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Home , Achalgarh Fort, Apatani people, Fort Aguada, Gagron Fort, Gurudongmar Lake, Kaba Gandhi No Delo

© Lonely Planet Publications 1225 Index

A 632-3 Haridwar 473 Abhaneri 183 Ajanta 825-8 Puttaparthi 979 accommodation 1138-41, see also Ajatasatru 581 Rishikesh 477 individual locations Ajmer 192-5, 194 Sabarmati 732 language 1201-2, 1204-5 Akbar 44, 408 830-1 Achalgarh 230 Alang 748 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta activities 105-18, see also individual Alappuzha 999-1004, 1000 Dhanwantari 988 activities Albuquerque, Alfonso de 43 Sri Aurobindo 1074 acute mountain sickness (AMS) 1198 Alchi 321 Sri Ramana 1070 Adalaj Wav 737 alcohol 87-8 611-23 68, 168, 663, 692 Alexander the Great 39 ATMs 1151-2 634-6, 634 Allahabad 434-8, 435, 838 attar 1160 Agatti Island 1037 Alleppey, see Alappuzha Attari 275-6 Agra 399-412, 421-3, 402, 404 Almora 495-7, 496 Auli 485 accommodation 410-12 Along 624-5 Aurangabad 817-21, 818 attractions 403-10 altitude sickness 1198 Aurangzeb 45, 46, 404 drinking 421 Alwar 187-8 Auroville 1078-9 emergency 401 Amaravathi 976 autorickshaws 1182-3 entertainment 421 Amber 182 avian flu 1194 food 412-21 Amchi 375 Ayodhya 432-4 INDEX history 399 Amdavad, see ayurveda 116, 993 internet access 401 amoebic dysentery 1196-7 courses 174, 1074-5 medical services 401 Amritsar 268-75, 269, 10 Delhi 138 money 401 Amte, Murlidhar Devidas 830 879 shopping 421-2 Anandpur Sahib 266-7 Ayurved University 767 tourist information 401 Andamanese people 1123 173 tours 410 Andaman Islands 1120-37, 1121 1017 travel to/from 422 954-79, 955 917-18 travel within 422 festivals 956 Panchakarma 1033 407, 408 food 418-19 Ahmad Shah Durrani 46 volunteering 1165-6 B Ahmedabad 727-37, 728, 730 943 Babur 44 accommodation 733-4 animals 96-8, see also individual animals Badami 946-8, 947 attractions 729-32 Anjuna 882-5, 883 Baga 877-82, 878 food 734-5 antelope 97, 677, 717 Bageshwar 498-9 history 727 ants 721 Bahadur Shah Zafar 47, 48-9 internet access 727 Apatani people 624 45 medical services 727 Araku Valley 974 Baijnath 383 money 728 Arambol 887-9, 888 Bakkali 537 shopping 735-6 architecture 78-9 baksheesh 1152-3 tourist information 729 area codes, see inside front cover Balaji 183 tours 733 Armanath 287 Balasore 667 travel to/from 736 arts 75-81, see also music, painting Baliguda 662 travel within 737 courses 1074, 1143 Banasura 618 AIDS 63 623-7 Banbassa 500 Aihole 949 Aryan tribes 39 Bandhavgarh National Park air pollution 103, 1197 Ashoka, Emperor 40, 41 719-20 air travel ashrams 114-16 Banerjee, Rajah 547 to/from 1173-6 Beatles, the 478 , see Bengaluru within India 1178-9 , Mahatma 497 Bangaram Island 1037 INDEX beaches Bavikonda 974 bats 97 bathrooms 1140 Bastar 721-4 Basgo 320 Baroli 209 Bengaluru 901-13, Benaulim 891-4, Belur 924 1035-6 Bekal begging 65 Beatles, the478 bears 97,409,831,926,1108,1118 Baroda, Barmer 248 660 Barkul 666 Baripada bargaining 1145,1152-3,1161 392 Bara Shigri baoris baolis Bangladesh bordercrossings545, 1226 000 000 Colva 891-4, Chowara 992 Cherai 1026-7 Chapora 885, Cavelossim 894 Candolim 873-7, Calangute 877-82, Benaulim 891-4, Baga 877-82, Anjuna 882-5, Kollam 997, Havelock Island1132-4, Aguada 873-7, Fort food 909-10 911 entertainment 910 drinking 904-6 attractions accommodation 907-9 993-6, Varca 894 Vagator 885, 873-7, Sinquerim Samudra 992 Pulinkudi 992 Palolem 895-7, Neil Island1134-5 Little Andaman1137 636, 641 731,732,738 183,204 Map pages Map Photograph pages

see Index (B) Vadodara 997 892 886 886 892 878 883 994 895 902 874 , 892 874 9 878 , 874 905 1133 Bijapur 949-52, Bijaipur 213 bird-watching 97,98,105-6 Bir 383 Billing 383 249-53, Bikaner Bhopal 689-94, Bhojpur 694-5 667-8 Wildlife Sanctuary Bhitarkanika 695 Bhimbetka Bhavnagar 746-8, Bharuch 742 Bharmour 388-9 Bharatpur 183-5, bhangra 265 849 Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh Bhagsu 380 Betla (Palamau) NationalPark 583-4 539 Berhampore 566-84, Bidar 952-3 bicycle travel, Bhutan bordercrossings545,1176-7 Bhuntar 349 Bhujodi 773 Bhuj 770-3, Bhubaneswar 645-51, volunteering 578 volunteering food 416 festivals 570 Pench 716-17 Reserve 925-7 Biosphere Reserve Nilgiri NationalParkNameri 618 737 Nal SarovarBirdSanctuary 790-1 775 Sanctuary Little Rann 1005 Kumarakom BirdSancturay 766 BirdSanctuary Khijadiya GhanaNationalParkKeoladeo 185 Nature Park Lake 917 Karanji NationalPark 717-19 Kanha 652 Wildlife Sanctuary Chandaka Wildlife & Calimere (Kodikkarai) Wildlife Sanctuary Bhitarkanika travel within913 travel to/from911-12 tours 907 information904 tourist shopping 911 money 904 904 medical services internet access903 history 901-2 Bird Sanctuary 1083 Bird Sanctuary 667-8 771 567 see 690 950 250 cycling 184 747 , 693 647 , 695 Bombay, Bollywood 788 Bodhidharma 1067 Bodhgaya 576 boat travel boat tours108 boars 757 bison 1006,1013 Bishnupur 537-8 59-61 birth Bylakuppe 930 Bylakuppe 97 butterflies business hours1141 bush walking, bus travel1180-1,1183 Bundi 203-7, buffalo 935 39-58,72,374,552,971 Buddha Jayanti26 Brokpa people323 rule47-9,50 British bread 84-5 68 Brahman 68 Brahma Bose, SubhasChandra516 border crossings1176-8 books 23 Bomdila 625 within India1180,1183 to/from India1178 Vedantangal 1065 BirdSanctuary BirdSanctuary Thattekkad 266 Sultanpur BirdSanctuary Satpura NationalPark 701 NationalParkSanjay Gandhi BirdSanctuary Ranganathittu meditation 116-17 36 itineraries 275-6,1177-8 Pakistan Nepal 456,499,545,558,574, Bhutan 545,1176-7 Bangladesh 545,636,641 travel 24 religion 69-70,71 photography 1153 782 Mumbai history 39,42,44,46,48,55,58 health 1193 food 84,86 culture 59,63,64 bird-watching 98 1012-13 809-10 921 1177 see Mumbai 205 see trekking INDEX 1227

