FALL INSPIRATIONS ART ORTENBERG DIES PART THREE OF WHAT SPARKED KEMPNER DESIGNERS’ CREATIVITY FOR THE COFOUNDER THEIR UPCOMING COLLECTIONS. OF FASHION PIONEER STYLE PAGES 4 AND 5 LIZ CLAIBORNE INC. NAN KEMPNER’S AND WILDLIFE GRANDCHILDREN MEGGIE AND CHRIS KEMPNER LAUNCH CONSERVATIONIST A SPORTSWEAR LABEL WAS 87. PAGE 8 INSPIRED BY HER. PAGE 6

BUILDING ONLINE, OUTLETS L&T, Hudson’s Bay Eye Aggressive Growth

By DAVID MOIN

CAN LORD & TAYLOR sell in Atlanta, Miami and Europe? The Northeast-concentrated department store and its sister Hudson’s Bay division spread through WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Canada have new agendas stretching the boundaries WWD of where and what both retailers can sell. That’s the word from Liz Rodbell, the career L&T merchant who on Monday offi cially stepped up from executive vice president to president of the Hudson’s Bay Co. department store group. The business, esti- mated at about $4.2 billion in sales for 2013, includes the 49-unit L&T and the 90-unit Hudson’s Bay. For decades, both have lagged the competition in productivity, not to mention retail theater. Yet over the last several months, management has been stabilized with marketing, creative and administrative chiefs ap- pointed, as well as elevating Rodbell, while strategies for growth and reviving some pizzazz have been un- folding fast. The $7.5 billion parent Hudson’s Bay Co. remains in a transformational period due to its recent Saks Fifth Avenue acquisition, which is separate from Oh, La La the department store group, and intensifi ed efforts to Newcomer Ji Oh is off to a chic start. renovate, develop shop formats and brand partnerships The designer presented her fi rst inside Hudson’s Bay and L&T and advance the under- developed online businesses at those two divisions. collection on Monday, a lineup that “Digital represents our biggest growth engine,” she describes as “modern, clean and Rodbell told WWD in her fi rst interview as president, androgynous.” With a less-is-more spelling out the blueprint for the future. “The digital marketing spend is being boosted by 50 percent this approach, Oh focuses on high-quality year,” to represent 30 percent of the overall market- fabrics in minimalist cuts, ing budget. That should enable L&T and Hudson’s such as this lamb fur Bay to strengthen consumer loyalty in areas where and textured double- the retailers operate stores and where they don’t but FALL 2014 could sell via the Web. face wool jacket worn “L&T has moved to an international model,” Rodbell with a wool sweater NEW YORK said. “We can ship to 100 countries,” effective this and stretch wool SEE PAGE 9 COLLECTIONS gabardine pants. For more, see page 7. Topshop Signs Lease For Fifth Ave. Flagship

By SAMANTHA CONTI

LONDON — Topshop is ready to dress New York’s uptown customers, with plans for a 40,000-square-foot fl agship at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 49th Street. The new store, currently occupied by Lacoste and adjacent to Rockefeller Center, will be the second- largest Topshop unit after Oxford Circus in London, which measures 90,000 square feet. Housed in a list- ed, landmark space built by Henry Goelet in 1931, the new store will also carry the Topman brand. In addition to the uptown store, Topshop will open four new units across the U.S., in San Diego, Houston, Atlanta and Washington, over the next 12 months. All, with the ex- ception of D.C., will also have Topman spaces. Topshop owner Sir Philip Green will be investing $40 million to $50 million in building and fi tting out all the new stores. In an interview here, Green said the long-awaited up- town opening in Manhattan is part of a continued push into the U.S. market, where he aims to generate $1 billion dollars in revenue from the Topshop and Topman brands. “It’s taken a couple of years, we’ve negotiated a few times, gone right to the altar — and then been jilted,” said Green of his quest to fi nd the appropri- ate space uptown. The fi rst U.S. Topshop unit opened on Broadway near Broome Street in 2009, and there are stand-alone stores in cities including Chicago, Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Green also said he plans to refurbish Topshop on Broadway, and take back some space from the PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE store’s atrium area. SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014 WWD.COM Kors Q3 Net Leaps 76.6% THE BRIEFING BOX “Michael’s fashion messaging with our custom- IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG ers [was] strong, and well-executed throughout the holidays. We communicated with our customer THE MARKET VALUE of Michael Kors Holdings through e-mail, catalogue, print, outdoor and social Ltd. just keeps climbing, hitting $18.25 billion on media, which expectedly conveyed the glamour and Tuesday and valuing designer Michael Kors’ 2 per- luxury of our holiday offering, capturing the cus- On the grounds of cent stake at $365 million. tomer’s attention and generating strong demand Barcelona’s 080 Fashion The company’s shares soared 17.3 percent globally,” Idol said. event. For more style Tuesday to close at $89.91 in trading on the New He also told analysts during the question-and-an- from the Spanish city, York Stock Exchange after Kors reported a 76.6 per- swer period, “And we think that continuing to build see WWD.com. cent leap in net income for the third quarter ended our platform socially is one of our priorities be- Dec. 28 on a 59 percent rise in revenues. Shares cause it gives us one of the greatest global reaches. rose as high as $93.18 in intraday trading, which So, I’d say that’s probably our number-one priority.” represented a new 52-week high. About 23 million Idol said the company has acquired more than shares changed hands, compared with an average 10 million Facebook fans, and is in the 1.5 million three-month trading volume of 4.5 million shares. range for Twitter and Instagram. The accessories and fashion firm reported net in- The company’s new North American Web site is

come for the third quarter of $229.6 million, or $1.11 set to launch for fall. “We are seeing high-double- HILLIG a diluted share, up from $130 million, or 64 cents, a digit increases in our worldwide search volume year ago. Total revenues were $1.01 billion, compared and in visitors to our existing Web site. By bring- MATTI with $636.8 million, which included a 59 percent gain ing e-commerce in-house, we will be able to bet- in net sales to $964.8 million from $606.9 million. ter focus on communications, marketing and sales PHOTO BY North American comparable- strategies to capitalize on the store sales rose 24 percent, its online growth opportunity,” core market, while comps rose the ceo said. Liz Rodbell, the new president of Hudson Bay Co., discusses 73 percent for its European Idol noted that the third PAGE 1 stores. The balance of revenues quarter was the first time the the future of Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay. was from licensing income. 17.3% company posted revenue in ex- Analysts were expecting on cess of $1 billion for any of its Topshop is ready to dress New York’s uptown customers, with average 86 cents in earnings RISE IN SHARES ON TUESDAY quarters. He also told analysts plans for a 40,000-square-foot flagship at the corner of Fifth per share for the quarter on OF MICHAEL KORS HOLDINGS LTD. that the company remains fo- Avenue and 49th Street. PAGE 1 a revenue estimate of $859.9 cused on executing on its six- million. pronged growth strategy that Two of Nan Kempner’s grandchildren, are launching a For the nine months, net income rose 68.8 per- includes more retail doors and continued conver- sportswear collection aptly called Kempner. PAGE 6 cent to $500.4 million, or $2.44 a diluted share, on sion of department store doors into shops-in-shop. a total revenue gain of 51 percent to $2.39 billion. Kors opened 20 stores in North America, 19 Anne Valérie Hash will sit out the fall fashion season and not Analysts were cautious about the results, though. across Europe, four in Japan and seven in the Far present any collection during Paris Fashion Week. PAGE 7 Paul Lejuez of Wells Fargo said that while Kors East through regional licenses during the quarter. showed strength in “every line item, every region For fiscal 2014, Idol said the company is on track to Arthur Ortenberg, a founder and vice chairman of Liz and every segment,” he also said “we believe im- open 57 North American retail stores and 36 stores Claiborne Inc., has died at the age of 87. PAGE 8 pressively high sales productivity levels create ex- in Europe. The company just opened a flagship in tremely difficult comparisons and will lead to slow- Shanghai, at Kerry Centre on Nanjing Road, and Target and Neiman Marcus executives appeared before the ing comps at some point.” has opened two stores in Brazil, in São Paulo and Senate Judiciary Committee on Tuesday at a hearing on their Randal J. Konik at Jefferies downgraded the Curitiba, in the quarter. There are seven stores in respective data breaches. PAGE 10 stock to “hold,” noting that the growth “has been Latin America, with an additional site in Brazil, too fast.” He noted that as Kors continues to take one in Venezuela and three in the Caribbean. Cassandra Huysentruyt Grey market share from Coach Inc., “we believe the The ceo said over the next few years, Kors be- is getting ready to take her beauty Web site Violet Grey into the world of e-commerce in brand is reaching a saturation point and see dimin- lieves that it will achieve revenue in excess of $1 PAGE 10 ishing returns as the product becomes increasingly billion in the European market, which had sales of time for the Oscars next month. ubiquitous.” He also noted that Coach’s history can $140 million for the quarter just ended. serve as a guide for “potential downfall associated Licensing income was driven by strength in its The Tribunal de Grande Instance of Paris has set July 1 to hear with market saturation,” and went so far as to even luxury watch and eyewear businesses. Idol also arguments in the Balenciaga-Nicolas Ghesquière case. PAGE 10 suggest that the “holiday quarter may be the peak.” noted the growing momentum for its jewelry cat- John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive offi- egory and that the company will roll out additional DHL and IMG have launched DHL Exported, a program aimed cer, didn’t have the same reservations, and instead watch and jewelry shops in its wholesale channel. at assisting designers who are already successful locally to shared with Wall Street analysts during a confer- There were 120 watch and jewelry shops at the end gain momentum internationally. PAGE 11 ence call where he thought were the pockets of of the quarter, and the company said it can have 500 growth for the brand. shops-in-shop worldwide. David Bailey’s retrospective at London’s National Portrait Gallery opens to the public on Thursday. PAGE 11

