Patsy Party Dress Add-On ______

Patsy Party Dress Add-on ______

Newborn to 12 years

What’s Inside ______

Getting Started 5 Printing Your Pattern 6 Settings 6 Printing the Instructions 6 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 7 Patsy Party Dress ADD-ON 8 The Options 9 Option A: Jumpsuit 9 Option B: Fishtail Skirt 9 Option C: Pleated Pencil Skirt 9 Option D: High Low Skirt 10 Option E: Shrug 10 Materials & Tools 10 Option A – Jumpsuit 11 Finished Garment Measurements 11 Materials & Tools 11 Sewing Instructions 13 STEP 1 – Stay Stitching 13 STEP 2 – Darts 13 STEP 3 – Front and Back Rise 15 STEP 4 – Side Seams 16 STEP 5 – Inseam 18 STEP 6 – Bodice 18 STEP 7 – Attaching Bodice to Trousers 18 STEP 8 – Hem 18 Option B – Fishtail Skirt 20 Finished Garment Measurements 20 Materials & Tools 20 Sewing Instructions 21 STEP 1 – Stay Stitching 21 STEP 2 – Skirt 23 STEP 3 – Bodice 30 STEP 4 – Attaching Bodice to Skirt 30 Option C – Pleated Pencil Skirt 31 Finished Garment Measurements 31 Materials & Tools 31 Sewing Instructions 32 STEP 1 – Stay Stitching 32 STEP 2 – Front Pleats 33

STEP 3 – Back Darts 35 STEP 4 – Center Back Seam 36 STEP 5 – Side Seams 38 STEP 6 – Kick Pleat 40 STEP 7 – Bodice 43 STEP 8 – Attaching Bodice to Skirt 43 STEP 9 – Hem 43 Option D – High Low Skirt 46 Finished Garment Measurements 46 Materials & Tools 46 Sewing Instructions 47 STEP 1 – Stay Stitching 47 STEP 2 – Bodice 48 STEP 3 – Attaching Bodice to Skirt 49 Option E – Shrug 50 Materials & Tools 50 Sewing Instructions 51 STEP 1 – Snaps 51 STEP 2 – Attach Lining to Outer Fabric 52 Pattern Pieces 55

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Email [email protected]

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Product Sales & Licensing Information ______

This pattern is copyrighted 2018 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.

Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we’d love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it’s up to you.

The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.

Best of luck and happy sewing!

Getting Started ______

Need help? Have a question?

Join our Facebook Group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme/

You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We’re a friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you’ve made. 

Before you get started…

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Printing Your Pattern ______

Settings

The pattern is printed at the back of this booklet. It is designed to be printed on US letter paper at 100%. If you wish to print on A4, please download the A4 size version. Make sure that the “fit to page” option is not checked on your printer options.

On the first page, you will find a 1-inch square test box. Print this page first on its own and check the measurements of the square. Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, you can print the rest of the pattern pages.

This is a “no-trim” pattern which means you don’t need to trim the edges off around the rectangles unless you wish to. Once you’ve printed your pattern, tape the rectangles together using the diagram here for reference, overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across; the letters go downwards. The first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3 and so on.

The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish to print in color, or in black and white.

Printing the Instructions

The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!).

If, however, you do wish to print the instructions, you will only need the instructions for the option you are doing. See the index at the start of the document for which pages these are on.

