Index A-C 351 1970 Vol7S Compiled by D. F. O. Dangar

AlpineJournal: change of Editor, 283; Baihali Jot: first ascent, 40 Abi Gamin: fourth ascent, 195 Barley, R.: art. 'Some new routes in Accidents: Alpine, 1969, 137; Grandes South Africa', 71 Jorasses, 139; Friindenhorn, 142; Baroni, Pta: by new route on E face, 50 Dhaulagiri IV, 196; Dhaulagiri, 197; Beard, E.: obit., 339 survey of British 1959-68,265; Blackshaw, A.: relinquishes Editorship , Alpine, 1968,265 of AlpineJournal, 283 Africa, South: summary of 1969 season, Blakeney, T. S.: art. 'The roof of the 15° world from Apollo 7', 65; relinquishes Agner, Mte: by N ridge, 146 Assistant Editorship of AlpineJournal, Aioui: climbs on, 148 283 Alam Kuh: first ascent by Central Pillar Blanc du Tacul, Mt.: solo ascents by of N face, 158 Gervasutti pillar, 138 Alaska Range: ascents in, 206 Blandy, Mrs Ethel: death, 341 Ali Ratni Tibba: first ascent, 9 Borthwick, A.: his book, Always a Little Allievi cirque: climbs in the, 48 Further, 3 I 2 Allievi, Pta: by S ridge, 48; by new route British Isles notes: 248 on SW buttress, 49; first British ascent British Mountaineering Council: by E face, via Boga, 50, 144 summary of 1969 activities, 291 Allsup, W.: obit., 331 Brochkogel: solo ski descent of S face, 33 : by E ridge, 211; height, Brooks Range: ascents in, 206 212 Alpine Club: honours, 283; honorary members elected, 283; proceedings, Caiman, Col du: by NW face, 138 283; officers elected, 284; obituary, Cape Province: climbs in, 74 285; role of, 285; subscription rates, Capitan, EI: by Salathe Wall, 25 287; library, 288,329; rescue insurance, Cashbrair: correction re, 186 289 Cassin, R.: art. 'The West face of Alpine Journal: new form of, and prices, Jirishanca, 1969', I 287; guidance for contributors, 348; Castello, Cima di: first ascent by central standard signs on maps and photos, 346 pillar of S face, 50, 144 Annapurna II: second ascent, 198 Challis, D. H.: art. 'Three peaks in Annapurna IV: ascents, 198 Chamba-Lahul, 1969',39 Apollo II mission: naming of routes and Chapiitschin, II.: ski ascent, 128 in commemoration of, 281 Chaupi Orco: first traverse, 221 Apolobamba, Cordillera: Spanish Chi Gari : Austrian first ascents expedition to, 220 from, 169 Argentiere, Aiguille d': by N face in Chopicalqui, Nevado: first ascent by SE winter, 141 ridge, 13 Arhueicocha: first ascent, 212 Chrobak, E.: art. 'New route on the Grand Arnao, C. M.: his book, Andinismo en la Pilier d'Angle, ', 95 , 307 Churen Himal: Italian attempt, 196 : first ascent by S face, 21 I Cilo Dag: ascents in, 156 Artificial aids: articles in Alpinismus re, Civetta, Punta: by Aste-Susatti route, 276 146 Artificial climbing: early, 277 Clarbrough, M.: art. 'Nevado Asp-e-Safed I: second ascent, 172 Chopicalqui, South-east ridge', 13 Asp-e-Safed II: first ascent, 172 Clark, J. F. G.: obit., 331 Asp-e-Safed South: second ascent and Clough, Ian: death, 285 first by N ar~te, 172 Clubs: Groupe de Haute Montagne: early Atlas Mts: ascents in, 148 years of, 109, fiftieth anniversary, 290; Ausangate: first ascent by NE ridge, 2 I 9 Andean Society, London: formation of, Ausher (Owir I): first ascent, 80 210; Alpine Climbing Group: in 1969, Australia: summary of 1969 season, 202 284; German Alpine: centenary, 290; A.B.M.S.A.C.: sixtieth anniversary, 292; Alpine Ski: in 1969,293; Ladies' Badile, Piz: solo ascent by NE face, 143 Alpine: in 1969,293 352 C-H

