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Historic churches in uncover the stories of the past visitchurches.org.uk/daysout 4

bringing the past alive Explore the historic churches of Devon, Dorset and Cornwall and discover a window to the past – one that brings alive intriguing stories and surprising connections.

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Gravestones tell touching tales of love and devotion – or sometimes piracy and murder. Handsome memorials mark fortunes made and lives lost. Rustic hat pegs are a reminder of those who worked the land. You’ll find these churches at the end of wooded lanes, perched on cliff tops or in pretty valleys. Each one is special. All the churches in this leaflet have been saved by The Churches Conservation Trust. The Trust is a charity the patina that cares for more than 340 churches in . This is one of 18 leaflets that highlight their history and treasures. of time For more information on the other guides in this series, as well as interactive maps and downloadable information, immerse yourself in serenely beautiful see visitchurches.org.uk St Petrock, Portland, St George 2 Dorset A church inspired by St Paul’s Cathedral , St Martin 1 on a dramatic peninsula Devon A thousand-year-old church in the middle of the city • Georgian church untouched by time • Located on a peak on the picturesque South Coast • Dates from before the Norman Conquest • Beautiful carved marble monuments dedicated to rich Vast and solitary, St George’s is one of the most magnificent and worthy parishioners 18th-century churches in Dorset. It rises from the rocky peninsula of Portland, the masterwork of a local mason St Martin’s props up a Medieval building on a corner of Exeter’s named Thomas Gilbert who supplied the Portland stone historic Cathedral Close. It is one of the oldest churches in used to build St Paul’s Cathedral. The interior is fabulously the city, consecrated a year before the Norman Conquest, preserved with its lectern, pulpit, box pews and galleries all and was once one of six churches clustered in the cathedral’s surviving. It is a ‘preacher’s church’ with all the seating facing shadow. Its tiny – smaller than the size of a football pitch the twin pulpits – one for reading ‘the Word’ (scripture), – served the workers and traders who crowded into the the other for lengthy sermons. three- and four-storey houses in the surrounding streets. The sprawling churchyard is a treasure trove of fabulous The church’s roughcast exterior of red volcanic stone – headstones and memorials that tell tales of murder, piracy with bright, white Beer stone windows – gives it the air of and adventure in a gloriously atmospheric setting. There are a fancy gingerbread cake. Inside, it is simple and full of light. inscriptions to Mary Way and William Lano, who were shot Look out for the communion rails with their closely set and killed in 1803 by a press gang, and Joseph Trevitt, an balusters designed, according to a 17th-century order from assistant warder at Portland Prison who was murdered the Archbishop of Canterbury, to keep parishioners’ dogs by a convict in 1869. from reaching the altar. Reforne, Wide Street, Portland DT5 2JP Cathedral Close, Exeter EX1 1EZ Easton, Exeter City Centre Nearest railway station: Weymouth (4.5 miles) Nearest railway station: Exeter Central (5 min walk) Open daily Open Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm and Sat, 10am-5pm 7

3 St Anthony-in- Roseland, St Anthony Cornwall Medieval church next to a turreted ancestral home Three centuries of monuments, dedicated to the local Spry family, grace this Medieval church on the picturesque Roseland peninsula. In summer, the churchyard is full of flowers, growing wildly over pretty headstones. The church owes its survival to a Victorian reverend, who rebuilt the chancel and the roofs and installed Minton floor tiles and stained glass.

St Anthony-in-Roseland, Portscatho, Truro TR2 3EZ 20m SW of St Austell off A3078, opposite St Mawes and 4m S of Gerrans Nearest railway station: Falmouth (2.7 miles) Open daily

