this is not a necessary tool, it makes many jobs much easier to handle. Although the jaws are hard metal, by us ing two pieces of leather 3/16" to 1/4" thick, a piece of jewelry with a screw that can be screwed in from the bottom can such as a ring can be chucked up on this without easily and quickly be attached. This vise can be used to marking the finest of finish, holding it securely to do hold most anything while filing or bending. I find it almost any work needed that requires secure holding. useful in making small angle strips of karat gold for With the attachments, discs, plates, small bars, or tubes replacing the point of marquise or pear settings. The can be chucked up securely. metal can be rolled to thickness and a strip up to the A BENCH PIN that can be mounted on the length of the jaws long can be clamped in the vise with edge of the bench (Figure 5) is a wedge-shaped piece of half of the width protruding, then bent over and ham­ hardwood that can be held in this metal holder fastened mered flat with the chasing hammer. to the edge of the bench, and is removable when not in For holding heavier work requiring a good bit of use. The one shown has a V-shaped slot cut in the end filing, the vise can be fastened to the bench, making it which allows better versatility in holding work for filing solid so a large file can be used with good pressure to or sawing. The V also makes a good rest for supporting remove the metal quickly. There are many shapes and the r ing clamp when using it for holding. Most all

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March 1993/Horological Times 25 Figure 5. Filing pin and bench mount. benches made especially for jeweler's work have a tapered hole on the edge for sticking the end of the ring mandrel in while using it as a holding device, thus leaving both hands free to do the work. The bench also has a rectangular hole in the edge that the filing block Figure 6. a) third hand tool; b) heavy-duty locking tweezers; c) tapered will fit into. This does away with the need of the metal carbon rod mount.eel. holder attached to the edge of the bench. The bench pin in Figure 5 shows much use, and you can see that it has been used to back up work being drilled. The TlllRD HAND TOOL (Figures 6, 7, and 8) nonasbestos material. This is an excellent method for does the work of an extra hand. It has a double ball holding the head and shank in perfect alignment while swivel that will allow the heavy-duty tweezers holding gold-soldering them together. The third hand tool is so work to be adjusted into any position needed. Figure 6 adjustable that with the double ball adjustments, the shows a piece of gold wire being matched with a prong tweezers can be turned, raised, or lowered to put the on a ring while heat is applied. This is an excellent way piece being held in any position necessary to match the to start doing prong replacement, but with experience piece it is to be soldered to. and practice these prongs can be put on using a steady Figure 8 shows another setup for using gold hand. This shows the ring being held in place with a wire to replace a prong on a ring. Notice that the ring is mounted tapered carbon rod. This mounted tapered rod being held in place by a pair of slide-lock tweezers that is also a tool that has many uses. is weighed down with a steel block. The third hand tool The carbon will stand heat without deteriorat­ holds another pair of tweezers clamping the wire to be ing.Not being a good conductor ofheat, rings can be put soldered on the ring head being easy to put in place by on this and gold solder work done on them. They are the versatility of the third hand tool. This leaves both especially useful when using an electric soldering ma­ hands free, as you can see in the photo. The torch is chine instead of a torch. Figure 7 shows the heavy-duty shown being held with one hand, the other hand being tweezers holding a ring shank aligned with a new head free to make any alignment change needed while apply­ which is indented in the circular asbestos pad. Although ing heat. the use of asbestos has been discontinued because it is The steel block in Figure 8 is one of the most said to cause cancer, a similar pad is available using a used tools that I have. It was very inexpensive because

Figure 7. Third hand tool. Figure 8. Setup for installing prong.

26 Horological Times/March 1993 it was picked up in ajunkyard. It is handy for bammer­ ingout metal for spreading or straightening, or backing HOT NEW OFFERING FOR up for riveting. With half-round grooves cut in it, ring shanks can be held and backed up for stamping karat THE CRYSTAL FITTER marks or identification marks without distorting the shape of the shank. PICKLE BOILING PANS (Figure 9) are use­ ful for one-person shops where it is not practical to keep 000 a pot of pickling solution hot during working hours. The CRYSTAL BLANKS use of pickling solutions is necessary when doing work Round unfinished mineral glass crystal blanks that you can use on any type cutting machine. All are 40mm in diameter, on nonferrous metals using heat and solders, for the available in thickness 0.7mm, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1 . 1.3, 1.6 and pickling solution dissolves any oxides that have devel­ 2.0mm. Please specify thicknesses wanted. Mix'em up oped from the heat and air. Manufactured pickle pans for quantity pricing. 09601 O - 1 o pieces ...... $ 6.00 are available from your jewelry material supplier as 096020 • 50 pieces ...... $25.00 shown in Figure 9-C. However, you can easily make 096030 • 100 pieces ...... $40.00 your own by getting copper pipe caps from any plumbing supply house. Figure 9-A shows the copper pipe cap and a length of 3/16 brass rod. Figure 9-B shows the rod 'IJon 't !forget! silver-soldered to the cap, making a handle. The wooden handle is a piece of wooden dowling 'We liave tlie [argest inventory of drilled in the end with a hole slightly smaller than the watcli materia{ anywliere! diameter of the rod. It is driven on, making a tightly fit handle for holding it over the flame of the torch while boiling the pickle solution with the item in it to be QUARTZ WATCHES pickled. To pickle an item by boiling requires only about a minute to bring it to boil, and then let it boil for only a few more seconds. You will obtain the same results if you soak it in a cold pickle solution for 10 to 30 minutes. Electric pickle pots are available through jew­ elry supply channels in the price range of $50-$140, depending on their size and capacity. They are thermo­ statically controlled to maintain a temperature lower tban the boiling point ofwater. Ifdoing continuous work in larger volumes, these are very convenient. An alter­ native to this is to go to a department, hardware, or general merchandise store and buy a small crock pot for SAILOR ELEGANT $10-$15, which will serve just as well. The Nautical look in gents Just the right combination of Pickling solutions are dilute sulphuric acid or and ladies stainless steel yellow and white in a watch. case and band. Bezel is Flexible stainless steel band similar chemicals, and will not dissolve copper, glass, or ri nged by yellow rope with with alternate band of yellow ceramics; you can see why copper should be used for holders made to give the fitted to a white case impression of a porthole. with yellow bezel and Al so yellow crown and inlays crown. Quartz movement, in the band. Quartz adjustable band and movement, adjustable available in ladies and gents band . size. A Gents Gents 143185 ...... $15.95 ea. 143187 ...... $15.95 ea. Ladies Ladies 143186 ...... $15.95 ea. 143188 ...... $15.95 ea. S. ,I/a'i{J~Inc. 'Worftfwitfe 'lJistrifiutors to J{orofogists ---~

March 1993/Horological Times 27 boiling pans. It is also a good idea to use copper tweezers file. The best way to ensure long life for tools is to never for holding the work when dipping in or removing work abuse them, unles.s you're ready to replace them. from the solutions when using the pot. Steel can be I've bad requests come in on drawplates and dissolved in the pickle, thus contaminating it. drawtongs, so this will be our main discussion in next month's article. MAINTENANCE OF TOOLS The tools in these photos show use, for most of them have never been replaced; some have been used for over 40 years. Most of these tools require very little care or AWi maintenance, other than being protected from damp­ ness (as steel will rust). The joints of pliers need a little MATERIAL SEARCH oil from time to time. The tips sometimes get slightly NETWORK bent, but you can close these by holding them on a steel block and hammering the ends to straighten so that they will close tightly. They can then be dressed with EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can emery cloth, using coarse on the insides of the jaws, as supply any of the items listed here, please send details this leaves a rough finish that will grip better. Tools to the Material Search Network. Do not send the made of steel are made of tool steel and hardened, but items. Members requesting these items will be ad­ they are not hardened flint hard as files are. Therefore, vised of their availability and w1ll contact you direct. some tools such as pliers need the ends reshaped, then filed or stoned using carborundum, India or Arkansas KK3 Buren, Caliber 368, Balance Complete, Flat stones. Carborundum or India stones are available in Hairspring. two grits. They are also available in coarse on one side and fine on the other, called combination stones. Files If you can supply any of these items, please contact: should be kept clean and rust-free to cut well. A file AWi Material Search Network, cleaner is available which is a small paddle with small AWi Central, wires protruding vertically from one flat side (approxi­ P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 mately 3/16" long). These do a good job of cleaning the

KANSAS The Kansas City Watchmakers Guild is sad to note the passing of Robert McKnight of Kansas City, MO. Robert was a charter member of KCWG and was a CALIFORNIA primary force in the establishment of the guild. Mr. McKnight served as director of the Kan­ sas City School of Watchmaking from 1971to1986, and was a Certified Master Watchmaker. The Kansas City Watchmakers Guild has established a college education fund for the children of Robert McKnight, and would appreciate help in providing for the future of Robert's children. Tax deductable donations may be sent to: Robert McKnight Memorial Education Fund, c/o Citizens-Jackson County Bank, 260 North Oldham Pkwy., Lee's Sum­ mit, MO 64081.

