Numerical Modeling of Shoreline Response to Storm Tides and Sea Level Rise
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A Near-Shore Linear Wave Model with the Mixed Finite Volume and Finite Difference Unstructured Mesh Method
fluids Article A Near-Shore Linear Wave Model with the Mixed Finite Volume and Finite Difference Unstructured Mesh Method Yong G. Lai 1,* and Han Sang Kim 2 1 Technical Service Center, U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, Denver, CO 80225, USA 2 Bay-Delta Office, California Department of Water Resources, Sacramento, CA 95814, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-303-445-2560 Received: 5 October 2020; Accepted: 1 November 2020; Published: 5 November 2020 Abstract: The near-shore and estuary environment is characterized by complex natural processes. A prominent feature is the wind-generated waves, which transfer energy and lead to various phenomena not observed where the hydrodynamics is dictated only by currents. Over the past several decades, numerical models have been developed to predict the wave and current state and their interactions. Most models, however, have relied on the two-model approach in which the wave model is developed independently of the current model and the two are coupled together through a separate steering module. In this study, a new wave model is developed and embedded in an existing two-dimensional (2D) depth-integrated current model, SRH-2D. The work leads to a new wave–current model based on the one-model approach. The physical processes of the new wave model are based on the latest third-generation formulation in which the spectral wave action balance equation is solved so that the spectrum shape is not pre-imposed and the non-linear effects are not parameterized. New contributions of the present study lie primarily in the numerical method adopted, which include: (a) a new operator-splitting method that allows an implicit solution of the wave action equation in the geographical space; (b) mixed finite volume and finite difference method; (c) unstructured polygonal mesh in the geographical space; and (d) a single mesh for both the wave and current models that paves the way for the use of the one-model approach. -
SWAN Technical Manual
SWAN TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION SWAN Cycle III version 40.51 SWAN TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION by : The SWAN team mail address : Delft University of Technology Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section P.O. Box 5048 2600 GA Delft The Netherlands e-mail : [email protected] home page : http://www.fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/index.htmhttp://www.fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/sw Copyright (c) 2006 Delft University of Technology. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sec- tions, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is available at http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1. Contents 1 Introduction 1 1.1 Historicalbackground. 1 1.2 Purposeandmotivation . 2 1.3 Readership............................. 3 1.4 Scopeofthisdocument. 3 1.5 Overview.............................. 4 1.6 Acknowledgements ........................ 5 2 Governing equations 7 2.1 Spectral description of wind waves . 7 2.2 Propagation of wave energy . 10 2.2.1 Wave kinematics . 10 2.2.2 Spectral action balance equation . 11 2.3 Sourcesandsinks ......................... 12 2.3.1 Generalconcepts . 12 2.3.2 Input by wind (Sin).................... 19 2.3.3 Dissipation of wave energy (Sds)............. 21 2.3.4 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions (Snl) ......... 27 2.4 The influence of ambient current on waves . 33 2.5 Modellingofobstacles . 34 2.6 Wave-inducedset-up . 35 2.7 Modellingofdiffraction. 35 3 Numerical approaches 39 3.1 Introduction........................... -
Storm Waves Focusing and Steepening in the Agulhas Current: Satellite Observations and Modeling T ⁎ Y
Remote Sensing of Environment 216 (2018) 561–571 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Remote Sensing of Environment journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/rse Storm waves focusing and steepening in the Agulhas current: Satellite observations and modeling T ⁎ Y. Quilfena, , M. Yurovskayab,c, B. Chaprona,c, F. Ardhuina a IFREMER, Univ. Brest, CNRS, IRD, Laboratoire d'Océanographie Physique et Spatiale (LOPS), Brest, France b Marine Hydrophysical Institute RAS, Sebastopol, Russia c Russian State Hydrometeorological University, Saint Petersburg, Russia ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT Keywords: Strong ocean currents can modify the height and shape of ocean waves, possibly causing extreme sea states in Extreme waves particular conditions. The risk of extreme waves is a known hazard in the shipping routes crossing some of the Wave-current interactions main current systems. Modeling surface current interactions in standard wave numerical models is an active area Satellite altimeter of research that benefits from the increased availability and accuracy of satellite observations. We report a SAR typical case of a swell system propagating in the Agulhas current, using wind and sea state measurements from several satellites, jointly with state of the art analytical and numerical modeling of wave-current interactions. In particular, Synthetic Aperture Radar and altimeter measurements are used to show the evolution of the swell train and resulting local extreme waves. A ray tracing analysis shows that the significant wave height variability at scales < ~100 km is well associated with the current vorticity patterns. Predictions of the WAVEWATCH III numerical model in a version that accounts for wave-current interactions are consistent with observations, al- though their effects are still under-predicted in the present configuration. -
