EARLY SPRING NEWS issue 76 september 2011

7.74 tonnes per hectare, Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard down by 11%; Cabernet 2009 Franc produced 6.80 tonnes per hectare, down by 26%. and Merlot We weren’t surprised when Vintage Notes a check of bunch weights In the Moss Wood revealed these were down viticultural history, there has across the 3 varieties. never been a run of 4 great Grapevines are resilient years, such as we have had against many things but hail from 2008 to 2011. The level is not one of them. of quality has provided an embarrassment of riches, but These cooler conditions interestingly enough, while were also reflected in later all are of a high standard, each than average flowering dates; one has its own individual although across the 3 varieties style. Of the foursome, the the delay was only small, with one to capture the purist’s Merlot the latest at 6 days. attention is the 2009. As with all things viticultural, As with all of them, Mother the Summer conditions, Nature provided just about everything a non-irrigated described above, produced vineyard could need. differing ripening results Sufficient rainfall during the across the varieties. Cabernet Spring and Autumn to ensure Sauvignon was picked on at least moderate growth and 29th March, which is one yield, and plenty of warm day earlier than average and but not hot days, to provide it had taken 117 days to go consistent ripening. from flowering to harvest, It must be said the Spring 3 days faster than average. had its ups and downs with The median harvest date for some bouts of heavy rain Merlot was 28th March but and occasional hail. This is this was 10 days later than reflected in the yields, which were lower than expected. average and the period Cabernet Sauvignon cropped from flowering to harvest at 6.04 tonnes per hectare, was 121 days, 4 days longer down by 22%; Merlot yielded than average. moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 2

Cabernet Franc was picked Production Notes 4 days earlier than average, Median Harvest Dates: on 10th March and its period Cabernet Sauvignon - from flowering to harvest 29th March, 2009 was 111 days, one week faster than usual. For Cabernet Merlot - Sauvignon and Cabernet 28th March, 2009 Franc, the consistent warmth Cabernet Franc - of the summer and small 10th March, 2009 crop allowed them catch up Harvest Ripeness: but Merlot being Merlot; it Cabernet Sauvignon – did the opposite and slowed 13.4° Baume during ripening. Having Merlot – been the slowest to flower, it 13.1° Baume then didn’t make up any time over the Summer. Perhaps its Cabernet Franc – 13.2° Baume relatively larger crop was a factor. As with all our wines, the fruit was hand-picked. It Despite these nuances of the was then delivered to the season, all varieties reached winery and destemmed into full ripeness for sugar, flavours small, open, stainless steel and tannins. The consistent fermenters. Fermentations At this stage, a series of tasting Merlot with egg whites. The warmth but with an absence were initiated using pure yeast trials were done to decide wines were then fined, filtered of extreme heat spikes, meant cultures and then monitored on the best blend for the and finally bottled on 1st July, and maintained at a maximum they all made steady progress two “finished” wines. The 2011. and we had time to watch and temperature of 28°C. All Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot batches were hand plunged Moss Wood wait and, hopefully, take each combination looked best with up to four times per day and Ribbon Vale Vineyard one at optimum maturity. 