UPCOMING CONVENTIONS June 4-6, 1993 North Carolina Watchmaker's Association Annual Convention A 2-day workshop on the· new Omega Chronograph was Holiday Inn North -- Raleigh, NC held at Howard Johnson in San Diego on January 16-17, 1993. David Fenwick, Technical Advisor for the Swiss October 8-1 0, 1993 Watch Technical Center in Lancaster, PA, presented the 2- Illinois State Watchmakers day workshop for the San Diego Horological Society. Annual Convention Pictured, left to right: Carl Goldberg, David Fenwick, and Clock Tower Inn -- Rockford, IL Henry Fuhrer.

28 Horological Times/March 1993 AWl'S 1993 LIBRARY INDEX m Precision Crystal Cutting Co. AVAILABLE LfgJ A 1993 edition of the library index of all books ''For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" in the AWI-ELM Charitable Trust Henry B. Fried Library is now available upon request. The index of 55 pages is divided into three SAME DAY sections: SERVICE

Section I Lists books in alphabetical SATI~WACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK order by titles Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter Section II Lists books in alphabetical All Major Crystals With 10 Years Experience order by authors Section III Books are grouped into LOWEST subject areas Prices in the Country AWI Members may borrow books from the SlllP TO: Reference & library without charge. They may also receive Precision Crystal Cutting a copy of the 1993 index by sending a mailing Price List 23940 Eureka On Request label and $1.00 to: Taylor, MI 48180 Library Index AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 (313) 287-3480 Cincinnati, OH 45211 FAX (313) 287-9210 (24 hrs.)

FOUNTAIN PENS WANTED

I WISH TO PURCHASE PENS BY PARKER & WATERMAN WITH FILIGREE METAL OVERLAY & MOTHER OF PEARL INLAY MADE BETWEEN 1900-1930 ALONG WITH OTHER HIGH-GRADE UN­ USUAL OLDER PENS. PENS MUST BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION FREE OF CRACKS & DENTS FOR THESE PRICES. DAMAGED PENS ALSO WANTED ALONG WITH PARTIAL PENS AT LOWER PRICES.

PAYING $7,000 +UP FOR PARKER OR L.E. WATERMAN SNAKE PEN

CLEVES & LONNEMANN JEWELERS STORE: (606) 261-3636 Charles Cleves 319 FAIRFIELD AVE., BELLEVUE, KY 41073 HOME: (606) 491-0354 WATCHE~ By George Hite

HAMILTON 505 Compensation Procedure for Index Wheel and Endpiece Wear

The 505 Hamilton Electric has a balance wheel like upper pivot of the index wheel uses a conventional the conventional watch that uses a mainspring as a hole jewel, and the lower pivot, held in position by the power source to drive the train. A coil on the balance lower jewel, makes electrical contact with the upper wheel of the 505 is momentarily impulsed electro­ side of the insulated endpiece. The lower side of the magnetically to advance the index wheel, held at rest endpiece with its recess makes contact with the by two index magnets, by precisely one tooth for each insulated cell lead that connects directly to the complete cycle of the balance wheel. This index battery. When the gold or platinum contact pin on the wheel, in conjunction with the balance wheel, is balance wheel makes momentary contact with the identical in principle to the quartz watch which uses index wheel, the current flows from the battery a stepping motor driven by a precise power source to through the cell lead, the endpiece, the lower pivot of advance the train in stepped increments. A simplified the index wheel, the contact pin and coil on the description of the 505 is presented to provide only the balance wheel, and finally to the positive of the basics necessary to explain this procedure. Hamilton battery via the hairspring, the balance bridge, and Service Bulletin 220 is recommended for detailed pillar plate to complete the circuit. information. The space between the index wheel and the A simplified side view of the index wheel of a index magnets is optimized to provide sufficient 505 in good running order is shown in Figure 1. The magnetic force to maintain the index wheel in the rest position. When the contact pin on the balance wheel makes contact with the index wheel, the resulting Figure 1 electrical current surge magnetically induces a force on the balance wheel that exceeds the force main­ taining the index wheel in the rest position. This advances the index wheel by one tooth where it again INDEX remains at rest until the next cycle of the balance PINION wheel. INDEX Since no lubrication is permitted between the WHEEL lower pivot of the index wheel and the endpiece, with time the metal-to-metal contact wear will reduce the distance between the index wheel and its magnets. PILLAR PLATE This will increase the magnetic attraction and hold the index wheel more fmnly in the rest position. The force required by the balance wheel will increase and the watch will eventually stop because the balance wheel will have insufficient impulse to advance the INDEX index wheel. MAGNET Moderate index pivot and endpiece wear will cause the 505 to work erratically for a short time when the crown is set from the setting to the running

30 Horological Times/March 1993 Figure 2 PERFECT FIT CRYSTAL COMPANY

position. The current drain in a 505 in good condition will average 5 to 10 microamperes and remain con­ stant. Withawornpivotand/orendpiece, thecurrent will initially be at this current drain and then either "Buy Direct" start increasing appreciably or drop to zero. With excessive wear, the index wheel will almost rest on the magnets. No More Ifwe consider the index wheel and the contact pin as a momentaiy off-on switch, the amount of time this switch is on will increase with index wheel and Middleman! endpiece wear because of the increased magnetic attraction. At times the switch remains on with the balance wheel at rest and the current drain rises to .approximately 400 microamperes. Since gradual de­ PFC Mineral Crystals terioration of the contact pin on the balance wheel is a problem under ideal conditions, index wheel and endpiece wear accelerates this process with increased 50 popular sizes: $29.95 current drain. If the 505 is in good condition, especially the 100 popular sizes: $49.95 balance wheel and its contact pin, compensation for this index wheel and I or endpiece wear, if not exces­ sive, can be done by raising the lower index wheel jewel to normalize the space between the index wheel and its magnets. This can be accomplished by using Refills available a Seitz jeweling tool, shown in Figure 2, which is ideal since it has a depth gauge calibrated in increments 12 - 36mm: $12 dozen of 0.01 mm per division. A special metal movement holder, whose dimensions are shown in Figure 3, was made to hold the movement securely and allow the balance to remain on the watch during the proce­ Minimum Order $25 dure. MasterCard, VISA, or COD only To obtain access to the index jewel, it is necessary to remove the cell lead and the endpiece. Considerable time and effort can be avoided by removing only the cell lead screw and its insulating washer adjacent to the endpiece. Loosen but do not CALL OR FAX remove the other cell lead screw and move the cell lead and its insulator so the index wheel jewel is fully exposed. Caution is required in handling the small 1 (800) 423-4256 endpiece. Place the movement holder with the 505 inserted securely on the Seitz jeweling tool platform

