3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

2011­2012 Challenger UPDATE!

Note: Looks now that the factory has made a change on the OEM lug nut size for this model year. The thread and taper are the same but the nut size has changed from 21 MM to 22 MM. Take note that a 21 MM six point socket will not fit and you are now required to use a 22 MM six point socket.

Alternative Lug Nut = Gorilla.

For those who want an alternative to OEM lugs, the next best thing or to many a better option is GORILLA lugs.

Direct OEM Stock replacement (2008­2010): Use 21MM lug wrench! For later model years (2011­2012) you will need to go a size larger with 22MM.

14mm x 1.5mm conical seat, Bulge, 60 deg. Seat, set of 4, $ 7.39 Size Std closed end, 5 sets needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR­91147/

Large/deep OEM stock replacement:

14mm x 1.5mm conical seat, Bulge, 60 deg. Seat, set of 4, $10.49 Size XL – Large Set, 5 sets needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR­91147XL/

Alternate vendor/source Aftermarket Replacement Lugnuts; Gorilla

For OEM Dodge rims ­ yes. Research/Google these item numbers:

Gorilla Automotive 61147BCH Black Chrome Acorn Bulge Lug Nut (14mm x 1.50 Thread Size)

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also; Amazon.com: Gorilla Lug – 91147B­20 (Acorn Bulge/60 deg.)

If you need spec's or want reference Gorilla lug nut documentation: Gorilla Lug DOC link: http://www.gorilla­auto.com/pdf/GAG10.pdf

Have Classic Wheels? Need wheel locks? Exposed tapered lug wheel lock kit #82210879 (Chrysler)

Again, 2011­2012 Challenger UPDATE!

Note: Looks now that the factory has made a change on the OEM lug nut size for this model year. The thread and taper are the same but the nut size has changed from 21 MM to 22 MM. Take note that a 21 MM six point socket will not fit and you are required to use a 22 MM six point socket.

Tip:77 How can I remove the factory stripes on my R/T?

You can use a hair dryer on a warm day and remove decal slowly. Afterward clean and hand wax out any residue that remains. It came out great on my black R/T. If your stripes have been on a while and you've seen a lot of sun, you may need to take additional steps to tackle fading issues depending on the color?

Goo Gone and other 3M type adhesive removers may aid on removing any residual adhesive.

Tip:78 DODGE Acronyms Glossary!

MOPAR = Motor Parts or Chrysler Corporation Motor Parts Division SE = Standard Edition­Base Trim Level on the Challenger RT or R/T = Road and Track­ Mid Trim Level on the Challenger SRT (Street and Racing Technology) Top Trim on the Challenger

Acronym Glossary

A/C Air Conditioning AAT Ambient Air Temperature ABM Antilock Brake Module ABS Antilock Brake System ACC Adaptive Cruise Control ACT Actuator AFLS Adaptive Front Lighting System AHBM Automatic High Beam Module AHLM Automatic Headlamp Leveling Module AHM Auxiliary Heater Module ALS Active lighting system (lights follow steering) AMP Amplifier APM Adjustable Pedal Module APPS Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor APS Adjustable Pedals System ASCM Air Suspension Control Module ASD Auto Shut Down ASBS Automatic Sway Bar System file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 40/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks AT Automatic Transmission­Rear Wheel Drive ATC Automatic Temperature Control ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid ATX Automatic Transmission­Front Wheel Drive AWD All Wheel Drive AZC Automatic Zone Control BARO Barometric BCM Body Control Module BPS Bladder Pressure Sensor BSM Blind Spot Module BTS Belt Tension Sensor BTSI Brake Transmission Shift Interlock BUX Built­Up Export CAB Controller Antilock Brake CAN Controller Area Network CAN IHS Controller Area Network ­ Interior High Speed CCD Chrysler Collision Detection CCN Cabin Compartment Node CGW Central Gateway CHMSL Center high mount stop lamp CKP Crank Position Sensor CKT Circuit CMP Camshaft Position Sensor CMTC Compass/Mini­Trip Computer CPA Connector Positive Assurance CTM Compass Temperature Module CVI Clutch Volume Index DAB Driver Airbag DC Direct Current DCHA Diesel Cabin Heater Assist DDM Driver Door Module DEF Diesel Exhaust Fluid DISP Display DLC Data Link Connector DMFL Door Module Front Left DMFR Door Module Front Right DMRL Door Module Rear Left DMRR Door Module Rear Right DOHC Dual Over Head Cam DR Door DRBIII Diagnostic Readout Box, 3rd Generation DRV Driver DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code DTCM Drivetrain Control Module EATX Electronic Automatic Transaxle EBL Electric Back Lite (Rear Window Defogger) ECM Engine Control Module (Diesel) ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor EGR Exhaust Gas Re­Circulation EMCC Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch EOM Electronic Overhead Module EPS Electric Power Steering ESM Electronic Shift Module ETC Electronic Throttle Control ETS Evaporator Temperature Sensor EVBP Electronic Variable Brake Proportioning EVIC Electronic Vehicle Information Center FCM Front Control Module FCV Flow Control Valve FDCM Final Drive Control Module FEMCC Full Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch FSM Folding Seat Module GCC Gulf Coast Countries GEN Generator GPEC Global Powertrain Engine Controller HCU Hydraulic Control Unit HE Hall Effect HFM Hands Free Module HIDT High Intensity Discharge Transducer HSM Heated Seat Module HVAC Heater Ventilation, Air Conditioning I/C Integrated Circuit IAC Idle Air Control Motor IAT Intake/Inlet Air Temperature Sensor ICU Integrated Control Unit ICS Integrated Center Stack IOD Ignition Off Draw IP Instrument Panel IPC Instrument Panel Cluster IPM Integrated Power Module IR Infrared IRT Intelligent Recovery Timer ISS Input Speed Sensor ITBM Integrated Trailer Brake Module ITM Intrusion Transceiver Module JBLK Junction Block JTEC Jeep & Truck Engine Control Module KDB2 Keyboard Data Bus, 2nd Generation KNB Knee Blocker Airbag KS Knock Sensor LDP Leak Detection Pump LDU Lower Drive Unit file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 41/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks LED Light Emitting Diode LIN Local Interconnect Network LHD Left Hand Drive LR Low/Reverse Clutch or Pressure Switch LRSM Light Rain Sensor Module LT Left LU Lockup MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor MDS Multi Displacement System MIC Mechanical Instrument Cluster MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp MLS Multi Layer Steel MSMAPM Memory Seat/Mirror/Adjustable Pedals Module MSMD Memory Seat Module MT Manual Transmission­Rear Wheel Drive MTC Manual Temperature Control MTV Manifold Tuning Valve MTX Manual Transmission­Front Wheel Drive MUX Multiplex NAV Navigation NGC Next Generation Controller NVLD Natural Vacuum Leak Detection O2S Oxygen Sensor OAT Outside Air Temperature OBD On Board Diagnostics OBD­I On Board Diagnostic specification 1 (1991­1995) OBD­II On Board Diagnostic specification 2 (1996 and up) OCM Occupant Classification Module OCS Occupant Classification System OCSVR Occupant Classification System Verification Required OD Overdrive Clutch or Pressure Switch ODO Odometer ORC Occupant Restraint Controller OSS Output Speed Sensor P/M Pump Motor PAB Passenger Airbag PASS Passenger PCI Programmable Communication Interface PCM Powertrain Control Module PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation PDC Power Distribution Center PDM Passenger Door Module PEM Passive Entry Module PEMCC Partial Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch PEP Peripheral Expansion Port PLG Power Liftgate PLGM Power Liftgate Module PLU Partial Lockup PSD Power Sliding Door PSDM Power Sliding Door Module PSDML Power Sliding Door Module Left PSDMR Power Sliding Door Module Right PSM Programmable Special Module PSI Pounds Per Square Inch PTCM Power Top Control Module PTIM Police and Taxi Interface Module PTS Parktronics PWM Pulse Width Modulated PWR Power RCM Roof Control Module REV Reverse Clutch RF Radio Frequency RHD Right Hand Drive RKE Remote Keyless Entry RT Right RTV Room Temperature Vulcanizing RX Receive S/C Speed Control SAB Seat Airbag SAS Steering Angle Sensor SBEC Single Board Engine Controller SBM Switch Bank Module SBS Seat Belt Switch SBT Seat Belt Tensioner SCA Shift Cover Assembly SCM Steering Control Module SCCM Steering Column Control Module SDAR Satellite Digital Audio Receiver SDARV Satellite Digital Audio Receiver Video SKIM Sentry Key Immobilizer Module SKIS Sentry Key Immobilizer System SKREEM Sentry Key Remote Entry Module SKREES Sentry Key Remote Entry System SLPK Solenoid Pack SOHC Single Over Head Cam SOL Solenoid SRS Supplemental Restraint System SRV Short Runner Valve SSV Solenoid Switch Valve SUNR Sunroof SW Switch SWS Seat Weight Sensor file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 42/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks TCC Torque Converter Clutch TCCM Transfer Case Control Module TCM Transmission Control Module TCS Traction Control System TGW Telematics Gateway TIP Throttle Inlet Pressure TIPM Totally Integrated Power Module TIRM Traffic Information Receiver Module TM Trailer Module TP Throttle Position TPM Tire Pressure Monitor TPMS Tire Pressure Monitor System TPS Throttle Position Sensor TRD Torque Reduction TRS Transmission Range Sensor TX Transmit UD Underdrive Clutch VES Vehicle Entertainment System VFD Vacuum Fluorescent Display VPWM Variable Pulse Width Modulated VSIM Vehicle System Interface Module VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor/Signal VTSS Vehicle Theft Security System WCM Wireless Control Module WIN Wireless Ignition Node WOT Wide Open Throttle WSS Wheel Speed Sensor

Now in addition, there will be terms normally used in automotive articles and conversation that might not be familiar to you, such as "unsprung weight", so you can go to this link below to see more definitions and tips for terms used.

http://www.lateralg.org/tips/defs.htm

Tip:79 What is the Best Oil Filter for our Challenger?

Well, there are a lot of good paper element based filters on the market, Purolator PureONE, Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Purolator L14612 Classic Oil Filter, WIX, AmSOIL, and Baldwin to name a few here.

The PureONE consistently performs at the top when it comes to filtering capability. The paper/fiber element has more filtering material and surface area than other filters and internal construction is very good. There are some concerns about oil restriction because the filter element is so dense, and if you have a high performance engine you may be better off with the more expensive Mobil 1 oil filters. However, the PureONE’s excellent filtering capability, high quality construction, and affordable price make it a top overall pick.

Though I should note that Chrysler (or was it Ford) did some testing a couple of decades ago which showed that there were measurable long term wear benefits to filtering particles smaller than 9 microns, which is considerably smaller than what we normally worry about. (Pure One is nominally rated at 5 microns. Far better than any other filter of which I am aware.)

Note: AmSOIL EA files comply with ISO 4548­12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, and Purolator does not advertise adherence or compliance to ISO 4548­12.

For size reference, the average human blood cell width is approx 7­8 microns

The P1's official filtration specs:

40 Micron: 100% 30 Micron: 100% 25 Micron: 100% 20 Micron: 99.9% 15 Micron: 99.2% 10 Micron: 92.8% 5 Micron: 51.3%

Q: What is the "Best" Oil Filter available for Challenger! A: Amsoil (EA011)

This information comes straight from AMSOIL Tech Service. Amsoil has recently released a new filter for the Dodge Challenger. The part number is EAO11.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx?zo=5931

5.7L, 6.1L Hemi 2009­2012 Oil Filter 25,000‐Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11) [1] Oil Filter WIX 57899 Oil Filter Air Filter WIX 42843 Air Filter [1] Replaces the EaO48, which will still work for this vehicle

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AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters • Ea Filters designated with product code Ea15K are recommended for 15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal or severe service. • Ea Filters designated with product code EaO are recommended for 25,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal service or 15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in severe service Challenger 2008‐2012 (5.7L/6.1L) 25,000‐Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11)

AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters (EAO) have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548­12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, while competitive filters containing conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency. Again, for reference the size of a human blood cell is 7­8 microns. Although the EA048 has a very high mileage rating, I tend to change filters with oil changes to synchronize events.

Web Link to your local suppliers: http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/links/Amsoil%20Links.htm

Note Also: Look at installing a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve as part of your oil changing modifications. This is explained in detail in Tip:141 Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger

Q: How can one maximize the oil filtration to trap possible metallic particle debris (engine wear)? A: What I do is another level to the AMSOIL filtering system as I add both a magnetic oil plug, FilterMag filter magnet and a transmission pan magnet to capture all possible metallic particle shed in these lubrication systems; See also Tip:158 FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems.

Tip:80 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights Turn On

For those who have the EVIC option, you can do the following if your HID adjustments are coming on too late (too dark) for your personal preference.

1) IGN Key on. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.

2) Hold the Compass and Music note key simultaneously for about 5­7 seconds

3) Move the up arrow (or down arrow if you prefer) on the left hand side of your steering wheel. For this exercise, we will be toggle the "up" arrow

4) First stop is a digital tachometer and some other digital sensor readings.

5) Next toggle is Temp and a Chinese character.

6) Next toggle is Compass digital readings

7) Next toggle is MinL and MinR stuff. This is values associated with left and right fuel tank levels in pints (i.e. value divided by 8 = gallons)

8) Next toggle is your headlight sensor adjustment page.

On the left hand side of your steering wheel, you can adjust the HID sensitivity (when it comes on automatically) in units of 2. You adjust with the arrow that points to the right on the left side of your steering wheel.

I believe this is a lumens unit but don't hold me to that. Anyway, the factory setting in the SRT's is 180. You can only scroll upward in units of 2 until you get to 220, then the next number is 150.

From 150, keep scrolling the numbers higher until you hit 170. That setting works really well­ the HID's will come on sooner but not too soon. They'll turn on deep inside a car wash, but turn off of course at the exit.

Tip:81 Wireless USB Dodge Challenger Computer Mouse!

Dodge Challenger Series Car Mouse. Cruise the Web in Style with Road Mice's Wireless Optical Mouse with USB receiver utilizing the latest RF and optical technology. These unique mice are high performance accessories with 800­dpi resolution for enhanced accuracy and precision movement. PC and Mac compatible. Road Mice's car mouse designs have the look of a replica automobile and the functionality of the best pointing devices on the market.

The functioning headlights and smooth lines give the car a realistic look and feel. A must have for car enthusiasts and collectors. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 44/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

http://roadmice.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RM­08DGCLOXK&Category_Code=DODGE_MICE

Current colors are HEMI Orange, Grey, Deep Water Blue

Tip:82 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T: Suspension Walk Around Informational Article (Edmunds)

There's more to the 2009 Dodge Challenger than a retro body and a 5.7­liter Hemi V8. It's got a modern suspension inside those full­figured wheel wells, and there are a couple of surprises.

More great information on R/T suspension from Edmunds at:

http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2009/05/2009­dodge­challenger­rt­suspension­walkaround.html

Tip:83 Vehicle Build Date

Q: How can you tell the exact date your car was built? I don't see it anywhere on the window sticker. A: Open driver's side door and look on right of the pillar or end of the door. Look for MDH number.

The MDH # on bottom row of your door sticker stands for: Month/Day/Hour of manufacture.

Tip:84 Speedometer Verification (Extended EVIC)

Verification of the following items: Total Engine Runtime Hours (Driving) Total Engine Runtime Hours (Idle/sitting)

To gain access you need to have an extended EVIC operation.

1) The engine must not be running. Have it in accessory mode

2) Press/hold Compass and Music note for 6 seconds to gain access to extended EVIC.

3) Navigate to any area that shows the miles on the car.

4) Now press and hold the "trip reset pin" for 8­10 seconds.

A) The first item displayed is labeled Hrs.

This number is the total engine hours (it does not include accessory modes). This information is used to compare engine damage for warranty claims and graphed to show patterns or trends. Also to show if the speedometer was un­plugged to keep the mileage down.

B) Press the "trip pin again" and the next labeled item is Idle.

This is the total amount of time the engine was running and the car was not in motion. Example: Stopped in traffic, letting the car warm up etc.

Tip:85 PCM SETTINGS KEEPER

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Changing out battery, steering angle sensor and use of a "SETTINGS KEEPER" type device. Temporarily keep minimum power on vehicle 12v BUS for a short time while doing required battery or wiring maintenance.

DISCLAIMER: BATTERIES ARE VERY DANGEROUS, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

1) Go to your locate auto parts store and ask for a "settings keeper", which is a cable type adapter which uses a standard 9 volt battery and plugs into your ACTIVE 12v accessory port. (NOT THE SWITCHED ONE) . Active Plug/Port on Challenger is inside the center console.