Collomb, R. G.: his books, Graians East: Fantin, M.: his book, Montagne di area, 314; Zermatt and Groenlandia, 302 District: Alpine Guide II, 314 Ferro, Pizzi del: by faces of right- and Collon, Mt.: by Central ridge of face, left-hand pillars, 143 141 Field, E. S.: death, 285 Collon, Petit Mt.: by N face of W Peak, Fiero, Cerril: ascent, 225 141 Fiorentina, Sezione (C.A.!.): centenary Condoriri Norte: first ascent by S\V ridge, book,313 221 FitzRoy: attempts, 234 Cook, Mt.: ascents by Royal Marines, 204 Fluchthorn: ski ascent, 128 Corsica: ascents in, 147 FrUndenhorn: accident, and note on Crampons: seventeenth century, 277 route, 142 Crooked Finger (Kishtwar): ascent, 190 Gangotri I II: second and third ascents, 194 Gangotri region: first ascent of unnamed Damesme, M.: art. (with T. de Lepiney), peak c 19,200 ft, 195 'The early years of the Groupe de Garmo, Peak: recovery of note left on Haute Montagne', 109 summit by British-Soviet expedition, Day, M. W. H.: art. 'Tirich Mir, 1969',79 1962, 162 de Lepiney, T.: art. (with M. Damesme), Ghustung North: fourth ascent, 22 'The early years of the Groupe de Gill, M.: his book, Midsummer, Haute Montagne', 109 3°4 Demavend: ascent, 158 Glockner, Gross: first ski descent of Deo Tibba: ascent, and ski descent, 193 Pallavicini Couloir, 32 Devies, L.: his book (with F. Labande Gobbi, Toni: death, 285 and M. Laloue), Le MasSIf des Ecrins Goll (Berchtesgaden ): ski descent of Vol. I, Meije-Ecrins, 313 E face, 33 Dhaulagiri: American attempt, and Goodwin, Col.: his reminiscences accident, 197 available, 186 Dhaulagiri IV: Austrian attempt, and Gray, D.: poem: 'To stand on the edge accident, 196 of all things ...', 282 Dir Gol Zorn: ascent, 166 Greenland: 1969 expeditions: North Dir Gol Zorn, Little: first ascent, 166 Peary Land, 237; Blosseville Coast, Donkin, W.: death, 285 239; Kristians glacier area, 240; Dru, Grand: South pillar, second British Upernivik Island, 242; list of peaks ascent by Bastien-Contamine route, climbed by St Andrews expedition, 14° 244- Dru, Petit: probable second solo ascent by Greenwood, B.: art. 'Calgary climber', Bonatti pillar, 140 101 Duff, D.: obit., 341 Guide-books: route descriptions in, Duphao Jot: first ascent, 40 288 Gumbaz-e-Safed: by NW face, 172 Gurja Himal: first ascent, 17, 196 Ebnefiuh: NW face: first British ascent Gurung, H.: his book, Annapurna to by Aschenbrenner-Mariner route, 143 Dhaulagiri: a Decade of Mountaineering Eiger: North face: third British ascent, in Nepal Himalaya, I950-I960, 310 143; new route by Japanese, 143 Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld: problem of ascent, 239 Hagen, T.: his book, Report Otl the Elburz Mts.: expedition to, 157 Geological Survey of Nepal, 300 Equipment and technique: recent Hanuman Tibba: sixth and seventh developments in, 272 ascents, 193 Ethiopia: Polish expedition to, 149 Haramukh: ascent, 186 Everest, Mt.: Japanese visits, 1969, 199 Harper, F.: art. 'First ascent of Ali Ratni Tibba, 1969',9 Harriss, Barbara: art. 'The Theodulpass: Fall, a record: correction re, 205 a history', 87 H-M 353