Time Inc. has revealed details of its restructuring, which will Positive Comp Results Fail to Lift Penney’s include an undisclosed number of layoffs. PAGE 12 ON WWD.COM although below Citigroup’s $2.1 billion estimate. By VICKI M. YOUNG “We currently model fiscal year 2014 capital expen- THEY ARE WEARING: Barcelona’s recently held 080 Fashion ditures at $300 million and a free cash flow burn of event, which took place in one of the city’s hipper downtown SHARES OF J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. fell to a 52- $647 million, resulting in fiscal year 2014 year-end neighborhoods, drew a crowd that dressed accordingly: edgy week low after investors realized that the early up- liquidity of $1.4 billion. We model [Penney’s] liquid- with plenty of black. For more, see WWD.com. date on comparable-store sales perhaps wasn’t so ity dipping to just over $700 million in [the third positive after all. quarter of 2014] when the retailer starts its holiday Penney’s said Tuesday that it recorded a 2 per- inventory build, which we caution could alert in- cent comps gain for the fourth quarter, the first time vestors and vendors alike.” FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA since the second quarter of 2011 that the retailer has Sterne Agee’s Grom believes that there is a @ WWD.com/social posted a positive quarterly sales result. It noted that possibility that Penney’s “could run into another for the nine weeks of November and December, the liquidity situation by [third quarter of 2014]. The TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. comps growth was a gain of 3.1 percent. bottom line is that [Penney’s] sales trend need[s] to WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. According to Sterne Agee analyst Charles Grom, improve materially better, and quickly.” COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. those numbers and “historical monthly sales pat- Given the current comp trajectory, Grom’s fi- VOLUME 207, NO. 24. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and terns suggest to us that December was likely down nancial model has liquidity running at very low December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance 1 percent and January was down 3.5 percent.” levels into the third quarter and believes that the Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. 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While the e-commerce site was in existence in ing unprecedented harsh weather conditions in dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new the 2012 holiday selling season, it wasn’t the focus many parts of the country, we delivered on our subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please of the former management team as it tried to insti- promise to generate positive comparable store call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS tute a new store concept. sales growth in the fourth quarter.” Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd returned as chief ex- The company said it saw solid performance in subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest ecutive officer of Penney’s in April. several categories, including beauty sales at its our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR Penney’s also said that it closed fiscal year 2013 Sephora shops-in-shop, activewear, sweaters, out- DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED with “total available liquidity in excess of $2 billion.” erwear, dresses, boots and men’s apparel. 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COLLECTIONS SEASON’S MOST-ANTICIPATED DEBUT. EASY TO READ, OPTIMIZED SPEED. AND AS FASHION-SAVVY AS EVER. 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014

— Narciso Rodriguez SYNDICATION REDGROVE/WALLPAPER*/IPC

“Survival.” — Alexander Wang BENEDICT

“Shadow play.” — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel

GETTY IMAGES; KLEIN BY Part Three BY Inspirations SIGHTSEEING ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; KORS

COMPILED BY RICARDO HERNANDEZ FROM FORCES OF NATURE TO FEMME FATALES, NEW YORK DESIGNERS ARE MAKING POWER STATEMENTS FOR FALL. 36”; DIESEL BLACK GOLD BY

“Light through the darkness.” — Elie Tahari

“Beech forest.” “Highlands smoke.” — Mark Badgley and James Mischka, — Georgina Chapman Badgley Mischka and Keren Craig, Marchesa “Conjuring speed.” — Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein Collection

“As a FOR MORE FALL 2014 backdrop: INSPIRATIONS, SEE armor.” — Tor y Burch WWD.com/ fashion-news.

“American journey.” — Michael Kors

“A new frontier.” — Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold 2010, OIL ON WOOD, 48” X #27,” “CLOUD WELLMANN, AMBERA OF NANETTECOURTESY OF MARCHESA LEPORE; 1973/COURTESY GEOGRAPHIC, NATIONAL OF COURTESY IMAGE LEPORE WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014 5 WWD.COM

“Unexpected color combinations, delicate textures, modern plaids and soft volumes.” “Young, fun — Wes Gordon and smart.” — Vera Wang “Dressing up to walk down city streets.” — Lyn Devon — Lyn Devon “Harlequin and Pierrot.” — Araks Yeramyan, Araks

“Tenzin.” — Bibhu Mohapatra

“A vibrant sunset framed by New York City’s architecture as seen in artist T.J. Wilcox’s ‘In The Air’ exhibit at the Whitney Museum.” — Pamella Roland DESIGNER OF THE GABRIEL BARBIER-MUELLER MUSEUM, DALLAS; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY

“Celestial.” — Douglas Hannant

“A spirited voyage that takes you back “Where’s my Uber?” in time where free — Oscar de la Renta thinking, curiosity and independent thought is celebrated.” — Sarah-Jane Clarke ANN & FLOWERS/THE OF BRAD COURTESY BURCH — Ralph Lauren and Heidi Middleton, Sass & Bide

“‘Ascenseur pour l’échafaud’ (‘Elevators to the gallows’).” — Sophie Theallet

“Tech tradition.” OF BADGLEY MISCHKA; KLIMT/COURTESY — Prabal Gurung, ICB GUSTAV “Celtic rainbow!” — Rozae Nichols, “I’ve been Clover Canyon looking at a lot of Anna May “Bianca Jagger, Wong films.” circa 1970s.” — Anna Sui — Jenny Packham VASAN/GETTY IMAGES; MISCHKA BY “A Saturday

afternoon in Paris.” GANDEE — Serge Azria, Joie

“A view of the city that I walk past every day on the way to the design studio “Les Ballets Russes...that moment in history in East London. when Paris and Berlin became a vibrant “11.5.” The cityscape that — Danielle Sherman, Edun

intersection of art, music, dance and culture.” surrounds us is in BY GEE/GETTY DAVID IMAGES; TAHARI — Diane von Furstenberg beautiful continual evolution and that is a constant

inspiration.” BY 2010; SPADE — Wil Beedle, AllSaints

“Upstate.” — Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, Timo Weiland

“Fall is about overcoming the soul-crushing “Local craftsmen everywhere.” mishaps and — Nanette Lepore constant disappointments that come with

being a small OF “WILDER MANN,” CHARLES FRÉGER, WOO; EDUN COURTESY designer and letting

“This season is inspired by my recent travels to Asia where fast and exciting creativity prevail.” PATTY new technologies coexist with ancient traditions — I was drawn to the high-speed — Leila Shams flashes of color and bold energy of Tokyo.” — Deborah Lloyd, Kate Spade New York SUI IMAGE BY 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014 Kempners Keeping Fashion All in the Family

resentative for Christie’s, Nan Kempner By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Meggie and FOR MORE IMAGES left tracks professionally and personally. Chris Kempner AND QUOTES Her grandchildren laughed remember- NEW YORK — Nan Kempner’s re- FROM NAN, SEE ing how she loved to pick out their outfits nowned taste can be seen all over her when traveling or weekending together. family’s Upper East Side apartment. WWD.com/ “‘Tell’ is a light word — with me, she just

A sculpture of her younger self, a few fashion-news. ordered,” Chris Kempner said. paintings by René Magritte, the Robert The brand’s logo features four Ks — Graham bronze bas-reliefs she bought one for their grandmother, two for the after a studio visit and art books galore entrepreneurial siblings and a fourth for hint at her well-designed life. But first their sister Nina, an art history major at and foremost — beyond her socialite Yale whom they hope will join the fold. status, lively dinner’’ parties, perfectly The 30-piece line is being made entirely appointed Park Avenue home and her in New York’s Garment District. Launch carpe diem way to be — Kempner was Collective is showing the Kempner label known for her trove of designer clothes. from its 495 Broadway offices, and sell- Now, eight years after her death, ing select designs in its boutique there. Meggie and Chris Kempner, two of her Industry sources said Kempner aims to grandchildren, are launching a sports- generate $3 million in its first year in wear collection — aptly called Kempner wholesale volume. The company is also and inspired by her unmistakable style said to have corralled “a seven-digit fig- but reimagined as if she were an on-the- ure for funding from friends and family.” move young woman living in New York While her grandmother’s whippet-thin today. The two were born 22 months apart. frame was said to be the impetus for Tom Wolfe’s “social X-ray” moniker in “Bonfire Two looks from the new of the Vanities” and Valentino once Kempner collection. praised her “body like a hangar,” Meggie Our collection is for Kempner’s take on sizing is more all-inclu- sive. “Our collection is for a working girl a working girl who who is in shape with a normal body,” she said, adding that she and her brother quiz friends all the time about their favorite is in shape with pieces and what’s missing. During the photo shoot, models a normal body. and members of the production team couldn’t resist picking up some of the — MEGGIE KEMPNER baubles that were lined up on the cano- py bed in a guest room. A weighty neck- lace laden with ruby and emerald beads Chris, 29, is a Yale graduate who worked that Nan Kempner bought in India, a in finance for five years at Loeb Capital laticelike gold Verdura cuff and Hermès Management, Oak Hill Capital Partners leather bracelets and belts all drew and Goldman Sachs, and is four months nods of approval. “I have a very big bag away from getting his M.B.A. at Harvard. today,” one model said mischievously. After graduating from the University of The diamond pinky ring that Kempner Pennsylvania, his sister started out in pub- wore day in and day out was another lic relations at Full Picture before getting point of attraction. Set in 18-karat gold into fashion as a stylist at Ralph Lauren. with a brandished stainless steel ring, the In a partnership that appears’’ very much sizable Taffin sparkler was what remained to be a left-brain, right-brain sort of com- of a pair of earrings. Meggie Kempner bination, he handles the financial side and said her grandmother lost the other dia- she is all about the creative. mond earring in the surf, and her father While a stream of models, a stylist, was tasked with a two-hour salt water