NOTE: Do not leave doors open (dome light load) and if the trunk Lid is going to be up for a long time, remove the trunk light bulb temporarily while using settings keeper.

2) Disconnect battery (Always disconnect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) FIRST and then Positive post if changing battery out. Continue with any change in wiring, battery or whatever work is required then on connecting up new battery, hook up Positive post and then NEGATIVE LAST).

3) Reconnect ALL connections. Restore any removed trunk light bulb(s).

4) Remove/unplug "settings keeper" device.

You are done and will not have lost any settings in the computer (ECM/PCM), Radio, or other vehicle devices that are wiped when vehicle battery power is removed.

Some Vendor Links: Local Advance Auto or online at:

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=GK504&cat=GDT http://www.starsurplus.com/viewitem.lasso?i=GK504

Tip:86 Dodge Challenger Instrument Cluster "Self Test" Procedure (LX/LC)

If an individual hardwired gauge or indicator is inoperative, refer to the diagnosis and testing service information for that specific gauge or indicator. If an individual Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus message­controlled gauge or indicator is inoperative, perform the Actuator Test as follows:

PERFORM ACTUATOR TEST The instrument cluster actuator test puts the instrument cluster into its self­diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can performs a self­diagnostic test that confirms that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the indicators are capable of operating as designed.

During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry will positions each of the gauge needles at various calibration points and illuminates all of the segments in the Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) units. Successful completion of the actuator test confirms the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CAN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Front Control Module (FCM), the Transmission Control Module (TCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the Controller Anti­lock Brake (CAB), or the hardwired inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components.

Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.

2. Press and hold the odometer/trip odometer switch button.

3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button, turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position, but DO NOT START the engine.

4. Now, release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.

5. The Instrument Cluster simultaneously illuminates all of the operational segments in both VFD units, and performs a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle sweeps to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 46/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, replace the instrument cluster.

6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster automatically exits the self­diagnostic mode and returns to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test aborts if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM over the CAN data bus during the test.

7. Go back to Step #1 to repeat the test, if necessary.

Tip:87 MyGig Nav System Voice Tip

Courtesy of Spin2Win. New trick I discovered the other day. Was trying to turn up the radio while the NAV system was speaking. Found that the radio did not get louder but she did. Did some experimenting.

When the NAV system is giving directions thru the speaker(s), if you adjust the volume it shows "NAV Volume" on the radio display and does not affect the radio volume. Selecting RPT will also give you additional time to adjust the voices.

Tip:88 Mopar Electrical Connectors and Repair Kits site

All of us at one time or another will have a need to repair an electrical connector, pins, wiring or replace the connector on the harness due to some kind of damage.

It can be tough to identify the connector and ensure that the kit or part you want to order is in fact what you do need. Here is a website that will help in locating specific connectors on the Challenger frame and cross referencing the item to a MOPAR part for repair kit or replacement. Your browser will need to specific plug­ins to work properly here to view graphics.

You may need two plug‐in’s for your internet browser called Whip and SVG. Click on the links below and download the executable files to a location on your PC. Once they are downloaded double click the install files and then restart your browser. Whip is for some of the older model year graphics and SVG is for the newer model year graphics.

http://dto.vftis.com/wired/whip4.exe http://download.adobe.com/pub/adobe/magic/svgviewer/win/3.x/3.03/en/SVGView.exe

The site's FAQ link is good if you have never visited the site before and you can search on keywords like "sensor" and "coolant" and "temperature" to find specific types of connectors on the vehicle frame. For instance, I searched on "sensor" and got a list of sensor plugs and found two important connectors that have been easily damaged during "mod" sessions. Engine Coolant Temp and IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensors.

Pictures shown below are for Challenger 5.7L Hemi engine.

I can order through MOPAR parts distributors a repair kit #05014003AA to replace this IAT connector. Likewise, I can order #68064995AA to replace the Engine Coolant Sensor plug as well. If you know anything about the nomenclature of the plug you are looking for, you should be able to search and find it.

Proceed to this site below and enter Model Year and Type Frame.

http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_select.asp?return=new

Tip:89 Dodge Challenger CAN BUS Databus Communications Modules

What is a CAN BUS? Chrysler has started using a "Controller Area Network" (CAN) Bus for intercommunication between most every system in at least 6 vehicles or more vehicles:

2004+ Dodge Dakota 2005+ Chrysler 300, Dodge Magnum, Dodge Charger ( All LX line vehicles ) 2005+ Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006+ Dodge Ram Trucks 2008+ Dodge Challenger (All LC line vehicles) file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 47/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

There are 3 separate CAN buses in these vehicles.

­[CAN­C] Engine / Critical systems CAN Bus ( Engine, Transmission, Anti­Lock brakes, ESP, etc.. )

­[CAN­B] Interior Comfort CAN Bus ( Climate Control, Car Audio system, Dash cluster, EVIC, etc.. )

­[Diagnostic CAN­C] Diagnostic CAN Bus ( Has the capability of pulling service codes from the other two buses, but not directly connected to either )

In 2006, over 70% of all automobiles sold in North America will utilize CAN Bus technology. Beginning in 2008, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) requires 100% of the vehicles sold in the USA to use the CAN Bus communication protocol while the European Union has similar laws. Several new aftermarket devices have been introduced into the market that utilize the CAN Bus protocol but until now, there have been no new devices that assist the aging after market remote starter and alarm system technology.

Now there is an aftermarket module that offers remote starter and alarm connectivity to the CAN Bus communication protocol.

Here is a link to more information on Dodge Challenger CAN BUS operations below.

Challenger CAN BUS Operations (Bosch CAN Specification 2.0b)

Tip:90 The Official and Unofficial MyGIG Information Site's

Keep your MyGIG and NAV system updated with downloading, extracting and burning guide along with software installation guides and more. If you have the MYGIG/NAV system, you can download the updates here. You can get both the System software updates as well as the song database updates.

Save a day at the dealership!

http://mofv.com/mygig/

and Dodge's official site on "How MyGig works";

http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/mygig/

Note the following quick tips and MyGig hardware and software accessories;

MYGIG LOCKPICK

Description: Description: Description: MyGig_LOCKPICK.jpg

● ● ● ● A must for everyone that has a mygig. The Lockpick does so many things like allowing you to watch DVD while driving, NAV in­outs, REV Camera, rear views.

● DVD PLAY WHILE IN MOTION. ● SAT TV ON FRONT SCREEN WHILE IN MOTION (IN EQUIPPED VEHICLES). file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 48/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

● NAVIGATION ADDRESS INPUT WHILE IN MOTION (IN EQUIPPED VEHICLES). ● UNLOCK EVEN DEALER BLOCKED VIDEO ­ EVEN IF YOUR VIDEO BUTTON IS NEVER VISIBLE. THE LOCKPICK WILL EXPOSE AND UNBLOCK IT. ● TURN ON BACKUP REVERSE CAMERA INPUT FOR AFTERMARKET INSTALLATIONS. ● TURN ON FACTORY REVERSE CAMERA AT ANY TIME, EVEN IN DRIVE IF DESIRED. ● TURN ON VES (REAR ENTERTAINMENT MODE) IN NON EQUIPPED VEHICLES ­ ENABLES A VIDEO AND AUDIO INPUT FOR YOUR IPOD, IPHONE, COMPUTER, OR VIDEO GAME. ● AUX INS UNLOCKED IN VES EQUIPPED VEHICLES WHILE IN DRIVE. ● UCONNECT AND VOICE RECOGNITION ENABLED ON NAV RADIOS ­ JUST ADD A MICROPHONE. AND YOU ARE READY TO GO SEE MICROPHONE OPTION HERE. ● NO SWITCHES TO ADD ­ USES FACTORY RADIO BUTTONS. ● NO LOSS OF NAVIGATION USE WHILE UNLOCKED ­ VOICE COMMANDS AND MAP TRACKING UNAFFECTED ­ EVEN WHILE VIDEO IS VIEWED. ● ACC POWER OUTPUT PROVIDED FOR YOUR AFTERMARKET POWER NEEDS ­ TURNS OFF WHEN YOUR CAR TURNS OFF. ● PROGRAMMABLE DIP SWITCHES TO ENABLE OR TURN OFF SPECIFIC FUNCTIONS. ● NO CUT WIRES ­ 15 MINUTE INSTALL WITH PLUG AND PLAY FACTORY CONNECTORS. ● GREAT FOR LEASED CARS!! ● WORKS WITH ALL MYGIG RADIOS ­ ADVANCED UNIVERSAL COMMUNICATIONS.

● Available at http://www.coastaletech.com in the USA or http://www.dodge­downunder.com in Australia, NZ and Asia

NOTE: Also is NAVTOOL for those who want these options;

MyGig NAVTOOL

LINK: http://www.navtool.com/challenger.aspx

My Gig Lockpick (Software) Programming for 99$.

OVERVIEW: This programming service is for those who wish to have DVD movies and navigational control of the MyGIG receiver while in­motion. (Navigational control only applies to MyGIG navigation receivers) This service costs less than the physical Lockpick harness and does not require any installation by the user.

­ Great cost effective way for you gain control over your MyGIG receiver while in­motion. ­

FEATURES: ­ Works with all high speed and low speed MyGIG receivers ­ Automatically allows for DVD Play while in­motion ­ Automatically allows for Sirius® Satellite TV on front screen while in motion! (if equipped) ­ Automatically allows for navigation address input while in­motion (if equipped)

LINK: http://www.oemautopartsco.com/mygig­...ing­p­146.html

Quick Tips!

Quick Tip from Tat2dwiseguy on using USB port on MyGig Unit(s) file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 49/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Tip ­ Discovered yesterday (out of desperation) that I could use my USB data cable to charge my BlackBerry from the USB port in my RER MyGig unit! Long story short, lost my car charger and ran my battery down (taking pics and video at the SRT Experience). Needed the phone for the ride home and figured I would try plugging the cable into the provided USB port on the radio/Nav unit. Sure enough, the charge indicator lit up!

No need for expensive car chargers and extra cables! AND I can transfer images and music from the memory card on the BlackBerry!

RER 730N media system Info

The original Media Center 730N (RER) was a CD/DVD/MP3/HDD radio with 6.5" touch screen, GPS Navigation, 30GB hard drive, Sirius Satellite Radio, Sirius Traffic, Album Artwork, Hands Free Phone, Voice Command of Radio & Navigation and iPod Control.

The Media Center 730N (RHR) has the features of the original (RER) with the addition of Sirius Travel Link, USB iPod Control w/Voice Command, Bluetooth Streaming Audio and Hands Free Texting. The Media Center 730N (RHR) is tentatively scheduled to be available in the 2011 Dodge Challenger/Jeep Grand Cherokee models in January, 2011.

The Media Center 430N (RHB) is a CD/DVD/MP3/HDD radio with 6.5" touch screen, 30GB hard drive, Album Artwork and Audio Jack, Garmin Navigation and Sirius Travel Link. Navigation from Garmin is the name recognized by drivers everywhere as the dependable, must­have navigation tool. The new radio features Garmin's intuitive user interface, and brings the Garmin consumer experience to a factory in­dash radio.

My best suggestion, Joseph, would be for you to contact your preferred Dodge dealership in order to discuss the 2011 model and options that would best suit your needs. Your preferred dealership is the best resource for the most up­to­date factory order information and availability.

links to the 730N RER 2.4 software update.

The Unofficial MyGIG Information Site Forum A Web Site Devoted To All Things MyGIG

http://mofv.com/mygig/BBS/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=fd6325251e693db5ad4f6ee6167571d0

other related links below;

Media Center 730N (RER) http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/quality/rer/

Media Center 730N (RER) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYCWFiIfE6Y

Media Center 730N (RER) http://www.mygigs.eu/features/mygig­media­center­730n­rer/

Related Tips!

See Also: Tip:57 Documents ­ Owner's Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc. See Also: Tip:87 MyGig Nav Voice System Tip See Also: Tip:130 Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?

Tip:91 Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)

Note: This reconnection procedure below may need to be performed anytime the vehicle battery has been disconnected.

DDM = Driver Door Module PDM = Passenger Door Module SCM = Steering Control Module

AUTO UP FRONT WINDOW DDM and PDM If the vehicle is equipped with the auto­up front window feature, once the battery is reconnected the door module needs to be calibrated. The door module requires calibration anytime the battery or door module has been disconnected for any length of time.

To calibrate, perform the following: 1. Turn the Ignition to the RUN position. Do not start Engine. Wait until all dings, beeps, etc, have stopped. 2. Regardless of current window position, move the driver side front window downward until the window stalls in the full down position. Allow the window motor to stall for at least 2­4 seconds before releasing the switch. Note: Monitor the Check Engine Light on the dash as it should start blinking.

3. Move the driver side front window upward until the window stalls in the full up position. Allow the window motor to stall for at least 2­4 seconds before releasing the switch. Monitor the Check Engine Light should stop blinking during this time.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the passenger side front window.

5. After about 3­4 seconds of completing driver and passenger side door control modules turn ignition key OFF. . 6. Verify the windows are properly calibrated by operating the express down and up features on the windows. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 50/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Express down is where you hit the unlock on the FOBIK once to unlock the doors and then hit the unlock button again and HOLD it to allow the windows "express down" feature to work. Releasing the unlock button anytime during the express down function will halt the windows going down.

7. Repeat this procedure if the calibration failed. If unable to properly calibrate after the second attempt, check the Driver’s Door Module (DDM) and Passenger’s Door Module (PDM) for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and correct as required.

ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP) If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time. If the SAS is not calibrated following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash continuously with no DTCs.

To calibrate (initialize), perform the following:

1. Position the front wheels straight ahead and center the steering wheel.

Look also at Challenger Tip# 40 for a step by step procedure here. Tip:40 Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)

Tip:92 Challenger Spare Tire(s) and SRT Adaptor/Spacer

Description: Description: Description: GoodYearSpare_1.jpg

Standard Goodyear 18 in. convenience spare T145/80R18

There has been a lot of owner controversy and concern when discovering that their vehicle (2009) did not come with a spare tire, but a small air pump and tire­fix foam. If the tire has any sidewall damage or severe tread damage, the foam is useless and if you have TPMS sensors in your wheel, the Factory Owner's Manual strongly warns not to use Fix­Foam as it will damage or destroy the expensive TPMS tire sensor! Now that did not go over well with me and many other owners.

If you wanted what is known as a 'convenience spare' you had to have ordered that as an option and know about the foam pump, and many owners just did not understand or know this at the time.

Having said this, you can however rectify the situation but with a little bit of work on your part. You can do one of several things here. You can search your local or internet salvage yards for wrecks containing any late model LX (Charger, 300c, Magnum) with 18 wheels and purchase a used spare, screw jack and lug wrench with hold down hardware, or you can order this new through your dealerships parts counter (see below).

Now, when dealing with the parts counter, you are not going to be able to get a 18 in convenience spare assembly, meaning WHEEL and TIRE, you will only be able to buy the spare tire steel wheel (4782465AA) and this runs about $115.00 and they should be able to get it very quickly.

Other parts for Spare tire setup included below;

Challenger Spare Tire Part Numbers

Dodge part numbers you will need to purchase to have a complete tire kit for 2009­10 Challenger with the 18"/20" size wheels.

1. 4895015­AC Scissor Jack 2. 6504599 Nut 3. 52059160­AC Retainer 4. 4782465­AA Wheel, Spare rim 5. Y8180222­53 Tire, (T145/80D18) 6. 6508110­AA Bolt 7. 4782999­AC Jack Handle Wrench

Dodge dealer parts cost is about $ 408.37.

The number for the tire is for the T145/80D18 which comes with 2010 Challengers. To use the 18 in. spare with SRT (clear Brembo brakes) you need to obtain the wheel­hub adapter that is described above.

You can go to your local GOODYEAR Tire Dealer and order the convenience spare T145/80R18 as the dealer can get this directly from the mfg file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 51/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks warehouse via his ordering software. They do not stock these in stores. No one else can supply this but Goodyear.

This is how I got mine and I got it mounted there as well. Now, be prepared for tire sticker shock as this sucker was expensive! We're talking 2 bills here as you will pay shipping from warehouse and tax and mounting, etc. So in total, I spent over 3 bills for just the spare tire assembly, but its new and not used.

If you want/need spare lug nuts, see this Challenger Tip: Tip:76 Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info.

Ok, there are a few other tidbits here.