March 1993/Horological Times 31 usingSeitzpusherNo. 115.AsshowninFigure 1, the lower index wheel jewel is positioned approximately Figure 3 0.2 mm higher than the lower side of the pillar plate. To move the jewel up a precise amount, it is necessary to obtain a reference point. Position the pusher by adjusting the depthing gauge so that it barely makes contact with the pillar plate adjacent to the jewel. Record the Seitz gauge reading which will vaiy de­ pending on the size ofthe movement holder. With the dimensions ofthe movement holder, shown in Figure fo 3, the gauge reacting repeatedly comes out 45. Posi­ tion the pusher over the index wheel jewel and lower the pusher 0.25 mm by setting the gauge to 20. Insert the endpiece with the flat side contacting the index wheel and recess contacting the cell lead; then connect the cell lead to evaluate if this procedure makes the 505 work properly. If it does not, remove the endpiece and the cell lead and repeat this proce­ dure, but do not raise the index jewel by more than 0.03 mm (3 small divisions) each time. Ifthe 505 does not work, do not repeat this procedure more than Material: Brass Tolerance: 3 Place Decimal ±0.001 three to four times for the jewel may be pushed out. With the movement holder shown in Figure 3, the balance can remain in place and the 505 can be evaluated immediately after the endpiece and cell the index jewel to obtain the proper spacing between lead are installed. the index wheel and its magnets. After inserting the Since the correct height of an index wheel is endpiece and connecting the cell lead, check the approximately 2.60 mm, another (or a second) alter­ spacing between the index wheel and magnets. Ex­ native procedure is to measure the height of the worn amining a 505 in good working order without the index wheel. The amount the lower index jewel needs balance wheel would be very helpful in recognizing to be raised (pushed) is the difference between the the proper spacing. With experience and patience, it height of the worn index wheel and the correct height is possible to use this method with success by visibly of 2.60 mm. This procedure could be best since it determining how much to raise the jewel. restores the critical spacing between the index wheel This procedure can salvage many 505s since and its magnets close to their original position. this ingenious and complex index wheel and endpiece After successfully fixing a number of 505s are not readily available and unlikely ever to be using this procedure, an alternative method was produced again. Although the contact pin wear on evaluated. The 505 was first cleaned, oiled, and the balance is a more serious problem, this proce­ assembled completely without the balance. This dure could extend the life of the contact pin since makes it easy to see the endshake of the index wheel moving the index wheel changes the position where and the critical spacing between it and its magnets. the contact pin engages the index wheel. After removing the cell lead and the endpiece, raise This procedure would not have been possible without the help of Rene Rondeau who famili~ized me with the basic problem. Special thanks to Stanley C. Scheier who questioned my initial idea of inserting a washer between the index wheel and the endpiece 700 and suggested that moving the index jewel would be State more practical. I am also deeply grateful to Hal Street Herman, Gary Ware, James W. Peghiny, and Hous­ ton A. Rogers who reviewed this procedure and made ~ many helpful suggestions and corrections. I am very Quincy indebted to my wife, Mary, who typed the first draft, IL to Paul G. Cadieux and Joseph M. Inglis for the Gem City College 62301 computerized drawings and typesetting, and Ber­ nard Levowich for his mechanical design support. Where Time Can Equal Money In conclusion, I wish to make no claims that • Watchmaking • Jewelry (217) I was first to use this procedure on the 505. I can't •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- imagine that it has not been done before, since • Clock Repair Management 0391 jeweling is an old and well-established craft. D

32 Horological Times/March 1993 Book Review

THE CLOCK REPAIRER'S HANDBOOK by Laurie Pen­ man. 7x10", hardcovers, 176pages, 301 B&Wdraw­ ings, first published in 1985. Current printing 1992. High quality round mineral glass This good book is a virtual reprint even ifthe fine print crystals with polished edge. mentions "New Enlarged Edition." It differs from the Thickness: O.Smm ladies & 1.0mm for gents original in but a few paragraphs which have been edited out to make room for a new short comment. XTL-50 The contents, illustrations, page numbers, and two This 50-pc assortment contains one each of the minor original errors have not been changed a bit. When originally published, this book received most popular sizes from very good notices. Those who'd like to read the 17mm to 32mm in a clear original review might look into the March 1987 issue durable plastic box for of the Horological Times. The reviewer was the late Otto Benesh, a discriminating expert clockmaker only $34.95 who liked the book enough to say, "This book should be included in every clock repairer's library." Benesh found Penman's comments on lubri­ XTL-100 cation, use of cleansers, and a trouble-shooting Exceptional value for this 100-pc assortment of chart laudable. He did question the use of carbon high-quality crystals. Contains tetrachloride to clean platform escapements, yet he 1 of each from 12mm to thought there was enough positive information to 36mm in a clear durable make the above quote his opening statement in the review. plastic box. For those who have a copy of this book, there AT THIS LOW, LOW is no need to purchase this new printing. However, for those who do not own a copy, the good illustra­ PRICE OF $59.95 tions and text make it a worthwhile addition. Henry B. Fried D SMEA IS NOT ANOTHER CRYSTAL COMPANY. WE SPECIALIZE IN MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS Support AND OUR COMMITMENT FOR HIGH QUALITY AND LOW PRICES The AWi-ELM TRUST SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM CALL BY SENDING YOUR (800) 536-7632 OLD WATCH BATTERIES TO THE FOR YOUR

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS NEAREST INSTITUTE 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 DEALER

March 1993/Horological Times 33 The Apprentice Clockmaker

J.P. Kenyon, CMC

Clock Movement Maintenance Part II Examination of a Single Train 30-Hour Clock Movement

Prior to discussing the dismantling of a single train motive force is provided by a mainspring that is 30-hour clock movement, it will be helpful to exam­ made from a ribbon of tempered steel. The end of the ine individual components of the movement to de­ inner coil has an eye that fastens to a hook on the velop a full understanding of the function of each, winding arbor. The outer end is formed into a loop and how each fits into the total mechanism, individu­ which is fitted over a pillar post. In this arrangement, ally and collectively. Our approach will be to divide the winding arbor is designed to turn independently the movement into four major mechanical compo­ of the main wheel when the mainspring is being nents: Power, Transmission, Escapement, and Mo­ wound. A ratchet wheel (Figure 1 at U), which is tion Work. Each of these segments will be discussed. secured to the winding arbor, is held tightly against the main wheel by friction from a spring washer POWER located on the opposite side of the main wheel. A In our simple one-day movement, the power or pawl or click (V), that is free to rotate on a post

FIGURE 1. 30-Hour Time-Only Clock Movement.

A. main wheel B. second pinion c. center wheel D. third pinion H ---f--t--I E. third wheel F. fourth pinion F F· --J..--J:=~~~~r~~=::'.:.--..+-- L G. fourth wheel G G--+--- H. fifth pinion I. escape wheel J. coll spring E E--t-­ 1----1--M K. center arbor L. verge J R -1---!~..L__J. M. crutch c N. cannon pinion B Q-1---+~~ 0. shoulder p--1---+~~ P. minute wheel Q, minute pinion R. hour wheel s. hour pipe u. ratchet wheel v. cllck w. cllck spring I A A

34 Horological Times/March 1993 attached to one of the spokes of the main wheel, is pressed against the ratchet by a click spring (yY). E&L When winding the mainspring, the main wheel re­ mains stationary while the winding arbor is being IMPORT, INC. turned with a key in the direction permitted by the design of the pawl and ratchet wheel. This arrange­ SOK ment allows the pawl to slide over a ratchet wheel Sternkreuz tooth, dropping under the force of the click spring into the next tooth, and then to the next, and so on MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS - MST 13.0 - 34.0 mm/thickness 0.80 mm until the spring has been fully wound. When wind­ ing is completed, the pawl attached to a spoke of the NOW $l.50 each per dozen main wheel, and the ratchet wheel secured to the ONLY!!! $1.30 each per gross arbor, mesh to tum the main wheel so that energy can be transmitted through the train. The energy of the wound mainspring will cause the arbor to turn in the ROBDR. direction opposite to the winding action as indicated PLASTIC by the arrow in Figure 1. FINE QUALITY CRYSTALS MADE IN FRANCE TRANSMISSION $1.25 each per dozen Transmission refers to the means used to transfer $1.00 each per gross power from the mainspring to the escape wheel. In HIGH DOME TENSION RING STEP this movement, the main wheel (A) gears into the LOW DOME WATERPROOF ROUND FLAT second pinion (B) on which the second wheel or SEIKO & CITIZEN CRYSTALS center wheel (C) is fixed. In reality, this is the first QUARTZ MOVEMENTS-MIN. 50 PCS. pinion of the train, bu tin clockwork, for simplicity, a pinion carries the same number as that of the wheel (313) 353-4848 fixed to that arbor. Fax: (313) 358-1168 Southfiel The center arbor is fitted with a clutch assem­ bly so that the minute hand, which is attached to the center arbor, can be turned independently of the r------, center wheel and pinion, allowing the hands to be I I moved while the center wheel and pinion remain motionless. This is accomplished by using a coil IHas Your Address Changed?: spring CT) to hold the center wheel friction tight to a Please Notify I shoulder (0) on the center arbor (K). The friction is I loose enough so that the hands can be set, but tight American Watchmakers Institute I enough so that the center wheel and pinion will tum I with the arbor to tum the hands. If the clutch is too 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211 I tight, the minute hand will be bent or broken when I setting. If too loose, the hands will not tum with the I center wheel when the clock is running. Name I The train is designed to turn the center arbor ------, one revolution per hour. The center wheel (C) meshes OLD ADDRESS I with the third pinion (D) on the arbor to which the I third wheel (E) is fastened. The third wheel turns the Address ______I fourth pinion (F) on the arbor to which the fourth I wheel (G) is attached. The fourth wheel engages with ICity, State & Zip ______I the fifth pinion (H) on the arbor to which the escape wheel (I) is fastened and rotates it to transfer power : NEW ADDRESS l from the mainspring to the pendulum. : Address l ESCAPEMENT ICity, State & Zip I The escapement transfers the energy in impulses I I from the mainspring to the pendulum. It consists of I I (Please turn to page 37) L------~ March 1993/Horological Times 35 CLOCKS htAirW & Outl By Dewey Clark