Hurricane Waves in the Ocean
WAVE-INDUCED SURGES DURING HURRICANE OPAL Chung-Sheng Wu*, Arthur A. Taylor, Jye Chen and Wilson A. Shaffer Meteorological Development Laboratory National Weather Service/NOAA, Silver Spring, Maryland 1. INTRODUCTION Hurricanes storm surges and waves at the coastline Holliday (1977) developed a simple formula relating the have been the cause of damages in the coastal zone. cyclone’s pressure drop to maximum sustained wind for On the U.S. Gulf Coast, for example, Hurricane Opal the Western Pacific. A more general form was (1995) made landfall near the time of low tide and proposed by Holland (1980). The merit of these models resulted in severe flooding by storm surges and waves. is that they are analytical models for the surface wind Storm surge can penetrate miles inland from the coast. profile in a hurricane. A similar formulation was applied Waves ride above the surge levels, causing wave runup to the wave model in the present work. The framework and mean water level set-up. These wave effects are of the hurricane wave model is described below. significant near the landfall area and are affected by the process that hurricane approaches the coastline. 2.1 HURRICANE WIND AND STORM SURGES During 1950-1977, hurricane wave models based on Holland (1980) employed a standard pressure profile for significant wave height and period were developed (e.g. a tropical cyclone and obtained the popular gradient Bretschneider, 1957; Ross, 1976) for marine weather wind profile. Jelesnianski and Taylor (1976) assumed a prediction and offshore oil industry design. Cardone surface wind profile in the pressure equation. -
Semi-Empirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves: Part I, Definition, Calibration and Validation
A Generated using V3.0 of the official AMS L TEX template–journal page layout FOR AUTHOR USE ONLY, NOT FOR SUBMISSION! Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves: Part I, definition, calibration and validation. Fabrice Ardhuin ∗, Jean-Franc¸ois Filipot and Rudy Magne Service Hydrographique et Oc´eanographique de la Marine, Brest, France Erick Rogers Oceanography Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, USA Alexander Babanin Swinburne University, Hawthorn, VA, Australia Pierre Queffeulou Ifremer, Laboratoire d’Oc´eanographie Spatiale, Plouzan´e, France Lotfi Aouf and Jean-Michel Lefevre UMR GAME, M´et´eo-France - CNRS, Toulouse, France Aron Roland Technological University of Darmstadt, Germany Andre van der Westhuysen Deltares, Delft, The Netherlands Fabrice Collard CLS, Division Radar, Plouzan´e, France ABSTRACT New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and wave breaking only affects spectral components such that the non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced, together with a reduction of wind-wave generation term for short waves, otherwise taken from Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. -
Chart Datum and Bathymetry Correction to Support Managing Coral Grouper in Lepar and Pongok Island Waters, South Bangka Regency
ILMU KELAUTAN Desember 2018 Vol 23(4):179-186 ISSN 0853-7291 Chart Datum and Bathymetry Correction to Support Managing Coral Grouper in Lepar and Pongok Island Waters, South Bangka Regency Sudirman Adibrata1,2*, Fredinan Yulianda3, Mennofatria Boer3, and I Wayan Nurjaya4 1Program of Coastal and Marine Resource Management, Bogor Agricultural University Jl. Agatis Campus IPB Darmaga Bogor 16680, Indonesia 2Program of Aquatic Resource Management, Faculty Agriculture, Fishery and Biology, Bangka Belitung Unversity Jl. Balunijuk Merawang District, Bangka, Bangka Belitung, Indonesia 3Department of Aquatic Resource Management, Fisheries and Marine Science Faculty, Bogor Agricultural University; Jl. Agatis Campus IPB Darmaga Bogor 16680, Indonesia 4Department of Marine Science and Technology, Fisheries and Marine Science, Bogor Agricultural University, Jl. Agatis Campus IPB Darmaga Bogor 16680, Indonesia Email: [email protected] Abstract Corrected bathimetry data is highly required to improve the quality of sea floor map, for a range of purposes including coastal environmental monitoring and management. This research was aimed to know chart datum values used for correctting bathymetry data at Bar-cheeked coral trout grouper (Plectropomus maculates) fishing ground in Lepar and Pongok Island waters 02o57’00”S and 106o50’00”E and 02o53’00”S and 107o03’00”E, respectively, South Bangka Regency, Indonesia. The study was carried out from November 2016 to October 2017, tidal data used for 15 days from September 16–30, 2017 using simple random sampling technique with the total of 845 points of measurements. To calculate tyde harmonic constituents values this study employed admiralty method resulting 10 major components. Results of this research indicated that harmonic coefficient values of M2, M2, S2, N2, K1, O1, M4, MS4, K2, and P1, were 0.0345 m, 0.0608 m, 0.0276 m, 0.4262 m, 0.2060 m, 0.0119 m, 0.0082 m, 0.0164 m, and 0.1406 m, respectively. -