You can also use a 17. in spare out of the late model Chargers and Magnums that have the T135/90R17. Why? Because the bolt pattern is the same, the internal rim will fit over the rear R/T and SE brakes calipers and the tire DIAMETER is almost identical to the T145/80R18.

There is approximately 1/2 inch difference in tire diameters. So the 17 in wheel/tire could be in fact used also as an emergency spare. The only glitch here on the SE/RT is you can use this on the rear wheel as the slightly smaller rim diameter will only clear the rear disc brake not the larger front one on R/T. So it would work in a pinch but not for all corners on an R/T.

So if you wanted to use this convenience spare, you need to use it on the rear in emergencies and if you have a flat on one of your front tires, you will have to install this size on the rear and use the rear good tire to replace the one that is flat on the front. Yes, you will have to change two tires then.

If you have a R/T Auto, you may have to turn off the ESP as you may get a warning light as this 17in tire diameter is a tad over the 5% speed differential allowance. R/T TrakPak with LSD (Lmitied Slip Differential) rear ends (Manual transmissions) will probably have a problem using this particular tire size, so I would not recommend it. Go with the T145/80R18's. Even then, if in question with the LSD, and you have a flat on a rear tire, simply install the convenience spare on a front corner and use that tire on rear(s). You don't know how far you may have to drive to get a tire fixed.

Here are the specifications/measurements;

T135/90R17 674.8 mm or 26.56 in. T145/80R18 689.2 mm or 27.13 in.

Now for the SRT8 Folks!

You want a spare but you have them BIG Brembo brakes and the standard convenience spare is not going to fit without hitting the calipers. So, you will have to use a wheel adaptor/spacer like in the picture below and you are in business. This adaptor/space allows you to clear the brakes and mount the standard 18 inch convenience spare tire. You do not want to carry a loose spare tire, full size or otherwise in the trunk as this will come forward into the cabin area via the fold down back seat, if the vehicle has a sudden stop or front end impact.

Adaptor for use with convenience spare.

Description: Description: Description: SRT_WheelSpacer1.JPG

USA Adaptor Challenger SRT ­ Wheel Adaptor 5x115 to 5x115 with 14mm studs Call USA Adaptor at 1­317­856­1810 ( ask for Dustin )

ESP Feedback ...

Quote: Originally Posted by 1970 Charger Heeeeey Latenite1, good info. But tip #92 will cause the computer for the ESP to burn­out on the SRT due to not having a 20" wheel. This will also put the car in a limp home mode and not let the car go over approximately 20 MPH.

Hi 1970 Charger;

I have different data that does not agree with your previous statement. Such as tire diameters. If the tire diameters are kept within 5% there is no real ESP issue, if there was a problem there you could turn OFF ESP, but with the proper size spare you should not have to. You will, however need to drive 50­55 mph, and this would present a problem for some.

Here is the published tire size diameters for the following;

Stock SRT8 ­ Goodyear 245/45ZR20 ­ tire diameter of 28.7 inch. Convenience Spare(GY) T145/80R18 ­ tire diameter of 27.13 inch.

So the tire is at 5% of the same diameter. So if a SRT owner had a flat on the rear, and had a any concern about his rear end, he could move a tire from the front to the back and then use the spare on the front and turn OFF ESP. Otherwise go with a full size spare and fabricate a solid trunk anchor mount and use up a lot of your trunk space. The emergency spare would be just really that, for use in an emergency to get you immediately to a tire shop/repair site.

You will also be required to drive at a very reduced speed anyway due to the mfg warning on use of convenience spare tires.

For those that wish to see more SRT spare tire information and a gent that did some research on using the adapter and different 18 in. spares from the Charger/Magnum/300c vehicles click the link below for good pictures and info from 340GTS.

http://www.challengerforumz.com/showthread.php?t=49415 file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 52/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Tip:93 Help on Sticking/Freezing Windows and Door Seals!

For those of you who live in cold climates or have had the experience of the automatic windows freezing up in the wintertime know it's a headache and a problem. It can throw the DDM/PDM control modules (the units that automatically drop the windows down and up when opening/closing the doors) go out of calibration and no longer work right.

There is a silicone based lubricant available at the dealership for this but there are some other aftermarket products that work just as well, if not better!

If you have this problem, go to your local Advance Auto, AutoZone or PepBoys and look for Prestone De­Ice products like these show below. These products are ideal for windshield wipers, doors seals and sticking windows.

The de­Icer Spray comes in spray bottles and a scraper­spray­can for ease of application while cleaning ice off of your windows.

Depending on the climate and geographic location, you can apply several layers of de­Icer on the top sections and seals of the driver and passenger windows eliminating the window sticking when opening and closing vehicle doors.

Here is a Z members feedback on the product on his Challenger!

[Posted by TJGS] I have really started to have trouble now that the temperatures have been in the 12­23 degrees F. I was using silcone spray but even that stopped working. Tried something new and have had great success. It's made by Prestone and comes in a spray bottle.

Spray it on the bottom inch of the glass, work the window up and down about 7­10 times moving it about 3­4 inches when you do it. This will wet the fuzzy felt below the seal. Windows have been working great ever since.

ALSO; For those who want to spend a little extra can go with Aquapel http://www.aquapel.com/

Causes rain to bead up and roll right off. Makes it easier to clear ice, snow, and even dirt and bugs. Reduces glare in the rain, especially at night. Lasts for months in normal driving conditions So you as a consumer have a number of ways to go with a spray/treatment to repel water and moisture and in cold weather freezing, resulting in ice. Here is a link to a site on how to properly apply Aquapel to your windshield! http://raysands.wordpress.com/2008/05/18/how­to­apply­aquapel­glass­treatment­to­your­windshield/

Tip:94 Challenger Replacement Light Bulbs LIGHT BULBS ­ EXTERIOR Exterior Bulb Number Low beam headlight – high intensity discharge (hid) D1S Dual High/Low beam Halogen capsule headlamp 9008 Front park/turn lamp 3157 Front fog light 9145/H10 Front side marker 168 Tail light 3057K Tail/stop/turn light 3057K Rear side marker 168 file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 53/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Backup light 921 Center high mount stop light (CHMSL) LED License 168

LIGHT BULBS ­ INTERIOR

Interior Bulb Number Rear courtesy/reading lights W5W Rear compartment (trunk) light 562 Overhead console reading lights 578 Visor vanity lights A6220 Glove box light 194 Door courtesy 562 Shift indicator light JKLE14140 Optional door map pocket / cup holder lighting LED

NOTE: All of the interior bulbs are glass wedge base or glass cartridge types. Aluminum base bulbs are not approved and should not be used for replacement.

Tip:95 Remote Start Function Inhibitors!

The following list below are items that can prevent your REMOTE START from working on your Challenger. This is where you press the REMOTE START push button and the car horn beeps once and the lights flash on once, and nothing happens? Sometimes its intermittent and annoying, and other times it can be pin pointed to a specific proximity switch or module communications problem. Here is a complete list of Remote Start Inhibitor functions or codes!

REMOTE START INHIBITORS 1. Using the scan tool, select ECU VIEW. 2. Select the TIPM or FCM section. 3. Select MORE OPTIONS 4. Select SYSTEM TESTS 5. Select REMOTE START INHIBIT DATA. The following table below is a Dodge listing of all possible causes for the inoperative Remote Start System. If any of the following conditions exist, the Remote Start System will not work. Use this information as a guide to the diagnosis of the Remote Start System.

­ ABORT ­ BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH ­ BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW ­ BRAKE PRESSED ­ COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGH ­ CRANK NO START ­ DRIVER DOOR AJAR ­ PASSENGER DOOR AJAR ­ LEFT REAR DOOR AJAR ­ RIGHT REAR DOOR AJAR ­ TRUNK/LIFTGATE AJAR ­ HOOD AJAR ­ NO HOOD SWITCH (INOPERATIVE) ­ EXCESSIVE GLOW PLUG TIME (DIESEL ONLY) ­ FAILED COUNTER REACHED (START) ­ HAZARD LAMPS (SWITCH PRESSED) ­ IGNITION IN RUN/START ­ IGNITION NOT IN LOCK ­ IGNITION SNA (SIGNAL NOT AVAILABLE FROM OTHER MODULE) ­ INVALID KEY ­ KEY IN IGNITION ­ LOW RPM SHUTDOWN ­ MIL ON ­ NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ­ NORMAL TIME OUT CUSTOMER ACCESS ­ NORMAL TIME OUT RUN MODE (15 MINUTES) ­ NOT CONFIGURED ­ NOT ENABLED ­ NOT IN PARK OR NEUTRAL ­ NOT PROGRAMMED ­ OIL PRESSURE LOW ­ PANIC MODE (ACTIVATED) ­ POWER LOSS ­ RKE OFF MESSAGE ­ RPM TOO HIGH (EXCEEDS 2500) ­ START COUNTER REACHED ­ VEHICLE SPEED HIGH ­ VTA ALARMING

If all of the previous items checked OK, and the remote starting system will not operate, refer to the REMOTE START POOR PERFORMANCE diagnostic procedure. There may be possible antenna related issues. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 54/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Tip:96 What does the term FOB, KEYFOB or FOBIK mean?

Q: Out of curiosity... I've always wondered what FOB or FOBIK stands for? A: KEY FOB is usually a decorative or "trick item" stuck on a key ring.

With the advent of automotive electronics, the key fob term took on the meaning of the RKE device. (RKE) Remote Keyless Entry device, you know, the little thingy that you hit to unlock the car door or open up the trunk.

Now a FOBIK means a FOB or RKE device with an (I)ntegrated (K)ey".

The integrated key will allow someone to lock valuables in the glove box and turn the RKE into a valet key so a parking attendant can park the car and you can keep your loaded .45 Semi­Auto in the glove box safely locked away.

Here is a link with lots of historical info on FOB's....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_fob

Tip:97 VIN PLATE DECODER

VIN PLATE DECODING INFORMATION

1 = Country 2 = Make 3 = Vehicle Type 4 = Other 5 = Line 6 = Series 7 = Body Style 8 = Engine 9 = Check Digit 10= Model Year 11= Assy Plant. 12 ­17 = Plant Sequence No.

The following table interprets the VIN Plate position shown above.

Digit / Position Interpretation Codes = Description

1 Country of Origin; 1 = Manufactured By Chrysler LLC 2 = Manufactured By Chrysler LLC, Canada 2 Assembler; D = Dodge B = Brampton Assembly Plant, Canada 3 Vehicle Type; 3 = Passenger Car 4 GVWR & Pass. Safety; H = Restraint System Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags Sales Code (CG3) J = Restraint System Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags Sales Code (CG3) K = Without Side Air Bags Sales Code (CGS) L = With Side Air Bags Sales Code (CGS) 5 Vehicle Line; J = Challenger (RWD) (LHD) U.S., Canada, Mexico 6 Series; 4 = Challenger SE, D­X­22 U.S., Canada, Mexico 5 = Challenger RT, D­X­22 U.S., Canada, Mexico 7 = Challenger SRT8, D­X­22 U.S., Canada, Mexico 7 Body Style; 4 = 2DR Pillared Hardtop Body Style ­ 22 8 Engine; W = 6.1L 8 CYL Gasoline Non � Turbo (ESF), T = 5.7L 8 CYL Gasoline, V = 3.5 L 6 CYL Gasoline 9 Check Digit ; 0 = Check Digit (range is 0­9, or X) (See note below on consumer fraud/theft information.) 10 Model Year; 8 = 2008 Model Year 9 = 2009 Model Year A = 2010 Model Year 11 Assembly Plant H = Brampton Assembly 12 thru 17 = Vehicle Build Sequence, or Model Year Assembly Sequence number

To find the manufacture date your of vehicle (Challenger), open the driver's side door and on the right of the pillar or end of the door there should be a door sticker. . The MDH # on the bottom row of your door sticker stands for Month/Day/Hour of manufacture.

Check Digit information: To protect the consumer from theft and possible fraud the manufacturer is required to include a Check Digit at the ninth position of the Vehicle Identification Number. The check digit is used by the manufacturer and government agencies to verify the authenticity of the vehicle and official documentation. The formula to use the check digit is not released to the general public. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 55/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Tip:98 Cooling Flow ­ 5.7L/6.1L HEMI Engines

COOLING FLOW ­ 5.7L/6.1L HEMI ENGINE

COOLING FLOW ­ 5.7L/6.1L ENGINE

1 ­ HOT BOTTLE/COOLANT RECOVERY BOTTLE

2 ­ HEATER CORE

3 ­ CYLINDER HEAD

4 ­ CYLINDER BLOCK

5 ­ WATER PUMP

6 ­ THERMOSTAT

7 ­ RADIATOR

The cooling system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water pump to circulate coolant throughout the system. The cooling system also provides a means of heating the passenger compartment and cooling the NAG1 automatic transmission fluid (if equipped).

SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION

Metric Standard

3.5 L 10.8 Liters 11.4 Quarts

5.7 L 13.9 Liters 14.7 Quarts

6.1 L 14.4 Liters 15.2 Quarts

COMPONENTS

The cooling system consists of the following components :

Radiator Electric Cooling fan Fan shroud Radiator pressure cap Thermostat Coolant recovery container Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an automatic transmission) Coolant Water pump Hoses and hose clamps

ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT

The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Only Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a freeze point of ­37°C (­35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.

THERMOSTAT file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 56/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Description:

The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostats have an air bleed located in the thermostat flange. The air bleed allows internal trapped air during cooling system filling to be released. The thermostat on the 2.7L and 3.5L engines are located on the lower left side of engine, near the front. The thermostat on both engines are on the inlet side of the water pump.

The thermostat on the 5.7L/6.1L engine is located beneath the thermostat housing (1) at the front of the intake manifold. A rubber seal is used to seal the thermostat housing to the intake manifold.

The thermostat contains the following components:

1 ­ Vent Valve. Vents the cooling system via a ball valve (jiggle pin) when it is filled and when the engine is running. 2 ­ Bypass Valve. Controls coolant flow through the bypass passage to the inlet side of the water pump 3 ­ Thermostat Housing Seal. 4 ­ Main Valve. Controls coolant flow through the radiator.

OPERATION

WARM­UP PHASE

Up to a coolant temperature of approximately 87° C (189° F), the main valve is closed and the bypass valve fully open. The flow through the radiator is interrupted and coolant flows through the bypass passage directly to the inlet side of the water pump.

PARTIAL­LOAD PHASE

The main valve begins to open at a coolant temperature of 86° C (189° F), and a small amount of coolant flows through the radiator.

As the engine temperature increases, the main valve opens further and the bypass valve gradually closes. More coolant flows through the radiator and less coolant flows through the bypass passage.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 57/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

FULL­LOAD PHASE

The main valve is fully open at a coolant temperature above 102° C (216° F). The bypass plate seals off the bypass passage. The entire quantity of coolant flows through the radiator.

Please note these very important related tips!

Tip:47 HOAT Engine Coolant!

For additional information on Challenger Fill Spec's, Torque, Special Tools and Pictorials on drain, flush and fill procedures, CLICK HERE.

Tip:99 NAGI Automatic Transmission, Description Detail

NAG1 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION

NAG1 Automatic Transmission

1 ­ TORQUE CONVERTER 11 ­ PARKING LOCK GEAR

2 ­ OIL PUMP 12 ­ INTERMEDIATE SHAFT

3 ­ DRIVESHAFT 13 ­ FREEWHEEL F2

4 ­ MULTI­DISC HOLDING CLUTCH B1 14 ­ REAR PLANETARY GEAR SET

5 ­ DRIVING CLUTCH K1 15 ­ CENTER PLANETARY GEAR SET

6 ­ DRIVING CLUTCH K2 16 ­ ELECTROHYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT

7 ­ MULTI­DISC HOLDING CLUTCH B3 17 ­ FRONT PLANETARY GEAR SET

8 ­ DRIVING CLUTCH K3 18 ­ FREEWHEEL F1

9 ­ MULTI­DISC HOLDING CLUTCH B2 19 ­ STATOR SHAFT

10 ­ OUTPUT SHAFT 20 ­ TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK­UP CLUTCH

The NAG1 automatic transmission is an electronically controlled 5­speed transmission with a lock­up clutch in the torque converter. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 58/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks The ratios for the gear stages are obtained by 3 planetary gear sets. Fifth gear is designed as an overdrive with a high­speed ratio. NAG1 identifies a family of transmissions and means “N”ew “A”utomatic “G”earbox, generation 1. Various marketing names are associated with the NAG1 family of transmissions, depending on the transmission variation being used in a specific vehicle. Some examples of the marketing names are: W5A300, W5A380, and W5A580. The marketing name can be interpreted as follows:

W = A transmission using a hydraulic torque converter. 5 = 5 forward gears. A = Automatic Transmission. 580 = Maximum input torque capacity in Newton meters.

