Kerry Food INSIDE: a DIRECTORY of 150+ KERRY FOOD PRODUCERS Story
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YOUR GUIDE TO THE BEST FOOD AND DRINK TO BE FOUND IN COUNTY KERRY theKERRY FOOD INSIDE: A DIRECTORY OF 150+ KERRY FOOD PRODUCERS story 16 RECIPES FROM TOP KERRY CHEFS USING LOCAL PRODUCE FARMERS’ MARKETS AND FESTIVALS : LEARN TO COOK IN KERRY 3 This publication is free thanks to the support of the Kerry Local Enterprise Office. theKERRY FOOD story The story of Kerry Food 8-9 FOREWORD 14-15 COOKERY 21-45 CHEF RECIPES by TJ O’Connor, Head of SCHOOLS USING LOCAL PRODUCE Section, Hotel, Culinary Learn to cook in Kerry See the opposite page and Tourism Department, using local ingredients. for recipes from some IT Tralee. of Kerry’s top chefs. 16-17 FARMERS’ 10-11 THE RAW MARKETS AND FESTIVALS 46-61 KERRY PRODUCER INGREDIENTS Kerry is home to a wealth DIRECTORY What makes Kerry food of food events where you We’ve put together a listing and drink so special. can take a stroll in the Kerry of over 150 local Kerry sunshine, sample the food producers so you know 12-13 THE PRODUCERS and drink from the region what to buy and where to Read how local producers and bring home something buy it. Whether you are shape the raw materials to remarkable to cook. someone who cooks for turn food and drink into fun, a professional chef, real experiences. 18-19 USEFUL WEBSITES or a buyer for a retail A page of website links you outlet, you’ll find lots can use to find out what’s to choose from. going on in the world of Kerry food. 6 The chef recipes Using the best of local Kerry produce 22 SIMON REGAN, THE EUROPE HOTEL 34 SANDRA O’CONNOR, THE COFFEE AND RESORT, KILLARNEY DOCK, VALENTIA ISLAND 23 Ring of Kerry Roast Loin of Lamb 35 Valentia King Scallops and Prawns 24 Apple Parfait with Buttermilk Foam 36 Buttermilk Panna Cotta 25 DAN BROWNE, IT TRALEE 37 NOEL DENNEHY, 26 Cured Fillet of Quinlan’s Mackerel THE MOORINGS, PORTMAGEE 27 Carraig Dubh Porter-Braised Beef Ribs 38 O’Connell’s Poached Duck Egg 39 Fillet of Portmagee Pier Hake 28 PHILIP BRAZIL, SHEEN FALLS LODGE, KENMARE 40 THEO LYNCH, ALLO’S BAR, 29 Roast Fillet of Cod with Kush Mussels BISTRO AND TOWNHOUSE, LISTOWEL 30 Apricot Bread and Butter Pudding 41 Fenit Bay Crab Meat with Aioli 42 North Kerry Beef Fillet with Parsnips 31 PATRICIA TEAHAN, CARRIG COUNTRY HOUSE, KILLORGLIN 43 CAROLINE DANAHER, 32 Ballinskelligs Duck with Carrot Purée THE BOATYARD RESTAURANT, DINGLE 33 Skelligs Chocolate Pavé with 44 From Pier to Platter Tartlet Strawberry Gel 45 Roulade of Dover Sole with Salmon 7 8 FROM TJ O’Connor, Head of SeCTION, HOTEL, CULINARY AND TOURISM DEPARTMENT AT THE INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, TRALEE FOREWORD Welcome to the Kerry Food Story, our way of showcasing some of the remarkable food and drink that Kerry produces. We hope this publication contributes to strengthening the links between everyone who creates, cooks, eats and drinks in Kerry and beyond. We want to give a strong and vibrant message that Kerry is open for business in relation to food and drink and that we have some of the best producers not just in Ireland, but in the world. We asked eight of the finest chefs from all corners of Kerry to produce a series of dishes using predominantly Kerry produce. I hope you will agree that the dishes created for this publication would stand proud on any local, regional, national and international stage. We want to inspire other chefs and food enthusiasts within our county and outside of it to use Kerry produce on their menus, which in turn will tell the story that is Kerry food. The Kerry Food Story would not be complete without the acknowledgement of all the other stakeholders which make our food such a success. There are many organisations that support food development within the county from producer groups like Taste Kerry and the Kingdom Food Network to those who run and support regular food markets and festivals. We should also recognise the Institute of Technology in Tralee (all the chefs in this book are alumni) and the many cookery schools and programmes which provide education for chefs, producers and food enthusiasts in County Kerry. They raise the profile of Kerry food, ensuring that we add skill and talent to the mix. We could not have produced this book and its recipes without our chefs, the Kerry Local Enterprise Office, the food producers and of course you, our readers. I am very proud to be a Kerryman. And as a chef and educationalist I could not think of a