Special Tourism and Leisure

The Hérault today Nature/Environment Origins Life in the Hérault Festivals and celebrations Food and wine

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THE HÉRAULT TODAY Tourism on the waterways and in the vineyards, shellfish farming and innova- tive urbanism… the Hérault of the 21C combines dynamism and a love of life. The The great leisure waterway 4 Tasting on site 6 Etang de Thau (Thau Salt Lake) A journey through the marine garden 8 A city of passions 9

NATURE/ENVIRONMENT Well before fashion made an old war-horse of the subject, because of their nature and certainly also because of the interest in the stakes, the people of the Hérault already had it in their hearts to protect their environment. Today, 60% of the coas- tal area is preserved… Bagnas Reserve Nature is for the birds 10 Kaleidoscope of abundance Over 30 protected species 12 Nature takes priority The preserved coastal area 14

ORIGINS Traces of the past and ancient customs come together: jousting, drumming and passion of the “bull god” 2 A glimpse at some of the history 17 The Jousts 19 The bull herds of the Lunel countryside 20

LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT 300 days out of each year in the sun, between the mountains and the sea… Discover the lifestyle of the people of the Hérault through their language, their rites, leisure activities and projects. On this soil of the South 21 Culture 22 Living beside the sea 23 Sporting activities - just around the corner! 24 The picture tradition 26 Balneotherapy 26

FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS Galas and carnivals, village fairs and festivals… throughout the whole year, highlights to be shared with pleasure Carnivals, ceremonies and galas 27 Village fêtes 28 Variety in art 29

FOOD AND WINE From three stars to the tiny inn, recipes and specialities, an exceptional land for exceptional wines…carpe diem! Gastronomy 30

This magazine is edited for 2002/2003 by the Department of the Hérault Tourism Committee. Editor Martine MERLIN-DHAINE - design and creation : DDB Haute Saison - RC Toulouse 95 B 1458. Photo credits: P. 1 : Liégeois - P. 2/3 : Liégeois, Comte, Grosclaude - P. 4/5 : Liégeois, Comte - P. 6/7 : Liégeois, Comte, Le Guen, Lallemand - P. 8/9 : Liégeois, Comte, Mairie de Montpellier, Soulié imprimeur - P. 10/11 : Liégeois, Orel, Lallemand , C.A.U.E - P. 12/13 : Bertrand, Liégeois, Berthillier, Fesquet - P. 14/15 : Liégeois, Comte, Bertrand, C.A.U.E. - P. 16/17 : Comte, Grosclaude, Bury, Bertrand, Iacoponelli, Cambon - P. 18/19 : Liégeois, Gas, O.D.S.H., OT de Sète - P. 20/21 : Liégeois, CDT Hérault, Comte, Girod - P. 22/23 : Liégeois, OT Montpellier, Comte, Bertrand - P. 24/25 : Verthongen, Grosclaude, Liégeois, Gas, Lallemand, Girod - P. 26/27 : Lallemand, Tableau Musée Fabre, Grosclaude - P. 28/29 : Grosclaude, Comte, Mas - P. 30/31 : Lejeune, Crassous, Gas, Le Guen. e live here all year round and today we would like to share with you Wour South and its sunshine, its sea and lakes, mountains and EDITORIAL artists’ towns, its forests and cliffs, vineyards and garrigues, its ports and beaches, the canal and the rivers, the beauty of the light and the joys of the life here… Everything, just everything that you dream of when you close your suitcase for a few days or a few weeks of holidays, you will find here. Everything is in the Hérault. First of all, the Hérault gives you the freedom to not have to choose, but to do as you please, whether it is climbing, swimming, sampling local produce or simply absorbing the culture. Whatever you feel like, at any time of the day. You will find just a small sample in the following pages. In the Hérault, it is up to you to invent the holiday that you want, at any time of year, with the certainty that you will be enchanted by a reality much richer in flavour than the pictures and much stronger than the words.

Great destinations in the Hérault GARRIGUES PAYS DE THAU Pic St.Loup – Upper Valley of the Hérault. Land of the sun, around the Etang de Thau and the Mas- At the gates of Montpelier, between the Cevennes and the sif de la Gardiole. The towns and villages of this land of Mediterranean. A land of secrets and preserved charms, to be fishermen and shellfish farmers will astound you with their savoured at the slow, leisurely pace of the outdoors. diversity of natural, cultural and historical riches. Pays d’Accueil : Tel: +00 33(0)4 67 55 16 82 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 67 55 16 97 Pays de Thau : Tel: +00 33(0)4 99 57 22 50 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 99 57 22 59 Website: www.cardonille.com Website: www.paysdethau.com - E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] PAYS DE BEZIERS CAUSSES ET VALLEES Cradle of Pierre Paul Riquet (creator of the Canal du In the heart of the Hérault, surrounded by 4 exceptional Midi) and long-time capital of wine and rugby, Béziers sites - the Cirque de Navacelles, Saint Guilhem le Désert, and this region offers a wealth of culture through its out- standing sites - the Fonséranes locks, St. Nazaire , the Oppi- 3 Salagou Lake and Pézenas - the golden valley and the Larzac foothills are a combination of nature and culture. dum of Enserune and lake. Pays d’Accueil : Tel: +00 33(0)4 67 57 58 83 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 67 57 67 95 Office du Tourisme (Tourist Office): Tel: +00 33(0)4 67 76 47 00 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 67 76 50 80 Website: www.mnet.fr/caussesetvallees E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] MINERVOIS HAUT-LANGUEDOC Pays Cathare The Hérault section of the Regional Natural Park of Haut- From the glory of the ancient town of Minerve centre of Languedoc, between the Atlantic and Mediterranean clima- the Cathars to the undulating countryside covered in vineyards tes, the foothills of the mountains open out onto the plains and garrigue, discover 2000 years of history and wine culture. and the vineyards. Nature tourism is at home here. Maison du Minervois : Tel: +00 33(0)4 68 27 80 00 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 68 91 70 95 Parc Haut-Languedoc : Tél. +00 33(0)4 67 97 38 22 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 67 97 38 18 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Maison du Tourisme St. Pons (St. Pons Tourist Centre) Tel: +00 33(0)4 67 97 06 65 MONTPELLIER MEDITERRANEE Little Camargue CaussesC A City of the South! It has the accent, the shaded squares; ett Vallées Garriguguess its jewels are the garrigues, the lakes, the Little Camargue and PPic Saint-LoLoup the Mediterranean, with its beach resorts at Palavas, Carnon and La HHaut Languedocuedo Parc Naturel Régionagion l Grande Motte. Office du Tourisme (Tourist Office): Tel: +00 33(0)4 67 60 60 60 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 67 60 60 61 Website: www.ot-montpellier.fr - E-mail: [email protected] Méditerrand anée VignobleVVig Petiteite Camaamargue VIGNOBLES Faugerois - St Chinianaisn Faugères and Saint-Chinian wine regions. In soil, the renowned vineyards and a warm welcome Minervervoiiss Pays Cathare combine to offer the tourist the discovery of regional products. Charte Coteaux de l’Orb : Tel: +00 33(0)4 67 38 11 10 - Fax: +00 33(0)4 67 38 20 50 E-mail: [email protected] Payaysys de Béziers THE HÉRAULT TODAY The Canal du Midi, the great leisure waterway