The gears are actuated electronically/hydraulically. The gears are shifted by means of an appropriate combination of three multi­disc holding clutches, three multi­disc driving clutches, and two freewheeling clutches. Electronic transmission control enables precise adaptation of pressures to the respective operating conditions and to the engine output during the shift phase which results in a significant improvement in shift quality. Furthermore, it offers the advantage of a flexible adaptation to various vehicle and engines. Basically, the automatic transmission with electronic control offers the following advantages:

Reduces fuel consumption. Improved shift comfort. More favorable step­up through the five gears. Increased service life and reliability. Lower maintenance costs.

TRANSMISSION IDENTIFICATION

The transmission can be generically identified visually by the presence of a round 13­way connector located near the front corner of the transmission oil pan, on the right side. Specific transmission information can be found stamped into a pad on the left side of the transmission, above the oil pan rail. TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS The gear ratios for the NAG1 automatic transmission are as follows:

1st Gear­3.59:1 2nd Gear­2.19:1 3rd Gear­1.41:1 4th Gear­1.00:1 5th Gear­0.83:1 Reverse­3.16:1

TRANSMISSION HOUSING The converter housing and transmission are made from a light alloy. These are bolted together and centered via the outer multi­disc carrier of multi­disc holding clutch, B1. A coated intermediate plate provides the sealing. The oil pump and the outer multi­disc carrier of the multi­disc holding clutch, B1, are bolted to the converter housing. The stator shaft is pressed into it and prevented from rotating by splines. The electro­hydraulic unit is bolted to the transmission housing from underneath. A sheet metal steel oil pan forms the closure. MECHANICAL SECTION The mechanical section consists of a input shaft, output shaft, a sun gear shaft, and three planetary gear sets which are coupled to each other. The planetary gear sets each have four planetary pinion gears. The oil pressure for the torque converter lock­up clutch and clutch K2 is supplied through bores in the input shaft. The oil pressure to clutch K3 is transmitted through the output shaft. The lubricating oil is distributed through additional bores in both shafts. All the bearing points of the gear sets, as well as the freewheeling clutches and actuators, are supplied with lubricating oil. The parking lock gear is connected to the output shaft via splines. Freewheeling clutches F1 and F2 are used to optimize the shifts. The front freewheel, F1, is supported on the extension of the stator shaft on the transmission side and, in the locking direction, connects the sun gear of the front planetary gear set to the transmission housing. In the locking direction, the rear freewheeling clutch, F2, connects the sun gear of the center planetary gear set to the sun gear of the rear planetary gear set. ELECTRO­HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT The electro­hydraulic control unit comprises the shift plate made from light alloy for the hydraulic control and an electrical control unit. The electrical control unit comprises of a supporting body made of plastic, into which the electrical components are assembled. The supporting body is mounted on the shift plate and screwed to it.

Strip conductors inserted into the supporting body make the connection between the electrical components and a plug connector. The connection to the wiring harness on the vehicle and the transmission control module (TCM) is produced via this 13­pin plug connector with a bayonet lock.

SHIFT GROUPS

The hydraulic control components (including actuators) which are responsible for the pressure distribution before, during, and after a gear change are described as a shift group. Each shift group contains a command valve, a holding pressure shift valve, a shift pressure shift valve, overlap regulating valve, and a solenoid.

The hydraulic system contains three shift groups: 1­2/4­5, 2­3, and 3­4. Each shift group can also be described as being in one of two possible states. The active shift group is described as being in the shift phase when it is actively engaging/disengaging a clutch combination. The 1­2/4­5 shift group control the B1 and K1 clutches. The 2­3 shift group controls the K2 and K3 clutches. The 3­4 shift group controls the K3 and B2 clutches.

TRANSMISSION COOLING All NAG1 Automatic (on Dodge Challengers) have a transmission cooler from the factory.

There are a pair of aluminum lines from the transmission up to the front of the radiator. Where an auxiliary cooler is mounted to the front of the radiator assy.

This cooler unit serves two or three functions depending on the following conditions;

1. automatic transmission cooler file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 59/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks 2. air conditioning condenser 3. 2009 and later vehicles the power steering cooler is also integrated in this unit.

The factory transmission cooler should be considered minimum equipment level. If you are running a high stall torque converter, you will want additional cooling over the factory level.

NOTE: See also link: Tip:109 The TCM ­ Transmission Control Module (Detail)

Tip:100 BMC BILLET CATCH­CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION

Tired of bashed knuckles and sprained wrists??

BMC BILLET CATCH­CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION

For those who have purchased the BMC Satin or Polished Billet Catch­Can for their HEMI Challengers are happy with them I’m sure. The addition of Moroso’s unit as well as others now available, shows there are more options to choose from when now ordering a particular style or unit.

Tip:101 Brake Repair on Challenger/Charger!

Tech Topics covered in the article are;

Calipers Brake Packages Inspection Installing New Pads and Rotors Base System Bleeding ABS Bleeding Parking Brake Adjustment Initial Adjustment Final Adjustment

Here is a link to a this article with torque spec's on doing your own brake repairs on a Challenger or Charger (LC/LX frame)

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/61086/Brake_Job_.aspx

Tip:102 2009 Dodge Challenger Final Sales Figures

2009 Dodge Challenger sales figures by color, model, and transmission

SE is LCDH22, R/T is LCDP22, SRT8 is LCDX22. Some of these colors (e.g. B5 Blue) were not generally available or were only available for part of the year. Hemi Orange and B5 Blue were not available (understandably) on Challenger SE. The four­speed automatic was dropped for the 2010 model year. Many thanks to Mike V. for providing this information.

2009 Challengers 4­Speed 5­Speed Automatic 6­Speed Manual Total Color SE SE R/T SRT8 Total R/T SRT8 Total Deep Water Blue 951 3 898 901 450 450 2,302 Dark Titanium 670 497 497 208 208 1,375 Hemi Orange 1,821 1,507 3,328 1,123 1,217 2,340 5,668 B5 Blue 279 83 362 244 153 397 759 TorRed 1157 1,170 784 1,954 586 637 1,223 4,334 Inferno Red 993 2 764 766 330 330 2,089 Bright Silver 1017 1 808 620 1,429 297 351 648 3,094 Stone White 782 1 857 858 463 463 2,103 Brilliant Black 2452 2 2,602 1,726 4,330 1,486 1,508 2,994 9,556 8022 9 9,696 4,720 14,425 5,187 3,866 9,053 31,500

Total by Model: Challenger S/E; 8,031 Challenger R/T; 14,883 Challenger SRT; 8,586 file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 60/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Total; 31,500

Tip:103 Washing and Draining Water from Door Mirrors.

When you wash your Challenger you can rotate the mirror housings downward to let the water drain out.

This will prevent a slug of water coming out of the mirror housings when you go to drive your car after drying it off after a wash and streaking up the sides of the vehicle.

Tip:104 Dodge Challenger Parts Manuals 2008 ­ 2011

Below here are links to the 2008­2011 Dodge Challenger Parts breakdown OEM manuals.

Note, there will be many common parts across the LC platform between the basic models and this may help if you are looking to see parts and parts breakdowns. There are some trim differences between models but there are many frame and body parts that are going to be the same across model years.

You will note that the factory FRAME designation for Dodge Challenger is [LC], where as Dodge Charger frame designation is [LX].

2008 LC Parts

2009 LC Parts

2010 LC Parts

2011 LC Parts

NOTE: Related tip ­> Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual

Tip:105 Dodge Challenger Accessories – Genuine MOPAR Catalog

Here are just a small sample of what’s in the Accessory Catalog

Category/Accessory Contents Audio/Video & Electronics, Amplifiers, Speakers & Subwoofers, Audio Accessories, iPod interface, iPod integration Backup/Driving Assistance, Park Distance Sensors Cellular Accessories, Hands Free Bluetooth Car Kit, u­connect phone Cargo Area Mat, Carpeted Covers, Full Car Door Sill Guards Fuel Filler Door Hood, Hood Scoop Locks, Wheel Locks Navigation Systems, Additional Geographic Map Data and Accessories Pedal Kit Remote Start Radio Systems Roadside Safety Kits Shift Knob, T­Handle’s Seat Covers, Katzkin Leather Splash Guards Spoilers, Rear Spoiler Wheels, OEM ­ 17, 18, 20in.

http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/catalogues_2009/dodge/Challenger%20Quick%20Reference.pdf

Custom fitted DASH covers from CoverKing: http://ptboutique.com/items/coverking/dodge­challenger/dodge_challenger_coverking_custom_tailored_velour_dash_cover

Tip:106 HomeLink Wireless Control System – 3 Button overhead unit in late model Dodge Challengers

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is HomeLink® Wireless Control System?

A: HomeLink is an integrated transceiver (a transmitter and receiver) that can be programmed to activate radio frequency (RF) devices such as garage doors, estate/community gates, entry door locks, home/office lighting, or other RF devices.

HomeLink is compatible with radio­frequency devices operating between 288 and 399 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 322­335 MHz range). Select 2007 and newer vehicles are compatible up to 433 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 400­410 MHz range). Please contact us by email or phone (1­800­355­3515) to verify vehicle compatibility. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 61/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks You can get up to date information and answers to basic questions like;

How does HomeLink work? How can I get HomeLink?

I can't program my HomeLink.

Range troubleshooting tips:

What other capabilities does HomeLink have besides operating garage doors? Where can I purchase HomeLink compatible products?

How do I program a pre­1982 garage door opener?

My garage door opener doesn’t have a hand­held transmitter. Will HomeLink still work? How does HomeLink work with KEELOQ®­based rolling code garage door openers?

http://www.homelink.com/home/faqs.taf

Go to this site for additional information on programming "rolling code" gate openers and other supported RF devices.

Also, here is a video describing HOMELINK operations from the Dodge Channel.

Tip:200 Dodge Channels 2011 Dodge Challenger Homelink System Documentary

Tip:107 FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations

Some Challenger owners have complained about their key fobs mysteriously unlocking their trunks or rolling down their windows. A possible fix is described is described below:

The FOBIK has a rubber mat with the button graphics on it.

If you open your FOBIK, the bottom side of the rubber mat has metal discs called "Snap Domes". The snap domes are what give each button that snap feel when you press it. Each of these snap domes are made of stainless steel, coated in a black carbon paint to give them extra conductivity.

When you press the button, the snap dome completes the circuit for that button and the FOBIK transmits.

An issue here is that sometimes a small piece of the carbon coating can break away from the stainless steel and get trapped under the snap dome. Even a very, very small piece of this is enough to create this problem.

Because the carbon material is very conductive, and it is trapped beneath the snap dome, it can complete the circuit very easily and make the FOBIK transmit.

Depending on which button this happens to, this can create a variety of issues. If this phenomenon occurs beneath most buttons, the outcome is very predictable but is most annoying when it happens beneath the Unlock button. That can randomly unlock the car, but also can make your windows roll down. Not good if it's raining out.

The fix is very simple. Just open up the FOBIK, and use a Q­tip and a small amount of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol carefully wipe both the PCB where the snap domes make contact and the underside of the snap domes. Dry/wipe off any excess.

Remove any and all loose black residue.

Once gone, this intermittent or erratic problem should go away as well.

Button Protection?

For those of you who have to carry your FOBIK in your pocket and bend over a lot or move around a lot to where the keys push on the buttons, you can use two wraps of Scotch #88 electrical tape around the center of the FOBIK to give your trunk key a bit more protection from inadvertent presses. The extra layers of electrical tape will prevent keys on the key ring from easily pressing the buttons on the FOBIK but yet if you need to press them, you will only need to exert a little more force in pressing them to active the function.

SEE ALSO: Tip:49 Key FOB? Battery replacement? Dead FOBIK?

Tip:108 The PCM ­ PowerTrain Control Module

This is the same thing as the ECM in many other vehicles and it controls the HEMI engine and fuel system for emissions compliance. The link below provides a detailed description of PCM modes of operations, inputs, outputs and critical components in the engine system.

NGC Engine Management Technology

Dodge terminology has changed a bit in identify a new "generation" of PCM that is in the modern Challenger. It is referred to as an NGC instead of a PCM. NGC is an acronym for Next Generation Controller.

Ok, so what is the big deal. Well like prior technology used in PCM's, the PCM can tell if say a sensor is open (no there) or shorted. It can throw a MIL or CEL on the dash to indicate trouble. With the new type NGC units, they can do to another level and see if the signal coming in from a sensor is file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 62/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks "bad". They call it where they will "rationalize" the value, compare it to other values being looked at and throw a code based on the information coming in from a sensor is "wrong" or out of spec for the particular range or value(s).

It is important for the Dodge Challenger owner to have some basic understanding of what functions this important module does and how it interacts with the engine performance and the TCM (Transmission Control Module) and automatic transmission operations. They do have an intimate relationship.

http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/PCM­Main%20operations.htm

Tip:109 The TCM ­ Transmission Control Module

The NAG1 Transmission Control Module (TCM) controls most all of the fundamental operations of the transmission.

The controller monitors speed, gears, torque, temperature and a host of other operations to keep the power coming from the engine going out to the rear drive wheels in the best "power management" situations.

The link below provides important specific location and operational information about the NAG1's TCM (Transmission Control Modlule):

http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/TCM­NAG1.htm

These links below also provide useful and/or additional information specific to NAG1 Adaptation and TCM "Limp modes";

Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) ­ Limp Mode(s) Tip:124 TCM Adaptation ­ NAG1 Only

Tip:110 The T­Handle Shifter Upgrade for Challenger (Auto)

Description: Description: Description: T_Handle.jpg

Dodge P/N# DCP­82211622

In looking at making changes to my Challenger R/T Automatic, I saw that I wanted the "T" handle shifter to go along with my brush SS door sills, dash and door panel kits. I think it looks far superior to the leather covered stick knob that came on the car. Several vendors carry this as well as your Dodge Parts counter now, and the installation is quite simple.

The newest part to be released from Dodge is the New Challenger T­Handle Shifter Knob Dodge Part number DCP­82211622.

For step by step instructions on how to install the T­Handle shifter you can go to this link below;

http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archive/2008/09/03/t­handle­upgrade­for­your­challenger.aspx

For those wanting a custom Billet T­handle, Billet Tech has a nice one as well. Here is a link to their product page;

http://www.custombilletstore.com/product_p/1030.htm

Tip:111 Push Button Start Overlay Trim

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 63/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

This vendor provides a variety of different start button overlays and can do custom work if you have a special logo you want to put on your "Start Button"!

http://challengerstuff.com/

and

Nate's Custom Start Button Overlays

Here is his website. Welcome To ReBadge Design! Your source for custom vehicle badges and more!

Tip:112 Electro Chromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature

On 2009 Dodge Challenger with Electro chromatic Mirror option (2J Electronics Pkg) there is the disable feature for the (R)everse gear to disable the "dimming" feature. So it is not really a brightening of the mirror but actually a disable of the dimming "if" the dimming feature is enabled or turned on.

For those technical, the modern Electro chromatic Mirrors on many models of Chevy, Ford, Dodge, and some imports use this disable feature. On Dodge Challenger the disable control signal originates from the TIPM on the Backup Lamp Control Output circuit.

Q: I couldn't find a proper place for this question, or could I find this info in my owner's manual. On my rearview mirror, there is a green light that comes on when I crank the car, what is this light. There is a switch, beside the light, that will turn it off.

A: It is the “Auto Dim” on/off switch. Green light on means "auto dim" is enabled.

2009 Owner's Manual – Automatic Dimming Mirror pg. 75 2010 Owner's Manual – Automatic Dimming Mirror pg. 77

Tip:113 Tire Tech Information ­ Reading and Calculating Tire Sizes/Dimensions

How to Read a Tire Sidewall

Translate the gibberish on your tire!

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 64/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Description: Description: Description: Nitto­ 420s_255­55R18

The typical tire size is expressed something like this: P245/45R17 93H M+S.

Those numbers and letters can seem like Greek, so let's define them one at a time below.

P: The first letter stands for tire's intended use. P is the most common and it means Passenger. LT stands for Light Truck. An LT tire has a sturdier construction than a P tire, and it can carry a greater load, which we will talk about later.

245: Width of the tire, from sidewall to sidewall, in millimeters. A 245 is 245 millimeters, or 24.5 centimeters, wide. The tread width is actually somewhat smaller than the tire's actual width.