Coastal Tide Gauge Tsunami Warning Centers
Products and Services Available from NOAA NCEI Archive of Water Level Data Aaron Sweeney,1,2 George Mungov, 1,2 Lindsey Wright 1,2 Introduction NCEI’s Role More than just an archive. NCEI: NOAA's National Centers for Environmental Information (NCEI) operates the World Data Service (WDS) for High resolution delayed-mode DART data are stored onboard the BPR, • Quality controls the data and Geophysics (including tsunamis). The NCEI/WDS provides the long-term archive, data management, and and, after recovery, are sent to NCEI for archive and processing. Tide models the tides to isolate the access to national and global tsunami data for research and mitigation of tsunami hazards. Archive gauge data is delivered to NCEI tsunami waves responsibilities include the global historic tsunami event and run-up database, the bottom pressure recorder directly through NOS CO-OPS and • Ensures meaningful data collected by the Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART®) Program, coastal tide gauge Tsunami Warning Centers. Upon documentation for data re-use data (analog and digital marigrams) from US-operated sites, and event-specific data from international receipt, NCEI’s role is to ensure • Creates standard metadata to gauges. These high-resolution data are used by national warning centers and researchers to increase our the data are available for use and enable search and discovery understanding and ability to forecast the magnitude, direction, and speed of tsunami events. reuse by the community. • Converts data into standard formats (netCDF) to ease data re-use The Data • Digitizes marigrams Data essential for tsunami detection and warning from • Adds data to inventory timeline the Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of to ensure no gaps in data Tsunamis (DART®) stations and the coastal tide gauges. -
Appendix D — Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport
Appendix D Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport, and Wave Modeling Appendix D Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport, and Wave Modeling Spirit Lake Sediment Site Prepared for U. S. Steel Corporation November 2014 325 S. Lake Avenue, Suite 700 Duluth, MN 55802-2323 Phone: 218.529.8200 Fax: 218.529.8202 Summary of Hydrodynamic, Sediment Transport, and Wave Modeling Spirit Lake Sediment Site November 2014 Contents 1.0 Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Spirit Lake Physical System ......................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1.1 Bathymetric Scans ..................................................................................................................................................... 2 1.1.2 Hydrodynamic Data .................................................................................................................................................. 2 1.1.2.1 River Discharge ................................................................................................................................................. 3 1.1.2.2 Water Level ........................................................................................................................................................ 3 1.1.2.3 Flow Velocity .................................................................................................................................................... -
SC1 Some Comments on 'Bardsey – an Island in a Strong Tidal Stream
SC1 Some comments on ’Bardsey – an island in a strong tidal stream Underestimating coastal tides due to unresolved topography’ by Green and Pugh I am not the topical editor or one of the reviewers for this paper, but I gave it a read and have some detailed comments that I hope are useful. I thought it was an interesting paper but the text is not very good and there are many minor problems, especially in the first half. I list these below. I will leave the official reviewers to comment more on the science. 19, 21, 24, 25 and many other places in the text - there are often mentions of ’altimeter data’ or ’altimetry database’ but the authors do not use that but instead use the outputs of a hydrodynamic tide model (TPXO9) in which altimeter data (and possibly tide gauge data) have been assimilated. There is a difference between these things and ’altimeter data’ is a complete misnomer. On the other hand, sometimes the language is correct e.g. line 18 ’altimetry constrained product’. Fine. - Corrected to “altimetry constrained product” or, more specifically, “TPXO9” throughout. Also everyone knows that altimetry has a coarse spatial (and temporal) sampling and provides elevations and not currents. But on line 14 we read about tidal streams and next line says they will be unresolved by altimetry. Well, yes, of course they will, whatever the spatial resolution. - This sentence (on line 19) has been rewritten: “…and that even in this latest [TPXO9] altimetry constrained product the derived tidal stream is seriously under-represented due to the island not being resolved.” So I think the text has to be gone through and the misleading language corrected. -
