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Virginiathe Old Dominion

Virginiathe Old Dominion

Virginia The Old by Jean Kirschenmann

Virginia is a state of contrasts—from the suburbs of Washington, D.C., in to the Great Dismal in the south and from the scenic mountaintops in the west to the beachside resorts along its eastern shore. Virginia became a state in 1788, the tenth state to join the Union. Virginia’s complex story is closely tied to the story of the , but it also has several chapters all its own.

Virginia’s , some of the oldest mountains in the world, have been worn down over time, taking on the appearance of gently rolling hills. The The , which is 200 miles long, cuts deep into the eastern coast of the United States. The flat lands that border it are known as the Tidewater. This region takes its name from the fact that the ocean tides reach into the waters of the bay. The Eastern Shore of Virginia—actually a peninsula separated from the rest of Vir- ginia by the Chesapeake Bay—shelters the bay from the sometimes turbulent waters of the . Over 40 rivers empty into the Chesapeake Bay, making it a vast estuary where fresh water from rivers Geography mingles with the salty water of the ocean. Virginia is the twelfth largest state in In the southeastern corner of the the United States in terms of population Tidewater lies the Great Dismal Swamp. It with just over 7,700,000 people, and it is was named by early British explorers who 35th in terms of area with approximately found it to be a mysterious and frighten- 42,800 square miles of land. This makes ing place. Today, it is a noted wildlife Virginia similar in size and population to refuge and home to a wide range of fauna the country of . from newts to black bears. At the center of Virginia has three major geographic the swamp is Lake Drummond, a rather regions. These regions have played, and large natural lake, one of only two in continue to play, a central role in the Virginia. (All other lakes in Virginia were The state capitol building in Richmond was originally history, commerce, and social life of the made by damming up rivers and streams.) designed by , people who live in them. Virginia’s major centers of population third president of the United States. are also located in the Tidewater. These include the state’s largest and resort center, Virginia Beach, and the nearby port of Norfolk and Newport News.

The The word piedmont comes from the French language and means, literally, “the foot of the mountain.” Indeed, the Pied- mont of Virginia is a series of gentle roll- ing hills increasing in elevation as one travels west from the Tidewater region to the Blue Ridge Mountains. The major city of the Piedmont is Richmond, a city of about 200,000 and Virginia’s capital since 1780. Besides the usual offic- es found in any capital city, Richmond is known for its beautiful historic buildings,

40 2 0 0 9 N u m b e r 3 | E n g l i s h T E a c h i n g F o r u m quality museums, and art galleries. The now Virginia. They hunted deer and tur- state capitol building was designed by key and raised corn, squash, beans, and a Thomas Jefferson, the third president of crop that would later have a major impact the United States. In 1888, the first suc- on Virginia—. They had formed cessful streetcar system in the world began , alliances, and long operation in Richmond. before Europeans visited the region. French and Spanish explorers were the The Mountain and Valley first Europeans to visit this area, but they Region did not establish permanent settlements. At the time, England was experiencing Two mountain ranges, the scenic Blue tensions from population growth, reli- Ridge Mountains and the more rugged gious conflict, and a growing rivalry with , part of the Appala- Spain. Establishing British colonies in the chian Mountain Range, form the western Western Hemisphere was seen as a way edge of Virginia. These mountain ranges are to challenge Spain and provide economic among the oldest in the world. Because time opportunity for Englishmen. Tobacco, which grows well in and the elements have worn them down, In numerous attempts over several Virginia’s climate, became the they are not as tall as some other mountain number one crop in the 1600s. decades, the English tried to establish a Colonists made a profit selling chains; nevertheless, they hold breathtaking their tobacco in England. scenery. These two mountain ranges are separated by the Valley.

Climate Virginia has the full range of seasonal changes that are typical of temperate zone climates. Summertime can be hot and humid, and winter can bring some snowy days. However, for the most part, Vir- ginia’s climate is moderated by its latitude and its location on the Atlantic coast. The various geographical regions of the state have different weather patterns. While Tidewater Virginia may see only a few inches of snow each winter, the moun- tainous region may get several feet. Simi- larly, the growing season in the Tidewater can be as long as eight months compared to only five in the west. Beach lovers may be enjoying the sun in Virginia Beach at the same time that winter sports enthusi- asts are skiing in the mountains.

A Brief When Europeans began to explore the New World in the late 1500s, Native Americans were living in the area that is