a photographer, a videographer and MORELAND search. On another occasion, when intrud- other creative types swept through their ers broke into the family’s apartment in grandmother’s duplex, the pair took a LEXIE the Seventies and tied up Nan Kempner, breather from a photo shoot to discuss BY she still had the wherewithal to hide a their new business. Their parents, Jamie JAR diamond earring in her mouth. and Cynthia, also passed through at one PHOTOS Not surprisingly, accessories will be point for a little extra moral support — that Diana Vreeland once said, “There are Recalling ski trips to Vail, Colo., Chris added down the road, and whenever their not that their children appeared to need no chic women in America. The one excep- Kempner said with a laugh, “You’ve never first fragrance is introduced, it will simply any. Much like the customers they aim tion is Nan Kempner.” seen so many variations of a ski outfit. She be called Nan. For a launch party in March, to dress, the brother-sister team come But Meggie and Chris Kempner are would wear the tightest-fitting Lycra stretch the duo will host a dinner in the apartment across as confident and charismatic with leaving the couture ballgowns behind for pants with no functional warmth property that Michael Taylor, Billy Baldwin Sr. and their own sense of style. their collection, which features versatile whatsoever, which meant we were con- Mark Hampton each had a hand in the For inspiration, Meggie Kempner printed wool miniskirts, tank dresses, a stantly taking breaks for hot chocolate. She design of. There was even talk of bringing trekked to the Metropolitan Museum of black-and-white two-tone goat fur coat, would have her beautiful fur-lined and fur- her longtime cook, Sylvana, out of retire- Art’s Costume Institute to study the couture slim-fitting pants and double-breasted trimmed Bogner ski jacket that zipped from ment to introduce a new generation to her pieces that once hung in her grandmother’s blazers. The Kempner label leans on more the neck to midquad and the biggest fur hat bacon-wrapped bread sticks and spaghetti closet. Nan Kempner’s couture collection casual pieces that can easily be mixed you have ever seen. And the luggage…” dinners. Meggie Kempner said, “It’s gotten was so vast the museum re-created her with designer labels — something their In a 1999 Town & Country article, Nan to the point where we talk about work so Park Avenue closet and showcased some of grandmother championed before it was Kempner described her look as “arti- much that we will sometimes stop and say, her designer gowns in its “American Chic” considered fashionable to do so. Sweden ficially relaxed. It takes a lot of work to ‘By the way, how are you?’” exhibition, which opened in 2006. Said to Unlimited shot the line for a look book look relaxed. I’ve always liked being no- The siblings agreed their grandmother have missed only one runway season in 55 and a video, using a Red digital camera for ticed, and I work hard at it.” would be proud that they have followed in years, Nan Kempner was not only a muse the latter, which combines still shots with Having served as a contributing edi- her footsteps workwise. “Obviously, we of the late Yves Saint Laurent but a fashion video so that the model will appear to be tor for French Vogue, a fashion editor for wish she could be here to see it all and to authority in her own right (for some of her wearing different outfits as she moves in Harper’s Bazaar, a design consultant for wear it all, but we believe she is in spirit,” views on fashion, see sidebar). So much so the video. It will retail from $400 to $700. Tiffany & Co. and an international rep- Meggie Kempner said.

smallish side, clothes can overpower me. But black caftan from Fernando Sanchez is my “I think clothes must be as pretty inside as they are Nan on Fashion Yves understands my kind of body. Actually, he favorite look for at home.” — W, 1974 out. I look for good fabric and good workmanship. Nan Kempner didn’t just have a way with clothes designs for someone who is built like him.” I see if clothes are well-cut and well-made; that’s — she also had one with words. She was known — WWD, 1972 “I like simple shapes, which I buy over and over why I support the couture. If something is trendy for her wry, pithy and illuminating observations again. I visualize an entire outfit and buy, often and badly made, it won’t last.” — WWD, 1974 on style. Here, a selection. — LORNA KOSKI “I always wear sportswear for day — sweaters, adding to things I’ve owned for years, with the skirts and pants. I’m very much a pants total look in mind. I like tailored looks, nothing “Levis are the mainstay of my wardrobe, and I wear “I tell people all the time I want to be buried girl. At night, I switch to suits like Adolfo’s fussy like ruffles. I would always rather be them in the tub to make sure they fit.” — W, 1974 naked, because there must be a store where metallic Chanel-looking suit, or Halston’s long underdressed than overdone.” — W, 1974 I’m going.” — WWD, 1972 cashmere dress.” — WWD, 1972 “I am a bit of a squirrel.…I hate to give things “Fashion is an art. When you look at paintings away. I pull out old clothes all the time. It’s hard “I spend more money than I should and less “There are many things more important than in museums, you see a reflection of how women for me to part with some things.” — WWD, 1972 than I’d like to, much less. I couldn’t keep my clothes, but few things you do more than dress dressed in certain eras. A designer is as much husband if I spent more.” — WWD, 1972 and undress.” — W, 1974 of an artist as an author, painter or architect. “I can remember my grandmother having a Fashion design is, after all, architecture for the lady come from Paris every year with trunks of “There’s no question Yves Saint Laurent is my “I love changing clothes, even if we’re at body. Look at the work of Grès, Chanel, Poiret, clothes, and she would order things for me.” favorite designer. Because I am tall and on the home. My white Moroccan man’s shirt and Balenciaga, Saint Laurent.” — W, 1974 — WWD, 1972 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014 7 WWD.COM

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE New Designer WWD.com/ Spotlight: Ji Oh fashion-news.

NEW ON the New York calendar is Ji Oh, who showed a tight lineup of off-beat, androgynous tailoring on Monday. It was an impressive start for the Korean-born designer who’s been based in New York for nine years. She studied at Central Saint Martins in London and Parsons The New School for Design in New York, where she graduated in 2008. After working with various stylists, including Jackie Astier, Oh launched the contemporary label Shadowconnected in 2010, but this season repositioned and renamed the collection for the designer market, with prices ranging from $200 to $1,200. The clothes project a strong point of view: “The direction is for the artistic, cultured woman in her late 20s,” said Oh. “It’s about sophistication and a bold but quiet statement. Nothing flashy.” Lines are modern and clean. Pieces include boyish and boxy wool suiting (which Oh showed over luxurious white T-shirts), crepe de chine silk

EICHNER STEVE blouses and cashmere knits in elongated silhouettes, all worked in a neutral palette with a less-is-more vibe. The outerwear, too, is done in nonchalant, yet sophisticated, cuts. A black wool maxi coat features an asymmetric hem while a military green Looks from one, also in wool, has a simple navy Ji Oh's fall collar. For novelty items, there’s a cool BY PORTRAIT CHINSEE; GEORGE collection. navy jacket that comes padded and cropped and a collared style in cream Ji Oh in her showroom.

BY PHOTOS lamb fur. Retailers are not yet confirmed. Anne Valérie Hash Dior Waikiki Unit Reopens To Skip Fall Shows By SHARON EDELSON The Dior boutique at the DFS Galleria Waikiki.

