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2 3 RICHARD SMITH www.OceanRealmImages.com

he sprawling shape of Sulawesi, subsequently evolved in isolation into a Bunaken than Lembeh. Lembeh is the formerly Celebes, resembles a multitude of unique species, in a similar undoubted muck diving capital of the squashed spider, stretching yoga manner to those of the Galapagos islands. world where gaudy, monstrous and instructor or windblown orchid, Despite its relatively small size the island amazingly well camouflaged creatures depending on your perspective. Its accommodates four unique species of abound. Black volcanic sand, for some Tdiving opportunities are equally diverse: in macaque monkeys, the Babirusa (an reason, attracts these creatures but it is the the north are the black sandy slopes of the unusual tusked pig-deer), nearly 90 combination of the black sand and nutrient Lembeh Strait brimming with the weirdest endemic bird species and the tarsier, a rich water that flows through the strait that critters in the shallow seas, central forbear of modern monkeys and the likes make it so bountiful. Sulawesi’s Togian islands boast a coral of which were the inspiration for Yoda and Eden with some of the best hard corals in the cuddly Mogwai of Gremlins ! Lembeh really is unrivalled as the best Indonesia and Wakatobi in the southeast place to find the rare critters which have hosts vibrant reefs covered in dense and The island’s unusual history also helps been eluding you your whole dive career: diverse soft coral, sponges and gorgonian explain some of the diversity it has below Blue ringed, mimic and wunderpus corals. Sulawesi has some of the best the waves. The northern critter-packed octopus, hairy and clown frogfish, ribbon diving in Asia – if not the world. black sands originate from volcanic eels, stargazers, harlequin shrimp, Ambon activity, the coral abundance of the Togian scorpionfish, flamboyant cuttlefish and Indonesia is an extremely geologically islands is due to the area’s warm clear even the very rare and beautiful weedy active place and has been shifted, buffeted waters and in the remote southeast nutrient- and paddle flap scorpionfish (Rhinopias to and moulded by millions of years of rich waters nourish colourful soft corals. A their mates!). Thanks to the eagle-eyed tectonic plate activity. Sulawesi’s unusual voyage from north to south on this guides this wish list of creatures really is 1 The Walea soft coral pygmy shape is a direct result of this activity and fascinating island, whilst only 800 km, attainable in five days diving. Granted, Hippocampus waleananus is formed around three million years ago offers a huge diversity of diving you’ll see garbage and trash on your known only from the reefs around when the north and south peninsulas broke Walea Resort in the Togian Islands opportunities for every taste. dives, and the large port Bitung midway 2 A coral ridge and abundant sessile off Borneo and collided with today’s down the strait doesn’t help with this, but invertebrates in the Wakatobi area eastern and southeastern peninsulas, which Northern Sulawesi so far the critters appear not to mind. In 3 Camouflaged creatures abound in originated from the same land-mass as Lembeh Strait – First Stop Muck Town! fact they seem to relish this rubbish; I’ve Lembeh such as this amazing Australia. With origins in both Asia and seen a shoe acting as a surrogate home nudibranch, Phyllodesmium rudmani , Australia, Sulawesi has a diverse array of In northern Sulawesi you’re more likely to for an anemonefish, a chip packet an which mimics a soft coral terrestrial , which have recognise the names Manado, Bangka or alternative to a feather star for a ghost >