yoga courses 1110 see also Index (C)Index 892 Kochi Kodagu see see Immaculate Conception 866 743 743 (Diu) 751 () 870 arts 1074, 1143 ayurveda 174, 1074-5 518, 867-8, 1017 Armenian Church 514 Armenian Church JesusBasilica of Bom 871 Church of Bom Jesus 743 of the Church of Our Lady Church of Our Lady of the Rosary Church of Our Lady of the Sea Church of 1030 Church of St Francis of Assisi Church of St Francis of Assisi Goa 871 Holy Rosary Cathedral 514 Our Lady Basilica 1083 Our Lady of Mercy Church 894 1074 Puducherry San Thome Cathedral 1049 Sé Cathedral 870 St John’s Church 513 Cathedral 509 St Paul’s Church 751 St Paul’s St Stephen’s Church 1115 Church 562 St Teresa’s St Thomas’ Cathedral 787 St Thomas’ Church 751 Thrissur 1027 1197-8 Corbett Tiger ReserveCorbett Tiger 487-9 costs 21-4 courses 1142-4, coffee plantations 929 coffee 1109-11, Coimbatore Colva 891-4, commission agents 1147 consulates 1147-8 cooking courses 91-2, 139, 218, 374, Coonoor 1111-12 Coorg, Chola empire 41, 42 Chola empire Christianity 72-3 Christmas 27, 843 595 Chumbi Valley churches Cinque Island 1132 climate 20-1, 1142, 1143, 1147, climate change 103, 1174 clothing 63, 1171 cobras 97 Cochin, 670 1048 1080 212 1044-5 886 225, 676, 679 1048 entertainment 264 food 261-3 medical services 257 tourist 257 information travel to/from 264 travel within 264-5 accommodation 1051-2 activities 1050 attractions 1047-50 courses 1050-1 drinking 1054 1047-9, 1051, 1052, 1053, Egmore entertainment 1054-5 food 1052-4 history 1043-6 internet access 1046 medical services 1046 money 1046 shopping 1055 tourist information 1046-7 tours 1051 travel to/from 1055-8 travel within 1058 Triplicane 1051-2, 1053, 788 Terminus) 671 festivals volunteering 1166 activities 1142 attractions 1142 food 1142 health 1142 Chandipur 667 Chandor 891 24 Chandra, Vikram Chapora 885-6, Chauhan, Prithviraj 41 328 Chemrey Chennai 1042-58, Chennamangalam 1027 Cherrapunjee (Sohra) 641 (VictoriaChhatrapati Shivaji Terminus chhatris 669-70, 720-4, 1079-80, child labour 63-4, 1156 travel with 1141-2 children, Chilika Lake 659-60 Chiling 319-20 chinkaras 97 1132 Chiriya Tapu chitals 97, 831, 926 723-4 Chitrakote Falls Chitrakut 438-9 Chittorgarh 210-13, 8 258 878 8 826 874 824 see 387 Kannur churches Kolkata see see Kozhikode see see Bikaner 253 Jaisalmer 246-7 Pushkar 196 Aurangabad 819 Badami 946-7 Bhaja 845 Bhimbetka 695 Diu 751 Edakal 1033 Elephanta Island 809 Ellora 822-5, accommodation 260-1 attractions 257-60 drinking 263-4 Ajanta 825-8, Kanheri 810 Karla 845 Khandagiri 649 Lohani 711 Mawsmai 641 700 Pandav 816 Leni Pandav 848 Pataleshvara 1059 Tiger Udaigiri 699 Udayagiri 649 Vijayawada 975 Candolim 873-7, Cannanore, canyoning 108 Cape Cormorin, Calcutta, camel safaris 106, C 877-82, Calangute Calicut, camels 199, 246-7, 251, 253, camels 199, 246-7, Chamba Valley 383-9 Chamba Valley Champaner 741-2 Chand, Nek 260 Chandaka Sanctuary Wildlife 652 Chandigarh 256-65, cell phones 1162 chai 87 Chail 342 42 Chalukya empire Chamba 386-8, Cauvery Delta 1083 caves 108 carbon offset schemes 1174 carbon offset carbon-monoxide poisoning 1139 car travel 1181-2 carpets 1155-6 caste system 39, 61 cathedrals, 1228 Index (C-D)

courses continued Daporijo 624 Old Delhi 129-34, 140, 143, 147, cooking 91-2, 139, 218, 374, 518, Darap 601 132 867-8, 1017 Dargah 193 Paharganj 140, 141-2, 143, 147-8, crafts 793, 1143 Darjeeling 547-59, 548 152, 142 dance 446, 478, 518, 1017 accommodation 554-6 shopping 153-6 language 139, 375, 446, 478, 554, attractions 552-4 South Delhi 144-6, 150-1, 153, 793, 1050, 1144 drinking 557 154-5 martial arts 1144 entertainment 557 tourist information 125 massage 307, 375 food 556-7 tours 139 meditation 139, 174, 307, 374, history 547 travel to/from 156-60 446, 477, 518, 1050-1 internet access 549 travel within 160-1 mountaineering 554 medical services 549 volunteering 1166 music 197, 218, 446, 478, 1144 money 549 zoos 137 painting 218 shopping 557 dengue fever 1194 philosophy 374 tourist information 551 Desai, Morarji 56 tea 543 tours 554 Deshnok 253 crafts 80-1 travel to/from 558-9 Devbagh 934 courses 793, 1143 Dawki 642 Devi Kund 253 credit cards 1152 death 59-61 Dha-Hanu 322 cricket 81-3 96 dhal 85 Kolkata 527 Deeg 186-7 Dhankar 395 Mumbai 804 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 1193 Dharamkot 380 crocodiles 97 deer 97 Dharamsala 368-9, 370-1, 12 Crocodile Bank 1059 Bandhavgarh National Park 719 Dharasuram 1082 Kanger Valley National Park 724 Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary 652 Dharavi 793 Ken Gharial Sanctuary 689 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 1012 Dharmasthala 933-4 677 Kanger Valley National Park 724 Dhauli 652 INDEX Sanctuary 988 Kanha National Park 717 Dhrangadhra 775 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary Madhav National Park 677 Diamond Harbour 536 Sanctuary 1013 717 diarrhoea 1196-7 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary Sarnath 454 Dibrugarh 622-3 757, 758 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757 digital photography 1153 cultural sensitivity 115 Satpura National Park 701 Diglipur 1136 cultural tours 109 deforestation 103 627 culture 59-83 Dehra Dun 461-5, 462 Dirang 626 books 59, 63, 64 dehydration 1197 disabilities, travellers with 1164 customs regulations 1144 Delhi 119-64, 122-3 discounts 1142, 1147 Cuttack 666-7 accommodation 139-46 Diskit 324 cycle-rickshaws 1183 activities 138 Diu 749-55, 750, 751 cycling 109, 1179-80 attractions 129-38 diving 109, 110 Connaught Place 137-8, 143, 144, Andaman Islands 1124 D 148, 152-3, 154, 130-1 Goa 877, 879 Dal Lake 287, 12 courses 138-9 Havelock Island 1132 Dalai Lama 372, 374 drinking 151-3 health 1197 Dalhousie 383-6, 384 entertainment 153 Lakshadweep 1038 Dalrymple, William 24, 46, 48-9 festivals 125 Diwali 27, 839-40, 840 Daman 743-5, 744 food 146-51 dolphins 97 dance 75 Greater Delhi 161-4 dosas 415 courses 446, 478, 518, 1017 history 120 dowry 60 Dandi 743 internet access 121 Drass 294 dangers 1144-7 medical services 121 Dravidian civilisation 1041 metro 161, 162 drinks 87-8, see also wine 000 Map pages money 121, 124 driving, see car travel 000 Photograph pages New Delhi & around 134-7, 143, drugs 862, 1145, 1146-7, 1151 144, 148-50, 126-7 Drukpa Teshi 26 INDEX 1229 417

420 874 414 419 415 , 408 9 418 Index (D-F) Index

Gujarat 417-18 health 1144-5, 1197 Kashmir 415 Kerala 420, 1021-3, language 92-4 417 418 Mangalore 417 Northeast States 416-17, Orissa 419 414, Punjab 414-15 91 religion 88-9 restaurants 416 sweets 86, Nadu 420 Tamil Uttar 415 Pradesh 415 vegetarian travellers 90 416 Ahhichatragarh 239 Akbar’s 436 Amber 182 Bala Quila 187 Barabati 666 Bekal 1036 Bhadra 729 Bharuch 742 Bidar 952-3 Chandragiri 978 Chapora 885 Chittorgarh 211 Danesborg 1083 Daulatabad 821-2 Dhankar 395 Bihar 416 books 84, 86 1142 for children courses 91-2 customs 90-1 88 festivals Goa 419, 407, Agra Andaman Islands 1125, 1133 Islands 1125, Andaman Manali 362 418-19 Andhra Pradesh Bengali 523 bhelpuri football 804 98-9 forests Fort 873-7, Aguada forts fishing 1148 food 84-94, 413-20, 842