Originally an economical artery dedicated to transport of merchandise, the canal has taken on a new life thanks to our leisure society. T A here is no point in hurrying…the economic deve- fter several decades of inactivity, lopment of Languedoc owes much to this long, green ribbon the Canal du Midi has come alive again where barges and other vessels with holds full of wine vats, thanks to waterways tourism. What can be more relaxing than to take a boat trip cereals and cloth once glided along. On the banks, life was very – at 6 km./ hr – bordered by the foliage closely associated with the canal, with dockers and storage of the century-old plane trees, going warehouses, odd jobs associated with maintenance of the through almond-shaped locks and locks, towpaths, draught-horses, little bits and pieces here passing under small, arched bridges, and there, people selling ropes, wood, vegetables… surrounded by soft, rolling countryside 4 right up to the salt lakes. Passing through towns also takes on another meaning, and its Gothic collegiate church, Béziers with its out- standing view over the cathedral, the black basalt towns of Vias, and , followed by Sète, the view of the lakes…Listed a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1996, the Canal du Midi is now sure to keep its perso- nality and charm for a long time to come.

Some history…

This 240 kilometres long canal that joins Toulouse to the Mediterranean was the work of Pierre Paul Riquet, although the Romans had already considered building a canal. By solving the problem of feeding the canal with a constant supply of water, the Béziers businessman, with the support of Colbert, a minister of Louis XIV, launched the works that were to last for 15 years. From 1667 to 1681, 12,000 workers dug and built outstanding structures. Riquet died a ruined man, just one year before the inauguration of the canal. To see: The round lock at Agde, the stairway of locks at Fonséranes, the canal aqueduct and the Malpas tunnel, the bird reserve at Roque-Haute, etc. On foot, by mountain bike or by boat along the waterway… Unwinding, 5 the tranquil way The best way to make the most of the canal is on foot, by bike or maybe on horseback. Go with family and friends for a walk, a picnic or an early-morning jog. This is when you see it in its full, calm and shaded beauty, a haven of nature within the reach of everyone’s dreams. A stroll or a hike, lasting several hours, days or weeks, meeting the lock- keepers in their little, flower-decked lock-houses, a canal cruise, watching the birds, a gourmet stop at a small inn or visiting the cellars of a wine grower – the spirit of the canal is in the relaxation, so much so that, to your surprise, you may catch yourself whispering! HÉRAULT TODAY Tasting on site

The wine of the Hérault graces the finest tables in the world. Visit the producers - the bonus is the accent! D ionysus loved this land and there’s no doubt the vineyard growers with their work-worn that Bacchus, his Latin double, loved it even hands. Here too, the talents of the female more. From ancient times, this land dedicated to wine growers can be witnessed more and the sun like an amphitheatre, together with the more often, proof of the modernity and work of man, has lent a dimension of timelessness vitality of this land. In the cellars and wine to the vineyards of the Hérault. In this heart of stores, the tasting may take on the allure Languedoc the vine is not so much a tradition, of a ceremonial gathering or the tone of a 6 more a culture or even a civilisation deeply friendly get-together. The wine-makers inscribed in the memories of both man and love to talk about the qualities of their countryside, and nowadays provides dynamism wines, explaining the subtle nuances for the future in its research of excellence. Traces and sharing the pleasure of this culture can be found everywhere; in the of tasting. countryside formed by the vineyards, in the architecture of the villages with their vast vine- growers’ houses, around the abbeys and the châteaux built in early history and in the festivals and literature. This is where rich, varied wines are produced, some of which rank among the best in the world and take the place of honour on the table of the great gourmets. Here in the Hérault light, the wine tells its story through the accent and the craggy faces of 7

T o taste: the marvellous pays d’Oc wines and the famous AOC from the Minervois, Picpoul, Saint-Chinian, Faugères, Clairette du Languedoc, Côteaux du Languedoc (Pic Saint-Loup etc.), and also the brandies and muscats, 14 appellations including the famous Muscat and the muscats from , Saint- Jean de Minervois and Lunel. Sample direct at the producers or at the “Comptoir des Vins du Languedoc” (the Languedoc Wine Counter) at the Mas de Saporta, Lattes. E Vines near the Hortus. vents not to be missed: “La Circulade des Vins de Terroir” (circuit of regional wines) from April to Major actors in the traditional economy September. “Primeur Hérault Primeur d’Automne” (New Hérault Autumn wines) offers a month of festivities from of the department, the vineyards cover the 3rd Thursday in October.“La Fête du pressurage” (the 110,000 hectares, the biggest in the Festival of wine-pressing) is at . There is also “Rencontres avec le terroir” (rural encounters) organised world. They produce 7.7million hecto- by the vine-growers cooperative and “Vitrines des litres, of which 10% are AOC. At the Terroirs d’Oc” (showcase of Oc produce), circuits dedicated to wine, combining tourist visits and sampling Concours Général Agricole contest of offered by the Chambre d’Agriculture. 2001, the Hérault won 150 medals of which 31 were gold and 27 silver. HÉRAULT TODAY Etang deThau a journey through the marine garden