Hauser, G.: his book (with M. Klotz), Koh-i-Mina: now known as Kohe Dusti, Die Hiltten des Deutschm Alpenvereins, 179 316 Koyo Zorn: second ascent, 179 Helmet: difficulty of hearing with a, climbing, 274 Hemming, G.: obit., 342 Lampak Group: first ascents ofMain Peak Hex River Mountains: ascents in, 74 and an unnamed peak, 195; first ascent Himalaya: seen from Apollo 7, 65; rules of South Lampak, 195 governing mountaineering expeditions, Langmuir, E.: his book, Mountain 199; proposed 1970 expeditions, 201; Leadership, 310 qualifications for a separate peak, 282 Lapuch, K.: art. 'Some extreme ski runs', Hindu Kush: ascents in, 165 3 1 Hodgkin, R. A.: poem: 'Himalaya: seen Lauge Koch, Mt.: ascent, 237 when flying over the Ganges', 70 Lavaredo, Cima Ovest di: first British Hoeman, J. V.: obit., 332 ascent by Rudolf-Baur route, 59, 146 Houston, 0.: death, 344 Lenin, Peak: international meet in the Huascaran: first ascent by W arete, 131 area, 162; ascent by new route, 163 Hudson, J.: death, 343 Linsbauer, A.: death, 345 Huila, Nevado del: attempt, 210 Lunkho-i-Dosare: second ascent of W summit, 178 Lunkho-i-Maghreb: first and other Ice-pitons: first employment in the Alps, ascents, 178 3 1 Lunkho summits: history of ascents, 179 lIIampu: first ascent by S ridge, 222 IIIimani: first ascent by N ridge, 222 Indar Kila: first ascent, 193 M7 (Hindu Kush): first ascent, 173 Irving, R. L. G.: obit., 333 Maeder, H.: his book, The Mountai11s of Ishmurg valley: expedition to, 177 Switzerland: the Adventure of the High Istor-o- al: first ascents of S, SE, and Alps, 306 main summits, 166; amendment of Malubiting: first ascent of N peak, 185 earlier reports, 168 Maps : Apolobamba area, showing activities of 1969 Spanish party, 220; Jirishanca: first ascent by W face, I Pumasillo-Yanama area, showing Jones, C.: art. 'The Salathe Wall', 25 activities of 1969 Australian Jorasses, Grandes: Pointe Croz; first expedition, 213 British ascent by N face, 138 Greenland: North Peary Land, showing activities of 1969 British expedition, 238; Upernivik Island, showing Kanjiroba Himal: expedition to, 114; activities of 1969 St Andrews attempts on highest summit of, 120 expedition, 244 Kenya, Mt.: ascents, 149; new route on Gurja Himal: showing route of 1969 NE face of Nelion, 150 Japanese party, 17 Khandut valley: ascents from, 177 Hindu Raj: Thui 2 area, showing Khergiani, M.: death, 344 activities of 1969 British party, 180 Khwaja Muhammad Group: ascents in, Istor-o-Nal area: showing activities of 178 1969 Spanish expedition, 167 Kilimanjaro: first ascent of Mawenzi by Kackar Kavron group: showing middle buttress of E face, 150 activities of 1969 Birmingham party, Kirstein, W.: art. 'Sixty years off piste ; 154 reflections of a ski-mountaineer', 124 Kanjiroba Himal: 117 Kishmi Khan: first ascent by SSW Kishtwar Himalaya: showing activities buttress, 174 of 1965 and I Q69 British parties, 187 Kishtwar Himalaya: expedition to, 186 Miyar Nullah, Himalaya: 42; approach Klotz, M.: her book (with G. Hauser), to, 38 Die Hilttm des Deutschen Alpenvereins, Nepal, West: showing J. B. Tyson's 316 three journeys, 115 354 M-Q

