Page 1 Thursday ▲ ▲ LIST: BEAT: Avon’s Mark NEWS: ’s launches apparel line with Topshop's top retail stylist Britt Bardo, page 10. Sir Philip Green streets said forming ranked by entertainment asking DENIM: Replay’s new venture with rents, ecologically friendly Simon Cowell, page 11. page 3.

concept, page 10. ▲

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 25, 2009 • $3.00

WWDSportswear/Men’s THURSDAY Cutting Loose PARIS — A more relaxed approach to tailoring is shaping up as the big story in European men’s wear for spring. In Paris, where week starts today, Kris Van Assche is readying a Homme collection he calls a “turning point,” based on ultralight jackets with natural shoulders to make “more comfortable, soft and more modern.” For more on Van Assche and Dior Homme, which shows Sunday, and the rest of the collections, see pages 4 to 9. A More Casual Mood: Buyers Praise Trend At Milan Men’s Shows By WWD Staff MILAN — Italian men’s wear designers toned down their collections for spring with more casual, lived-in looks — and hit just the right notes with buyers. “This was not a ho-hum season,” said Tom Kalenderian of Barneys . “I think the designers did an excellent job taking chances. They’re very serious about stimulating business. And creativity is king, because you have to create desire that says ‘I have to have it,’ regardless of price.” “Everyone was in a positive mood. We just talked about the future, how we can change the way we do business and what products we need to change the business. And all the designers offered that, just by showing much more , and just with more ease See Relaxed, Page 9 WWD.COM

WWDThursSportswear/Men’sDay FASHION 6 As the Paris men’s wear collections get set to kick off, designers are turning to comfortable ™ silhouettes and warm hues for spring. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Italian men’s wear designers toned down their 1 collections for spring with more casual, lived-in looks and hit just the right notes with buyers. 3 Topshop tycoon Sir Philip Green and the TV GOOD SPORTS producer and personality Simon Cowell are planning Athletic Wear Scores Big Points in Today’s Wardrobes to form a global entertainment company. 3 The retail industry’s two main trade and lobbying Sports apparel is not just for exercise anymore. groups, the NRF and RILA, have called off merger Apparel Study that they shop mass merchants, 21% talks, declining to give a reason. In fact, data from the Cotton Incorporated head to sporting goods retailers, 11% frequent chain MEN’S: Armed with a thick skin and talent at the 2009 Sports Apparel Study show that 78% of stores and 10% rely on off-price retailers. s 4 cutting table, Kris Van Assche has imposed a women wear athletic apparel for purposes other The good news is athletic apparel scores extra modern spirit to men’s couture at Dior Homme. than exercise. Favorite activities while wearing points at the cash register for consumers looking sports apparel include wearing it around the house to save a few dollars, no matter where they shop. 10 DENIM: Replay unveiled its new eco-friendly (80%), running errands (61%), shopping (35%), According to the Monitor survey, female respondents concept store and Just Add Water collection in Florence last week during Pitti Uomo. attending school or class report paying $10.91 for an (18%), lunch and a movie athletic shirt and $12.29 for BEAT: When Avon executives hired stylist Britt Bardo 10 to style shoots for its Mark catalogue, they didn’t (14%) and even work (6%). “We are all craving something athletic shorts or pants, on According to the Cotton average, compared to $20.64 know she would become a designer for the firm. that makes us feel relaxed and Incorporated Lifestyle for a dress shirt or blouse, and EYE comforted, and sports apparel Monitor™ survey, women $27.61 for dress pants. Talking with Tony award-winning actress Julie may dress the part, but they definitely makes you feel that way.” Women are not just looking 16 Kris Van Assche White, who is making her New York Shakespeare do not necessarily play the – Gili Rashal-Niv, www.TheTipJar.com at price tags when they shop; debut in ’s “Twelfth Night.” part; many own athletic 45% of female respondents Classified Advertisements...... 15 garments in spite of the tell the Monitor survey that To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is fact that they do not appear they usually/always [email protected], using The individual’s name. to enjoy or pursue athletic activities. On average, fabric content labels, too. The fiber that most are WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoU P. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. female respondents own three pairs of athletic pants looking for is cotton: 75% say that cotton and cotton VOLUME 197, NO. 133. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with and three athletic shirts – a surprising number given blends are their favorite fiber to wear overall. one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division the 50% of female respondents who reported that When asked by the Sports Apparel Study to of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services they do not consider themselves athletic and the describe their cotton athletic apparel, female provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage 31% who said that they find exercise boring. Only respondents overwhelmingly say it is comfortable paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. 25% said that they believe they are athletic, while (90%), soft (90%), durable (81%), well-fitting Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS 23% were neutral in their feelings about exercise. (79%) and stylish (74%). to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P. o. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA “Athletic apparel is an emerging category as the “Cotton is also easy to care for and that goes a 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed garments are versatile, low maintenance, boast long way in helping consumers save money, because on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. performance finishes and also offer the wearer great they can launder it and care for it easily,” Bastos For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online fit and comfort,” says Melissa Bastos, Manager of from Cotton Incorporated says. “Cotton garments at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services Supply Chain Planning at Cotton Incorporated. retain their shape and don’t require a great deal of that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please That fit and comfort drives athletic apparel extra attention.” advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, purchases among women. When asked what It is not just ease of care that women seek. They UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER motivated them to buy a particular athletic garment, also want athletic apparel that performs well, MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY 49% of female respondents to the Sports Apparel and manufacturers have done their part to offer WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Study cited fit and comfort. Other motivators consumers a variety of features and finishes in this ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. include price (15%), regard. According to the performance features Women Who Wear Athletic Apparel for Other Purposes Sports Apparel Study, (9%), style (7%) and women are very willing DAILY People hate young flexibility (5%). to pay more for a cotton “ “If it goes from day QUote success; they prefer to Work garment that had an to night, it’s going to be enhanced fit (71%) see you fall flat on your face. For my really relevant for women Lunch and kept them dry (64%) a movie today,” says Meredith absorbed moisture first show, there were around 1,000 Attending Barnett, Director, Digital school or class (62%) or remained odor Media for myLifetime. free (60%). people in the audience and around 900 com. “It’s great if you can Shopping “Cotton athletic find something to wear a p p a r e l d e l i v e r s bazookas pointing at my head. to work out and stay out.” Running errands the ultimate value ” — Kris Van Assche, on succeeding Most women seem equation,” says Barnett Around the house Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme. Page 4. to agree; 68% of female from myLifetime.com. respondents tell the “You can wear it almost 0% 20% 40% 60% 80% CORRECTION Monitor survey that they anywhere and in a variety The TJX Cos. Inc. will pay $2.5 million to establish a data security prefer to get dressed once of ways. It’s easy to care fund as part of its $9.8 million settlement with attorneys general in for the day, rather than changing their clothing to for and so casual, comfortable and stylish that you 41 states. The amount allotted for the fund was incorrect in a story fit different activities. feel great in it, no matter what you are doing.” on page 14, Wednesday. “I think athletic apparel is a great thing for right Whether worn while working out, or out on the now as we face such uncertain economic times,” town, athletic apparel goes a long way in keeping says Gili Rashal-Niv, a West Coast based stylist women stylishly and economically fit. Josh Lucas TODAY ON and founder of The Tip Jar, an online source for at the Persol the latest in fashion and beauty news. “We are all This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Incognito preview. craving something that makes us feel relaxed and ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ WWD.com comforted and sports apparel definitely makes you tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these • Ongoing coverage of Paris Men’s feel that way.” pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it , including reviews, There is little doubt that this recession has relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Fashion Scoops and more consumers keeping a close eye on their wallets. When and behavior regarding clothing, • Additional illustrations from asked where they purchase their athletic apparel, appearance, fashion, fiber selection and 33% of female respondents report to the Sports many other timely, relevant subjects. Paris Men’s Inspirations • WWD Blog: A wrap up of the men’s shows in Milan