Which pages to print for pattern pieces only (US Letter) High Low Skirt Pencil Skirt Fishtail Skirt Jumpsuit Shrug 0 – 3 mos 72-77, 81-82, 84 58-59, 67-68 69-71, 77-80, 86-89 55-57, 63-65 60-62 3 – 6 mos 71-77, 81-85 58-59, 67-68 69-71, 77-80, 86-89 55-57, 63-65 60-62 6 – 12 mos 55-57, 63-65, 71-77, 81-85 58-59, 66-68 68-71, 77-80, 86-89 60-62 72-74 12 – 24 55-57, 63-65, 71-77, 81-85 58-60, 66-68 68-71, 77-80, 86-89 60-62 mos 72-74 2 – 3 yrs 117-118, 129- 101, 111-113, 123-125, 135- 114-115, 90-92, 103- 94-97, 106- 132, 138-141, 136, 144-147, 153-157, 164- 126-127, 106, 115-117 111, 119-123 149-151, 159-161 1165, 167 138-139 3 – 4 yrs 117-118, 129- 101, 111-113, 123-125, 135- 114-115, 90-92, 103- 94-98, 106- 132, 138-141, 136, 144-147, 153-157, 164- 126-127, 106, 115-117 111, 119-123 149-152, 159-162 1165, 167 138-139 5 – 6 yrs 117-119, 129- 101, 111-113, 123-125, 135- 114-115, 90-92, 103- 94-98, 106- 132, 138-141, 136, 144-147, 153-157, 164- 126-127, 106, 115-117 111, 119-123 148-152, 159-162 1165, 167 138-139 7 – 8 yrs 117-118, 129- 99-101, 111-113, 123-125, 132- 114-115, 90-93, 103- 94-98, 106- 132, 138-141, 137, 143-147, 153-157, 164- 126-127, 106, 115-117 111, 119-123 148-152, 159-162 167 138-139 9 – 10 yrs 116-118, 128- 99-101, 111-113, 123-125, 132- 114-115, 90-93, 102- 94-98, 106- 132, 138-142, 137, 141-147, 153-158, 164- 126-127, 106, 114-117 111, 118-123 148-153, 158-163 167 138-139 11 – 12 yrs 116-118, 128- 99-101, 111-113, 123-125, 132- 114-115, 90-94, 102- 94-99, 106- 132, 138-142, 137, 142-147, 153-157, 164- 126-127, 106, 114-117 111, 118-123 148-153, 158-163 167 138-139

Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color

How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers)

This pattern uses layers, so you can print only the sizes you want. Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser). Click on the “layers” button on the very left of the screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want. Leave the “Common Elements” and “Splitting Layer” on. Then print!

NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.

Patsy Party Dress ADD-ON ______

Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner

This is an add-on to The Patsy Party Dress. You will need The Patsy Party Dress pattern, as well as this, in order to be able to make the options in this pattern.

The sizing is the same as the main pattern. Seam allowances are also the same.

The layout to this add-on is different to the main pattern. The fitting notes, fabric requirements and cutting instructions can be found inside each option’s section.

Decide which option you wish to make first, then follow the instructions within that section. Make sure to check the Printing Section for which pattern pages to print for the size you are doing. You will not need to print all pattern pages.

The Options

Here are the options within this add on. All of them are suitable for both the ladies and child’s patterns.

Option A: Jumpsuit

A wide leg trouser with pleated center front and back dart. This attaches to the bodice from the Patsy Party Dress Pattern.

Go to the Jumpsuit Section >>

Option B: Fishtail Skirt

A paneled skirt with three godets at the back creating a wonderful fishtail skirt. This attaches to the bodice from the Patsy Party Dress Pattern.

Go to the Fishtail Skirt Section >>

Option C: Pleated Pencil Skirt

Double pleats to the front waist, darts to the back waist and a vent at center back create the perfect silhouette. This attaches to the bodice from the Patsy Party Dress Pattern.

Go to the Pleated Pencil Skirt Section >>

Option D: High Low Skirt

A paneled circle skirt with knee length to front and ankle length to the back. This attaches to the bodice from the Patsy Party Dress Pattern.

Go to the High Low Skirt Section >>

Option E: Shrug

A lined one piece shrug which attaches to the Patsy Party bodice lining.

You can use this with any of the bottom half options.

Go to the Shrug Section >>

Materials & Tools

See the fabric suggestions within the main Patsy Party Dress pattern. The fabric requirements and finished garment measurements are listed for each option below.

Option A – Jumpsuit

To complete this option, you will need both the Jumpsuit pattern pieces from this Add-on, and the bodice pieces & instructions from the main pattern.

Finished Garment Measurements

Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES)

Trousers Inside Leg 0 – 3 mos 7 3 – 6 mos 9 6 – 12 mos 11.2 12 – 18 mos 13 18 – 24 mos 14.3 2 – 3 yrs 15.6 3 – 4 yrs 16.7 5 – 6 yrs 19.6 7 – 8 yrs 22 9 – 10 yrs 24.6 11 – 12 yrs 28.2

Materials & Tools

See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions.

You will need notions and lining as per the main pattern.