By MILES SOCHA THE DIOR BOUTIQUE at the DFS Galleria Waikiki in Honolulu has reopened after exten- PARIS — Signaling challenging sive renovations and an expansion that added 50 times for independent fashion la- percent to its original size. bels, Anne Valérie Hash said The store was inspired by the design concept she would sit out the fall of the Dior boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne in fashion season and not Paris, which was designed by Peter Marino. The present any collection dur- interiors are a study in gray, the favorite color of ing Paris Fashion Week, designer Christian Dior, and feature art by Rob which runs from Feb. 25 to Wynne, including his word mirrors and “dot” March 5. mirrors. Furniture was created by artists and de- She said she would re- signers such as Laurent Chauvat, Hervé Van der turn in six months to a year Straeten and Alex Turco. and unveiling a store in Vancouver this year. It with a new project, hinting it In the fall, the brand is opening a second New will be Dior’s first freestanding store in Canada. would involve a new way to York store in SoHo, said Pamela Baxter, president Baxter said the company is renovating its en- present her fashions. of Dior’s U.S. division. She said other locations tire fleet in North America based on the Avenue “Part of the creative for new stores include Houston — the company Montaigne prototype. Units at the Bellagio in Las process involves taking opened a store in Dallas last year — Chicago and Vegas and Americana Manhasset in New York will a step back,” she said. “I possibly Atlanta. “We’re interested in all the ma- be converted over the next two or three years. All am in a moment where jors,” Baxter said, noting that Dior is opening a the stores in the North American market should be I need to observe what’s unit in the Miami Design District in spring 2015 renovated by the end of 2017. “We started with the around me.” East 57th Street flagship two years ago and redid Her move echoes the Rodeo Drive store last year,” Baxter said. that of designer Dior operates a second unit in Honolulu at Martine Sitbon, who 1454 Ala Moana Boulevard. “The Hawaii market last September said is changing,” Baxter said. “Hawaii was predomi- she would take a nantly Japanese tourists and over the years it’s sabbatical of at least changed. Now there are Canadians, Australians one year, putting and lots of Chinese. her Rue du Mail collection on hold. “The client that shops in Honolulu likes color; One of French fashion’s smallest but it’s a warm-weather climate,” Baxter said. “We bravest entrepreneurs, Hash launched her didn’t create anything exclusively for the opening label in 2001 and found a niche with her of the store, but when you visit the store you see plays on the masculine-feminine dichoto- that we use a lot of color in terms of merchandis- my and such signature silhouettes as jump- ing handbags, ready-to-wear and shoes.” suits and tuxedos. The predominantly Asian clientele means She started out showing during the Paris stores have to pay attention to the calendar and Two looks couture schedule in a bid to stand out from Japanese and Chinese holidays, which don’t cor- by Anne the ready-to-wear fray. respond to North American holidays. “We have Valérie In 2006, she set up shop in a some of the top clients, the very important clients 5,000-square-foot space that was a notori- that live in other cities and shop in Hawaii three GIANNONI GIOVANNI Hash. ous bordello in the Thirties. She retreat- or four times a year,” Baxter said. “They might ed there in recent seasons and staged live in Hong Kong, Taipei or Tokyo. It’s hard to

PHOTOS BY small-scale rtw shows. distinguish the local client from the tourist.” 8 WWD wednesday, february 5, 2014

Obituary Industry Pioneer Arthur Ortenberg, 87 Hong kong, and people would get out of “Liz always got credit because art gave in 1987, Liz claiborne inc. was recog- By Lisa Lockwood the way. Having never gone to business her credit. He played the role of Mr. Liz nized by Fortune Magazine as the third school, i considered business school claiborne, but he was the genius behind “Most admired corporation” and in NEw YoRk — arthur ortenberg, graduates dolts and traditionalists.” Liz claiborne,” said Margolis, who be- 1988 as america’s fifth “Most admired a founder and vice chairman of Liz in that interview, ortenberg said the came vice chairman of the company. He corporation.” in april 1989, Fortune claiborne inc. whose vision guided the four partners had a great arrangement. added that every factory person thought Magazine recognized claiborne and phenomenal growth of the company and “Jerry [chazen] was totally in sales, i was of ortenberg and claiborne “as family.” ortenberg as chief executives of the high- who later became a wildlife conservation in operations and finance, Liz was design “No one created a better culture [at a est ranking american corporation for philanthropist, died Monday at New York and Leonard [Boxer] was production,” company] than art ortenberg. it was the return on investment for the years 1978 Presbyterian Hospital. said ortenberg. “art always had the vi- best in the history of the [apparel] busi- to 1988, an annual average of 40.3 per- ortenberg, 87, died of complications sion,” said claiborne in 2006. “i thought ness,” he said. cent. in 1990, they were inducted into the of pneumonia and kidney failure, accord- we’d be a nice little company.” National Business Hall of Fame. in 1991, ing to his son, Neil. But the influx of women heading into they were inducted into the National News of ortenberg’s illness surfaced the workplace and claiborne’s finely tuned sales Hall of Fame. ortenberg also served last week when his companion, cathy eye for sportswear were a potent combina- as a Trustee of the Library of congress. Horyn, stepped down from her role as tion. The company was able to offer value when they walked away from active chief fashion critic of The New York and prices that hadn’t been previously management in June 1989, claiborne and Times to care for him. available in the U.s. by shifting produc- ortenberg were multimillionaires and ortenberg started the sportswear com- tion overseas. The majority of claiborne’s ready to build a new career in philan- pany Liz claiborne inc. in 1976 with his clothing was produced overseas; the thropy, having established the ortenberg late wife, Liz claiborne. within 13 years, company had factories in Hong kong, Foundation in 1984, which became when they retired, the publicly traded korea, the Philippines, Taiwan, israel, the the Liz claiborne and art ortenberg firm was generating $1.41 billion in sales caribbean, and central america. Foundation in 1987. since 1990, the and $164.6 million in net profits and although his background didn’t fore- foundation has provided more than $70 had arguably become one of the biggest shadow that someday he’d hit it that million in grants to numerous nature success stories in the fashion industry. big, ortenberg said, “i saw it as a three- conservation, wildlife and educational ortenberg then turned his attention to dimensional chess game, with the chutz- projects around the globe, according to wildlife conservation. pah that if you really worked at it and James Murtaugh, program director of the Born in Newark in 1926, ortenberg you had a strong capital base, you could foundation. He said ortenberg’s inten- served in the Navy during world war ii, defeat scale. But nobody has done that.” tion “is for it to continue on in perpetu- and graduated from the University of during his tenure, ortenberg was an ity.” He noted that ortenberg was actively wisconsin. He spent the early part of his outspoken proponent of free trade and engaged with the foundation on a daily career as a partner in a textile firm and a used to consider working conditions when basis up until about two weeks ago. “it textile/apparel consultant. choosing factories. “we used to say there was a complete passion of his,” he said. according to his son, ortenberg was an were worse factories in Brooklyn than in The foundation will be headed by ecolo-

antiwar civil rights activist and had a huge the orient,” said claiborne in 2006. ichner gist david western, a board member e influence on him. “He took me to peace “He was the logical, rational yin to since 1987.

marches and he took me to hear Martin Liz’s creative yang,” said Paul charron, Steve The foundation has funded dozens of Luther king. we’d listen to Jimi Hendrix who was a friend of ortenberg’s and Arthur conservation management and educa- and The who,” said Neil ortenberg, a film- joined claiborne in 1994, rising eventually Ortenberg tional programs in places from Montana

maker and writer. “He really was quite an to chairman and chief executive officer. photo by to the congo, kenya, Madagascar and Belize, as well as provided grants to chazen, who became claiborne’s chair- protect such wildlife as the elephants man upon Liz claiborne’s retirement, met in africa, tigers in india, penguins in ortenberg at the University of wisconsin Patagonia, antelopes in Tibet and jag- where they roomed together in the second uars in south and central america. semester of their freshman year in 1944. “He was an extraordinarily effective “we were both interested in a lot of the conservationist,” said Bill conway, senior same things — reading, literature and conservationist at the wildlife conservation other stuff. i was convinced art was going society. “His background wasn’t as a sci- to be a college professor. He just kind of entist, but he had an innate approach to had that attitude and aptitude. But he wildlife conservation that depended on chose the world of business, which was facts, not emotions. it was amazing what kind of interesting,” said chazen. they have achieved in the Far East, south “our relationship became more solid america and North america, especially after he married Liz. Liz and i were Montana,” said conway. very close,” said chazen. He said that once they retired from claiborne, rchive a for years department stores had only ortenberg and claiborne spent three-and- sold apparel in designated departments. a-half months a year in Montana. during

airchild “we offered coordinated separates. we the summer, they would go back and forth f showed them together so a woman would between Manhattan and saltaire, Fire Leonard Boxer, Liz Claiborne, understand how to dress herself. we island, and in the winter, they traveled Ortenberg and Jerome Chazen in 1984. broke a lot of rules,” he said. between the city and st. Barth’s.