PHoTo BY STeVe eICHNeR STeVe BY PHoTo • Global breaking news WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 3 WWD.COM Versace Creates Children’s Art Program FASHION SCOOPS By Marc Karimzadeh children’s causes are especially close to CAT’S MEOW: Marking his foray into gentlemen’s couture, my heart, and I am honored to be able to Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci has designed a bespoke NEW YORK — With her latest project, work with the Whitney on the creation ensemble for Antony and the Johnsons’ front man, Antony Donatella Versace is looking to help of a program that inspires children Hegarty, for his performance July 9 at Paris’ Salle Pleyel. children in need through creativity and through the arts.” The look artfully bends genders, however, featuring a “cat the arts. The initiative will kick off on July 1 jacket,” constructed from sculpted rows of stacked felt For the second time, the house with an afternoon event at the Whitney panels that form a cat’s head on one shoulder, and a long of Versace will sponsor the Whitney with children from the New York chap- dress in beige washed and matching wide pants. Museum of American Art’s Gala and ter of the Starlight foundation. Versace The jacket is said to have been inspired by Hegarty’s pet Studio Party this year, and, as part of herself will be on hand, along with an cat that had passed away just before his first meeting the partnership, the designer and the undisclosed artist, to assist these chil- Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci with with Tisci. The look’s accessories include gloves and gold museum’s education department de- dren with their drawings. Antony Hegarty. glitter shoes. veloped a special global project called Once all the drawings are assem- Art Unites to help underserved chil- bled, a panel of judges, which will MONCLER TO BOW: The Italian-owned outerwear Moncler will take over the Liberty of dren in the U.S. and China — asking be led by the designer and Adam store at 197 Sloane Street, according to industry sources in London. As reported earlier children to draw images based on the Weinberg, a Whitney director, will this week, an unnamed bidder approached Liberty principals, bought their lease and paid a $1.2 theme of friendship. pick a winner from each charity. million cash premium for the 2,000-square-foot London store. Liberty will move out next month, Versace will provide canvases and Versace plans to feature the two win- although it is still unclear when Moncler will move in. A Moncler spokesman in Milan declined art supplies to 500 children from the ning designs on her runway show in to comment. Private equity firm Carlyle Group holds a 48 percent stake in the hot brand that Starlight Children’s Foundation in Milan in September. has worked in the past with Junya Watanabe, Nicholas Ghesquière and Fendi. Remo Ruffini, the the U.S. and 900 children from Jet Li’s The Whitney’s Gala and Studio Party company’s chairman, owns 38 percent, with the remainder held by other investors. One Foundation in China. The fashion is scheduled for Oct. 19, with co-chairs house will then turn each of the result- Versace, Penélope Cruz and Liz Swig. HIS AND HERS: Dutch fashion magazine Fantastic Man is spawning a female counterpart. At ing drawings into a canvas tote, which Meanwhile, on Wednesday, the Z Zegna show Tuesday, Fantastic’s editor in chief, Gert Jonkers, said The Gentlewoman will it will sell at Versace boutiques around Versace and the One Foundation launch next year as a biannual title, with a similar people focus and an emphasis on “interesting the world and through the luxury sam- also unveiled a second Versace One stories.” Jonkers said coverage of women’s fashion would get “a preview” in Fantastic Man’s fall- ple sale e-tailer Gilt Groupe for about Foundation Children’s Centre in winter issue, due out in September. Gentlewoman’s editor in chief has yet to be named. $200 to $250 in October. All proceeds Shuimo, Wenchuan, in China’s Sichuan from the sale will go to Starlight and the Province. It aims to help 500 children GIDDY UP: Adam Kimmel is giving “cowboy diplomacy” One Foundation. and their families whose lives were im- a good name. The men’s wear designer tapped A Jim Krantz “I have been blessed with incredible pacted by the earthquake in that region photographer Jim Krantz, who used to shoot the photo of Adam success in my life,” Versace said. “And last year. The first such center opened Marlboro ads, to help present his collection during Kimmel’s part of that success means being able to in San Jian last year, which Versace and the Paris shows. “It’s Roy Rogers meets the Marlboro collection. give back to people in need. As a mother, Li subsequently toured. Man,” said Kimmel. Krantz traveled to Moab, Utah, for a shoot — using local ranch hands and artist Dan Colen as models — on the same ranch where Krantz previously shot the cigarette ads. Beginning today, the Green, Cowell May Team for Venture Yvon Lambert gallery in Paris will exhibit the fashion By Samantha Conti photos and a supplementary video by Kimmel’s friend Meredith Danluck, who recently screened her bull LONDON — Topshop tycoon Sir Philip Green and the TV producer and personality riding documentary, “Ride,” at MoMA in New York. “It’s all really going to evoke the feeling of Simon Cowell are planning to form a global entertainment company that would cre- the West,” said Kimmel, whose collection incorporates Western wear details such as yokes and ate original content and encompass merchandising and celebrity deals. piping, but made in Italy. “I love the idea of a luxury cowboy.” According to sources in London, the two, who Sir PhilipPhilip GreenGreen are longtime friends, are hoping to launch the SUNGLASSES AT NIGHT: Persol marked the opening of it’s “Incognito” new company officially over the next few weeks. exhibit at the Whitney in New York on Tuesday night with a bash The sources said the project would be a mul- that was anything but. A cast of bold facers including , tifaceted, multichannel project that would create Lucy Liu, Josh Lucas and Matt Dillon were on hand for the fete, which content for Europe and the U.S., entertain audi- featured a lengthy, live performance by Lou Reed. Liu said she came ences and market a variety of products linked to because she’s a fan of Persol, even though she can’t count on its the TV shows. shades when ducking the paparazzi. “There’s not much you can do,” “They are looking at Disney, who are the best said the actress. “I change my location and my zip code.” people on the planet when it comes to merchan- dising,” said one industry source. TREE WAY DESIGNS: A 23-foot giant metallic tree designed by Jean- It is understood Green would keep his fash- Charles de Castelbajac will loom over Paris’ Palais Royal gardens ion and clothing businesses separate from the beginning today. The piece, where a rainbow of fluorescent tubes act new venture, and share his business experience as branches and recycled paper represents leaves, was commissioned with the British-born entrepreneur Cowell, by utility provider Gaz de France to fete the switch from paper to who is best known in the U.S. for his role on electronic billing. Called “Noah’s Tree,” the installation will be “American Idol.” auctioned off to benefit a children’s charity. Further details of the new company could not be learned at press time. MUSIC : Move over, “American Idol.” Over the last few months, Lucy Liu in Diesel has been conducting a juried music competition of its own Giambattista Valli. through its Diesel:U:Music online community. Starting July 3, the 2009 winners, indie bands The Terror Pigeon Dance Revolt and HeartsRevolution, begin their victory lap with a headlining concert in Berlin, the first stop on NRF, RILA Call Off Merger Talks a 12-city Diesel-sponsored tour, with scheduled dates in New York, Tokyo, Paris, London and By Kristi Ellis board did not hold an official vote, but Miami. The two groups are following in the footsteps of “It” acts like Diplo (a 2004 winner) and was involved in discussions with RILA’s S The Fiery Furnaces (2006), for whom the honor — including the tour, music video production

WASHINGTON — The retail industry’s board and reached a joint conclusion to AGE help and related online tie-ins — has proved instrumental in terms of building both fan bases IM two largest trade and lobbying groups end the talks. Y and industry connections. TT

have called off merger talks and will RILA and NRF said in April that they GE continue to operate as separate orga- had agreed in principle to merge, bring- SHINING STAR: is getting ready to sparkle. On July nizations with their own memberships ing together the memberships and finan- KIM/ 13 the star will step onto London’s 02 arena stage to kick off his MJ BY and agendas. cial clout of the industry’s two powerful “This Is It” tour, clad head-to-toe in Crystallized Swarovski Elements.

The Retail Industry Leaders lobbying groups against a backdrop of a ON His array of costumes and sets will feature over 300,000 crystals to

CKS be exact, including 53 different shapes, 43 sizes and 27 colors. Association and National Retail shrinking retail landscape struggling to A

Federation said Wednesday they were survive the recession. ; J “As the King of Pop, it is only natural for him to be crowned

ending merger discussions and declined The NRF’s annual budget is $35 mil- HNER in crystal,” said Nadja Swarovski, vice president international IC E to provide any further details. lion and RILA’s annual budget is an es- communications for Swarovski. E V

“Following a deliberative process, timated $13 million. E

RILA and NRF have ended discussions Both groups declined to comment on ST WRITE ON: Montblanc this month unveiled a special edition of its BY

aimed at merging the two organizations,” why the merger talks fell through, but U signature Meisterstück writing instrument that will help raise funds the two boards of directors said. “NRF the composition of their memberships for UNICEF. The Signature for Good pens, which come in fountain TZ; LI and RILA will devote all resources to con- was vastly different, which often led and ballpoint models, retail from $385 to $690, with 10 percent tinuing the work they are each doing to them to focus on disparate sets of policy RAN of the price going to UNICEF’s literacy and schooling programs address the serious issues that America’s and issue priorities. JIM K for children. The pens — which feature a deep blue sapphire to

BY Michael consumers and retailers are facing in to- RILA represents 65 retailers and L represent the U.N.’s signature color and a filigree gold-plated E Jackson day’s economic environment.” 200 members, including most major dis- replica of the U.N.’s olive wreath logo — are available through May Sandy Kennedy will remain as presi- counters and mass merchants such as at Montblanc’s 33 U.S. boutiques, as well as more than 360 units dent of RILA, and Tracy Mullin will re- Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Home Depot Inc., overseas. Montblanc has raised more than $1 million for UNICEF since 2004 and aims to raise main as president and chief executive Best Buy Co. Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc. another $1.5 million over the next 12 months through a variety of initiatives. officer of NRF until her contract expires and Target Corp. Its membership also in January. The association could renew consists of product manufacturers. SMALL STUFF: Lavinia Borromeo, married to Fiat heir John Elkann, will present her line of children’s ephane Feugere; KIMM t

her contract if the board requests it, ac- The NRF includes 2,500 members S wear, BLav, at trade show Pitti Bimbo in Florence this week. This time, Borromeo goes full force, cording to a spokesman. such as Macy’s Inc., J.C. Penney, J. Crew following a small-scale introduction last season that was presented to retailers in Milan. Meanwhile, o by A RILA spokesman said its board Group, Levi Strauss & Co., Limited t on Wednesday, Vanity Fair Italia hit newsstands with an eight-page photo shoot by François Halard voted unanimously to end merger dis- Inc., Liz Claiborne Inc. and of Borromeo, who is notoriously press shy, together with her husband and their two children, Oceano

cussions. An NRF spokesman said its Neiman Marcus Inc. TISCI pho and Leone. 4 WWD, thursday, june 25, 2009 WWD.COM Men’s Paris Preview Dior’s Van Assche Fends Off the Critics

By Emilie Marsh PARIS — When Kris Van Assche made his debut presen- tation for Dior Homme in June 2007, he knew the knives were out. Lappartient “People hate young success; they prefer to see you I have found a good balance fall flat on your face,” said the 33-year-old artistic di- rector of Dior Homme. “For my first show, there were between“ my personality and the around 1,000 people in the audience and around 900 ba- zookas pointing at my head.” personality of the house. ­ Vincent photo by Van Assche’s apprehension was understandable. He had big shoes to fill following the departure of Hedi — Kris” Van Assche Slimane — Van Assche’s former boss at Yves Saint Laurent and then at Dior — after seven years at the label. “I knew it would be tough, and it was, but you have to be aware of that,” Van Assche said. “It’s part of the price you have to pay.” Armed with a thick skin and a talent at the cutting table, Van Assche, who launched his eponymous label for men and women in 2004, has steered Dior Homme away from his prede- cessor’s course and imposed his own modern- ist interpretation of men’s couture. He started ’10 by exploring different ways of addressing the PARIS that is Dior Homme’s signature. collections/spring “The very skinny structured suit...is obviously men’s and definitely part of a very big historical fashion moment, but [it] is also very difficult to work with,” said Van Assche, who graduated with a degree in from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where Gothic moods, severe shapes and black dominated the fashion landscape. Big ballooning pants and geometric-cut suits have been among Van Assche’s main propositions at Dior — and they’ve been met with mixed reviews. “It’s tough washing off criticism, but only because I feel responsible for the whole team. I’ve never had ev- erybody hating a show and I’ve never had everybody lov- ing it. I have had constructive criticism and some nasty ones, but that is something you can live with — at least I can,” Van Assche said. Indeed, Van Assche calls his spring summer 2010 col- lection “a turning point.” With a subtle color palette and gently tailored piec- es, the line is shaping up to be the most relaxed and light collection he has shown so far at Dior and suggests the designer is loosening up and fashioning the Dior Homme brand to suit his own taste. “I needed those four earlier collections to come to this result. I have found a good balance between my personality and the personality of the house,” he added. “For my fifth show, there will be 1,000 people in the au- trying to respect the heritage, but making it more com- group’s sales, according to Toledano, and is a “growing dience, but perhaps only 100 bazookas pointing at my fortable, soft and modern for today’s use. So no huge category,” one with “great potential,” especially in Asia. In head, so I’m getting there.” ballooning volumes, but a lot of lightness in more con- Japan, for example, sales of men’s wear count for “more He explained: “It’s about how a suit is composed, servative volumes.” than 20 percent” of the business, which Toledano believes Take, for example, unlined two-button jackets in cot- could be the case for the rest of Asia. “The men’s market in ton so light they look transparent worn over loose Asia is extremely important and we are developing there.” Looks from tank tops, or a gray herringbone jacket layered over Dior counts 35 freestanding men’s stores and Dior Homme. a lining-like waistcoat with visible selvage paired Toledano said: “We still have certain stores to open.” He with roomy trousers slightly shortened to show off said shirts, denim, eyewear and Dior’s Chiffres Rouge suede ankle boots. Diver watch were “performing well,” while shoes has Given Christian Dior’s couture roots, Van Assche had “very strong growth recently.” decided to exploit the house’s atelier to its fullest “Men want the codes from the brand and the integrity potential for spring. of the product,” Toledano added. “I have always insisted on the importance Integrity is something Van Assche learned at home of the atelier. Even more so than creating vol- from his 88-year-old grandmother Josephine Van Assche, umes, you need the atelier to create structure, who is a regular in the front row of his shows. so I guess it’s a more intelligent way of using “She would never have tea on just an ordinarily set their knowledge,” he said. table,” Van Assche recalled when he was growing up Walking through the atelier on Rue in Londerzeel, Belgium, just north of Brussels. “There François Premier, Van Assche passed men would be flowers and cakes. She always tried to teach and women — some with more than 30 years’ me that in life you can do things in two ways: You can experience — hovered over sewing machines either eat or you can have a nice dinner.” or adjusting a shoulder on a mannequin to Van Assche chose to dine, and he wants customers to the very millimeter for his upcoming show. do the same. “They have seen designers come and go, One of the biggest changes he is working to impose is some for over 30 years — they’ve seen much a shift from androgynous looks to a healthier masculine bigger designers than I am,” Van Assche said. aesthetic. (The designer traveled to Buenos Aires and “In the end we are all working together to São Paulo for the casting of his upcoming show.) create beautiful clothes.” “Men’s fashion has gone from macho men to androgy- Christian Dior chief executive officer Sidney nous boys. Now there is more of a balance, which I feel Toledano said understanding this is Van Assche’s very comfortable with — something that has to do with strength. being athletic and which is neither too skinny nor too “He is a young man who has a talent, who has an beefy,” he said. eye, who has a sense of tailoring and a sense of fash- “I don’t like the trashiness. I don’t want junkies drag- ion. He brings us ideas and innovations,” Toledano ging themselves down a catwalk. That is not the message said. “But what’s important is the triangle of creative I am trying to send for a couture house. Trashiness has team, designer, and management and merchandising. been the excuse for fashion to be taken as something They are the pillars of retail.…It’s a dance between closer to art,” he added. the designer and his team, and it’s necessary to find Instead, Van Assche is focusing on beauty. a good rhythm. But there is not a single designer who “I’ve never wanted to get lost in concepts or big finds it immediately. It takes time to organize effective- themes. No one seems to concentrate on whether a col- ly and for that reason it gets better and better.” lection is beautiful. Beauty comes from a certain pride Dior Homme accounts for 12 percent of the of walking with a straight back and your chin up.” www.lanvin.com 6 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 Paris Set to Get Soft Designers turn to comfortable silhouettes, warm hues for spring 2010. PARIS

