EN ROUTE

For a stopover in your journey, look no further than these national parks and nature reserves. Each allows you to take a breather when you’re on the road and, what’s more, there’s Break time! ample reason to dwell longer.

Big, bovine and boring? Not quite. Africa’s largest antelope, the eland, is a powerhouse of surprises. By Andreas Späth incredible

PERFECT PAUSE Augrabies Falls

SCOTT RAMSAY SCOTT National Park is a refreshing place 36 WILD WINTER 2013 www.wildcard.co.za to overnight. www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2013 WILD XX EN ROUTE ROMI BOOM ROMI In transit to Kgalagadi or Richtersveld Transfrontier Parks Driving along the Garden Route Explore Gou­ kamma River Augrabies Falls National Park or Groenvlei in Goukamma Nature Reserve the stable sit-in This national park would not exist were epicentre is wonderful, of course, but the canoes. A mere 15 km west of Knysna you’re in stretch along a gorgeous beach and coastline it not for the Augrabies Falls, where the silent remainder of the park is special in its for a multi-faceted surprise. You will love of 14 km. The adjacent Marine Protected mighty Orange River tumbles through a own right. The haunting lunar landscape the dense milkwoods, yellowwoods and Area extends seawards for 1,8 km, protect- narrow bottleneck before falling 56 m into is punctuated by the silhouettes of klip- candlewoods in the coastal forest of Gou- ing numerous marine species. Then there’s an eerie canyon. The name is a derivation springers and quiver trees. The fauna and kamma Nature Reserve, with some of the the Goukamma River and estuary, and the of the Nama word “Aukoerebis” which flora of this riverine desert ecosystem war- highest vegetated dunes in . unique Groenvlei Lake which has no in- means ‘place of great noise’. The noisy rant days of exploration. The coastal and extensive dunefields flowing river and no link to the sea.

After the drive, Spend the night immense precipice. They’re an easy walk from Spend the night one hour before sunset stretch your legs at the viewpoint There are 59 chalets and cottages as well the rest camp, so you don’t even have to get Mvubu Bushcamp cottage in the milkwood Take the pontoon across the river and overlooking the as 40 campsites in the rest camp, so there’s back in your car. If you’re lucky and the river forest on the shores of Groenvlei lake has hike the 6,5-km Bush Pig Trail through the Augrabies Falls. something for everyone. Importantly, all is in flood, you’ll be in for a once-in-a-lifetime spectacular views and sleeps four. On the coastal milkwood forest and along the jeep of the accommodation is air conditioned, experience, but the falls are spectacular all Buffalo Bay side of Goukamma, three track. If you have about three hours, a circu- the campsites are shaded and there are no year round, especially in the evening. four-bed cottages, with modern décor and lar route will link you up with the coast and fewer than three swimming pools. It does facilities, overlook the river and estuary. You you can climb up one of the dunes, perhaps get very hot in this part of the world! Braai Kick start your day will have a private lapa with your own braai getting lucky with a humpbacked dolphin facilities abound, but if you don’t have the Augrabies is a photographer’s paradise. facilities and, for chilly nights, there’s an sighting. You return to your chalet along energy to light a fire, head for the fully li- The falls themselves are the most obvious indoor fireplace. Otter’s Rest Lodge, which the beach, wading hip-high through the censed restaurant. attraction, but other lesser-known parts of sleeps four, and Fish Eagle Loft, which sleeps river mouth. If time is of the essence, and the park are sometimes more photogenic. two, both offer stylish accommodation with provided the tide is out, consider stretching Special sightings Get up early and drive to Moon Rock, a river and sea views. those legs with some rock-pooling. The park’s huge dassie population supports a huge dome-shaped hill which affords great BOOKINGS number of Verreaux’s eagle pairs which nest views of the park from its summit. You’ll BOOKINGS Special sightings Kick start your day SANParks central CapeNature central reservations near the Ararat and Oranjekom viewpoints. find plenty to shoot here. From soulful reservations There’s a cormorant roost at the point at Early mornings are usually windstill on the 012-428-9111 You may even see them on the hunt. landscapes to endearing close-ups of das- 021-483-0190 Buffalo Bay. Swift and sandwich terns river. With whisps of steam rising from the www.sanparks.org sies and colourful lizards, this park really www..co.za abound and, if you look carefully, you will water, this is the perfect time to go rowing one hour before sunset has it all. If you have the time, drive on to sometimes spot Arctic and roseate terns. and paddle alongside spur-winged and You absolutely have to see the falls, and do it Ararat viewpoint to enjoy and photograph Two nights before our stay, at about 21h00, Egyptian geese. Engage in a spot of birding as soon after arrival as possible. After a long the gorge from above. Keep an eye out for a honeybadger was seen crossing the N2. and look out for the three kinds of kingfishers day’s drive there’s no tonic quite like the sight the nesting Verreaux’s eagles and the shy Please drive carefully, since the animals fol- that occur here: malachite, giant and brown-

of millions of litres of water cascading over an Cape clawless otter. – Nick Dall KARIN SCHERMBRUCKER low a corridor into the pine forests. hooded. – Romi Boom >

38 WILD WINTER 2013 www.wildcard.co.za WINTER 2013 WILD 39 en route

The stylish wooden chalets are reason enough to break your journey.