IHO-TWCWG Inventory of Tide Gauges and Current Meters Used by Member States – Correct to 13 June 2018
IHO-TWCWG Inventory of Tide gauges and Current meters used by Member States – Correct to 13 June 2018 Long Term (National 3 Analogue gauges type A- Operated by the Hydrographic Service of the Algerian Navy. Float gauges recording to paper. Algeria Network) OTT-R16 Digital gauges not yet installed and there is no real time data transmission. Casey, Davi and Mawson Pressure 600-kg concrete moorings containing gauges in areas relatively free of icebergs have operated Stations for eight years at Mawson and Davis and at Casey for five. A new shore gauge at Mawson Antarctica will use an inclined borehole to the sea, heated to stop the water from freezing. (Australia) Macquarie Island Acoustic and Pressure Access to the sea was gained via an inclined bore hole, with the gauge and electronics in a sealed fibre glass dome at the top of the hole SEAFRAME Operated by Bureau of Meteorology, Australia. Long Term (National Electromagnetic Tide Pole, Please see www.icsm.gov.au Network) Acoustic, Float, Pressure, publication “Australian Tides Manual” State Operated- Bubbler, Radar (in most Australia cases Vegapuls), Gas purge, For details of which type deployed where. Radar with Shaft encoder As most of the permanent gauges are installed by other Agencies details can be sought. InterOcean S4 Pressure Short Term (AHS) gauge Bottom mounted and usually installed with a tide staff Or RBR TGR-1050 Mina’ Salman at HSD The whole system was installed May – June 2014 and is still under trial especially with data Jetty. Network connected transfer to SLRB’s database. Therefore the BTN system has not yet been released for public to web base hosted by SLRB. -
A Modelling Approach for the Assessment of Wave-Currents Interaction in the Black Sea
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article A Modelling Approach for the Assessment of Wave-Currents Interaction in the Black Sea Salvatore Causio 1,* , Stefania A. Ciliberti 1 , Emanuela Clementi 2, Giovanni Coppini 1 and Piero Lionello 3 1 Fondazione Centro Euro-Mediterraneo sui Cambiamenti Climatici, Ocean Predictions and Applications Division, 73100 Lecce, Italy; [email protected] (S.A.C.); [email protected] (G.C.) 2 Fondazione Centro Euro-Mediterraneo sui Cambiamenti Climatici, Ocean Modelling and Data Assimilation Division, 40127 Bologna, Italy; [email protected] 3 Department of Biological and Environmental Sciences and Technologies, University of Salento—DiSTeBA, 73100 Lecce, Italy; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Abstract: In this study, we investigate wave-currents interaction for the first time in the Black Sea, implementing a coupled numerical system based on the ocean circulation model NEMO v4.0 and the third-generation wave model WaveWatchIII v5.16. The scope is to evaluate how the waves impact the surface ocean dynamics, through assessment of temperature, salinity and surface currents. We provide also some evidence on the way currents may impact on sea-state. The physical processes considered here are Stokes–Coriolis force, sea-state dependent momentum flux, wave-induced vertical mixing, Doppler shift effect, and stability parameter for computation of effective wind speed. The numerical system is implemented for the Black Sea basin (the Azov Sea is not included) at a horizontal resolution of about 3 km and at 31 vertical levels for the hydrodynamics. Wave spectrum has been discretised into 30 frequencies and 24 directional bins. -
Study of a Wind-Wave Numerical Model and Its Integration with an Ocean and an Oil-Spill Numerical Models
Alma Mater Studiorum di Bologna Facolta` di Scienze MM.FF.NN. Tesi di Laurea Magistrale in Analisi e Gestione dell'Ambiente Study of a Wind-Wave Numerical Model and its integration with an Ocean and an Oil-Spill Numerical Models Relatore Candidato Prof.ssa Nadia Pinardi Diego Bruciaferri Correlatori Dott.ssa Michela De Dominicis Dott. Francesco Trotta Anno Accademico 2012/2013 Given for one instant an intelligence which could comprehend all the forces by which nature is animated, ... to it nothing would be uncertain, and the future as the past would be present to its eyes. Laplace, Oeuvres Desidero ringraziare mio padre, mia madre e i miei fratelli che hanno sempre creduto in me e hanno sempre supportato le mie scelte. Desidero inoltre ringraziare la Prof.ssa Nadia Pinardi, che, con il suo in- coraggiamento e la sua contagiosa passione per la fisica e il mare, non ha mai smesso di motivarmi nel superare gli scogli piu' difficili incontrati du- rante questo lavoro. Un ringraziamento speciale va alla Dott.ssa Michela De Dominicis, al Dott. Luca Giacomelli e al Dott. Francesco Trotta, senza l'aiuto dei quali questo lavoro non avrebbe potuto essere portato a termine. Un grazie poi a tutti i Prof.ri del mio corso di Laurea, per l'entusiasmo che hanno messo nelle loro lezioni e per i loro insegnamenti. Un grazie a Claudia, Giulia, Emanuela, Augusto e a tutti i ragazzi che hanno frequentato i laboratori del SINCEM, perche' tutti mi hanno lasciato qualcosa. Un grazie poi va ai miei compagni di corso, al `crucco' Matteo, al `terroncello' Roberto, a Francesco, Riccardo, Michela, Manuela, Caterina e tutti gli altri, per i bei due anni passati insieme.