The Awakari Valley Experience A self-drive adventure to the West Coast to see wild red deer in their natural habitat The Awakari Valley Experience

Johnny Currie’s property in the depths of the Awakari Valley near Westport, on the West Coast of ’s , is a natural wildlife paradise.

The property hosts a large herd of wild red deer Johnny lives on the property in a bush hut similar that nonchalantly graze and often fight amongst to that his great-grandfather and great uncles used themselves for leadership rights, unconcerned and surveying the bush for its timber and minerals in the comfortable with human onlookers. 1900s. They started in the Charleston area extracting lignite coal for sale in Westport which led on to The property borders the north western flanks of logging and some gold prospecting. the at Charleston and the deer frolic on river flats and in the native forest on Johnny has dedicated the property as a reserve Johnny’s property all year round. for the wild deer which roam amongst the regenerating native bush and crystal clear mountain They can be observed in their natural habitat from streams, untroubled apart from interested and a hilltop lookout or viewed from the comfort of passive onlookers. Hunting has been prohibited Outwest Tours custom built 4WD vehicles, with their for thirty years. clear-glass canopies allowing stunning views of the deer close up. The attraction is unique in New Zealand. At times, up to fifty wild deer can be seen grazing on the river Johnny Currie and his family have a lifelong flats with visitors taking pictures at relatively close connection with the Awakari Valley, going back range from the purpose-built Unimog vehicles. more than a century. From his days as a youth in the 1940s hunting wild goats with a dog and Interrupted only by the sound of the native birds a pocket knife, to leading bush gangs in the 1960s, and flowing streams, Johnny’s Journey paints a logging the valuable native rimu trees for timber picture of yesteryear when wild animals roamed production at the local sawmills, Johnny’s heart unfettered and thrived in synch with nature. and soul lie in the Valley. Johnny’s Journey has a natural advantage unsurpassed anywhere in New Zealand. Johnny Currie The Deer The Awakari Valley Experience The Deer 5

The Deer The wild red deer of the Awakari Valley can trace their ancestry back to Europe in the 1920s. They are regarded as the largest deer species in New Zealand. They were imported for hunting by New Zealand acclimatisation societies from game parks in the United Kingdom with the red deer adapting easily to New Zealand conditions. There were more than 200 shipments of deer imported from Scotland and England almost a century ago. The New Zealand strain of red deer produce highly sought after large antlers. March and April is the traditional mating period where stags compete for the attention of the hinds resulting in some spectacular head-on clashes using their antlers as weapons. These clashes are often seen as part of Johnny’s Journey.

Wild Red Deer in the Awakari Valley Johnny’s Journey The Awakari Valley Experience Johnny’s Journey 7

Johnny’s Journey The journey into the green depths of the Awakari Valley holds many surprises. Besides the opportunity to mingle with magnificent specimens of red deer, there’s also the chance to be immersed in the fifty-shades-of-green native forest, view an underground limestone cave where the exploring Maoris once made their base for hunting hundreds of years ago, feed the silky black eels in the beautiful clear streams and admire the pancake- like rock formations that are very similar to their famous namesakes forty kilometres down the coast. Feeding the eels And then there’s Johnny. Then it’s a stop at Johnny’s hut to sample his in- Johnny Currie lives in a bush hut on the property, depth knowledge of local bush lore and history. originally built more than fifty years ago. There is no Sometimes this can take a wee while, especially electricity or other modern aids, but a huge wood if fire-toast is on the menu. fire that provides heat and food, as well as the warmest welcome. Next, it is back into the Unimog for a drive amongst the deer to the Maori cave bordering the river. Visitors are encouraged to join Johnny fireside in Along the way, there are stops to see the panoramic sharing a piece of fire cooked toast, even toast their views of the luxuriant native forest stretching into own sandwiches on the embers of the fire just like the adjacent Paparoa National Park and also pause the early explorers to the West Coast did a century and take photos of the pancake rock formations. ago. At the Maori cave, visitors can see where the moa At the same time, Johnny tells visitors about the hunters set up camp for their food gathering and colourful history of the property and his almost ponder over the remaining signs of settlement from religious conversion from clear-felling bushman, to centuries ago. protector of the forest. With the savvy of a champion boxer who has outpointed the nuances of Mother There is also time to take more photos of the wild Nature and the Rain Gods over a lifetime, he paints deer on the way out and then perhaps indulge at a vivid picture of what bush life and living in a tin Jack’s German pizza cafe near the turnoff to the hut can be and calmly and assuredly deals with all Valley. Other attractions can be added to Johnny’s questions. Journey as required, as time allows. When you turn off the main highway onto the gravel The Johnny’s Journey Tour can be tailored to fit road that winds its way into the Awakari Valley, the visitors’ schedules. The best time for viewing the first lesson from Mickey Ryan is about the flora. He deer is around 10.00am so tours normally leave identifies the unique native trees and bushes on Westport at 8.00am with the duration of each show, including the ‘bushman’s friend’, the rangiora around four hours, approximately. plant who’s leaf can be used as writing paper as For self-drive travellers, there is the choice of being Mickey demonstrates, just like the old explorers did. collected and returned to Westport or met near Travelling up the valley through the regrowth native the Charleston turnoff to Awakari Valley to allow an forest, there is a stop on the ridgeline to view the easy departure for all points south along the Great deer on the river flats where they roam freely. Here, Coast Road. Mickey gives a description of the route through the flats where the deer can be viewed close up from the glassed-in Unimogs. Outwest Tours The Awakari Valley Experience Outwest Tours 9