s “High-tech meets high-chic in aerodynamic INSPIRATIONS ’10 silhouette cuts for the world’s most efficient traveler: the bike messenger.” — Paul Helbers, men’s studio director collections/spring under the artistic direction of Marc Jacobs men’s

Kris Van Assche s “Constantly moving, he travels the world in search of his truth.”

s Kenzo “My collection is articulated around a ‘ton-sur-ton’ game of off-whites and sand beiges to powdery colors [such as] military green, faded grays and washed-away blues. All fabrics are natural — mainly linen and cotton associated with more high-tech materials. The whole story is en- riched by camouflage prints and art craft embroideries. ‘Default’ pieces, ‘burnt’ details and raw- edge cut fabrics are some of the strongest statement pieces of the collection. A métissage of inspirations and patchwork of fabrics — loose fit and slim cuts, casual and tailored pieces together — strengthen the allure of the first collection.” — Antonio Marras s Alexis Mabille “My collection is the reflection of how I love to dress myself. I really wanted a very comfortable and fun attitude, fresh with more dressed- up allusions, such as mixing cotton fabrics with crystal buttons.” s Paul Smith “The idea behind my spring-summer ’10 col- lection came from my ongoing connection with music and musicians, thinking about them traveling around the world buying clothes as they went. For instance, classic suits in London, Hawaiian shirts in the U.S., brightly colored stripes in Italy, often mixed with slim- fit trousers in a variety of colors worn with English shoes with a shorter shape than the ones we have been using, which had more of a European look. Colors for suits go from black to navy and lots of gray. Some of the suitings are very rock ’n’ roll with a shiny finish or strong stripes — all in a very Paul Smith collection — mix it with what you want.” WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 7 WWD.COM

PARIS INSPIRATIONS ’10 collections/spring men’s

s Mihara “Le Petit Prince.”

s Dunhill “For spring-summer 2010, I’ve been following on the Alfred Dunhill journey, exploring warmer climates for a new season. Expedition is more about a feeling than a place. Elephant gray is a key color in this collection.” — Kim Jones

s Rick Owens “I’ve been looking at a self-portrait of Peter Berlin, Seventies porn star, as a starting point. Lotsa leather and denim.”

s Bernhard Willhelm “Organic camouflage.”

For more inspirations, see Henrik Vibskov “Can there be life without donkeys? An old story tells WWD.com. that a farmer of mean repute once tried to train his donkey to live without eating. The early stages of the project were quite successful and the animal was able to continue all his daily tasks without reward. The s unfortunate part of the story is that, just as the farmer Hugo was about to prove his point, the donkey went and “The key look for the Hugo 2010 ruined the experiment. With the usual lack of concern summer collection is masculine, and interest most underlings give to the good ideas of their betters, the donkey laid down and died.” tailored and fresh. The colors I used are the codes of the brand Hugo: red and black combined with classic nautical colors such as navy, white and light blue. I was inspired by the seascapes of German artist and photographer Wolfgang Uhlig. What fascinated me about Uhilg’s work is the way he combines nature with architecture. The collection is my interpretation of that idea.” — Bruno Pieters, art director, Hugo 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 WWD.COM Men’s Paris Preview WWD: When you design men’s wear, do you have anyone in mind? D.V.N.: There are a lot of different people that I want to design [for] but I don’t limit myself….It can be a young guy somewhere walking in the street or it can be Prince Charles. Sharp

Q WWD: How do you see men’s wear evolving? D.V.N.: I think that what is good about fashion in this moment is that there are so many different options. What you wear says something about you. It’s a kind of fashion design symbol or status — something Cuts like that. Some people wearing just casual, A others vintage, and others still mixing designer [clothes] with whatever.…All those people are considered fashionable and that’s what I like.

WWD: Is there greater demand for creativity today, given that consumers ’10 are buying less? PARIS D.V.N.: For me, creativity has always been collections/spring important. Of course, people are pickier men’s now and thinking more before they buy something. So you really have to surprise them. DRIES VAN NOTEN I don’t think it’s right to try to make something which pleases them, because clients are always one step ahead of PARIS — Born into a family of tailors, Dries Van Noten what you think they are going to want. So I think you have has been designing men’s and women’s wear under his to really surprise them so they start to ask themselves if own label since the mid-Eighties. WWD caught up with they like it or not and to really catch their interest. the Belgian designer on the eve of his spring 2010 show tonight to discuss the collection and get his views on WWD: What do you like most about designing? creating apparel for men. D.V.N.: Both for men’s and women’s, I loved the fact that — Emilie Marsh we have to create the fabrics. It is the most fun.

WWD: What is the mood of the spring collection? WWD: What is the biggest challenge of designing men’s Dries Van Noten: We are working on something which is very wear? elegant and sartorial…and mixed to a kind of ethnic chic. D.V.N.: You have to surprise men, but you mustn’t design things that are impossible. You have to make things WWD: That sounds like quite an evolution from your which they can get used to. I think it’s important to fi nd January show. What prompted the transition? the right balance. D.V.N.: For me, it’s not a huge shift, going from one thing to another. It has more to do with the fact that I WWD: What is the one pleasure that you have designing wanted to fi nd another approach to ethnic, making it men’s wear that you don’t have in women’s wear? very smart, elegant and sartorial. Immediately it gives D.V.N.: I can try the clothes on myself.…The feeling, the it a different feel. Almost all the fabrics are handmade, comfort and the pleasure of wearing some pieces, for handwoven and hand-printed. We are also using some the feeling that it gives to you, it’s very important. Even very high-technological fabrics, as well as traditional when something is too small for me, I put it on anyway English . just to touch the fabric.

Bespoken Finds a Home at the Ritz : Designing well for a storied house means respecting the past and forging into the future — a balancing act at which By David Lipke While the Fayed brothers are Nicolas Ghesquière excels. Referencing the architectural loathe to talk about their family con- shapes of founding couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, he spun FASHION EDITORS AND RETAILERS nections, they don’t mind using them them forward into a collection that is sartorial, modern — and staying at the Hôtel Ritz for Paris to produce their collections. Bespoken diverse. “The tailoring is graphic and construction compact,” Men’s Fashion Week will find up- uses many of the same produc- Ghesquière said. Sharply cut jackets — some in thick linens — and-coming label Bespoken camped tion resources as Turnbull & Asser, looked rich, as did an ottoman silk coat in pale green. Riffing out in the famed Ritz Bar from today with the shirts made in the latter’s on a subtle Japanese theme, there were high, kimono collars until Saturday. The label, presenting Gloucestershire facility, jackets hand and gleaming metallic samurai sandals. There were also screen- its spring collection, is a collabora- cut in Norwich and ties produced in printed T-shirts and sturdy denim jeans and jackets. Although tion between two groups of brothers: central London. The denim is made still in its infancy (it launched in 2004), Balenciaga men’s wear James, Sam and Liam Fayed, and in the U.S. and features details such is building toward a complete and more accessible wardrobe. Carlos and Paulo Goncalves. as Bespoken shirt fabric on the inside The locale of the presentation isn’t waistband. Shirts wholesale for $115 an accident. The Fayed brothers are to $150, sport coats for $375, jeans for the sons of Ali Al-Fayed, who owns $125, trousers for $129, outerwear for the Hôtel Ritz with his older broth- $250 to $388 and ties for $63 to $78. er, Mohamed Al-Fayed. The elder Bespoken made its debut at retail Al-Fayed siblings also control the in fall 2008 at Harrods — the broth- Star Light Harrods department store, Harrods ers didn’t reveal their identities to the Aviation and the soccer club, among buyers there as to not prejudice them ON THE HEELS OF WINNING other businesses in Great Britain. — and Bloomingdale’s SoHo in New the CFDA Swarovski award for But don’t mistake the Fayed sons York. The latter has since expanded men’s design earlier this month, as dilettantes in the fashion business its buy to the fl agship, Tim Hamilton is prepping for or pigeonhole them as benefi ciaries Chicago and San Francisco. his fi rst runway show. The New of a moneyed bloodline. The three Last month, Bespoken signed New York-based designer has chosen brothers have worked in the industry York’s Denise Williamson showroom Paris because he already does since they were teens, apprenticing at as its global sales agent. Also work- most of his sales there, espe- Turnbull & Asser, the clothier founded ing with the brand as a consultant is cially to Japanese retailers. And in 1885, which was acquired by Ali Al- Bespoken is showing its Nathan Bogle, an original co-founder he felt the city would be more Fayed in 1986. spring collection in Paris of Rag & Bone, who exited that com- receptive than New York to the “I think there’s the risk of them being this week. pany over disagreements with fellow clothes’ expressive quality. For perceived as socialites, and that’s the an- co-founder Marcus Wainwright. spring, Hamilton spun intergalactic tithesis of what these guys are,” said Paulo Goncalves, Bespoken is offi cially based in London, but inspiration into deconstructed and who fi rst met Sam Fayed when the latter answered Carlos Goncalves, 39, is based in Los Angeles with asymmetrical tailoring, transparent a Craigslist ad for a drummer in Goncalves’ band. his brother Paulo, 36. The former is an alumnus outerwear and sheer knits. “They really grew up in the family business and I of Wall Street fi rms and oversees the fi nancial as- — Jean Scheidnes think that really kept them grounded.” pects of Bespoken, while the latter left a career in Liam Fayed, who just fi nished his junior year at advertising and handles the label’s marketing and Syracuse University, recalled working in the stock- branding. Sam Fayed, 23, graduated from UCLA rooms of Turnbull & Asser stores. But Bespoken fi lm school last year, and is based in London and DOMINIQUE MAITRE designs are clearly geared toward a more youth- New York, where he does most of the design work. ful, contemporary customer. Tailored jackets are Liam, 21, is based in Syracuse and Europe, where cropped short, shirts have narrow, rounded collars he directs sourcing and production. James Fayed, and herringbone overcoats have trim silhouettes. 30, is located in New York, where he maintains a Last spring, the company branched out into denim full-time job managing the New York branch of

