PERUVIAN ADVENTURES

ALPAMAYO CLIMB 5947m (19511 ft)

7 days Via Quebrada Add a day extra to also climb Quitaraju Grade: D – steep & technical climbing

With its almost perfect pyramid shape and ice flutings, was nominated the “most beautiful mountain in the world” in a 1966 German photographic exposition.

High Camp Alpamayo

The climbing is steep and technical with several hours of continual front pointing and using two technical ice axes on steep slopes averaging 55 to 65 deg and up to 80 deg. on short sections Climbers need to be experienced on steep ice, and comfortable with using ice screws, snow stakes, anchor systems and descent by rappel + have received some rescue training. The Alpamayo climb is NOT suitable for beginner climbers.

The route climbed (French or Ferrari route) will depend on the conditions on the mountain at the time and whether there is any danger from overhanging cornices or high avalanche risk on one of the routes.

Note 1: Acclimatisation You do need to be very well acclimatised to the altitude to climb Alpamayo. You are sleeping & climbing above 5000m and this is very demanding and tiring for the body. Without sufficient acclimatisation, the chances of becoming ill on the mountain are high, or you may experience a complete loss of energy and be unable to continue with the climb. We always recommend that our Alpamayo clients take, as a minimum, a 4 to 6 day trek for acclimatisation followed by another climb of 2 to 4 days on a 5000m peak for additional acclimatisation and strength before the demanding Alpamayo climb.

Note 2: The routes used and the conditions on all the peaks are rapidly changing each year and even from month to month or week to week due to global warming and subsequent rapid recession of glacial ice. The description below reflects how the climb is in a “normal” year.. Consequently, the descriptions we have given are general only, and the routes used, conditions on the mountain or description of the routes may change considerably on the day we are climbing. It is possible that if there is significant movement on the glaciers that the conditions for climbing could be more difficult and technical than described here. Conditions on all the mountains are changing rapidly and descriptions of routes that you may find in some guide books can be out dated within 12 months.

If at the time of your climbing expedition, information received from previous groups indicates unstable or difficult conditions, we may recommend an alternative climb.

Note 3: The guide in charge of your climb will be one of our local experienced & professional UIAGM International Mountain Guides.

Day 1: Drive Huaraz to Cashapampa. Hike the Santa Cruz Valley to Llamacorral Camp We drive 2½ hours from Huaraz to the village of Cashapampa (2900m) where we meet our donkey drivers. Approaching Cashapampa we have our first view of Santa Cruz, the huge pyramid shaped mountain that gives the trekking circuit its name. We climb up through the Santa Cruz Valley, following the river. The first 2 hours we are in a steep sided river gorge and can be quite hard as we are climbing continuously up, and when the sun is out it is hot here. But later the valley opens out to puna grassland and is flatter and cooler as we approach our first camp. We camp near the river at Llamacorral (3750m). 4 to 5 hours.

Llamacorral Jatuncocha Lake

Day 2: To Alpamayo Base Camp We begin with an easier walk up the open, U-shaped Quebrada Santa Cruz valley, following the Santa Cruz trail towards the impressive snow covered peak of Taulliraju. During the hike up the valley we glimpse the towering pyramid of Santa Cruz mountain and then the twin peaks of Quitaraju and the famous Alpamayo come into view. We walk past two lakes; first the small Ichiccocha then the larger Jatuncocha. We then leave the main Santa Cruz trail and climb for 40 minutes on a steep zig-zag path to enter the hanging Quebrada Arhuaycocha valley and continue with a relaxed hike up the valley to Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m). 4 to 5 hours.

Taulliraju Alpamayo

Day 3: Rest Day or Bad Weather Day Today is a rest day. While porters carry equipment up to the high camp on Alpamayo. You can take a short walk up to the beautiful glacial Laguna Arhuaycocha lake, nestled at the base of Rinrijrca. Often there is ice floating on the lake. Or use this day as a bad weather day. Or there is an option to continue up to an Intermediate camp Morena Camp today instead of going direct from Base Camp to High Camp in a single day

Rinrijirca View from Base Camp

Day 4: Climb to Alpamayo High Camp To High Camp. The first 3 hours is a testing climb on steep and slippery moraine rock until we reach the ice. We then climb up average 45 deg up an ice gully to reach the bottom of an ice cliff. Some years there is about 150m to 200m of 70deg. ice to climb to arrive at the top of an ice cliff, and we may fix ropes on this section. Some years there are crevasses that have opened up on the glacier which we must either negotiate our way around or jump across. The High Camp (5450m) is situated at the top of the ice cliff between Alpamayo & Quitaraju. 6 to 7 hours.

High Camp, Quitaraju is behind

Day 5: High Camp to Alpamayo summit & back We leave camp early and climb on sometimes steep soft snow slopes for about an hour to a bergschrund at the bottom of the southwest face; sometimes there are crevasses to negotiate here. The climb on the southwest face to the summit is steep and technical, with mixed good snow and hard ice. 7 or 8 pitches are needed to reach the summit. The first two pitches are on good snow (55º - 65º) and then it gets steeper with good ice of 65º - 85º. Depending on the level of experience of clients, and the number of clients, a fixed rope may or may not be used. The climb to the summit takes about 5 hours. The descent is by the same route, and takes up to 7 to 8 rappels. Return to sleep at High Camp. The whole day is 8 to 9 hours.

Summit Climbing

Day 6: High Camp to Base Camp Return to Base Camp. It is necessary to make a rappel of 150m to 200m close to the camp to descend the ice cliff. The last 1½ hours to the camp is on steep and slippery rock. 5 to 6 hours for the day. A celebration dinner will be waiting for us at Base Camp.

Day 7: Base Camp direct to Cashapampa & drive to Huaraz A long but easy walk down the Quebrada Santa Cruz to return to Cashapampa. 6 to 7 hours. Our private van will be waiting in Cashapampa to return us to Huaraz.

Optional: Add one day extra to also climb Quitaraju

Climbing Hours: Climbing times are estimated times and based on our average climbing groups from past experience. Some people may be much faster and others slower.

Trek Roads: Access roads to and from treks are generally dirt mountain roads (not paved) and in some places can be bumpy. Road travel times are slower than you may expect for the kms travelled.

Copy: This information and photographs have been prepared by and is confidential to Peruvian Andes Adventures. We are aware that several agencies in Huaraz have copied and plagiarised information that we have invested considerable time and financial resources in developing to provide quality information to our clients. If you receive information & photos from other companies that are identical or very similar to this provided by us, it is very likely to have been copied without permission

Alpamayo French Route Direct