Outwest Tours Outwest Tours is based in Westport and is owned and operated by Mickey and Doreen Ryan assisted by five staff. They have operated specialist visitor tours in the Buller region since 2001 using three, purpose built, all-weather 4WD vehicles. Their most popular tour in recent years has been the visit to the large opencast coal mine at Stockton. In conjunction with mine owner, Solid Energy, the tour shows visitors the operation in action with the huge, Unimogs modern earthmoving equipment as well as the restoration of the land after mining. The stunning coastal views from the Stockton Plateau are worth the trip alone. Outwest also runs tours to the historical and the breath-taking and rugged landscapes of the Mackley River Valley, as well as tailored tours for special interest groups. Their vehicles are certified to NZLTA five star levels. The strength of the Outwest team lies in their knowledge of local history, including natural history. Their West Coast charm comes across in their storytelling and the high vantage points of the Stockton Mine Tours seating in the vehicles ensures no view is missed. All vehicles are interconnected for the informative commentaries with each journey taking a minimum of six travellers and a maximum of 50. Toilet facilities are accessed on route and visitors are advised to bring refreshments such as sandwiches and sturdy footwear. From to Westport The Awakari Valley Experience From Christchurch to Westport 11

nearly 2000 metres high. From here the highway From Christchurch winds down the beautiful, pristine, beech forested to Westport River Valley. A few kilometres down the valley is a DOC camping Westport, the starting point for Johnny’s area and a short walk leads to a bridge across the Journey is an easy four hour drive from “sluice box” a narrow gorge in the Maruia Valley. Christchurch via the scenic Lewis Pass This is also near the location of the highway although it is recommended where the Pacific and Australian crustal tectonic time is also allowed for to savour some plates meet. of the sights along the way. The journey A further four km along SH 7 and to Westport provides many unique treats is reached where a café and service station are for visitors. located. At the road junction turn left and follow SH 7 to , a distance of 44 km which takes about 40 minutes. The road climbs up into the forested The Lewis Pass Highway State mountains of the Victoria Range with mountains Highway 7 up to 1700m high, until the Rahu Saddle (elevation The road north from Christchurch heads up the 676 m) is reached. From here the highway follows Northern Motorway along State Highway 1 (SH 1) to downhill near the crystal-clear and the Lewis Path turnoff and SH 7 intersection, turning through mostly beech forest to Reefton. left at Waipara, just north of Amberley. The SH 7 It is important to check for road snow or ice turnoff is around 40 minutes travelling time from warnings when driving the Lewis Pass in winter. Christchurch. For our overseas visitors, a refreshment stop at Reefton Waikari, 60 minutes into the journey at the Waikari Bakery on the left side of SH7 in Waikari, will provide Reefton is a small town in the Inangahua Valley some classic Kiwi fare. Try the freshly made award and has dairy farming, gold and coal mining and winning pies and cakes, followed by a natural timber industries. There are cafes, hotels, motels, a New Zealand ice cream in a cone, made from our supermarket, service stations and an I Site. internationally famous dairy product, fresh milk. Just before reaching Reefton there is a swingbridge Travel by SH 7 through the Lewis Pass which is a across the Inangahua River and short walk to the completely sealed highway and unique in that there historic powerhouse site. are no power line structures roadside to spoil the The early development of Reefton was based on view. From the Hanmer Springs turn-off, the Lewis gold mining in the 1870’s and over two million Pass route starts, leaving the dry eastern side of the ounces of gold have been won. In the 1880’s, there South Island and climbing up into the Southern Alps were up to 750 Chinese gold miners working in through beech forest and mountain ranges, snow- the Reefton goldfields and some are buried in the capped in winter, with excellent panoramic views. Reefton Cemetery. The distance through the Lewis Pass to Springs Many of the Chinese worked in the Boatmans area. Junction is 85 km and takes about one hour and 15 The Reefton I Site/ Visitor Centre on the main street mins. has good information on local attractions, heritage When approaching the Lewis Pass summit, it is well sites, the historic gold mines, including the Chinese worth stopping and visiting the alpine tarn (small miners, as well as the plants and birds of the district. lake) a few minutes’ walk from the highway. About Leaving Reefton, turn right and travel past the one km further along the route, the summit of the Reefton Cemetery on SH 69 northwards along the Lewis Pass at an elevation of 863 metres above sea Inangahua Valley to Inangahua Junction, a distance level, is reached, with surrounding mountains up to of 33km, around 25 minutes travel time. The Awakari Valley Experience From Christchurch to Westport 12