Montbazin

Villeveyrac Balaruc-le-Vieux

Etang d’Ingril

Loupian Balaruc les-Bains Frontignan Castelnau-de-Guers la Peyrade

Pinet Mèze

8 L’Hérault Etang Sète de Thau Saint-Thibéry Pomerols Marseillan Mer L’Hérault Méditerranée

Vias Agde

Le Cap d’Agde La Tamarissière T Le Grau d’Agde he Bassin de Thau is a world apart, colourful, lively, a place of product quality, with the help of the traditional which comes alive between dawn and flaming sunset with expertise of the breeders and the ecological control of gardeners-breeders in their flat-bottomed boats, bass, bream and eel the lake. fishermen and producers-restaurateurs serving sumptuous platters of fresh shellfish in a simple, family atmosphere. Thau is a calm D inland sea teeming with fish. Since time immemorial it has also been iscover the little world of the Etang de Thau : start a breeding place for oysters and shellfish. The oyster park goes as far at the panoramic viewpoint at Mont Saint-Clair at Sète. as the eye can see, like beautifully cared-for little gardens at water From there follow the banks by mountain bike or follow level. Following the banks we go past villages with lime washed the coast by boat, taking care not to get too close to the houses and little ports with brightly coloured fishing boats, nets breeding areas. From Sète and Pointe Courte with its drying in the sun and a very special light…and we are plunged into fishing quarter and its water’s edge chalets, to Balaruc-le an atmosphere filled, with mixed reminiscences of ancient Greece, Bains and Bouzigues, capital of the oyster, mussel and and . The bassin de Thau alone covers 7,500 hectares and clam production, then on to the Greek town of Mèze and two thousand people work there, in essentially family-owned the lakeside village of Mourre-Blanc and round to activities, with an economy that is only just second to wine growing. Marseillan with its port. The Etang de Thau is the only The Bassin de Thau produces over half of the oysters consumed in stretch of salt water accessible to river craft without going – Bouzigues oysters, both flat and cupped. Currently at the out to sea, itself very shallow. heart of the profession’s projects is the maintenance MontpellierMediterranean and university M ontpellier has lived through one thousand years and gone through this time with redoubled enthusiasm, nourished by a joy of living and a thirst for knowledge. This is a large, bright city, alive with its 60,000 students, its crowded, colourful terraces full of activity in the sunshine, with a certain taste for culture, dancing, music, theatre, architecture, strolling around in the evening and animated dis- cussions. 8th biggest city in France, Montpellier had around 240,000 inhabitants at the last population census. 9 R egional capital, Montpellier is a city of mixed and shared backgrounds, traditions and creative activities. It boasts a very old, internationally renowned Faculty of Medicine and high-technology centres with 10,000 researchers, artists and a very lively population that enjoys colour- ful markets, the new tramway, gar- dens and new quarters. T o absorb the city comple- tely, taking each in turn, go through the old, enclosed and colourful centre of Montpellier, with its renaissance residences, remi- niscent of Tuscany, the classic 18C Pey- rou gardens and the Place de la Comédie, the neoclassic Antigone designed by the archi- tect Ricardo Bofill. Then follow the banks of the Lez towards the Hôtel de Région and then on to Port Marianne, the urban, river port that brings the Mediterranean back to Montpellier - its companion since time immemorial! NATURE/ENVIRONMENT

The wish and desire to preserve an exceptional environment, the respect for nature and the love of the countryside have gradually become anchored in the spirit of the 10 people of the Hérault, to the extent that a great deal of advance has been made concerning environ- mental regulations. The Hérault coastline is currently the most widely protected of the French Mediterranean coastlines. There are numerous natural sites in the middle of the countryside: mountain masses, lakes, gorges and canyons have been listed and preserved for several years and the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc includes part of the Hérault. For nature lovers this is an immense, rich and varied territory that offers great pleasure through a multitude of walks, hikes, discoveries – between the mountains and the sea.

Illustrations: the Hérault C.A.U.E. Bagnas reserve Nature is for the birds

The Bagnas reserve is made up of 561 hectares of lakes, marshes, “sansouires” (a kind of salt flat, see * below) and cultivated land between Agde and Marseillan. Following the correct procedures, it is an invitation to watch hundreds of nesting and migrating birds. 11 O riginally the Bagnas lake was part of the vast as the reed bunting, bearded tit and sandpiper rest or Hérault delta, which became filled with alluvial nest here. Permanent residents also nest in the deposits and softened by the water from the Canal du reserve, all kinds of warblers, buntings, purple herons, Midi. This area of low ground soon became covered many kinds of bitterns, black-winged stilts and of with a vegetation of fine, transparent reeds that are course, a few pink flamingos. The Bagnas reserve highly valued by the birds. belongs partly to the coastline Conservatory. Bagnas natural reserve is a vast, humid area where over 150 types of birds have been seen, varying according to the seasons. In winter, ducks and coots are in abundance. In the spring and autumn, migrators such

For bird watchers: there is a free observation point (take your binoculars) on the D 51 between Marseillan-Plage and Marseillan- Village. Outings, with very strictly regulations, are organised all year. Information can be obtained at the Societé de Protection de Nature d’Agde (the Agde nature protection society).

* sansouire: alluvial land becoming covered by white, salt efflorescence during the intense heat and where a particular type of vegetation, “engane”, grows. NATURE/ENVIRONMENT Gorges and garrigues, peaks and lakes, canyons, volcanoes under the sun… L’Hérault,

kaleidoscopeDedicated to the sun, the great Hérault amphitheatre opens out to the southeast into the Golfe du Lion. The department is one of those with of abundance the highest amount of sunshine throughout the year in France and rises in tiers from the southern tip of the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut- Languedoc, with the Mont du Caroux (1098 metres) and Mont de l’Espinouse (1124 metres) and to the east the Larzac plateau (726 metres), the Montagne de la Séranne and the foothills of the Cevennes right down to the lowlands covered with 12 salt lakes and pools along the coastline. The Cesse, Héric, Jaur, Orb, Vis, Hérault – torrents, rivers and streams have devoured the limestone plateaux and the cliffs of the gorges, cirques, caves and dizzying canyons, before crossing the plain to the coast. In its ravined, red clay earthed décor, the Salagou lake is one of the most surprising sites in the Hérault, reed- and poplar-strewn banks frequented by hardy cyclists on their mountain bikes. Between Ganges and Minerve the perfumed garrigue, emblematic of the Midi, does battle with the vineyards over supremacy of this land. Sprinkled with white limestone, it consists of a very particular type of vegetation, Californian live oak, almond trees, figs, wild olives etc. There are aromatic herbs such as thyme, rosemary, savory and asp and flowers such as cistus and orchids and it is the elected countryside of crickets, cicadas, lizards, ants, grass snakes and small mammals such as weasels, ferrets, genets and badgers. Falcons, kestrels and Bonelli eagles soar in their mastery of these hot lands. All these natural treasures are as much an invitation to set off, carrying a back-pack and wearing a good pair of shoes, for hikes, climbs, walks or picnics in the great outdoors each time that the sun appears – and how often that is! (see page 24 “hikes and sporting activities” ).