4 Parracombe, St Petrock Devon Legendary hilltop church with a perfect interior Set in glorious countryside on the edge of Exmoor this hilltop church dates from Norman times, but it is the lovely Georgian interior with painted texts and wonderful furnishings that make it very special. St Petrock’s is believed to be the last church in Devon to use musicians to accompany the hymns – there is a hole in one of the pews for the bow of a bass viol. It was saved from demolition in 1879 by the poet and artist John Ruskin. timeless Church Lane, Parracombe, EX31 4RJ 11m NE of Barnstaple off A39 and 4m SW of treasures Nearest railway station: Barnstaple (10.5 miles) marvel at Medieval wall paintings that Open daily to this day have the power to inspire 5 7 Torbryan, Tarrant Crawford, Holy Trinity St Mary the Virgin Devon Dorset Mighty Medieval church Fabulous painted tales deep in the countryside in a rural church The magnificent church of Holy Trinity seems very grand This church, which dates back to 12th century, is all that is left of for its quiet rural setting, with a superb soaring tower. It is a wealthy Cistercian nunnery – Tarrant Abbey. Today, the long, a perfect example of the Gothic Perpendicular style, with elegant interior has oak furnishings and a beautiful 16th-century a stunning Medieval interior and beautifully carved screen wagon roof. Best of all, however, are the ghostly 14th-century that spans the width of the church with its graceful arches. paintings, made to instruct and inspire. There are depictions of Below are painted panels of 40 saints – they were once Margaret of Antioch, a saint said to have been swallowed by a whitewashed, perhaps to save them from the puritanical dragon, and three animated skeletons, who warn three princes zeal of the Reformation. of the emptiness of earthly rank and wealth.

Torbryan Hill, Torbryan, TQ12 5UR Tarrant Crawford, DT11 9HU 4m SW of Newton Abbot off A381 3m SE of Blandford off A350 Nearest railway station: (4 miles) Nearest railway station: Hamworthy (8 miles) Open daily Open daily visitchurches.org.uk/daysout

8 6 Whitcombe Satterleigh, Church St Peter Spend a day with us Spend a day Dorset Devon A saint, a mermaid A tiny rural gem and a lost dedication The church of St Peter lies deep in the country in the hills This lovely Medieval church looks like a vision from a Thomas above the river Mole. A creaking Medieval door opens into Hardy novel. One of Hardy’s friends – the poet and scholar a charming interior, with a panelled oak roof, carved pulpit, William Barnes – preached here and the church’s setting reading desk and beautiful painted texts. Above the pews, evokes the rustic atmosphere of old Dorset life. Yet in Barnes’ the 24 hat pegs are a reminder of the congregation’s size time the parishioners knew nothing of Whitcombe’s great – the church holds no more than 40. On a sunny day, delicate treasure – the Medieval wall paintings that include an image windows scatter light on the rough, limewashed walls. of St Christopher and a mermaid combing her hair.

Satterleigh, EX37 9DJ Whitcombe, Dorchester DT2 8NY 4m SW of off B3226 2m SE of Dorchester on A352 Nearest railway station: Portsmouth Arms (3 miles) Nearest railway station: Dorchester West (2 miles) Open daily Open daily More churches to enjoy Each CCT church has been saved because it is special. 9 We can’t do justice to them all in one leaflet, so visit our website Winterborne for more information on those only briefly described here. Tomson, St Andrew Devon Dorset , St Nonna 10 A Dorset gem A handsome Medieval church by a manor and gatehouse saved by the ghost in a picturesque, secluded setting. It was built in the 12th of century, with the impressive square tower added in the 15th. This tiny chapel, built of flint and stone, has barely been altered Bradstone, PL19 0QS since it was built in Norman times. The inside is simple, bright 4m SE of Launceston off B3362 and beautiful – with silvery grey, Georgian box pews. It is hard Open daily to believe that, less than 100 years ago, the church was home to the donkeys, dogs, pigs and hens of the neighbouring farm. , St James 11 The church escaped total ruin in 1931 only when The Society This lonely Medieval church with lovely Georgian additions for the Protection of Ancient Buildings sold a collection of sits on the crest of a hill above the wooded Tamar Valley. Thomas Hardy manuscripts to pay for the repairs. The pretty churchyard has a cluster of impressive slate headstones. Off Marsh Lane, Winterborne Tomson, Luffincott, , EX22 6RB Blandford Forum DT11 9HA 7m N of Launceston off A388 8m W of off A31 at the end of a private road Open daily Nearest railway station: Holton Heath (6 miles) Open daily , St Mary 12 A beautiful 15th-century, stone-spired landmark in a visitchurches.org.uk/joinus fold in the hills just below . Inside, the furnishings are mostly Victorian, as are the memorials that line the church walls. 5 North Huish, , TQ10 9NQ 8m SW of Totnes off B3210 Open daily