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, was tasted daily to confirm 33% Merlot and 8% Cabernet 2009 Cabernet For completeness sake, the tannin balance. The timing Franc. The Merlot looked Sauvignon Merlot picking ripeness of Cabernet of pressing followed our usual best with 95% Merlot and 5% Sauvignon was 13.4° Baume, Tasting Notes policy of leaving each batch Cabernet Franc. These two very slightly behind its on skins until the best balance blends were prepared and the Colour and condition: deep average of 13.6. Merlot came had been achieved. With wines were racked to barrel. brick red, in bright condition Cabernet Sauvignon this was in at exactly average, at 13.2° All the barrels were French Nose: Complex. It combines 20 days, for Merlot, 14 days Baume and Cabernet Franc oak and for the Cabernet primary fruits of red currant, and for Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Merlot, 38% were finished at 12.6° Baume, quite briar and toffee apple with a 11 days. new and for the Merlot, 35% a bit earlier than its average of background of cedar, leather were new. 13.5. It can be seen from this Once pressed, each wine and earth. last figure and the discussion was allowed to settle for a In May 2011 both blends week and was then racked Palate: There are initial above, about time elapsed were racked from barrel to generous, red fruit flavours into barrel. After malolactic be prepared for bottling. In from flowering to harvest, fermentation took place the all, they had spent 25 months across the front and mid there was something about wines were racked backed to in oak. Fining trials were palate; cedar, charry and spicy 2009 that promoted good stainless steel tanks, adjusted carried out and tasted and notes on the finish; tannins early flavours in the for acidity then returned to it was decided to fine the are firm but balanced and Cabernet Franc compared barrel, where they stayed until Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot leave the wine with a long to other years. October 2009. with skim milk and the smooth finish. moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 3

Cellaring: this is a wine sibling, there are strong At the same time, consistent Glenmore Cabernet with appealing young fruit similarities with the 2001 and warmth allowed full ripeness Sauvignon – flavours and is relatively once again, with this vintage of sugar, flavour and tannin, 8th April, 2010; 13.4° Baume enjoyable now. However, it as an example, we would allowing us to make wines Glenmore – has the fruit depth and tannin recommend cellaring for at with strong fruit 12th April, 2010; 13.2° structure to age successfully least 10 years. characters and inherent Baume and compares very favourably, balance. We have very high Moss Wood in terms of style, with 2001 hopes for quality. Bantry Bay Petit Verdot – 2010 Amy’s vintage which at 10 years of 13th April, 2010; 13.8° Baume Production Notes Vintage Notes age is still very youthful and Montgomery Brothers Petit only just beginning to show Median Harvest Dates and Discussion of vintage quality Verdot – some bottle bouquet. On this Ripeness: for 2010 presents something 16th April, 2010; 12.3° basis, we would recommend of a dilemma. Over the years, Montgomery Brothers – Baume cellaring the 2009 for at least it has become something of 10th March, 2010; 13° Baume 10 years but suggest that it The Glenmore and a wine industry marketing Glenmore Malbec – will need to be at least 15 Montgomery Brothers joke that every vintage is a 10th March, 2010; 13.7° years old before it will show vineyards were both great vintage. At Moss Wood Baume full bottle development. handpicked. we have tried to develop a Glenmore Merlot – Moss Wood reputation for being as honest However, we decided on 22nd March, 2010; 12.6° Ribbon Vale Vineyard and objective as possible about a change of plan with the Baume 2009 Merlot the quality of all the vintages Bantry Bay Petit Verdot. This vineyard supplies to a Tasting Notes and how this has influenced Montgomery Brothers Cabernet wine styles. This means, of Sauvignon - number of wineries and the Colour and condition: deep course, we hope it can be 28th March, 2010; 13.4° only company to hand harvest brick red, in bright condition taken at face value when, once Baume there is Moss Wood. Nose: the initial impression is again, we sing the praises of a vibrant nose, with lifted red yet another very high quality and dark fruits of mulberry, vintage. red currant and blackberry, Looking back over our as well as a suggestion of history, we believe 2010 shares aromatic spices. There some commonality with 1991 are complex notes in the and could be the best overall background of leather and season that Margaret River earth. has had, with above average Palate: this is full bodied, crops and consistent and even with generous and lively dark warmth