2 | Monday, April 19, 2021 HONG KONG EDITION | CHINA DAILY PAGE TWO Cafes: Wave of changes on the way
From page 1 “The rapid expansion of Luckin Coffee brought much capital to the In 1917, the number of cafes surged market and made consumers pay in Shanghai following the start of the attention to the industry. Its afforda October Revolution in Russia. Many ble prices have attracted many peo Russians who fled to the city lived on ple who used to drink milk tea.” Xiafei Road — known today as Huai Local brands such as Manner, hai Road — where they opened Seesaw and M Stand have also won numerous cafes and restaurants. the hearts of coffee drinkers with Shanghai was named the city with specialty offerings. the most coffee shops globally by a Manner, which made its debut in report published by The Rising Lab, 2015 and now has 102 stores in a research arm of Shanghai media Shanghai, is among the most popu group Yicai, during the opening of lar local cafes due to its affordabili the first Shanghai Coffee Culture ty and focus on sustainability. Week, which ended on April 11. Customers who bring their own According to the shopping plat cups receive a 5 yuan (76 cents) dis form MeituanDianping, the city is count for each order. home to 6,913 cafes, the most in the The company recently made world. This figure excludes coffee headlines after securing $1.3 billion Clockwise from top left: Customers watch baristas at work in a Starbucks shop on Nanjing West Road, Shanghai; drinks are prepared at an services offered by convenience (8.5 billion yuan) in Series A funding outlet in Shanghai. PHOTOS BY GAO ERQIANG / CHINA DAILY A barista pours coffee in Shanghai. XING YI / CHINA DAILY Hinichijou Coffee, also known as Bear stores and fast food restaurants. — the level of investment in a start Paw Cafe, has gone viral among netizens. PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY Chen Sijie, manager of market con up that follows initial seed capital. sultancy group CBN, said on March 29 during the opening ceremony for Earning trust established food company Qiaojia coffee is a reflection of local resi TIMELINE Shanghai Coffee Culture Week: Han Yulong, founder of Manner shan, is pairing its coffee with dents’ upgraded consumption. “Shanghai is now the most important Coffee, said, “We came to Shanghai traditional dim sum. Its bestselling Unlike restaurants, a coffee shop is 1844: First o cial consumer market in China’s coffee to make coffee and see if good coffee coffee is handbrewed and made more for leisure.” record of co ee industry, as well as a place of innova had a chance of surviving in the from rare Guixia beans. Industry experts have noted that beans arriving in tion in the industry.” metropolis. Convenience stores such as Fami ecommerce could play a significant Shanghai The massive presence of Star “We wanted to bring highquality ly Mart, Lawson and 7Eleven have role in shaping the future of coffee bucks, which entered the Chinese coffee to the Chinese and make Man also jumped on the bandwagon by in Shanghai. 1876: Co ee market in 1999, has largely contrib ner a brand worthy of their trust.” introducing coffee areas and charg Wang Zhucen, founder of indus mentioned in uted to Shanghai becoming the Although chains such as Star ing as little as 10 yuan for a cup of try group Jasblu Coffee, said about advertisement in world’s coffee capital. The United bucks appear to dominate, inde fresh coffee. 70 percent of restaurants, including Shun Pao newspaper States chain has a record 839 stores pendent cafes comprise the The Shanghai Museum even cafes, will transform themselves Proportion of chain co ee shops (Unit: percent) 1886: Hongkou in the city. majority of the market, accounting turned to the increasing populari into smart establishments support Cafe opens – the first Canadian brand Tim Hortons, for nearly 56 percent of the coffee ty of coffee to promote itself by ed by independent ordering, self specialized co ee which only entered China in 2019, shops in Shanghai. holding an event at which a special service, big data and artificial outlet in Shanghai has already opened more than 100 Hinichijou cafe, which employs printer reproduced the institu intelligence. stores in Shanghai. people with disabilities, has been tion’s logo on latte foam, along “It has been less than two years 1920: Hongkou Domestic chains such as Luckin among the most popular. with images of relics. and (express retail service) Star district and the area Coffee have also played a key role in Also known as Bear Paw Cafe, it Innovative market players have bucks Now already accounts for 30 between