45: Aspect Ratio. This is the sidewall's height from the inside diameter to the outside diameter. It is expressed as a percentage of the width. A 245/45 is 45 percent as tall as it is wide, making it approximately 110.25 millimeters tall. As aspect ratios decrease, the tire's firmness increases. Smaller aspect ratios, such as 35 or 40 are generally reserved for performance tires on sports cars.

R: Tire's type of construction. R stands for Radial, and all new cars and light trucks today use radials. You may also see B in this spot for Bias Ply. Bias ply tires were used prior to the mid 1970s.

17: Tire's inner diameter, which matches the outer diameter of your car's wheels.

93: Load Rating. Load ratings range from 0 to 279 and each has a corresponding weight associated with it. A 93 load rating means that tire is certified to carry up to 1433 pounds at maximum inflation pressure. If a car weighs 4000 pounds, then each tire handles 1000 pounds with no passengers or cargo aboard. If you intend to tow a heavy boat or trailer, you should buy tires with a higher load rating. This will require some math to figure out the vehicle weight, the trailer weight, and the weight of a load you may carry inside the vehicle while towing. Add it all up, divide by four, and make sure your replacement tires have a corresponding load rating.

H: Speed Rating. All passenger tires have a speed rating expressed as a letter. Those letters and corresponding speeds the tires are rated for are in this chart:

S: 112 mph T: 118 mph U: 124 mph H: 130 mph V: 149 mph W: 168 mph Y: 186 mph Z: over 186 mph

A Speed Rating is really an indication of a tire's ability to dissipate heat to avoid a blowout. Higher speeds mean greater heat buildup.

Tires with higher speed ratings are constructed to handle heat better. In general, they also ride harder than tires with lower speed ratings. S­, T­, and U­ rated tires are considered regular passenger­car tires. H­ and V­ratings are reserved for touring tires, which are generally found on sport sedans. The Z rating is for performance tires found on high performance sports cars.

M+S: Mud and Snow. This is an all­season tire. A summer performance tire would have no designation here.

Most modern passenger car and light truck tires feature size designations that indicate the tire's dimensions in a combination of metric, mathematical and English systems. While this unusual combination of millimeters, percentages and inches is a byproduct of the evolution of global tire specifications, it also provides the ability to calculate/estimate basic tire dimensions.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 65/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

More information can be seen at: Calculating Tire Dimensions http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=7&

Tip:114 Personalize U­connect

You can change the name of your device (phone) on U­Connect so that when you press the button instead of the voice saying "Blackberry 8530 is now connected" it can say "Challenger is now connected"

Steps are:

Go into menu Systems set up Phone pairing Select your phone (tap on it) Re­name device Backspace to erase current name Enter new name (ex: Challenger)

NOTE: You can only input up to 15 characters including spaces (no phrases)

When I hit the U­Connect button and the car says "Challenger is now connected", and passengers are now impressed.

Tip:115 Rear Fold­down center arm rest removal

You will require a Torx bit T­40 to remove the one bolt and then it just comes off. You will need to pull down the rear seat (behind front passenger side) and then you'll see the one bolt.

Tip:116 R/T and SRT front chin spoiler replacement

Many R/T owners are interested and are looking at replacing their front chin spoilers with the one from the SRT8. This one has a pair of inlet scoops on the front to all air to enter and be directed by channels on the belly pan toward the front brake rotor's for additional cooling.

If you are going to do this, you will need to "re­drill" the mounting holes in the SRT one to fit the mounting points on the R/T. Looking at the picture below will show the differences.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 66/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Description: Description: Description: RT_SRT_spoilers.jpg

When you remove the R/T spoiler use it as a pattern to locate and mark the holes needed in the SRT spoiler to be drilled for mounting. Note the channels in the front belly pan for directed air as these will then line up with the front opening in the SRT spoiler.

R/T Spoiler Version: #68051388AA

SRT Challenger Chin Spoiler: # 68043390AA (does not include fender flares) SRT Challenger Belly Pan : # 05030943AA (Air ducts) 2008­2010

If you want to install the NEW model 2011 Challenger spoiler on your R/T, etc., here is the info;

2011 IE 392 Challenger Spoiler # 68109837AA List $80.10 ea Side's filler Part #68109838AA and # 8109839AA List $ 9.85ea

Note: Have replacement "pop­pins" as you will have to cut out several in the forward front fender wells and you may have a problem with one or two of the 5/16" (larger) ones on the belly pan if they don't want to release well. Also the lower front wheel well trim will have to be released and the stock Dodge plastic "rivets" will have to be cut as they are not reusable. The reusable ones you can get replacements at your local AutoZone or Advance Auto stores.

You can get a plastic rivet kit (pop pins) from Harbor Freight Tools (Item #97757) Hand Riveter with 40 POM Rivets where the sizes you need to replace and wheel well ones are there in that kit.

P/N 97757

I used a cardboard template and taped it to the old (R/T) spoiler to mark the holes and move the template to the SRT one and drilled/slotted the holes as they were on the R/T unit.

Note: For a good vendor and comprehensive list for pop­pins, plastic rivets and clips used on the Dodge Challenger see;

Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!

See also Speedy' Garage Spoiler installation link below;

http://speedysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_srt8_chin_spoiler_and_belly_pan/challenger_srt_chin_spoiler_and_belly_pan.htm

Tip:117 KeylessGo and Keeloq Encryption/Cipher

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 67/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Remote Keyless Entry System Security Related modules are WIN (Wireless Ignition Module) and PEM (Passive Entry Module). Both of these modules are used in the keyless go system and use Keeloq block cipher.

KeeLoq is a proprietary hardware­dedicated NLFSR­based block cipher. The uni­directional command transfer protocol was designed by Frederick Bruwer PhD, CEO at Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd and the cryptographic algorithm was created by Professor Gideon Kuhn with the silicon implementation by Willem Smit, PhD at Nanoteq Pty Ltd (South Africa) in the mid 80's and sold to Microchip Technology Inc in 1995 for $10 million. It's used in "code hopping" encoders and decoders such as NTQ105/106/115/125D/129D and HCS101/2XX/3XX/4XX/5XX. KeeLoq is used in the majority of remote keyless entry systems by such companies as Chrysler, Daewoo, Fiat, GM, Honda, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen Group, Clifford, Shurlok, Jaguar, etc.

More reference material on Keeloq is available online as well as on Wikipedia; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KeeLoq

How hard is it to steal a Challenger with Keeloq block cipher?

KeeLoq is a cipher used in several car anti­theft mechanisms distributed by Microchip Technology Inc. It may protect your car if you own a Chrysler, Daewoo, Fiat, General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen, or Jaguar. The cipher is included in the remote control device that opens and locks your car and that activates the anti­theft mechanisms.

Each device has a unique key that takes 18 billion billion values. With 100 personal computers, it would take several decades to find such a key.

Therefore KeeLoq was widely believed to be secure. In our research we have found a method to identify the key in less than a day. The attack requires access for about 1 hour to the remote control (for example, while it is stored in your pocket). Once we have found the key, we can deactivate the alarm and drive away with your car.

This research is the joint work between 3 research groups: the computer science department of the Technion, Israel, the research group COSIC of the Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Belgium, and the math department of the Hebrew University, Israel.

Note: The way the researchers were able to break the cipher in less than a day (typically about 4­5 hours), and if you are extremely lucky, in about an hour but that is with multiple computers and very sophisticated custom written software. Note the required sophisticated radio hardware and software as well, in addition to the custom hacking code.

Note: That they are not "attacking" the vehicle, they are attacking the FOBIK remote! You have to be within 30 ft and be pretty close to the FOBIK when attacking it. What you are looking for is the special 4 digit PIN key to derive the unique master key code.

If you are afraid that some highly intelligent, very computer savvy person is going to steal your Challenger by doing this, lock or secure the FOBIK when it is not in use (within the vehicle) in a metal box or wrapped in Alum. foil to prevent access via radio frequency (433mhz).

Thieves with this level of expertise don't go after any old cars, they go after the high end Mercedes, BMW's, Lexus, etc., the very very expensive luxury cars. A local jackleg is not going to be able to do this.

Reference; How to steal Cars ­ A practical attack on KEELOQ

Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof ­ Operations and Calibration

POWER TOP ­ SUNROOF ­ Challenger (LX) 2009­10

Any diagnosis of the power sunroof system should begin with the use of a scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures Information. The scan tool can provide confirmation that the Controller Area Network (CAN) Data Bus is functional, that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the proper messages on the CAN Data Bus, and that the power sunroof motor is being sent the proper hard wired output by the sunroof switch.

For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin­out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.

SUNROOF OPERATION:

This vehicle has a vent, tilt and slide power sunroof system with express (one­touch) open and closing feature. The sunroof system receives constant battery feed through a fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). The sunroof will operate normally with the key in any position while the Accessory Delay system is active. If the sunroof is moving when the key is turned to the START position (crank engine), all motions stop until the key is released, then the previously requested sunroof motion will resume. The sunroof will also complete a requested motion if the Accessory Delay system goes inactive while the motion is in progress.

A combination push­button and rocker switch module mounted in the overhead console controls sunroof operation. The sunroof switch is a rocker design with a push button in the center of the two halves of the rocker.

Pressing the rocker towards the front of the car commands the sunroof closed.

Pressing the rocker towards the rear of the car commands the sunroof open.

Pressing the center push button commands the sunroof up into the vent position (Rear of sunroof glass raises above the vehicle roof with glass still covering the sunroof opening).

Pressing the vent mode button with the sunroof fully open will close all the way and then retract to the half­open position.

All switch commands operate with the glass starting in any position.

An electronic control system, integral to the motor/module assembly, provides the express open and close functions. Pressing the file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 68/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks "open" or "close" end of the rocker switch moves the sunroof glass panel to the full open or full closed position, respectively.

During express closing, anytime an obstacle is detected in the way of the glass, the motor will stop and reverse travel to avoid pinching an occupant's finger, ice in the track, etc. This function is called Excessive Force Limitation (EFL). There are two methods of overriding the EFL function.

1. When three EFL events occur without the glass being allowed to fully close, the next close attempt will only move while the close switch is continuously actuated. This allows the sunroof to be forced closed if multiple close attempts fail.

2. If the sunroof close switch is continuously actuated during an EFL event, through the reversal, and during a two second wait time, then continuing to hold the close switch will cause the roof to move towards close with the EFL protection disabled. This allows the sunroof to be forced closed if it is known that a reversal will occur.

While in EFL override, the closing motion will cease if the sunroof switch is released at any time.

The motor/module is programmed to learn the speed required to drive the panel based on position and recalibrates itself as needed. If the sunroof becomes un­calibrated, it will only respond to the vent switch.

If the vent switch is pressed, the glass will move toward vent; if the switch is released, all motion stops.

In the event that the sunroof system becomes un­calibrated perform the sunroof position calibration procedure.

SUNROOF POSITION CALIBRATION:

Press the power sunroof switch (Open, Closed, and Vent). If no movement occurs when either the open switch or closed switch is pressed, but the system does move when the "vent button" is pressed and held, the system is not calibrated.

Perform the following procedure to "position calibrate" the power sunroof system.

1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position.

2. Press the "vent button" on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof glass panel has moved to the full vent position and the motor movement has stopped for at least 1 second.

3. Press the "close switch" on the power sunroof switch and hold for a moment (at least 100ms) and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full close position. If the sunroof glass panel does not return to the full close position, refer to the appropriate diagnostic information for full system diagnosis.

4. Verify proper system operation. EXCESSIVE FORCE LIMITATION (EFL) CALIBRATION:

NOTE: Verify the battery is in good condition prior to performing this procedure. Do not leave the vehicle on a battery charger while performing this procedure.

If the voltage at the sunroof motor/module drops below 11 volts or exceeds 15 volts at anytime while this procedure is being performed, the Excessive Force Limitation (EFL) function will not be properly calibrated.

1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position.

2. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof glass panel has moved to the full vent position and the motor movement has stopped for at least 1 second.

3. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position. [This will be considered the first sunroof closed position in a series of four sunroof closes.]

4. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should move to the full vent position. After the sunroof motor/module has stopped, press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position. [This will be considered the second sunroof closed position in a series of four sunroof closes.]

5. Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “vent” then “closed” positions two more times so that the sunroof glass has moved to the closed position a total of four times starting with the first sunroof close in step 3.

6. Press the open position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full open position.

7. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position. [This will be considered the first sunroof closed position in a series of five sunroof closes. ]

8. Press the open position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should move to the full open position. After the sunroof motor/module has stopped, press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 69/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position.

Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “open” then “closed” position four more times so that the sunroof glass has moved to the closed position a total of five times starting with the first sunroof close in step 7.

Verify proper EFL calibration by placing a standard pencil at the front of the sunroof and then moving the sunroof to the full closed position. The sunroof should reverse direction upon contact without damage to the pencil.

SWITCH ‐ POWER SUNROOF 1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Fuse feed from Power Distribution Center (rear) [Fuse # 44]

2. Remove the overhead console, (Refer to Electrical/8M ­ Message Systems/Overhead Console ­ Removal) .

3. Disconnect the power sunroof switch wire harness connector. 4. Using an ohmmeter, test the continuity of the power sunroof switch in each switch position. Refer to the POWER SUNROOF SWITCH CONTINUITY TABLE . If OK, inspect the wiring harness and connectors for damage. Use a scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures Information to complete diagnosis of the power sunroof system. If not OK, replace the overhead console.

POWER SUNROOF SWITCH CONTINUITY TABLE

SWITCH POSITION CONTINUITY BETWEEN PINS

OFF NO CONTINUITY

SUNROOF OPEN B AND D

SUNROOF CLOSED B AND C

SUNROOF VENT B AND A

Tip:119 TORQUE SPEC ­ Engine 5.7L and 6.1L

TORQUE SPEC, Engine 5.7L

5.7L

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

Block Pipe Plugs

(1/4 – 18 NPT) Oil Galley Plug 20 15 —

(1/4 – 18 NPT) Coolant Drain Plug 34 25 —

(3/8 NPT) 27 20 —

Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 122 90 —

Camshaft Tensioner Plate Bolts 28 21 —

Coil to Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 7 ­ 62 file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 70/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Timing Chain Case Cover Bolts 28 21 —

Lifting Stud 55 41 —

Connecting Rod Cap Bolts 21 15 — plus 90° Turn plus 90° Turn

Main Bearing Cap Bolts (Refer to Engine/Engine Block/CRANKSHAFT ­ Installation)

Cylinder Head Bolts (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head ­ Installation)

Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 8 — 71

Exhaust Manifold­to­Cylinder Head 25 18 —

Flexplate­to­Crankshaft Bolts 95 70 —

Flywheel­to­Crankshaft Bolts 75 55 —

Front Insulator Through Bolt/Nut 95 70 —

Through Bolt/Nut (4WD) 102 75 —

Stud Nut (4WD) 41 30 —

Front Insulator­to­Block Bolts (2WD) 95 70 —

Intake Manifold Bolts (Refer ­ Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake – Installation)

Lifter Guide Holder 12 9 —

Oil Pan Bolts 12 9 —

Oil Dipstick Tube 12 9 —

Oil Pan Drain Plug 34 25 —

Oil Pump Attaching Bolts 28 21 —

Oil Pump Pickup Tube Bolt/Nut 28 21 —

Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts 15 11 —

Rear Insulator­to­Bracket Bolt 68 50 —

Rear Insulator­to­Crossmember 41 30 —

Rear Insulator­to­Crossmember Bolt 68 50 —

Rear Insulator­to­Transmission Bolt 68 50 —

Rear Insulator Bracket Bolts 68 50 —

Rear Support Bracket Bolt 41 30 —

Rear Support Plate­to­Transfer Case Bolts 41 30 —

Rocker Arm Bolts 22 16 —

Thermostat Housing Bolts 28 21 —

Throttle Body Bolts 12 9 —

Transfer Case­to­Insulator Bolt 204 150 —

Transmission Support Bracket Bolt 68 50 —

Vibration Damper Bolt 176 130 —

Water Pump­to­Timing Chain Case Cover Bolts 28 21 —

Engine/Engine Block/CRANKSHAFT ­ Installation NOTE: The main cap crossbolts are torqued after final torque of the main cap bolts. Always use a new washer/seal on the crossbolts.

1. Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps (1) making sure the arrow (2) faces forward.

2. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 13 N­m (10 ft. lbs) in the sequence shown.

3. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 27 N·m ( 20 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.

4. Rotate main cap bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 71/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Engine/Cylinder Head ­ Installation

1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. 2. Tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. 3. Tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. 4. Tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. 5. Rotate the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 90° using the sequence shown. 6. Tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown.

Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake – Installation

Install new intake manifold bolts (with thread lock patch) and tighten to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) in the sequence shown.

TORQUE ­ Fuel System, 5.7L

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

Camshaft Position Sensor Mounting Bolts 12 ­ 105

Crankshaft Position Sensor Mounting Bolts 12 ­ 105

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 28 20 ­

Knock Sensor bolt ­ 3.5L 10 7 88.5

Manifold Tuning Valve ­ 3.5L 2.8 ­ 25

Oxygen Sensor 41 30 ­ file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 72/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Powertrain Control Module 4 ­ 35

Throttle Body Mounting ­ 3.5L 5.5 ­ 50

Throttle Body Mounting Bracket ­ 3.5L 27 20 ­

Short Runner Valve ­ 3.5L 6.7 ­ 60

Fuel Rail Bolts ­ 3.5L 28 ­ 250

Fuel Rail Bolts ­ 5.7, 6.1L 11 ­ 100

TORQUE SPEC's 6.1L ENGINE DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

Block Pipe Plugs

(1/4 NPT) 20 15 ­

(3/8 NPT) 27 20 ­

Camshaft Sprocket ­ Bolt 122 90 ­

Camshaft Tensioner Plate ­ Bolts 28 21 ­

Timing Chain Case Cover ­ Bolts 28 21 ­

Lifting Stud 55 40 ­

Connecting Rod Cap ­ Bolts 45 33 ­ plus 60° Turn plus 60° Turn

Main Bearing Cap ­ Bolts

M­12 Bolts 28 21 ­ plus 90° Turn plus 90° Turn

Crossbolts 22 16 ­ M­8 Bolts

Cylinder Head ­ Bolts

NOTE: Follow Installation sequence (Refer to 09 ­ Engine/Cylinder Head ­ Installation) .

M­12 Bolts

Step 1 ­ Tighten bolts 1­10 34 25 ­ Step 1 ­ Tighten bolts 11­15 20 15

Step 2 ­ Tighten bolts 1­1 0 54 40 ­ Step 2 ­ Tighten bolts 11­1 5 verify 20 15

Step 3 ­ Rotate bolts 1­10 90° ­ ­

Step 4 ­ Tighten bolts 11­15 34 25 ­

Cylinder Head Cover ­ Bolts 8 ­ 70

Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head ­ Bolts 31 23 ­

Flexplate to Crankshaft ­ Bolts 95 70 ­

Flywheel to Crankshaft ­ Bolts 75 55 ­

Front Insulator ­ Through bolt/nut 95 70 ­

Front Insulator to Block ­ Bolts 95 70 ­

Generator ­ Mounting Bolt 55 40 ­

Intake Manifold ­ Bolts

NOTE: Follow Installation sequence (Refer to 09 ­ 12 9 106 Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake ­ Installation)

Lifter Guide Holder 12 9 106

Piston Oil Cooler Jet ­ Bolts 13 10 115

Oil Pan ­ Bolts 12 9 105

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 73/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Oil Dipstick Tube 31 23 ­

Oil Pan ­ Drain Plug 27 20 ­

Oil Pump ­ Attaching Bolts 28 21 ­

Oil Pump Pickup Tube ­ Bolt and Nut 28 21 ­

Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts 15 11 ­

Rear Insulator to Bracket 68 50 ­

Rear Insulator to Crossmember 41 30 ­

Rear Insulator to Transmission 68 50 ­

Rear Insulator Bracket ­ Bolts 68 50 ­

Rocker Arm ­ Bolts 22 16 ­

Thermostat Housing ­ Bolts 28 21 ­

Throttle Body ­ Bolts 12 9 105

Vibration Damper ­ Bolt 176 129 ­

Water Pump to Timing Chain Case Cover ­ Bolts

Tip:120 EVIC Chime Stack

Click on this link for a comprehensive look at the EVIC Chime stack and code buffer.

Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) ­ Limp Mode(s)

Temporary Transmission "Limp Home Mode".

The transmission is monitored for abnormal conditions. If a condition is detected that could result in transmission damage, the transmission will engage Limp Home Mode. If vehicle acceleration worsens or the transmission no longer shifts, the transmission is most likely operating in the Limp Home Mode. In this mode, the transmission will remain in the current gear until the vehicle is brought to a stop.

After the vehicle has stopped, PARK, REVERSE, and NEUTRAL will continue to operate. Second gear will operate in the DRIVE position. The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) may be illuminated.

A reset feature is available to allow the vehicle to be driven to an authorized dealer for service.

To reset the transmission, use the following procedure:

1. Stop the vehicle. 2. Move the shift lever into the PARK position. 3. Turn the engine off. 4. Wait approximately 10 seconds. 5. Restart the engine. 6. Move the shift lever into the desired range.

If the problem is no longer detected, the transmission will return to normal operation.

NOTE: Even if the transmission can be reset, we recommend that you visit your authorized dealer at your earliest possible convenience. Your authorized dealer has diagnostic equipment to determine if the problem could recur. Have the transmission checked at your authorized dealer as soon as possible.

If the problem has been momentary, the transmission can be reset to regain all forward gears.

FAQ (Frequently Asked Question)

Q: I have a problem with my Challenger in that I have a CEL (Check Engine Light) and the car is stuck in 2nd gear. I cannot reset the fault (disconnect battery, etc.) and cannot drive the car beyond 30 mpg.!?

A: Yes, as mentioned you have a "hard fault" and the TCM (Transmission Control Module) has put the vehicle in "permanent limp mode". You have a solenoid, speed sensor or under voltage control failure of some kind and the particular ERROR CODE(s) will be stored in the TCM as a DTC.

The Dealer will be able to hook up to this via StarScan/StarMobile Diagnostic mode and see exactly the nature of the failure.

Read the following to understand the six different "limp modes" there are in the NAG1 automatic transmission!

TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM) file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 74/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

CONTROLLER MODES OF OPERATION

*Permanent Limp­In Mode: When the TCM determines there is a non­recoverable condition present that does not allow proper transmission operation, it places the transmission in permanent Limp­In Mode. When the condition occurs the TCM turns off all solenoids as well as the solenoid supply output circuit. If this occurs while the vehicle is moving, the transmission remains in the current gear position until the ignition is turned off or the shifter is placed in the "P" position. When the shifter has been placed in "P," the transmission only allows 2nd gear operation. If this occurs while the vehicle is not moving, the transmission only allows operation in 2nd gear.

*Temporary Limp­In Mode: This mode is the same as the permanent Limp­In Mode except if the condition is no longer present, the system resumes normal operation.

*Under Voltage Limp­In Mode When the TCM detects that system voltage has dropped below 8.5 volts, it disables voltage­dependant diagnostics and places the transmission in the temporary Limp­In Mode. When the TCM senses that the voltage has risen above 9.0 volts, normal transmission operation is resumed.

*Hardware Error Mode: When the TCM detects a major internal error, the transmission is placed in the permanent Limp­In Mode and ceases all communication over the CAN bus. When the TCM has entered this mode normal transmission operation does not resume until all DTCs are cleared from the TCM.

*Loss of Drive: If the TCM detects a situation that has resulted or may result in a catastrophic engine or transmission problem, the transmission is placed in the neutral position. Improper Ratio, Input Sensor Overspeed or Engine Overspeed DTCs cause the loss of drive.

*Controlled Limp­in Mode: When a failure does not require the TCM to shut down the solenoid supply, but the failure is severe enough that the TCM places the transmission into a predefined gear, there are several shift performance concerns. For instance, if the transmission is slipping, the controller tries to place the transmission into 3rd gear and maintain 3rd gear for all forward drive conditions.

The link below provides even more important operational information about the Dodge NAG1 transmission mysterious "Limp Modes" and how they work.

http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/TCM­NAG1.htm

Tip:122 PCM MONITORED COMPONENT

There are several components that will affect vehicle emissions if they malfunction. If one of these components malfunctions the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine) will illuminate. Some of the component monitors are checking for proper operation of the part. Electrically operated components now have input (rationality) and output (functionality) checks as well as continuity tests (opens/shorts).

PCM MONITORED SYSTEM COMPONENTS

Tip:123 KeyLess Go Ignition/Pushbutton functions

No need to try to play around to figure things out here.... Your owner's manual clearly describes Keyless Go operations. If you have Keyless Go, you have EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) as well...

Keyless Go ACC/IGN (ON) Display

2009 Challenger R/T owner's manual (pg. 175) 2009 Challenger SRT owner's manual (pg. 175)

2010 Challenger R/T owner's manual (pg. 181) 2010 Challenger SRT owner's manual (pg. 181)

Keyless Go Display — If Equipped (EVIC)

When the ENGINE START/STOP button is pressed to change ignition switch positions, the Keyless Go icon momentarily appears in the EVIC display showing the new ignition switch position.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 75/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks START:

To change the ignition switch positions without starting the vehicle (do not step on brake) and use the accessories follow these steps.

• Starting with the ignition switch in the OFF position:

• Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to change the ignition switch to the ACC position (EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE ACCESSORY”),

• Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to change the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position (EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE RUN”),

• Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a third time to return the ignition switch to the OFF position (EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE OFF”).

NOTE: Under certain conditions, the display may be superseded by another display of higher priority. But when the ignition switch position is changed, the display always re­appears.

Now, if you not have a digital copy of your owner's manual on your computer, you can easily and quickly download a standard Adobe .PDF file of your model year at;

http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/

Save this document in your MyDocuments folder and then create a shortcut to it from your desktop. You can have this manual up in less than two mouse clicks, and you USE the SEARCH window to locate anything you are looking for in this large document very fast.

For more specific information on the Keyless Go system and possible battery discharge see Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)

Tip:124 TCM Adaptation ­ NAG1 Only TCM ADAPTATION ­ NAG1 Only

The adaptation procedure requires the use of the appropriate scan tool. This program allows the electronic transmission system to re­calibrate itself. This will provide the proper baseline transmission operation. The adaptation procedure should be performed if any of the following procedures are performed:

Transmission Assembly Replacement Transmission Control Module Replacement Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement Electrohydraulic Unit Replacement or Recondition

1. With the scan tool, reset the Transmission adaptives. Resetting the adaptives will set the adaptives to factory settings.

NOTE: Perform the Coast Down Adaptations first. The Transmission Temperature must be greater than 60°C (140°F) and less than 70°C (158°F). Failure to stay within these temperature ranges will void the procedure. 2. Drive the vehicle until the transmission temperature is in the specified range. 3. Perform 4 to 5 coast downs from 5th to 4th gear and then 4th to 3rd gear.

NOTE: For Upshift adaptation, the Transmission temperature must be greater than 60°C (140°F) and less than 100°C (212°F). Failure to stay within these temperature ranges will void this procedure. 4. From a stop, moderately accelerate the vehicle and obtain all forward gear ranges while keeping the Engine RPM below 1800 RPM. Repeat this procedure 4 to 5 times. 5. Obtaining 5th gear may be difficult at 1800 RPM. Allow the transmission to shift into 5th gear at a higher RPM then lower the RPM to 1800 and perform manual shifts between 4th and 5th gears using the shift lever. 6. The TCM will store the adaptives every 10 minutes. After completion of the adaptation procedure make sure the vehicle stays running for at least 10 minutes. 7. It is possible to manually store the adaptives under the 10 minute time frame using the scan tool Store Adaptives procedure.

Tip:125 Oil Change Required Light and how it works

The main computer in the vehicle has the ability to model or trend the condition of the engine oil and accurately predict when the oil should be changed.

How is this done? Here is what the owner's manual says.

"The engine oil change indicator system is duty cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style."

Duty cycle is not a time period per se', but event(s) occurring in either a fixed or variable frequency time base as a percentage of that specific time base (example 25% or 80% duty cycle). In other words, the duty cycle is the fraction of time that a system is in an "active" state. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 76/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks In particular its use in the following context: In a periodic phenomenon, the ratio of the duration of the phenomenon in a given period to the period.

Duty cycle (D) = T1 / T2

where;

T1 is the duration that the function is "active high" (normally when signal is greater than zero); Τ2 is the period of the function.

Note: T2 may not be a "fixed" time period.

What does all this mean? It means that the PCM or in this case NGC (Next Generation Controller) can accurately model the quality of the engine oil and use this in its overall algorithm to evaluate or "rationalize" engine oil quality. It is this rationalization of the required inputs from sensors that the NGC controllers rise above their previous power train control modules (PCM). So the NGC is looking at several inputs to use these in factors in determining oil quality.

This is done during the "cooling down" period of time subsequent to a engine shutdown. This cooling down period is mentioned several times in evaluation of DTC's or rationalizations of several systems monitored by the NGC. This period of time for cool down is 480 min's or 8 hours. At the end of this time period, a "cool down" event has ended.

The owner's manual and the service manual for the 2008­2010 model Challengers does not describe how this system works. It only describes some aspects of how it makes the "Change Oil Required" warning lamp to illuminate.

Since the Oil Condition Trend Algorithm is a patented process, there are some strong similarities in how the OCT is developed in the Dodge Challenger NGC system. The sensors "required" to do this are indeed present and available to the NGC. Part of the process is indeed described in the Service Manual (2009 Service Information (LC) Challenger p/n 81­270­09041­CD) in different areas of electronic descriptions for DTC and monitored component. But, alas specific the details describing the exact modeling are not available to the public. I suspect this is due to the United States Patent #6509749.

Irregardless, the modeling algorithm is there and some associated aspects need to be described.

1. If you change oil before the "Oil Change Required" light comes on, the NGC will not know or detect this. It will only affect the results of the modeling algorithm and perhaps delay the outcome until "limits" are reached (ie. monitored mileage, etc.)

2. If you change your own oil you should "reset" the NGC so that it will begin a "new" modeling period. See Tip:38 Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:

3. If you change your own oil at predetermined mileage intervals that are prior to recommended periods then this is academic and you simply reset the OCR system as is needed to avoid the nuisance display warnings.

Oil Condition Trend Algorithm United States Patent 6509749

An algorithm by which a time normalized oil condition trend (OCT) is developed. During engine off periods, while the engine is cooling, the vehicle's main computer program implements the trend algorithm according to the present invention by which engine oil conductivity (oil sensor output voltage) and temperature data are obtained in a specified temperature range, and are then input into a cool down equation to determine its coefficients using nonlinear regression.

This cool down equation models oil conductivity as a function of temperature and is used at a specified time during an engine­on period to calculate an OCT point.

Collectively, these OCT points determine the oil condition trend that is analyzed by a procedure called from the vehicle's main computer program to determine when an oil change is necessary.

The method of wherein the cool down equation of said step of generating is given by V=aT2+bT+c

Wherein;

V is a voltage output of the oil condition sensor. T is a plurality of temperatures selected over said range of cooling. a, b and c are constants.

Source: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6509749.html Document: Download PDF 6509749 file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 77/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

In conclusion;

In the Challenger NGC (PCM) is a software routine (ie. mathematical modeling algorithm) that over time evaluates the number of cool­down cycles, WOT modes, engine runtime hours (start cycles, etc) and mileage factors.

Like the description above, the NGC also monitors oil “conductivity” to learn and track the moisture content which degrades oil viscosity and lubrication ability over time. Using the oil pressure, oil temperature and other vital engine sensor inputs the PCM (NGC) can determine the engine oil viscosity.

Incorrect viscosity will affect the operation of the MDS by delaying cylinder activation.

Tip:126 FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)

The following descriptions will describe how the FOBIK when used as a "key" may become stuck where it cannot be removed. Some of this by design is for safety purposes and others may be due to dead battery state.

FOBIK REMOVAL INHIBIT FUNCTION The key removal inhibit solenoid internal to the WIN prevents the FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) from being rotated in the ignition switch to the LOCK position for all vehicles with an automatic transmission unless the transmission shift lever is in the PARK position.

Automatic or Manual Transmission:

The WIN module monitors a hard wired input from a switch integral to the automatic “transmission shifter module” to control this feature. The key removal inhibit solenoid is electronically disabled internally by the WIN on vehicles with a “manual transmission”.

FOBIK TRAPPED IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)

The FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) cannot be rotated to the LOCK position, allowing it to be removed from the ignition switch also referred to as Wireless Ignition Node (WIN).

The automatic transmission is shifted mechanically through a cable from the gearshift lever mechanism to the transmission or transaxle valve body. A gated park switch is physically located on and integral to the gearshift lever mechanism and is hard wired directly to the WIN.