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7 and a wine bottle housing an 4 The Lembeh Strait in northern Sulawesi 8 Walea Resort in central Sulawesi Waleabahi island, which has a stunning a couple of hours by car to Pagimana and octopus! 5 Small schooling fish in Wakatobi shallow 9 Wakatobi Dive Resort in southern white sand point. It was founded by a trio then just over an hour by speed boat to waters Sulawesi of intrepid Italians in the late 1990s and the resort. Luckily the transfer is handled Lembeh is one of the more accessible 6 Wakatobi's reefs are a kaleidoscope of 10 Occasionally huge sponges can be seen not long after their arrival they found a by the resort and passes pretty quickly as dive areas in Sulawesi and only a colour on the reef in central Sulawesi new species of pygmy seahorse, which to you’re entertained by the changing 7 Yawning paddle-flap scorpionfish couple of hours from Manado 11 Beautiful spotfin lionfish in Lembeh this day has only been found on their scenery and the occasional cow that Rhinopias eschmeyeri international airport. There’s a huge reefs. It was named in 2009 as ambles onto the road. After this trip you’ll range of resorts to suit all budgets and Hippocampus waleananus or the Walea quickly settle into the resort’s beautifully tastes from simple chalets to 5 star often have quite a ‘hands on’ approach are crystal clear and have some of the soft coral pygmy. Like it's cousins that are designed individual cottages and surely resorts. The close proximity to the better- and will handle and manipulate the best hard coral gardens I’ve seen in limited to life on only specific gorgonian some of the best Italian cuisine outside of known walls and reefs of Bunaken once it’s found and can even cause a fair Indonesia. The movement of water and corals this species exists only on certain Italy! allows for a multi-location trip taking in amount of damage just seeking it out. I underwater topography of the gulf means beige soft corals. It is much more active all that the region has to offer. strongly believe it’s the responsibility of that a warm clear layer of water sits than the other species and apart from Regional Highlights: Walea Soft Coral Personally I’d happily spend two weeks guests to discourage this as the stress to above the cooler nutrient rich waters habitat can also be distinguished by the Pygmy Seahorse, Interesting , mucking around, so to speak, but this the animal is sure to be detrimental and below. The shallows are the domain of constellation of tiny white spots that cover Hard Coral Gardens, Sharks. might not be for everybody! Whichever with the volume of divers visiting the area hard corals, since these conditions suit the body and an exceedingly long tail that you chose you’ll need a de-gas day and many creatures will disappear. them ideally. Clear water allows the tiny allows it to grasp the relatively thick soft Southern Sulawesi northern Sulawesi has some great algae residing within the coral’s tissues to coral stems. The area also gets occasional Wakatobi Region – Spectacular Reefs wildlife spotting opportunities within the Regional Highlights: get plenty of sunlight, with the energy they larger visitors; I saw whitetip, blacktip and Tangkoko National Park. This is only a Rhinopias, Hairy Frogfish, Mimic Octopus, gather then nourishing the coral animal. grey reef sharks on one action-packed Wakatobi Dive Resort is a true oasis in the couple of hours from Lembeh and Banggai Cardinalfish. Clear water means low nutrient levels so dive! These larger species are generally Tukang Besi islands. The name Wakatobi contains many of Sulawesi’s unique without the coral-algal symbiosis the found where currents hit the reef forcing derives from the first two letters of the four animals such as hornbills, black Central Sulawesi tropical shallows would be much poorer in the nutrient rich water upwards. Here huge islands making up the group: macaques and tarsiers and is well worth Togian Islands – A Coral Eden life. For this reason the soft corals and schools of fish such as trevally aggregate Wangiwangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and the trip. gorgonians that don’t have these algal as well as their predators, dog tooth tuna Binongko. Only a few years ago the The Togian islands are found within the food factories within their tissues are only and sharks. journey from Bali took three full and A word of warning: the guides are huge Gulf of Tomini, bordered to the north found in the deeper waters where they can arduous days of plane, ferry and car really keen to show you as many of the and west by Sulawesi’s meandering filter feed. The journey to Walea takes you through travel but the resort has now constructed a critters as possible and will track down northern peninsula with the central part of Manado in the north followed by a short runway on a neighbouring island cutting any special requests. Unfortunately they the island to the south. The waters here Walea resort is at the very tip of internal flight to Luwuk in central Sulawesi, the journey time to two hours! It’s easy to >

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Lembeh Strait Togian Islands

Wakatobi Marine National Park

12 Rainforest, white sand beaches and vibrant coral reefs are typical of the islands classified as Pontoh’s species and the in the Togians brown one as Severn’s. In many areas 13 Lembeh Strait contains an economically pygmy are found so deep that important port and is a boasts a rich fishery only a fleeting visit is possible before your computer becomes upset, but at Wakatobi forget how remote you are but you’ll can also yield half a dozen green turtles I’ve seen all these species shallower than quickly remember as soon as you hit the and you never know what other smaller 10 metres, allowing for much more water. 20 kms of reefs have been gems you might come across! I’ve seen leisurely viewing. protected through a reef lease program mating dragonets, ghost created by the resort and in conjunction pipefish, frogfish and at night a Spanish Regional Highlights: Abundant Pygmy with surrounding villages, which has kept dancer nudibranch with a stunning pair of Seahorses, Halimeda Ghost Pipefish, the area completely pristine. Every luxury imperial shrimp. Vibrant Soft Coral Reefs, Blue-Ringed can be found at the resort, which has Octopus (primarily on the resort’s live grown from strength to strength under the According to Constantinos Petrinos’ book aboard the Pelagian). watchful eye of founder Lorenz Mader Lembeh is the ‘Realm of the Pygmy who discovered the site by travelling the Seahorse’, if this is so then Wakatobi must Becoming Hooked on Sulawesi! region extensively until he found paradise. be the kingdom of the pygmy seahorse with four species commonly seen on the Sulawesi is barely known outside of diving The reefs of Wakatobi are something to reef. Both Denise’s ( Hippocampus denise ) circles but it is a great location to suit all behold, especially when a little current is and Bargibant’s pygmies ( H. bargibanti ) tastes and budgets. Some of its most running causing the soft corals to swell can be found living on their gorgonian pristine underwater areas are a little out of and open their polyps making the walls a coral hosts whilst the newly described the way and require some dedication to rainbow of colour. Whilst the dive boats Pontoh’s ( H. pontohi ) and Severn’s ( H. reach but it is exactly that which keeps will take you out three times a day, the severnsi ) species hide amongst halimeda them in such perfect condition. Sulawesi is house reef (easily be accessed from shore) algae and hydroids. The two new pygmies a great location to visit either on a must not be missed; a school of big-eye had been seen at the resort for many ‘Sulawesi Safari’ or to visit a specific trevally eagerly greets divers taking their years but remained nameless until the end location. There’s no doubt that one visit to turn to have a look at you; the same dive of 2008 when the white pygmy was Sulawesi is never enough!

00 sportdiving magazine october/november 2012 divetheblue.net