837

838 901 842

839

843 1001 1070 Rajasthan 167 Ramadan 26, 843 26 (Car Festival) Rath Yatra 1145 safety Sankranti 956 Sikkim 588 Nadu 1043 Tamil New Year Tibetan Ugadi 956 Uttar 403 Pradesh Uttarakhand 461 West Bengal 535 yoga 479, 1043 Zanskar 300 Bollywood 788 65 culture 863 festivals Kollywood 1054 City 963 Ramoji Film Madhya Pradesh 671 Mahankali Jatra 956 Maharashtra 815 GanjMcLeod 375 Mumbai 779 841 Narial Purnima Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race Northeast States 612 Orissa 646 Pongal 27, 839, 1043 982, Pooram Festival 257 Punjab 199, 843, Pushkar Camel Fair Gangaur 842, Goa 863 Gujarat 729 257 335 Holi 27, 839, Jammu 282 842-3 Janmastami 26, 570 901 Karthikai 1043, Deepam Festival Kashmir 282 Kerala 982 Kolkata 503 Kumbh Mela 838-9, Ganesh Chaturthi 26, 841-2, film 23, 76-7 ShahFiroz 43 War of Independence 47, 51 First fish 85, 97 841 9 841 , 840 424 844 844

inside front cover

inside front cover

1007 see see 824 festivals festivals & events see 1006-10, Andhra Pradesh 956 Bihar 570 Chhattisgarh 671 Christmas 843 Delhi 125 Diwali 27, 839-40, Elephant Festival Elephant Festival Dussehra 27, 840, 917 27, 843 Eid al-Fitr Elephant Festival film 863 food 88 Durga Puja 27, 507, 840-1, Durga Puja Goa 867 Kerala 1003 Sikkim 587 elephant rides & safaris 106-7 Nilgiri Reserve Biosphere 925-7 Sanctuary Wildlife festivals & events 23, 26-7, 837-44 festivals Faizabad 432-4 Faizabad 189-90 423-5, Fatehpur F E Earrakote 723 Company 45, 47, 48 Easter 26 economy 65 Eid al-Adha 27 27, 843 Eid al-Fitr Eid-Milad-un-Nabi 27 electricity 1139 Elephanta Island 809 1013 elephants 584, 618-9, 652, 1012, Dussehra 27, 840, 917 Dussehra 27, 840, Dwarka 764-5 Dudhsagar Falls 872 Falls Dudhsagar 226 Dungarpur 580 Dungeshwari Cave Temples 27, 507, 840-1, Durga Puja etiquette 62 Ettumanur 1006 events, exchange rates, Ellora 822-5, email services 1150 embassies 1147-8 emergencies, Enfield Bullet motorcycles 1051 environmental issues 102-4 exports 1158 1230 Index (F-G)

forts continued birthplace of 762 Gokarna 935-43, 936 Diu 751 27 Golden Temple 270-1, 270, 10 874-5 Gandhi Memorial 1100 golf Fort Cochin 1015 Gandhi Memorial Museum 1097 Delhi 138 Fort of St Jerome 743 Gandhi National Memorial 848-9 Kolkata 518 Fort William 509 135 Nainital 490 Gagron 209 Kaba Gandhi No Delo 768 Naldehra 341-2 Golconda 962, 962 451 Srinagar 290 Gondla 391 Raj Ghat 134 gompas 73 Gwalior 672-4 Sevagram Ashram 830-1 Bardan 298 290 Gandhi, Rajiv 54, 56 Busty 553 Ita 623 Gandhi, Sonia 57 Bir 383 Jaigarh 183 Gandhinagar 738-9 Bodhgaya 577 Jaisalmer 241, 6 Ganesh 68 Chamba 295 Janjira 831-2 Ganesh Chaturthi 26, 841-2, 842 Chowkhang 306 Jhansi 439 Gangakondacholapuram 1082 Dhankar 395 Junagarh 249 Gangaur 842, 842 Dirang 626 Kamakhya Devi 345 River 441-4, 445, 446-7, 7 Diskit 324 Kangla 630 588-94, 590 Druk Sangak Choling 553 Kangra 382 Ganpatipule 832-3 Durpin 562 Kankwari 188 gardens, see parks & gardens Enchey 589, 591 Kondapalli 976 642 Ensa 325 Kota 207 Gateway of India 783-5 Gandentse 295 Krishnagiri 1071 540 Gonkang 305 Kumbalgarh 224 717, 831, 926, 1013, 1108, Guru Ghantal 391 Lohagarh 183 1118 Hemis 327 Maheshwar 708 Gaurisagar 622 Hunder 325 INDEX 231 Gaya 575-6, 575 Karsha 298 Moti Daman 743 gay issues in India 64-5 Khardong 392 Naggar Castle 355-6 gay travellers 1148-9 Kunsamnamdoling 546 Pokaran 248-9 gazelles 757 Lachen 607 855 gems 179 Lachung 606 Raigad 855 geography 95-6 Lava 565 Rajagiri 1071 geology 95-6 Likir 320 Ramnagar 445 Geyzing 598 Lingdum 595 (Lal Qila) 129-34 ghats Lingshet 298 852 Har-ki-Pairi Ghat 471 Manali 359 Taragarh 193, 203 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat 790 Namgyal Tsemo 305 Tirumayam 1092 Pushkar 196 Ngadak 596 Tsemo 303 Raj Ghat 134 Old Rumtek 595 Uperkot 759 Ram Ghat 438-57 Pemayangtse 600 Warangal 971 Shanagar Burning Ghat 516 Phuktal 298 French rule 47 Vijayawada 975 Phyang 319 fruit 85 Vishram Ghat 426 Rangdum 296 Ghori 42 Rewalsar Lake 348 G Ghosh, Amitav 24 Rumtek Gompa Complex 594 Gama, Vasco da 43, 47 Ghur empire 43-4 Sakya Choling 553 Gandhi, Indira 53, 54, 56, 136 giardiasis 1197 Samstemling 325 Gandhi, Mahatma 48, 49, 50, 51, 53, gibbons 97, 642 Samten Choling 553 54, 570 Gingee 1071 Sangachoeling 601 Anasakti Ashram 497 Goa 858-97, 859 Sankar 306 environmental issues 867 Serdung 295 000 Map pages festivals 863 Shargol 296 000 Photograph pages food 419, 9, 419 Shashur 392 volunteering 875, 1166 Soma 303 INDEX 1231

960 , 958 839 Index (G-H) Index accommodation 964-5 attractions 959-60 courses 963-4 drinking 966 entertainment 967 food 965-6 internet access 957 medical services 959 money 959 shopping 967 tourist information 959 travel to/from 967-8 travel within 968-70 314 West Bengal 538 Mumbai 791 Ooty 1115-16 Pushkar 196 Udaipur 218 Dal Lake 287 Kerala 1002 Srinagar 291, 292 Independence 50, 52-3 Independence 38 resources internet Islam 40 42-3 Islamic empire Kashmir 53-5 Maratha 45, 46-7 empire Mauryan 40 empire Mughal 44-6, 48-9 empire 42 empire Pallava Partition 50, 52-3 Portuguese rule 47 40, 46-7 42, 45 Vijayanagar empire hydroelectricity 346 hyenas 757 holidays 1149 homestays 1140 Hooghly River 537 hornbills 97 horse riding 107 Hospet 943-4 houseboats 1002-3 Hubli 944-6 Humayun 44 Humayun’s Tomb 135 Hume, Allan Octavian 338 Hunder 325 Hyderabad 956-70, hitching 1182 HIV 63, 1195 hockey 82 Hodka 773 Holi 27, 839, 332-3 1133 see also individual trekking see 65 Bikaner 250 Diu 751 Jaisalmer 241 Mahansar 192 Mandawa 190 Nawalgarh 191 Shekhawati 190 Udaipur 217 books 1193 1142 children food 1144-5, 1197 insurance 1191 1193, 1194 internet resources vaccinations 1192-3 Coonoor 1111-12 Kotagiri 1112 852-5 Matheran 833-5 Hills 265 Mt Abu 226-30 Mussoorie 465 Ooty 1112-18 Ranikhet 494 637-40 335 festivals volunteering 1166-7 locations Aryan tribes 39 books 39, 42, 44, 46, 48, 55, 58 British rule 47-9, 50 Buddhism 39-58 42 Chalukya empire 41, 42 Chola empire rule 47 French 43-4 Ghur empire 40-1 Gupta empire 38-9 Harappan culture 41-2 havelis Havelock Island 1132-4, Hawa Mahal 169, 172 health 1191-9 heat stroke 1197-8 Hemis 327 hepatitis 1194-5 Hessaraghatta 913-14 hijras hiking, hill stations Himachal Pradesh 330-97, Himalaya 34, 95 1200-4 Hinduism 41-2, 67-71, 552 Hirapur652 history 38-58, 6 , 941 , 613 470 255 726 939 673 Arambol see Spituk 319 Stakna 327 Stok 318 Stongde 298 395, 396 Tabo 328 Takthog 605 Tashiding 383 Tashijong 626 Tawang 392 Tayul Tharpa Choling 562 Thekchhok 328 Thiksey 326 Thongsa 562 Chokling Tse 372 Tsuglagkhang Ugyen Sanag Choling 395 Wanla 322 Yiga Choling 553 602 Yuksom 323 Yungdrung Zonzhar 325 349 festivals 729 festivals food 417-18 permits 727 volunteering 1166 festivals 257 festivals hang-gliding 109-10 38-9 Harappan culture Haridwar 469-74, Haryana 254-65, H haggling 1161 Hajo 616-17 Halebid 924 938-43, Harmal, Gondal 762 Gondla 391 Gopalpur-on-Sea 660-2 Gorakhpur 454-5 27 Govardhana Puja Gramphu 391, 392 HimalayanGreat Park National Gujarat 725-76, Gupta empire 40-1 Gupta empire 43, 71 Guru Shikhar 230 608 gurus 116 612-16, Gwalior 672-6, Hassan 923-4 1232 Index (I-K)