Lewis Pass

Lower Westport has excellent amenities for visitors including a range of cafes, restaurants including the At Inangahua Junction join State Highway 6 and Golden Horse Chinese restaurant, hotels, motels, travel west to Westport. This section is 46 km long supermarkets, service stations, a wide variety and allow around 40 mins travel time without stops. of shops and a modern sports complex with a After about 5km of farmland the road enters the modern indoor heated swimming pool. There is an gorge just west of Berlins Café. For the next 20 km, information bureau, an ISite and adjacent museum the cuts through the near the Clocktower building on Palmerston Street, forming a spectacular gorge amongst the steep cliffs the main street. and lush green rainforest. At Hawks Crag, there is a parking area to view where Westport Attractions the road is cut into a riverside cliff. On the north side The nearby area is a must for visitors. of the gorge on the far side of the Buller River, there Drive south out of Westport and at the western is the Westport to Christchurch railway. end of the Buller River bridge, turn right onto State From Hawk’s Crag, the road continues through Highway 67A to . the Lower Buller Gorge then farmland, 26 kms to The seaside suburb of Carters Beach is located Westport, crossing the Buller River bridge into the only five minutes’ drive from Westport. It has a main street. long sandy beach with great views towards Cape Foulwind. A large camping ground, motels, café, Westport and an 18-hole championship golf course are located here. Westport is a heartland New Zealand town built to service the region’s gold mining and later, coal, From Carters Beach the road runs for about nine timber and cement industries. Located on the kms to the prominent headland of Cape Foulwind. north bank of the Buller River beside the Tasman Here there are superb views of the coastal cliffs Sea, Westport was founded on gold but from 1885 and offshore islets (“The Steeples”). The hard coal mining has been the main industry. Also of granite rock was quarried in the late 19th century economic significance are dairy farming, tourism for Westport Harbour. There is a lighthouse on and fishing. the highest point and a walkway along the cliffs to The Awakari Valley Experience From Christchurch to Westport 13

Tauranga Bay, four kms and about one hour 15 mins one way. At Cape Foulwind, there are motels and a tavern/café. Leaving Cape Foulwind turn right near the tavern and continue for 4 km until the attractive Tauranga Bay is reached. The bay is well-used by surfers and there is an award-winning restaurant overlooking the area. At the northern end of Tauranga Bay is a car park from where a short walkway leads to a viewing platform above a seal colony. The colony is popular amongst wildlife photographers as are the stunning sunsets on the western horizon.

From Tauranga Bay, the road back to Westport is Westport about a 20 min drive. The Great Coast Road is one of the Top 10 Coastal Drives in the world according to Lonely Planet and from Westport, as SH 6, it leads to the pioneer gold mining town of Charleston. Along the way, you can visit an impressive John Deere Tractor Museum and the Mitchells Gold Mine, about 24 kms along SH 6 from Westport. Charleston was the site of a major gold rush in the 1860’s. There were around 5,000 miners and over 50 hotels in those booming gold rush days long ago. Charleston is very different today and has a motel, camping ground and a café. Norwest Adventures run caving trips in the limestone area of the Nile Valley and also have a rainforest train ride Cape Foulwind in the valley. From the main highway, a road leads down to Constant Bay from where there is a short walk to view the spectacular coastal cliffs.

Punakaiki From Charleston, continue along SH 6, the Great Coast Road, for 31 kms to the famous pancake rocks and blowholes at . The road heads inland for about 10 kms before reaching the coast north of Fox River. For the next 20 minutes’ drive to Punakaiki there is outstanding scenery and in some locations like the Fox River, the wild beaches can be easily accessed.

