A TALE OF HILLS

Radin– HERITAGE Mas TRAIL A note from the MP is a beautiful place that combines the old rustic charm with modern feel. We have many interesting places like the grand dame SIT flats, the culturally-rich black-and-white colonial houses, the tranquil Carmelite Monastery and the new kid on the block – The Henderson Waves Bridge. This heritage is very much alive and wanting to capture its essence comes very naturally to us. The Trail Book is our way of preserving the history and heritage. We wish to showcase the unique appeal of Radin Mas and make it easy for everyone to appreciate and understand. I invite you to turn the next few pages and embark on a discovery journey.

Sam Tan MP for GRC Contents

Kampong Radin Mas 02 Black and White Bungalows 04 Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim Mosque 06 Tomb of Raden Mas Ayu, Tanah Kubur Diraja 08 10

Bukit Purmei 14 Carmelite Monastery 16 Tang Gak Beo (The Eastern Hell Temple) 18 St Teresa Church 20

Thousand Buddha Hill 22 Henderson Waves 24 Hill 26

Bukit Merah 28 Zhen Long Gong 30 21 Blocks of Improvement Trust flats 32 Central 34

Map of Trail 36 Editorial Committee & Acknowledgement 37 Golden Villages Kampong Radin Mas

ampong Radin Mas was a small KMalay village situated on the foothills of Mount Faber in Telok Blangah. In its location now are a condominium and the Telok Blangah Rise HDB estate. Mr Wan Hussein, an ex resident of Kampong Radin Mas still remembers the big field and old Radin Mas Primary School that were located at the foot of Mr Hussein adds, “Radin Mas Primary Mount Faber. Students School has moved to its present site at Bukit would play soccer at the Purmei in 1984. My kampong and childhood field after school everyday can only remain in my memory and this sense as this was the main pastime. During the of longing is especially strong every time I pass school’s sports day, the whole kampong by Mount Faber and the remaining colonial would join in to support their children. bungalows.” Mr Hussein’s sister, Madam Wan Fatimah also recalls the days when her family were staying in the kampong.

Open field at Kampong Radin Mas

At night, the field would be transformed into an open air theatre where everyone would gather and pay 10 cents to watch movies. This was the only entertainment for the residents then. There was also a Chinese provision shop located near the main road. It served as a gathering and information exchange Old Radin Mas Primary School point for the residents as news were passed around quickly there.

 Kampong Radin Mas

Old picture of Marang tombs Malay village at Kampong Radin Mas

“All Malay kampong houses were built the doors as compared to now as everyone on stilts, unlike the Chinese houses that sat knew that their neighbours would help on land and we drew our water from wells to look after their houses during their in the kampong. Neighbours staying at the absence. There was community spirit and kampong were very friendly and we took care everyone lived harmoniously together, of one another. There was no need to lock regardless of races.” ¤

Old picture of Telok Blangah estate taken from Mount Faber

 o

j Art Houses Black and White Bungalows

ith its rich heritage and lush Wgreenery, the Radin Mas neighbourhood was a popular area for the rich to build their homes in the mid 20th century. Black-and-white houses were the rage among the European immigrants between 1930 and 1960, characterised by their black timbers and white infill panels. The style was developed in the 1920s to A typical double-storied the 1930s in Europe and the United States bungalow in the old days and was adopted by the colonial migrants when they set up home on this island. motifs on the facades. They were built These double-storied bungalows with reinforced concrete frames and more exhibit the characteristics of the Art Deco traditional timber floor boards on timber style – simple, geometric lines of classical joists. Other defining features include a broad,  Black And White Bungalows