ripen them. We fruit flavours to the front and had regular, indeed often then a good finish combining heavy, rain during Spring toasty oak, tar, cedar and which fortunately didn’t leather. Tannins are firm interrupt flowering and but do not interfere with the allowed the vines to set and texture, so the wine has a then successfully carry the long, smooth finish. large crops. The exception Cellaring: as with the was Merlot, whose flowering Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, coincided with some this wine exhibits the significant rain events and enjoyable fruit flavours of around the region, its crops the 2009 vintage and is quite were affected to some degree. drinkable now. However, However, on balance, it was a also in common with its bountiful harvest. moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 4

We intended to continue this Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit smooth, even with a firm the oportunity to taste until a large rain-bearing Verdot, 12% Malbec and 5% tannin structure. some outstanding wines and weather pattern caused a re- Merlot. compare them to their Moss Cellaring: this wine is made think. We didn’t have enough Wood equivalent vintages, Since our aim with this wine with the intention of capturing pickers to get the fruit in both young and old. There is to preserve the primary the best of its youthful fruit ahead of the rain so decided were four brackets; Semillon, fruit characters, it spends only characters so that it provides to use the situation to trial , slightly longer than one year in attractive early drinking. machine harvesting. The and Cabernet Sauvignon. By barrel. The 2010 was racked Hence, we recommend it for machine picked in 2 hours virtue of the rarity or these and blended on 2nd July, 2011, early drinking. However, the what would have taken our wine it was quite a small fining trials were carried out fruit depth and composition team 12 and it picked through tasting and we thought it and it was decided to treat the are such that it will develop the night, ahead of the rain, might be interesting to share wine with egg whites. Once additional complexity and so the fruit arrived without the tasting proceedings with this was done, the wine was softness over the next 5 years. dilution. This part of the sterile filtered and bottled on our mailing list customers. experiment was a success 18th July, 2011. Firstly, we discussed the but unfortunately, we had to Hyatt Semillon wines and of spend a large amount of time Tasting Notes Regency course, from our point of picking out material other Colour and condition: deep view, that required us to than grape, because there were brick red, in bright condition Perth, refer to the inspiration of a huge number of leaf stems Nose: the wine immediately the Hunter Valley wines for and other woody parts of the displays lifted scents of Wine Week the Moss Wood wine style. vine in the bins. We won’t be mulberry, blueberry, dark Semillon from the Hunter repeating the experiment for jubes, violets, menthol and Moss Wood Valley is one of Australia’s a while. cedar. It really stands out in Inspirations tasting few unique wines styles. The Once at the winery the the glass. In the background On Saturday 20 August region’s leading producers, fruit was destemmed into a there are leather and earthy 2011, we had the privilge of Brokenwood, Drayton’s, combination of small, open notes. conducting a tasting of rare Lindeman’s, Mangan, fermenters and large, static Palate: here the impression and special wines at the Hyatt McWilliams, Tulloch, Tyrell’s, fermenters. In the former, is of plump, soft dark fruit Regency, Perth. In seeking to to name but a few, can lay extraction was by hand flavours – black currant, dark show some of the inspirations claim to making some of this plunging 4 times per day and jubes and mulberry. There for Moss Wood wine styles we country’s best and longest in the latter, each batch was is full body and texture is very cheekily allowed ourselves lived white wines. pumped over 3 times per day.

The skin contact time was managed according to taste and pressing was done when each batch had the best tannin balance. The various different batches spent between 10 and 20 days on skins.