For N2 breaks between and the Garden Route The main rest Travelling North/South on the N1 camp is only 12 km from the N1, but you may as well be on This park doesn’t have any of the Big Five, was established in 1931 to protect the 30 another planet. The Karoo, an endless landscape of koppies Beaufort West, is by far the best place to stay which allows families to explore it on foot bontebok that remained in the wild and is and scrub which has to be driven through? between Laingsburg and Bloemfontein. without a guide, appreciating the smaller now home to a steady population of around Not so. Take the time to get to know it and The park boasts unparalleled sunsets and Bontebok are things as they go. The smallest of the na- 160 of its namesake, with any surplus being you’ll be amazed at the variety, colour and incredible stars, as well as fascinating fossils frequently seen tional parks in South Africa, it is proof that used to repopulate other parks and wilder- originality that lie beneath the surface. and an ecosystem which is quite unlike any- grazing in the size doesn’t matter. Bontebok National Park ness areas. The Karoo National Park, situated outside thing else in the country. campsite.

Spend the night enough, you could have a refreshing swim Spend the night seemed drab in the heat of the day come The 10 chalets were recently refurbished and after your day’s drive, but otherwise it’s great Accommodation in the Cape Dutch cottages alive in a symphony of ochre, rose and gold. all feature a snazzy open-plan design, won- for birdwatching and fishing. Carp, bass and includes breakfast in the restaurant. The Take a drive into the game area to find some derful viewing decks and undercover braai bluegill are all found in the river. Too exhausted six family cottages have two bedrooms and animals: , black rhino or even lions facilities. They sleep two people, and two have for any of that? Well then pack deck chairs, sleep up to six people, while the other 29 if you’re lucky. Or simply stop the car and, been fully adapted for people with special snacks and drinks, sit back and take in the units sleep between two and four people. with the engine off and the windows rolled needs. Campers and caravanners can stay serenity. The kids can paddle in the shallows The campsite is a verdant contrast to the down, take in the scenery: the colours, the near the chalets at the top of the hill, but the while you unwind. greys and browns of the Karoo. Its 24 stands, sounds, the smells and the solitude. This is real gem is the riverside camping area. This each with power, are secluded from one an- the Karoo. section often floods in winter, but if at all pos- Kick start your day other. There’s a communal kitchen, ablutions sible pitch your tent right on the river. There are two great short walks which start and laundromat. Kick start your day and end in the rest camp. The shorter of these The area in and around the rest camp is Special sightings is the Acacia Trail, which at only 1,6 km can BOOKINGS Special sightings home to some of the best birding in the BOOKINGS SANParks SANParks central central reservations Hopefully you’ll see bontebok grazing in the be completed in under half an hour if you reservations In 2010, a small population of lions was park. Keep an eye out for barbets, bulbuls, 012-428-9111 campsite. Another fixture is the giant tortoise walk briskly. Brisk walking isn’t the idea, 012-428-9111 introduced. They have settled in extremely robins and larks. If you’re into waterbirds, www.sanparks.org that does its bit to mow the lawn. though; rather take the whole family and re- www.sanparks.org well, and two cubs have already been born. there’s an understated hide next to a small ally savour it. You’ll be sure to see hoopoes, vlei, a lovely place to greet the day. The Fossil one hour before sunset hopefully some woodpeckers, and a couple of one hour before sunset Trail is a 400-m self-guided history lesson Drive down to Die Stroom section of the bontebok too. If 1,6 km doesn’t cut it, the Aloe The Karoo is at its most beautiful in the which allows you to better understand the river, which is idyllic all day long, but par- Hill Trail is about twice as long and has amaz- interstices of the day, when the sun is low palaeontology and geology of this fascinat-

ticularly special in the evenings. If it’s warm ing river views. – Nick Dall RAMSAY SCOTT DE PINNA KATE on the horizon. At these times colours that ing region. – Nick Dall >

40 WILD WINTER 2013 www.wildcard.co.za WINTER 2013 WILD 41 en route Climb it! JUSTIN FOX JUSTIN

Take a breather between Gauteng and Durban Wagendrift Nature Reserve

The peaceful wa­ With big skies, undulating hills and a pic- gets its name from a ford in the Bushman’s ters of Wagendrift turesque dam, Wagendrift Nature Reserve River used by the transport wagons of old will wash away any travel stress. is an ideal spot to break a journey. A stone’s on their journey from Port Natal to the throw from the N3 near Estcourt, the attrac- goldfields of the Witwatersrand. Wagendrift tive reserve takes you quite by surprise. The comprises a rustic resort, large dam and landscape is rolling grassveld backed by the 980-hectare park, which incorporates the muscular ramparts of the . It wild Moor Park Reserve.