and accessories. Turnbull & Asser. PHOTO BY TIM HAMILTON WWD, thursday, june 25, 2009 9 WWD.COM Relaxed Milan a Good Fit With Buyers Continued from page one show. I felt he did good pops of color and it was in the fit,” said Tommy Fazio from Neiman Marcus Ermenegildo very masculine.” and Bergdorf Goodman. Zegna Prints and classic men’s wear patterns like Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Prince of Wales or houndstooth made a strong re- Renfrew, Toronto: “It is a time for more consid- turn, while bold reds and deep blues accented an ered consumption. The consumer will be buying otherwise predominantly gray color palette. fewer but better, and the shows in Italy were on The short double-breasted blazer and trench- target. The new direction brings a focus on cre- coat were staples in many collections and tai- ativity, craftsmanship and intelligent design, and lored clothing in general was wrinkled, underlin- an intriguing new approach to mixing casual with ing the relaxed out-of-the-office mood. Trousers formal. Designers in Milan showed us a new way were easy-fit, some with tapered legs or more to blur dressing up and dressing down, with an pleats, while mesh and open-weave knits played emphasis on items such as the double-breasted to transparency and sporty technical fabrications blazer and the dress shirt.…Less banker and more breathed new life into sportswear separates. ‘Man Friday.’” In general, retailers frowned upon anything that stepped outside the casual-chic vibe. Richard Johnson, head of men’s wear buying department, “When designers went too bling, adding too Harvey Nichols: “The mood isn’t about being blatant, many jewels or stones on the outside of garments, rather, products that are very easy to wear and very it just didn’t feel of-the-moment,” said Richard casual, which feel sophisticated. We really liked Johnson of Harvey Nichols. McQueen. While we missed having the runway But the upbeat mood went only so far — buyers show, the clothes were so full of detail it was nice said they were working with flat or slightly lower to see them up close.…Consumers are still willing budgets and reducing their mix of vendors, focus- to pay for really great, really beautiful clothes, but ing on those that offered something new. you have to feel that the human hand is involved “The new environment challenges us to be un- again and not industrialized. Customers want reas- compromising in our selections.…Editing to those surance that they are buying into individual piec- that do it best and offering focused assort- es. There was a very strong aquatic and swimming ments allows our voice of authority to theme. The Thom Browne partnership was a tre- resonate with our customers’ desire mendous show and he communicated his idea very for leading style,” said Barbara clearly. Checks are very prevalent again. Tom Ford Atkin from Holt Renfrew. and Thom Browne’s use of it in tailoring trickled Standout collections in- out into the wider consciousness of desired looks. cluded Giorgio Armani, The pinstripe suits are a little passé. We need a Alexander McQueen, Bottega new direction. There was more innovation in the Veneta, Burberry Prorsum, use of fabrics and color.” Armani Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro, ’10 Gucci, John Varvatos, Moncler MILAN Jason Broderick, buyer for international designerwear, and Prada, retailers said. collections/spring Harrods: “Color featured high on the agenda, [which Here is what buyers had to men’s was] a breath of fresh air after the somber toned say about the Milan collections for neutrals seen for fall ’09.…Back to the carefree spring. Sixties and Seventies was also a prevalent theme with elements of Woodstock Apache-inspired de- Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general tails. There was a new energy and focus this sea- merchandise manager, men’s and home, Barneys New son. It was as though Milan was demonstrating York: “There were quite a few interesting co- a new beginning and freedom of expression for incidences. Red is probably the most obvious. spring 2010. New hope on the horizon for fashion Compared to what we saw six months ago, there was visible in the colors, styles and bon vivant at- was a very refreshing variety and combination of titude to fashion.…It was a very commercial Milan color, because neutral is really not the answer. fashion week for us with equal attention on casual We saw classic men’s wear patterns like Prince of and luxe. We are very positive about next spring.” Wales, houndstooth and grisaille, which is used in morning suits, done in modern proportions and Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente: Cardini combinations. We saw that at Prada and Z Zegna. said she realized “how ahead Italians are” in terms Also a lot of hand-painted fabrics or painterly of research on materials — “extraordinary and designs, which we saw at McQueen, Jil Sander, innovative.” Given the economy, it may not be the Moschino, Bottega Veneta. The short double- greatest commercial moment for formalwear, but breasted blazer is by far the single most impor- designers always make a point to include it in their tant tailored model, worn with trousers, jeans and collections, she said. Cardini praised the fact that shorts. The trench is absolutely a staple. There’s there are “interesting designs,” and that the “level nautical-inspired, waterproofed outerwear that of the offer has not been lowered.” She cited Zegna looks almost American in taste.” designer Alessandro Sartori, Alexander McQueen, Italo Zucchelli at Calvin Klein and Thom Browne at Tommy Fazio, men’s fashion director, Neiman Marcus and Moncler as examples of designers providing chal- Bergdorf Goodman: “It’s really amazing how we’ve lenging offers from a creative point of view. “They transformed men’s from so buttoned-up and tai- are being courageous, and this is very important in lored into this casual, elegant luxury look. This this moment,” she said. season, I say, just breathe. And that’s what the clothes are doing. I call it an easy, breezy summer. Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager, women’s Most shows had great product. A few high points and men’s apparel, Printemps: “There is no single un- were Burberry and Etro. Bottega Veneta did the derlying theme for spring-summer 2010; rather, most amazing combination of color, style and there is a general return to calm. Silhouettes are trend. [Tomas Maier] was right on every point. Ermenegildo Zegna did For more on much looser, far less strict, less lengthy. Trousers are not as slim, while a great job of transforming themselves from a tailored company to a the Milan men’s shoulders are dropped. There are [a] few strong colors but there is a modern sportswear brand with a hint of tailoring. They were right on.” very rich palette of muted tones such as gray, night blue, beige, sand collections, see and white. After a difficult season in the store and with creative bud- Eric Jennings, vice president, men’s fashion director, Saks : “I’m lov- WWD.com. gets on the decline, we noted very few risks taken by designers and ing what I’m seeing in tailored clothing because it’s innovative and it’s brands, which instead focused on their origins and brand DNA: Dolce not just for business, and also the slim jacket combined with different & Gabbana, Jil Sander…all proposed a wearable wardrobe and a style dimensions of trousers. I think that’s going to be an interesting way of up- accessible to everyone. Jackets, outerwear and trenchcoats (such as dating the suit look. I’ve hardly seen any ties, and when I see them, they’re Burberry, Gucci and CP Company) were out in full force, while trousers — knit, cotton, linen. Actually we did see quite a bit of bow ties. The majority of many pleated — gained volume.” designers have really done a good job of editing the collections, adjusting prices if necessary and making sure everything is commercially viable. I loved Prada and Etro. Grégoire Proffit, senior buyer, Galeries Lafayette: Proffit said there was a focus on acces- Talk about polar opposites, but both did a great job innovating with fabric, color, tex- sories, particularly hats such as derbies, and “a gentlemanly attitude,” which was ture and layering.” “simple during the day and vivid” in terms of color at night. Collections were “less bling bling” and consequently “easier to wear, chic and simple.” He cited three-piece Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion direction, men’s, Bloomingdale’s: “We saw lots of black fitted suits, trenchcoats, sandals, jackets combined with Bermuda shorts, distressed and gray predominantly, but there were some good bursts of blue and red to bring or easy chic jeans and punched leather jackets as key pieces for the season. interest to the sales floor in a masculine way. We noticed a lot of patterns, which is refreshing. Pants are changing quite a bit, getting fuller, as I think designers are being Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director, Villa Moda, Kuwait: “Casual looks with embel- more sensitive to store needs. There was a lot of great classic tailoring using new lished details…offer men the chance to have fun and relax. They are real clothes, fabrics. It’s obviously challenging out there, and in order for us to win, our customers well designed and with better finishing. The only thing to wait and check is the price still need newness. Consumers are willing to invest in exciting fashion or classics that point. Bottega Veneta has wonderful choices on coordination with colors, richness on will be in their wardrobe forever. I really loved the Giorgio Armani show, it was one the fabrics. Prada has an unbelievable range of gray in thin jersey, wool, houndstooth of the best Armani shows I’ve seen in a few years. Ermenegildo Zegna, with all the and herringbone, and it looks so rich with layers of different gray in fabrics. It is the great fabrics, Gucci was very glamorous and modern, and I really liked the Varvatos new black for spring-summer next season.” 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 WWD.COM Denim Report The Beat Replay’s Eco-Friendly Concepts Britt Bardo Makes Her Mark By Julee Kaplan are all a variation on pieces I live By Luisa Zargani and Ross Tucker who noted store components all come from the in all the time. Who doesn’t need area around Florence to cut pollution derived WHEN AVON HIRED CELEBRITY a great cardigan or an interesting ITALIAN JEANS AND SPORTSWEAR BRAND from transportation. stylist Britt Bardo to style some of T-shirt to mix and match?” Replay unveiled its new eco-friendly concept In the store, Replay displayed items made its shoots for the company’s Mark For Bardo, this collaboration store and collection in Florence last week dur- with a new kind of denim, under the Just Add catalogue, little did it know she isn’t her fi rst foray into design. ing the city’s Pitti Uomo men’s wear exhibition. Water moniker, whereby the fabric is washed would soon be working for the Besides styling Hollywood no- “We are addressing our customers at a senso- in four tubs, not 12, and a less polluting ingre- company as a designer. tables including Kate Hudson, rial-technological level,” Replay chief executive dient than indigo is employed. The pieces are “Watching Britt from afar, I’ve Cameron Diaz, Eva Mendes and offi cer Gaetano Sallorenzo said during a tour of stitched with special turquoise seams. been so impressed with her aes- Maggie Gyllenhaal, Bardo also the store. “This is our new style, more modern, “The water obtained by the treatment can thetic and ability to take pieces had her own contemporary cloth- contemporary and simple. Our store image had even be drinkable,” Sallorenzo contended. and put them together in a fresh, ing line, Rose. After four seasons grown a bit heavy.” Replay has worked with its suppliers to modern way,” said at retail, Bardo said she has put develop new production and manufactur- Claudia Poccia, global the brand on hiatus due ing processes that signifi cantly lower the president of Mark. “As to the economy and environmental impact for Just Add Water. soon as we brought the loss of her fi nan- According to Replay, traditional methods of her on to style we cial backer. But after dyeing, manufacturing and laundering denim could see that we selling that collec- require as much as 5,000 liters of water, or had this unbe- tion to high-end 1,320 gallons. To reduce that number, Replay lievable talent specialty stores like worked with chemical provider Clariant here, someone Barneys New York International on a new dyeing who was making and Satine, Bardo agent that cuts down on the her mark (sic) on said she is looking yarn dyeing process. the industry.” forward to offering “The concept is to fi nd a So, the Mark people a more af- way to substitute the indigo team and Bardo fordable, but just as Replay’s new eco-friendly store. with a different type of dyeing came out with fashion-forward col- Right: Jeans from Just Add Water. agent that is less invasive as a the Britt Bardo lection of items. pollutant,” said Sallorenzo. Collection by To help promote The company’s more focused The process also keeps the Mark, a three- the new collection, drive to fi nd alternative solutions waste water from being col- piece essentials Bardo has filmed a to heating and cooling the venue, ored, eliminating the need for mix. There’s the video, which will air and its research in more eco- further chemical treatments to “Only Need Me on meetmark.com in logical washes, also stems from rid the waste water of harmful Tee,” a longer- October. The video Sallorenzo’s belief in a more sus- substances. For Just Add Water, length fi tted T-shirt highlights some of tainable lifestyle. Replay also worked with laundry with open neck and Bardo’s ideas for The nature-friendly mood is set Denim Village and Turkish denim cap sleeves made in styling with the at the entrance, with a cascade of mill Orta Anadolu. Tencel; the Tencel three items. water streaming over a wall and a Sallorenzo stressed Just Add “Cover Up Cardigan,” Founded by luscious vertical orchard. Water is not a completely environ- a long sweater that Avon Products Inc. “We called the store mentally friendly product, but is a comes with extra long in 2003, Mark is the Regeneration because we need step toward making a more sustain- cuffs, and the “Slip Britt Bardo (right) styling company’s beauty to use resources we already able product and company. Into This Dress,” a her cardigan for Mark. and fashion boutique have,” Sallorenzo said. Just Add Water will be a 35-piece col- polyester and span- brand aimed at a With a special energy-saving lection that will hit stores in September. It dex slipdress with adjustable younger set. The Mark product system, for example, the cooling includes T-shirts, jackets and denim. The straps. The T-shirt retails at $24, collection, sold directly to con- and heating system springs from line’s graphics and color palette will based the cardigan at $28 and the dress sumers through the Web site and fresh air coming from a cellar on the water theme. at $26. The collection will be Mark representatives, consists of below the ground fl oor, where a pool of The store, located a few steps away available through Mark sales rep- fi rst-to-market exclusive products running water is located. from the imposing city cathedral, is also resentatives and at meetmark.com in the categories of makeup, skin “We save about 50 percent of energy this a viable business tool. Reopened after two in October. care, fragrance, apparel and ac- way,” said the ceo. and a half months of construction work, the “We wanted to start out easy cessories. Geothermic panels, wood fl ooring, iron de- venue generates yearly sales of about 1.5 mil- and straightforward,” Bardo said. Looking forward, Bardo said tails, a hearth and grass strips add to the natu- lion euros, or $2 million at current exchange. “We thought about three staples, she is in talks to create more prod- ral vibe. This store concept will be replicated in other something user friendly. These ucts for Mark. “We are aiming at creating different corners locations, such as Milan, which just closed for where customers feel at ease,” said Sallorenzo, renovations. WWDTREND David Meister Gets Web Savvy DAVID MEISTER HAS MADE IT TO THE WEB. After 10 years in business, the designer is launching his fi rst e-com- SILVER LINING merce site today on davidmeister.com, which he views as a step toward ▲ Tarina For holiday and fall, designers across expanding the Kellwood Co.-owned brand. Tarantino markets are playing up the shimmer “Establishing our own retail identity will help position the brand for factor with little dresses, festive separates growth as we move into other product categories in the future,” said Meister, the brand’s chairman and creative director. and statement accessories. — Leila Baboi The new shopping site showcases the full David Meister collection, from daytime dresses to eveningwear. It also will sell a full range of women’s sizes, from 14 to 24, which Meister launched last year. In addition, the site offers customers photos from the red carpet, where Meister has dressed celebrities such as Diane Lane, Sharon Stone, Jennifer Hudson and Mariah Carey. Davidmeister.com will incor- porate the brand’s new social networking initiative by linking Guess to the David Meister Facebook ▲Kipling fan page, an effort to increase communication with customers. Meister said he hopes to get A look at the new into more categories, such as davidmeister.com. bridal gowns and shoes. “The Web site will provide