For your exterior fabric, you will need the following quantities. This includes both fabric for the bodice and the jumpsuit bottoms:

Exterior Fabric (for Bodice and Trousers) in YARDS

45in/115cm wide fabric 60in/150cm wide fabric 0 – 24 mos 0.75 0.75 2 – 3 yrs 1.75 1 3 – 4 yrs 1.75 1 5 – 6 yrs 2 1.25 7 – 8 yrs 2.25 1.5 9 – 10 yrs 2.5 1.5 11 – 12 yrs 2.75 2.75

* Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Fitting Notes: • Follow all the fitting notes regarding the bodice fit from the main Patsy Party Dress pattern. • This jumpsuit has a loose wide sweeping leg fit. • Height – These trousers are designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6. o All humans vary in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body. o If you need to lengthen or shorten, we suggest doing this along the inside leg first, then follow the advice below on crotch fitting to adjust at the crotch area, then also adjust half way down the leg. • Crotch fitting - Pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments. o If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork. For back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!

Pattern Pieces: • From the Main Patsy Party Dress pattern – Bodice main and Bodice Lining • From this Add-on – Jumpsuit pieces

Cutting Checklist: Bodice pieces as per main Patsy Party Dress Pattern Front trouser - cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) Back trouser - cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)

Sewing Instructions

STEP 1 – Stay Stitching

1.1 Staystitch the front trouser, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

1.2 Staystitch the back trouser, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

STEP 2 – Darts

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

2.1 Lay one of the back pieces wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

2.2 With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

2.3 Press the dart toward the side seams.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the other dart on the back trouser piece.

STEP 3 – Front and Back Rise

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides of the trouser fronts together, serge the center front seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the back trousers. Skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the trouser front rise. This seam will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. 3.1 With wrong sides of the fabric together (right sides facing out), place the trouser front pieces together and pin the center front seam.

Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.

3.2 Trim the seam allowance in half and carefully clip into the curve.

TIP – The clipping will help the seam lay flat when finished but take care not to go too close to the seam when clipping.

3.3 Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the back rise.

STEP 4 – Side Seams

NOTE – You may notice that the trouser side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the trousers look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams.

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the trouser side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your trousers out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the jumpsuit is complete, then hang the jumpsuit from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the trousers is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the front and back right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

4.1 Place front and back trouser pieces wrong sides together (right sides facing out) and pin along each side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

4.2 Trim the seam allowances.

4.3 Turn the trouser so right sides are together, wrong sides facing up, and press.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

STEP 5 – Inseam

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you would like to use the serger to finish your trouser hem, it’s easiest to serge the trouser hems now before serging the inseam. Serge the raw edges without removing the seam allowance. Then with right sides of the trousers together, serge the crotch seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

5.1 With wrong sides together stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim, turn, and press.

With right sides together, stitch again at ¼ inch.

NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside off the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is enough.

STEP 6 – Bodice

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 1.

STEP 7 – Attaching Bodice to Trousers

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 4 - 7.

STEP 8 – Hem

FIT CHECK – Try the jumpsuit on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then continue.

8.1 Turn the hem under ¼ inch and press.

8.2 Turn the hem under another ¼ inch and press. The raw edges will now be enclosed in the folds.

8.3 Then topstitch in place by stitching close to the folded edge.

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the trouser as much as possible so that it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.

OPTIONAL - If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your jumpsuit a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Repeat for other trouser leg.

Option B – Fishtail Skirt

To complete this option, you will need both the Fishtail Skirt pattern pieces from this Add-on, and the bodice pieces & instructions from the main pattern.

Finished Garment Measurements

Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES)

Center Front Center Back Length Length 0 – 3 mos 12.5 12.9 3 – 6 mos 14.7 15.2 6 – 12 mos 16.9 17.1 12 – 18 mos 19.2 19.4 18 – 24 mos 21.2 21.4 2 – 3 yrs 22.3 24.4 3 – 4 yrs 23.6 25.6 5 – 6 yrs 27 29 7 – 8 yrs 30.1 32 9 – 10 yrs 33.2 35.2 11 – 12 yrs 37.1 39.4

Materials & Tools

See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions.

You will need notions and lining as per the main pattern.

For your exterior fabric, you will need the following quantities. This includes both fabric for the bodice and the skirt: Exterior Fabric (for Bodice and Skirt) in YARDS

45in/115cm wide fabric 60in/150cm wide fabric 0 – 6 mos 1 0.75 6 – 12 mos 1.25 1 12 – 24 mos 1.5 1 2 – 4 yrs 2 2 5 – 8 yrs 2.25 2 9 – 12 yrs 2.75 2.5

* Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Fitting Notes: • Follow all the fitting notes regarding the bodice fit from the main Patsy Party Dress pattern. • Height – This dress is designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6. If you need to add/remove length we suggest the following: o Add/remove from the center front, side front, center back and side back skirt pieces where the side godet joins/meets those panels. o Take that same amount off the top and the sides of the center back godet. This will keep the godet in proportion.