I Jaipur 168-82, 170-1 K idlis 420 accommodation 174-7 kabaddi 82 immigration 1173 attractions 169-73 Kabi Lunchok 605 630-1 courses 174 Kabini Lake 926 incense 1160 drinking 178-9 Kachchh, see Kutch Independence 50, 52-3 entertainment 179 Kadmat Island 1038 Independence Day 26 food 177-8 Kaffer 565 Indian Museum 509 history 168 Kailasahar 637 Indian National Congress 48, 49 internet access 168 Kakkabe 929 Indian Uprising, see First War of medical services 169 kalarippayat 1022, 1023-4 Independence money 169 Kalimpong 560-4, 561 Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Wildlife shopping 179-81 Kalpa 346-7 Sanctuary 1108-9 tourist information 169 Kama Sutra carvings 680, 682, 5 Indo-Gangetic Plains 95-6 tours 174 Kamaraj, K 1100-1 Indore 704-7, 706 travel to/from 181 Kamru 345 Indus Valley 326-7 travel within 182 Kanchipuram 1065-7, 1066 Indus Valley civilisation 38-9 walking tour 173-4, 174 Kangra 381-2 information technology (IT) Jaisalmer 240-7, 242, 6 Kanha National Park 717-19 industry 67, 906 Jaisamand Lake 225 Kannur 1034-5 inner line permits, see permits Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary Kanyakumari 1100-3, 1102 insect bites 1198 544 Kargil 295 insurance 1149-50 Jalgaon 828 Karnataka 898-953, 899 health 1191 Jallianwala Bagh massacre festivals 901 motorcycle 1184-5 272 volunteering 1167 internet access 1150 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 134, 11, 11 Karodi 743 internet resources 24-5 Jambughoda 742 Karsha 297-8 air tickets 1174-5 Jammu 277-329, 280-1, 284 Kasauli 342 INDEX health 1193, 1194 festivals 282 Kashmir 277-329, 280-1 history 38 volunteering 1167 conflict in 53-5 volunteering 1165 Jamnagar 765-8, 766 festivals 282 wildlife conservation 105 Janmastami 26, 842-3 food 415 Islam 40, 71 Japanese B encephalitis 1195 safety 283 Islamic empire 42-3 Jarawa 1123 volunteering 1167 Islamnagar 694 Jari 350 Kasol 352 623 Jashipur 666 Kathakali 1022, 1023 itineraries 28-37 Jawalamukhi 382 Kausani 497-8 jeep travel 107, 1186 kayaking 110-11 J Jehangir 44 Kaza 393-4 Jabalpur 713-15, 714 Jelep La 595 618-19 jackals 97, 1118 jet lag 1193-4 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 185-6 Jagdalpur 721-2 jewellery 1156 Kerala 980-1038, 981 Jahan, Shah 404, 407 Jeypore 663-4 communism 991 Jaigarh 183 209-10 environmental issues 1003 Jainism 72 Jhansi 439, 677 festivals 982 Jain temples Jharkhand 566-7, 582-4 food 420, 1021-3, 420 Bikaner 250 festivals 570 Kesariya 574 Daman 743 Jhunjhunu 192 Keylong 391 Jamnager 766 Jispa 392 Khachoedpalri Lake 601-2 Lodhruva 248 Jodhpur 230-9, 232 khadi 451 Mandu 712 934-5 Khajjiar 386 Patan 738 596-7 Khajuraho 680-9, 681, 5 Jorhat 619-20 Khalsi 322 000 Map pages Joshimath 484-5 Khangchendzonga 552, 8 000 Photograph pages Junagadh 759-61, 760 Khardung 324 Jungle Book 717 Khardung La 323-4 INDEX 1233 see

670 836 7 429 , 302 Index (K-M) Index see books also 671 festivals food 417 volunteering 686, 1168 accommodation 308-11 accommodation activities 307 attractions 303-7 courses 307 drinking 312 food 311-12 internet access 302 medical services 303 money 303 shopping 312 tourist information 303 travel to/from 312-15 travel within 315 719 Bandhavgarh National Park 583 National Park Betla (Palamau) Chandaka Sanctuary Wildlife 652 SanctuaryChinnar Wildlife 1012 Kanha 717 Park National Kumbalgarh Sanctuary Wildlife 225 926 689 National Park Panna 809 Sanjay Gandhi National Park SanctuarySasan Gir Wildlife 757-9 Nandankanan 651 Park Zoological Neyyar Dam Sanctuary 988 SanctuarySasan Gir Wildlife 757 809-10 Sanjay Gandhi National Park Little Andaman 1137 Little Rann Sanctuary 775 Lodhruva 248 631 Lonar Meteorite Crater 828-9 Lonavla 835-6, 845, 27 Losar (festival) Losar (village) 393-7 Lothal 38, 737-8 428-32, Lucknow Edwin 49 Lutyens, M macaques 97, 926 Madgaon, Madhya Pradesh 669-720, 97 979 Lepakshi lesbian travellers 1148-9 lesbian issues in India 64-5 Likir 320 lions 98, 100-1, 651-2, 758 24, 77-8, 167, 1050, literature Leh 301-15, Leh 9 1081 1037 , 1030 838 354 989 351 , 1007 658 351 208 793, 1050, 1144 225 300 festivals homestays 314 permits 300 travel 310 responsible volunteering 307 courses 139, 375, 446, 478, 554, food 92-4 Hindi 1200-4 1204-6 Tamil Kremmer, ChristopherKremmer, 60 24, Kullu 353-5, 350, Kullu Valley Kumarakom 1005-6 1081-2, Kumbalgarh 224 Kumbalgarh Sanctuary Wildlife Kumbh Mela 838-9, Kumily 1008-9, Kunzum La 393 Kurseong 546-7 Kurukshetra 265-6 Kushinagar 455-6 Kutch 770-6 L Lachen 607 Lachen Chu 607 Lachung 606 Lachung Chu 606 Ladakh 299-329 Lahaul 389-90 Lahaul 390 Valley Lake 215 Pichola Lakshadweep 1036-8, Lalitgiri 668 Lamayuru 322-3 language 1200-6 langurs 719, 926, 1006 laundry 1150 Lava 565 leatherwork 1156-7 legal matters 1150-1 598 Legship Konark 657-9, Konark 657-9, 724 Kondagaon Coast 831-3 Koraput 664 Kota 207-9, Kotagiri 1112 Kotpad 664 Kottayam 1004-5 988-92, Kozhikode 1029-31, 510 1016 1018 10 512 , 1106 9 , 504-5 1014 997 Kodaikanal 81 see 1016 internet access 1013-14 Mattancherry 1020, 1023, accommodation 1019-21 activities 1017 drinking 1021-3 entertainment 1023-4 Ernakulam 1020-1, 1023, Fort Cochin 1019-20, 1021-3, medical services 1014 money 1014 shopping 1024 tourist information 1014 tours 1017-19 travel to/from 1024-5 travel within 1025-6 accommodation 519-22 activities 518 attractions 508-18 BBD Bagh 511, 521, Chowringhee 519-21, 521, drinking 526-7 entertainment 527 503 festivals food 522-6 history 502 internet access 503 medical services 503-6 metro 531 money 506 permits 506 shopping 527, 527-8 tourist information 507 tours 518-19 travel to/from 528-31 travel within 531 volunteering 1167 Kodagu Region 927-30 Kodai, Kodaikanal 1103-8, Khichan 239 Khoksar 391 Khonoma 629 Khuri 248 khurs 97, 775 Kibber 394-5 Kigwema 629 343-7 Kinnaur Valley Kipling, Rudyard 717 Kochi 1013-26, 627-9 kolams Kolhapur 855-7 Kolkata 501-31, Kollam 997-9, 1234 Index (M)