After pressing, each batch was allowed to settle in stainless steel tank before being racked off gross lees and undergoing malolactic fermentation. After this was completed, all the various batches were blended and the final blend was returned to barrel. The final blend consisted of 50% moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 5

It’s probably no surprise that However, with aging, there into classic Semillon. The tastings and visits gradually we have tried to build the is convergence. Both styles colours were deep gold and led us to conclude that of best of the Hunter Valley develop interesting and the aromas a rich combination the three key areas, Chablis, wines into our Semillon complex bouquets with toasty, of citrus, butter and toast. On Meursault and Puligny, the style. Although we have buttery, nutty and caramel the palate, there was crisp Moss Wood Chardonnay experimented with barrel characters coming to the fore acid in both but they were had most in common with aging and lees stirring, our after about 10 years cellaring. each beginning to round out the latter. Our wines do technique has copied the They also share the interesting and show nice sweetness. not have the flintiness or Hunter, by using clean, pure trait of “adolescence”, where The Tyrell’s, in particular, minerality of the former. yeast fermentations and early in the middle years, say age 3 promised at least another 5 In essence, the technique of bottling to retain pristine to 7, the wines can be years cellaring – a truly production for high quality fruit aromas. subdued on the nose, having great wine. Chardonnay is careful lost some of their primary fermentation and extended Simplicity of technique may The next bracket was fruit intensity but not having aging in barrels, then bottling give some insight into our Chardonnay and the yet reached the age where the when the wine has achieved enthusiasm for this variety. wines from which we mature notes develop. the best balance of fruit aroma If quality was measurable, drew inspiration. Moss and complexity. The complex it would be easy to see that Once they’ve reached Wood established its first maturity, the Hunter Valley Chardonnay vineyard in notes are gained through a “pound for pound”, Semillon wines have proven themselves 1976, at a time when Australia variety of techniques - wild punches way above its capable of cellaring beyond commenced its love affair yeast fermentation; types and weight. It grows well in the 20 years. When our first with the variety. Considering amount of new oak; contact vineyard, produces good Semillons were released, other noble French varieties with lees; encouraging crops and is processed quickly we hoped they would like Cabernet Sauvignon and malolactic fermentation and and easily in the winery. offer the same but our Shiraz had been in production so on. The extent to which Its more highly fancied recommendations were always for so long, the relatively these are used and the impact siblings require all sorts of conservative, suggesting late arrival of Chardonnay they have varies enormously mollycoddling but in the end, cellaring for up to 10 years. is surprising. It meant our between producers. as an old wine, Semillon can Having been producing the now famous names were only The primary fruit aromas easily match them. style since 1977, we can now just emerging and apart from of Chardonnay change with The two regional styles proudly claim that 20 years is Tyrell’s, whose Vat 49 was different ripeness. When diverge slightly as young achievable and encourage all the nation’s forerunner in picked early, there is a wines because for the Hunter, who have room in their cellars barrel fermented Chardonnay, predominance of limes and this means bright citrus fruit to keep some Semillon for the names like Petaluma, Mount grapefruit. As harvest gets characters, especially lemon long term. Mary, , later, they progress through Cullen and were all and lime, with background To illustrate this we tasted nectarine, pear and peach to still establishing themselves. notes of lanolin and a very through the Moss Wood tropical notes like guava and Hence, our inspirations crisp palate structure, with 2005 Semillon, the Tyrell’s passion fruit. high acid and low alcohol, were largely from overseas 2005 Vat 1 Semillon, the In Puligny, the wines and while some interesting generally around 11% Moss Wood 1997 Semillon, tend to display some of wines were being made in (v/v). On the other hand, and the Tyrell’s 1997 Vat the citrus notes but have a California, the very best in Margaret River, acidity 1Semillon all showed well predominance of white-flesh came from Burgundy. This tends to be slightly higher, and all in attendance agreed stone fruit characters, often is where we turned our meaning the harvest ripeness that each wine was a great with lifted perfumes of honey attention. also tends to be higher example of the style. The suckle, blossoms and orange because winemakers want young wines were still very The Cote D’Or produces a zest. Then, depending on more alcohol and body to fresh, with lots of crisp citrus huge range of styles and it’s the technique used by the improve balance of acidity on flavour, although there was not possible to generalize producer, complexity will the palate. This means the the expected divergence in about villages, vineyards and appear in the background as citrus fruit notes are joined style between the regions. producers. This diversity a combination of mushroom, by Semillon’s riper characters, On the other hand, both is one of the region’s great roast nut, cheese, caramel, like fig and honey. older wines had developed attractions. However, our toast etc. moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 6