Maps-cont. Ostrava, Cerro (Patagonia): first ascent, Patagonia: border of Northern Ice-cap 236 showing activities of 1969-70 New Owir I: see Ausher Zealand party, 224; Southern Ice-cap showing route taken by 1969 Japanese party, 23 I Paine, Cordillera del: Cathedral: attempt, Pcnnine Alps, Central: 88 234; first ascents in, 235-6; future Punjab Himalaya: Dibibokri Nala and prospects, 236 Mount Parvati, 54 Pakistan: by van to, 276 Qazi Deh and Noshaq area: showing Palii, Piz: ascent, 129 activities of 1969 Austrian party, 170 Parachuting, extreme: correction re, 280 'I)rich Mir: 79 Parbati Group: first and second ascents Mafterhorn: by N face, 141 of highest peak, 194 Ma6dit, Mt.: by SE face, variation to Parvati Peak (Kulu): first ascent, 53 M~agami route, 138 Patagonia: New Zealand expedition to McAndrew, Miss B. M.: death, 345 border of Northern Ice-Cap, 225; McCartney, J.: death, 346 summary of ascents by, 229; Japanese McDermott, P.: death, 346 W-E crossing of Southern Ice-Cap, McKinley, Mt.: second ascent by W rib of 23° S face, 206 Patey, T. W.: death, 285 McMorrin, I.: his book (with C. W. F. Peak 29 (Dakura): attempt, 199 Noyce), World Atlas ofMountaineering, Peak 141 (Mandaras glacier): first ascent, 298 174 Menthosa: reconnaissance, 41 ; attempt,43 Peak 18,977 ft (Lahul): first ascent, 43 Merle d'Aubigne, R.: his book, Secourisme Peak 20,684 ft (Chaturangi glacier): en Montagne, 312 first ascent, 195 Minapin (Diran): correction of comments Pegish valley: first ascents from, 177 on first ascent, 185 : case for lightly equipped parties, Mordecai, D.: his book, The Himalaya: 210; proposed new guide-book, 21 I an illustrated summary of the World's Peuterey, Aiguille Blanche de: first Highest Mountain Ranges, 317 British ascent by N face, 138 Mountaineering Journals: reviewed, 318 Peuterey, Aiguille Noire de: by S ridge, Mountaineers, U.S.A., The: book, 138 Medicine for Mountaineering, 3 II Phabrang: reconnaissance, 41; attempt, Muhi Zorn: first ascent, 169 43 Munro: his Tables of the 30oo-foot Phu Dorje: death, 341 Mountains in Scotland, 3 I 7 Pierre, B.: his book, Le Petit Sherpa aux Muongia, La: ski ascent, 129 Yeux Bleus, 312 Murarata: first ascent by SW ridge, 221 Pilier d'Angle, Grand: Polish ascent by new route on SE face, 95, 137 Piuquenes area (Andes): ascents in, 223 Nanda Bhanar: attempt, 196 Planchon, Cerro: first ascent, 236 New Zealand: summary of 1969-70 Pontic Alps (Turkey): expedition to season, 203 Kackar Kavron group, 153 Norte, Cerro: first ascent, 234 Pra Sec, Aiguilles de: first ascent by E North America: summary of 1969 face, 139 season, 206; summits of forty-eight Pumasillo area: Australian expedition to, states in one summer, 209 2 I 2; list of peaks climbed by, 2 I 7 Norway: ski traverse of Haute Route of Pyatt, E. C.: becomes Editor of Alpine Central, 136 Journal, 283 Noshaq: ascents, 172, 173 Noyce, C. W. F.: his book (with I. McMorrin), World Atlas of Qazi Deh: Austrian first ascents in, 169; Mountaineering, 298 American expedition to, 173 Quimsa Cruz: German expedition to, 223 : first ascent by S ridge, 212 One hundred years ago: 278 Qungur massif: climbing history, 202 R-W 355

Rahozon Zorn: first ascent, 169 Tararua, Cerro: ascent, 225 Ras Dashan: first ascent by NW pillar, Taurus Mts.: expedition to, 151; 149 previous expeditions to, 152 Rasica, Punta: ascent, 48 Tharkot: attempts, 195 Raura, Cordillera: ascents in, 2 I 2 Theodulpass: history of, 87 Real, Cordillera: expeditions to, 221 Thomson, C. W. H.: obit., 338 Rescue equipment: advances in, in Thui II: attempt from Shetor glacier, Britain, 267 179 Rey, Aldolphe: death, 347 Timrazine-Astif massif: ascents in, 148 Roberts, D.: his book, The Mountain ofmy Tirich, Little: first ascent, 80 Fear, 308 Tirich Mir: fourth ascent, 81,165; Robson, M t. : second ascent by face, 208 future prospects on, 85; Japanese Robson, P.: his book, Mountains of attempt from N, 166 Kenya, 316 Toro, Colle el: first crossing, 4 Rocchetta Alta: ascents, 146 Torre, Cerro: attempts, 234 Rock climbers: motor aptitude of, 282 Toubkal: new ascents in the region, 148 Rocky Mountains: climbs in, 101,208 Townshend, E. V.: death, 285 Roc Noir: first ascent, 197 Trans-Alai Pamir: Polish expedition to, Rogers, B.: death, 346 162 Rogers, N. A. J.: art. 'Climbs in the Tremonti, M.: art. 'The first ascent of Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia', 48 Parvati Peak, Kulu, 1968',53 Rope: effects on strength, of wetting and Trono Blanco (Patagonia): first ascent, freezing, 274 236 Rosa, Mte: ski descent of Marinelli Tuchal: ski ascent, 157 Couloir, 35 Tukucha Peak: first authorised ascent, Rosso, Cima di: first ascent by North 197 Pillar, 145 Tunuyan valley (Andes): ascents in, 223 Rother, R.: death, 347 Tyson, J. B.: art. 'Return to Kanjiroba', Rozes, Pilastro di: by S face direct, 146 I14 Russia: summary of 1969 ascents, 159