Tauranga Bay The Awakari Valley Experience From Christchurch to Westport 14

Westport

6

6 69

Punakaiki

Reefton

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Lewis Pass

From 7 Christchurch to Westport

Waipara

1

Christchurch The Awakari Valley Experience From Christchurch to Westport 15

A Suggested Self Drive Itinerary: to on the Great Coast Road, SH 6, passing Christchurch to Punakaiki through on route. Hokitika is the jade capital of New Zealand. Day One 9.00am History of the Reefton Chinese Community Depart Christchurch and head north towards the Lewis Pass Highway on SH 7. Refreshment stop at Men from Southern China, mostly from Guandong Waikari and a break at the alpine tarn at the summit Province in the Pearl River Delta area, were sent of the Lewis Pass. overseas to win gold and then return home as rich men. In 1865, the Otago Provincial Government 12.30pm invited the first wave of Chinese miners from the Arrive in Reefton for lunch at one of the main street Australian fields in Victoria in a move to replace the cafes and visit the I-Site for a briefing on the area’s thousands on miners who had rushed to the West local history. Visit the Chinese section of the Reefton Coast in 1864. Cemetery. By 1867, small groups of Chinese moved to 2.30pm the West Coast and as well as miners, included gardeners and storekeepers. They stuck together Depart Reefton for Westport arriving around and tolerated the racial prejudice against them, 3.30pm. Stop at Hawks Crag for a photo. Settle in to mostly aimed at their customs and the unwelcome pre-booked accommodation in Westport and take mining competition they represented. a drive to Cape Foulwind to view the seal colony, or maybe visit the Coaltown Museum, perhaps By 1868, some had moved to the Grey Valley and shopping for local crafts or even a wild jet boat ride Reefton and had done very well. A typical Chinese on the Buller River with Buller Adventure Tours. miner wanted to win $100 to $200 worth of gold and head home. Many did. A new wave of Chinese 5.30pm immigrants arrived in the area in the early 1880s. It Perhaps a swim for the family at the local pool, is believed that a Reefton Chinese gardener, Charles shopping for fresh supplies if required or sample the Fook, reported his good fortune to home so was local beer at the Denniston Dog. partly responsible. 7.00pm: dinner at a local restaurant, maybe try the The majority of this influx settled in Reefton fresh local fish or specialist Chinese restaurant. boosting their population from 200 to 800, around 20% of the district’s population at the time. They Day Two were reportedly given a warm welcome to Reefton 8.00aM led by local storekeepers, Cum Yen and Ye Yak. Depart Westport with Outwest Tours on Johnny’s The Chinese miners mostly settled at , Journey to see the herd of wild red deer in the north of Reefton and to the south east at Merrijigs. Awakari Valley. Leave the valley around 12.30pm By 1881, Reefton’s main street boasted six Chinese and head to Jack’s for refreshments, maybe a visit stores supplying both Chinese and European to the Mitchells Gully Goldmine. If time allows, ask customers. Mickey to show you the tractor museum. Their remaining physical presence in Reefton is a 2.00pm dedicated Chinese section in the Reefton Cemetery astride the main highway north, plus small outcrops Depart Charleston for Punakaiki, about 30 minutes’ of their distinctive workings. Not all achieved their drive and then head south to possibly overnight in dream of making a fortune and heading back home. Hokitika, a 90 minute drive, 85 kms, from Punakaiki Endorsements The Awakari Valley Experience Endorsements 17

“We shoot personality programmes for the lifestyle channels on Sky Television in New Zealand. When I heard about the Certainly one Johnny’s Journey trip I doubted if we would be able to fill a complete half hour of“ the best programme. Once we went up the Awakari Valley ever tours I and met Johnny Currie, the problem reversed, too much material. have done in Johnny is such a terrific storyteller and the images of the wild deer roaming New Zealand free are going to be a popular with our viewers. It has to be the best trip or overseas. to see wildlife in their own habitat in New Zealand. As a result of our recent visit, I will be coming back to Westport to do some more filming in three months’ time. I am sure the Awakari Valley will be a huge “We went on Johnny’s Journey led by hit with overseas visitors once they hear Mickey, which is a trip to a large, 1,800 acre bush property and met the owner,” about it.” Johnny. Bill Hohepa He has a large herd of wild deer which NZ TV personality are amazing to see plus there is the moa hunters’ cave, limestone rocks, rare plant life, all this in an amazing valley with a beautiful river. To sit and hear Johnny’s stories in his hut is like going back 150 years in time. “I came to New Zealand on a Tourism He genuinely loves sharing his New Zealand famil and visited the knowledge. At the end of the tour, I Glaciers in South Westland. The West shook Johnny’s hand and said that I was Coast is so beautiful, I chose to stay so privileged to have the opportunity to longer in my own time and visit the see the valley. unexplored parts of the region. Would I recommend the tour? Yes, a This led me to Johnny’s Journey. I thousand times and if you do nothing was taken aback by the freshness and else on the West Coast, make sure you professionalism of the trip and found it do Johnny’s Journey. Certainly one of great value for money. the best ever tours I have done in New The wonderful native bush and the Zealand or overseas.” roaming deer is something I will never forget and I will be putting this on the

Craig Rogers itineraries of the Australians I organise deer farmer, Taupo to visit New Zealand. I doubt if there is anything as natural and interesting for a wild animal experience like this anywhere in the world.”

Helen Rolten Tourism operator, Melbourne The Awakari Valley Experience NZTA ORS Rating and Update 18 The Awakari Valley Experience NZTA ORS Rating and Update 19 P 0800 OUTWEST E [email protected] www.outwest.co.nz