Spend the night one hour before sunset CapeNature reserves offer something for everyone. Accommodation comprises two campsites If you arrive late and only have an hour or so

and a four-bed cottage. The latter lies on a before sunset, take a stroll through the camp- Winter is around the corner and the Boulder Season is upon us. Campsite: R200 (6 persons per site) hill with sweeping views of the dam and is sites and along the banks of the dam. Be sure Rocklands, in the northern Cederberg, is the world's premier Cottages: from R750 for 6 people per cottage per night loud with birdsong throughout the day. It’s to carry binoculars as the birdlife is prolific, bouldering destination. An endless sea of boulders in a land so (R80pp additional, sleeps max 8 people) rugged and so beautiful, it is as if time has stood still there for Permits: R60/day per person or R270/week per person comfortably furnished with two bedrooms, a with more than 215 species recorded. Take centuries. Whether it is bouldering, sport climbing, hiking or just lounge, dining room and kitchen. There are along a camera, too, as the sunset reflections relaxing and taking in the spectacular vistas and experiencing the Standard conservation fees apply. Free access for Wild Card members. two spacious caravan/camping grounds with fill the dam with colour. Boating is the main unique charm, you will find it at Rocklands. Be responsible and put your fires out before retiring for the night. power points and good ablution facilities. activity and the Bushman’s Boating Club Stay at the new upgraded Kliphuis campsite on Pakhuys Pass which Book any self-catering accommodation The smaller of the two is open only during has its club house in the reserve. Fishing is has just recently reopened. There are 14 spacious campsites on or camping site between 01 May and 30 September 2013 and receive a 20% high season. The sites are well maintained popular with scaly, bluegill, bass, carp and eel the river and 3 renovated cottages right in the heart of Rocklands, within reach of hundreds of world class boulders. Come experience discount. Terms and Conditions apply. and set on lawns stretching down to the constituting the main catches. the vastness of nature in one of the most special places on earth. Rates advertised are off peak rates. water’s edge. Kick start your day For more information visit: www.capenature.co.za or call 021 483 0190 | [email protected] Special sightings In the morning, before setting off on the BOOKINGS Ezemvelo The Wagendrift area is the world’s only habi- next leg of your journey, how about tackling KZN Wildlife Conserve. Explore. Experience. reservations tat for a yellow-flowered shrub, Calpurnia the 3,5-km self-guided Furrow Trail in Moor 033-845-1000 woodii. Look out for raptors such as martial, Park? It follows the gnashing Bushman’s www.kznwildlife.com Verreaux’s and African fish eagle. Makha- River through a picturesque kloof and beside beni Hill, overlooking Moor Park, is one of an irrigation furrow built in 1903. There’s the oldest iron-age sites in KwaZulu-Natal plenty of game in this section of the reserve, and dates back almost a millennium. The so keep your eyes peeled for the likes of southern side of the dam boasts fossilised , zebra, blesbok, mountain trees lying exposed above ground. reedbuck and bushbuck. – Justin Fox >

42 WILD WINTER 2013 en route

When Travelling to Kgalagadi, or taking the scenic N12 between Gauteng and the Cape The sun sets over Kalahari thornveld. Jackals three nights to surrender to the peaceful squabble in the distance. The darkening sky atmosphere, the wildlife, the friendly service. already has a sprinkling of stars, hinting at There’s no fuel in the park so refuel You’ll feel the festival to come. You’re 84 km southwest beforehand. You don’t need a 4x4 or high- refreshed after of Kimberley, in Mokala National Park, the clearance bakkie to visit, though they do staying over in Mokala’s luxuri­ perfect away-from-it-all stopover between make for a more pleasant ride on dirt roads ous bungalows. Cape Town and Jozi. Stay at least two or after the rains.

