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A Visitor's Guide to the Four Inns of Court in Central London

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A Visitor's Guide to the Four Inns of Court in Central London A VISITOR’S GUIDE TO THE FOUR INNS OF COURT IN CENTRAL LONDON By RICHARD RUDA Member of the Bar of the District of Columbia Member, Edward Coke Appellate Inn of Court, Washington, D.C. WASHINGTON, D.C.: MMVIII © 2008 Richard Ruda All rights reserved. No part of this book may be re‐ printed or reproduced or utilized in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, including pho‐ tocopying or recording, without permission in writing from the author. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Preface THE MIDDLE TEMPLE AND MIDDLE TEMPLE HALL 1 THE INNER TEMPLE AND TEMPLE CHURCH 30 LINCOLN’S INN 70 GRAY’S INN 98 Endnotes 131 PREFACE More years ago than I can bring myself to admit, I attended a concert in the New Hall at Lincoln’s Inn. Al- though I can still recall the evening’s program (piano works of Debussy), what really stands out in the memory is the magnificent hall of the Inn, and loveliness of the Inn itself. I was a graduate student at London University at the time and had visited the Soane Museum in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, but prior to that concert I hadn’t a clue what Lincoln’s Inn itself was, much less that there were three other Inns of Court close by. That has changed in the intervening decades. I have visited the Inns often, first as a tourist, then as a free- lance journalist writing for the New York Times, and fi- nally while preparing this guidebook. Its purpose is sim- ply to call attention to what I had the good fortune to dis- cover so long ago: that the four Inns of Court allow visi- tors to stroll their precincts, and even to enter certain of their buildings, on weekdays during regular business hours. For anyone interested in the very special world in- habited by English barristers, or even simply in architec- ture, history, literary associations, and sheer beauty, a visit to the Inns of Court is a revelation. Although it would be misleading to suggest that the Inns are as magnificent as the finest colleges at Oxford and Cambridge, there are ways in which the Inns exceed Oxford and Cambridge in interest. For one thing, they are very easy to visit, with no restrictions during the weekdays, and no admission fees. Second, they have some very high points architecturally that equal those of the finest colleges at Oxford and Cam- bridge. For example, Middle Temple Hall, which is open to visitors, was the prototype for the aptly-named Great Hall at Trinity College, Cambridge, built just a few years later. Likewise, Temple Church is unsurpassed in archi- tectural quality by the best college chapels at Oxford and Cambridge (with the exception of the Chapel of Kings College, Cambridge). And visitors are welcome to visit Temple Church on weekdays and to attend services there on Sunday mornings – an experience not to be missed. Finally, the Inns of Court have one advantage for visitors that the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge lack. They are and have been for many centuries the working quarters for English barristers, as well as many famous Britons who were not lawyers. No Oxford or Cambridge college has as many fascinating and important literary and historical associations as the Inns of Court do, simply be- cause these Inns were the working and living places of scores of highly accomplished adults, including Thomas More, Francis Bacon, John Donne, Samuel Johnson, Judah P. Benjamin, and John Mortimer (of “Rumpole” fame). Then, of course, there are the great legal scholars, such as Edward Coke, William Blackstone, and Lord Mansfield, who are as well-known to American lawyers as to their English colleagues. It remains for me to thank Cindy Dennis of the American Inns of Court for her interest in and support for this modest guidebook. As a member of the Edward Coke Appellate Inn of Court in Washington, D.C., I am natu- rally thrilled to be able to contribute in a small way to an increased awareness of the sights and associations of these unique English institutions, and best of all (should Fate al- low) to foster closer ties between the four London Inns and my fellow members of the American Inns of Court. Richard Ruda Washington, D.C. February 19, 2008 I. THE MIDDLE TEMPLE AND MIDDLE TEMPLE HALL “The Temple is a public thorough- fare; they may write up on the gates that it is not, but so long as the gates are open, it is and will be.” Charles Dickens, Martin Chuzzlewit The Honourable Societies of the Middle Temple and the Inner Temple are so close