▲ Cesare David’s fans with a larger selec- Paciotti tion of styles, colors and sizes, while also giving them a true taste of what the David Meister brand is all about — timelessness and sophistication,” said Eric Hunter, senior vice president of brand awareness at Kellwood. “We’ll market the brand using both traditional and nontraditional channels — through affi liate marketing programs and social networking. We want to fi nd innovative ways to communicate to David’s consumers both online and off.” ▲ Myne The site, administered by Kellwood’s digital team, will be controlled out of the brand’s City of Industry, Calif.-based offi ces.

KRISTIN BURNS David Meister dresses are sold in high-end department and specialty stores, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s For more, see WWD.com. and Nordstrom.

PHOTOS BY — J.K. The List-14

WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 11 WWD.COM What a difference a year makes. Rents have dropped in several of the hottest retail corridors, including the Meatpacking District and Madison Avenue, For since spring 2008. The Real Estate Board of New York’s spring 2009 report TheWwDList more, see said a few areas, such as the West Village and the Financial District, have shown modest gains in the last year. However, since fall 2008, the WWD.com. average asking rent for available retail space has fallen 11 percent, to $115. “When the market tumbled in September, retailers wanted to hold out until the holidays to see what would happen,” said Mike Slattery, The Price Is Right senior vice president of REBNY. “Building owners had the same frame of mind during the winter. Owners have been more willing to negotiate Manhattan’s top retail corridors ranked by changes in free rents and provide allowances for tenants…a softer market provides an average asking rents per square foot. opportunity for people to get a foothold into a market.” — Cecily Hall

WEST VILLAGE, BLEECKER STREET, BETWEEN SEVENTH AVENUE MEATPACKING, 14TH STREET, BETWEEN NINTH AND TENTH AVENUES SOUTH AND HUDSON STREET Percent change: -10 percent Percent change from spring 2008: 33 percent 2009 average asking rent: $417; 2008: $462 2009 average asking rent: $528; 2008: $397 “This is another great example of an emerging retail “The West Village has emerged more now as a location in Manhattan,” Slattery said. “The rent retail destination,” said Slattery. “It has a certain is still cheaper than places like Madison Avenue.” 1 appeal — people want to be here.” Marc Jacobs, 8 The former meatpacking facilities have been Polo Ralph Lauren and Coach’s Legacy store can be transformed “into sleek retail spaces, and mixed-use found here. In January, Brooks Brothers unveiled its buildings are rising,” WWD reported last month. Black Fleece stand-alone store at 10th and Bleecker Hugo Boss, Matthew Williamson and Tory Burch Streets (left). (left) all have opened new stores in the area.

FINANCIAL DISTRICT, BROADWAY: BETWEEN BATTERY PARK AND UPPER EAST SIDE, EAST , BETWEEN LEXINGTON AND CHAMBERS STREET SECOND AVENUES Percent change: 27 percent Percent change: -11 percent 2009 average asking rent: $251; 2008: $198 2009 average asking rent: $400; 2008: $450 Some high-profile retailers have taken advantage of This neighborhood is a mixture of recent college the renewed interest in lower Manhattan. Stores such grads, young families and retirees. It has undergone 2 9 a lot of change in recent years as condominiums have as Borders, Ann Taylor Loft and Nine West have opened along this strip of Broadway. The Century 21 sprung up on busy 86th Street, creating plenty of department store (left), across from the World Trade retail space. H&M opened its 10th Manhattan location Center site survived the 9/11 attacks and has been at here (left) last month. It joins other destinations such the location for almost a half-century. as Victoria’s Secret and Children’s Place.

TIMES SQUARE, BETWEEN BROADWAY AND SEVENTH AVENUE, 42ND MIDTOWN, FIFTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 42ND AND 49TH STREETS THROUGH 47TH STREETS Percent change: -13 percent Percent change: 16 percent 2009 average asking rent: $615; 2008: $704 2009 average asking rent: $941; 2008: $809 Anchored by the New York Public Library and “This area captures enormous foot traffic, and the Bryant Park to the south, and Rockefeller Center quality of retail has begun to pick up,” Slattery said. to the north, this section of Fifth Avenue caters to 10 both tourists and business people. Retail offerings 3 A plethora of well-known retailers have launched in Times Square. Stores range from Toys ‘R’ Us to include Barnes & Noble and Kenneth Cole. And at Sephora. Hershey’s (left) has a location here, while 49th Street, the American Girl Place New York store Quiksilver/Roxy and Sunglass Hut represent the (left) features dolls, books, clothing and accessories, apparel and accessories side in the corridor. along with a restaurant and photo studio.

HARLEM, 125TH STREET, RIVER TO RIVER UPPER EAST SIDE, THIRD AVENUE, BETWEEN 60TH AND 72ND Percent change: 11 percent STREETS 2009 average asking rent: $119; 2008: $107 Percent change: -16 percent This retail area is one of the largest, in terms of 2009 average asking rent: $275; 2008: $329 geography, with an expanse across Manhattan from With Bloomingdale’s (left) at the southern end of the East River to the Hudson River, Slattery said. this corridor, the area features a fair share of high- 11 end consumers who also frequent the many upscale 4 Specialty retailers range from Aerosoles, Lane Bryant and Avenue, to Dr. Jays, Mony and Jimmy boutiques along Third Avenue. National names Jazz (left). H&M opened a location here in 2005. have also jumped into the retail scene here. Banana Other attractions include the famed Apollo Theater Republic, Ann Taylor and Coldwater Creek have set and the Cotton Club. up shop, as has recent entrant, Lululemon.

SOHO, BROADWAY, BETWEEN HOUSTON AND BROOME STREETS MIDTOWN, FIFTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 49TH AND 59TH STREETS Percent change: 7 percent Percent change: -17 percent 2009 average asking rent: $452; 2008: $424 2009 average asking rent: $1,631; 2008: $1,958 A number of flagships have bowed in this fashionable Luxury stores along this 10-block stretch include district of lower Manhattan: Uniqlo opened in 2006 Saks Fifth Avenue at 55th Street (left), and 5 and Topshop unveiled a four-level, 40,000-square- Bergdorf Goodman and Bergdorf Men’s, both at 12 58th Street. Meanwhile, Henri Bendel, Abercrombie foot store in April (left). Mango celebrated the relaunch of its flagship at 561 Broadway in & Fitch and Tiffany & Co. have flagships here, November. And Prada’s flagship, formerly the home along with Armani and Gucci — all of which attract of the SoHo branch of the Guggenheim Museum, tourists from nearby hotels, such as The New York

roman boasts 23,000 square feet of space. Palace, the St. Regis and the Omni Berkshire Place. john by UPPER WEST SIDE, COLUMBUS AVENUE, BETWEEN 66TH AND 79TH HERALD SQUARE, WEST 34TH STREET, BETWEEN FIFTH AND STREETS SEVENTH AVENUES Percent change: -4.1 percent Percent change: -23 percent 2009 average asking rent: $257; 2008: $268 2009 average asking rent: $508; 2008: $656