Pattern Pieces: • From the Main Patsy Party Dress pattern – Bodice main and Bodice Lining • From this Add-on – Fishtail Skirt pieces

Cutting Checklist: Bodice pieces as per main Patsy Party Dress Pattern Center front skirt – cut 1 Side front skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair) Center back skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair) Side back skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair) Center back godet skirt – cut 1 on fold Side back godet skirt – cut 2

Sewing Instructions

STEP 1 – Stay Stitching

1.1 Staystitch the center front skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the skirt waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

1.2 Staystitch the two side fronts, side backs and center back pieces in the direction of the arrows.

STEP 2 – Skirt

The back skirt has many panels that are attached together. Starting at the middle of the back, the order of the panels is: center back godet to center back panel, center back panel to side back godet, side back godet to side back panel, side back pane to side front panel, side front panel to center front panel, center front panel to side front panel, side front panel to side back panel, side back panel to side back godet, side back godet to center back panel, center back panel to center back godet.

The order of how these panels are attached is important, so that you can get precise points on the top of each godet.

We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt panels together. This seam will hide all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

NOTE – You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams.

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

2.1 With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the center back godet to one of the center back panels.

2.2 Start stitching ½ inch from the top of the godet, down to the bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Stitching from ½ inch down will help to get a precise point at the top of the godet when we attach it to the other skirt piece.

2.3 Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

2.4 Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – Press your seam allowance to one side first. This makes it a bit easier to get that seam line right in the center of the fold.

2.5 Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

2.6 Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach the center back godet to the other center back panel.

2.7 With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the center back panels together from where you started stitching on the godet (½ inch from the top of the godet), up to the top of the panels.

2.8 Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

2.9 Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

2.10 Stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge, and press.

TIP – This line of stitching will continue up from where the center back godet stitching ended.

2.11 Take the top part of the center back godet and sew a line of zig zag stitches across it. You will be stitching just through the top of the godet and not through the skirt panel. Trim off the excess fabric above the zig zag stitching. This will prevent fraying of the fabric.

2.12 Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach the side back godets to the other side of each of the center back panels.

2.13 Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.11 to attach the side back godets to the side back panels.

2.14 Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach each side back panel to each side front panel.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach each side front panel to each side of the center front skirt.

Your skirt will now be one full piece

STEP 3 – Bodice

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 1.

STEP 4 – Attaching Bodice to Skirt

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 4 - 8.

Option C – Pleated Pencil Skirt

To complete this option, you will need both the Pleated Pencil Skirt pattern pieces from this Add-on, and the bodice pieces & instructions from the main pattern.

Finished Garment Measurements

Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES) Skirt Length 0 – 3 mos 7.6 3 – 6 mos 9.5 6 – 12 mos 11 12 – 18 mos 13.7 18 – 24 mos 14.4 2 – 3 yrs 14.7 3 – 4 yrs 16.2 5 – 6 yrs 19.2 7 – 8 yrs 22.5 9 – 10 yrs 25.2 11 – 12 yrs 29.2

Materials & Tools

See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions.

You will need notions and lining as per the main pattern.

For your exterior fabric, you will need the following quantities. This includes both fabric for the bodice and the skirt:

Exterior Fabric (for Bodice and Skirt) in YARDS

45in/115cm wide fabric 60in/150cm wide fabric 0 – 24 mos 0.75 0.75 2 – 4 yrs 0.75 0.75 5 – 8 yrs 1 1 9 – 12 yrs 2 1.25

* Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Fitting Notes: • Follow all the fitting notes regarding the bodice fit and skirt length from the main Patsy Party Dress pattern. • Height – This dress is designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6. If you need to add/remove length we suggest doing this above the kick pleat on the back pieces and at that same point on the front piece.

Pattern Pieces: • From the Main Patsy Party Dress pattern – Bodice main and Bodice Lining • From this Add-on – Pleated Pencil Skirt pieces

Cutting Checklist: Bodice pieces as per main Patsy Party Dress Pattern Front skirt – cut 1 on fold Back skirt – cut 2

Sewing Instructions

STEP 1 – Stay Stitching

1.1 Staystitch the two back skirt pieces at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

NOTE – The front skirt will be stay stitched after the front pleats have been basted.

Pattern markings - Transfer the pattern markings for the pleats on the front skirt.

STEP 2 – Front Pleats

2.1 With the front skirt right side up, match the pattern marking on the side seam to pattern marking on the first pleat, placing them right sides together.