Spend the night hopes with your guide so the route can be At Mosu Lodge you can opt for self-catering tailored to improve your chances. Feeling or dine at the restaurant known for its veni- lazy? Enjoy a sundowner on the stoep of son pies. There’s also a bar and pool for over- Mosu Lodge’s restaurant for a grand view night visitors. Lilydale has self-catering units of buffalo, tsessebe, , , overlooking the Riet River, plus a coffee- eland and drinking at shop and pool for guests. the waterhole. The waterhole next to the Motswedi rustic campsite has six sites Haak-en-Steek rustic cottage also draws situated in a semi-circle around a waterhole. zebra, warthog and tsessebe like a magnet. Each site has private ablutions with gas/solar Or relax in your camp chair at Motswedi power and there’s a low solar-powered fence campsite and wait for buffalo, tsessebe, around the perimeter for safety. Haak-en- warthog and zebra to visit the waterhole on Steek rustic cottage overlooks a busy water- your doorstep. hole and sleeps four. The campsites along- side can be booked only in tandem with the Kick start your day rustic cottage for larger groups. Join a guided early morning game drive, with coffee and rusks, for a chance to spot Special sightings some of the park’s rarities. If there are five Look for endangered roan and sable ante- or more of you, the restaurant can arrange lope, tsessebe, and aardwolf. Pyg- an after-drive breakfast under an old camel- my falcon and endangered white-backed thorn tree. Keen birders shouldn’t miss the vultures. The endangered devil’s claw with hide at Stofdam for the likes of crimson- BOOKINGS SANParks central its pink flowers and seed pods with ‘claw- breasted shrike, malachite kingfisher, reservations like’ protrusions. long-billed crombec, swallow-tailed bee- 012-428-9111 Mokala is Setswana for the camel-thorn eater, and white-backed and lappet-faced www.sanparks.org tree so it’s not surprising that the park’s sig- vulture. Kudu, nyala, roan and sable also natures are Kalahari thornveld and red sand. drink here. At Lilydale there’s catch-and- release fly-fishing for yellow fish, barbel one hour before sunset and carp in the river, or you can get your Join a guided sunset drive for a chance to dose of heritage on a guided outing to see spot aardvark and aardwolf. Share your rock engravings. – Roxanne Reid >

endangered Devil’s Claw This important medicinal plant species may be lost from the ecosystem because of over-sampling, according TOP SIGHT to SANParks plant expert Hugo Bezuidenhout. A stopover at STEPHEN CUNLIFFE STEPHEN GILLIAN CONDE Mokala is a 44 WILD WINTER 2013 www.wildcard.co.za chance to enjoy WINTERgame viewing.2013 WILD XX En route SCOTT RAMSAY SCOTT

Heading for Mapungubwe or Zimbabwe

If you’re on your way to Mapungubwe, a Roughly three-and-a-half hours from World Heritage Site and medieval African Johannesburg, in Limpopo’s southwest corner, kingdom in the far north of Limpopo, Mara- Marakele lies cradled by the Waterberg. It’s kele National Park offers its own special at- a spectacular ‘place of sanctuary’ for dozens At Marakele you’ll tractions. Naturalist and author of The Soul of rare and endangered species: the largest find one of the of the Ape and The Soul of the White Ant, breeding colony of Cape vultures in South- world’s largest breeding colonies Eugene Marais, found this area a fascinating ern Africa, roughly 400 other bird species, of the Cape place to study and a calming place of retreat. mountain gardens of giant cycads and pro- vulture. You may well do the same. teas, and four of the Big Five.

Spend the night including infrequently seen species such Stay in Marakele’s unfenced Tlopi Tented as tsessebe. Camp and from your expansive wooden deck, watch game come to drink at the love- one hour before sunset ly, reed-fringed dam. Bontle Campsite, also The Towers and their Cape vulture colony of unfenced, has 38 sites and plenty of game more than 800 breeding pairs are Marakele’s wandering past. Beware of the many vervet unmissable sights. An hour before sunset monkeys, who are professional thieves! Defi- take Lekanyane Drive up to the summit, nitely lock up all food and turn the fridge where you’ll see the vultures gliding on the against the wall so they can’t open the door. thermals as the sun sinks behind the deep The new Motswere guesthouse sleeps eight blue mountains, often shrouded in mist. At people, near the park’s Environmental Edu- your feet on the mountain slopes ancient BOOKINGS cation Centre. cycads make the place feel primeval. SANParks central reservations 012-428-9111 Special sightings Kick start your day www.sanparks.org There aren’t tons of game in Marakele, The park is self-drive, but game walks and compared to Kruger, but the park lies in a drives can be customised with the park’s transitional zone between the dry west and expert guides. Start at dawn on a game walk the moister east, and there is considerable with award-winning field guide Sidney biodiversity. Look for lion, elephant, rhino, Mikosi, who has a special affinity for ani- cheetah, leopard and a variety of antelope, mals. – Melissa Siebert

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