photo from dana Buchman, who went to work ortenberg never had any doubts that for ortenberg and claiborne in 1982 and once he and claiborne retired, they’d be amazing, idealistic person. The interest- “He was a visionary in translating stayed for 30 years, said Tuesday, “People out of the picture. ing thing to me was he went from that Liz’s creative approach, her creative may not remember this now, but they re- The couple was quick to acknowledge persona to Liz claiborne inc., where he skills into a commercial vein,” charron ally changed the face of sportswear at a that as much as they loved and benefited became a brilliant businessman and took said. “one part of the success of the time when women were done with dress- from the company they started, and en- the company public.” company was the quality of the design. ing like men for work. it was great quality joyed reminiscing about the early days, ortenberg and claiborne met in another part of the success was the qual- sportswear that was tasteful, timeless and its future was entirely out of their hands. 1954, when he hired her to design ity of the make and art was very involved tailored with a sense of fun and color. “The whole business of thinking you Joan Miller dresses (a division of Rhea in guiding and shaping the use of Eastern “she [claiborne] was a designer but can perpetuate something is fool’s cur- Manufacturing). although they were both sourcing in order to get well-made prod- he was the merchant that made space for rency,” said ortenberg in 2006. “The min- married to others at the time, they began ucts at a very good price.” her and her design team. They believed ute you slam the doors behind you, all an affair. They moved on to assorted tex- Jay Margolis, chairman and ceo of in the product and loved what they did. hell breaks loose.” tile and apparel firms, and in 1957, they caché inc., worked with ortenberg and They were kind of idealists in a way. Liz claiborne died on June 26, 2007, at married. in 1975, they decided to go into claiborne for 10 years and would have There was nothing cynical about their the age of 78, after a long battle with cancer. business together, and raised $250,000 dinner with them three nights a week. business. They were personally dedicat- Liz claiborne inc., which in 2006 posted from family and friends. The duo turned “There was no smarter, better, more ed to what they did,” Buchman said. annual volume of $4.99 billion and a port- ortenberg’s consulting space at 80 west thoughtful and more value-oriented per- during her Liz claiborne days, folio of 40 brands, sold its namesake Liz 40th street into a design room and show- son in the business than art ortenberg. Buchman said ortenberg also made a claiborne brand to J.c. Penney co. inc. in room, obtained credit and took out a He knew everyone’s name and was so point of having designers sit in on sales 2011 and shed many of its other brands. classified ad in wwd for a production ex- thoughtful about every aspect of the meetings so they would know exactly claiborne changed its name to Fifth & ecutive who was experienced in quality business. He understood everybody’s what was selling. “That was the point — Pacific cos. inc. in 2012, and after selling goods, which landed them another part- role and responsibilities. He would sur- none of us were in fine art,” she said. off Juicy couture and Lucky Brands, will ner, Leonard Boxer. The company was round Liz with the right people to make Laurence c. Leeds Jr., chairman become kate spade & co. on Feb. 25. incorporated in February 1976. Jerome sure she had everything she needed to be of Buckingham capital Management, in addition to his son Neil, ortenberg chazen joined as a partner in 1977. Liz,” he said. said, “He was a very smart guy and they is survived by a daughter, Nancy Reflecting on the early days, Margolis noted that ortenberg — who [ortenberg and claiborne] were a dy- ortenberg, and stepson, alex schultz. ortenberg, who initially served as sec- came to work every day in khaki pants, namic and stimulating couple. They were a memorial service is being planned retary-treasurer, told wwd in 2006, “we light blue shirt and navy blue blazer — very intellectually attractive, vibrant and for next month. had wonderful systems. we had a group came out of the piece goods business and not easily humored. He was devoted to — With contributions of young people who were ferociously knew everything about textiles. He was excellence in every aspect of his busi- from Evan clark and brilliant and energized. we would go to also a grand master in chess. ness and personal life.” rosEmary fEitElbErg

w05a008a.indd 8 2/4/14 8:10 PM 02042014201132 WWD wednesday, february 5, 2014 9 WWD.COM Mapping Out Growth at L&T, Hudson’s it, and taking the company into flagship that are as imaginative {Continued from page one} deeper omnichannel territory. as L&T’s on Fifth Avenue. spring. “Our geographical foot- Also high on Rodbell’s prior- As far as the merchandise ma- print doesn’t determine the size ity list is boosting merchandise trix, there’s no need for an over- of the brand. The brand deter- exclusivity and filling product haul and Rodbell is just fine with mines the size of the brand.” The voids. This fall, HBC Sport, a the positioning of L&T as a better company has already begun com- private-label activewear collec- specialty department store for municating with consumers in tion that includes yoga pants, “accessible luxury.” She charac-

Atlanta, where there are no L&T sweats and T-shirts, will be terized Hudson’s Bay as a moder- stores, to test awareness and de- introduced to strengthen the ate-to-designer department store. mand levels. existing branded presenta- “We are very satisfied with Rodbell cited a “mobile tion, as will an online program the brand mix but there are technology buildup” at both selling big and tall men’s mer- always opportunities in select banners, involving outfitting as- chandise sourced from lead- locations to go forward.” She

sociates with iPads for product ing brands that already sell in acknowledged localization op- search in tests at five doors cur- stores. Already trickling onto portunities, such as enhancing rently. A “substantial rollout” is the selling floors is 424 Fifth, smaller sizes at the Vancouver seen for 2015. Product searches another new private label for flagship, where there is a large can also be done at point of sale. “modern’’ sportswear. It will be Asian population, and having In September, the “Just Ask sold at all L&T and Hudson’s regional managers work closer Us” program was launched to ’’ Bay stores, and showcased with with store teams to understand encourage consumers to ask as- 3,000-square-foot shops at the local nuances and demograph- sociates to search for products L&T flagship on New York’s ics and then “liaise” with the at other locations or on online, Fifth Avenue and Hudson’s merchant and planning teams to when the items they want are Bay flagships in Vancouver and help customize the assortments. not available at the store they’re Toronto, and with seven “soft” While the merchandise pro- shopping. The program entails shops at other locations. files of the two divisions are dif- giving associates “technical and In March, the “Oh! Only ferent, “the fashion direction is behavioral training to drive cus- Here” campaign launches very consistent,” Rodbell said. tomer engagement,” Rodbell said. at L&T and Hudson’s Bay to “There is a sharing of ideas and Furthering the mobile agen- spotlight exclusive products, strategy. When you really get da, saving passes (coupons) are whether they’re private label or into it, it’s quite consistent.”

being e-mailed so customers Aquino from market brands. There’s an The group operates with a can just swipe their mobile de- “Essential Dress” component central organization of 19 senior vices at the checkout counter John to the campaign that identifies executives who regularly fly be- to get the discount. L&T and “must-have” dresses from such tween Toronto and New York

Hudson’s Bay will also double photo by labels as Calvin Klein. to oversee L&T and Hudson’s the number of stores that can “Expanding our level of ex- Bay. The chains have their own ship merchandise, from 20 per- clusivity is one of our march- buyers, divisional merchandise cent of the chains to 40 percent Customer centricity is really my ing orders and part of our vi- managers and store organiza- by the summer, as it adds ful- sion for growth,” said Rodbell, tions, keeping the centralization fillment staffing to the doors. adding that 23 percent of the at the higher rung. Further behind the scenes, ad- vision for the future of Lord & Taylor assortment across As a regional vanced assortment planning the department chain, L&T is not an technology is being introduced and Hudson’s Bay. The question is, store group is exclu- easy growth proposi- to sharpen the focus on best- sive or with a lim- tion, considering the selling items and support the how do we build that up? ited distribution. U.S. is overstored. planning organization. It’s a mat- On the brick-and- Nor is Hudson’s Bay, ter of enabling shoppers to get — Liz RodbeLL, hudson’s bay co. mortar front, Lord & which with stores what they want when they want Taylor will open more across Canada, faces stores in Florida, rapidly increasing with a location in the competition from Miami area expected American retailers to be revealed soon. crossing the bor- The Miami move fol- der. These include lows October’s open- Target, as well as ing in Boca Raton, Nordstrom, which marking L&T’s return opens its first Cana- to Florida after pull- dian stores begin- ing out of the state ning next year, and 11 years ago. “Boca Wal-Mart, which on Raton is doing really Tuesday said it’s ’’ well. We are looking investing big to ac- at more locations in celerate Superstore Florida,” Rodbell said. openings. Rodbell said an “We’ve got to outlet strategy is also get the sales-per- being developed. L&T square-foot up and has just three outlets, maximize the whole and Hudson’s Bay, digital opportunity,” only one. A look from the 424 stressed Rodbell, She also empha- Fifth collection. who a few months sized the ongoing ago took a vacation $40 million renovation of L&T’s in Canada that wasn’t entirely Fifth Avenue flagship and other R&R. In her sneakers, she visited flagships in Canada. A new shoe stores in Quebec City, Toronto, department on the second floor Montreal and other cities to pick of the Fifth Avenue flagship up on the vibe. will make its debut this fall, “I saw the managers and as- expanding the space to 25,000 sociates interacting with custom- square feet from 20,000 and ers like they were guests in their providing a more elegant envi- home,” Rodbell said. “It was ronment. That will be followed something I have experienced by ready-to-wear renovations many times in our L&T and on levels two, three and four. Hudson’s Bay stores — not an un- Renovations at the Queen Street usual occurrence, but I had taken Hudson’s Bay flagship are also this trip to visit stores knowing I ongoing, including installing a was coming into my new role as 20,000-square-foot Kleinfeld’s president. I was there for inspi- bridal salon in May. ration and in that moment it just Rodbell suggests greater clicked — everything I do has to marketing theatrics, though she be about that interaction with the has an understated manner. She customer. Everything. Customer hints at staging fireworks for centricity is really my vision for Remaking the selling floors: renderings of the upcoming shoe floor Canada Day (July 1) and devel- the future of Lord & Taylor and at the Lord & Taylor flagship, and the 424 Fifth private-label shop. oping Christmas windows for Hudson’s Bay. The question is, the Queen Street Hudson’s Bay how do we build that up?”