Madikeri 927-9 45, 46-7 Lalitgiri 668 Madras, see Chennai marble 1157 Monastery Loop 601-5 Madurai 1094-100, 1096 Marble Rocks 715-16 Namdroling 930 Mahabaleshwar 852-5, 853 Margao 889-91, 890 Palchen Choeling Monastic Mahabalipuram, see marriage 59-61, 11 Institute 598 Mahabharata 69-70 martial arts courses 1144 Phensang 606 Mahal, Mumtaz 45, 404 Matabari 636 Ratnagiri 668 Mahansar 192 Matheran 833-5, 834 698 Maharashtra 811-57, 812 Matho 319 Sankaram 974-5 festivals 815 Mathura 425-7, 426 St Augustine 871 food 418 Maurya, Chandragupta 39, 40 Than 773 volunteering 1168 Mauryan empire 40 Thotlakonda 974 Mahavir Jayanti 26 Mayabunder 1136 Udayagiri 668 Maheshwar 708-9 Mayapur 539 money 21-4, 1151-3, see also inside Mahmud of Ghazni 41, 42-3 McLeod Ganj 369-80, 370, 12 front cover Majuli Island 620-1 accommodation 375-7 Monga, Sunjoy 790-1 Malana 350 attractions 372 monkeys 701, 716, 717, 636 malaria 1195-6 drinking 379 mosques Malda 540 festivals 375 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 193 Malpe 934 food 377-9 Adina Masjid 540 Malvan 833 internet access 372 Ahmedabad 729-31 Mamallapuram 1059-64, 1061 medical services 372 Baradwari 540 Mana Village 486 money 372 Bhopal 691-2 Manali 357-66, 358 shopping 379 Haji Ali 790-1 accommodation 360-3 tourist infomation 372 Hazratbal 290 attractions 359 travel to/from 379 Jama Masjid (Agra) 410 drinking 364 volunteering 376 Jama Masjid (Bijapur) 951 INDEX food 363-4 measures 1139, see also inside Jama Masjid (Delhi) 134, 11 internet access 357 front cover Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 423 medical services 357 meat 85 Jama Masjid (Leh) 305 money 357 media 83 Jama Masjid (Mandu) 712 shopping 364-5 medical services 1194, see also health Jama Masjid (Srinagar) 289 tourist information 359 meditation 116-17 Kashmiri 289 tours 359-60 courses 139, 174, 307, 374, 446, Katra Masjid (Mathura) 426 travel to/from 365 477, 518, 1050-1 Katra Mosque (Murshidabad) 539 travel within 366 Vipassana International Academy Kuttichira 1030 617 817 Mecca Masjid 963 Mandawa 190-1 637-42 Mosque of Dilawar Khan 711 Mandi 347-8 Mehrangarh 231 Nakhoda 514 Mandore 239 Melagarh 637 POA Mecca 617 Mandrem 887 Melkote 922 Mother Teresa 509, 514 Mandu 709-13, 710 metalwork 1157 motion sickness 1193-4 Mandvi 774-5 metric conversions, see inside front motorcycle travel 109, 1051, 1184-6 Maner 574 cover mountaineering 111-12, 301 Mangalore 930-3, 932 Mettupalayam 1111 courses 554 food 417 Minicoy Island 1038 Darjeeling 554 Mangan 606 Mirik 545-6 health 1198 Manikaran 353 631-3 Himalayan Mountaineering 630-1 Modhera 738 Institute 553 maps 1151 Mohammed, Prophet 40 Leh 307 Mapusa 872-3 Mohammed Tughlaq 43 Manali 359, 362 Mon 629 Mt Abu 226-30, 228 000 Map pages monasteries, see also gompas Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary 230 000 Photograph pages Bavikonda 974 Mt Arunachala 1070 Bon 598 Mt Everest 552 INDEX 1235

1007 1032 Index (M-N)Index Sanctuary 225 1132 Park Sanctuary 1013 1006-10, 1012-13 1031-4, Kumbalgarh Wildlife Little Rann Sanctuary 775 676-7 MadhavPark National Marine National 617 Manas National Park 766 Marine Park National SanctuaryMt Abu Wildlife 230 1118-19 926 Nagarhole National Park Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary 737 618 Neyyar Dam Sanctuary 988 Nilgiri Reserve Biosphere 925-7 Reserve Biosphere Nokrek 642 689 National Park Panna Wildlife Parambikulam Reserve Tiger 716-17 Pench Sanctuary Wildlife Periyar 485 of Flowers National Park Valley Bird Sanctuary 1065 Vedantangal 748 National Park Velavadar SanctuaryWayanad Wildlife 558, 574, 1177 395 National Park Valley Pin 617 Pobitora National Park 474-5 Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary 921 201-3 Ranthambore National Park 809-10 Sanjay Gandhi National Park Sariska Reserve Tiger 188 SanctuarySasan Gir Wildlife 757-9 699 Satpura National Park Sepahijala Sanctuary Wildlife 636 665-6 Similipal National Park 559 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 266 ReserveSunderbans Tiger 534-6 ReserveTadoba-Andhari 829, 831 Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary Navratri 26 Navsari 743 Nawalgarh 191 Neermahal 637 Nehru, Jawaharlal 52, 55-6, 137 Neil Island 1134-5 Nepal border crossings 456, 499, 545, New Jalpaiguri 540-4 newspapers 83, 1139 Nicobar Island 1120-37 491 814 583-4 667-8 Bird Sanctuary 1083 Sanctuary 1108-9 185-6 (Delhi) 136 (Mumbai) 785-6 sanctuaries 99-102, 757-9 SanctuaryBadrama Wildlife 665 719-20 Bandhavgarh National Park 926 913 Bannerghatta Biological Park National Park Betla (Palamau) Bhitarkanika Sanctuary Wildlife (Kodikkarai)Calimere & Wildlife Chandaka Sanctuary Wildlife 652 SanctuaryChinnar Wildlife 1012 ReserveCorbett Tiger 487-9 Debrigarh Sanctuary Wildlife 665 Desert 248 National Park Reserve Forest Dubare 930 1012 349 HimalayanGreat National Park Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Wildlife SanctuaryJaldhapara Wildlife 544 Kalatop Sanctuary Wildlife 386 724 Kanger National Park Valley Kanha 717-19 National Park Karanji 917 Lake Park Nature Kaziranga 618-19 National Park Keoladeo Ghana National Park Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary 766 1005 Nagaur 239 Nagaur 355-7 Naggar Nagpur 829-31 Nahan 343 Naini Lake 490 Nainital 489-94, Nakki Lake 226 Nako 397 581-2 596 Nanak Jayanti 27 Nandi Hills 914 Narayan, Jaya Prakash 56 841 Narial Purnima Narkanda 342 Narmada River 102 Nasik 813-16, Nathu La 595 National Gallery of Modern Art National Gallery of Modern Art National Museum136 (Delhi) national parks, reserves & wildlife 8 5 , 792 780-1 418 1010 466-7 786 915 796 784 1144 799-800, 802-3, 798-9, Rajasthani 238 courses 174, 197, 218, 446, 478, history 778-9 internet access 779-82 itineraries 785 medical services 782 money 782 shopping 804-5 tourist information 783 tours 794 travel to/from 805-7 travel within 807-9 volunteering 1168 walking tour 792-3, Fort 786-8, 795, 797, Area accommodation 794-8 accommodation activities 791-2 attractions 783-91 Central Suburbs 795-6, 797-8, 801, 793-4 children Churchgate 797, 800 Colaba 783-5, 794-5, 796-7, courses 793 drinking 801-3 entertainment 803-4 779 festivals food 798-801, musical instruments 155-6, 1157 49 Muslim League Mussoorie 465-9, 914-21, Mysore Munnar 1010-12, Murshidabad 539 Murud 831-2 music 75-6 Naag Panchami 26 Naag Panchami Nabadwip 539 Nadir Shah 46 627, 628, 629 627-30 Nagarjunakonda 970 N Mudumalai National Park 1118-19 Mudumalai National Park Mughal 44-6, 48-9 empire Muharram 27 Mulbekh 295-6 Mumbai 777-810, Mt Harriet 1132 Mt Katao 606 Mt Khangchendzonga 552, 1236 Index (N-P)