Cirque de Navacelles Ravin des Arcs

Pic Saint-Loup Preserved natural sites inland

L’ Estagnol: sheltered from the winds, this The Pic Saint-Loup and the Hortus freshwater lake is a reserve for game birds mountain: to the north of Montpellier the of the water, ducks, teal etc. Pic (658 metres) has been a kind of Mecca 13 since the beginning of time and offers a The Massif de la Gardiole: offers a wealth wonderful viewpoint from the sea to the of botanical and geological subjects, and Cevennes. Overall, the site is a collection a wonderful viewpoint from the summit of numerous prehistoric remains, grottos, over the lakes, vineyards and hinterlands. huts, dolmen etc.

The Gorges d’Héric: an impressive The Ravin des Arcs: after a walk in the gar- ravine that separates the Caroux massif rigue, this wild, natural arch-shaped from Espinouse with a difference in ravine, formed by the Lamalou, offers a height of 800 metres over 8 kilometres. circuit of discovery of vegetation and rocks A footpath follows the bottom of the eroded into the shape of “giant pans”. canyon up to the cirque de Farrière and to the gouffre du Cerisier. Roque-Haute : at the heart of the “blac- klands” between Vias and Portiragnes, the The Natural Bridges at Minerve: the basalt cliff of volcanic origin is covered Cesse has dug a canyon, gorges and natu- with exceptional vegetation in the crevi- ral bridges into the limestone plateaux ces and pools of the old, black stone quar- here. In summer you can follow the ries. course of the river and go under the impressive archway. And also: The Gorges de la Vis, the huge Cirque de Navacelles, the Cirque and The Etang de : at the foot of the hamlet of Gourgas, the Saint-Jean de Oppidum of Ensérune, this old marshland Dieuvaille canyons, the Mediterranean was drained in 1270 by the digging of dit- garden at , the Jardin des Plan- ches “in the sun” and completed by an tes at Montpellier. irrigation network.

The Cirque de Mourèze: chaos of rocks in the form of ruins, dominated by the Lieusson mountain (526 metres), formed by the erosion of dolomites and dolomitic limestone. NATURE/ENVIRONMENT Nature has priority The most important preservation of coastline on the French Mediterran dozens of 14 species protected ean coast 15 I et is while you are taking a the cleanliness and management of rubbish disposal, walk, outside the height of summer, along the beach from information for the public, etc. Agde to Sète or near Carnon that you can really measure the quality of a preserved coastline: no construction, European Blue Flag 2002: natural surroundings and clumps of beach grass to The communes of : The ports of: stabilise the dunes, with the sea on one side and the lakes Frontignan, Maugio, Frontignan, Palavas –les on the other. Here, the birds are kings of the waves and Carnon, Sète, La Grande Flots, Carnon, La Grande Motte, Valras-Plage, Motte, Le Cap d’Agde. if you want to stop and look for an instant there will be, Vendres, Portiragnes, somewhere nearby, a piece of driftwood, white with salt, Villeneuve les Maguelone. that has maybe crossed the ocean to give you a seat. A landscape of the world when it began – a rare thing! Amongst the Hérault resorts, some of the old ones have If you carry on walking a bit further, or you follow our been able to keep the charm of the old-fashioned holiday: Hérault friends, lovers of the sea, you will discover the Valras, Marseillan, Sète, Palavas, Carnon…all developed pine forests that border the beaches at Aresquiers, a around an old fishing village or hamlet. The coastal listed site. The tamarisks and the olive trees will lend beauties of Cap d’Agde and Grande Motte, architect- you their shade behind the dunes and you’ll find just designed to pay homage to the Mediterranean, offer a wide the spot for eel fishing in the lakes… selection of leisure and sporting activities with animations The greatest part of these fragile, highly prized zones all in a surrounding closely associated with the sun and practically all belongs to the Conservatoire du Littoral sea and all their pleasures. Behind, all these resorts open (coastline conservatory) and lakeside areas. The quality directly onto the countryside, lakes , streams and of the beaches is particularly carefully surveyed. The vineyards. This is one of the characteristics of the Hérault European Blue Flag flies over 13 of our communes and coast. In a few minutes you can go from lazing on the ports on the Hérault coast. They were listed in 2002 beach to a nature ramble: biking and walking, fishing or according to very strict criteria concerning urbanism, photo safari on the lakes, horse-riding… natural areas, the quality of drainage and the bathing water, NATURE/ENVIRONMENT Protected natural sites along the coastline

Originally the Bagnas lake was part of the vast Hérault delta. Filled by alluvial deposits and freshened by the water from the Canal du Midi, the lowland areas are covered by a vegetation of fine, transparent reeds that are highly valued by the birds.