better place in the world to be than in Kerry. But there is no point being the best at anything if you don’t tell anyone about it. So here it is: the Kerry Food Story. Enjoy. Bain sult as an scéal, TJ O’Connor 9 10 COOKING WITH THE BEST OF KERRY KERRY HAS A VERITABLE LARDER OF WORLD-CLASS INGREDIENTS ON ITS DOORSTEP. FROM THE BEEF OF NORTH KERRY TO MOUNTAIN LAMB, RIPE RED STRAWBERRIES TO AN ABUNDANCE OF FRESH-GROWN VEGETABLES AND THE BEST SEAFOOD THAT THE ATLANTIC COASTLINE HAS TO OFFER. THE RAW INGREDIENTS The story of Kerry food starts with its people, with the producers who create the ingredients and finished products that we buy in our shops, eat in our restaurants and hotels, discover in our farmers’ markets and that other producers turn into other food and drink to sell. It is brought to life at its best by our chefs, many of whom have trained locally at the IT Tralee; some have come from other parts of Ireland or further afield to work in the food and drink industry in Kerry, attracted by having some of the finest ingredients in the world on their doorstep. From the world cheese award-winning Kate Carmody at Béal Organic who creates her organic cheese with milk from her Friesian herd to hand-made ice cream in every assortment of flavour made by the Murphy brothers in Murphy’s Ice Cream in Dingle; from North Kerry Beef to Ring of Kerry Lamb; from duck from Ballinskelligs to King Scallops from Valentia Island; from Dingle Gin from Dingle Distillery to organic smoked salmon from Kenmare Select, every corner of the county is abundant with a raw material that is turned into good things to eat and drink. As a people we want – and need – to celebrate our own food; it is part of our culture, it gives momentum to our everyday lives. It is a living breathing part of the fabric of the landscape for visitors who want to eat a good meal with home-grown and produced ingredients. Good ingredients are at the heart of good cooking. Every chef knows this intuitively as does every mother who wants to put a good meal on the table. Every diner at a restaurant, every visitor who sees the difference between one land mass and another when they travel ‘gets’ it. Without the best ingredients you just cannot live the best life. What unites all the producers listed in the back of this book is an understanding of the terroir of Kerry, that indescribable mix of land and sea, rock and mountain, grass and wilderness that nourishes everything that grows here and differentiates it. Throughout this book with the help of some of the top chefs in Kerry, you will find this produce, and ways to help it find its way on to your plate, no matter where you are in the world. Local or global, Kerry produce stands tall with the best in the world. 11 12 THE people who MAKE IT happen PRODUCERS ARE THE BACKBONE OF THE STORY OF KERRY FOOD. THEIR SHEER SKILL, DETERMINATION, ENERGY AND ENTREPRENEURISM IS WHAT, QUITE LITERALLY, GETS GOOD FOOD AND DRINK ON THE TABLE. THE PRODUCERS The wealth of food producers in Kerry is second-to-none. When you run your eye across the directory listings in the back of this book, one thing is immediately clear: the sheer variety and range of individuals and companies who get up each morning to create something and who put their heart and soul into it. On pages 21 to 45 you’ll see how 8 of the top chefs in Kerry interpret those products and how they make them sing in their dishes. At play is osmosis, that wonderfully scientific theory where a little bit of this ends up sitting on a plate with a little bit of that. See how Dingle Gin captures the imagination of Patricia Teahan in her dessert recipe on page 33 and ends up next to a dish that showcases Ballinskelligs Duck and Fenit Carrots. Olivier Beaujouan pickles foraged sea vegetables and almost by cross-pollination, it makes its way into Maja Binder’s cheese. His pickled vegetables positively glow with pride as an element in Dan Browne’s recipe for Cured Fillet of Quinlan’s Mackerel on page 26. At Daly’s Seafoods, they sell fresh mussels and oysters from Cromane and the finest Dingle Bay prawns so that visitors can find them on the menu to get a real taste from the fresh waters of Kerry. Fudge-maker John Harty of Fab Fudge makes rainbow-coloured fudge using local Lee Strand milk which he sells at markets and which travels to the annual Bloom Festival to be eaten by Dubliners on a day out. Each producer has their own style, their own way of doing business. And everyone of them wants to excel and bring you joy on the plate.