bloomingdale’s A mix of brands are snapping up the retail space in Two of the corridor’s most famous attractions — the this district, including Boyd’s of Madison Avenue Empire State Building and Madison Square Garden 6 13 — are within blocks of each other. While retailers and Design Within Reach. Other beauty and skin centeno; care brands, such as Kiehl’s, L’Occitane, Lancôme such as Banana Republic, Victoria’s Secret, Old and Clarins, are located here, as well. Just to the Navy and H&M provide many shopping options in talaya south of the corridor is The Shops at Columbus this busy area, the largest retail player is Macy’s by Circle at the Time Warner Center. Herald Square (left). burch

tory UPPER EAST SIDE, MADISON AVENUE, BETWEEN 57TH AND 72ND UPPER WEST SIDE, BROADWAY, BETWEEN 72ND AND 86TH STREETS STREETS Percent change: -24 percent Percent change: -8 percent 2009 average asking rent: $293; 2008: $384 chinsee; 2009 average asking rent: $979; 2008: $1,066 This lively section of the Upper West Side features This corridor long has been an attractive destination retailers such as Loehmann’s, Filene’s Basement, george for high-end retailers such as Barneys New York Barneys Co-op, Origins, Victoria’s Secret, Urban by 7 14 Outfitters and Banana Republic. Along with the (left). Designer names like Dolce & Gabbana and Prada also have locations here, as do fine jewelry shopping, Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, photo names such as Fred Leighton, Baccarat and Bottega the American Museum of Natural History and Veneta. French home accessories brands, including Columbia University are in close proximity and help fleece Christofle and Pierre Deux, are found here, as well. draw diverse crowds. black SOURCE: REAL ESTATE BOARD OF NEW YORK’S SPRING 2009 REPORT; FOR ADDITIONAL RANKED CORRIDORS, INCLUDING 57TH STREET, SEE WWD.COM 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 WWD.COM MEMO PAD L’Oréal Appeals eBay Ruling NEW CANVAS: Jeffrey Nemeroff, longtime art director at Architectural Digest, has left the magazine, not long after butting PARIS — L’Oréal’s fight against eBay continues owned brands, such as Trésor. heads with the magazine’s famously tough-talking editor in chief, here. L’Oréal initiated in 2007 a series of proceedings Paige Rense. On Tuesday, the French beauty giant announced against eBay in several countries. On May 22, the Nemeroff, who like much of the magazine’s editorial staff it is appealing the Paris High Court’s May 13 ruling U.K. High Court ruled eBay is not jointly liable is based in California, is also a painter who recently had a in favor of eBay. The court had found eBay is not for trademark infringements committed by sell- show at the Neuhoff Gallery in New York. In May, New York accountable for the sale of L’Oréal prod- ers using its site. A court in Belgium also found in magazine’s Daily Intel blog reported Rense had called designers ucts on its French Web site. The court ruled eBay favor of eBay in a similar case in 2008. L’Oréal has to discourage them from attending Nemeroff’s opening and has implemented means to fight the sale of counter- since appealed the Belgian court’s decision and the celebratory dinner. Rense told New York’s Steve Fishman feit products on its online platform, thereby fulfill- case will be heard before the Court of Appeals in designers believed Architectural Digest was directly involved ing its obligation of fair dealing. Brussels in 2010. and felt pressured to purchase a painting. She also said she L’Oréal had been asking for damages of 3.5 million EBay, for its part, has been courtside not only had been “blindsided” by the event, though the gallery owner euros, or $4.9 million at current exchange. with L’Oréal but also with luxury groups, including was quoted saying Rense had given the show her blessing The court proposed eBay and L’Oréal find an Tiffany & Co., LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton months earlier. amicable settlement via legal mediation. and Hermès International. A spokeswoman for Architectural Digest (which is owned by As planned, the two parties met on May 25 to In other L’Oréal legal news, its Garnier brand WWD parent Condé Nast Publications) confirmed Nemeroff had come to an agreement about methodology to com- and recruitment firm Adecco were found guilty of left the company, and that his deputy, the New York-based George bat the sale of counterfeit goods. However, eBay discrimination Tuesday by the French Supreme Moscahldes, had been promoted to the post. Nemeroff did not then formally notified the court’s decision, which Court. This followed an appeal filed by L’Oréal in respond to requests for comment. — Irin Carmon resulted in a one-month deadline for appeals. In July 2007 regarding a lawsuit started in 2000. At the absence of an appeal, the court’s May ruling that time, SOS Racisme, an antiracism organiza- BLAIR’S PROJECT: Tony would become definitive. tion, claimed that when recruiting product demon- Blair is the highest paid “Thus, as a precaution, L’Oréal is obliged to ap- strators for Garnier’s Fructis brand in September public speaker in the peal the decision simply out of respect for proce- 2000, Districom, a subsidiary of Adecco, sent a fax world now, receiving dural deadlines,” the company stated. to its temporary employment agencies requesting approximately $400,000 L’Oréal added the appeal lodged “is a measure candidates that were described as “BBR.” The ac- a pop, but he sat down that intends to protect the group’s rights. L’Oréal ronym purportedly stands for “bleu blanc rouge,” with Vanity Fair editor confirms its willingness for mediation, with the aim allegedly meaning Caucasian. Graydon Carter on Tuesday of defining efficient and ongoing measures to fight On Tuesday, the French Supreme Court main- evening free of charge against the sale of counterfeit products on eBay. tained that a 30,000 euro, or $41,944, fine must be es to talk about everything g The group emphasizes that measures of this type paid by L’Oréal and by Adecco. However, a court from his relationship with have already been put in place across other plat- will review at a later date 30,000 euros worth former President George forms. These measures are crucial for the success- of interest and damages possibly owed by each /Getty Ima

W. Bush, to Iraq and l ful development of secure electronic commerce company. oo P

his work in the Middle and reflect the expectations of consumers, online “L’Oréal acknowledges the decision rendered

East, to the memoir he PA /W is writing, for which he l ea is reportedly being paid N BEAUTY BEAT [June 23] by the French Supreme Court and ex- $9 million and will be presses its disappointment in the outcome of this published in 2011. In platforms and rights holders.” case,” the company stated. “L’Oréal continues to re- front of a crowd that Tony Blair In response to L’Oréal’s appeal, an eBay spokes- ject the accusations of discrimination made against included Barbara Walters, Leon photo by woman said, “As previously stated, eBay believes its affiliate Garnier by SOS Racisme. The group em- Brian Williams, Matt that mediation, dialogue and collaboration are es- phasizes that the respect of individuals is one of its Lauer, Diane von Furstenburg and Barry Diller, Ben Bradlee, Katie sential in resolving these issues.” fundamental values. L’Oréal is convinced that dif- Couric, Oscar de la Renta, David Lauren, Vivienne Westwood and Meanwhile, the two companies’ judicial media- ference and diversity are a source of richness and Christopher Hitchens, the former British prime minister said he tion continues. creativity for all and does not tolerate any form of hasn’t yet adjusted to his higher income bracket and hasn’t As reported, L’Oréal has launched numerous racism or discrimination of any kind.” made any big purchases. “But ask me in a few years,” he added. cases with the stated aim of clamping down on Further, L’Oréal highlighted it had received on Blair stood his ground on Bush, adding they exchanged e-mails . The European Court of Justice last May 14 a Diversity Seal of Excellence from Eric a few weeks ago. “I’ve never been a fair-weather friend,” noted week ruled in favor of L’Oréal in a case brought Besson, the minister for immigration, integra- Blair. “I’m still friends with him.” And he defended invading against Bellure, Malaika and Starion, which were tion, national identity and unified development in Iraq, saying, “If you can intervene to save people from brutal accused of manufacturing, importing and distrib- France. dictatorships, you should do it.” Blair’s also in regular contact with uting imitations of famous fragrances by L’Oréal- — Jennifer Weil his other presidential buddy, Bill Clinton, to which Carter said there is a film in the works about their relationship. Peter Morgan, who wrote “The Queen,” is behind the new movie, but Blair didn’t have much to say, adding he hasn’t even seen “The Queen.” When the film debuted, Blair said he sat down for his weekly meeting with Industry Groups Fear Higher Costs in Energy Bill Queen Elizabeth II. “I gather there’s a film,” said the Queen. “I’d just like you to know that I’m not going to watch it — are you?” Blair By Kristi Ellis to the textile industry, and establish a mandatory told her he wouldn’t see it, and he’s stayed true to his word. “border-adjustment” tariff to be imposed on import- Blair juggles several jobs these days, including his work as WASHINGTON — U.S. textile groups said Wednesday ed products made in countries that fail to adhere adviser to JP Morgan Chase; founder of the Tony Blair Faith that a comprehensive climate change and energy to the same new emissions regulations imposed on Foundation, which seeks interfaith understanding and respect, bill the House is slated to take up as early as Friday U.S. companies. and working as U.N. special envoy to the Middle East. Blair said could lead to substantially higher operating costs, “One of our remaining competitive areas is the it is “hard to overstate the impact” of President Obama’s speech in putting domestic producers at a disadvantage cost of energy in the U.S.,” said Cass Johnson, presi- Cairo earlier this month. against global competitors. dent of the NCTO. “It is relatively lower than a lot The audience also was invited to ask Blair a few questions. The climate change bill is a chief pillar of of other countries, but this bill could raise our costs “Having done a few interviews, I’ve found this exchange tonight President Obama’s agenda and he ramped up an 15 to 20 percent, and that will eliminate that advan- one of the most fascinating I’ve ever seen,” Walters said. Blair intense lobbying effort this week to garner lawmak- tage and easily put textile mills out of business.” then looked at Carter and said, “Actually, you’re very good in ers’ support. fact.” Carter, looking a little uneasy, said, “Thanks. I’ll keep my “This week, the House of Representatives is mov- day job.” — Amy Wicks ing ahead on historic legislation that will transform the way we produce and use energy in America,” This bill could raise our costs GONE ALREADY: The Calvin Klein billboard at Houston and Obama said at a news conference Tuesday. “It is “ Lafayette streets, which made the news last week for showing a legislation that will finally spark a clean energy 15 to 20 percent, and that will seminude threesome, has been replaced by model Doutzen Kroes transformation that will reduce our dependence on in skimpy swimwear. The old billboard stirred controversy among foreign oil and confront the carbon pollution that eliminate that advantage and passersby and also in the media, but changing the image wasn’t threatens our planet.” a response to any of this — the timing was planned all along, But prominent textile trade groups, includ- easily put textile mills out of claimed a spokesman. — A.W. ing the National Council of Textile Organizations, American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition business.­ BALLY HIGH: After appearing in the spring campaign, Christy and National Textile Association, came out in ” — Cass Johnson, NCTO Turlington is back as the face of Bally for fall. Mario Sorrenti shot opposition to the bill, in a letter to Congress on the campaign, Wednesday. which was styled “As an industry that is heavily reliant on low- Auggie Tantillo, executive director of AMTAC, said, by Lori Goldstein, cost energy to produce more than $16 billion in “Some of the biggest violators of the environment are who works with exports, this bill would cause an undue financial manufacturers in the Third World and if we don’t equal- Vanity Fair and strain through the increased costs of regulations ize that in some fashion, we’ll be handing over 10 million Versace. Brian with respect to the escalating demand (and there- more jobs.” Atwood, Bally’s fore price) for natural gas, our main energy source, But Stephen Lamar, executive vice president designer, served which has a carbon advantage over other main of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, as creative energy sources, as well as our coal-reliant energy which has not taken a position on the bill, said a director of the utilities,” the textile groups wrote. border adjustment import tariff could run afoul of campaign. Ads The associations are pressing lawmakers to World Trade Organization rules, potentially spark a will appear in make two changes in the draft of the bill: extend trade war and also penalize “good players trying to magazines in emissions allowances that are reserved for ener- mitigate their carbon footprint” while making ap- Christy Turlington in a Bally ad. August. — A.W. gy-intensive industries, such as steel and cement, parel in foreign countries. S.L.A.T.E. at MAGIC