Les Aresquiers and the lakes: between Frontignan and Maguelone, the Ingril and Vic lakes offer lands- capes of varied vegetation and the vast Bois de la Fontaine pinewood forest, behind the beautiful 16 Aresquiers beach. To visit the protected Bouzigues : Fishing village huddled around a church and a 14 and 15C chateau on the edge sites there are tours of the Etang de Thau, with its oyster parks organised by the and fish farms. Maisons de la Nature (nature centres), and activities and way marked trails. Maguelone: an old volcanic islet once inha- Mèze: small town on the north bank of the Etang de Bibliography bited by the Phoenicians, Greeks and Visi- Thau, whose port was built in the 6C B.C. by the "La nature méditerranéenne goths, it is now attached to the mainland and Phoenicians. The Centre of Research and en France "(nature in the French covered in pines, nettle trees and cypresses. Experimentation of the lagoons works on exploiting the Mediterranean) The Maguelone cathedral is situated in the biomass for fish farming and energy purposes. The farm by the Euzière ecologists. middle of the vineyards and lakes. is specialised in breeding ornamental tropical fish and Bibliothèque Naturaliste, Editions may be visited. Delachaux et Niestlé. L’Etang de l’Or: between Carnon and La Grande Motte, Maison départementale its 3,000 hectares of salt and fresh water form the big- de l’environnement gest vivarium in Europe for eel fishing and a reserve (departmental centre for for migrant fish such as bass and bream. This is the environment) a fine natural area with a highly varied flora and Domaine départemental fauna. de Restinclières 34730 Prades-le-Lez And also, Fort Brescou, volcanic islet, Tél. +00 33 (0)4 99 62 09 40 surmounted by a fort, opposite Cap d’Agde, and Fax : +00 33 (0)4 67 59 52 10 La Grande Motte, a resort recently built in the e.mail : [email protected] original pyramidal architectural style. ORIGINS A glimpse of the history At the crossroads of all our paths In its soul, the Hérault is profoundly Greek, poet and player, philosopher and lover of life. This crossroads was marked by the passage of men from all points south and north, to whom it gave a certain inspiration, impregnating their spirit and so that they were all – Romans, Cathars, builders of monasteries and other conquerors of modern times – a little bit Greek, as it is itself. There is a sense of continuity from its beginnings to present time. Its way of maintaining ancient traces while writing new chapters preser- ves the essential… A trip back in time from 17 Mèze to Montpellier History starts just outside Mèze with the traces of dinosaurs that our ancestors were unlikely to meet, since they became extinct 65 million years ago. From 160,000 years BC, our prehistoric ancestors lived in caves at Pic Saint- Loup, in the Cesse gorges, near St.Martin-de-Londres and in the present Haut-Languedoc Natural Park, building huts and sanctuaries and digging sepulchres. To see: Grotte de la “Coquille”, (the “Shell” Cave), the oval tombs at Cazarils, the Draille dolmen, the Poniens’ engraved megaliths and the recons- titution of a Bronze Age habitat at Cambous. What is now Agde used to be called Agathé Tiche and was founded by the Phoceans over 2,500 years ago. It has kept evidence of its Greek past hidden in the riverbed of the Hérault river. “Ephèbe”, a 4C BC bronze statue was discove- red there in 1964 and today is housed in the Musée d’Archéologie sous-marine (museum of underwater archaeology) at the Cap d’Agde, where you can also see the antique boat, amphora, mediaeval wrecks, and soon, two bronze, 1C AD statues, recently uncovered at Agde, which will be added to their collection.. The Oppidum of Ensérune, occupied by the Etruscans, the Iberians and the Romans from 6C BC to 1C AD, is a hilltop with a wealth of remains and an exceptional museum and display area in the middle of a cool, pine wood that dominates the Etang de Montady. Ambrus- sum is only a short distance away on the that joined Rome and Cadiz. At Lou- pian visit the remains of a 5C Gallo-Roman villa, decorated with magnificent mosaics. Along with Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert* with its lovely Roman village, tucked away in the wilderness of the garrigue, you will have delved into the Carlovingian era. *classified a World Heritage site by Unesco. To see: The abbey founded in 802 by Guilhem, cousin of Charlemagne. Boussagues: old mediaeval town with its square-towered Roman church. Minerve la Cathare: in 1210, 140 “perfects” sacrificed themselves by burning after the siege of Simon de Montfort. To see: The tiny, steep streets, the well and Church of Saint Etienne, consecrated in 456. ORIGINS Museums to satisfy the appetite for Pézenas, “the Versailles” of Languedoc, prospered in the 16 and17C, welcomed Molière and his knowledge: group between 1650 and 1658. To see: the magnificent private, Lacoste mansion, the very old Maison Consulaire (consular ● Béziers: Musée lapidaire de house) and the barber Gély’s house, where Molière lived. la Cathédrale St. Nazaire, (lapidary museum), Musée du Biterrois (museum of Béziers), Musée des Beaux Arts (fine Montpellier, capital of Bas-Languedoc under the reign of Louis XIV after the battles arts museum), l’Espace Pierre-Paul Riquet with the Camisards (1702-1704). (the Pierre Paul Riquet centre). To see: the Peyrou promenade with the equestrian statue of Louis XVI turning his ● Bouzigues: Musée de la Pêche et back on the Cevennes, old Montpellier’s Esplanade and private mansions. Also, Conchyliculture (fishing and shellfish follow in the footsteps of Rabelais, medical student in 1535. breeding museum)

● Cap d’Agde, Musée de l’Ephèbe at the Béziers capital of Languedoc wine growing (Roman colony in 35 BC and Mas de la Clape (archeological museum) stronghold of Cathar resistance in 1209), is reborn with the fortune of the ● winegrowers in 19C. Lattes: Musée Etrusque et grec (Etruscian and Greek museum) To see: the Plateau des Poètes and the Paul-Riquet avenue. 2 km away on the Canal du Midi are the Fonséranes Locks. ● Lodève: Musée Fleury (Fleury museum)

● : Musée de la Villa Romaine For lovers of contemporary architecture, meet up at Montpellier to admire (the Roman villa museum) the Hôtel de Région on the banks of the Lez, the neo-classic Antigone quarter by Ricardo Bofill or La Grande Motte created by Jean Balladur in 1966. ● Mèze: Musée Parc de la Plaine des Dinosaures (dinosaur museum)

● Minerve: Musée de la préhistoire et du catharisme (prehistory and museum) The power of the Roman influence… has marked the Hérault profoundly. All around, you will find tiny chapels hidden in ● Montpellier: Musée Fabre (Fabre museum), 18 the vineyards, villages huddles around their churches, like Saint-Jean-de-Buèges, Musée du Vieux Montpellier (old Montpellier and huge 10 and11C edifices such as the cathedral at Maguelone, St. Etienne at museum). Atger museum, Musée Languedocien, Agde, the Saint Pons abbey, the cloister of the St. Michel de Grandmont Priory, the (Languedoc museum), Agropolis Museum… abbey at Fontcaude, etc. ● Pézenas: Musée Vulliod-St-Germain (Vulliod-St-Germain museum)

● Sète: MIAM or Musée International des Arts Modes- tes (international museum of simple arts), Musée Paul Valéry (Paul Valéry museum), Espace Geor- ges Brassens (the Georges Brassens centre), le Centre Régional d’Art Contemporain (the regional centre of contemporary art).

● St Pons de Thomières: Musée de préhistoire (museum of prehistory)

And also: the bell foundry at Hérépian, the annexe of the Manufacture des Gobelins (Gobelins tapestry workshop) at Lodève, the Huilerie (olive oil factory) at Clermont l’Hérault.

Historical towns and villages, monuments and works of art listed as protected sites: Béziers, Castries, Pézenas, Minerve, Laroque, , Pegairolles de l’Esca- lette, Roquebrun, Saint-Guilhem-le- Désert, Saint-Jean-de-Buèges, the Notre Dame du Peyrou church, the Canal du Midi and the Cana- let, the Pétrarque place at Montpellier. ORIGINS The Jousts S ince 1666, when the port was created, the people of Sète celebrated Saint Louis by organising a festival of nautical jousting. These games peak on August 25th, beating in time to the summer. The jousters are armed with a lance and installed on the “tintaine”, a kind of platform, in blue or red, reaching out beyond the side of the boat at more than three metres above the water.The fight consists of unbalancing the adversary so that he falls into the water as soon as the drums and oboes ring the signal to charge. Excitement guaranteed. Jousting also takes place at Agde, Balaruc, Béziers, Frontignan, Mèze and Palavas.

