VOLUME 450 December 2014 WE GO WHERE THE WIND BLOWS BAJA HA-HA XXI RECAP — With a 20-year legacy of San Di- ego-to-Cabo rallies to draw from, you might think that every aspect of the like-minded adventurers. — in order to make it easier, 21st annual Baja Ha-Ha would be to- It's mildly ironic that this not harder, for North Amer- tally predictable. Not so. Although con- year's unscripted schedule ican mariners to visit Mexi- sidered a great success by the vast ma- changes were actually more can waters. In fact, our part- jority of its 525 participants, this year's similar to 'typical cruising' than ners at Mexico Tourism and fl eet faced a unique set of challenges — showing up at pre-specifi ed lo- representatives from several cations on a strict Ha-Ha sponsors have been timetable would be. Af- working tirelessly to stream- ter all, as any experi- line these procedures. But enced voyager will tell even now, despite the un- you, the cruising life, derstandable angst of some while often glorious fi rst-timers, clearing in and and life-affi rming, is securing visas was largely all about coping with "no problema" when the fl eet a wide variety of chal- The youngest — and arrived at the Cape. lenges — and it's rare cutest — pirate was to arrive anywhere on two-year-old Grace a precise schedule. In Walter of 'Reprieve'. As you might imagine, that regard, you might say the prior to the start of this 750-mile off- 2014 Ha-Ha was more like real shore cruise there's always an under- cruising than any before. current of anxiety among the neophyte cruisers in the fl eet. One of the best ways we know to lighten their mood is One thing that has been to encourage them to dress up in goofy consistent since the fi rst Ha- costumes and join the revelry of the Ha- Ha in 1994 is that fl eets have Ha's annual Costume Kickoff Party — always been made up of a wide staged the afternoon before the start of variety of sailing craft — from Leg One. Think about it: How stressed ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE / ANDY EXCEPT AS NOTED ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE immaculately kept yachts to out can you possibly be when you're Over the years we've seen costumes based no-frills plastic classics — and have dressed up like a jellyfi sh, a swash- on all sorts of themes, but this group of "lab been crewed by sailors of vastly dif- buckling pirate, or a "lab experiment experiments gone wrong was a fi rst. ferent backgrounds. As you may have gone wrong?" (See photo left.) Works ev- not the least of which was what to do read in our three installments of fl eet ery time to lighten the mood and infuse about a weak but foreboding late-sea- profi les (September-November issues), a spirit of frivolity into the entire fl eet. son hurricane named Vance. the range of professions within the fl eet As in years past the fi esta was gen- As you'll read below, in the interest included fi refi ghters, airline pilots, sur- erously cohosted by West Marine on the of safety the Ha-Ha's time-tested itiner- geons, park rangers, engineers, teach- grounds of their Shelter Island 'fl agship' ary had to be altered for the fi rst time ers, self-described boat bums and even mega-store. This year, in addition to the ever. But doing so didn't keep the event a submarine operator. But they all usual assortment of swaggering bucca- from achieving its primary goals: to in- shared the same dreams of cruising the neers and fl irtatious wenches, Austin troduce many new cruisers to the cruis- sunny latitudes of Mexico. Powers and his entourage made a spe- ing lifestyle, while giving veteran Mexi- We were pleasantly surprised that cial appearance. There was also a bevy co travelers a new offshore adventure — 171 boats signed up this year — up 5% of jailbirds, a pride of snarling chee- and acquainting them with a new set of from 2013 and 15% from 2012 — espe- tahs, a band of scraggly haired hippies, cially because during the months lead- and a tribe of Maori warriors, as well as Dignitaries and local media pros recorded the fl eet's departure from the deck of the 'Dolphin'. ing up to the October 27 start there King Neptune and his mermaid lover. This year, even CNN caught the action. was lots of confusion about new on- Upon entering the venue, each cap- line immigration tain was given a swag bag fi lled with and yacht im- hats, T-shirts, and other lo- port (TIP) proce- goed souvenirs. Meanwhile, dures. As we've local caterers served crews often pointed a Mexican 'tune-up' lunch, out, though, de- washed down with cool liba- spite there still tions from the bar. being some bugs After the costume contest to work out of — fl amboyantly emceed by two Mexican gov- West Marine's own Captain ernment web- Ron — the excitement wound sites, these new down around 4 p.m. in or- resources have der to give every crew plen- been developed ty of time to make last-minute — and will con- purchases and preparations, tinue to improve and to allow everyone a good RALPH PACE THE ONE-LEGGED HA-HA night's sleep prior to the next morning's 11 a.m. start. 