w05a009a;6.indd 9 2/4/14 7:53 PM 02042014195442 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2014 Neiman’s, Target Testify in D.C. Balenciaga, Ghesquière Trial Date Set Court documents obtained by WWD the retailer initially said affected 40 million By MILES SOCHA in September show Balenciaga is seek- By KRISTI ELLIS consumers who purchased goods in stores ing damages of 7 million euros, or and potentially had their debit and credit card PARIS — A court here picked a $9.4 million at current exchange, over WASHINGTON — Neiman Marcus execu- information stolen. The retailer later said fashion-friendly date for a hearing an interview Ghesquière and Sauvé tives on Tuesday defended their actions fol- another 70 million consumers may have had in the lawsuit brought by Balenciaga granted to London-based fashion lowing a data breach at the luxury retailer personal data such as their names, addresses, against its former designer, Nicolas magazine System last year about the that impacted 1.1 million of its customers. e-mail addresses and phone numbers stolen. Ghesquière, for remarks the fashion Frenchman’s post-Balenciaga career. In testimony before the Senate Judiciary John J. Mulligan, executive vice president house deemed harmful. The suit mentions multiple Committee, Michael R. Kingston, senior vice and chief financial officer at Target, outlined The Tribunal de Grande Instance quotes by Ghesquière from the cover president and chief information officer at in his testimony the timeline (from Dec. 12 to of Paris has set July 1 — which falls story, which ran more than 30 pages. Neiman Marcus Group Ltd. LLC, said the Dec. 19) and steps Target took to identify and between the French men’s shows One of them reads: “…I began to feel company did not learn it had a “problem” neutralize the malware that was used in the and couture — to hear oral ar- as though I was sucked dr y, like they with its computer system until Jan. 2, which data security breach and to the first notifica- guments in the civil case, which wanted to steal my identity while try- was followed by a forensics investigation and tion to its customers. kicked off in September. ing to homogenize things.” disabling the malware. “From the outset, our response to the Until now, lawyers have been de- According to counsel for Kingston said Neiman’s merchant proces- breach has been focused on supporting positing written arguments, with the Balenciaga, when Ghesquière exited sor informed it on Dec. 13 that Visa had “an our guests and strengthening our security,” latest brief administrative session un- the house in November 2012, the sep- unknown number of fraudulently reported Mulligan told the senators. furling on Tuesday, where legal coun- aration agreement stipulated that he credit cards with a possible common point “The unfortunate reality is that we suf- sel for Balenciaga filed submissions refrain from declarations that could of purchase at a small number of Neiman fered a breach, and all businesses — and to defenses tabled in December. hurt the image of the fashion house, Marcus stores.” While Neiman’s pressed for their customers — are facing increasingly The Tribunal also set April 1 as owned by France’s Kering and now more information, the merchant processor sophisticated threats from cyber criminals,” another bookkeeping date, when being designed by Alexander Wang. did not respond until four days later, when Mulligan said counsel for Ghesquière and styl- Last November, Kering’s luxury it said 122 MasterCards were fraudulently Mulligan said Target now plans to take ist Marie-Amélie Sauvé, who is also rival, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis used. Kingston said that because of the mal- several steps to tighten its security of con- named in the suit, are to respond to Vuitton, tapped Ghesquière to be- ware’s sophisticated antidetection devices, sumer data, including “accelerating” its Tuesday’s filings. come Vuitton’s artistic director of the retailer did not learn from its forensic investment in chip technology for Target A legal source said a ruling could women’s collections, succeeding investigators that it had an “actual problem” REDcards and stores’ point of sale termi- come as early as September, but Marc Jacobs. with malware in its system until Jan. 2. It no- nals. “We believe that chip-enabled tech- cautioned that the trial date could Ghesquière is slated to show his tified customers eight days later. nologies are critical to providing enhanced yet shift from July 1. first collection for Vuitton on March 5. Kingston said current evidence in the ongo- protection for consumers,” Mulligan said. ing forensic investigation has revealed that the He also noted that Target is investing potential customer payment card account infor- $5 million in a campaign with the Better mation that was compromised by the malware Business Bureau, the National Cyber Security Violet Grey Entering E-commerce Alliance and the National Cyber- has also become an integral part of By John J. Mulligan and Forensics & Training Alliance to raise RACHEL STRUGATZ Grey’s vernacular — and the brand’s Michael R. Kingston public awareness about cyber security DNA. She uses it as both adjective and the dangers of consumer scams. LOS ANGELES — Cassandra and noun — whether describing the Target has not seen any fraud on its Huysentruyt Grey is getting ready glamorous beauty shots plastered proprietary debit and credit cards due to take her beauty Web site Violet on the walls of her workspace or to the breach and only a “low amount” Grey into the world of e-commerce referring to any of the “violets,” or of fraud on its Target Visa card, in time for the Oscars next month. personalities, on the Web site. Mulligan said. The first offerings on violetgrey. “Images are very important to Sen. Dianne Feinstein (D., Calif.) said com, the “Award Seasons Edit,” will me,” Grey said later at the com- she has consistently met resistance from focus on red-carpet beauty, high- pany’s headquarters, a cottage on the business community on breach noti- lighting the products used by the the chateau’s property. “Before I do fication legislation establishing a time celebrity makeup artists working a shoot, I always neurotically col- frame for companies to notify consum- overtime during awards season. lect, swipe and tape [photos] on the ers about data security breaches. “It’s Hollywood’s hero prod- wall. This is a mood board from Ben

JONAH KOCH “I believe that if somebody has an ucts,” Grey told WWD over break- Hassett, a photographer I am cur- account or uses credit at your institu- fast at the Chateau Marmont in West rently collaborating with. This is his tion and their data is breached, they Hollywood. “It’s the things that are interpretation of violet.” PHOTO BY should be notified so they can protect being used here.” On a tour of her office, an airy came from transactions at 77 of its 85 stores themselves,” Feinstein said. For Grey, it was important that white space that doubles as an arsenal between July and October. He said there is no “We agree with that completely,” Target’s the site carry the prestige brands – of beauty products, she holds up an indication that transactions on its Web sites or Mulligan said. “Our focus has been on having including Dior, Tom Ford, Giorgio oversize Tom Ford bronzer compact restaurants were compromised and that no PIN accurate national information balanced with she’s obsessed with right now. numbers were stolen because Neiman Marcus providing that notice as quickly as possible.… Cassandra Huysentruyt Grey Her vision is laser focused: a does not use PIN pads at its stores. We felt that given the scope and breadth [of beauty destination with a distinct “The policies of payment card brands pro- the breach] that public dissemination was ap- point of view that culls inspira- tect our customers from any liability for any propriate to let all of our guests know virtually tion from Hollywood. Tightly ed- unauthorized charges if the fraudulent charg- immediately. It was on the front pages of news- ited selections of product and cu- es are reported in a timely manner,” Kingston papers [around the country],” Mulligan said. ration are key. She adds that the said in his testimony. “Nonetheless, we have But Feinstein challenged Mulligan, argu- site’s reader (and soon to be con- now offered to any customer who shopped ing that customers should be notified direct- sumer) is one obsessed with this with us in the last year at either Neiman ly and individually. seemingly unattainable beauty Marcus Group stores or Web sites — whether As for Neiman’s, Kingston said, “Once we that stems from red-carpet cul- their card was exposed to the malware or knew that we had criminal activity inside our ture — where she refers to hair not — one year of free credit monitoring and systems and who the impact was, we reached and makeup as “armor.” identity-theft insurance,” Kingston said. out individually to our customers and in fact During the first year, the site Senators grilled Target Corp. and Neiman’s reached out to more customers [all customers will roll out all of the beauty cat- executives on the data security breaches that who shopped in Neiman Marcus stores for egories, starting with a strong have affected millions of consumers, probing the entire year] just to be cautious, because edit of color and nail products. the industry’s preparedness to prevent future it is important to us that our customer under- Next will come sun, then hair, attacks and legislation to establish national stands this is our primary concern.” fragrance and skin care. standards and breach notification. Senators also pressed the retailers and “Hollywood is the epicenter