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The Tambourines A of Balaruc goatskin stretched over a wooden ring or the equivalent is in fact done by a machine built by the students of the town in plastic, along with a strong fist – this bears no resemblance to and installed on the club premises. Throughout the region, the musical instrument except that it makes a noise. Two teams teams play this game, a variation on real- or royal-tennis, to a of five players will often send the ball backwards and forwards very high standard. 80% of the teams come from the Hérault, with their tambourines in the middle of town or down on the but this ball game using tambourines is also played in Italy, sea front. This spectacle can be followed at Notre Dame de , Switzerland, , Hungary, Scotland - and the Londres, Balaruc and in numerous other Hérault villages where French ladies’ team are also the champions of Europe! the gatherings take place outside or in a large hall. The manu- facture of the tambourines at Balaruc that the Frenchplayers use ORIGINS All for the love of the bull The bull herds of 20 Lunel

I n “bouvino” country, the “biou” (the Camargue bull) is king and the comings and goings of the herds to and from the arenas, accompanied by the herdsmen on horseback, are popular festivities animated by the “bandas” (festive musical bands of the south): abrivado, encierro, bandido (the arrival, release and running of the bulls). The bull is not harmed here. The Camargue competition is a game that consists of a “raseteur” dressed all in white, whose aim is to collect all the cocardes, or rings, strings and tassels placed between the horns of the bull. From March to November the arenas are alive with music, shouting, applause and catcalls. An afternoon here will convince you that the public is connoisseur! The term “manade” designates not only the herd of bulls but also the owners and their pasturelands. Breeding of camargue bulls and horses in semi-liberty is as much an ancient tradition as the competitions are. The “manadiers”, (proprietors) happily take visitors horse riding and welcome them to a “ferrade”(branding of the young bulls, followed by an al fresco meal). Around Lunel, there are manades at St.Nazaire de Pezan, Marseillargues, , … LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT On this Southern Territory

Life is vibrant, strong and full of harmony in this land. Here, the people have a discerning way of being at one with nature and with themselves and full of sunshine. Throughout the year in the Hérault, they fill their days with pleasure…

T he joys are endless: picking wild leeks amongst the tambourine. Whether fishermen or high-tech vines, along with wild almonds and figs, a fervent fishing engineers, students or breeders of bulls, session, followed by the art of the siesta and “petanque” (a winegrowers or dancers, the folk here have in form of boules) without excess, chatting the evening away in their blood a colourful Mediterranean 21 the cool of a terrace, tasting wine, strolling through the heritage, the desire to live life to the squares - these and others such as battling with the waves, full both in mind and in body. the wind, the bulls, with a lance over the water or a LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT

The HéraultCulture language – the taste of sunshine on the tongue

Listen well to the accent and the music, or, more precisely, the accents and music from Béziers to Sète, from the Minervois to the Camargue, the accents have their own lands! The Hérault offers a multitude of pleasing nuances, under the influence of the Oc language and the strong Roman roots. The images are strong and you will always find a “blagaire” (chatterbox) and maybe even a “rouspetaire” (grumbler) if you are sharing the excitement of a game of loto, where half the village is gathered in a hall to play for the benefit of the rugby, football or local tambourine club. And of Brief glossary: course, there on the bench, under the plane tree, “Chichoumeille” or “ratatouille in the square, anywhere, there are always the du Languedoc” : typical dish 22 “amics” (friendly souls) to point you in the right direction. No one is ever based on tomatoes, aubergines, “perdut” (lost) for long here! courgettes, garlic. Certain words have crossed over To be “escagassé: tired the Oc barrier to put a bit of “Mescladis”: mixed sunshine into the mainstream “Se coufiner”: stay at home language, to the point where a “S’estrasser, s’esclaffer”: gentle “poutou” (kiss) is break out into peals of laughter placed on each cheek of those “S’espanter”: to be surprised about to go, always bit too “J’ai pris une bugne”: to be hit soon… “Viens que je te quiche”: come and let me give you a squeeze.

Chronicle of a meeting: A few kilo- metres beyond Roquebrun, we watched the eve- ning fall on the mountain. He arrived out of nowhere, in a white car that was more rust than white. He came straight towards us, face drawn and sober, an apple in his hand. He had cut it into pieces with a knife that had seen as much work as he had. He gave us each a piece. As he ate his, he said “There aren’t any like that in town nowadays, eh!” The message was received. We left with a boxful of apples that filled the car with their perfume. He stayed there, hands thrust deep into his poc- kets, as if planted in his landscape. LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT Life by the sea…. 300 days* a year! *annual period of sunshine

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B y nature, the Hérault people have an extraordinary interaction with the sea and its surroundings: the beach and the waves are the playground of their childhood and the ports and sea walls are the meeting points with their friends. The ritual of the Sunday family meal turns into a kind of playtime where, equipped with a picnic and ice-box, aperitif and parasol, they install themselves in an uninhabited spot that only they know, that overlooks the sea! Then there are the more privileged, who have their little chalet with the small boat on the edge of the “roubine” (channel), a little paradise that they generously share with friends for a fishing session or simply lounging around. All year round, the beach plays an essential part in the life of people of all ages. Thus, the Hérault people have already planned and organised every sport and leisure that you could imagine for everyone: deep-sea fishing and underwater diving, clubs for children, volleyball, surfboarding, sliding and gliding sports, pleasure-boating and water-sports games, paragliding and Kite surfing, whose female world champion, feet on a board and a kite attached to the arms, is from the Hérault! The coastal resorts also offer a host of land-based activities including tennis, golf, keep-fit, boules, and jogging, animations, casinos – and very good facilities for the handicapped. LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT Sporting activities just around the corner! Y ou only need to run through the list of all the safari in one of the most outstanding underground activities that can be practised here to understand networks in the whole of France. Take off with your that the Hérault is a land full of reliefs with an hang-glider in this record-breaker’s paradise, where abundance of natural and exceptional sites. Within the air and its currents, the climate and its favours the same few hours you can have gone underwater are the guardian angels of the birdmen. For fishing, taken a mountain bike ride and discovered something gentler, go for the canoeing, or try a nature reserve, having at the same time walked hiking with pack-llamas, bathing in fresh pools, through Roman remains that have been left to visiting the caves developed for visitors, such as sleep in the garrigue, in the sun. To cool the Labeil, Demoiselles, or Clamouse. If you are a lover sun’s ardour, there are the freshwater canyons, of space and wide horizons, try a mountain bike the heights and the cool of the caves to be ride through the red terrain around Salagou lake or explored, either as part of an adventure go on horseback through the Petite Camargue - or outing or as part of a ramble… For lovers why not try a photo safari through the “étangs”. of excitement, try rock-climbing on the The soft options are available here too, with a few Caroux cliff faces, or the cliffs of hours of river- or lake-side fishing and a bike ride Navacelles or la Séranne, for instance. along the banks of the Canal du Midi or the Wine Or you could try an underground Route. 24 LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT

The Atlantic and Mediterranean mountains that climb to over 1000 metres above the Hérault plain, resemble the bows of an ancient ship that was washed ashore here overlooking the sea, during another age. The Natural Park is made up of a subtle nuance of reliefs and climates that allows rare flora and fauna to be preserved. Certain species such as Bonelli’s eagle, otters, mouflons, genets and numerous bats, crayfish, the Montpellier grass snake and plants such as golden garlic, orchids Projects in the Hérault that and drosera are protected here. Rambles and involve tourist and leisure bike rides here are an outstanding equipment are strongly focus- opportunity for observing nature. sed on discovery and preser- vation of nature. For more infor- mation on the more than 30 pro- tected species, the natural reserves 25 and the Haut-Languedoc regional natural park, consult pages 10-16 of our dossier.

A small list of trails to help you stretch your legs and give you a change of air.

500 km of Reseau Vert® (“Green Trails”) from Haut-Languedoc Haut-Languedoc to Montpellier.

“L’Hérault à Pied”®, (the Hérault on foot ), a topo- graphical guide – 40 circuits.

Numerous local topographical guides available from the tourist information points. Regional

“Nature Vive”, (Living Nature), a guide to nature activities with all you need to know about nauti- cal, outdoors and airborne activities. Available by phoning + 00 33 (0)4 67 67 71 71 Natural Park LIFE IN THE HÉRAULT The picture

Lodève,tradition the workshops at the Musée Fleury in Pézenas, and the artists and craftsmen at St-Jean de Fos and Sète…

T he only thing to blame is the Hérault light – for having lit up so many faces and inspired so many painters, individual artists and inspired craftsmen who arrived from all over. From Courbet to Soulages and from the Di Rosa brothers to the young, still unknown sculptor, they all came alive to the sky blue, the white and black rocks and the silver lakes underlining the darker line of the sea – and especially to this astounding light that draws the regard away to the horizon over a landscape detailed in all its dimensions. It is not surprising that painting is celebrated here in the museums, workshops and villages. For your encounters with artists from the Hérault and elsewhere, don’t miss the great exhibitions of the Lodève museum. Throughout the whole year and peaking at the height of summer, you are invited by the Hérault to the “ Mirondela dels Arts” with the Pézenas artists 26 and craftsmen, painters and sculptors from Sète, the Art galleries of Montpellier, right down to the smallest of workshops which are tucked away in the tiniest of villages. In the near future the “Site des Métiers d’Art” will be opening in Agde, welcoming young artists.

H ere, in this land with its wild silhouette and ancient memory, it is inevitable that the water springs also have their powers. Here is an Let’s all go ultramodern balneotherapy establishment, working in association with a well-known dermo-cosmetic laboratory, treating skin diseases and giving beauty treatments. Its location? Next to Avène, the round village which describes the Mediaeval Languedoc story so well. The magnificence of the natural surroundings only to the baths… contributes to the beneficial effects. At Lamalou-les-Bains, Balneotherapy the spa is specialised in rheumatology and neurology. Its healthy climate adds to the charm of this establishment, which belongs to the Chaine Thermale du Soleil. For those who cannot do without the sea, Balaruc-les- health and Bains overlooks the Etang de Thau and treats rheumatism in particular – the Romans had already discovered the benefits of mud baths beauty spas using mud “harvested” from the middle of this vast salt lake. FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS Carnivals, ceremonies and galas Bring on the music! Sing and dance all year round to the sound of the festive bands of the South, the choirs, brass bands and orchestras.

Carnivals, ceremonies, ceremonial rites – fed by tradition, the origins of the festivals of the seasons and soil are lost in the mists of pagan times but are still high points, sustained by local, highly colourful rumours. During the “Temporada de Lunel” and elsewhere, from March to November, the Hérault aficionados renew the traditions, doubtless Cretan, (see page 20 – Origins), of the bullfighting season. The “Etats Généraux” of ceremonial animals is a procession of beasts made of cloth and animated by men, for instance, “le Boeuf de Mèze”, (the Mèze steer), “le Loup de Loupian”, (the Loupian wolf), “le Chèvre Montagnac”, (the Montagnac goat) and “le Chameau de Béziers”, (the Béziers camel) which are all protectors of their community, and date back from between ancient times and the Middle Ages. These festivals take place in Bas-Languedoc over 3 days in May. As for the Pétetas, rag and straw dolls, they will draw you into the streets of Murviel-lès-Béziers between July 14 and August 15. The Béziers Féria is an invitation to move to the rhythm of 4 days and 4 nights of non-stop festivities. Discover, too, the Festival des Sourciers (the festival of the water diviners) in the Monts de l’Orb in the autumn, around which time the “Fête du Pressurage”, the picking of the final grapes, takes place in La Caunette en Miner- 27 vois. (see pages 6/7 – Hérault today).