This is then presented on although the toasty and buttery and techniques of production. sensitivity means they a palate where, almost notes were just beginning to As a result, if not managed are even greater than for invariably, the wines are show. Both of them are still correctly, it can be prone to Chardonnay. Perhaps Moss medium to full body, with very much in their infancy and major swings in quality. This Wood has more in common a firm structure combining have at least another 5 years has led English wine critics, in with the wines of the south high, but not intrusive acid, of cellaring to show their full particular, to claim that one of the Cote de Beaune, like and some astringency. The bottle bouquet. should choose Burgundy (read Pommard or Volnay but effect is one where the bright Pinot Noir) as one’s mistress the influences spread right We then went on to Pinot fruit notes and complexity but choose Bordeaux (read across the region. Despite Noir. It is fascinating to reflect combine to give mouth-filling Cabernet Sauvignon) as all its different iterations, it is on how the popularity of flavour and length, without one’s wife. possible to indentify some key Pinot Noir wines has changed the heaviness or oiliness traits we see as being crucial over the last 40 years. The So, despite all this, we are which can be a problem in full in good Pinot Noir. variety is now very much in fortunate that Bill and Sandra flavoured white wines. the mainstream but when Moss Pannell had the imagination As the grapes ripen, a Although Chardonnays made Wood Pinot Noir was planted and enthusiasm to include Pinot very significant range of in this way are already very in 1973; its appeal was limited Noir in the vineyard at Moss aromas and flavours reveal complex, they will improve to those few who were lucky Wood and were prepared to themselves. Early on, there with cellaring. The bottle enough to have been schooled commit the time and effort to are soft, slightly indistinct bouquet enhances the toasty, in the mysteries of Burgundy. learning about the variety and red fruits accompanied by caramel and nutty notes and It also meant that production how to produce it. green herbs like coriander on the palate, the astringency of the wine was limited to a which are then replaced by Pinot Noir continues to and acidity soften and the dedicated group of producers, dried herbs, like cumin. The provoke strong opinions. Even bottle-developed flavours who treated it as something of red fruits gradually become in the current market, where add length, giving a richer, a holy grail. more distinct, revealing the spread of consumers is sweeter mouth feel. In both strawberry-type notes and the As a wine style, it is far way beyond the traditional Margaret River Chardonnay spices become more scented removed from the classic Burgundy “freaks”, the and White Burgundy, this and smoky, almost barbeque- big Aussie red. In the early naysayers still abound. Except takes around 10 years to like. As ripening continues, days, the grape growing these days, the question is evolve and the wines continue the fruits become darker, and winemaking techniques now, “Why do they bother to improve at least until 20 more cherry and plum, and required to produce it, were in Margaret River?” With years of age. other complexities emerge. viewed with suspicion and so much good Pinot Noir The wines tasted were Moss These can be ethereal, like those who practiced the dark being made in Pemberton, Wood 2009 Chardonnay, rose petals, or earthy, like arts were considered fanatical or the Adelaide Hills, or Domaine Leflaive 2008 Les mushrooms, soil and leather. and perhaps, deranged. All too southern Victoria and east Folatieres, Moss Wood 2001 often, the question would be coast Tasmania, perhaps This array of smells replays Chardonnay and Domaine asked, “Why do they bother?” there’s some logic to the as flavours across the palate, Leflaive 2001 Les Folatieres. question. However, having making it long and complex. It was very interesting how The thing is they bothered looked closely at our Margaret At the same time, there is no similar these wines were to because, to a person, the River wine, we concluded heaviness to the structure, each other and gratifying that fanatics had experienced the it is worthy of