together that they are often referred to simply as “The Temple” and visited as such. The two Societies are, however, entirely separate organizationally. Indeed, Hugh Bellot wrote a century ago of the disagreements that “from time to time have ex- isted between the two societies,” which “sometimes reached the breaking point.”1 While there are no such disagreements today, dif- ferences still arise occasionally -- for example, over how best to memorialize the new Millennium in 2000, as we shall see when we visit the Inner Temple on another tour. In any case, the distinct histories and identities of the Middle Temple and the Inner Temple warrant separate treatment. Our tour of the Middle Temple, like those of the three other Inns of Court, is based on the physical layout of the Inn. It should therefore be noted at the outset that visitors whose time is limited should be sure to visit Mid- dle Temple Hall, one of the great Elizabethan buildings of London, ordinarily open weekdays during Legal Terms from 10 a.m. to noon and 3 to 4 p.m., as well as for lunch from 12:30 to 2 p.m. (If you wish to begin your visit at 2 Middle Temple Hall, walk a short way down Middle Temple Lane to Fountain Court and turn to page 9.) Otherwise, we begin our visit to the Middle Tem- ple at the Fleet Street Gateway on the south side of the street, a few paces west of Chancery Lane (Bus No. 11; Underground: Temple, Chancery Lane). Though often incorrectly attributed to Sir Christopher Wren, the Gate- way is nonetheless a handsome seventeenth-century build- ing that is an excellent introduction to the architectural and historical riches of the Inns of Court. There has been an entrance to “the Temple” on this spot since the Knights Templar moved their London headquarters to this site around 1160.2 The present gate- way is an elegant composition in the classical style, with tall ionic pilasters and a pediment with a handsome “bull’s eye” window. An agnus dei (lamb of God), the symbol of the Middle Temple, is carved in stone over the main doorway. The gateway was built in 1684, as recorded in the Latin inscription between the first and second floors. The date of its construction and its style of architecture explain why the Gateway is attributed to Wren, who designed so many fine classical churches in the City of London at the time. Another reason may be that the gateway’s de- signer, Roger North (1653-1734), consulted Wren during its construction.3 While North was a prominent barrister of the Middle Temple, he was also a very serious amateur archi- tect.4 He entered the Middle Temple as a student in 1669 and was called to the bar in 1675. He was thus a barrister of the Inn when it was devastated by a fire in 1679 and much new building was needed. 5 In the late 1600’s gentleman-architects like North were still common – as Sir Nikolaus Pevsner remarked in connection with this very building, “Wren was an ama- teur too”6 – and North had skill as well as enthusiasm. 3 He designed Middle Temple Gateway and supervised its construction in 1683-84, the year in which he was Treas- urer (principal officer) of the Society. North sought Wren’s advice during its construc- tion, and the master architect recommended that wood and plaster be used in the pediment at the top rather than costlier stone. However, North wrote, “out of a proud high spirit” he declined Wren’s suggestion “and made the whole [pediment] of stone, & it is as lusty [vigorous], as most are.”7 In truth, North’s design, while handsome, is far less sophisticated than Wren’s work. But would the charming pediment we see today have survived for over 300 years if North had taken Wren’s advice? We pass through the Gateway by the small door on the left (open weekdays during business hours) and en- ter Middle Temple Lane. Numbers 1-3, on our left, are a range of white wooden buildings whose upper floors overhang the pavement in medieval fashion. They were built contemporaneously with North’s Gateway. The next group of buildings on the left is a lively example of the Queen Anne Revival in bright red brick. Designed by Sir T. G. Jackson in 1893, it appears to have its frontage in Middle Temple Lane.8 It is, however, an Inner Temple chambers block called Hare Court, and ex- tends to the east beyond our view. It is also illustrates how Middle and Inner Temple buildings intermingle along the central axis of “the Temple,” Middle Temple Lane. On our right is one of the picturesque quadrangles characteristic of the Middle Temple. Until World War II this was actually two courts divided by a building in the center – Essex Court on the west side and Brick Court closer to Middle Temple Lane.
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