Spring, grape har- vests, local saints, the bull, sun and sea, mimosa and carnival time – all this is a cause to dance, sing, drink, play and parade. Celebrating in the Hérault is second nature. FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS Village festivities

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More “Catholic” but neverthe- less devilish, the fête days of the local Saints are a cause to celebrate with games, gatherings and a variety of animations such as the Grand Pardon of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Louis at Sète, and there is also the pretty Mimosa Festival at Roquebrun and the oyster festival at Bouzigues. There are also fairs, markets, sampling of local produce that are just as much cause for joy and celebration and partaking of the warmth of the village atmosphere: the pork festival at Saint-Pons de Thomières, chestnut and wine festivals, the cherry festival at Mons la Trivalle and more… FESTIVALS AND CELEBRATIONS Under the sign of the Arts

A 29 t Pézenas, during the “Mirondela dels Arts”, the artists and craftsmen install themselves in the old workshops of the old town and invite the visitor to participate in many folkloric displays, theatres and concerts. At Montpellier in May, “Saperlipopette, voilà enfantillage”, is a show for the children, at the Château d’O. Lamalou-les-Bains maintains its health with a Festival of Operettas and Lodève takes up the traditions of the troubadours with a Festival of Poetry taking place throughout the town for nine days. Over 60 poets come from various countries to play, sing, dance, speak and tell stories. There is a wonderful exhibition dedicated to “Art in Vienna around Klimt, Kokoschla, Schiele…” that takes place from June to October 2002. July in Béziers brings the Festa d’Oc, a festival of music, shows, animations, sampling local produce and the Festivities of August 15, along with the horse festival. July also brings the Festival of Jazz to Mèze, which moves on to Sète in August…

Not to be missed: le Printemps des Comédiens (festival of theatre), the Montpellier International Dance Festival, the Radio France Festival (operas, concerts, recitals etc.) and the Festival of Mediterranean cinema are all among the largest events in Europe…

Information: to obtain the calendar of annual festivities, ask for the “Fêtes et Manifestations” (festivals and events) guide at the Comité Départemental du Tourisme de l’Hérault. Tel: + 00 33 (0)4 67 67 71 71. FOOD AND WINE The pleasures of good food are for L sharing! anguedoc and Mediterranean cooks meet bass grilled with fennel, stuffed squid and mussels, fish here to share their taste for good food. Both tra- stews and soups, garlic mayonnaise, melon with Mus- ditional and the more modern dishes require as cat, fresh roasted figs with Noilly Prat. With all this and their first ingredient the very freshest of products a touch of imagination, your table becomes like one of from both land and sea: fish and shellfish, meat, those at the Pourcel brothers’ Jardin du Sens restaurant vegetables and fruit ripened in the full suns- at Montpelier. Even if they are on the way to conquering hine of the South, aromatic herbs from the the Empire of the Rising Sun, via Tokyo, they have still garrigue. All this is then given the creative stayed faithful to the Hérault skies. There will always be genius of the great chef, or treated with the warmth of the Table d’Hôte not yet discovered by the the greatest respect for family traditions, guides, where you will taste the best “aïgo boulido” (gar- to charm the palate. Lamb with juniper lic soup), sardines with an escabèche sauce, cuttlefish berries with a sweet onion chutney, Sète-style and macaronade aux brageoles, Pélardon, pas- angler fish tail with anchovies and tries - and the whole will be accompanied by a little a sea-urchin roe butter, garden Côteau du Languedoc from a spot worthy of an AOC! 30 vegetable ratatouille with lake- For good restaurants: don’t hesitate to consult the main gourmet guides and we also advise you to ask for the Guide des Restaurateurs de France Languedoc/Roussillon, Parc Euromédecine, 348 rue Puech Villa, BP 7209, 34183 Montpellier Cedex. Tel. + 00 33 (0)4 67 04 15 35

Tables d’Hôtes, numerous and good quality. For information tel.+ 00 33 (0)4 67 20 88 46

The Hérault farmers welcome you with their guide “Bienvenue à la Ferme” (welcome to the farm) available at + 00 33 (0)4 67 20 88 57 or + 00 33 (0)4 67 20 88 00

Don’t miss the highlights of summer cooking: fla- vours, of Languedoc, workshops, conferences on the theme of Mediterranean cooking. Information: Musée Agropolis: tel. + 00 33 (0)4 67 04 75 00

Gourmet trips Information at the Tourist Office at Bédarieux, Pays d’Orb: tel.+ 00 33 (0)4 67 95 08 79 Sample the creativity of the Hérault chefs, gathered under the appellation of “Toqués du Goût”. Information Montagne Hérault: + 00 33 (0)4 67 20 88 46 Gourmet trails around Bédarieux: Recipe for “Bourride Sétoise” The upper Orb valley, at the southern end of the Parc (Sète-style fish stew) Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc, has a very rich landscape full of rocky escarpments and hemmed in For 6 people: 1.5 kg Mediterranean angler fish tail, valleys, an abundance of flora and fauna, California live a stick of celery, a piece of chard greens, two car- oak forests and arbousiers. In order to discover these local rots, a leek, 3 eggs, _ litre oil, a glass white wine, joys of the countryside, guides, restaurateurs and farmers the angler livers and a glass cognac (optional). have invented “Balades Gourmandes” (gourmet trails), an unusual programme that combines discoveries of nature with Slice the angler into steaks (three per person), culinary delights. Everyone gathers at 9.30a.m. for coffee then make an aioli with the eggs, oil and chopped a ramble within everyone’s ability, accompanied by a garlic. Coarsely chop the vegetables and sauté in professional guide. At 1p.m. everyone returns to the restaurant a little oil. Add the slices of fish, pour over the for the gourmet lunch in order to taste traditional recipes and white wine and a glass of water. Leave to simmer local produce. until the fish is completely cooked. Meanwhile make croutons of fairly thin slices of bread. Place them in the middle of the plates, pouring a drop of cognac over after having spread them with the livers sautéed in butter. Place the slices of fish on top. Thicken the cooking juices with the aioli without overheating which will cause the sauce to separate. Accompany with steamed potatoes and cover with the sauce.

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Don’t leave without having tasted: the little, sweet- savoury “petit pâté” of Pézenas, a Pélardon (goat cheese) and Pérail (sheep cheese), Lucques olives, the bourride (fish stew) and tielle (octopus pie) from Sète, garlic soup, Bouzigues oysters, the different honeys and muscats of Frontignan, Lunel, Mireval and Saint-Jean de Minervois… Department of the Hérault

City km Amsterdam 1200 Barcelona 338 Bern 600 Brussels 1000 Copenhagen 1764 Frankfurt 900 Geneva 419 London 1179 Lyon 300 Milan 650 760 Strasbourg 800 Toulouse 240

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de l'Hérault Maison du Tourisme, Av. des Moulins, 34184 Montpellier Cédex 4 Tel. +00 33 (0)4 67 67 71 71 Fax +00 33 (0)4 67 67 71 77 http://www.herault-en-languedoc.com e-mail : [email protected] For reservations: Service Loisirs Accueil Tél. +00 33 (0)4 67 67 71 40 Fax : +00 33 (0)4 67 67 71 34 e-mail : [email protected]

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