Prior to the hearing, Sens. Richard other experts on the panel about imple- KIM of image and the art of trans- Blumenthal (D., Conn.) and Ed Markey (D., menting a more secure payment card system formation — and it’s not really Mass.) introduced legislation to help protect similar to one in Europe that embeds smart real; it’s a lot of smoke and mir- consumers’ personal and financial informa- chips in payment cards and requires a sepa- SEBASTIAN rors,” Grey said. “There’s been tion from hackers. rate PIN number to use. BY so much storytelling that has Senate Judiciary Committee Chairman “We have been proposing ‘Chip and Pin’ gone into creating these iconic PHOTO Patrick Leahy (D., Vt.), who has tried to ad- for a very long time,” Mulligan said. We are in movie stars that we all know — vance his own data privacy legislation for years the process of rolling it out to our stores…300 Armani and YSL — found in the and they were oftentimes created by and held the hearing, said he is “alarmed by stores already have guest payment devices, and kits of makeup artists. A beta ver- makeup artists and hairstylists.” the recent data breaches at Target and Neiman we are accelerating the $100 million invest- sion of the site went live in July, There’s also a physical retail Marcus and Michaels Stores.” ment to get those in our stores by the fourth with highly stylized editorials fea- component — a 1,100-square-foot “The investigations into those cyber attacks quarter of this year, and then products we offer turing the likes of Jessica Paré and space nestled between Chloé and are ongoing. Yet, it is already clear that these will have chips in them early next year.” Eva Mendez, as well as contribu- Isabel Marant on Melrose Place that attacks have compromised the privacy and Kingston said Neiman Marcus does not tions by industry veterans including will open to the public next month. security of millions of American consumers, currently use PIN pads in its stores but is Charlotte Tilbury, Pati Dubroff and For Grey, it was just as important potentially putting one in three Americans at willing to consider “anything that makes this Beau Nelson. to have a physical touch point for risk of identity theft and other cyber crimes,” process and consumer information safer, in- The name Violet Grey is a play Violet Grey as a digital one. Leahy said. “Public confidence is crucial to cluding Chip and Pin.” on the color of Elizabeth Taylor’s “Shopping online is modern by our economy. If consumers lose faith in busi- “As a practical matter, it is important for the eyes and Grey’s surname (she wed definition; that is the modern part ness’ ability to protect their personal informa- committee to understand that while the indus- husband Brad Grey, chairman and of our business,” Grey said. “[But] tion, our economic recovery will falter.” try will be safer with that, there is a lot of work chief executive officer of Paramount the studio is really going back to the Target reported a breach in December that to do to make that happen,” Kingston said. Pictures, in 2011). The word “violet” old guard way of serving clientele.” WWD wednesday, february 5, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Netflix this weekend — made Swarovski, Van Cleef & Arpels, of her schedule during New me want to watch some Chloé, Gemfields and more. York Fashion Week” on Fashion scoops fashion stuff,” he said. After The cover will feature Nina MyTheresa.com’s Instagram the fashion stuff was over, Agdal shot by Derek Kettela, as account, @mytheresaprgirl, the models walked out to a well as designer interviews and via the retailer’s Twitter A GLOBAL BOOST: DHL and the collection to one of the four very un-Vampire Weekend (with Tabitha Simmons and and Facebook accounts. There, IMG Fashion have launched cities for the show. soundtrack, the musical Georgina Chapman), celebrity she’ll chronicle the shows she DHL Exported, a program IMG will accept applications stylings of Missy Elliott’s “Get Ur and influencer features (with sees and parties and events aimed at assisting designers from Feb. 17 through April 2 Freak On.” — ERIK MAZA Olivia Wilde, Jessica Alba and she attends during the flurry of who are already successful at dhlexported.com. Finalists Hannah Bronfman), style guides fashion week. locally to gain momentum will be chosen in April for PRINTED MATTER: Editorialist, and fashion editorials. The Chung has more than internationally. Designers committee review, and winners the luxury accessories print magazine will include 700,000 followers on her apply and choose a fashion will be revealed in May. e-commerce Web site and products available to buy on Instagram account and 1.2 event: Mercedes-Benz Fashion — LISA LOCKWOOD online magazine, is venturing the Web site, but million Twitter Week in New York, London into print with a self-titled will also encompass For more followers, and will Fashion Week, Milan Fashion HIS FIRST TIME: Ezra Koenig, biannual title featuring a broader range scoops, see link her posts for Week or Mercedes-Benz the lead singer of the band exclusive content. (The site of fashion and MyTheresa.com Fashion Week Tokyo. Vampire Weekend, is known will continue to produce its accessories brands WWD.com. during fashion week A committee of regional for his preppy style, so it made quarterly digital issues as well.) as driven by trends to her own social experts in each market will sense that for he made Michael “When we launched, we and news. media accounts. review applicants to decide Bastian his first fashion show. never anticipated publishing As for the cover price: there The social media project who demonstrates the most “I’m here to learn,” he said. a print iteration,” said isn’t any. Readers can subscribe marks Chung’s second promise. DHL will then Seated front row among cofounder Kate Davidson Hudson. to complimentary issues of collaboration with MyTheresa. sponsor a chosen designer far more experienced editors, “By the time we launched the magazine’s print issues on com, after the model and for two consecutive seasons the singer, in his trademark our second digital issue, editorialist.com. presenter took part in the at each of the four fashion white sneakers, looked a the demand and reader — KRISTI GARCED retailer’s interview and film weeks. Designers will receive little bit lost as he waited for engagement with the content series called “MyTheresa. a guaranteed spot on the the designer’s show to start far exceeded our highest CHUNG’S NEW ROLE: MyTheresa. com Women” in July. Chung schedule along with a funded Tuesday at the Rubin Museum expectations....Producing com is tapping into Alexa Chung’s clearly struck a chord with and produced runway show. of Art in Manhattan. a print issue was purely considerable social media the retailer’s audience, as DHL will underwrite all He was motivated to come outgrowth of this demand.” clout. As of Saturday, Chung MyTheresa.com noted that its logistics costs of producing to his first runway show by an The first issue, which will serve as MyTheresa.com’s e-mail newsletter publicizing the collection, including inspired Netflix recommendation launches in New York and social media guest editor for Chung’s interviews and international shipping and he caught recently. Paris on Friday during the duration of New York editorial shoot had the highest exporting of fabrics and “I watched the Diana New York Fashion Week, Fashion Week. The retailer said click-through rate of any of its supplies, as well as exporting Vreeland documentary on has advertisers including Chung will post “the highlights newsletters. — NINA JONES Bailey’s Bunch “IT’S HARD TO KNOW where For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. to look,” said actress Gwendoline David Christie, casting her eyes Bailey over a host of famous faces photographed by David Bailey. “Between all these photos and the incredible people milling about, I can’t concentrate — and I have a sticky hand from spilling my drink.” Her date, Giles Deacon, was Roses & Maxway Stores already plotting a return to “Bailey’s Stardust,” the  #! # !#!## !#  photographer’s retrospective  # """"""" ###
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    Monday night. “Probably two.” RESIDENCE INN Lining the gallery walls is a Times Square Room •1033 Avenue of the Americas, New York, 212.768.0007 roll call of some of the biggest Call Anita Thomasson for appointment • 252.430.2051 names from the 20th and 21st centuries, including Nelson For more photos, see Mandela, Yoko Ono, Marianne Faithfull, Bob Dylan, Alice Cooper, David WWD.com/eye. im Jenkins t Spaces Bowie, Johnny Depp, Peter Sellers, Karl Lagerfeld, Grace Jones, Kate Moss, by John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, COMMERCIAL photo Vivienne Westwood and Andy REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED PRODUCTIONS Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- Warhol. There’s even a “selfie” with and the horizons are broad, to Full service shop to the trade. on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ Salvador Dalí, taken at Le Meurice in say the least: Alongside the Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 stores. If you sell to fashion accessory buyers, email: [email protected]. Paris in 1972, and neatly demonstrating celebrities, pop stars and models, SEEKING BRAND NAME LICENSE for Young Men’s SALES EXECUTIVE Bailey’s fashionable forward thinking. there are documentary images of Knit Tops, T-shirts, Sport Shirts, Waverly Grey Contemporary Under a giant image of Ethiopian refugees in Sudan 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Hoodies and Sweaters Sportswear line seeks aggressive sales Menswear Showrooms E-mail: professional to develop & maintain Michael Caine, the photographer from 1984, and photos of D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 [email protected] Online, International and domestic accounts. Must have strong and his wife Catherine welcomed indigenous people in Papua, relationship w/Buyers. old friends and past subjects to New Guinea, and Australia. Showrooms & Lofts Email resume: [email protected] eye BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS the show, which also features Zandra Rhodes, one of Bailey’s Great ’New’ Office Space Avail a room dedicated to his wife recent subjects, said, “He called ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 and portraits of his family. “I’m and wanted to shoot me for this The showroom has 1,288.00 sq.feet. Excellent Sales Pro. Location: I have Major Box Contacts, Looking studiously avoiding my mother’s room,” exhibit. He’s always great on a shoot. 1407 Broadway Suite 3605 for Sales Opportunity New York, NY 10018 Call:: 267 969 0617 said Bailey’s son Sascha. “There’s a lot So bossy. He’d shout, ‘Pull yourself Tel: 212-354-5690 ex#2226 of nudity, and I have seen my mother together!’” The night’s other guests [email protected] naked enough times, just around the included , , Jerry Hall Damon Albarn Gavin LISA FREEDE To subscribe, visit our website house.” That particular room stands as Turk, Georgia May Jagger, Grayson Perry, Established, profitable, & growing an ode to Bailey’s wife of 30 years, and Marie Helvin, Nick Rhodes, Bill Wyman, Jenson exponentially costume jewelry www.wwd.com/subscribenow features portraits of his children — Button, Moss and the recording artist brand, looking for strategic investor/partner. or call 800.289.0273 Paloma, Fenton and Sascha — as well as known as Mr Hudson. Serious inquiries only. one of the photographer and his Jack “I need a top-up,” said Hudson, Exceptional Opportunity. Russell, Pig. whose track with Miley Cyrus and the 713.777.3311 [email protected] Bailey himself selected the 250 rapper Future is out this week. “I’ve only images for the Hugo Boss-sponsored had three drinks, but that’s an uneven exhibition, which spans five decades number, and it doesn’t sit well with me.” of his career, and is one of the Did Cyrus manage to get her twerking (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] gallery’s largest-scale photographic hips on him? “No,” he said. “I didn’t give shows to date. It runs through June 1, her the chance.” — JULIA NEEL