comparison with astringency that is we could see a definite stylistic classic Pinot Noir moment, with these, and other regions, rarely aggressive and does not link. The expected stone when suddenly the magic and over the years, we have intrude on the smooth texture fruit characters were evident revealed itself and they were sought to improve it against the and rounded mouth feel. in both the young wines, destined to be forever under benchmark of Red Burgundy. with the Leflaive showing its spell. Unfortunately, this Inherent complexity and a distinct honey note in the brings with it complications Once again, it’s not possible to balance in young Pinot Noirs background, while the Moss because the variety is perhaps generalize about the red wine makes them very attractive Wood showed off its roast the most sensitive of all and style of this region because the to drink early and many can nuts. The older pair was still responds quickly and often variations between villages, be written off as too soft to very youthful, with mostly profoundly, to the nuances of vineyards and producers are benefit from aging. However, primary fruit in evidence, the environment, the season myriad. In fact, the variety’s the variety develops a classic moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 7

bottle bouquet which builds vintages were released in the tastings and on retail shelves. The list goes on. the leather and earth notes early to mid 1970’s, the results The similarity of the labels Although we are proud of our and further integrates the were encouraging, with the produced often less than individuality, there are still astringency. Generally, wines showing very good favourable comments and so some features in the Medoc the wines take around 10 characters. History has since the Moss Wood design was wines, loosely referred to years to show the benefit of shown Dr. Gladstones was altered to make sure it was as the “Claret” characters, cellaring, becoming gradually right. seen as individual in its own we want to retain in ours. more complex with each right and not a copy. The new producers sought Cabernet Sauvignon, just as passing year, achieving full styles against which they In the early days, the great we have seen with the other complexity between 15 and 20 could judge themselves and vintages like 1959, 1961, varieties, changes its aromas years old. since Bordeaux was (and 1966, 1975 and 1976 were as the grapes ripen. Initially In this bracket were the remains) the pre-eminent well known but remained it shows general red berry Moss Wood 2008 Pinot Cabernet Sauvignon region rare treats for Margaret River notes, with a very distinct Noir, Comte Armand 2008 in the world, the wines from winemakers. However, herbaeceousness, similar Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, the Medoc, in particular, Bordeaux went through to cut grass, capsicum or Moss Wood 2001 Pinot Noir were continually used as something of a renaissance eucalypt. The aromas then and Comte George de Vogue a benchmark. Australian from 1978 onwards and the progress through red and then 2000 Chambolle Musigny inspiration, if slightly less wines produced over the next dark fruits like red currant, Premier Cru. We did see significant, came primarily 10 vintages were more widely mulberry and, when very ripe, some commonality in the from Coonawarra, where the available and were closely plum. The perfumed notes style between Moss Wood and wines from Wynn’s, Mildara, examined, especially 1982, change to violets, cedar and the Clos des Epeneaux. Both Brands and Redman were 1983 and 1985. tar, the Claret characters and showed dark berry fruit notes highly regarded. There were at their best, the Bordeaux Gradually the relationship, if and earthy complexity, with also new producers emerging wines show just about the we can call it that began to the tannin structure slightly there, like Bowen Estate. perfect combination of these. firmer in the Pommard. The Finally, the other region that wane slightly – the ardour had older pair was also similar in appeared to be developing in cooled. With hindsight this The cellaring potential of style, although the Chambolle parallel with Margaret River seems obvious but we finally Bordeaux wine is legendary. Musigny showed its class was the Yarra Valley, where came to understand that The great Chateaux have with lifted earthy and spicy producers like Fergusons, Bordeaux produced Bordeaux proven themselves capable fruit notes. St. Hubert’s and the great wine and consumers wanted of making vintages that will Mount Mary made wines that Margaret River wine from keep for decades, so whether Finally we discussed our captured people’s attention. us. It was not that we thought these wines should be aged inspirations for Cabernet any less of the Bordeaux is beyond doubt. However, Sauvignon wines at Moss If Medoc wines were the growers but we realized the it’s worth examining how Wood. When Dr. John benchmark, one of the importance of capturing and the wines change and Gladstones