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Nike Profits Drop 30.4% in Qtr. 10 Best Performers By Matthew Lynch Nike said net revenues would have been “essentially flat” without the ef- Nike Inc. said Wednesday its fects of currency shifts. DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt fourth-quarter net income fell more Mark Parker, president and chief than 30 percent, eroded by a 16 percent executive officer, said on a call with High Low Last %Change decline in worldwide apparel sales and analysts that Nike is targeting - unfavorable currency fluctuation. est growth for the new fiscal year but In the three months ended May 31, expects factors such as more currency 1.29 1.02 Unifi (UFI) - 210890 1.25 +14.68 the Beaverton, Ore.-based athletic foot- fluctuation to weigh on gross margins. wear and apparel giant recorded a 30.4 “I believe the markets will not be 0.19 0.12 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 3939515 0.16 +14.21 percent decline in net income to $341.4 driven by the frugal consumer, but by the million, or 70 cents a diluted share, focused consumer,” he said. “Innovation 7.87 6.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 361990 7.82 +12.68 from $490.5 million, or 98 cents a share, does not stop at the $100 price point. a year ago. Excluding costs for restruc- We’re busy creating sharper and more turing and other charges, earnings per compelling products up and down the 2.40 2.18 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 951 2.18 +9.00 share totaled 99 cents in the quarter, 3 price ladder, and that’s especially im- cents above the consensus estimate re- portant given the times we’re in.” 0.49 0.46 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 2475132 0.48 +6.44 ported by Yahoo Finance. Footwear and apparel ordered for In a move to trim costs and stream- delivery from June through November 2.05 1.88 Casual Male (CMRG) - 211892 2.03 +6.28 line operations, the company cut about totaled $7.8 billion, down 12 percent 1,750 positions, 5 percent of its global against last year. 1.38 1.30 Bluefly (BFLY) - 300 1.38 +6.15 workforce, during the quarter. For all of fiscal 2009, Nike’s profits slid Sales in the three months fell 7.4 per- 21.1 percent to $1.49 billion, or $3.03 a 15.71 14.86 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 14.7 1337102 15.51 +5.30 cent to $4.71 billion from $5.09 billion in share, from $1.88 billion, or $3.74 a share, in 2008. Worldwide sales of footwear, the com- the previous year. Sales grew 2.9 percent to pany’s largest business, slid 3 percent, to $19.18 billion from $18.63 billion. Apparel 9.99 9.57 Chico’s (CHS) - 6549046 9.96 +5.17 $2.58 billion. Apparel sales were $1.17 bil- sales inched up 0.2 percent to $5.24 billion lion during the period, a 16 percent fall. and accounted for 31.5 percent of the total. 22.06 20.94 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 10.7 2579971 21.98 +5.17

Hartmarx Auction Enters Day 2 10 Worst Performers The auction for the assets of at between $4.5 million and $6 million. bankrupt Hartmarx Corp. is expected to If such a deal were to be struck, the DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt stretch into a second day today with the result could be a reduction of the $128.4 possibility of the small Christopher Blue million Hartmarx stalking horse bid from High Low Last %Change division being sold separately to one of London-based Emerisque and its invest- the bidders, sources familiar with the ment partner, SKNL. Additionally, Mistral process said. Capital Management, originally interest- 5.00 3.75 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 650 5.00 -9.09 Christopher Blue represents ed in Christopher Blue, Monarchy and Hartmarx’s denim business and sources Exclusively Misook, would have to adjust 10.56 9.48 Home Shopping Network (HSNI) - 365974 9.48 -8.85 believe it could be sold to Western Glove its bid to go after Monarchy and Misook. Works, based in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Sources also said that bidding for 16.18 14.26 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 20282 14.62 -5.68 The Canadian firm no longer manufac- Hartmarx’s two flagship men’s brands, tures Victoria Beckham’s dVb line, but Hart Schaffner Marx and Hickey Freeman, has licensed its Jag line to Christopher was heating up between Emerisque and a 7.90 7.29 Finish Line (FINL) 110.0 779482 7.36 -4.42 Blue for six years. Sources pegged the group led by designer Joseph Abboud. value of the Christopher Blue business — Vicki M. Young 0.48 0.48 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 2999 0.48 -4.00 2.40 2.23 Delia’s (DLIA) 4.2 79708 2.24 -3.86 Safilo Preps for Potential Bidder 5.66 5.31 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 594978 5.36 -3.60 MILAN — Safilo Group SpA said it ex- eyewear group’s majority shareholder, pects to breach its debt covenants and Only 3T SpA, is in talks with at least 10.21 9.47 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 13.6 5362 9.47 -3.56 is negotiating with banks to postpone a two private equity bidders, believed to loan payment due later this month, as be Bain Capital and PAI, to ease Safilo’s 21.33 19.32 G&K (GKSR) - 163370 19.84 -3.03 talks continue with potential suitors. debts amid declining demand. As of Safilo chief executive officer Roberto March 31, Safilo had net debts of 617.7 3.23 3.05 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 12.2 1415670 3.08 -2.84 Vedovotto had hoped to secure a sale million euros, or $861.2 million at cur- before the summer. rent exchange. The Tabacchi family con- * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on “In this context, considering the pos- trols 39.9 percent of Safilo via Only 3T. the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss sible misalignment of the results at 30th Also on Thursday, Standard & Poor’s francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. June 2009, compared to the financial Ratings Services downgraded Safilo’s covenants of the existing senior loan, corporate credit rating to “CC,” sig- the company has also begun negotiations nifying “highly vulnerable to nonpay- with the financing banks in order to re- ment,” from “CCC-plus,” while Moody’s Fed’s Outlook Helps Lift Retail Stocks quest a waiver with reference to such Investors Service lowered its rating on covenants, as well as the postponement Safilo to “Caa2,” meaning “very high By Evan Clark said it saw “some risk that inflation could of a payment due on 30th June 2009,” credit risk,” from “B3.” persist for a time below rates that best fos- Safilo stated late Tuesday. The Italian — Andrew Roberts Retail shares logged their ter economic growth and price stability.” first gain of the week Wednesday, ad- The picture is somewhat rosier abroad. vancing 0.7 percent after the Federal The Organization for Economic Co- Reserve said the pace of the recession operation and Development boosted its Jones Ups Stake in GRI to 25% was slowing. growth outlook for China and India for The S&P Retail Index increased 2009 and 2010, but continues to expect U.S. Jones Apparel Group boosted continues to respond positively to our 2.11 points to 311.34, as the Dow Jones and other rich nations to post declines this its stake in GRI Group, spending $15 footwear and accessory brands.” Industrial Average dipped 0.3 percent, or year and rebound weakly in 2010. million for a 15 percent interest in the Last year, Jones said rising incomes 23.05 points, to close at 8,299.86. Gainers “A recovery already appears to be in Hong Kong-based retail distribution and economic development were support- included Stein Mart Inc., up 12.7 percent motion in most non-OECD countries,” said group and betting Asia will remain “a ing rapid consumption growth in China. to $7.82; Chico’s FAS Inc., 5.2 percent to Jørgen Elmeskov, acting chief OECD econ- high growth region.” “While Asia has been impacted by the $9.96; Macy’s Inc., 4.6 percent to $11.39, omist. “This is particularly so in China, Jones shelled out $20.2 million for 10 worldwide recessionary environment, and Nordstrom Inc., 4.4 percent to $19.08. against the background of substantial percent of GRI last June and now owns this continues to be the case and under- “Household spending has shown further monetary and especially fiscal stimuli.” 25 percent of the company, which holds scores our decision to expand our pres- signs of stabilizing but remains constrained The OECD said China’s economy the exclusive license for Jones’ Nine ence in this region and increase our in- by ongoing job losses, lower housing wealth would grow 7.7 percent this year and 9.3 West, Anne Klein New York, AK Anne vestment in GRI,” Card said Wednesday. and tight credit,” said the central bank’s percent in 2010, substantially faster than Klein, Easy Spirit, Enzo Angiolini and The privately held GRI has more Federal Open Market Committee, led by the respective 6.3 percent and 8.5 percent Joan & David brands in Asia. than 600 points of sale, including fran- chairman Ben Bernanke. forecasts made in March. “We distribute our products through chisees, in 12 Asian countries. The The bank kept its target range for the But the Paris-based OECD expects international partners in 65 countries firm also distributes brands such as benchmark federal funds interest rate at 0 U.S. economic activity to fall 2.8 percent worldwide,” said Wesley Card, Jones’ Pringle of Scotland, Steve Madden and percent to 0.25 percent. The committee also this year, a smaller decline than the 4 president and chief executive officer. the Liz Claiborne Inc.-owned Lucky signaled that it was not as concerned about percent it forecast in March, and grow “We believe that Asia remains a high Brand Jeans. deflation as it had been by not alluding to only 0.9 percent in 2010. growth region and the Asian consumer — E.C. it in its statement. In April, the committee — With contributions from John Zarocostas WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 15 WWD.COM

A look from Brooklyn Flea Vintage Brooklyn Flea Gets Spot at Madewell and Madewell. The Brooklyn Flea has a sum- Guerra said of The Flea, which typi- To give manhattanites at Thursday’s mer share at madewell’s stores in cally has 150 vendors in Fort Greene on opening-night party a taste of the food manhattan and east hampton. saturdays and 110 underneath the Brooklyn vendors often camped out at the flea eager to give its shoppers an assort- Bridge on sundays. “It’s such a new york market, madewell will serve hors ment of affordable vintage pieces that thing and such a summer thing.” d’oeuvres prepared by red hook food complement madewell jeans and save straw hats, crocheted dresses, sun- vendors, nunu Chocolates and salvatore them the trek to Brooklyn, madewell glasses, tops and bags will be among Bklyn. another resource from The Flea, is setting up outposts in those two bou- the vintage pieces sold in the madewell Brooklyn Brew shop, will be serving up tiques. regulars on saturdays at “The stores. By and large, the flea market the “madewell microbrew,” which will be Flea” in Fort Greene, madewell’s mar- goods will retail for less than $100 and made specifically for the bash. keting director, Gigi Guerra, and stylist everything is meant to be mixed with The collaboration — the most high- lisa schulner will start sharing their the madewell collection, especially its profile one to date for the popular week- vintage finds with madewell shoppers forthcoming more affordable 37s jeans. end hangout — may be extended beyond on Thursday. They hope The Flea’s indie Due in stores next month, 37s — named labor Day if the concept takes off, said spirit will appeal to madewell’s con- for 1937, the year madewell was founded Flea co-founder eric Demby. “We’re try- sumers, and are spreading the word via as a family-owned business — ing to keep things fresh and interesting. e-mails, madewell’s Facebook page and will retail for $59.50. In 2006, the J. Crew We just want people to know we’re not a word of mouth. Group relaunched madewell and opened tube socks kind of flea market,” he said. “It operates as a real community,” the first madewell store. — Rosemary Feitelberg