Nicobarese 1123 Amber 182 Palampur 382 nilgai 757, 831 Baz Bahadur 712 Palitana 748-9 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 925-7 Bengaluru 904 Pallava empire 42 Nilgiri Hills 1105 Bhuj 770 Palolem 895-7, 895 Nilgiri tahr 1012 Bundi 204 864-70, 865 Nilgiri tribes 1104, 1113, 1115 Chowmahalla 961 Pandua 540 Nimatighat 620 City (Alwar) 187 Pang 329 Nimmu 320 City (Jaipur) 172 Pangong Tso 328 Nohkalikai Falls 641 City (Kota) 207 Panjim, see Panaji Norbulingka Institute 381 City (Udaipur) 216 panthers 926, 1013, 1108, 1118 Norgay, Tenzing 553 Fateh Prakash 211 Paonta Sahib 343 Northeast States 609-42, 610 Fatehpur Sikri 423, 424 papier-mâché 1158 festivals 612 Hawa Mahal 169, 172 paragliding 109-10 food 416-17, 417 Hazarduari 539 Himachal Pradesh 331 itineraries 33 Islamnagar 694 Manali 362 permits 610-11 Jagmandir 216 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary safety 611 Jahaz Mahal 711 1013 nuclear power 55 Jai Vilas 674 Parasnath 584 Nurla 322 Jambughoda 742 parks & gardens Jehangir Mahal 677 Botanical Gardens (Kolkata) 515 O Juna Mahal 226 Botanical Gardens (Ooty) 1115 observatories Kaliadeh 704 Brindavan Gardens 922 Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 137 Karenghar 622 Chambal Gardens 208 Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 172 Kinnaur Kalachakra Celestial Chhattar Bilas Gardens 208 Vedh Shala (Observatory) 703-4 Palace 345 Cubbon Park 905 Om symbol 69 Krishnapuram 999 Lalbagh Botanical Gardens 904 Omkareshwar 707-8 Lakhota 765 Lloyd Botanical Gardens 554 INDEX Onge 1123 Lal Bagh 705 Mandore 239 Onkadelli 664 Lalgarh 249 Mehtab Bagh 409 Ooty 1112-18, 1114 Laxmi Vilas 740 Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens 265 Orchha 677-80, 678 Leh 303 Parsi community 789 Orissa 643-68, 644 Maharaja 916 Parsurampura 191-2 festivals 646 Man Singh 672-4 Partition 50, 52-3 food 419 Marble 517 Parur 1027 volunteering 1168 Mattancherry 1015 Parvati Valley 350 Osiyan 239 Mehrangarh 231 Pashmina Cooperative Society 328 oud 1160 Neermahal 637 Pasighat 625 Nil Kanth 712 passports 1173 P Padam 343 Patan 738 Pabbar Valley 342 Padmanabhapuram 992-3 Pateti 26 Pachmarhi 699-702, 700 Padmini’s Palace 211 Pathankot 276 601 Puthe Maliga Palace Museum 985 Patiala 267-8 Padum 297 Raj Mahal 677 Patil, Pratibha 57 Pahalgam 286 Rana Kumbha 211 Patna 568-73, 569 painting 79-80, 1157-8 Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace) 217 948-9 courses 218 848 Pattan Valley 391 Pakistan border crossings 275-6, Stok 318 Pavagadh 741-2 1177-8 Suraj Mahl 186 Pawapuri 582 palaces Taragarh 383 Pelling 598-600, 599 Akbar’s Palace 193 Tipu Sultan 906 Pench Tiger Reserve 716-17 Akhand Chandi 387 Tirumalai Nayak 1097 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 1006-10, Ujjayanta 635 1007 000 Map pages Umaid Bhawan 233 permits 1163-4 000 Photograph pages Vijay Vilas 774 Andaman Islands 1122-4 Palampet 972 Gujarat 727 INDEX 1237

476 495 Index (P-S) Index festivals 1145 festivals Kashmir 283 350 Kullu Valley Northeast States 611 350 Parvati Valley swimming 1146 trekking 113, 1147 women travellers 1171 books 69-70, 71 food 91 789 community Parsi coral 1122 diving 110 Ladakh 310 312 Leh GanjMcLeod 377 shopping 1155 trekking 114-15, 317 Karnataka 940 Manali 363 Nainital 490 S travel safe Sagar Island 536-7 Sagnam 395 Sai Baba 817, 979 Raneh Falls 689 Raneh Falls Rangdum 296 Ranikhet 494-5, 201-3 Ranthambore Park National Raptan, 536 Niranjan 26 (Car Festival) Rath Yatra Ratnagiri 668, 833 Ravangla (Rabongla) 597-8 Raxaul 574-5 Rayagada 662-3 violence 1145 rebel Red Fort (Lal Qila) 129-34 345-6 Rekong Peo 66-73 religion 97 reptiles travel responsible 88-9 restaurants Rewalsar Lake 348-9 rhinos 617, 618-19 rice 84 Rishikesh 475-82, river rafting 110-11, 679 rock climbing 111-12 Rohet 239 Rohtang La 390 Ross Island 1131-2 Rumtek 594-5 Rushikulya 660 843 255 1093 1072 166 197 769 847 414 653 Kollam see Himachal Pradesh 331 307 Leh Manali 362 Rishikesh 478 Uttarakhand 459 Adivasis 168 167 festivals food 414-15 itineraries 29 volunteering 1169 26 festivals 257 festivals food 414, Pushkar Camel Fair 199, 843, Pushkar Camel Fair Q Quilon, Quit India campaign 50, 54 163-4 R Rabdentse 601 rabies 1196 radio 83, 1139 rafting Raghurajpur 657 Raipur 720-1 Raj Ghat 134 474-5 Rajaji National Park Rajasthan 165-253, Rajgir 580-1 768-70, Rajputs 40, 46-7 Raksha Bandhan (Narial Purnima) Ralang 598 Ramadan 26, 843 Ramanavami 26 Ramayana 70 Rambha 660 Rameswaram 1092-4, Ramgarh 189 Rampur 343-4 Ranakpur 225 Ranchi 582-3 Puri 652-7, Puri Pushkar 195-201, Puttaparthi 979 pythons 97 poverty 65 prehistoric 695 paintings 40 Prophet Mohammed prostitution 65 1071-8, Puducherry 846-52, Pune 414, 254-76, 266-76, Punjab 1128 763 Puducherry see Guwahati 613-14 Kaza 395 Kolkata 506 Ladakh 300 Lakshadweep 1037 Mizoram 632 Nicobar Island 1122-4 Northeast States 610-11 Shimla 337 Sikkim 558, 587 1042 Nadu Tamil 331 Bodhgaya 576 Dargah 193 Deshnok 253 Dwarka 764 Gaya 575 Hajo 616-17 Junagadh 760 Khuldabad 822 Namchi 596 Nasik 814 Omkareshwar 707-8 652 Puri Rajgir 580 Shatrunjaya 748 Sivagiri Mutt 994 976-8 Tirumala 1069-71 Tiruvannamalai Udupi 934 Phari 595 Phey 319 Phodong 606 phone codes 1162-3 photography 1145, 1153 Phyang 319 1080-1 Pichavaram pilgrimages 63 395 National Park Valley Pin 652 Pipli planning 20-5 plants 98-9 617 Pobitora National Park Pokaran 248-9 politics 57 polo 82 Ponda 872 Pondicherry, Pongal 27, 839, 1043 population 66 Porbandar 762-4, Port Blair 1127-31, Portuguese rule 47 postal services 1153-4 pottery 1154-5 1238 Index (S-T)