first proposed favourites was the famous highlighting the positive what is appropriate as a Margaret River as a second growth from Paulliac, things that Cabernet minimum cellaring time, viticultural region, it was on Chateau Pichon Longueville Sauvignon produced in our so the wines can be enjoyed the basis that its maritime Comtesse de Lalande. From vineyard. with a reasonable amount of climate shared similarities its simple classical label, to its bottle-derived improvement. with Bordeaux and was generous (for a Medoc) wine This led to small but After all, very few of us are therefore likely to be suitable style, it gave insight into not important changes, including drinking our grandparents’ for producing Cabernet only how Cabernet Sauvignon the introduction of the cellars. Instead, most are Sauvignon-based wines. This could be made but also how different blending varieties to buying wine now, with the prompted the early pioneers it could be sold. The design complement the backbone of hope we can retain a little of it into action and soon enough inspiration eventually caused Cabernet Sauvignon; a clearer for mature drinking. people like Tom Cullity, problems because after 30 understanding of the ripening Bill and Sandra Pannell and years, Moss Wood was well and flavour development; As a general rule, Cabernet Kevin and Di Cullen had enough known overseas to evolution of winemaking Sauvignon-based wines take Cabernet Sauvignon vines in be appearing regularly with technique to improve fruit at least 10 years to reveal the ground. When the first Pichon Lalande in wine depth and tannin balance. their bottle bouquet, after moss wood newsletter - early spring news - september 2011 page 8

which steady improvement de Lalande 2007, Moss Wood year and discusses them at can be expected for a further 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon, 3AW 693 length for his radio audience, decade. Beyond 20 years the Chateau Pichon Longueville, News Talk in a style all his own. He accompanying changes are Comtesse de Lalande 1996. has also been known to call few, other than the gradual Both the young wines were 2010 Wine winemakers at ungodly hours on a Sunday morning, to deterioration of bottles with typical of their vintage and poor corks. In these bottles, debate wine issues and hold region. Moss Wood showed of the Year the colour will “brown” them to account on points the fruit concentration and much faster and the fruit Awards of quality and style, as well tannin ripeness, so typical of aromas are replaced by higher Wine commentary has as pay them much respected 2008 in Margaret River. The something of a proud volatility on both the nose and compliments. Pichon Lalande had similar tradition, in that those who palate. Under sound corks, Luckily for us, we now have dark fruits but with more write or speak on the subject the beneficial changes are an are, without exception, a proudly on display at Moss increase in the cedar, tar and of Paulliac’s complex earth ruggedly individual bunch Wood, two prized awards, leather notes, making the and leather notes. The older and the breadth of opinion the 3AW 2010 Red Wine wines had both developed both the nose and the palate on wine and wine style is of the Year and the 3AW some bottle bouquet, so there more complex. At the same probably as diverse as any Best Cabernet Sauvignon of time, softening of the tannins were delicious tarry and waxy artistic pursuit. To digress the Year, both given for the reduces the astringency, notes appearing. However, for a brief moment, there are Moss Wood 2007 Cabernet giving the wine a much each wine still retained times, of course, when we Sauvignon. These were hand sweeter, rounder mouth feel. clear and strong primary don’t necessarily agree with delivered by Kim on his critical comment but it’s one recent visit to Wilyabrup for The Cabernet wines we fruit aromas and flavours, of the great things about the Cullen’s 40th birthday tasted were Moss Wood 2008 suggesting they still have our business that everyone’s celebrations. For which Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau many years to go before opinion is valid. No matter they held an excellent party Pichon Longueville, Comtesse full maturity. what other people may say, that we were lucky enough all tastes are individual and to attended and a weekend people like what they like. involving, amongst other People outside Melbourne things, a tastings of historic may not be aware of long and outstanding Cullen time wine enthusiast and wines, which was by all commentator, Kim West, who accounts also outstanding. presents for radio station 3AW Our congratulations go to the on Saturday afternoons. The Cullen’s on their forty great format is wide ranging and years and many thanks to Kim includes discussion about new for our awards! releases, wine areas, talkback and so on. Kim tastes a Best regards, MOSS WOOD VINEYARDS huge number of wines each Clare and Keith Mugford N

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