“It is always my dream to live in a black-and-white house, and this one embodies my perception of living in a colonial bungalow. And where else can you live in a place visited every so often by the insects and the wildlife – monkeys, snakes and toads? I love the nature.” Ms Fen Tonge, who moved into one of the houses with her family two years ago

simple, over-hanging hipped roof and sharp definition of openings in the plain white walls. To maximise air and shade, they were built with verandahs, louvered balustrades, Address: 10 Mount Faber Road Nearest MRT Station: air vents and deep eaves. The effect is a clean, Harbour Front MRT uncluttered space of luxurious living. Nearest bus stop: Today, because of their unique architecture 10, 30, 65, 80, 85, 97, 100, 131, 143, and history, these houses are gazetted by 145, 166, 507, 176, 188, 61, 855, 963 the Urban Redevelopment Authority as (Alight at bus stop opposite Vivo City) heritage buildings, and are mostly rented by expatriates. ¤  Residence of the Temenggong Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim Mosque

t is hard to miss this whitewashed immigrants, followed, and the area grew into Ibuilding with jade green roofs opposite a Malay enclave. VivoCity on Telok Blangah The mosque, now managed Road. The mosque, built by the government, used in 1890, is named after the to be the reception hall of the chief of Singapore, Johor Temenggong’s residence. It and Riau in the late 19th remains as a gathering place century. When Stamford during Friday prayers, when Raffles returned to hundreds of Muslims gather for Singapore in 1824 for his religious lectures and blessings. second visit, Temenggong Within the sprawling Daeng Ibrahim signed the compounds lies the Johor’s treaty with him to cede Royal Mausoleum, where Singapore to the British Temenggongs and their empire. followers in the 19th century As Raffles had plans are buried wrapped in royal to develop the area around Singapore yellow cloth. It is the resting place of many River, where the Temenggong and his rulers, including Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim, subjects had settled, he convinced the who died in 1862, and his father Temenggong royal family to move to Telok Blangah. Abdul Rahman, who died in 1825. Others, including Arab and Indonesian For the more adventurous, trek through

 Temmenggong Daeng Ibrahim Mosque

Fast facts Telok Blangah was also known as Kampung Temenggong because of the resettlement of the Temenggong and his followers to the area. The village slowly fell in shambles after families of the Temenggong uprooted and moved to Johor Baru in 1864.

the nearby forest along Marang Road to find Address: 30 Telok Blangah Road Opening Hours: Daily 5.50am – 10pm another Muslim cemetery, abandoned for Nearest MRT Station: many years. Rediscovered only accidentally by Harbour Front MRT a group of trekkers in early 2008, only parts of Nearest bus stop: a brick wall that fenced the cemetery remain. 10, 30, 65, 80, 85, 97, 100, 131, 143, The several dozens of tombs are believed 145, 166, 507, 176, 188, 61, 855, 963 to be the final resting place for the inhabitants (Alight at bus stop opposite Vivo City) of Kampong Marang, forgotten after a big fire.¤

 The Royal Malay Archipelago Tombs Tomb of Raden Mas Ayu

ome say that Radin Mas got its name Sfrom the Princess who rests now under the historical tomb at the foot of Mount Faber.

The beautiful and tragic tale of Javanese princess Raden Mas Ayu began in the 16th century. She was the daughter of a king and a Javanese court dancer, whose beauty was renowned throughout Java. Their marriage was objected by the king’s parents, who deemed the dancer too lowly Today, the tomb is saved from disrepair to wed the king. When the king was away from descendents of the royal family’s for a hunting expedition, his palace was set subjects. Nearby is the tomb of her father. on fire, killing his wife. Heartbroken, the If you are lucky, you might meet Mr Zainol king moved to Singapore with his princess Daeng, who is the unofficial caretaker of and settled down in Telok Blangah. the tomb since his retirement. His great The king remarried a daughter of a grandfather had worked for the king. Temenggong in Singapore but the new wife was jealous of the close relationship between the king and Princess Raden Address: Mount Faber Road Mas Ayu. It did not help that the princess (Opposite Mount Faber Lodge Apartment) inherited the beauty of her mother. The Opening Hours: Daily 9am – 6pm Bus at nearest bus stop: new wife forced her stepdaughter to marry 409 Park Service an evil Tengku. On their wedding day, (Alight after Mount Faber Lodge the groom attacked the princess’ father. Apartment and walk) To defend her father, Princess Raden Mas (Park service only operate on Saturday/ Ayu was stabbed by the Tengku’s kris and Sunday/Public Holiday) died in 1511.  The Royal Indonesian Tombs