The gated park switch is a simple plunger­like actuated open or closed contact switch that could be considered redundant to the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) except that it monitors the position selected with the gearshift lever, while the TRS monitors the position or gear of the transmission that is actually engaged. A damaged or improperly adjusted gearshift cable could result in a different gear being engaged than that which is selected.

The WIN uses the gated park switch input to control an internal key lock solenoid, which controls whether the FOBIK can be rotated to the LOCK position. When the gearshift lever is not in the PARK position, the gated park switch is a closed circuit, the key lock solenoid is energized and the FOBIK cannot be rotated to the LOCK position for removal.

NOTE: If your vehicle has a completely dead battery, and you used the valet key to get inside the vehicle and note that nothing is working, in placing the FOBIK in the WIN and trying to see if you can “start” the engine (nothing happens on dead battery) you may find that the FOBIK has now become "trapped" in the WIN and cannot be removed.

By trying to force the FOBIK out with brute force will only damage the WIN module and it will need to be subsequently replaced.

You will have to CHARGE the vehicles battery up enough to see activity on the EVIC at which time you should be able to get the "solenoid pin" to activate and release the FOBIK from the WIN.

Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!

IF you do much with your vehicle on door panels, spoilers, rear fascia or anything with those dang plastic pins, rivets and clips you need to find a place that carries an excellent selection. You will be in for severe sticker shock if you choose to go to the dealer for some of these inexpensive parts!

Look at the index below and associated Dodge part number(s).

Bookmark this following link; ClipsAndFasteners.com ­ Automotive Retainers, Clips and Fasteners

TRIM PANEL RETAINER Mopar PN 3691950 Fender & Bumper Shield Retainer Black Nylon Head Diameter: 11/16" Stem Diameter: 5/16" Stem Length: 5/8" Replaces GM: 332364; Ford: 389358; Chrysler: 3691590, 6031321; AMC: 4004569 50 Per Package @ $5.02

FENDER MUDSKIRT Mopar PN 34201621 Head Diameter: 11/16" Panel Range: 9/16" Fits Into 1/4" Hole Replaces GM #14019205 & Chrysler #34201621 50 Per Package @ $5.99

Chrysler Push Type Retainer Mopar PN 5160260­AA file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 78/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Rear Bumper, Tail Light and Fender Push­Type Retainer Black Nylon Head Diameter: 18mm Stem Length: 20mm Fits Into 8mm Hole Replaces Chrysler: 5160260­AA Dodge Caliber and Jeep Compass & Patriot 2007 – On 15 Per Package @ $7.79

Chrysler Push Type Door Panel Retainer Mopar PN OWX68BD1­AA Door Trim Panel Push­Type Retainer Tan Nylon Head Diameter: 22mm Stem Length: 10mm Fits Into 9mm Hole Replaces Chrysler: OWX68BD1­AA 300M and Dodge Charger & Magnum 2005 ­ On 25 Per Package @ $11.20

Chrysler Door Panel Retainer (Male) A20274 Door Panel Retainer White Nylon Top Head Diameter: 13mm Bottom Head Diameter: 23mm Stem Diameter: 6.5mm Stem Length: 20mm Use With A20275 Chrysler LH Series 2000 ­ On 25 Per Package @ $6.56

Chrysler Door Panel Retainer (Female) A20275 Door Panel Grommet White Nylon Head Diameter: 19mm Stem Length: 12mm Fits Into 9mm Hole Use With A20274 Chrysler LH Series 2000 ­ On 25 Per Package @ $5.54

1/4" (6.3mm) Black Nylon Black Rivets,

Mopar PN 6500911 Fits 1/4" (6.6mm) Hole Panel Range (grip) 5/32" ­ 13/32" Flange Size: 43/64" Black Nylon Replaces G.M. # 14063981, Ford N803043­S & Chrysler 6500911 25 Per Package @ $4.99

Push Type Retainer Chrysler Mopar PN 6503598 Head Diameter: 20mm Stem Length: 20mm Fits Into 5/16" (8mm) Hole GM Saturn 2 Door & 4 Door Models Replaces GM # 21030249, Ford # N807389S And Chrysler # 6503598 25 Per Package @ $4.79

Tip:128 Dash Power Plug Modification Modify dash power plug (cigarette lighter plug) to always be powered like the one inside the center console.

The dash plug below the Radio is tied to the AUX power system and will be powered off at about an hour after you shut the car off. To make the cigarette lighter power connector be "hot" even with the car off go to the PDC (Power Distribution Center) Fuse Box in your trunk and open it. (It's located in the spare tire well.)

When you open the fuse box, look on the inside of the fuse box lid and you will see a numbered layout of the fuses.

Look for Fuse #18 with letters "IGN" (Ignition) label printed on the plastic right below it. It will be a bright yellow 20­amp fuse that is offset from the other 4 or 5 in its particular row. Unplug it, and plug it into the first two holes so that it is in line with the rest of the fuses in that little row (undo its offset).

Now your cigarette lighter in the dash will be powered all the time. The best part about this fuse, is that when you place it in the "Always On" block, it frees up that previous accessory connection that you can use for another "Remote Wire" connection on something like an amplifier, since there isn't one coming off of the head unit on our stock radios.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 79/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Description: Description: Description: http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/09_Challenger/PWR_REAR_DIST_SRT8.jpg

Tip:129 NAG1 Automatic Transmission Fill

[The following tip is provided courtesy of Kruzer.]

To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:

1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.

2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.

3. Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:

a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 5.0 L (10.6pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.

b. If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 7.7 L (16.3 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.

4. Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 ­ Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic ­ NAG1/FLUID and FILTER ­ Standard Procedure) and adjust as required.

FLUID/FILTER SERVICE

Fluid/Filter Service Points file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 80/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks 1 ­ OIL FILTER 2 ­ OIL PAN GASKET 3 ­ OIL PAN 4 ­ RETAINER 5 ­ BOLT

1. Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating temperature.

2. Raise and support vehicle.

3. Remove the bolts (5) and retainers (4) holding the oil pan to the transmission.

4. Remove the transmission oil pan (3) and gasket (2) from the transmission.

5. Remove the transmission oil filter (1) and o­ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.

6. Clean the inside of the oil pan (3) of any debris. Inspect the oil pan gasket (2) and replace if necessary.

7. Install a new oil filter (1) and o­ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.

8. Install the oil pan (3) and gasket (2) onto the transmission.

9. Install the oil pan bolts (5) and retainers (4). Torque the bolts to 8 N·m (70 in.lbs.).

10. Lower the vehicle and add 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) of transmission fluid to the transmission.

11. Check the oil level (Refer to 21 ­ Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic ­ NAG1/FLUID and FILTER ­ Standard Procedure) .

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

NOTE: Refer to Service Procedures in this group for fluid level checking procedures.

Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid is the recommended fluid for Chrysler automatic transmissions.

Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch chatter can result from the use of improper fluid.

Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.

FLUID ADDITIVES

Chrysler strongly recommends against the addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than those automatic transmission fluids listed above. Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes to aid in detecting fluid leaks.

Various “special” additives and supplements exist that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These additives and others also claim to improve converter clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation, varnish, and sludge. These claims have not been supported to the satisfaction of Chrysler and these additives must not be used. The use of transmission “sealers” should also be avoided, since they may adversely affect the integrity of transmission seals.

NOTE: See also Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission Level Checking (AUTO)

Tip:130 Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?

HELP?! An old cd stuck in mygig!

I finally got around to loading up a bunch of CD’s in MYGig model RER in my 2010 SRT8. The first 4 CD’s went fine until I loaded in an old scratched Door’s CD.

Now it looks like its stuck in some type of loop trying to read the CD and it will not "eject".

I have been pushing the stop soft button many times, the open/close hard button. Turned it off then back on many times. I lost at this point. Anyone have an issue like this where you cannot get the CD out. It just says “cannot open during recording” or something like that and it says recording 0%..

I don’t see anything in the manual. HELP!

Answer: For RER (Nav Enabled MyGIG Radios) ­ Press the SEEKUP ­ SEEKDOWN ­ and NAV hard keys on the radio all at the same time to eject the CD.

For REN (Non Nav Enabled MyGIG Radios) ­ Press the SEEKUP ­ SEEKDOWN ­ and AUDIO hard keys on the radio all at the same time to eject the CD

Need more help? Go to http://mofv.com/mygig/

Fixed!? file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 81/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Thanks all, I could not stand it anymore, so late last night I went out and pushed the open/close button and it opened and out comes the old CD...

Tip:131 Custom FOBIK covers

For those interested in protecting those expensive electronic keys, there is a vendor that provides a good selection of different colored slip­on RKE covers. IF your FOBIK is going to be subjected to a number of different conditions, wet fingers, dirty hands, etc, this looks like a good way to protect that key!

http://www.thejacketstore.com/servlet/StoreFront

Tip:132 Uconnect Phone Compatibility List

For those with mobile phones and a need to see the "Uconnect" compatibility listing to see if you or a spouse's phone is support through the Uconnect feature in your Challenger (or Dodge vehicle 2007­2009), go to the following link for a current list;

https://www.dodge.com/en/owners/pdf/download/Phone_Compatibility_Document.pdf

Tip:133 Challenger CHIME WARNING SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION:

The chime warning system uses an electromechanical transducer and an electromechanical relay that are soldered onto the electronic circuit board inside of the CCN (Cab Compartment Node).

The CCN is also known as the vehicle’s dash “Instrument Cluster”. The system provides an audible indication of various vehicle conditions that may require the attention of the vehicle operator or occupants. The CCN also includes the hardware and software necessary to serve as the electronic body control module and is sometimes referred to as the Cab Compartment Node or CCN.

The electromechanical transducer generates beep tones and chime tones, while the electromechanical relay generates click tones to emulate the sounds associated with conventional turn signal and hazard warning flasher operation. The microprocessor­based CCN utilizes electronic chime request messages received from other modules in the vehicle over the CAN (Controller Area Network) data bus along with hardwired inputs to monitor many sensors and switches throughout the vehicle. In response to those inputs, the circuitry and programming of the CCN allow it to control the audible outputs that are produced through its on­board transducer and relay.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 82/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks OPERATION (CHIME WARNING SYSTEM)

The chime warning system operates on battery voltage received through a fuse in the Junction Block (JB) on a non­switched fused B(+) circuit so that the system may operate regardless of the ignition switch position. The chime warning system also monitors the ignition switch position so that some chime features are functional only with the ignition switch in the On position, while others are functional regardless of the ignition switch position.

The chime warning system provides an audible indication to the vehicle operator or occupants under the following conditions:

Airbag Indicator Warning ­ The Instrument Cluster also known as the Cab Compartment Node (CCN) transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position, and an electronic message is received over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus from the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) requesting “Airbag” indicator illumination. This warning will only occur following completion of the “Airbag” indicator bulb test, and will only occur once during any ignition cycle.

Compass Mini­Trip Computer Global Reset ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus from the optional Compass Mini­Trip Computer (CMTC) requesting that the CMTC average fuel economy, trip odometer and distance to empty data be reset. The CMTC monitors hard wired inputs from the U.S./Metric and Reset button switches to determine the proper reset messages to send to the CCN.

Door Ajar Indicator Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position, a hardwired input is received indicating that the status of any door ajar switch has changed, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus indicating that the vehicle is moving.

Fasten Seat Belt Indicator Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to announce that a hardwired input from the seat belt switch indicates that the driver side front seat belt is not fastened with the ignition switch in the On position. The chime warning system also supports the enhanced seat belt reminder (beltminder) when this feature is enabled.

Gate Ajar Indicator Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position, a hardwired input is received indicating that the status of the liftgate ajar or trunk lid switch has changed, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus indicating that the vehicle is moving.

Head/Park Lamps­On Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a fast rate to indicate that hardwired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the headlamp switch, and the ignition switch indicate that the exterior lamps are turned On with the driver side front door opened and the ignition switch in the Off position. The chimes will continue to sound until the exterior lamps are turned Off, the driver side front door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to the On position, whichever occurs first.

Key­In­Ignition Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a fast rate to indicate that hardwired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the ignition switch, and the key­in ignition switch circuitry of the ignition switch indicate that the key is in the ignition lock cylinder with the driver side front door open and the ignition switch in the Off position. The chimes will continue to sound until the key is removed from the ignition lock cylinder, the driver side front door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to the On position, whichever occurs first.

Low Fuel Indicator Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the low fuel indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. This chime will only occur once during any ignition cycle.

Low Wash Indicator Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the low washer fluid indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. This chime will only occur once during any ignition cycle.

Overspeed Warning (Middle East) ­ The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to indicate that the vehicle speed is over a pre­programmed speed value. The CCN monitors electronic vehicle speed messages received over the CAN data bus. This feature is only enabled on an CCN that has been programmed with a Middle East Gulf Coast Country (GCC) code.

Park Brake Reminder ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime to announce that the hardwired input from the parking brake switch and a vehicle speed message input received over the CAN data bus indicate that the parking brake is applied and the vehicle is moving. This chime will repeat each time the input conditions are met.

Sentry Key “Customer Learn” Mode Announcement ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime to confirm that an electronic “Customer Learn” mode message has been received over the CAN data bus to indicate that the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) is prepared for programming additional sentry key transponders. This chime feature is only active on vehicles equipped with the optional Sentry Key system, and sold in a market where “Customer Learn” programming is an allowed feature.

Trans Overtemp Indicator Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate when the transmission overtemp indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster for a high or critical transmission fluid temperature condition. This chime will repeat each time the trans overtemp indicator is cycled from Off to On.

Turn Signal/Hazard Warning Flasher Emulation ­ The CCN relay will generate repetitive clicks at a slow rate to emulate an electromechanical flasher when the turn signal or hazard warning system are operating. The CCN relay will generate repetitive clicks at a fast rate to indicate that the right or left turn signal are operating with one or more bulbs inoperative. In either case, the clicks will continue until the turn signal and hazard warning systems are turned off.

Turn Signal On Warning ­ The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to indicate that a turn signal has been active continuously for 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) with the vehicle speed greater than 22 kilometers­per­hour (15 miles­per hour). Vehicles built for markets other than the United States and Canada have a revised distance threshold of 4 kilometers for this feature. The chime will continue until the turn signal input becomes inactive or until the vehicle speed message indicates that the speed is less than 22 kilometers­per­hour (15 miles­ per­hour), whichever occurs first. The hazard warning flashers will not activate this chime feature.

Warning Indicator Announcement ­ The CCN transducer will generate one short chime each time the check gauges indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. The check gauges indicator may be illuminated when any critical engine or transmission systems are operating outside of their normal parameters. The instrument cluster monitors electronic messages received over the CAN data bus to determine when to illuminate the check gauges indicator.

The CCN provides chime service for all available features in the chime warning system.

The CCN relies upon its internal programming, numerous hardwired inputs, and electronic message inputs received from other modules over the CAN data bus network to provide the chime warning system features. The internal programming of the CCN determines the priority of each chime request input that is received, as well as the rate and duration of each chime that is to be generated. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 83/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks The hardwired chime warning system inputs to the CCN may be diagnosed and tested using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. However, conventional diagnostic methods may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the CCN, the CAN data bus, or the electronic messages received by the CCN from other modules.

The most reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose the CCN, the CAN data bus, or the electronic message inputs used for the chime warning system requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

Tip:134 EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INTEGRITY MONITOR (ESIM)

The ESIM is part of the overall emissions control and controls fumes from the fuel to escape to the atmosphere.

During refueling, pressure is built up in the evaporative system. When pressure approximately .5 inches of water, the large check valve unseats and pressure vents to the fresh air filter.

Conversely, when the system cools and the resulting vacuum lifts the small check valve from its seat and allows fresh air to enter the system and relieve the vacuum condition. When a calibrated amount of vacuum is achieved in the evaporative system, the diaphragm is pulled inward, pushing on the spring and closing the contacts.

The ESIM conducts test on the evaporative system as follows: An engine off, non­intrusive test for small leaks and an engine running, intrusive test for medium/large leaks.

OPERATION

The ESIM (Evaporative System Integrity Monitor) is very similar to the earlier NVLD (Natural Vacuum Leak Detection) system.

However, the design of the ESIM has been simplified and unlike the NVLD the ESIM does not require a solenoid. The ESIM mounts directly to the canister, eliminating the need for a mounting bracket. It is critical that the ESIM is mounted vertically. On vehicles where the canister is mounted on an angle, the ESIM requires an adaptor to maintain a vertical position.

More detailed information can be found at: http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/ESIM_EVAP.htm

Tip:135 Challenger Trunk Cargo Net Mod

Below is a method of attaching/installing a badly needed CARGO NET. I wanted to be able to stick a box or bags of items in the trunk and not have them fly around OR COME on through the back seat (as they easily fold down if you check).