Princetown, St Michael & All Angels 13 This simple, slender-towered Dartmoor church was built Become a supporter between 1812-14 by prisoners captured in the Napoleonic Wars with France and the War of 1812 with the United States and held at Dartmoor gaol. Tavistock Road, Princetown, Yelverton PL20 6RE 4m E of Tavistock, off B3557 Open daily. If locked, keyholder nearby Revelstoke, St Peter the Poor Fisherman 14 Stockwood, St Edwold 19 A rugged remnant of a Medieval church on a cliff above One of England’s smallest churches, 15th-century Stoke Bay. The aisle and porch have carved wagon roofs. St Edwold’s is not much bigger than a single-decker bus. The rest of this atmospheric church is a picturesque ruin. It nestles in an idyllic wooded valley and is dedicated to Stoke Beach, Noss Mayo, PL8 1HE a 9th-century hermit. 11m SE of Plymouth off B3186;access on foot only from Stockwood, Evershot, Dorchester DT2 0NG Stoke Park visitors’ car park (steep descent to church); 7m S of off A37 alternative access via coastal path Open daily Open daily Winterborne Came, St Peter 20 Church 15 An atmospheric country squire’s church, dating from the The winding lane that leads to this Medieval church twists 14th and 15th centuries. It has monuments to local families through the countryside, adding to a feeling of discovery and memories of the celebrated Dorset rector-poet William when you arrive. The elegant interior is Georgian with an Barnes, who lies buried in the churchyard. exposed barrel-vaulted ceiling. Winterborne Came, Dorchester DT2 8NT West Ogwell, Newton Abbot TQ12 6EW 2m SE of Dorchester off A352 2m SW of Newton Abbot off A381 Open daily May to Sep; at other times keyholder nearby Open daily Dorset Bothenhampton, Holy Trinity Old Church 16 This Medieval parish church – consisting of a 13th-century chancel and a 15th-century tower – is beautifully located 3 within a walled churchyard. Inside, there is an elegant, early Georgian reredos with oak altar rails. Old Church Road, Bothenhampton, DT6 4BP 1m S of Bridport off B3157 Open daily

Nether Cerne, All Saints 17 A pastoral and picturesque riverside church by an old manor. Built primarily in the 13th century, All Saints has a stone tower topped with pinnacles and carved angel-gargoyles. Nether Cerne, Dorchester DT2 7AJ 5m N of Dorchester on A352 Open daily

Oborne, St Cuthbert Old Chancel 18 A tiny and enchanting survival from a much larger building of 1553, St Cuthbert’s is built in golden stone. Inside there are Medieval tiles and lovely 17th-century furnishings. London Road, Oborne, DT9 4JY 1m E of Sherborne on A30 Open daily A968

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A36 A350 A368 A225 61 A30 M2 A39 A3 A257 together with other nearby attractions and CCT A367 A339 M26

A368 A3 MEDWAY A251 A342 A34 A25 A33 M25 A366 A20 A252 churches in adjoining counties. A37 A25 A371 WILTSHIRE A256 A39 A345 A343 A2 A360 A287 A274 M20 A339 A28 A367 A217 A338 A21 A39 A229 A361 A25 A24 A22 M5 A303 A228

A287 Our website, visitchurches.org.uk, has much more A31 SURREY M23 A260 A258 A3123 A39 A36 A20

A399 4 A39 A39 A350 M3 KENT GlastonburyA361 A361 A343 A29 A39 A38 A281 detailed information to help you plan your trip. A A264 A33 A39 A272 359 A325 3 HAMPSHIRE A28 A A338 A262