Turn the skirt over, wrong side facing up, and fold the pleat toward the center of the skirt and pin in place.

2.2 Repeat step 2.1 using the next two pattern markings to make a second pleat.

2.3 Repeat step 2.1 and 2.2 for the other side of the skirt.

You should now have 4 pleats (2x mirror image pairs).

2.4 Baste along the top of the pleats using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Normally you baste inside the seam allowance, however for these pleats it is important to baste at ½ inch to ensure that the pleats lay correctly.

NOTE - The pleats were drafted with a drape towards the hip. We don’t suggest pressing them flat but if you feel you need to you can press the top and just steam the pleats so that it still drapes and doesn’t sit flat.

2.4 Staystitch the front skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

STEP 3 – Back Darts

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

3.1 Lay a back piece wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the pencil skirt.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin

under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking

that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

3.2 With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

3.3 Repeat steps 3.1 and 3.2 for the dart on the other back skirt piece.

Carefully press your waist darts toward the outside edge of the skirt.

STEP 4 – Center Back Seam

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the skirt right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back stopping at the top of the kick pleat. Skip to step 5.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – You’ll be using a French seam to sew up the center back seam.

4.1 With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the back skirts together at the center back seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

4.2 Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

4.3 Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

4.4 Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge and stopping at top of the kick pleat.

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

STEP 5 – Side Seams

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the back to the front, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Repeat for opposite side seam. From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 to 2, then steps 4 to 6. Then skip to step 6 below.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt panels together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. Follow the steps below.

5.1 With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the back to the front, along the side seams.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

5.2 Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

5.3 Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

5.4 Stitch again approximately ¼ inch.

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat for the opposite side seam.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 to 2, then steps 4 to 6.

STEP 6 – Kick Pleat

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the edge of the kick pleat. Then turn under ¼ inch, press and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other side of the kick pleat. Then skip to step 7.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow along below.

6.1 Finish the edge of the kick pleat by folding the edge ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.

6.2 Fold another ¼ inch and topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side of the skirt.

6.3 Take each side of the kick pleat and pin right sides together.

Run a basting stitch starting 1 inch down from the center back seam stitching. The basting stitch should go straight down from the center back seam stitching line.

6.4 Stitch approximately 1 inch above the end of your center back seam until you reach the top of your basting stitches. Pivot and sew across the top of the kick pleat. Remember to back stitch at the start and end of your stitching.

6.5 With the wrong side of the skirt facing up, fold the kick pleat to the right and press.

6.6 You will now be basting the top of your kick pleat to the skirt. Baste directly on top of the stitching from step 6.4.

Make sure that the front of the skirt is moved out of the way, and you are only sewing through the back of the skirt.

NOTE – These basting stitches will be used as a guide when we sew from the right side in the next step.

6.7 From the right side of the skirt, stitch directly over the basting stitches, created in step 6.6, across the top of the kick pleat.

Remove all your basting stitches.

STEP 7 – Bodice

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 1.

STEP 8 – Attaching Bodice to Skirt

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 4 - 7.

STEP 9 – Hem

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem edge. Then turn under 1 inch, press and topstitch in place.

NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow along below.

9.1 Open out the kick pleat and fold the hem of the skirt to the wrong side ½ inch and press.

9.2 Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

9.3 Topstitch all around the skirt along the folded edge.

OPTIONAL - If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your evening gown a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

9.4 Fold the kick pleat back and use a slipstitch to sew the kick pleat to the hem.

Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

9.5 Insert the needle in the edge of the kick pleat.

9.6 Insert the needle into the hem, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

9.7 Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the kick pleat and pull the thread through. Continue to stitch along, alternating from the kick pleat and the hem. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.

When you reach the end of the skirt, knot the thread.

Option D – High Low Skirt

To complete this option, you will need both the Hi-Low Skirt pattern pieces from this Add-on, and the bodice pieces & instructions from the main pattern.

Finished Garment Measurements

Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES)

Skirt Front Skirt Back Length Length 0 – 3 mos 5 12.4 3 – 6 mos 7.6 14.4 6 – 12 mos 9 17 12 – 18 mos 11.3 19 18 – 24 mos 11.7 20 2 – 3 yrs 12 20.4 3 – 4 yrs 12.5 21.4 5 – 6 yrs 15.2 25.4 7 – 8 yrs 18 27.4 9 – 10 yrs 21 30.4 11 – 12 yrs 25 34.4

Materials & Tools

See the main pattern for fabric type suggestions.

You will need notions and lining as per the main pattern.