Tanah Kubur Diraja About 15 minutes walk from the princess’s cloth – yellow being the colour of royalty. resting place lies another royal graveyard According to some Islamic historians, found among HDB blocks at Bukit Kasita the graveyard was opened in 1530 by (now known as ). Sultan Alaudin Riayat Shah the second, However, exactly who are buried who was the seventh descendent of Sultan hereremains a mystery. However, the Iskandar Zulkarnain Shah, better known graveyard’s name Tanah Kubur Diraja or in Singapore folklore as Sang Nila Utama.¤ “Royal Family Graveyard” likely refers to the Malay sultanate and kings during the early 16th century, who originated from Jambi, a northern state in Sumatra. Within the arched wall ruins of the graveyard are tombstones wrapped in yellow

Address: 532 Kampong Bahru Road Nearest bus stop: 124 143 166 61 (Alight at bus stop outside Blk 102 Bukit Purmei Road and walk)

 Hill with a View Mount Faber

t 105m in height, Mount Faber Amay seem rather diminutive as a “mount”. Nonetheless, the hill, named after Captain Charles Edward Faber, the superintending engineer in the Straits in the mid 19th century, offers a spectacular view of Singapore, particularly the towering skyscrapers in the Central Business District. It is also the home of Jewel Box, which houses chic restaurants, function rooms, and a cable car station Before walking for rides to HarbourFront and an easy 15 minute island. route up to the “peak”, stop by the marina deck, which offers great photography opportunites amid the lush green foliage, blue skies and white clouds. It was erected on the site of a former signal station set up by Captain Faber, who built a narrow winding road to the summit for the station. The station was formerly on Sentosa (known then as Pulau Blakan Mati) before it was moved to Mount Faber (then Tulloh Blangah Hill). The signal Station and flagstaff were on the hill till the early 1970s when the government closed the station. Now in its place is a restaurant catering mostly to tour groups. 10 Mount Faber

11 Continue your journey up to Faber Point, the highest point of Mount Faber. Spend a few coins on the mounted binoculars, you can see clearly the railway station in Tanjong Pagar, the packed HDB blocks of Queenstown and Alexandra, the busy streets of the central business district, and even Sentosa on the horizon. Look- out points will help identify these places.

Tourists and locals alike will also enjoy strolling around this circular platform, which is decorated with copper-tooled mural panels, featuring the colourful history and lifestyle of Singapore. A favourite is the last panel, depicting the food scene in Singapore, that will sure to remind you of your appetite after the walk up the hill. Don’t forget to take a picture of the too, the lion-headed fish- bodied emblem of Singapore tourism.

12 Mount Faber

If you are heading down from the west side of the hill, make a visit to the Golden Bell Mansion on Pender Road. With its white washed walls and a tower shaped like a Buddhist stupa, the building was once a stopover to a famous historical figure – Dr Sun Yat Sen. The Chinese revolutionary leader spent the night of Dec 11, 1911, after his arrival from Europe, at the residence of rich businessman Tan Boo Liat, the great-grandson of Tan Tock Seng. Dr Sun’s wife, three daughters and their maid also stayed there as a layover stop while on the way to Penang from China. After Mr Tan Boo Liat died in Shanghai in 1934, the house was sold. The house fuses sensibilities of colonial and Straits Chinese architecture. Note the star-shaped holes under the roof, a feature of many Peranakan homes. It is now occupied by the Danish Seaman’s Church, formed in 1985. Activities include Danish language classes for children and adults. Members of the church also board any visiting Danish ships to provide amenities such as newspapers. ¤

Address: Mount Faber Road Nearest MRT Station: Harbour Front MRT (Alight at Harbour Front MRT and board cable car at Harbour Front Tower Two, Cable Car Station) Nearest bus stop: 409 Park Service (Park service only operate on Saturday/ Sunday/Public Holiday)

13 Village by the Railway Bukit Purmei r Toh Lam Huat, a Mveteran journalist and his elder brother Mr Toh Kheng Guan recollect their childhood spent in the kampong. “There was a Chinese kampong that was home to about 300 to 500 “attap” houses and also some small farms between the present Silat Road and Kampong Bahru Road. Most of the men in my kampong worked in Sketch of Bukit Purmei in 1971 Harbour Board while the women worked in the defunct now except for De La Salle School nearby rubber factories. which has since moved to . There were many English Nearby, there was a railway track leading and Chinese schools along to Tanjong Pagar Railway Station. Many Kampong Bahru – Sacred Heart Boys children would cross the track to reach their School, St Teresa Sino-English School (also schools on the other side. Residents living on known as Hua Ying Primary School) and both sides would also trek across to reach the St Teresa High School, all of which were other side. It was noisy and dirty for those