360-mile leg to Bahia Tortugas. Their boats were as ready as they'd ever be, the sun was shining through patchy Ever since Ha-Ha numero uno, the The costume party put everyone in a lightheart- cloud cover. There was only one thing rally has always started from San Di- ed mood. But we're pretty sure West Marine's missing: wind. Fall mornings are often ego, but it wasn't until about fi ve years Captain Ron had the most fun of all. windless in San Diego, but during past ago that members of the San Diego Port Remedios Gomez. Referencing Cabo's Ha-Has more often than not the breeze Tenants Association encouraged us to recent battering by Hurricane Odile, has fi lled in right around 11 a.m. No put on a little show as we made our Gomez said, "The Baja Ha-Ha sends an such luck this year, though; there was exit for Mexican waters. So we cooked important message that Cabo is ready barely a zephyr. up the idea to parade the fl eet through and able to welcome all the cruisers However, one of the great things and other tourists." At precisely 10 a.m. about a rally like the Ha-Ha, as opposed Coast Guard Captain Jonathan Spaner to a serious race, is that entrants can How stressed out can you shouldered the San Diego YC's offi cial run their engines whenever they want. America's Cup shotgun and hailed the So the Rally Committee's long-estab- possibly be when Ha-Ha'ers with a celebratory blast. lished solution to light air is to proclaim you're dressed up As the fl eet motorsailed out the chan- a 'rolling start', whereby every boat can nel to the harbor entrance, the pre-start motor down the rhumbline at six knots like a jellyfi sh? roll call revealed that 131 were rarin' to without penalty until the breeze fi lls in go, while several others — as is typical and the leg is offi cially started. San Diego Harbor on its way out to the — would be late starters because they starting line, just outside the bay. By needed to make last-minute repairs or now, it's become a tradition for local TV, purchases. Several others would start Throughout that fi rst day and radio and print journalists to get out on from Ensenada, 60 miles south of the night, winds remained uncharacteristi- the water aboard the sportfi shing ves- border. cally light, fl uky and frustrating. Dur- sel Dolphin to record the fun. This year Reminiscent of the old saying, "all ing the afternoon and early evening, there was even a crew from CNN who, dressed up and nowhere to go," fl eet though, many boats with light-air spin- we're told, aired the spectacle nation- members were totally psyched for the nakers got in some decent sailing, but ally. Also aboard to show their support the usual northwesterly never really were Alejandro Santander of Mexico Somehow the wind gods didn't get the message fi lled in along the rhumbline, although Tourism and Consul General of Mexico that we needed some breeze, but the fl eet was sizeable swells hinted that there was thrilled to be heading south nonetheless. BAJA HA-HA XXI RECAP — probably more wind to be found farther offshore. If there was a silver lining, it was that the light air gave nervous simply took it in stride. On the Wednes- ic who said he caught a dorado longer fi rst-timers a very mellow intro to off- day morning net, lots of boats proud- than his 10-year-old son Porter is tall. shore cruising — plus, there was min- ly reported catching big dorado (mahi- Aboard the Oregon-based Hans Chris- imal gear breakage and everyone was tian 38 Penelope, Peter Gierga report- getting plenty of nap time. With most ed: "We hooked up 14 times and land- boats motorsailing, the fl eet was more He reported catching a ed 7 dorado in an hour and a half." tightly packed than ever, so many crews Buck Reynolds of the trawler Sea-Esta had the shared experience of watching dorado longer than his trumped that tale with his own fi sh sto- several pods of whales cavorting near ry: "We had to stop, there were so many the uninhabited Coronado Islands and 10-year-old son.