For your exterior fabric, you will need the following quantities. This includes both fabric for the bodice and the skirt:

Exterior Fabric (for Bodice and Skirt) in YARDS

45in/115cm wide fabric 60in/150cm wide fabric 0 – 3 mos 0.75 0.5 3 – 12 mos 1 0.75 12 – 24 mos 1.5 1 2 – 4 yrs 1.5 1.5 5 – 8 yrs 2 2 9 – 12 yrs 3.25 2.5

* Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Fitting Notes: • Follow all the fitting notes regarding the bodice fit and skirt length from the main Patsy Party Dress pattern.

Pattern Pieces: • From the Main Patsy Party Dress pattern – Bodice main and Bodice Lining • From this Add-on – High Low Skirt pieces

Cutting Checklist: Bodice pieces as per main Patsy Party Dress Pattern Center front skirt – cut 1 on fold Side front skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair) Center back skirt – cut 1 on fold Side back skirt – cut 2 (1x mirror pair)

Sewing Instructions

STEP 1 – Stay Stitching

1.1 Staystitch the center front skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center front towards the shoulders)

when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

1.2 Staystitch the two side fronts, two side backs and two center back pieces in the direction of the arrows.

STEP 2 – Bodice

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 and 2.

STEP 3 – Attaching Bodice to Skirt

Then from the main pattern tutorial follow steps 4 to 8.

Option E – Shrug

To complete this option, you will need to follow either the main Patsy pattern, or one of Options A-D from this Add-on pattern, then add this Shrug too.

Materials & Tools

Main Fabric – You can use nearly any woven fabric for this shrug. We would suggest a medium weight, heavy weight or specialty fabric such as faux fur, or velvet.

Lining fabric – Same lining fabric suggestions as the main pattern.

You will also need 2x snaps. However please note that depending on the type of snaps and fabric used, you might prefer to use two snaps per side.

Fabric Requirements in YARDS Fabric Requirements in YARDS (45 in/115cm wide) (60 in/150cm wide) Main Lining Main Lining 0 – 24 mos 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 2 – 12 yrs 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Pattern Pieces: Shrug main and Shrug lining

Cutting Checklist: • Main fabric – cut 1 • Lining fabric – cut 1

Sewing Instructions

Complete your dress or jumpsuit first as per the option you are following. Then when it is finished, continue to sew your shrug.

STEP 1 – Snaps

1.1 Apply a snap to the main fabric (outer layer) of your shrug along the short edge, following the instructions provided with your snaps.

TIP – With the bodice on your model try the shrug piece on to find the best placement.

It needs to be positioned so that it will match up with its matching snap on the exterior side of the fabric (e.g. on the right side of the fabric, not on the wrong side).

NOTE – If you are using sew-on snaps you may want to do this after step 2.

1.2 Apply the other half of the snap to the bodice lining just below the top corner of the bodice.

NOTE – If you would prefer your shrug to sit on top of your straps, you can apply the snap on top of the main fabric instead of your lining. However, the snap will be visible if your shrug is not attached.

NOTE – The images shown are the ladies version (child’s version has straps) but the process is the same.

1.3 Repeat step 1.1 and 1.2 for the opposite side of your shrug and bodice.

STEP 2 – Attach Lining to Outer Fabric

2.1 With right sides together, pin the lining to the main fabric all around the outside edges of the shrug.

NOTE – The lining is slightly smaller than the outer fabric.

2.2 Stitch around the outside edge using a ½ inch seam allowance leaving a 3 inch gap for turning.

TIP – After pinning around the outside edge, mark the gap with 2 pins to remember where to leave a gap for turning.

Clip into the seam allowance along the curved edge. This will help the curved edge lie flat. Be careful not to

snip through the stitches.

2.3 Turn the shrug right side out through the open gap. With the lining facing up press the shrug.

TIP – Use a pressing cloth over your shrug. You may have delicate fabric that could be damaged when ironing. A pressing cloth will protect your fabric.

You will be using a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder

stitch’) to stitch the gap closed. This type of stitch allows you to close the shrug without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside.

NOTE - You will have sewn this type of stitch when sewing your bodice to your lining.

Fold your fabric under ½ inch. You will be stitching along the folds.

TIP – Use a thread that matches your fabric. We are using a contrasting thread so that you can see the stitches.

2.4 Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the shrug to outside, pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the

needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between 1/8 - ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

2.5 Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Congratulations, your Patsy Party Dress Add-on is done. Enjoy! ♥

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