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Warehouse Space Salesperson Available Immediately 1-2 years experience in Menswear Tex- Opportunity to share an amazing ware- tile Industry. Great Opportunity- house. Short term or long term flexi- Salary+Bonus. Call 646-552-5446 ask Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. bility. Immaculate, clean, dry, well lit for Francesca. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. building, concrete slab, with 26’ceiling. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Call CLOTHES-OUT: Heated, alarmed, video surveillance Min. 3 years sales exp. selling to dept. (937) 898-2975 and vertical racking .Will lease up to & specialty stores for NY office of SALES PERSON 40,000sq.ft (125,000 sf total) with China-based junior, young contemporary Sportswear Co (Junior & Junior Plus/ exclusive use of up to 7 private bay Ladies Denim Designer & missy manufacturer. OEM/ODM & Missy) doing Dresses, Blouses, Skirts doors. Centrally located Secaucus, NJ NY based Company seeks individual with min 5 yrs experience in Denim private label. $30K base plus commission. & Jackets (Carrying Inventory) Seeks 3 minutes from NJTP 15X and market. Must have detailed knowledge of fabric and washes. Responsi- Email resume to Energetic Sales person w/ est’d contacts Secaucus Train station (one stop to [email protected] w/ department stores & off price retailers Penn Station) Convenient to Lincoln bilities include interpreting current trends in denim, executing develop- & South American accounts w/ min 7-10 Spaces years experience in the Junior market and Holland Tunnels. Special logistics ment packages, and sketching. Position requires strong communication services can also be provided. skills and frequent overseas travel. Please forward resumes to: and Missy and Plus --Wovens Only. (No brokers) Please call 201-920-9241. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Excellent opportunity to Excel. Terms COMMERCIAL [email protected] Premier Accessories Company seeks Negotiable. Fax or email: 212-398-2579 Urban Account Executive. Must have [email protected] REAL ESTATE exp with Urban brands such as RocaWear, Sean Jean, etc. Excellent comm. and DESIGNER negotiating skills. We offer comp salary SALES REP Sportswear Company (Junior, Missy & PATTERNMAKER High-end BRIDAL+COUTURE company and benefits. If interested, please send Seeking exp’d SALES REP in all Territo- Junior Plus) seeks a sweater Designer resume to: [email protected] ries for Gridlock Denim a premium having complete knowledge of Sweater/ seeking PATTERNMAKER for gowns and evening wear. Expertise in CORSET denim line that is growing. Must have Sweater Dresses… Knowledge of specs contacts with department stores and is a must. Min experience 5-7 Years. and BONING a must. Bi-lingual a+. (Chinese/ Spanish) E-mail resume to: Experienced Sales Leader boutiques. Please send resumes to: Fax or email: 212-398-2579 310-470-9650 or email: [email protected] [email protected] Established global knitwear manufac- Showrooms & Lofts turer seeks an experienced sales lead- [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS er with retail and wholesale experi- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ence. Their past experience should be ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 with a national specialty store or a fine PRODUCTIONS department store. This person should All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. have a good background and under- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. standing in sweaters and knits. Our company allows self motivated people to run their business with the support To subscribe, visit our website and infrastructure to be extremely suc- 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cessful. Our design and sales office is www.wwd.com/subscribenow Menswear Showrooms PRODUCTIONS in Midtown Manhattan. Great atmos- or call 800.289.0273 D. Levy Adams & Co. #212-679-5500 Full service shop to the trade. phere. Salary plus incentive. Send Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. resume to: [email protected]

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www.verabradley.com 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 25, 2009 WWD.COM

NORMALLY, Julie White is a very Company this fall. fast talker. It’s a quality that has “I think she is the Alan Rickman of American served the actress well in the modern stage actresses,” says Rebeck, who is also cowriting American parts that tend to be her an HBO project “Women’s Studies” in which White bread and butter, like her Tony- would star. “I find it tremendously moving to watch winning turn as a Machiavellian movie her pick herself up. Unfortunately, that does mean agent in “The Little Dog Laughed” or a I have to knock her down a lot. Half of my job Play Time romantically challenged woman in “Bad Dates.” But description is: Make Julie White suffer.” in her current New York Shakespeare debut in the With her lean frame and head of wild curls, Julie White Public Theater’s “Twelfth Night,” apparently slow and White has been cutting a spry figure across New York steady wins the race. floorboards since her theatrical debut in Playwrights “They’re always giving me notes saying I have Horizons’ “Lucky Stiff.” to slow down,” says White, between bites of a post- “I’ve probably done a play every year for the last rehearsal egg salad sandwich. “But I like to talk 30 years,” says the actress, 48. “Sometimes two.” fast — it’s like, keep up, right?” An Austin native, White was born in San Diego As Maria in “Twelfth Night,” which opens this where her Naval dentist father was then stationed. evening at the Delacorte Theater, White plays a Though she spent her childhood performing made-up mischievous servant to Audra McDonald’s Olivia, in shows with her siblings and cousins (one memorable mourning for her recently deceased father and brother. casting was as Tarzan’s dog), she first fell for acting In a household cloaked (often literally) in black in third grade when an ulcer kept her home from sadness, White’s Maria serves as an effervescent jolt, a school watching musicals on TV.

She sees what’s in front of her and deals with it and plays“ with it. She just befriends the whole audience every time she walks on.­ ” — Jay O. Sanders, “Twelfth Night” co-star

task in which the actress clearly revels. “I saw three weeks worth of MGM musicals and “I wanted to make her sort of like Tigger,” says was like, ‘Well, sign me up. How do I get to be one of White, who herself combines a limitless energy with these people?’” she recalls. the down-home charm of her native Texas. “She She started doing shows in high school and really wants to bust out from under those black branching out to the Austin theater scene before aprons and veils. She is like the spirit of anarchy, moving to New York to attend Fordham. which is fun to play.” White lives in Brooklyn (an avid golfer, she has a It is also a rather new experience, as White hasn’t putting green on her roof). And though she has made performed Shakespeare in 15 years. forays into other arenas with a recurring role on ABC’s “I’m not used to a dead playwright,” she remarks “Grace Under Fire” and as Shia LaBeouf’s mother in drily. Michael Bay’s second “Transformers” film, out this But as Jay O. Sanders, who co-stars as White’s week, theater — specifically new works — remains onstage love interest Sir Toby Belch, observes, she is her preferred medium. a quick adapter, whether the obstacle is the Bard’s “I feel like I’m used more fully as an actor prose or the Delacorte’s open-air challenges. on stage. We’re out there, no one can cut your “She sees what’s in front of her and deals with performance, no one can edit it,” she explains. “You it and plays with it. She just befriends the whole feel like you have a job, like you’re actually doing audience every time she walks on,” he says. something. A lot of times on a movie, you spend a Playwright has collaborated great deal of time sitting around. And you just feel with White countless times, including the upcoming like, ‘Really? Did I work today?’”

tim jenkins john aquino; bhogal by white photo by “The Understudy” with the Roundabout Theatre — Vanessa Lawrence EYE SCOOP Girl of Summer: Ravinder Bhogal Thank goodness Brooke Astor isn’t around to witness Ravinder Bhogal, 30, who has just penned the minute dissection of her life going on at Manhattan Criminal her first cookbook, “Cook in Boots,” (HarperCollins), Court during the trial of her son, Anthony Marshall. The society believes women should succumb to their desires — doyenne, who cared so much about appearances that she dressed especially when they involve carbohydrates, chocolate, for dinner even when dining alone, would be horrified by the and shoes. Bhogal was working as a beauty writer for personal details now being picked over in public. the mass-market British fashion weekly Look when she Tuesday brought testimony from her physician of 30 years, Dr. beat 8,000 other hopefuls in a cooking competition on R.A. Rees Pritchett, a bow tie-wearing gent who also treated Annette Gordon Ramsay’s TV show “The F Word.” She has since de la Renta and Leona Helmsley. Pritchett reviewed a decade’s presented documentaries for BBC radio and television worth of medical records on the stand, revealing that Astor’s old network and was crowned “the next Fanny Craddock” by age was no walk in the park. Ramsay, who was referring to the Fifties British television At age 93, Astor insisted she was “still a young girl,” the cook and culinary legend. internist noted. “Patient resents any disability.” She repeatedly rejected recommendations to have an around- SPICE ROUTE: Many of the book’s recipes draw on the-clock aide, to use Depends and to slow down her social Bhogal’s varied background. Her family is originally schedule (“She was still going out six nights a week, instead of from the Punjab region of India, and in the Fifties seven,” said Pritchett). her grandfather moved to Kenya, where she was The tiny, 105-pound grand dame did acquiesce to an born. When she was seven, the family moved to Kent, of medication, including Paxil, Zoloft and Lexapro for depression; in southeastern England. As a result, British, Far Daypro and epidural steroid injections for sciatica; Procrit for Eastern, Indian and East African influences all infuse anemia; Antivert for vertigo; the stimulants Dexedrine and her cooking, though one of her greatest inspirations Concerta, and the barbiturate Butisol, which she took for many remains the freshness of the food in Kenya. “My years. “I tried to get her off it, but she liked it,” said Pritchett, who grandfather had an allotment and we had chickens in also explained Astor underwent radiation several times for cancer the garden. The food in Kenya is so rich and juicy.” on her leg and face, fractured her hands and wrists and suffered from an oesophageal swallowing disorder that resulted in recurring SOME LIKE IT HOT: When she was five, Bhogal’s mother bouts of pneumonia. told her the only way to snare a husband was to become There was one medication whose significance she may not a masterful cook, but her eleventh chapter, “Fork me, have understood: Aricept, meant to combat the Alzheimer’s Astor Spoon me: The food of love and rude food,” must surely was never informed she had. have made the more traditional members of her Indian “I feel awful,” complained the frustrated Astor to her family blush. “For a new boyfriend I’d cook anything you doctor starting in the mid-Nineties, who sent her to a string of could pick up with your fingers. Such as the asparagus cognitive specialists. Each one was sent packing after they asked kisses wrapped in Parma ham or roasted paprika quails “offensive” questions about her memory, Pritchett said. with Romesco sauce,” says Bhogal. “Quails are such tiny Marshall, too, wrote letters explaining his mother’s decline. little birds that one needs to down forks and knives and When she made slips, such as forgetting his birthday, she “tried to rip away at the flesh. It’s sexy eating.” cover it up,” he said. She was also “paranoid that things are being stolen from her” — somewhat ironic given the fact that Marshall PRET-A-PORTEA: As the book’s title suggests, Bhogal is also obsessed with killer heels, and counts Marni and is now being charged with grand larceny. Nicholas Kirkwood among her favorites. And when the fashion-savvy chef isn’t browsing the shoe department The 85-year-old Marshall has his own share of woes: He at Liberty or writing — she’s already at work on her second cookbook, featuring “more indulgent food” ­— she underwent heart surgery last fall, suffered a minor stroke two loves taking time for afternoon tea. “One of my favorite dishes is pudding made of scones, raspberry jam and weeks ago and slipped recently while walking on his treadmill, custard. But when I stopped being a journalist, so too did my invitations to tea at the Wolseley,” she says, resulting in a concussion and a gashed left hand. referring to the popular, all-day brasserie on Piccadilly. Pritchett’s testimony continues today. — Louise Bartlett — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz