complex weaves simple beauty

Construction Library complex weaves simple beauty

BAMBOO //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Bamboo has a vast history of use in the regions of China and Southeast Asia. Archaeologists have unearthed bamboo- relics that are over 5,000 years old at the ruins of Banpo village in Xian, the Shanxi province of the ancient Jin Dynasty. Commonly eaten throughout much of China, the bamboo stalk is the fastest growing plant on Earth. The tallest species can grow over 16” a day, which can yield over nine feet of growth in one week. When harvested, the plant automatically regenerates new shoots the following season to fully replace the quantity harvested. This eliminates the need Pictured: Cairo II Tarragon to replant tree seedlings and staves off the threat of extinction. Bamboo has been a source of the world’s most significant inventions including the first successful light filament and the first manifestation of paper. Other common historical uses include musical instruments, fishing rods, structural posts, furniture, irrigation pipes, weaponry, fine clothing and décor fabrics. Wallpaper and curtains made from bamboo fiber can absorb ultraviolet radiation in various wavelengths to lessen the harm to the human body and environment at large. Refined Bamboo pulp that is processed into fiber is proven to possess strong durability, stability and tenacity. Even after fifty washings, Bamboo fiber is validated by Japan Inspection to protect against bacteriosis and retain moisture absorption without chemical treatment or threat of skin allergy. Raw materials are well-selected from non-polluted regions and are 100% biodegradable. Textus fabric, Cairo II, incorporates Bamboo fiber to reinforce the company’s commitment to produce reduced environmental impact . The characteristically soft bamboo fiber, which can be integrated into a variety of constructions, exhibits a quiet luster and is both natural and renewable. memosamples.com 800.366.6839

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ÉPINGLÉ /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Épinglé, a French term defined as a slender pin wire, is a type of high loop construction used to generate Moquette (or uncut) fabrics. Originating from Lucca, Venice and Genoa, Italy, the art of épinglé weaving is a European technique still in use today. Although the construction continues to elicit a reference to “Genoa Velvet,” more contemporary épinglé weaving, historically referred to as , is prevalently practiced in the Flemish region of Kortrijk and in Belgium. Fashioned as apparel for princes, kings, bishops, cardinals and popes during medieval times, épinglé fabrics are characteristically opulent. In modern day applications, this construction is most frequently used as upholstery because of its soft hand and high durability. As one of the first constructions applied to commercial application, épinglé has been featured by famous furniture designers Pictured: Linq Serrano Charles and Ray Eames. This technique is woven on a wire loom to create an all loop face on the finished fabric. Textus makes the extravagance of épinglé accessible with its Linq pattern, featuring 30 different colorways. This type of construction is excellent for a wide range of upholstered applications including conference rooms, boardrooms, auditoriums and theaters. memosamples.com 800.366.6839

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MOHAIR /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// / generally refers to a -like fabric or made from the hair of the Angora goat. The word Mohair was adopted into the English language in 1570 from the Arabic word meaning “to chose”. Most notable for its high luster and sheen, mohair takes to dye exceptionally well and can be blended with other to enhance the quality of the overall textile. The Angora goat is thought to originate from the mountains of Tibet, eventually migrating to Ankara, Turkey by the 16th Century. Charles V is believed to be the first to bring Angora goats to Europe and, Pictured: Imperial Mohair Wine subsequently, America. Today, South Africa is the largest mohair producer in the world, utilizing humane methods to shear the goats 1-2 times a year depending on the desired fiber length. In one year, the Angora goat will produce 11 to 17 pounds of fiber for the following applications: scarves, suits, sweaters, coats, socks, home furnishings, , wall fabrics, and craft yarns. For the purpose of mohair weaves, the age of the goat is often taken into account. Because mohair follicles increase in diameter over time, the finest hair comes from younger animals and is used in delicate fabrics. The thicker hair from older animals is more often used for carpets and heavy fabrics. Additionally, with enhanced modern technology Mohair weaves characteristically utilize a V binding with a short upright pile for the best value and the lowest maintenance. Mohair fabrics integrating V binding show less crushing and score equally on ACT tests. The Textus pattern, Imperial Mohair, is composed of 100% mohair in a V binding velvet construction and is available in 25 SKUs. To evoke the luxury inherent to upscale venues, designers often utilize Imperial Mohair to adorn corporate dining banquettes and other high focal point public space applications. Additionally, our mohair pattern is a durable and practical choice that ensures generational longevity in both its wear and aesthetic.

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Pictured: Mangrove Roots

PLEAT ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it into place by a variety of means. Donned in ancient Egypt by pharaohs and queens, the original pleat dates back to 4000 B.C.E. Often, the pleat was used to distinguish the status of its wearer through either its multitude or direction on the fabric. Excavated Viking graves dating back to the 10th century showcased tunics defined by their Plissé pleats; a narrow pleat set by gathering fabric with stitches, wetting and drying its folds in place. Painter, Antoine Watteau, portrayed back necklines of 18th century tea gowns with Box pleats to highlight ladies’ slender figures with a bulkier seam. Pleating was again resurrected in the 1840s to provide texture and fullness to the chic narrow waist. Pleats can be configured in several different ways such as in the Accordion, Cartridge, Box, Fortuny, Fluted, Knife, Honeycomb, Organ and Rolled styles. As the technique evolved, the construction of tucking and binding fabric was mechanized. Having expanded from the world of apparel, the pleat is often associated with giving shape to textile products. Fabric can be pleated and folded to create interesting textural effects as well as functional ones. Patterns Sartorial and Mangrove retain the exquisite detail of its forerunners while still providing the durability requisite to contemporary contract fabrics. Pleat constructions are a perfect fit for stunning lobby areas and public spaces. They may also be used in boutique office design as a statement piece in sophisticated conference rooms. memosamples.com 800.366.6839

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SILK ///////////////////////////////////////////////// Silk is a radiant, natural protein fiber obtained from the cocoons of mulberry silkworm larvae. The shimmering luster and soft feel of silk comes from the fibers’ triangular prism-like structure which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles. Known as the strongest natural fiber, silk has the tensile strength of steel and requires 2-3 Pictured: Silk Struktur Taupe thousand cocoons to make one pound of yarn. First developed in ancient China by Chinese empress, Xi Ling-Shi, the fiber was originally reserved for kings of dynasties and their harem of wives. Silk rapidly became a popular luxury fabric and a staple of pre-industrial international trade. The first evidence of the silk trade was the finding of silk in the hair of an Egyptian mummy during the 21st dynasty. Silk trade reached as far as the Indian subcontinent and was so extensive that the trade routes between Europe and Asia were coined “The Silk Road”. Silk soon proliferated cities in Thailand, India, the Ancient Mediterranean, the Islamic world, Medieval Europe, and North America. Industrialization brought about the downfall of the European silk industry. Silk is now primarily manufactured in regions of China wherein production has more than doubled in the last 30 years. Despite its soft, shiny and lustrous characteristics, silk can withstand strong force. A few eccentric applications of the fiber include bulletproof vests, prosthetic arteries and non-absorbable surgical sutures; these strength-based uses reinforce appropriate application in contract venues. Additionally, common usage takes advantage of silk’s absorbency properties. As a comfortable choice of fabric in both warm and cool environments, its elegant luster and soft drape diversifies its applications beyond apparel to include upholstery, wall coverings, window treatments, rugs and bedding. Texus pattern Silk Struktur integrates elegant silk fibers into its overall composition to combine luxury with durability. The pattern is a both a hardy and stunning addition to high end office venues with specific application on side chairs, lounge chairs and in grand lobby areas. memosamples.com 800.366.6839

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Pictured: Ona Amandine

WOOL ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// is a fiber derived from specialized fleece found principally on sheep, goats, llamas and rabbits. Wool’s scaling and crimp make it easier to spin the fleece fiber, provides greater bulk than other textiles, and retains ambient air, which causes the product to preserve heat. Anthropologists believe that due to these properties, wool was created to surmount the challenge of survival in the Neolithic Age. By 4000B.C., Babylonians were wearing clothing of crudely woven sheep’s fabric as plucked by hand or bronze comb. Historically, the raw material has been readily available since the widespread domestication of sheep. As a result, the wool trade defined a primary economic engine for the European Low Countries. The 15th Century marked wool as a significant source of income to the English crown. As a result, a stringent tariff, called the “Great Custom”, was put into place by the English government to strictly control exportation practices. With the presiding officer of the House of Lords sitting upon a “Woolsack”, the fiber soon came to distinguish upper echelon noblemen. The English control over wool trade escalated to such an extent that the American colonies were forbidden to trade wool with any country other than “Mother England”. To enforce these parameters, smuggling of the fiber was punishable by the loss of one’s dominant hand. As the mechanization of wool sheering improved, the production of the fiber soon expanded by global proportions. As a hydroscopic fiber, wool has the power to readily absorb and give off moisture. It is highly breathable, largely cleanable, flame memosamples.com 800.366.6839

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W O O L (continued) /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// resistant, and rapidly renewable. Additionally, it has the greatest ability to return to its natural length after being stretched and has the ability to keep cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Wool can be spun in several different ways and harvested from a variety of species to determine the weight, softness and durability of the final product. Textus fabrics, Ona, H2O, Code, Lana, Signet and Passages combine wool with other fibers to lend the properties of this fiber to their modern, high design representations. These patterns beautifully complement accompanying fabrics and can serve the purpose of warming up cool, neutral color Pictured: Ona Amandine palettes in high-end corporate environments.

Lambs Wool is a type of fleece that is taken from a young sheep before the age of eight months. Because the fiber has not been cut, it has a natural, tapered end that gives a softer feel than that of mature sheep’s wool. Lana, a Textus creation, utilizes Lambs Wool to provide supreme warmth and a soft hand.

Eco Wool is a natural wool yarn that is sheared from free range, roaming sheep that have not been subjected to toxic flea dipping, nor treated with chemicals, dyes or bleaches. Committed to environmental stewardship, Textus composed the Ona pattern from 70% Eco Wool and the Signet pattern from 100% Eco Wool.

Merino Wool is typically three to five inches in length and is the finest, softest and most valuable wool on the market. It is also finely crimped and can be utilized in a variety of applications to enhance the softness of the surrounding environment.

Worsted Wool is spun from wool fibers that have been combed to ensure the woolen fibers all run in the same direction and remain parallel. The essential features are the straightness of the fiber, its longer length and its fine texture.

*Other related animal fibers are Cashmere, Alpaca, and Camel hair. memosamples.com 800.366.6839

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