BALANCE ASSEMBLIES PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION AND A LITI'LE HISTORY Part I: The Standard Compensation Balance

Very few watch repair persons know that the balance and deck watches are kept dial up for the sole purpose assembly complete we buy for $25 was the subject of 170 of avoiding position errors. years (approximately 1780 to 1950) of intense scientific For over 1-1/2 centuries, makers of balance­ study. Between 1725 and 1920, governments funded controlled timepieces were stymied by the problem of research on the balance much in the way that govern­ temperature compensation. Poise and isochronism were ments today fund research on defense systems or bio­ understood early on, but much work was needed to medical research. For example, the British government resolve the "problem of middle temperature error." provided grants through the Board ofLongitudethrough­ During this 150-year period (1780-1930), naval out the 18th and early 19th centuries. France and Spain power was the key to empire building. The essence of similarly funded chronometric research. The $25 bal­ naval power was the ability to navigate to designated ance complete that is most often purchased today, the areas consistently. The marine chronometer and sex­ monometallic balance with alloy hairspring, is the re­ tant provided ship commanders with this ability. As a sult of one scientist's efforts to create the perfect bal­ result, England, which became the undisputed naval ance. Dr. Charles Edouard Guillaume was awarded a superpower ofthe era, devoted considerable effort to the Nobel Prize in 1920 for the creation ofElinvar (many improvement of the balance assembly. The balances people mistakenly believe Hamilton created Elinvar). used in watches were civilian applications of leading And, even Dr. Guillaume received salary support for his military technology (chronometers) of the day. research from the Swiss government. This series of articles will describe some of the The balance unit must overcome many influ­ variations ofbalances that are encountered by restorers ences in order to keep perfect time. The most important ofhigh-grade carriage clocks, pocket chronometers, and of these influences is temperature. Position adjustment marine chronometers. Some of the information pro- is important, but temperature compensation is essen­ (Please turn to page 38) tial. A watch can be kept dial up, negating the need for balance poise; but ifthe balance is incorrectly compen­ sated for temperature, nothing can be done short of keeping the watch in an oven. Marine chronometers

Photo 1. Early Earnshaw balance from a chronometer by John Wood of Photo 2. Modern form ofEarnshaw balance from a chronometer by John Liverpool, c. 1810. Note the wedge-shaped weights and the wide gaps BlissofNewYork,c.1903. in the balance rim.

36 Horological Times/March 1993 the minute hand affixed to the center arbor, which THE APPRENTICE CLOCKMAKER turns once per hour. In operation, the hour hand is (Continued from page 35) required to turn one-twelfth of a revolution per hour. To accomplish this, another train of wheels and a verge and an escape wheel designed to allow power pinions designated as the motion work and having a to escape at a controlled rate while the hands advance ratio of twelve to one is used. The cannon pinion (N) to indicate the passage of time. is friction fitted to the center arbor (K). The cannon The escape wheel has ratchet teeth which are pinion drives the minute wheel (P) with the minute arranged to operate against the angular ends of a pinion (Q) attached, which turns on a stud fixed to the pivoted lever or verge (L). While one tooth of the plate. The minute pinion in turn drives the hour escape wheel forces the e~d of the verge, called a wheel (R}, which has a pipe (S) attached, that turns pallet, to escape from the wheel, the other pallet at the loosely on the center shaft. The hour han_d is fitted to opposite end of the verge moves in between two teeth the pipe of the hour wheel. This step-down gearing of the escape wheel. This action interrupts the progress arrangement, with a ratio of twelve to one, regulates of the wheel until the pendulum, which is connected the proportionate turns of the hour hand to show the to the verge by a crutch (M), completes its swing in correct time. one direction and begins to swing in the other direc­ The motion work, also referred to as the dial tion. Hence, an impulse is delivered to the pendu­ train, differs from the time train in that by design the lum. The action of the escape wheel is the same on pinionsarethedriversand thewheelsaredriven. The both pallets of the verge. Impulses are delivered to train can be formed by many different combinations the pendulum in opposite directions, resulting in the as long as the combined ratio equals twelve. pendulum oscillating with uniform motion as long as Now that we are familiar with clock nomen­ adequate motive force is delivered to the mechanism. clature and have an understanding of how the com­ ponents function, we will be ready to discuss the MOTION WORK proper method for dismantling a 30-hour time-only As discussed earlier, the movement is designed with movement in the next installment. O

I TOUR DATES FAST APPROACHING! MAY 3-19, 1993 (See last month's "Horological Times" for itinerary, page 11.)

A MESSAGE FROM The Fifth Land Harris clock collection housed in an equally HENRY B. FRIED famous mansion will be guided by Jonathan Bates, whose authoritative articles we have read. In the Prescott-Liverpool area, Mr. R. John For the 20th Annual Tour which I have designed for horologically Griffiths, curator of the Prescott Museum, will guide us.through that interested tourists and their friends, I have selected Great Britain, which institution as well as accompany us as our guide. The historic sites of for two centuries led the world in the art and science of horology. England and Scoijand are all included, since so many of these are in the Arrangements have been completed with our organizational areas of our horological visits as well. counterparts in the British Isles for special receptions, privately guided Reading through the formal itinerary and brochure should tours through the museums, and their workshops by their curators. satisfy many of your past wishes for such a tour. Meetings with the members and officers of the British Horological While in the Chester/Manchester area, we will be the guests Institute and the Antiquarian Horological Society, the counterparts of of the Antiquarian Horological Society, Northern Section, where their our American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute and the NAWCC, members will have arranged an exhibition of English timepieces from have been arranged. Thus, we will meet many of the authors of whom their members' collections. we have read about. Mr. Nick Larescu, president of the company conducting this A visit to Upton Hall, headquarters of the British Horological tour, has been bitten by the horological bug, and is now a member of Institute, should be most rewarding. Its setting is in a comparatively the AWi and the NAWCC. With our help, he is refining the itinerary so rural part of England, with its museum, workshops, student and that there will be something of special interest for everyone. teaching facilities, and its vast library; all should prove memorable. As in the past, first come, first served will be booked on our A tour through the Greenwich Observatory with its historically limited membership tour. So sign up early and let's have another good famous timepieces will be escorted by its curator. A visit to the Wallace time with the regulars (many of whom have already signed up!). Send collection and a special exclusive reception at the famed Southeby your inquiries to: Advantage Tours, 2017 Center Ave., Fort Lee, NJ Auction Galleries will be conducted there, with atalk by George Daniels, 07024. probably the world's most honored maker of complicated and beauti­ Horologically yours, fully hand-crafted watches. Henry B. Fried

March 1993/Horological Times 37 the balance unit. However, the balance rim gets smaller CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT because the free end ofthe bimetallic arms move inward (Continued from page 36} as temperature goes up. As a result, the diameter of the balance remains matched to the strength of the hair­ spring, giving a stable rate ofoscillation across tempera­ ture. The weights on the balance rim, whether in the form ofscrews (as found on railroad watches) or a single pair of very large weights (as found on chronometers), are very carefully distributed to provide the best tem­ perature compensation. Middle Temperature Error. The problem with the Earnshaw balance, whether in a railroad watch, chronometer, or wristwatch, is that the compen­ sation of the balance to the hairspring is correct at only two temperatures, typically 50 and 90 degrees Fahr­ enheit (See Figure 1). The balance assembly has a gaining rate at any temperature between those two temperature points, with a maximum gaining rate at the midpoint. In this example, the maximum gaining rate would be found at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. This is called the "Problem of Middle Temperature Error." It Phot.o 3. Earnshaw balance from an Illinois 60-hour Bunn Special, was first documented by E.J. Dent in the 1830s and was c. 1928. fully described in Dr. Guillaume's 1920 Nobel Prize address and in Rawlings' The Science of Clocks and vided will enable the restorer of these pieces of pass Watches. some knowledge on to the customer. Some of the infor­ The roots of middle temperature error were mation will provide assistance for those who desire to understood by 1840, but definitive solutions weren't adjust the balance. As will be seen, in some instances, it developed until Dr. Guillaume's Nobel Prize winning is essential to not re-poise a balance after replacing a work. Middle temperature error is a result of the fact staff. that the rate of change in the strength of steel hair­ Earnshaw Balance. The balance found in springs (Figure 2) is different than the rate of change in American railroad watches produced prior to 1931 is the the effective diameter of the bimetallic balance (Figure split rim brass and steel laminate compensating balance 3). When plotted graphically, the strength of the steel with steel hairspring, otherwise known as the Earnshaw hairspring against temperature forms a straight line Balance. While LeRoy is credited as the first to under­ while the effective diameter of the bimetallic balance stand theutilityofacompensation balance, it is Thomas across temperature forms a curve. It is theoretically Earnshaw (17 49-1829) who is credited with the present­ impossible for an Earnshaw balance to provide perfect day design of the bimetallic split rim compensation temperature compensation. balance. It is testimony to Earnshaw's genius that it The middle temperature error is small, usually remained the dominant balance design for chronom­ a 1-1/2 to 2 seconds per day difference between 50 and eters and watches for the next 150 years. See Photos 1, 70 degrees. However, as ship's speeds increased, this 2, and 3. source of error became increasingly troublesome to The principles behind this balance are simple. The effective diameter of the split brass and steel Figure 1. Rate of Earnshaw's Balance Acl"088 Temperature balance rim gets smaller as temperature rises and Rate expands as temperature falls. This happens because the (sec/day) bimetallic arms of the balance bend with temperature changes just like the bimetallic switch of a thermostat. +2 The change in diameter with temperature makes the balance rotate faster in heat and slower in cold. +1 The changes in the effective diameter of the balance rim are used to compensate for changes that occur in the steel hairspring as temperature changes. 70 100 The steel hairspring gets weaker as temperature in­ -1 Temp creases and stiffer as temperature decreases. These combined actions result in a balance unit -2 that maintains a fairly steady rate of oscillation across a range of temperature. As the temperature increases, the steel spring gets weaker, slowing the oscillations of

38 Horological Times/March 1993 Phot.o 4. Hamilt.on Model 22 Deck Watch, c. 1944 with Elinvar balance Photo 5. Warning label for gimbal mounted Model 22 watches. spring and monometallic balance. navigators. Considerable intellectual effort was con­ tion adjustment is resolved in favor of position adjust­ sumed in attempts to overcome this problem. ment. The compromise. The temperature compen­ The situation changes in marine chronometers, sation of the balance is entirely dependent on the deck watches, and carriage clocks where the balance is distribution of mass on the balance rim, while position maintained in a horizontal position. As explained by adjustments also depend on the distribution of that Rawlings, lack of poise has no effect on horizontal mass. This requires the adjuster to make a compromise oscillating bodies. However, instruments such as ma­ between position adjustment and temperature compen­ rine chronometers, deck watches, and carriage clocks sation. Knowledge of how the timepiece is to be used are subjected to wide variations in temperature. In provides the basis for making the compromise. these instruments, temperature compensation is more In watches (wrist and pocket), position adjust­ important than position adjustments. ments are of greater practical importance than tem­ While poising the balance of a railroad watch perature compensation. Since it is kept on the wrist or would enhance the instrument's performance while in in a pocket, the watch is generally kept at a constant use, re-poising the balance of an antique ship's chro­ temperature. However, a watch is almost constantly nometer or deck watch can be disastrous. These instru­ changing positions. A railroad watch balance should be ments were tested in only the dial up position. In use re-poised after replacingthe staff, and then checked and they are kept dial up and are subjected to wide ranges adjusted for position. This generally takes the form of of temperature. Marine chronometer balances are at­ removing weight from under the screws or adding tached to the staff with screws, rather than being washers. By definition, these changes in the distribu­ riveted to the staff. This reduces the chances of knock­ tion of the mass change the temperature compensation ing the balance out of poise while changing the staff, re­ of the balance. Since the railroad watch (or wristwatch) poising the balance, and destroying the carefully is maintained at a consistent temperature by body heat, achieved temperature compensation. the conflict between temperature adjustment and posi- 0

Figure 2. Temperature Response of Steel Balance Spring Figure 3. Temperature Response of Earnshaw Balance Wheel

Ill ·~... Q) c: .....>- ..... '(j 0 ·~ ..... II) c: Q) Ill E w 0 :2

Temperature Temperature

March 1993/Horological Times 39 ~ILTTABY TI~E

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI Hamilton Wristwatch Model 987A, 6/0's, 17 Jewels Part2

t( l}ftA., l y-r,., 7 j~w-t,L 5:t.~· ~*" l 'l ll1

Figure 5. Hamilton Model STC446, 7-jewe~ Swiss movement. One­ piece case marked on the inside: Hamilton W. Co., Lancaster, PA, stain­ less steel, Star W. C. Co. Back of case was stamped: Wristwatch, GG-W- 113, Fed. Stock No. 6645-066-4279, Mfg. Part No. 92230, Cont. No. GS-065-6238, Date December 1971, Serial No. 9244, U.S. The photo on the right shows back marking on the same model but a different case (Fred C. Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL).

Figure 6. Two views at right showing Hamilton's Model 447ST Co., 7-jewel, non­ hacking movement. Two-piece metal case with screwback. Back of case stamped: Watch­ Wrist, General Purpose, MIL­ W-463- 74B, Hamilton, 6645- 00-952-3767, Mfg. Part No. 39988. DSA 400- 770-0061, Sept. 1977, Dispose Rad. Waste, U.S. Note radiation symbol on the dial-radio­ active tritium was used on the hands and dial (Fred Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL).

40 Horological Times/March 1993 Figure 7 (right). Hamilton Grade 649, 17 jewels with "hacking" device, housed in a one-piece metal case. This model was used in service wristwatches from 1965 to 1983. Back engraved: Wrist­ watch, GGW 113, Fed. Stock No. 6645-066-4279, US, Mfrg. Part No. X3075, Cont. No. GS-065-9229, Serial No. 43151, Date MAR. 1975. (Fred C. Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL).

Figure 8 (right). Hamilton Grade 649, 17-jewel wrist­ watch. The small round milled-out area on the train bridge is stamped: Seventeen 17 Jewels, H. W. Co. Inc., Un­ adjusted, 649. The Swiss­ made movement Eta caliber 2750 is stamped on the pillar under the balance. This cali­ ber movement is the same as the one used by Benrus in their GYJL2 model wrist­ watch. The back of case is engraved: Wristwatch, GG-W- 113, Fed. Stock No. 6645-00- 066-4279, Mfg. Part No. 39986, Cont. No. GS-OWS- 51982, Date March 1982, Serial No. 711402, U.S. (Fred C. Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL).

Figure 9. Three views of Hamilton's Mod- el 649, 17-jewel, unad­ justed Swiss move· ment with hacking de· vice. Back of case is stamped: 523-8290, WJ0-6645-99, 17267/ 73,1'(British Govern­ ment Property sym­ bol). (Fred C. Hougham, Daytona Beach, FL).

Figure JO (left). Ham· ilton Grade 684, J J!-f, lignes, I 7-jewel Swiss movement with "hack­ ing" device, fitted to screwback case with dust cover. Back is stamped: Watch, Wrist: Navigation, FAPD 5101, Fed. Stock No. 6845-420-6363, Mfg. Part No. 39985, Cont. No. DAAA25-70- 00563, Date Sept. 1970, Type!, U.S. (Fred Hougham, Day­ tona Beach, FL).

March 1993/Horological Times 41 Figure 11 (three views above). Hamilton Grade 685, 11% lignes, 17-jewel Swiss movement with "hacking" device, housed in a one-piece metal case. Back stamped: Wristwatch, GG-W-113, Fed. Stock No. 6645-066-4279, U.S., Mfg. Part No. XZ73065, Cont. No. GS-065-4804, Serial No. 000925, Date Oct. 1970.

Figure 12 (right). Ham­ ilton CaliberlNT-7420/3, 11 % lignes, 7-jewel Swiss movement with "hack­ ing" device, fitted to screw back metal case. Train bridge stamped 44 7 S. T. Co., "H3" (for Hydrogen 3), triti­ um and radioactive sym­ bol appear on the dial. Back of case is stamped: Watch, Wrist: General Purpose; Mil-W-4637B; Hamilton; 6645-952- 3767, Mfg. Part No. 39988, DLA-400-78- D-0068, Aug. 1979, Dispose Rad. Waste, U.S.

Figure 13. Hamilton's Caliber 8758, 11% lignes, 17-jewel Swiss movement with "hacking" device, screwback water-resistant m etal case with snap dust cover. Back of case is stamped US.

42 Horological Times/March 1993 TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours J.M. HUCKABEE'S SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American clock verge. Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock­ ''Random Clock Talks'' time only.

TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clock from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21. Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only. one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER: Using a custom-made discussion of a varietY of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request (cost to and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and cover printing and postage is $2.00). discussion on using various tools and lathes TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels­ TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours how to replace teeth in the barrel of an a demonstration of cutting the wheels used SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem­ in the AWi CMC examination. Urgos 8-day modern clock. Huckabee onstration on lathe operation using the also fashions a new hole end for the main­ Boley watchmakers lathe and the C&E spring. TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours Marshall watchmakers lathe. SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpen­ TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours sive quartz analog clock movement, Huck­ TAPE 4: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the abee disassembles the movement and pro­ SUBJECT MATTER: An analysis and work antique American clock time train and vides an in-depth explanation of each with the Urgos 21 /42 8-day trapezoid repairs to it and using the Unimat lathe component and their function in the opera­ time only clock. to polish pivots. tion of the timepiece. TAPE 5: Approximately 2 hours TAPES 28 & 29 TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and Not available at this time. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an discussion about drilling the arbor using in-depth discussion on the design of cutting Huck's "turning in a box" method and TAPES 30-34: Approximately 2 hours each making a pivot. tool bits, both hand-held and those held SUBJECT MATTER: A series of five tapes in the tool post rest. Also a discussion of designed as a teaching exercise which TAPE 6: Approximately 1.75 hours steel-its composition and characteristics. encompasses every facet of lathe work SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration of encountered in the clock shop. Produced wheel cutting using clear plastic and a TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours in conjunction with a series of drawings Mosley watchmakers lathe. Huckabee cuts SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents which are provided by AWi when you four gears such as those required in the AWi an in-depth discussion about hairsprings. borrow the first tape in the series. Upon certification examination. He also demonstrates how to vibrate a clock completion of the work you have a set of hairspring. excellent useable lathe accessories for use TAPE 7: Approximately 1.75 hours in your shop. SUBJECT MATTER: The Birge & Mallory TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours Striker Clock-a complete study and anal­ SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee goes through TAPES 35 & 36: Approximately 2 hours each ysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker and the the process of making a knurled nut, one SUBJECT MATTER: Two tapes which clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, like those used as hand nuts in Early Amer­ demonstrate the use of the lathe accessories circa 1841. ican kitchen clocks. He demonstrates a produced in the Series 30-34. This en­ simple way to knurl the nut. compasses all facets of pivot work imcoun­ TAPE 8: Approximately 2 hours tered in the clock shop. SUBJECT MATTER: Making a great wheel TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours and mounting the great wheel on its arbor. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee demon­ TAPE 37: Approximately 2 hours strates the process of inserting a tooth SUBJECT MATTER: A companion tape TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours into a clock wheel to replace a broken or to the Huckabee book "How to Build a SUBJECT MATTER: Making and fitting a damaged tooth. Regulator Clock." All components and replacement pinion for a clock wheel. details for their construction are discussed in detail. It is recommended that the viewer TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours have the book at hand when viewing this TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot work in the tape. SUBJECT MATTER: Correcting problems American antique Sessions, count wheel, caused by an elongated pivot hole by bush­ and clock movement. ing with a solid bushing and the use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance. TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 11: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Continuation of work SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19. the IBM #37 Master Clock Movement and Complete restoration work on the move­ IBM 90 Series Clock Movement. ment and treating a worn great wheel.

March 1993/Horological Times 43 REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.70 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1 /4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. May issue closes for copy on April 1 st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P .0. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

CLOCK WHEEL a PINION ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE CUTTING Overhauled with a QUICK SERVICE three-year (3) warranty on all labor SEND FOR PRICE LIST MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC Jim DuBois 330 Rte 101 1326 Stanford Street ENGLISH CERTIFIED WATCHMAKER Amherst, NH 03031 (603)673-3645 Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 Repair, restoration of antique and modern Established in 1982 & AWi Trained watches, quartz/mechanical. Experienced in Please Call (310) 828-6707 CHRONOGRAPHS. Graduate WOSTEP Swit­ ENGLISH CLOCKMAKER. I have 38 years zerland.Jonathan Rowe, Phone (607) 775-3302, experience in restoring French and English c/o Time Master Service Center, 1290 Front St., carriage clocks. Also making parts for plat­ Suite 125, Binghamton, NY 13901. form escapements. Staffs, cylinders, pinions, CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTnNG, repivoting, etc. JOHN BARRS, 3924 S.W. RETOOTIIING, AND omER CUSTOM Holden St., Seattle, WA 98136; (206) 935-0596. WORK.Movements overhauled with2·year guarantee. All work done by a CMC or a mE MORTICIAN NO COMEBACKS CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S CLOCK SHOP, 125 Ganttown Rd., We correct past mistakes and bury them. Spe­ ARE YOU SPENDING 'IOO MUCH FOR Turnersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1539. cializing in wheel work, repivoting, making of CRYSTALS?? We will make any fl.at mineral parts, Atmos clock service for over 50years, and or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. antique pocket watches. Repeaters, Audemars Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., r------, Piguet, Piaget, Rolex, and Quartz Conversions. 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; All work guaranteed 2years and done by Jal (919) 889-0148. Small, CMW & Associates; (713) 561-5147.

DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, COMPLETE OVERHAULS! FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. 12 ; Hermie - Klenlnger - Urgos - American Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit 2 · Commercial Rates •• Free Estimates the quartz movement. Send your works to: 2-Week Turnaround •• 2-Year Warranty KIRK DIAL OF SEATIT.E, 4th & Pike Bldg., ... - Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. OLD TIME CLOCK JOBBERS Toll Free 1·800.756-8463 AWi NAWCC BEFORE AFTER ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Quartz Conversions We are Factory Authorized Service for: Diamond Dial Conversions CRYSTALS ·- FLAT GLASS * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP Emblem & Name Personalization Cut and Fitted * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R ' Complete Material Supply House We service all makes of ultrasonlc:s, sll makes of watch rate Write for Brochures Old and New Material recorders, and related equipment 25 years experience. INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Crystals of all Shapes and Sizes JACK PHILLIPS BAL TJMORE HOROLOGICAL 58 W. SUGARTREE ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE P.O. BOX970 & JEWELERS SUPPLIES 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 5662 Baltimore National Pike Baltimore. MD 21228 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 For Information Call (415) 453-9266 (513) 382-4535 (410) 744-6658 Fax (410) 455 -9621 L------1 44 Horological Times/March 1993 QUARTZ CONVERSIONS CLOCK WHEEL AND NOW AVAILABLE WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? PINION CUTTING NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? Fast service •• Write for free Bro­ An affordable machine that makes any shape mineral glass watch crystal in minutes in your SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT own shop, for approximately 75¢ each. AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. 986-7698. SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. ALFONSO ZAMORA 280 PRESIDIO PLACE BUFFALO, NY 14221 ITHACA CALENDAR CLOCK CO., (716) 633-6138 INC. New calendar movements. Com­ plete restoration of lthacas. 1-year warranty. Old Ithaca Calendar Clocks t~IiliJ~t}f!Bl~~it~!iit~i.DP:~.~~:'"'Tua\t~i~l for sale. 2009 Dryden Rd., Freeville, Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket oases} NY 13068. (607) 347-6661, 10-3. Will repair one free and keep the other HAMILTON SOS CELL STRAPS $5 each - minimum order of 3 6 for $25- 12 for $40 CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, Traces the bezel shape directly onto the min­ George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, Chestnut Hill, MA (617)332-7363 eral glass material with a diamond cutting pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, point. Break off and lightly sand or grind. 220 N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho wet sandpaper, available at your local hard­ 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. ware store, worlmainsprings, cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed material and tools. Custom made to order or Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for LOOK: We recently purchased a large inven­ $2.00. TANIENGINEERING,Box338,Atwater, Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: tory of mechanical watch parts from two large OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. P .P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological material houses. Especially Omega, Longines­ Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Wittnauer, Universal Geneve, and Valjoux. Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV350TR, England; Tele­ Check with us! WATCHES ETC., 5934 N.W. phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789- POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, 2824. hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. filGHEST QUALI'IY CLOCKMAKING TOOLS made by Service & Restoration of Fine Watches J. Malcolm Wild, Sheffield, England • Antique • Vintage • Complicated Depthing Tools (large & small} - Lathe File Rest • Pocket • Wrist Milling Spindle - Finger Plate Clamp Custom Staffs, Parts EQUIPMENT: L&R Master 3-jar cleaner, Pinion Head Depthing Tool Send for Brochure $99.95. Watchmaster WT Ultrasonic Cleaner, ..NEW•• William E. Botkin, C.MW., C.M.B. H. I. $395. McKenna Ultrasonic Watch Cleaner, $195. Hairspringing Tool - Fusee Grooving Tool 5510 S.Proctor Rd. • Muncie, IN 47302 Marshall Crystal Grinder, $175. Gesswein 25 Repivoting Tool/Jacot Drum amp Plater, $175. Other watchmakers, jew­ Myford Dividing Head Mounting Kit elers, and engraving equipment available! Skeleton Clock Kit Send SASE for our tool and equipment list. Catalog with complete price list MURPHY'S WATCHES ETC., 5934 N.W. 39th, Oklahoma available for $12.00 from: City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. Michael M. Ambrosino CRYSTAL SERVICE 33-67 165th Street - Flushing, NY 11358 FAST -- QUALITY WORK * 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. * Complete crystal fitting service CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD for new and old wrist and pocket CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP­ watches. MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, Save time, money, and work re-covering MOVEMENTS,ANDRELATEDITEMS.Write CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST bellows. Easler than replaclng. For Informa­ or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto PHONE (209) 576-8865 tion, send business-size SASE to: Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shopping 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. JANDi GOGGIN MODESTO, CA 95355 Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495- Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 2471.

March 1993/Horological Times 45 RepaJrdepartmen~manager, experienced in watch-clock-;fewelryrepair is interested in new challenge and opportunity. Reply to: Box SW393, c/oHorological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

MINERAL GLASS CRYErl'ALS. 75 sizes, CLOCKMAKER WANTED - Talented indi­ 14mm t.o 32.5mm, $4. 75 per dozen. Send SASE vidual in all types of clock repair. Lathe and for size list. R&D SUPPLY, 1310 Apple Ave., hairspring skills preferred. Send resume to: Silver Spring, MD 20910; (301) 588-7296, Fax Robert Good, 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd., St. (301) 495-7312. Louis, MO 63144. WANTED: Rolex Easy Opener, Rolex tools, HERMLEMOVEMENTS:Lowestpricesin U.S. Our trade shop is looking for an experienced cases, dials, movements, and complete watches, Fact.cry fresh, 2-year warranty. Butterworth watchmaker. Must be able t.o repair quartz and running or not. We also buy watchmaker's tools Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Muscatine, IA mechanicals. Please send resume and salary and equipment, pocket watches, and wrist­ 52761; 1-800-258-5418. requirements t.o: Pollak Watch Service, Inc., watches. Single items or complete collections. 13910 Cedar Road, Cleveland, OH 44118; (216) WATCHES ETC., 5934 N.W. 39th, Oklahoma 932-2500; 1-800-878-3185; Fax (216) 831-8649. City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. MINI QUARl'Z MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices-as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Experienced clockmaker for well~stablished COMPLETE STRATFORD 6-JEWEL Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Northern Vll'ginia watch & clock shop. Must be SWISS POCKET WATCH, 17 OR 17-1/2 HALLCLOCKSHOP,1512Centra1Ave.,Char­ able t.o repair or restore all makes of clocks. ligne,LangendorfS:iewelonbarrelbridge. lotte, NC 28205. Unlimited salary potential for right person. Also wanted: numbers and letters which Reply to: Box HW2393, c/o Horological Times, are watch dial size. (513) 521-4583. P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. WANTED: Chronograph movements. Will pay: Valjoux 22, 23, 71, 72, $35-$100; Valjoux 72C, $150; 730, $75; 88, $300; 69, $300; Venus Split Second, $500-$1000; Longines 13ZN, 13.33, $250; Movado 95, $275; Universal 287, $150- CLOCKMAKERSNEWSLEITER.. Subscribe $300; Ex. Park. 4, 440, 42, $50. Will buy parts, now and receive a free bonus issue. $35.00 per cases, and dials for these and other chrono­ year, 12 issues. PA residents only, add 6% tax. You probably already know our name graphs. Dean Sarnelle, 25 West Beverley St., Clockmakers Newsletter, 203 John Glenn Ave., and the high quality of our products. Staunton, VA 24401; (703) 885-6064. Reading, PA 19607. WATCHMAKERS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR, FL We now have a newly created posi­ Watdtes Wanted tion for an independent Watchmaker in two of our prestigious boutiques in Chicago and Bal Harbour, Florida. To inquire about our competitive sal­ ary and benefits package, please Laurie Penman's Correspondence Course in send resume indicating salary his­ Clock Repair offers a choice of payment plans tory and location of preference, and 13 bench packs in all. Don't put it off any to: Cartier Inc., Box 610508, longer. Write today for free 1992-93 catalog DFW Airport, TX 75261-0508. with sample lesson. Steven G. Conover, USA Cartier is an Course Agent, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, equal opportunity employer PA 19607. We desperately need for our retail customers fine watches by: Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Vacheron & Qmstantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. 40-24 62nd St Woodside, NY 113n We are paying top prices for any high Phone (718) 424-2929 quality, unusual or complicated Quallty Instruction Since 1945 6. Wrist or Pocket Watches

WATCHMAKING When.You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch (17 months) Watch repair trade shop seeks to expand as a Qill us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 WATCH REPAIR service center for a major retailer of watches or In Texas 1-214-902-0664 (9 and 13 months) a watch manufacturer. Twenty years ofproduc­ JEWELRY REPAIR ing quality service to our customers give us the Always prompt immediate payment! BASIC ELECTRONICS experience know-how and willingness to handle Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation yourwatchrepairneeds.Replyt.o:BoxSW3493, Wingate's Quality Watches NATIS approved, BEOG available c/o Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincin­ P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 nati, OH 45211.

46 Horological Times/March 1993 HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN seeks parts! Movements, balances, etc. needed. Pocket& Wrletwltchee Wanted Dead orAllvl! Ameri­ Want anything related to Hamilton Electrics. can WaHham, llllno!e, Howard, Keywlnde, Gold, WANTED Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor Drive, Corte Madera, Early American, Chronomttere, Repeater., Patek * Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar CA 94925; (415) 924-6534; Fax (415) 924-8423. Phlllppt, Vacheron, Unueual, H!etorlcal, Fu11M. Piguet, Vacheron, LeCouttre, !WC, Etc. CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-23J-BUNN orWrltt: Mauncly Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Fi!led & Gold !ntematlona!, P.O. Box 13028-H, Overland Park, (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) WANTED: CLOCK BUSIUNG TOOL. BILL Kan11e66212. * Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service KING, (314) 442-8089. Sets, Etc. * Scrap-Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ CALL RETIRING? I need to buy watchmakers tools movements. I buy entire collections, estates, TOLL FREE watchmakers' inventories. Over 31 years expe­ and related items. I will pay your price, in 1 ·800-426-2344 most cases. Call collect, Tom Mister (800) 446- rience of honest and reliable confidential trans­ SPECIALTY METALS 8094. actions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly REFINING COMPANY Hills, CA 90210; (310) 826-7778. 10 Bay Street We pay 97% ofmarket for karat gold scrap (any Westport, CT 06880 EARLYHOROLOGICALTOOLSWANTED. amount)! Also, buy filinga, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment Members: B-Business Bureau Wheel cutting engines, lathes with orig. wood Jeweleis Board a Trade boxes, fusee engines, early books, rare clocks return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: Ron Fried 011' 95th Consecutive Ad (especially floor clocks), and related items. Shope AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King President bought. Greg McCreight, 1336 Allentown Rd., St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ Lima, OH 45805; (419) 229-4349. lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073.

WE'RE INTERESTED IN YOUR COLOR SLIDES

The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent 1s not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there.

Those of yoti-who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8-1 /2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with description to: Horological '11mes, P.O. Box 11011, Dept. 31, Cincinnati, OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.

March 1993/Horological Times 47 MARCH 1993 15-16--Lathe Accessories Bench Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 6 Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Borel Co ...... 5 6-7--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench New York, NY.* Course (A WI); James Williams, instruc­ Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover tor; Kansas City, MO.* 21--Servicing ETA Quartz Chrono­ Charles Cleves ...... 29 graphs Bench Course (AWi); James 6-7--Striking Clocks Bench Course Broughton, instructor; Dallas/Ft. Worth, (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Denver, TX.* DRS, lnc ...... 3 CO.* E & L Import, Inc ...... 35 12-14-Advanced Clock Repair Bench JUNE 1993 Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instruc­ EuroTool ...... 6 tor; Grand Junction, CO.* 4-6--North Carolina Watchmaker's As­ Eveready Batteries ...... 11 sociation Annual Convention; Holiday 20-21--Basic Lathe Bench Course Inn North; Raleigh, NC. For detailed Gem City College ...... 32 (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Mem­ information call Alice Carpenter (919) phis, TN.* 823-2944. S. LaRose, Inc ...... 27 27-28--Lathe Accessories Bench Livesay's, Inc ...... 21 Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; OCTOBER Memphis, TN.* Mccaw Co., Wm. s...... 17 S-10--lllinois State Watchmakers Con­ vention; ClockTowerlnn; Rockford, IL. Olson, J. D...... 7 APRIL 1993 For more information contact: Jack Donovan, 124 North St., Normal, IL Perfect Fit Crystal Co ...... 31 4--Servicing ErA Quartz Chronographs 61761. Plymouth Watch Material ...... 8 Bench Course (AWi); James Precision Crystal Cutting Co ...... 29 Broughton, instructor, Chicago, IL.* S & G Industries ...... 17 1S-20-AWI Southwest Technical Con­ SMEA ...... 33 clave, Las Vegas, NV.* *For more information on AWi Bench Taylor, Mel ...... 14 Courses, Project Extend, and Re­ Toledo Jewelers Supply ...... 23 MAY1993 gional Seminars, contact AWi Cen­ tral, P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Twin City Supply Co ...... 13 S-9--Basic Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) James Lubic, instructor; New York, NY.* 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131. Vibrograf USA ...... 19 Vigor Co ...... 9

Witschi Electronics ...... 25

Zantech ...... 15

48 Horological Times/March 1993 QUARTZ MOVEMENTS Guaranteed Lowest Prices! We will match any price for all movements listed in this ad. NEVV MIYOTA MIYOTA MOVEMENTS 258 2015 6L32 $695 $895 $895 HATTORI 51/2 x 63/4 PC22A, 63/4 x 8 ...... $ 7.95 Two Hand. PC 23A, 63/4 x 8 ...... 7.95 PC32A, 101/2 ...... 7.95 PC33A, 101/2 ...... 7.95 268 2030 6M02 Y1428, 111/2 ...... 9.95 $695 s795 s995 Y143A, 111/2 ...... 10.95 63/4 x 8 Y144A, 111/2 ...... 11.95 Two Hand. • • VX13A, 83/4 ...... 10.95 • VX20A, 101/2 ...... 7.95 VX21A, 10112 ...... 7.95 369 3220 6M12 VX22A, 101/2 ...... 9.95 $695 VX29A, 101/2 ...... 9.95 s995 s995 VX32A, 101/2 ...... 9.95 63/4x 8 Sweep Second. VX33A, 101/2 ...... 10.95 VX50A, 63/4 x 8 ...... 7.95 • VX51B, 63/4 x 8 ...... 7.95 1198/12 VP32A, 101/2 ...... 7.95 $695 VP33A, 101/2 ...... 8.95 2105 JAPANESE VP36A, 1Ol/2 ...... 10.95 11112 $895 VP44A, 111/2 ...... 10.95 Sweep Second. VX42A, 111/2 ...... 9.95 9GB VX43A, 111/2 ...... 10.95 s795 63/4 x 8 S.S. MIYOTA Replaces 4GB Orient.

2005, 63/4 x 8 ...... 8.95 5Y20, 51/2 x 63/4 ...... 9.95 11112 2115 6DX1 5Y30, 51/2 x 63/4 ...... 9.95 Sweep $895 s950 6L02, 63/4 x 8 ...... 9.95 Second, Day/Date. 51/2 x 63/4 6L 12, 63/4 x 8 ...... 10.95 S.S. Replaces 5FB. 6L22, 63/4 x 8 ...... 8.95 • 6L40, 63/4 x 8 ...... 11.95 6L45, 63/4 x 8 ...... 11.95 RE MEX

HP6640B, 111/2 ...... 6.95 HP6653, 63/4 x 8 ...... 5.95

CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-487-0408 FAX 1-800-487-5848 LOCAL 5131241-7073 FAX 5131241-5848 AWi BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send along with your request a registration fee of $35 per instruction day (for AWi members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register by fax If you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661-3131. For more information, call (513) 661-3838.

r "I ~Q!.!B§~§ i IH§IB!.!CTOB§ MARCH 1993 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW 6-7--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Kansas City, MO Advanced Quartz Watch Repair 6-7--Striking Clocks--Denver, CO Robert Bishop, CMEW Basic Pocket Watch 12-14--Advanced Clock Repalr--Grand Junction, CO Allee Carpenter, CMW, CMEW Introduction to Clock Repair 20-21--Basic Lathe--Memphis, TN Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Advanced Clock Repair 27-28--Lathe Accessories--Memphis, TN Roland Iverson, CMC Repair of the Atmos Clock Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI APRIL 1993 Basic Lathe Jamee Lubic 4--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Chlcago, IL Cuckoo Clock Repair James Williams, CC 18-20--AWI Southwest Technical Conclave--Las Vegas, NV 400-Day Clock Repair John A. Nagle Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs James Broughton, CMEW MAY1993 Remy Waelchll 8-9--Beginning Lathe-New York, NY Advanced Lathe Roy Hovey 15-16--Lathe Accessories--New York, NY Striking Clocks John Nagle 21--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX Lathe Accessories Roy Hovey \... ~

PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES FOR 1993

Contact AWi Central for the General Information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you.

March 8-12 Watch Ill James Lubic May 10-14 Watch VI Alice Carpenter (complicated mechanical) (basic pocket watches)

March 15-19 Watch V Ron Decorte June7-12* Lathe I Roy Hovey (advanced pocket watches-- (basic) service and restoration) June 14-19* Lathe II Roy Hovey May3-7 Clock Ill David Christianson (advanced) (restoration) • 6-day cla~