Hengshan driving up the numbers. Founded in went viral among netizens after its added novel flavors to their coffee. percent of overall sales. Meanwhile, Road and Fuxing Road 2017, it is now the secondlargest cof first store opened on Yongkang For example, local brand Yongpu takeouts account for 15 percent of in Shanghai become fee chain in Shanghai, with 499 Road on Dec 3. Coffee collaborated with Filipino Seesaw’s total orders and Yongpu home to French and stores. It runs 4,507 directsale Wang Haiqing, cofounder of the food producer Oishi to create salted Coffee only sells online. This is a sign Russian operated stores in China, the most of any cafe, said that following this success, eggflavored coffee. of the direction the coffee market is cafes brand, foreign or domestic. the company expects to open up to Lin TungYuan, winner of the first taking,” Wang said. Shanghai Hou Yongpu, founder of Yongpu 100 stores nationwide within a year, Taiwan Barista Championship in “With increased labor costs, intel Top five roads in Shanghai with the most co ee stores: 1948: boasts nearly 500 Coffee, said: “When a market gets with more than half the employees 2004 and also an adviser for Shang ligent selfservice coffee machines Huaihai Middle Road (49), Nanjing West Road (41), cafes busy, there must be a detonator. In being people with disabilities. hai Coffee Culture Week, said: “The and ordering systems will become Wenhui Road (37), Yuyuan Road (34), Fuxing Middle Road (32). China, it was Luckin Coffee. Qiao Coffee, a subsidiary of long growing number of places selling essential in the future.” Source: The Rising Lab MUKESH MOHANAN / CHINA DAILY
Talented baristas showcase their competitive skills Shanghai outlets find winning blend
By XING YI in Shanghai young people interested in becom [email protected] ing baristas, Zhang said. Starbucks Reserve Roastery end of 2019, Qiao Coffee is a good Although the exact number of Launched in 2017, this 2,700 example of the beverage blending Pan Enqi became a little nervous The rooster candy is my fond coffee shops in China is hard to squaremeter store in Jing’an dis with local culture. after accidentally spilling a cup of determine, Starbucks alone has trict is located at 789 Nanjing West Apart from its traditional dim sum food dye just before the start of his childhood memory, and I will opened more than 4,800 outlets Road. It hosted the media confer fare, including shaomai, mung bean performance in the China final of present the design on my latte art. nationwide since 1999, accounting ence for the Shanghai Coffee Cul cake and steamed buns, the store the World Latte Art Champion for 15 percent of its stores globally. ture Week, which ran from March 29 sells various types of coffee such as ship, which involved making four Pan Enqi, barista in Shanghai Canadian chain Tim Hortons said to April 11. cold brew, flat white and sweet fer cups of caffe latte. it aimed to open 1,500 coffee shops Besides serving classic coffee, mented rice latte. But the 26yearold quickly in 10 years when it entered the creative drinks and more than 80 The first Qiao Coffee outlet is calmed himself and rushed back to Chinese market in 2019. kinds of freshly baked bread, des located in the Huaihai Building. The get a new cup, before returning to Domestic boutique coffee chains serts and pizzas, it also operates as company opened a second branch the stage. such as Seesaw and Manner have a factory. on the West Bund last year. Throwing candies featuring a also started to expand after receiv The only one of its kind nation rooster design to the audience, he ing investment worth millions of wide, it roasts nearly 2,000 metric Hinichijou Coffee said, “Today, I want to share with yuan in recent years. tons of coffee beans annually. Cus Also known as the Bear Paw Cafe, you the inspiration for my creation. Chen Junheng, a veteran coffee tomers can view the entire process, this establishment has no seats or “The rooster candy is my fond maker and judge for many compe and the beans are packaged and tables and its storefront comprises childhood memory, and I will titions, including World Coffee delivered to other flagship Starbucks nothing more than a gray wall with a present the design on my latte art.” Events, said more global coffee stores in China. hole, through which a furry bear paw As he spoke, Pan made two cups contests have been introduced to interacts with customers by serving of espresso, drawing a rooster China in the past decade, provid COFE+ Robot Coffee Kiosk them coffee, patting them and pos design with steamed milk. He used ing a good platform for profession