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Pocket Watch, 1898

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Pocket Watch, 1898 Ladies' Mesh Watch Bands to Fit Seiko, Pulsar, Citizen And Many Other Brandsl LADIES, MESH WATCHBANDS Now you can offer your customers a quality micron plated or stainless band SLIDING CLASPS at a reasonable price and keep the extra profit for yourself! Width at case Sliding clasps complete with top is 9.8mm, width of fork end is 8mm, & portions. Fits Lorus, Sharp and width at clasp is 7mm. many others! Available in 6, 7, 8 & Need it 15mm. Yellow & White. tomorrow? $8.95Y $4.95 S/S $3.50 each Call us today! ~-------- · ~~~~~~~~~~~g POPULAR FOLDOVER I CLASPS Our popular clasps fit Seiko, CENTER CATCHES Pulsar and many others. These handy catches fit many brands Available separately or in an assort­ - and at this low price, you'll want to ment! Available Sizes: stock up! Available Widths: 2, 3, 4, 5 5, 6, 7, 8, 10,15 & 16mm. & 6mm. Yellow & White. (Assortments Yellow & White. available) $2.95 each $11.95 I dozen I Clasp Asst: Contains $29 95 10 ea. ladies' & 10 mens' buckle 1 spring bars; 12 ea. Y & W safety chains; 12 foldover clasps (1 each A $50.00 5, 6, 7, 8,10, & 15mm in Y & W); Value!! SEIKO TYPE SAFETY and a plastic compartment box. CHAINS First quality with hooks and eyes in gold or rhodium finish. $5.95 I dozen $40per100 National WATS: 800-328-0205 In Minnesota: 800-392-0334 FAX: (612) 452-4298 ~ :::~~~ . ~5~· Toll-Free FAX: 800-548-9304 • ~ P.O. Box.64561, St. Paul, Minnesota 55164 VOLUME 17, NUMBER 3 MARCH 1993 STARTING HOROLOGICAL THIS ISSUE! The History of the Movado Watch Company A SPECIAL 4-PART SERIES, IN COLOR, LOCATED IN THE Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute CENTER OF THIS ISSUE! Wes Door 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Henry B. Fried 4 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Pocket Watch, 1898 Fred S. Burckhardt 8 ROCK QUARRY Thoughts on Clocks Jerry Jerue 14 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Accommodations Archie B. Perkins 18 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration Part L.XXXVll Wes Door 22 SHOPTALK Certification or Not Marshall F. Richmond 24 PICKLE BARREL Jewelry Crafting and Repair Useful Tools George Hite 30 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT Hamilton 505: Compensation Procedure for Index Wheel and Endpiece Wear Henry B. Fried 33 BOOK REVIEW The Clock Repairer's Handbook J.P. Kenyon 34 THE APPRENTICE CLOCKMAKER Clock Movement Maintenance, Part II Examination of a Single Train 30-Hour Clock Movement Dewey Clark 36 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT Balance Assemblies: Principles of Operation and a Little History DEPARTMENTS Marvin E. Whitney 40 MILITARY TIME Hamilton Wristwatch, Part II New Members/10 Bulletin Board/12 AskHuck/16 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Material Search Network/28 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Association News/28 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classified Ads/44 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/48 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on Advertisers' lnde.x/48 all natlonal holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hourrecordlng), FAX (513) 661-3131. * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Jamee H. Broughton Harold J. Herman George Danlele Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDffORIAL OFRCES Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson Josephine F. Hagans •Hamilton E. Pease AWi Central • Orvllle R. Hagans Miiton C. Stevens P.O. Box 11011 Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue • Dec:eaalld Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131 Milton C. Stevens: Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Donna Baas: Production Director President's Message Harold J. Hennan: Senior Technical Editor Many of the ideas for good articles come from our Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager members. Thankgoodness! Thisarticleaboutcertifica­ Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator tions is an example of member input. Because of the importance of this material, it TECHNICAL EDITORS will be shared jointly in this "President's Message" Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee column and in this month's "Shop Talk" article. James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon Some of the questions to be discussed are as Fred S. Burckhardt John A. Nagle follows: What are the different certifications offered by David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins A WI? Does a certification help, and if so, how? Some Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter say it's a waste of time. Do we agree? These and other Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond questions will be addressed today, but first some back­ Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney Henry B. Fried ground information. We all have services performed by people AWi OFFICERS with certificates or diplomas of some sort. Our doctor, dentist, and many other professional Wes Door, CMW: President people must have taken and passed certain courses, some of which may have taken several Joseph L Cerullo, CMW, CMC: First Vice President years to complete. This not only happens before they can attach the word "Doctor" to their Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President name, but before they can even put out their shingle and practice their profession. Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary We learn to respect their advice knowing that they had to pass a designated Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI: Treasurer amount of knowledge to achieve their title. At this point one might say we cannot equate the requirements of a doctor (who works on people sometimes in life and death situations) AWi DIRECTORS to our business of just working on watches, clocks, or jewelry. A more appropriate William Biedennan, CMW comparison might be made between our business and an auto mechanic, appliance repair Robert F. Bishop, CMEW shop, or even a tire shop. We all have seen diplomas or certificates proudly hanging up in Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Charles Cleves these shops also. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI Now this does not necessarily mean that all employees in these shops have a Gerhard Hutter, CMW certificate, or that they are not qualified to perform their job equally as well as the shop Benjamin Matz, CMW person with the certificate. At this point, let's stop and think. Who would we want to trust John A. Nagle with our car, the one with a certificate or the one without a certificate who may or may not Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI be as well qualified? Of course, if we know the mechanic personally and this person has Marshall F. Richmond, CMW a good reputation, we may not know if they have any certifications hanging on the wall. James E. Williams, CC We may not even care. However, it is quite likely this person will have taken some special training as most products today have changed enough to require this. Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director In our business we are aware of changes also, and we need all the knowledge we Tony Knorr: Research & Education Council Director cari muster up (and then some) just to keep up with changing times. We need 1-0ay and 2- Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Immediate Past day seminars, longer special courses, reading material including the Horological Times, President and yes, we need to be sure we are qualified. Our certification programs are our means to accomplish this. Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary For more information on certification, read "Shop Talk" in this issue. David LaFleche: General Manager James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director Reprinting and reproduction la prohibited wlth­ outwrltten permlnlon from the American Watch­ maker..Clockmakers Institute. Copyrlght@1993 by the American Watchmakera-Clockmakers In­ ON THE FRONT: The "Balcony House" at stitute. Mesa Verde National Park, Cortez, Colorado. Slide by Regina Stenger, Cincinnati, Ohio. 2 Horological Times/March 1993 BENCH BAND CUTIER CRYSTAL PRESS/CASE CLOSER Excellent tool for sizing mesh bands. long-lasting Our case closer offers you the best of both worlds - blade; square cut without fraying. European made. price and quality. Made of metal with multiple dies, BC-100 this crystal press/case closer is the perfect tool for snap-back cases. The hollow dies allow fitting without damaging the crystal or bezel. CRY-910.00 list Price $99.95 DRS Price $89.00 BAND NOTCHING PLIER Notches standard straps to fit Gucci-type watches. Utilizes existing band inventory-never lose another customer. PL-101 DRS Price $39.95 List Price $21.50 DRS Price $17.50 Discounters CASE WRENCH of ASSORTMENTS Open all types of waterproof cases easily and without Tools & [\ scratching the caseback. I I I Complete with four Supplies ,JL=.o: sets of pins. C0-675 I I I 90 pc. Battery straps & clamps" assortment. " No. 3400 Introductory price $59.95 36 pc. Assortment of white crowns. Dia 3.5 - 4.0mm, list Price $21.00 Taps 70 - 90. No. 5500 $37.50 DRS Price $17.50 30 pc. Crystal assortment. Round, optically flat, from SPRING BAR TOOL 19 - 32mm in diameter. No. 44075 $49.95 Remove, measure and insert all types of spring bars. Replaceable tips, pointed and forked. SBT-100 24 pc. Assortment of white and yellow crowns. _ ._.. •,., ..... __ Dia. 3.0 - 4.5, Taps 60- 200. No. 5540 $27.50 list Price $6.50 Ask for our free Findings, Tools, Cason Rings DRS Price $5.50 and Watch Material Catalogs. THE JEWELERS' DEPARTMENT STORE Toll Free: 800-223-8960 Fax: 800-526-8682 • 1= 56 West 47th St., New York, NY 10036 (212) 819-0237 Fax: (212) 354-2270 Henry B.
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