Salaam Baalak Trust 141 Shillong 637-40, 638 Spiti 392-7 Sam Sand Dunes 248 Shimla 334-41, 336-7 sport 81-3 Sambalpur 665 Shingha Chingyuo 630 squirrel 1012 sambars 926, 1006, 1013 Shiva 68 Sravanabelagola 924-5 Samthar Plateau 565 Shivaji 46 Sri Kalahasti 978-9 Sanchi 695-8, 696 Shivaratri 27 Sri Sathya Sai Baba 817, 979 sandalwood 99 Shivpuri 676-7 Srinagar 286-94, 288 Sangla 344-5 Shompen 1123 Srirangapatnam 921-2 Sangla Valley 344 shopping 1154-61 Stakna 327 Sanjan 743 language 1205 STDs 1196 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 Purnima 26 Stobgais 328 Sankaram 974-5 Shri Narayana Guru 994 stone carving 1154-5 Sarahan 344 Siddhartha Gautama 39 street food 89, 90 saris 63, 1158 Sidhibari 380-1 188 Sikhism 71-2 Amaravathi 976 Sarnath 453-4, 453 Sikkim 585-608, 586, 8 Chaukhandi 453 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757-9 festivals 588 Dehra Dun (Great Stupa) 463 Sasaram 576 food 416 Dhamekh Stupa 453 Satapada 659-60 itineraries 33 Kesariya 574 Satna 689 permits 558, 587 Leh 306 satras 621 volunteering 1169 Nalanda 582 745-70 Siliguri 540-4, 542 Rajgir 580 Sayla 776 silk 1158-9 Ramabhar 455 scams 179, 403, 1145-6 Similipal National Park 665-6 Sanchi 696, 697 sea turtles 97 Simla Agreement 53 Shanti Stupa 652 seafood 85 Singalila National Park 559 Vaishali 573 Secunderabad 956-70, 958 Singh, Manmohan 58 Vishwashanti Stupa 580 INDEX accommodation 964-5 Singh, Ranjit 47 Sumur 325 attractions 959-60 Sinhagad 852 Sunauli 456-7 drinking 966 Sinquerim 873-7, 874 sunburn 1199 entertainment 967 Sirpur 721 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 534-6 food 965-6 Sivasagar 621 Surajkund 266 internet access 957 Sivasamudram 922-3 Surat 742 medical services 959 skiing 112 surfing money 959 Himachal Pradesh 331 Andaman Islands 1125 shopping 967 Manali 363 health 1197 tourist information 959 Solang Nullah 367-8 Suru Valley 296 travel to/from 967-8 Uttarakhand 460 sustainable travel, see environmental travel within 968-70 skin problems 1199 issues, GreenDex Senji, see Gingee sloth bears 409, 831, 1118 Swami Vivekananda 1047, 1048-9, Sentinelese 1123 sloths 1013 1101 Sevagram 830-1 Smit 640 sweets 86, 415 Shah Jahan 45 snakes 97, 848 synagogues Shah, Tahir 24 snorkelling 109 BethEl Synagogue 514 Shakti 328 Andaman Islands 1124-5 Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue 786 Sham 320 snow boarding 112 Moghan David Synagogue 514 Shantiniketan 538-9 Manali 363 Pardesi Synagogue 1015 shawls 356 Solang Nullah 367-8 Parur 1027 Shekhawati 189-92, 189 solo travellers 1161 Sher Shah 44 Somnath 755-7 T Shey 326 Somnathpur 922 Tabo 395-6 Sonamarg 294 Tagore, Rabindranath 78, 517 000 Map pages Sonepur 574 45, 404-7, 4 000 Photograph pages spas 117 Taj Mahal Palace & Tower 785 spices 84, 872, 928, 1008, 1160 Takthog 328 INDEX 1239 984

crafts 837 , 1086 see also 1028 8 Index (T)Index 1022 Around 589 Government in Exile 373 553 Norbulingka Institute 381 601 Padmasambhava permits 331 Secretariat of the Tibetan Museum 372-3 Tibet exiles 378 Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre Tibetan 372 Tsuglagkhang Amchi 375 Bylakuppe 930 Dalai Lama 372 & Namgyal Institute of Tibetology Sree Vallabha 1006 Vallabha Sree Sri Chamundeswari 916 Sri Durgiana 271 Sri Nanak Ji Gurdwara 353 Guru Sri 978 Kalahasteeswara Temple Sri Krishna 1029 Sri Meenakshi 1095-7 985 Sri Padmanabhaswamy Sri Ranganathaswamy 921 Sun (Konark) 657-8 Sun (Modhera) 738 746 Takhteshwar 1042 Nadu Tamil 463 Tapkeshwar of Somnath 755 Temple Thyagararajaswami 1087 Trimbakeshwar 817 Sundari Mandir 637 1027 Kshetram Vadakkunathan 1064-5 Vedagirishvara 979 Veerbhadra Venkateshwara 977 Virupaksha 938-9 Vishwanath 444 Vittala 940 Yogini 652 Thotlakonda 974 Thrissur 1027-9, theft 1146-7 theyyam Thiksey 326 Thiruvananthapuram 983-8, Tibet tempos 1182-3 tennis 81-2 textiles 1159-60, 617-18 Tezpur Thanggu 608 1084-7, Thar Desert 247, 10 , 270 824 837 635, 636 (Chamba) 386 (Rajgir) 581 Ramappa 972 Ramtek 830 1060 Shore Shri Govindajee Mandir 630 Hadimba 359 Hoysaleswara 924 Jagannath (Koraput) 664 Jagannath (Ranchi) 582 Jagannath Mandir (Agartala) Jagannath Mandir 654 (Puri) Jagdish 217 Jalakanteshwara 1069 Janardhana 994 Kailasa 823 Kali 515 Kamakhya Mandir 614 Kapaleeshwarar 1049 Karni Mata 253 Kesava Deo 426 Keshava 922 Krishna 934 Kumari Amman 1100 Lakshmi Narayan (Birla Mandir) 137 Complex Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex Lakshmi Narayan Temple Lakulisha 741 Laxman 721 Mahabodhi 576 Mahalaxmi 790 Mahaparinirvana 455 Mangaladevi 1008 Mansa Devi 471 Masrur 382 Mata 271 Mathakuar 455 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar 454 194 Nasiyan (Red) Temple Nataraja 1079-80 848 Pataleshvara 436 Patalpuri Prashara 349 271 Ram Tirath Ramakrishna Mutt 1049 1093, Ramanathaswamy Temple Elephanta Island 809 Elephanta Ellora 822-5, Rathas 1060-2 Five Gandamadana Parvatham 1094 Gangotri 482 Gita 426 Golden 270-1, & see 1040 Jain temples Thanjavur see also see inside front cover

Temple) 137 Temple) Bala Hanuman 765 Balaji 183 Basheshar Mahadev 349 Belur Math 518 Bhojeshwar 694-5 Bhubaneswar 646-8 Brajeshwari Devi 381 Brihadishwara 1084 Chandi Devi 471 Channakeshava 924 Char Dham 483 Complex 321 Chhoskhor Temple Dakshineswar Kali 518 Dilwara 226 Banerjee, Rajah 547 Darjeeling 552 Kurseong 546 382 Palampur West Bengal Hills 543 individual locations Aihole 949 Akshardham (Delhi) 137 Akshardham (Gandhinagar) 738-9 Arunachaleswar 1069-70 Badami 946-7 Badrinath 486 Bagnath 498 Bahai House of Worship (Lotus festivals 1043 festivals food 420 permits 1042 volunteering 1169-70 women travellers 1171-2 also Teesta Bazaar 565 Teesta telephone services 1161-3, Talatalghar 622 Talatalghar 43-4 42, Tamerlane 1204-6 1039-119, Tamil 328 Tangtse Tanjore, tea 87, 622 Tapovan 380-1 Tapovan 662 Taptapani 383 Taragarh 833 Tarkarli 605 Tashiding 383 Tashijong 342 Tattapani Town 626 Tawang 626-7 Valley Tawang taxis 1183 temples, INDEX tombs, shrines &mausoleums tombs, shrines toilets 1140 Tiruvannamalai 1069-71 Tirupathi 976-8 Tirumala 976-8 , tipping 1152-3 Timur 42,43-4 (Tamerlane) time 1163 Tikjuk 598 97,99,536,583,651-2,1013 tiffins 799 1240 000 000 Qutb Shahi Tombs962 Qutb Shahi 666 Shrine Qadam-i-Rasool 289 Pir DastgirSahib Tombs962-3 Paigah 658-9 Nine Planets’Shrine 290 Naqshband Sahib 576 ofSherShah Mausoleum 759 Maqbara Mahabat Bagh436 Khusru Job Charnock513 409 Itimad-ud-Daulah Hussainabad Imambara430 Humayun’s Tomb135 Hoshang’s Tomb712 TakhtHar Mandir 571 Golgumbaz 949-50 193 Dargah 409 Chini-ka-Rauza 574 Chhoti Dargah 819 Bibi-Qa-Maqbara Bara Imambara430 433 Maquabara Begumka Bahu Tombs953 Bahmani Anand Bhavan436 Ahmedabad 729-31 829,831 Tadoba-Andhari Reserve 534-6 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 188 Tiger Reserve Sariska NationalParkSanjay Gandhi NationalParkRanthambore 201-3 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary Pench 716-17 Tiger Reserve 925-7 Biosphere Reserve Nilgiri NationalParkManas 617 NationalPark 717-19 Kanha 487-9 Corbett Tiger Reserve NationalParkBandhavgarh 719-20 Map pages Map Photograph pages 809-10 1006-10,