A robot coffee kiosk displayed at ing for photos. the dye to color the crest in just als to learn the industry’s latest the recent 30th Shanghai Interna The store opened on Yongkang four minutes. trends and techniques. tional Hospitality Equipment and Road on Dec 3 — International Day of In the next four minutes, he “I attend at least two competi Foodservice Expo attracted visitors’ People with Disabilities — and half its made another two cups of latte tions as a judge every month,” attention and provided new possibili employees have disabilities. with a cartoon bear design, pre Chen said. ties for the coffee industry. Coffee costs 20 yuan a cup and is senting his work to the judges. “The threshold for becoming a Debuting in Shanghai in 2019, made by baristas, some of whom Pan was one of 180 contestants barista is not that high. Anyone about 10 robot kiosks have been have been crowned coffee brewing from across the country appearing who is interested can join a coffee launched across the city at shop champions at the National Profes at the China final, held in Shang shop and learn the basics, but ping malls, office buildings, sub sional Competition for People with hai from March 29 to April 1. advancing depends on individual way stations and industrial parks. Disabilities. Amid expansion by large coffee ability. We want more people to Intelligent and hightemperature chains such as Starbucks in the Pan Enqi makes a cup of caffe latte at the China final of the World learn how to appreciate artisan cof disinfection is used to avoid bacteria M Stand past two decades, artisan coffee, or Latte Art Championship in Shanghai. SU XINYI / FOR CHINA DAILY fee, and competitions will help pro and dust, and automatic operation A wellknown specialty coffee in craft coffee, which focuses on the mote this culture.” and cleaning mean the kiosks can Shanghai, M Stand, which comes in finer details of coffeemaking, is Li Haoyan, a contestant from operate day and night. edible cups made from oatmeal on the rise in Shanghai, calling for World Coffee Events was first “There is a clear trend that Chi Guangzhou, said, “It’s amazing to Each kiosk occupies less than 2.5 cookies, operates some 20 stores skillful baristas such as Pan. staged in 2003 in conjunction with nese contestants are becoming see brilliant baristas from across square meters and provides two in Shanghai, where it launched in According to a report on coffee Hotelex Shanghai, an annual hos more sophisticated in their choice the country coming together in kinds of coffee beans and cup sizes, 2017. consumption in Shanghai pub pitality exhibition organized by of coffee beans and brewing tech Shanghai. with each cup of coffee costing from M Stand desserts are also popu lished by business media group Sinoexpo Informa Markets in niques. The competition has taken “Last year, I attended a month 9.90 yuan to 15 yuan ($1.5 to $2.10). lar, especially its cement cheese Yicai, more than half the coffee Shanghai. the profession to a higher level in long training course in Shanghai, In addition to fresh coffee, there cake, which resembles a piece of shops in the city are considered Zhang Haoran, senior event China,” she said. and found the city has many styl are up to 50 other beverages to cement. boutique cafes, including inde manager at the exhibition compa “In 2019, the China champion ish cafes that we can learn from.” choose from, including Western milk The company has received more pendent cafes, small chain brands ny, who is responsible for the Chi Du Jianing won the World Brew As for Pan, the coffee latte artist, tea, Japanese Matcha (green tea), than 100 million yuan in Series A and artisan coffee retailers such as na championship, said, “In 2003, ers Cup.” he failed in his attempt to become and hot chocolate. funding and plans to open a total of Peet’s Coffee and Arabica. Big only a few dozen people took part The rising number of cafes and China champion. 80 to 100 stores in Shanghai, Beijing, chains such as Starbucks and Cos in the competition and it had just coffee companies in firsttier cities “Of course I regret this and am Qiao Coffee Guangzhou and Shenzhen, Guang ta comprise only 35 percent of the one category in China, but now such as Shanghai, Beijing and disappointed, but it makes me Launched by local timehonored dong province, this year. local market. more than 12,000 baristas take Guangzhou, capital of Guangdong even more eager for the next com food company Qiaojiashan at the HE QI The China championship of the part in trials we hold nationwide. province, is also attracting more petition season to begin,” he said.