14 Bukit Purmei

living nearby but no one was bothered by it as employees who were mainly Indians and it had become a part of their life. However, we Chinese. had heard of cases whereby people were hit by Most workers would walk along trains as they were not careful when crossing Nelson Road to reach Gate 5, one of the the track. In time to come, all the tracks were entrances to Harbour Board. Many push fenced up to prevent further accidents. Now, cart hawker stalls could be found lined I shuddered at the thought of how dangerous up along this road, selling all sorts of it was to walk around the track.” local food to the workers. As we worked Ex-resident of Nelson Road, on shifts around the clock, food could Mr Samiappan also reminisces be found anytime there. In addition to about his younger days the hawker stalls, there were numerous working at Singapore Habour provision shops and a privately owned Board. wet market that sold daily necessities. The “I stayed at Nelson Road entire area was alive with activities and after I started working at functioned very much like a mini town Singapore Harbour Board centre. (replaced by Port of Singapore After my retirement, Nelson Road Authority in 1964). The Nelson Road residences were demolished to make way residences were built for Harbour Board for the Keppel Distripark.” ¤

Nelson Road residences 15 A Nun’s Home Carmelite Monastery

16 Carmelite Monastery

ucked quietly on a hillock at Bukit Teresa TRoad, this sanctuary with a beautiful garden is the only Carmelite monastery in Singapore. Nuns, about 20 of them who have dedicated themselves to their faith, call the place home, leading simple solitude lives. The Carmelites of the Roman Catholic order has origins that go back to 12th century Palestine. This monastery in Singapore was founded in 1938 by a French nun named Mother Therese Des Anges at the invitation of the Bishop of Malacca. It was part of a Catholic village settlement which consisted of six bungalows and ten barrack houses for the Catholic community The nuns rarely go out of the grounds barely half the size of a football field. They spend most of their days in prayers but make “altar bread” or communion hosts, sew religious robes and make candles and Address: 106 Bukit Teresa Road Opening Hours: Church is only open Christmas cards for sale through the Catholic during Mass: Monday to Saturday: Welfare Service. 6.30am, Sunday 7.30am Visitors may also come to ask for prayers Nearest bus stop: from the nuns when the common hall of the 61, 124, 143, 166 monastery is open to the public from 9am (Alight at bus stop in front of the to 11am and 2pm to 5pm every day, except St Teresa Church on Kampung Bahru during Lent (the 40 days before Easter) and Road and walk) Advent, which is from Dec 2 to Christmas. ¤ 17 Hail the Underworld Tang Gak Beo (The Eastern Hell Temple)

18 Tang Gak Beo

ell is no place anyone wants to be. So a Htemple, named after the biggest region of the underworld according to Taoist beliefs, must be a place to avoid. In reality, Tang Gak Beo is visited by many, as devotees make their offerings to the ruler of the Eastern Hell for protection and peace of mind. Look out for the two idols of Hei Bai Wu Chang, or the Heartless Black and White Demons, which are a rarity in Taoist temples. These two were guards of the Chinese Hell whose tasks were to bring the souls of the dead to hell for sentencing by the King of the Hell. However, this temple, with more than 100 years of history, is not just about the scares. This building, which has just been renovated Between the fifth and fifteen day of the in recent years, was constructed using the Lunar New Year, you will also find many ancient Chinese architectural methods – no devotees making their offerings to Tai Sui, nails were used in the mish-mash of columns a deity in the temple. It is believed that and beams. On Sundays, you might catch those whose Chinese Zodiac clashes with mediums performing rites for the deceased or the Tai Sui should pray to the deity seeking even wedding ceremonies between the living peace and good fortune throughout the and the dead. year. ¤

Address: 6 Bukit Purmei Road Opening Hours: Daily 7am – 4.45pm (Every 1st and 15th day of the Lunar calendar month: 6am – 4.45pm) Nearest bus stop: 61, 124, 143, 166 (Alight at bus stop outside St. Teresa Church and walk)

19 The White Sanctuary St Teresa Church

he church, known Taffectionately as the “Little Flower”, was officially blessed and opened on April 7, 1929. Hailed as the first rural Catholic church in Singapore, it was built with mainly the growing Chinese Hokkien-speaking communities in mind. It was named after Saint Teresa of the Child Jesus, who was canonized in 1925 and Local priest Fr declared the Patroness of Foreign Stephen Lee then Missions by the Pope in 1927. took over as head Inspired by the Romano- of the Chinese Byzantine design of the Catholic Mission Basilica of the Sacred Heart in and led the church, Paris, the church, with its all- branching into white domes and towers, rose community work, magnificently in the district including the of Kampong Bahru and was building of the now designed to accommodate 1,400 defunct St Teresa’s worshippers. High School and St Visitors to the church will be Teresa’s Orphanage. amazed by the beautifully crafted During World War stain glass images, installed Two, he also opened in 1931 at the back of the the church’s doors sanctuary of the Parish Church, to many stranded which chronicles the life of the people from Malaya, Patron Saint, St Therese of Lisieux. as well as women who sought help. The sharp-eyed will notice a marble Today, the church continues the tradition plaque on the right wall of the church’s of serving Catholic seafarers – it maintains the front entrance dedicated to the memory Stella Maris Catholic Seamen’s Mission. It is of Rev Monsignor Emile Joseph Mariette, also the only Romano-Byzantine architecture who saw to the building of the church. in Singapore. ¤ 20 St Teresa Church

Address: 510 Kampong Bahru Road Opening Hours: Church is only open during Mass: Weekdays: 6pm, Saturday 5.30pm, Sunday 8.30am, 10.30am, 12.30pm, 6pm Nearest bus stop: 61, 124, 143, 166 (Alight at bus stop in front of the St Teresa Church on Kampung Bahru Road and walk)

21 Tales behind the Hill Thousand Buddha Hill

ashington Hill or Telok Blangah There was also a Buddha statue on the WHill as it is currently known was slope which was subsequently demolished part of the Mount Faber ridge. When together with the temples when the the extension of Henderson Road at government acquired the land. Two idols, to Telok Blangah Road was one of which is a rarely seen unusual seven- constructed in 1970s, it sliced up the headed dragon statue, can now be found in original Mount Faber ridge; one part Nei Xue Tang, a privately owned Buddhist art remained as the Mount Faber; and the museum.” other section was renamed Telok Blangah Mdm Chia Mui Huay who used to be a Hill. helper at World Buddhist Society remembers Mr Woon Wee Teng, a fondly the legends surrounding the temple, retired lawyer and a famous including the Python paying respect to the collector of Buddhist Buddha statue and the seven-headed dragon artifacts and antiquities, statue which refused to move out of the reminisces the memories of temple, etc. Telok Blangah Hill. “The temple was popular with the locals who visited it during the first and fifteen day of the lunar month and on Vesak Day. The temple was also promoted as an important tourist attraction. Busloads of tourists would arrive daily after visiting Mount Faber in the 1970s and 1980s.

Thousand Buddha Temple “Washington Hill was also known as the Thousand Buddha Hill to locals. It got its name from the three Buddhist buildings found there. They were the Thousand Buddha Temple which had countless number of small Buddha idols on its walls, a smaller temple down the road and the former Alkaff mansion which served as the World Buddhist Society headquarters. A metal plate nailed to a rostrum on one side of the temple courtyard bore testimony to its illustrious history. 22 Thousand Buddha Hill

Old picture of Alkaff mansion

As everyone wanted However, to draw divinations at the all these could temple, the temple invented only remain in an automated divination Mdm Chia’s machine called Rishi Wheel memory. Except of Fortune to manage the for the old Alkaff high demand. The fortune- mansion, the Thousand seeker would insert a 20-cent coin into the Buddha Temple and box which caused the wheel to spin and give its legends had given a number. A paper containing the divination way to the beautiful based on this number could then be collected. landscaped This is hardly seen in Singapore now.” garden. ¤ 23 Overhead Wonder Henderson Waves

walk from the start to the end of this The yellow slats on the deck are made A274m bridge should take only about from balau wood, an all-weather timber found five minutes but people tend to take a lot in South-east Asia. Watch out for carvings longer, because of the view it offers. At on the slats which mark the height at various 36m above Henderson Road, Henderson points along the bridge. Waves is the highest pedestrian bridge in At night, the bridge is a luminous stage of Singapore. LED lights which makes it a marvel to gaze. From dog-walkers to the elderly, Officially opened in 2008, it was built pedestrians will enjoy the scenic greens on to connect the two hills of Mount Faber both sides of the bridge, a unique wave of and Telok Blangah Hill, and is part of the seven undulating “ribs” that rise and fall development, a 9km chain under the deck like rolling waves – hence of greenery that also includes its name. They are not for decorations; Park. The entire project costs the Urban they also serve as shelters against rain. Redevelopment Authority $25.5 million. ¤ 24 Henderson Waves

“You don’t have to travel to other countries when we have beautiful places like this in Singapore.” – Madam Mila Ahmad, visiting the Southern Ridges with her family

Address: Henderson Road Nearest bus stop: 131, 145, 176, 648 (Alight at bus stop along Henderson Road, take the staircase up to Mount Faber Park)

The wave-forms will be lit with attractive LED light from 7pm to 2am daily, giving the bridge an illuminative glow.

25 Of Nature and Sight Telok Blangah Hill

he hill is an area steeped in history Tand is home to some of nature’s flora and fauna. Once more known for Alkaff Mansion, a sprawling colonial white house owned by the Alkaffs, a wealthy Arab family who moved to Singapore in the mid 1800s, it was used by the Japanese army during the Japanese occupation. After the war, the Alkaff Mansion in the 1990s building was rented by the World Buddhist Society as its headquarters before it was turned into a venue for fine dining and entertainment in 1986. Because of its grand exterior and beautiful terraced gardens, the Alkaff Mansion was a popular location for wedding photography shoots. However, the restaurant had since closed down and the forsaken grand mansion is all that remains to remind us of its past.

Another main feature of is the Terrace Gardens. A popular spot for wedding couples, it consists of a series of semi-circular terraces located at the top of the park. You can enjoy a breath- taking view of the surrounding city from this point. Colourful bougainvilleas are planted on each terrace to enhance its charm More recently, it is known for being one and beauty. of the stopovers for the Southern Ridges, a Come in the morning or evening 9km chain of greenery linking Mount Faber and join the residents from the nearby and Telok Blangah Hill Park to West Coast neighbourhoods for their exercises such as Park. The Hilltop Walk, a steps-free elevated Taichi and jogging. Alternatively, you can walkway on one side of Telok Blangah Hill sit back and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere brings visitors through the secondary forest and watch the birds and butterflies in their before connecting to Alexandra Arch. natural surroundings. ¤ 26 Telok Blangah Hill Of Nature and Sight Telok Blangah Hill

Address: Telok Blangah Green off Henderson Road Nearest bus stop: 131, 145, 176, 273 (Alight at bus stop along Henderson Road and proceed on foot via Telok Blangah Green) 57, 175,195 (Alight at Depot Road and proceed on foot via footpath behind HDB Blk 103A or 104C) 27 Painting the Town Red Bukit Merah

he name Bukit Merah, or Red Hill in TMalay, is inspired by the red soil in the area. Back in the 1960s, Jalan Bukit Merah was simply a muddy rust-coloured track, before its present reincarnation as a major road in the west. Two Malay legends surrounded the Bukit Merah name. One was about a boy who taught the local king on how to use the trunks of banana trees to build a fence and trap swordfishes plaguing the fishermen. the boy’s life by forming a fountain that The plan worked but seeing how intelligent spewed blood to scare off the soldiers. the boy was, the insecure ruler was jealous, The other legend, recounted in and ordered his soldiers to kill the child. Serajah Melayu, a collection of Malay oral The pursuit ended at the top of a hill and traditions, attributed the cause of the red blood spilled over the land, bathing the soil soil to the blood of a holy man, who was red, and hence the name. Another version executed after he tried to use his magic to had a happier ending – an old witch saved impress the wife of a king.

Pigs rearing 28 Bukit Merah

Mr Tan Bok Seng whose father was the kampong head in Bukit Merah, chooses to continue to reside in the vicinity even after Glass bottle making his kampong made way for redevelopment. Mr Tan recalls his childhood and the life of people living in the kampong. “As my great grandfather owned a vermicelli factory, we would climb up the hill early in the morning to lay the vermicelli on the racks and then return in the evening to collect them when they were dried. It was tough work then.

As a predominantly Chinese kampong, there were a number of Chinese temples for worship. These temples were subsequently re-housed in the present day temple, Zhen Long Gong in Redhill when the kampongs were demolished and SIT and HDB flats built in their place. Today, the pig farms and kampongs are gone. Bukit Merah has become a town central where culture, commerce, sports Preparing food for the pigs as well as the commuters’ centre come together. Rearing pigs was one of the livelihoods Occasionally, of the Chinese living in the kampong. some older Every morning, the pig owners would generation still trek to other kampongs and returned with refer to this place cartloads of leftover food collected from as ‘Glass Factory’ those households to feed their pigs. Besides and talk about rearing pigs, there were also other kampong the once very dwellers who chose to work in the nearby popular private bus Hock Ann Bricks Factory and Singapore company, Hock Glass Manufacture, which are no longer Lee. Hearing this around. makes me nostalgic.” ¤ 29 Harmony of Four Zhen Long Gong

nder the one roof of Zhen Long UGong at 98-T Redhill Close is a rare harmony of four different Taoist worshippers. Four different temples – Jie Gu Dian, Long Shan Ting, Wan Xian Miao and Zhen Ren Gong – are housed in the same premises as their original locations made way for urban redevelopment in the late 1970s and early 1980s. The main deity worshipped is Da Bo Gong, an important figure for the Hokkien community. Zhen Long Gong’s history traced back more than 100 years ago, when a group of young immigrants from Fujian, China brought their deity Bao Sheng Da Di here in 1912 to Singapore. The god, a physician born in the Song dynasty was worshipped for his superb medical and healing skills. “Our ancestors have Then, the immigrants were believed to brought their heritage have only brought back the sacred robes of and culture from China to the deity but not his idol as they were too poor. Today, the robes still exist, placed in come here, and it is our a wrapped package in front of the statue in legacy now to carry it on.” the centre of the temple. ¤ Ng Ah Hong, who has been helping out at Zeng Long Gong for more than 30 years

30 ZhenZeng Long Long Gong Gong

Address: 98T Redhill Close Opening Hours: Daily 7am – 6pm 15th day of the Lunar calendar month, 5am – 6pm Temple will extend their visiting hours to 10.30pm during festival ritual sessions. Nearest bus stop: 14, 147, 196, 197, 855, 961 (Alight at bus stop after Bukit Merah CC and walk) 31 Short and Stout 21 Blocks of Singapore Improvement Trust flats

hese low-rise blocks appear During the construction of the buildings, diminutive among their much Henderson Hill was levelled. A market was Ttaller brothers surrounding them. also built next to the blocks, serving not Affectionately known as “Seven Storey only the residents but also labourers in the Houses”, the 21 blocks of flats built mornings on the way to work at the under the Singapore Improvement Trust shipyards. programme – the entity before HDB was It was not until 1982, when all of the 82 units formed – were built in the 1950s after of three-room flats were no longer rented people were relocated from their attap out and were sold to their occupants. A $1.3 houses in Redhill. Rent was kept at $52 a million refurbishment was undertaken by month, which was affordable only to the the Housing Development Board. In 1995, middle-income group. a major upgrading project went underway The astute will notice that No. 4 is to update the interiors of the apartments, as missing from the block of flats numbered well as the surroundings to include dramatic from 1 to 22. While housewives’ tales archways, palm-lined covered linkways and would suggest that the number was bad landscaped courtyards. luck according to Chinese mythology, and hence was taken away, the block was actually demolished to make way for roadworks.