U.LA.A. : meeting in Prague, 290; meet San Valentin, Mt.: second ascent, 225 of young Alpinists in Belgium, 290 Sat Dag: ascents in, 157 Unsworth, W.: his book: North Fqce, the Sayan Mts.: meet in, 164 Second COtlquest of the Alps, 309 Scott, D.: art. 'A big leaning wall-Cima Urgunt (Urgend): second ascent by Swiss Ovest in photos', 59 route, 178 Sentilo, Pico: first ascent by W face, 21 I Shakhaur: first ascent by N buttress, 175 Sherman, P.: art. 'Huascaran: the West Valuga: ascent, 124 arete, 1969', 131 Vibrams: origin of, 274 Shingeik Zorn II and III: first ascents, 172 Vilcanota, Cordillera: six peaks climbed Shipton, E. E.: his book, That in, 219 Untravelled World, 294 Ski descents: extreme, 31 Ski-mountaineering: 124; grading of Waddington, Mt.: first winter ascent, routes, 281 2 0 7 Sonnblick: ski descent of N face, 33 Walker, J. P.: death, 285 South Africa: some new routes in, 71 ; Wannehorn, Gross: ascent, 128 summary of 1969 season, 150 Waterberg Mountains: ascents in, 71 South Atrak Zorn: correct name of, 169 Watts, N. H. L.: obit., 339 Steepness: examples of in skiing, 38 Weissfluh: ski ascent, 125 Wenck, R.: death, 347 Wiesbachhom, Grosses: ski descent of Talbot, J. 0.: his book, Central NW face, 34 Switzerland: Grimsel-Furka-Susten, Wife Peak (Hindu Kush): first ascent, 166 3 1 5 Wildspitze: ski ascent, 127 356 w-z

Women: highest summits climbed by, Yerupaja Chico: first ascent by SW face, 173 212

Yakushi, Y.: art. 'Gurja Himal: first Zermatt: centenary of the English ascent, 1969', 17 Church,279 Yamnuska: climbs on, 104 Zocca, Pizzo di: by SE ridge, 48; WSW Yerupaja: first ascent by E ridge, 212 antc!cime by new route on ESE ridge, 49 INTERNATIONAL STYLE SKI-WEAR SKIBEKLEIDUNG 1M DER MODE INTERNATIONALE CONFECTION DE SKI A LA MODE INTERNATIONALE

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Mk. 3 Macinnes Folding Stretcher with Transport Wheel

Used by rescue teams, military authorities etc., throughout the world Also, Clothing, Special Casualty bags and Rescue equipment

Available direct from "ICE-AXES", GLENCOE, ARGYLL, SCOTLAND

p·Y·G PEN-Y-GWRYD HOTEL Nantgwynant - Snowdonia The home of British Mountaineering LLANBERIS 211 GUESTS 368 Fully Licenced R.A.C., A.A. Central Heating throughout

MOUNTAINEERING, ROCK CLIMBING, CAMPING & SKI·ING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING SPECIALISTS SUPPLIERS TO EXPEDITIONS & SCHOOLS 0UNTA,N ~~ SPORTS 1, CANNING CIRCUS. iP~ NOTTINGHAM. ~" NG7 3NE 4~ Tel. 47230 Eltpe,' Se,vice 'WE CLIMB &SKI OURSELVES'

xii ROBERT LAWRIE, LTO. Alpine and Polar Equipment Specialists

54 SEYMOUR STREET. MARBLE ARCH, LONDON, W.1. H.5WE

Telephone: 01-7235252 Telegrams & Cablegrams: Alpinist, London, W.1

Business hours: Mon., Tues., Wed. and Friday: 9 a.m.-S.30 p.m. Late closing: Thursday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Early closing: Saturday, 9 a.m.-12 noon.

ALL CLIMBING CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT

PLEASE WRITE FOR DETAILS

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