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A A265 A3 A378 6 South A30 A303 A359 281 58 18 A39 A24 A275 Molton A23 EAST SUSSEX A28 A283 2 Portland, St George SY 686 720 E Yeovil A357 M27 A22 A386 A3124 A259 A388 A377 A38 A350 A285 A273 A3 A26 A271 M5 A303 A30 030 A354 A286 A283 3 St Anthony-in-Roseland, St Anthony SW 855 320 Blandford A326 M27 A3(M) A29 A37 A31 A27 A27 A337 A396 A27 A35 A27 A22 A27 2 A352 Bude 07 A373 A356 Forum 3 A350 A3072 A 19 A259 A3066 A32 A3072 A30 G 7 M275 4 Parracombe, St Petrock (cover image) SS 675 449 DEVON F A358 J A35 A388 A3079 17 A354I 9 A39 A31 5 Torbryan, Holy Trinity SX 820 669 A30 BridportDORSETA35 11 52 Dorchester A30 30 A35 1 A375 Exeter A 16 A35 Launceston A376 Lyme 8 6 Satterleigh, St Peter SS 667 225 A352 A351 A39 A395 Regis D A382 A379 H 20A353 A386 C A354 7 Tarrant Crawford, St Mary the Virgin ST 924 035 A30 A38 10 Weymouth A380 8 Whitcombe Church SY 716 884 A388 CORNWALLA389 13 Tavistock 15 2 A38 A A379 A390 9 Winterborne Tomson, St Andrew SY 885 974 A39 Newquay A381 Torquay Bodmin Liskeard A386 5 A392 A30 Paignton 10 Bradstone, St Nonna SX 382 809 A385 A391 A387 A3058 B A38 A3075 A3122 A379 A312112 A30 Plymouth

11 Luffincott, St James SX 335 948 A39 A381 Dartmouth A390 St

Redruth Truro Austell 14 A381 12 North Huish, St Mary SX 712 566 A393 A30 A379 A3074 A39 A3078 13 Princetown, St Michael & All Angels SX 587 737 3 A39 A3071 Falmouth 14 Revelstoke, St Peter the Poor Fisherman SX 564Penzance 465 A394 A30 15 West Ogwell Church SX 819 700 A3083

16 Bothenhampton, HolyA3110 TrinityISLES Old Church SY 475 918 OF 17 Nether Cerne, All Saints SCILLY SY 669 983 18 Oborne, St Cuthbert Old Chancel ST 653 178 Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey ® on behalf of The Controller of HMSO 19 Stockwood, St Edwold ST 590 069 © Crown Copyright 2012 20 Winterborne Came, St Peter SY 705 884 Other local heritage attractions G and Gardens A House – gardens, quay H Maiden Castle – Iron Age Hillfort  CCT churches in neighbouring counties. B Eden Project I House and Garden For details, go to visitchurches.org.uk or see the relevant county guide. C Gorge – waterfalls, walks J Kingston Lacey – house garden, art collection D Castle Drogo www.english-heritage.org.uk E Rosemoor Gardens – Royal Horticultural Society Telephone 0870 333 1181 F House and Gardens Find out more Welcome to a thousand Our website has a host of additional information years of English history that will help you plan and enjoy your visit, including: • Interactive maps The Churches Conservation Trust is the national • Filterable lists of all our churches charity protecting historic churches at risk. • Up to date opening times We’ve saved over 340 beautiful buildings • Visitor comments which attract more than 1.5 million visitors a year. • Downloadable guides With our help and with your support they are • Image galleries kept open and in use – living once again at the heart of their communities. • Event listings Go to visitchurches.org.uk to access all this and more. Visiting information Go to visitchurches.org.uk for detailed directions, local maps, information on disability access and up to date opening times. For other enquiries, call us on 020 7213 0660 (Monday – Friday, office hours), or [email protected] Please take care when visiting our churches. Floors may be uneven/worn or slippery, and interior lighting may be low.

Assistance dogs are welcome. For full disabled access information, see our website. Unsure about the ‘keyholder nearby’ access? You will find details at the church or call us in advance. Parking is available at most churches – see the website for more details.

The closest station for each church is shown in the guide. For bus routes, see traveline.org.uk Cyclists welcome! For cycle routes, go to sustrans.org.uk Help us save historic churches The CCT needs to raise an additional £1.5million every year just to cover essential repairs. If you enjoy your visit please leave a donation at the church, or go to visitchurches.org.uk/donate for details of how you can help.

Become a fan visitchurches.org.uk facebook.com/ChurchesConservationTrust The Churches Conservation Trust Follow us 1 West Smithfield, London EC1A 9EE twitter.com/TheCCT Registered Charity No: 258612 © CCT 2011