32 21 blocks of Singapore Improvement Trust flats

Hock Lee Bus

Today, the flats are occupied by mostly elderly, many are residents who have lived there for decades. If you are paying a visit, you might meet one of their more illustrious residents – the eight former samsui women, or female construction workers during Singapore’s foundation years, who were known for their signature red headdresses. ¤

Address: Blk 1 – 22 Redhill Close Nearest MRT Station: Redhill MRT Nearest bus stop: 14, 147, 196, 197, 855, 961. (Alight at bus stop after Bukit Merah CC) 63 (opp Blk 73) 132, 145, 32, 33, 64 (opp Redhill MRT)

33 An Estate’s Heartbeat Bukit Merah Central

ince the 1930s, Bukit Merah had Sslowly transformed from a hilly kampong to a modern town. Some of the industries located in the area gave the area nicknames that continue to be used today by the older generation. For example, some referred the area as Beehoon Pore or Vermicelli Hill as there were at least five families who manufactured vermicelli or clear, thin noodles in the area in the 1950s. The factories have since moved after the Government developed the area into a housing estate, but the name stuck till today. Another name that stuck among the Hokkien community is Poon Saw Pore or Rubbish hill. In the early 20th century, the undeveloped tropical swamps in the area were filled with the city’s refuse. Garbage disposal factories became common, hence the moniker. With redevelopment and renewal, the town is anything but the dumps now. Bukit Merah Central has developed into a typical town centre. Most of the essential public facilities are in place. There are bus interchange, schools, supermarket, polyclinic, hawker centres, shops and library. Regular performances are Fast facts showcased at the amphitheatre. Shops also The earth at Bukit Merah was sticky red clay with a lot of sandstones carry a variety of products that cater to the and mudstones, which made it everyday needs. suitable for making red bricks used Surrounding this is the presence in construction. That gave rise to the of Spring Singapore and factories of establishment of brickworks, including light industries. These help to bring Hock Ann Brickworks, which stood on employment to the people of Bukit Merah the present site of Hock San Estate. and businesses to the various shops and Brickwork establishments began in amenities. 1930s. Amongst them were Hock Ann Brickworks, which stood on the present site of Hock San Estate, and Alexandra Brickworks on Road.

34 Bukit Merah Central

Bukit Merah Central was also once the home of Housing and Development Board Headquarters, the two-towered building that lay claim as an important landmark in the district. During its heyday, many HDB staff descended upon the hawker centres which serve much good food during lunch break and brought vibrancy to the estate. The HDB has since moved from the premises. The building is now renamed Connection One and has become a hub for small and medium enterprises. These days, due to its strategic and centralised location, Bukit Merah still remains as one of the most sought after estate for HDB flat buyers.¤

Address: Bukit Merah Central Nearest bus stop: Bukit Merah Interchange: 5, 16, 57, 123, 131, 132, 139, 153, 167, 176, 198, 272, 273, 275, 851 Bus stop along Jalan Bukit Merah: 14, 147, 196, 197, 855, 961 (Alight at bus stop after Bukit Merah MacDonald’s)

35 Map of the Trail 36 Editorial Committee Advisors Mr Sam Tan Chin Siong, MP for Tanjong Pagar GRC Mr Lim Huan Chiang, JP, BBM, Chairman, Radin Mas CCC Chairman Mr Kenny Lim Co-Chairman Mr Andrew Mah Members Ms Emily Tan, Ms Lai Tsai Yi , Ms Mabel Tan, Ms Teo Bee Lan, Ms Tracy Tan, Mr Tan Kim Leng, Mr Benjamin Chua, Mr Lee Sze Yong, Mr Ng Chee Wee

Acknowledgement We would like to thank the following who have contributed to the making of this book in every possible way.

Radin Mas Primary School Raffles Design Institute National Archives of Singapore National Heritage Board Urban Redevelopment Authority Mr Tan Bok Seng, BBM Mr Mohamad Ghouse Khan Surattee Mr Woon Wee Teng Mdm Chia Mui Huay Ms Fen Tonge Mr Samiappan Mr Toh Lam Huat Mr Toh Kheng Guan Mr Wan Hussein Mdm Wan Fatimah

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