The pictures at the link below are one of many ways I'm sure of doing this mod but I've not seen anyone attack the problem yet, so here is one way I approached this. You have two sturdy stud mounts for the rear taillights (1/4" coarse thread) with two rather large plastic retaining wing nuts. The other two for the taillight are behind the trunk molding and are not readily accessible in case you have to change a taillight bulb.

So in looking at anchor points for a cargo net, these are the only viable points I can readily see to use.

I looked at the stock large plastic wing nut and I guess if you wanted, you could hang the net loops behind it and screw the nut down on them but I didn't think that was a good method so I looked around.

I found a GM cargo net hook/nut and threaded it to fit the Challenger, but the unit is a tad too small to handle the double loops of a good quality net so I made my own out of 304 stainless 1/8 in flat stock 1­1/8 in x 2­1/4 in and made a 45 deg. bend in center.

Note the double recessed hook design to accommodate double loop netting. (see pictures at link below) You may get ideas of your own here.

http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Challenger%20Cargo%20Net%20Mod.htm

Tip:136 The Custom UltraViolet SunShield

I have used several so far in looking at one that I feel is the best for my vehicle. I did not care if the price was 20 bucks or $50 bucks as I wanted the Best for my Challenger. It gets freaking hot as holy hell in my car and I can fry bacon on my dashboard....

No wonder my FOBIK quit working when the interior gets 120+deg.F

Ok, here is what I found as a perfect fit, custom, folding and although a bit pricey, it is high quality and a good buy.

It will take about 2­3 weeks to get it, as they are custom made and are very high quality. And you will NOTICE that the vehicle is much cooler, not "cold" but considerably cooler and your seat belt buckle won't give you 2nd degree burns when you try to buckle up....

NOTE: I bought one of these for my 2009 Challenger R/T vehicle.

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 84/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

#97313 ­ Ultraviolet Heat Shield 2008­2009 Dodge Challenger ­ All Trim Levels

http://www.drivingcomfort.com/ultrav...eat­shield.cfm

Note: I noted that there is no part number for 2010 Challengers? I really do not know why as there are no interior differences between the model years 2008­2009 to 2010. So if you have a 2010 and want one, order a 2009 part number above and I would be extremely surprised if for some reason the windshield screen did not fit. I cannot see why it would not fit as the windshield and dash are the same size(s).

Tip:137 Change your steering wheel badge!

For those of us who don't want the rams head, there is a nice little "upgrade" for some. Here's a site for 3­d decals for various applications including steering wheel badge. http://www.eu­decals.com/ with reasonable prices. They have both R/T and SRT. You have to remove the rams head, and if you pry it off, it can damage the area surrounding it so you will have to unbolt it.

Installation

It's a bit involved, but not terrible.

First, remove the two bolts holding the airbag assembly/center cover to the wheel. If you look at the rear of the wheel spokes, you will see two tapered openings with a couple 10mm head bolts in them. Once you loosen those 2 bolts, the whole airbag assembly will be loose to pull out. Pull it out a SHORT DISTANCE. You will need to disconnect the horn wire at the top, and the two firing connectors to the airbag before pulling it out very far. There isn't a lot of wire there. Don't yank it loose!

Once the airbag and cover are completely loose, flip it face down and you'll notice the rubbery cover has a number of square holes inside the portion that attaches to the metal frame. Push in at the front of the cover while prying gently outwards at the corresponding point all the way around the cover until all the holes in the airbag cover are loose from the frame. The frame and airbag can now be removed from the cover and the airbag and frame set aside.

Look at the back of the cover. There are two circuit boards bonded to the inside of the cover.

This is different from the Charger/Magnum crowd ­08 and down. Don't know about '09. You will be able to see the attachments for the emblem if you look in the space between the two circuit boards. There are three metal clips that hold the emblem on. The one that can be easily seen in the gap between those circuit boards is pretty simple to get loose using an angled pick tool. The other two are under one of the circuit boards. The boards with the horn contacts are clear plastic with the horn contacts and circuits bonded to them. Since they are clear, you'll be able to see the other two clips on the emblem, but they are difficult to get at.

There is enough space to reach behind the boards with a 90 degree pick tool and slowly work them off of the emblem. Be careful not to let the tool slip and nick up the horn circuit bonded to the board near the clips.

Some people have managed to just pull the emblem loose, but that leaves those 3 clips floating around inside the cover where they will eventually fall down and start to rattle. There is the possibility that these loose plastic clips will find their way down into the turn signal stalk switch contact assembly and cause the auto­cancel to no longer work correctly. It also makes it likely that you will rip or distort the cover.

Once the emblem is off, re­assemble the wheel completely. Get some rubbing alcohol and clean the area a couple times where the emblem was. Let dry and bond the new emblem in place.

Took about 15­20 minutes to do. So it is more about patience here.

Tip:138 Courtesy Light Wiring Information (Interior Lighting Mod)

Courtesy Light Wiring (C204) Information;

For those installing footwell LED strip lights under the dash to illuminate the front floorboards. This info would be useful to anyone who wants to tie into the cabin area courtesy light circuit. This way your additional footwell lighting or LED strips will work along with the cabin area lighting control.

There is a connector behind the Passenger side "A" Pillar, and if you tap into the wire Yellow with White Stripe, connector terminal position #6, that will give you 12V (+) and connector terminal 12, Black with Green Stripe will give you the Ground (­).

Here's a connector pin out below;

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 85/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

Tip:139 Manual 6­speed transmission drain and refill (TR6060)

From the Dodge Challenger Service Manual:

CAUTION: Hypoid gear lube must not be used in this transmission. Use of hypoid gear lube will cause hard shifting effort/transmission failure. Use only approved lubricant as noted below.

1. With vehicle transmission neutral, position vehicle on hoist or lift.

2. Remove belly pan to gain access to transmission area.

3. Remove drain plug located on the right side of the transmission tail housing.

4. Remove transmission fill plug located on the left side of the transmission case. Drain all oil.

5. Install drain plug into tail housing and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).

6. Fill transmission with Mopar ® ATF + 4. The transmission is full when the fluid level is even with the bottom of the fill hole.

Note: Capacity is approximately 4 qts but, to be safe buy 5. I would also recommend going to Amsoil full synthetic fluid (used in Viper) or Redline D4. These have been known to "improve" shifting.

7. Install transmission fill plug (1) and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).

8. Install belly pan.

The Dodge manual says to change the fluid in the manual transmission every 24,000 miles

Tip:140 Manual Gear Shift Tip(s)

I had heard these before but it's actually mentioned in the Dodge Challenger's Owner's Manual.

Do not rest your hand on the gear shift as it can damage the synchronizers over time.

Resting your hand on the gearshift lever imparts an additional thrust load on the shift fork and sleeve for whatever gear you happen to be in (most often it seems to be 4th) and accelerates the wear between the two.

Another tip is not to leave your foot on the clutch even a bit as you drive, it's not a dead pedal and it is either on or off (hydraulic assisted).

Failure to press the clutch pedal fully to the floor may cause increased shift efforts, and may result in damage to the clutch and transmission.

Ref: 2010 Dodge Challenger Owner's Manual pg. 246 ­ Starting and Operating.

See also: Tip:60 SKIPSHIFT: Modification to eliminate 1­4 shifting (Manual).

file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 86/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks Tip:141 Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger

Why use a Fumoto drain valve?

1. Reduces Oil Changing Time and Expense. 2. No adapter needed. 3. It screws in place of the oil plug. 4. Buy the hose ­ allows alternate drain path for those without large catch pans. 5. It's threaded to screw in correctly. 6. Won't touch anything ­clears belly pan. 7. It's a simple easy to use piece, nothing difficult for typical installations. 8. F106N unit has the nipple fitting end. (attach hose if desired)

Fumoto Nipple Type Oil Drain Valve 'F­106N' (14mm­1.5)

Amazon.com $25.95:

More information on Valve and hose installation at the following; Link at: http://www.qwikvalve.com/F106N­14mm­1.5­w­nipple.html

Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)

Read the following for Keyless Go Start operations, troubleshooting and programming tips.

CHALLENGER/KEYLESS GO BUTTON OPERATION AND POSSIBLE VEHICLE BATTERY DISCHARGE!

DISCUSSION: If equipped, the Challenger is shipped with a Keyless GO Button in the vehicle’s glove box. This feature, if the customer chooses to have it installed, will allow the driver to operate the ignition switch without the need to physically install the FOBIK into the ignition switch. The GO Button is packaged in a plastic bag with an instruction card. The instruction card explains how to operate the GO Button once it has been installed to the ignition switch.

The instruction card should be reviewed with the customer during vehicle delivery and then placed into the owner’s manual for future reference. With the GO Button installed into the ignition switch and the FOBIK in the vehicle interior, the GO Button (like the FOBIK it substitutes) will allow one or more of the following ignition switch modes. With the brake pedal not depressed (foot off brake pedal) the following ignition switch modes can occur: accessory, run, and off.

With the brake pedal depressed the following ignition switch modes can occur: start­run, and off.

NOTE: INFORM THE CUSTOMER THE VEHICLE BATTERY IS DISCHARGING WHENEVER THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FEATURE IS IN EITHER THE “ACCESSORY” OR THE “RUN” MODE. THE “ACCESSORY” OR “RUN” MODE WILL REMAIN ACTIVE UNTIL THE “OFF” MODE IS SELECTED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE ENGINE IS STARTED.

IF THE DEALER OR VEHICLE OWNER FAILS TO ACTIVATE THE “OFF” MODE, AND EXITS/LEAVES THE VEHICLE WITH THE FOBIK, THEN THE “ACCESSORY” OR “RUN” MODE WILL STILL BE ACTIVE AND MAY COMPLETELY DISCHARGE THE VEHICLE BATTERY.

TO INSTALL THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FOLLOW THESE STEPS:

1. Remove the GO Button package from the vehicle glove box.

2. Position the lettering on the GO Button so that it is horizontal and readable. The GO Button has the words “ENGINE START / STOP” on the face of the button.

3. Gently insert the GO Button into the ignition switch receptacle by pressing on the center of the button.

4. If the button slips in easily, then it has been installed correctly. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 87/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks

5. Press firmly on the center of the GO Button to seat the button into the ignition switch receptacle. The Keyless GO Button can be removed at any time. Remove the GO Button if the use of the FOBIK is desired to operate the ignition switch (instead of the GO Button).

TO REMOVE THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FOLLOW THESE STEPS

1. The GO Button may be removed using the valet key from the FOBIK as a thin tool. 2. Insert the metal part of the valet key under the chrome bezel at the 6 o’clock position. 3. Gently pry the GO Button from the ignition switch.

THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON (ENGINE START / STOP) FUNCTIONS

With the driver’s foot OFF of the brake pedal, transmission selector in the PARK position and the FOBIK must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle:

1. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to activate the ACCESSORY mode which will allow operation of the radio, wipers, and windows.

2. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to activate the RUN mode which will allow the operation of the heating/air conditioning (HVAC) controls, and Instrument Cluster.

3. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a third time to activate the OFF mode

With the driver’s foot ON the brake pedal (brake pedal depressed), transmission selector in the PARK (or NEUTRAL) position, and the FOBIK must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle:

1. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to activate the START­RUN mode. The engine will start. 2. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to activate the OFF mode. The engine will stop.

NORMAL STARTING:

To start the engine, the transmission must be in PARK or NEUTRAL, and the FOBIK must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Press and hold the brake pedal while pressing the ENGINE START/STOP button once. The system (TIP START feature) takes over and attempts to start the vehicle engine.

If the vehicle engine fails to start, the starter will disengage automatically after ten (10) seconds.

If you wish to stop the cranking of the engine prior to the engine starting (within ten seconds) then press the ENGINE START/STOP button again.

Programming and troubleshooting new FOBIK's, and WIN and PEM modules

Troubleshooting: One FOBIK works with the start button but my other FOBIK says "Key not detected" and will not start the vehicle. It will however start the vehicle with the FOBIK used as a key directly into the WIN module.

If it starts with both FOBIK's in the slot (WIN) and is used as a standard key, but only starts with one using the push button and "errors out" on the other I will would safely bet that one FOBIK is has a problem. Now, if this is a NEW FOBIK that they (dealer tech) just "programmed" I would bet that they did not "associate" the new/non working FOBIK with the PEM (Personal Entry Module).

If it "push button start" works with one FOBIK, then the PEM is usually good.

If you have both FOBIKS in the vehicle during testing, this can be confusing as to which one is bad or has a problem. Use aluminum foil to completely wrap a FOBIK (transponder) to shield it from the low frequency signal detection of the PEM module. This method can be used to independently test each FOBIK for proper operation.

Dealer tech programming:

There is one extra step on the Keyless Entry (push button start) cars that a lot of techs do not realize HAS got to be done when replacing/programming FOBIK's. After it is programmed to the WIN module, that same FOBIK ALSO has to be "associated" to the PEM as a separate step by going into the PEM with the Scantool. Forgetting this will give "not found" errors when using the push button and this FOBIK as it has not be "mated" to the PEM module.

NOTE: The Keyless Go (push button start) system actually can utilize 3 different antenna systems on two different control modules (WIN and PEM) to "validate" a "start command" message to be sent via CANBUS to the PCM to initiate an engine "start" sequence.

For a comprehensive listing of Dodge Challenger KeyLess Go Entry System "tips and tricks" click here.

Tip:143 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights turn on

Was fiddling around with my HID headlight adjustments because they were coming on too late (too dark) for my preference.

This is for those who have the EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) option.

­ Key ON. (Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not).

­ Hold the compass and music note key on steering wheel together for about 5­6 seconds

­ Move the up arrow (or down arrow if you prefer) on the left hand side of your steering wheel. For this exercise, we'll be toggling the "up" arrow

­ First stop is a Digital tach, if you're running your engine, you can see how steady it idles. Also some other digital readings. file:///C:/Users/Mark%20Koeppen/Downloads/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.html 88/140 3/8/2015 Top Challenger Tips and Tricks ­ Next toggle is temp and a cool Chinese character believe it or not. My son, who takes Mandarin lessons, informs me it is the symbol for "peace". It might mean "piece", but we're not sure.

­ Next toggle is compass digital readings

­ Next toggle is MinL and MinR stuff. This is sensor information on left/right fuel tank levels. The Lt and Rt unit number is in PINTS (8 pts = 1 gal.). The total fuel capacity is 19 gals.

­ next toggle is now your headlight sensor adjustment page.

Note the following;

On the left hand side of your steering wheel, you can adjust the HID sensitivity (when it comes on automatically) in units of 2. You adjust with the arrow that points to the right on the left side of your steering wheel. I believe this is a lumens unit but don't hold me to that. The factory setting in the SRT's is 180. You can only scroll upward in units of 2 until you get to 220, then the next number is 150.

From 150, keep scrolling the numbers higher until you hit 170. That setting works really well­ the HID's will come on sooner, but not too soon. They'll turn on deep inside a car wash, but turn off automatically (of course) at the exit.

Note: Thanks to internetguy for this personal information from his parameter setup.

Technical information on EVIC screen 6 to follow;

AutoHLSens ­ Number Current value of the light sensor for the automatic headlight system (instantaneous).

Higher Number = Darker TC ­ 2 Numbers First number is a dampening (averaging) value, the higher the number, the more dampening occurs.

i.e. Higher the dampening value, the longer it will take for the lights to come on when it gets dark and longer it will take for the lights to go off when it gets bright. So if you go through a lot of short tunnels and don't want the lights to keep going on and off, increase this value.

Second number is the damped sensor value. Thld ­ A number and up to 2 alphabets Current threshold value. If damped sensor value exceeds this value, lights will come on. If damped sensor value goes below this value, lights will go off.

A = Automatic Headlights On H = SmartBeam Automatic High Beam System On

HBduty ­ Numerical Percentage Shows the current intensity level of the SmartBeam system, 0% = off, 100% = full high beams.

Available Actions: ♪ Increases dampening value (max out then loop back to lowest value) ▸ Increases threshold value (max out then loop back to lowest value)

Tip:144 Changing brake pads on BREMO brakes (SRT8)

Seems to be time for a lot of SRT owners to replace there brake pads so here's a little help to make it easy and pretty much straight forward. Here is a short 3 minute video and there is no sound, but is very easy to watch and understand the disassembly and assembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOyvGpIOCNw

These are not on a Dodge Challenger but they come off the exact same way, removing the calipers will depend on the condition of the rotors.

Tip:145 USB power adapter/charger via Cigarette lighter plug

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