w05a011a.indd 11 2/4/14 8:06 PM 02042014200731 12 WWD wednesday, february 5, 2014 WWD.COM Topshop Sets Fifth Avenue Unit in Manhattan {Continued from page one} store and at head office. He said he knows the uptown Topshop, A rendering of the Asked how close the brand is to which is set to open on Halloween, will 5th Avenue Topshop. achieving its $1 billion goal, Green said, need to perform alongside its upscale “We’ve got to get to $500 million first.” He neighbors such as Saks Fifth Avenue, so said he’s pleased so far with the progress the focus is on a premium offer. Other Topshop has been making in the U.S., nearby stores include Michael Kors, Ted despite some admitted bumps along the Baker and Hennes & Mauritz. way. “We want to be careful not to plant The new Topshop won’t look any- our flag and leave it there. And, hopeful- thing like the Oxford Circus one, Green ly, there won’t be any accidents,” he said. stressed, and will incorporate the build- In 2012, Green sold a 25 percent stake ing’s wraparound glass window feature. in Topshop and Topman to Leonard The building’s upper stories have Art Green & Partners with the aim of accel- Deco detailing, while the lower floors erating the brands’ expansion into the have a more contemporary feel. U.S. market. He said the relationship The new store will carry full collec- with his partner remains sound. tions for Topshop and Topman, including Regarding the brand’s latest collabo- collaborations, exclusives and trend-led ration with Kate Moss, the first collec- mainline collections. tion is due to drop on May 1 online and in “We’ll be among the higher-end de- Topshop stores. The line will also be car- partment stores, and serving the upper ried at Topshop’s Nordstrom units. The end of the market,” Green said. “We’ll retailer currently has 42 shops-in-shop at be developing the personal shopping Nordstrom and is discussing bumping that offer, and we’re discussing doing an Green also said he’s thinking about of J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou and number up to 52 stores by the spring. There ‘edited’ section of merchandise, show- inviting a young American designer — Christopher Kane. are 49 Topman units, and that number is casing things in a slightly different or two — into the Topshop stable. “Who Topshop has also opened its first U.S. set to climb to 55 over the same period. way, and doing Unique product for the knows? I wouldn’t rule out stocking a col- office in Manhattan’s SoHo neighbor- Worldwide, over the next six months, American market,” he added, referring to lection by a young American designer,” hood, and hired a small American buy- 15 freestanding Topshop stores are set Topshop’s runway collection that shows said Green, pointing to the collaborations ing team. He said “several hundred new to open in eight countries, including during London Fashion Week. that the retailer has done with the likes jobs” will be created at the new uptown Russia, Turkey and Vietnam.

meetings” with current employees. Lauder Calls on Seymour On a slightly brighter note, the company said it MeMo pad promoted Mark Ford to executive vice president of campaign will speak to the advertising sales, where he will report to Ripp and By JULIe NAUGHTON beautiful complexity that TIME TO REORGANIZE: In the wake of its spin-off from oversee Time Inc.’s branded solutions division. makes her who she is.” parent company Time Warner in the second quarter, — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD STePHANIe SeYMOUR is Hudis added that Time Inc. revealed details of its restructuring, definitely going to listen to Seymour is an addition which will include an undisclosed number of layoffs. A PEEK AT PORTER: Net-a-porter.com’s women’s print her mother more often. to the current spokesmo- “Today, we are beginning a restructuring process that title, the long-awaited Porter, will be unveiled After Seymour began del beauty roster, which will move us in the right direction by: eliminating today with Gisele Bündchen gracing the front cover, modeling as a teenager, her includes Carolyn Murphy our three brand operating clusters; streamlining photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, mother — a longtime fan of and Constance Jablonski, decision-making across the entire organization; and and styled by Alex White. While the print title does not estée Lauder spokesmodel and not a replacement for completing the integration of American express boast any whiz-bang techie features, it is twinned with Karen Graham — told her anyone. Publishing,” Time Inc. chief executive officer Joe Ripp a digital version, and subscribers will receive both. daughter that one day she Seymour has long been said via an internal memo sent to staff Tuesday. All of the advertising in the print title will feature in would model for the brand. interested in beauty. In Media reports have speculated job cuts in the the digital one, with Web links from each ad to the A few days before this 1998, she wrote “Stephanie neighborhood of 500, but a source with knowledge brand’s homepage. An iPad app will let readers scan past Christmas, she got that Seymour’s Beauty Secrets of the situation said layoffs would be “significantly and shop items from the page and allow access to long-awaited call. “It was for Dummies,” and ap- lower” than that figure. embedded video, animation and 3-D features. There my Christmas present,” peared in beauty advertis- Still, Ripp’s memo did point to former Amex titles are also features that will allow readers to scrapbook Seymour said during an ex- ing earlier in her career as a locus for the majority of the cuts. In the fall, and share the magazine’s content. clusive interview Monday. for Revlon, L’Oréal and Time Inc. acquired a slate of Amex publications, editorial content features a variety of fashion “The first thing I did was including Departures, Food & Wine and Travel brands — whether or not they are stocked by Net-a- call my mother — and she + Leisure. The company said it would not only porter — as well as watches and jewelry, beauty, travel laughed and said, ‘How cute Stephanie Seymour eliminate job “redundancies” there, but it would and culture. One of the sections at the front of the book — I can’t believe you re- also consolidate Time Inc. into a single portfolio is called “Art of Style,” and in the first issue that section member that!’ But it always under two executives: Evelyn Webster, executive vice features an item called “Dressing Up by Alber Elbaz” — stuck with me. Whenever president and group president of the lifestyle group, an interview with the designer. There are also stories I heard they were looking and Todd Larsen, executive vice president and group on celebrities, fashion insiders and accomplished for models, I would always president of the news and sports group. women, all seen through a global lens. From the cross my fingers and hope. “Since we have an extensive collection of brands, start, the magazine has billed itself as a title with an For a model to work with evelyn and Todd will each supervise a number of international perspective, resonating with a reader estée Lauder is the pin- them while collaborating across the business,” Ripp who has long been in love with fashion magazines. nacle of things. And to be a said. “evelyn will manage All You, Black Ink, Cooking The 300-page issue boasts 72 pages of advertising. part of major brand, which Light, Coastal Living, Departures, essence, Food & Chanel has nabbed the front gatefold, while is hiring models rather than Wine, Health, InStyle, People StyleWatch, People Christian Dior has secured the back cover. actresses, is also huge.” en español, Real Simple, Southern Living, Sunset, The gloss and digital innovation doesn’t come Despite a sloppy winter This Old House, Travel + Leisure and IPC. Todd will cheaply, however: The price of a single page ad storm that hit New York manage People, entertainment Weekly, Time, Sports opposite editorial is 45,000 pounds, or $73,481 at City full-force Monday, Illustrated, Fortune, CNNMoney, Money, Golf, SI for current exchange, more than 40 percent higher than Seymour was proud to note Kids, Time for Kids and Gex in Mexico.” some of Porter’s competitors. The U.K. cover price she was on time for her As a result, David Geithner, executive vice president is in the neighborhood of 6 pounds, or $9.80, at least first Lauder ad shoot in and group president of the style and entertainment 50 percent higher than other upscale fashion titles Manhattan. “I looked out group, which oversees marquee titles People and on the newsstand. the window and was like, ‘I InStyle, was let go after a 21-year run at the company. Porter will have a print run of about 350,000, and am not going to be late for Dior, among others. This Ed Kelly, ceo of American express Publishing, was will be distributed in 60 countries worldwide, with this shoot!’” Mario Sorrenti is her first spokesmodel also laid off after 25 years at Amex. In his own memo six issues planned for the year. Porter’s circulation shot the campaign, which beauty gig. to employees, Kelly expressed his gratitude to his numbers will not be audited, although industry is expected to be unveiled In addition to the Lauder colleagues and said “today’s news marks a new sources estimate that average net circulation per this fall. contract, Seymour is hard chapter for American express Publishing as the issue will be about 100,000. That compares with Lauder executives de- at work on another project brands more fully integrate into Time Inc.” British Vogue’s Audit Bureau of Circulation figure of clined to comment further involving something she In an e-mail to staff, Webster said it would shutter 200,608 for print and digital, and Harper’s Bazaar’s on Seymour’s first cam- knows well: a lingerie line Amex’s executive Travel magazine, and shared that 117,938, also for print and digital. paign. The ads are “around she is designing with a close the majority of Amex employees would move into the Distribution channels include news agents, travel a new elevated platform in friend. “We’re putting to- Time & Life Building in Midtown Manhattan from outlets, bookstores and some supermarkets. Net- the luxury beauty space, gether our first collection the Hippodrome Building near Bryant Park. a-porter will also sell copies of the new title via its which is expected to be now,” said Seymour, a for- While insiders nervously await the axe to fall, the “Add to Basket” functionality while members of Net’s launched this fall,” said mer Victoria’s Secret Angel. full picture of the layoffs is likely to come into focus 1.3 million member database have already received Jane Hertzmark Hudis, “I’m enjoying being on the rather quickly, as noted by Ripp, who offered: “We discounted offers on subscriptions, depending on the global brand president of other side of the business can continue the recent pattern of annual layoffs mode of payment. For example, annual direct debit estée Lauder. “Stephanie — actually designing. It’s for years to come or we can get ahead of and then customers will be charged 25 pounds per year, or represents modern women great to be able to put what RUDD reverse this trend by developing the investment $40.83, saving 28 percent off the full price. today in such a beautifully I’ve learned about cloth- ott capital and the ideas to restore our business.” And there may well be more paper in the articulated way and she ing and fit together in this SC On Thursday, the ceo will meet with senior pipeline: According to industry sources, a men’s by represents modern beau- line. I feel like I know what leadership to discuss “priorities” for the next glossy print title has been mooted. It could launch

ty and luxury to us. This women want and need.” photo several months, and he will conduct “town hall as early as next year. — WWD STAFF

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