Index (T-V) see 1007 Trichy trekking 112-13 trekking trees 98-9 travel withinIndia1178-90 travel to/fromIndia1173-8 travellers cheques1153 Tranquebar 1083 train travel1187-90 touts 1147 tours 1185,1186 information1163 tourist Zanskar 298 Zanskar Yuksom toTashiding Trek 604 Yamunotri Temple Trek 483 1031-4 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 459 Uttarakhand Udaipur 218 Trek 559-60, Singalila Ridge 588,591 Sikkim safety 113,1147 478 Rishikesh responsible travel317 Pin-Parvati Valley Trek 352 Pindari GlacierTrek 499 Pachmarhi 701 Orchha 679 Ooty 1115 914 Nandi Hills Trek 487 Sanctuary Nanda Devi Nainital 490 Naggar 356 Mt Abu227 Monastery Loop601-5 GlacierTrek 499-500 Milam toBharmour381 McLeod Ganj 374 McLeod Ganj 363 Manali Leh 307 315 Ladakh PassKuari 486-7 1105 Kodaikanal Trek 603 Khangchendzonga TempleKedarnath Trek 483 562 Kalimpong Joshimath 484 Pradesh331, 333 Himachal Hem KundTrek 485 DunValley TrekHar ki 483 Hamta Pass Trek 367 TempleGarhwal Treks 482 Tomb ofTansen 674-5 Taj 404 Mahal Bagh Samadhi SwamijiMaharaj Rozabal 289 Darbar463 Rai Ram 410 559 Trichur, Trichur, typhoid 1196 83,1139 TV 660,661,724,867 turtles Tura 642 Tughlaqabad 161-3 tuberculosis 1196 Tsuglagkhang 372 Tsopta 608 Tsomgo (ChanguTsangu) 595 Lake Tso 327 Moriri Tso 329 Kar Trivandrum, 633-7 Tripura 1026 Tripunithura 1087-92, Trichy Udhagamandalam, 668 Udayagiri 636 Udaipur (Tripura) 213-24, Udaipur (Rajasthan) U Uttarkashi 482 Uttarkashi 458-500, Uttarakhand Udipi, Vagator 885-7, Vadodara 739-41, vaccinations 1192-3 V Pradesh398-457, Uttar Upshi 329 Ujjain 702-4, Udvada 743 Udupi 934 Thiruvananthapuram travel within224 travel to/from223-4 tours 218 information215 tourist shopping 223 money 215 internet access213 food 222-3 223 entertainment 223 drinking courses 218 215-18 attractions accommodation 219-22 volunteering 1170 volunteering food 415 festivals 461 1170 volunteering food 415 festivals 403 see see Udupi Thrissur see 703 886 1090 739 see Ooty 460 400-1 214 INDEX 1241

603 Index (V-Z)Index Yoga Institute 849 Dhanwantari Ashram 988 848 Rishikesh 477 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Udaipur 218 446 Varanasi 300 festivals trekking 298 Darjeeling 553 Junagadh 761 Katraj & Zoo Snake Park Kolkata 516 430 Lucknow Nainital 490 Nandankanan 651-2 Thiruvananthapuram 983-5 Delhi 139 1043 479, festivals Goa 861, 879 1111 Isha Yoga Center Khajuraho 686 307 Leh GanjMcLeod 374 Mumbai 793 918 Mysore 1074-5 Puducherry Pushkar 197 Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yuksom 602, Yuksom 607 Valley Yumthang Z Zainabad 775 Zangla 298 Zanskar 296-8 Zingchen 319 624 Valley zoos zorbing 113, 363 Zoroastrianism 73, 789 Y Prasad 571 Lalu Yadav, yoga 117-18 1144 yoga courses 118, 541 , 1105 national parks, 533 see internet resources inside front cover

animals, plants see see see Ranthambore National Park 201 Ranthambore National Park 809-10 Sanjay Gandhi National Park SanctuarySasan Gir Wildlife 757 701 Satpura National Park reserves sanctuaries wildlife & festivals 535 festivals food 416 volunteering 1170 Darjeeling 554 Bazaar 565 Teesta Goa 861, 877 Mumbai 792 Goa 877 1032 McLeod GanjMcLeod 376 445 Varanasi wildlife conservationwildlife 105, 115 safariswildlife sanctuaries,wildlife wildlife-watching 105-8 wine 816 wolves 97, 225 women in India 73-4 women travellers 1161, 1199, 1170-2 woodcarving 1160 WWI 50 1103-19, white-water rafting wild boars 1006, 1108, 1118 wildlife, W Wandoor 1132 Wanla 322 Warangal 970-2 water 103-4, 1197 water sports 109 water sports SanctuaryWayanad Wildlife 1031-4, weather 20-1, 1142, 1143 weaving 768 websites, weights, West Bengal 532-65, Vrindavan 427-8 7 , 444 , 442 1068 994 756 1182-3 485 accommodation 447-9 accommodation attractions 441-5 drinking 450-1 emergency 440 entertainment 450-1 food 449-50 ghats 441-57 internet access 441 medical services 441 money 441 shopping 451-7 tourist information 441 tours 447 travel to/from 451-2 travel within 452 volunteering 445 Goa 875 307 Leh Madhya Pradesh 686 Varanasi 440-52, 440-52, Varanasi Vailankanni 1083 573-4 Vaishali Devi 287 Vaishno Atal Behari 57 Vajpayee, National Park of Flowers Valley Varkala 993-6, 27 Panchami Vasant 366-7 Vashisht Bird Sanctuary 1065 Vedantangal vegetables 85 vegetarian travellers 90 1068-9, Vellore Veraval 755, Veraval Victoria Memorial508 Vidisha 698-9 42, 45 Vijayanagar empire Vijayawada 975-6 vikrams Viper Island 1132 Virupaksha, H 945 Visakhapatnam 972-4 visas 1164-5 Vishnu 68 volunteering 1165-70 1242 GreenDex GREENDEX

The following organisations have been selected by our authors because they demonstrate a com- mitment to sustainability. We’ve selected restaurants that have an organic focus or refill water bot- tles with safe, drinkable water and use local produce, funnelling profits back into the community. We’ve listed businesses and not-for-profits for diverse reasons: some use solar power and have composting toilets; others support refugees by providing them with employment or reinvest profits into local groups. Ecolodges and trekking organisations that take care of the natural environment and minimise our impact on it are also mentioned here. For more green tips, see Responsible Trekking (p114). If you think we’ve omitted someone here, email us at www.lonelyplanet.com/contact. For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

GOA KARNATAKA shopping accommodation accommodation Anokhi 180 Backwoods Camp 872 Cicada Kabini 926 Fabindia 180 activities Lodge 926 Barracuda Diving 877 Kadkani 929 SIKKIM Yoga Magic 883 Rainforest Retreat 929 accommodation attractions ecotourism Dungmali Guest House 596 Savoi Plantation 872 Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd Hidden Forest 592 environmental organisations 900 Goa Foundation 867 Kishkinda Trust 944 TAMIL NADU food accommodation Blue Planet 897 KERALA Cardamom House 1108 volunteering accommodation Raintree 1052 El Shaddai 875 Bethsaida Hermitage 992 crafts Goa Animal Welfare Trust Cottage Crafts 1108 875 KOLKATA Mr Kathirval 1087 International Animal Rescue ecotourism environmental organisations 875 Help Tourism 507 Keystone Foundation 1112 shopping shopping HARYANA & PUNJAB Ankur Kala 528 Fabindia 1077 accommodation Ashalayam 528 Green Shop 1117 Mrs Bhandari’s Guest House 273 Women’s Friendly Society 528 Kasha ki Aasha 1077 wildlife conservation HIMACHAL PRADESH MADHYA PRADESH & Crocodile Bank 1059 accommodation CHHATTISGARH Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Ecosphere 393 crafts Wildlife Sanctuary shopping Saathi 724 1108 Bhuttico 356 volunteering Norbulingka Institute 381 Sambhavna Trust 691 Stitches of Tibet 379 accommodation Tibetan Handicrafts Cooperative ORISSA Uma Guesthouse 447 Centre 379 ecotourism food volunteering Grass Routes Journeys 655 Brown Bread Bakery 450 Gu Chu Sum 376 volunteering Lha 376 RAJASTHAN Sankat Mochan Foundation Tibetan Children’s Village 373 accommodation 446 Tibetan Welfare Office 376 Apani Dhani 191 wildlife conservation Volunteer Tibet 376 Shakhawati Guest House 191 Wildlife SOS 409 GREENDEX 1243

Greendex Lochan Tea Limited 543 Lochan Tea Estate 543 Makaibari Tea Help Tourism 535 Hayden Hall 557 Trade Shop 557 Fair & Leaf Life courses ecotourism shopping Basudha Farm 538 Basudha Farm Henry Island 537 538 Karmi Farm Panchachuli Weavers Factory 496 Weavers Factory Panchachuli Sarv Handicraft Emporium 464 WEST BENGAL accommodation GreenDex GreenDex

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