E n g l i s h T E a c h i n g F o r u m | N u m b e r 3 2 0 0 9 41 colony near present-day Virginia co grew well both in the Tidewater, where and . More than it was grown on large estates owned by once, they chose places plagued wealthy landowners, and in the Piedmont, by malaria-carrying mosquitoes where it was grown on smaller farms and or arrived too late in the year to homesteads owned by frontiersmen and plant food before winter. More freed servants. Thus tobacco came to be The Virginia state quarter commemorates than once, men became distracted the number one industry in Virginia and the 400th anniversary of from building a settlement by the remained so for many years. the establishment of the settlement at Jamestown in dream of finding riches. Twice, settlers In 1619, Virginia became the first col- 1607 as well as the year who remained in the colony disappeared ony to have elected government officials Virginia became a state (1788). before the next ship arrived from England. when Virginians elected representatives What happened to these lost colonies is to serve as their legislators in a body they still the subject of legend and archaeologi- called the . cal study. In the latter half of the 18th cen- Finally, in 1607, a British settlement tury, political and economic tensions grew was founded 60 miles upriver from the between Britain and its colonies in North Chesapeake Bay at a site the colonists America. Still, many Virginians continued called Jamestown in honor of their king, to think of themselves as British. From James I. With the strong leadership of 1773 to 1775, Virginians and other colo- Captain and the aid of the nists debated whether to remain loyal to Indians, Jamestown survived Britain or to declare themselves indepen- and became the first permanent British dent. In 1776, representatives from all of settlement in the New World. the colonies met in . Virgin- In 1613, a planter in that settlement, ians played an important role in these Manassas National Battlefield Park, shown here, is the site of , sent the first shipment of Vir- meetings. submitted two major battles of the ginia tobacco to England, where it imme- a motion to declare the colonies’ indepen- . Nearly half of all Civil War battles were diately became popular. In Virginia tobac- dence. Thomas Jefferson was chief author fought in Virginia. of the Declaration of Independence, the document that formally declared the thir- teen colonies independent from Great Britain, naming them the United States of America. When the American Revolutionary War broke out, , from Virginia, was asked to lead the Continen- tal Army in its fight against Britain. The war with Britain ended in 1783, and the new nation was established. By 1787 it was clear that the new nation had a weak national government. , another Virginian, pre- sented a blueprint for the new consti- tution. Madison’s plan provided for a stronger central government and defined the country as a union of semi-indepen- dent states. Representatives from Virginia

42 2 0 0 9 N u m b e r 3 | E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m proposed amending the by adding a Bill of Rights, similar to the one that was already in the Virginia constitu- tion. These ten amendments guarantee all citizens freedom of speech, religion, and other individual rights. After the Consti- tution was ratified, George Washington was elected the first president of the United States of America. Late in the 18th century, the soil of Virginia began to wear out, and tobac- co growers faced difficult times. They brought in more laborers to extract tobac- A Navy ship docks in Norfolk co from the tired land, so by 1790 there ucts, to warships. Virginia is home to two Naval Shipyard, one of the were almost as many slaves in Virginia as largest shipyards in the world of the largest shipyards in the world, the and an important employer in there were free people. Like the rest of the Norfolk Naval Shipyard and the Newport Virginia. nation, Virginians were conflicted about News Shipbuilding and Dry Dock Com- the issue of slavery. Some believed that pany. Military installations are also major slavery had to be ended on moral grounds. employers of residents of Virginia. Others felt the issue should be decided Because of northern Virginia’s close individually by each state. The debate proximity to the national capital, a signifi- grew more heated, and the two sides grew cant number of Virginians are employed more polarized. Eventually, eleven states, in federal government offices and in the including Virginia, broke away from the construction industry that supports the United States to form the Confederate growing population and government States of America. infrastructure in that part of the state. The southern Confederate states Since Washington, D.C., and Virginia fought the northern states (the Union) in are world-renowned tourist destinations, the American Civil War, which began in many Virginians are also employed in the 1861. Nearly half of all Civil War battles hospitality and service sector. were fought in Virginia, and, for much Although agriculture is no longer Vir- of the war, Richmond, Virginia, served as ginia’s largest industry, many Virginians the capital of the Confederacy. In 1865, are still engaged in part-time farming or the North won the war, and Confederate fishing. Poultry, dairy goods, and cattle General Robert E. Lee surrendered to the have become large sources of agricultural Union commander, General Ulysses S. income. Tobacco continues to be a lucra- Grant, in a village in Virginia called Appo- tive crop; grains, corn, soybeans, peanuts, mattox Court House. and sweet potatoes are also grown. Both apples from the orchards in northern At Work in Virginia Virginia and Smithfield hams from the Nearly half a million Virginians are estuary are world famous. The employed in manufacturing, producing a Chesapeake Bay was once the home of a wide array of products—from furniture, thriving seafood industry, but over-fishing textiles, computer components, electrical has forced many fishermen to look for equipment, chemicals, and paper prod- other sources of income.

E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m | N u m b e r 3 2 0 0 9 43 1789 to 1797), Thomas Jefferson (1801– 1809), James Madison (1809–1817), and (1817–1825). Their lead- ership and service were critical during the formative years of the young country. The other four presidents from Virginia were William Henry Harrison (1841), (1841–1845), Zachary Tay- lor (1849–1850), and (1913–1921). Like other states, Virginia has chosen special symbols to showcase particular fea- tures of the state. The Virginia state bird is the northern , a common song- bird found throughout the . The male cardinal is particularly This life-sized statue of George Washington stands in the Symbols of Virginia easy to spot because he is covered with rotunda of the state capitol bright red plumage, including a red crest in Richmond, surrounded by All states in the United States have busts of the other seven U.S. atop his head. presidents who came from nicknames. Virginia is known as The Most states name both a state tree and Virginia. Old Dominion. This name dates from a state flower, but Virginia is one of only the 1600s, when the settlers in Virginia three states to name the same plant as both remained loyal to King Charles II during its state tree and flower—the beautiful the . As a reward, the flowering dogwood. Its flowers come in king raised Virginia’s status to dominion pink and white varieties and bloom for a (along with England, , Ireland, short time in early spring. Dogwood flow- and France). Because it was the oldest of ers are easy to recognize by their four dis- King Charles’s settlements in America, Vir- tinctively shaped petals, each with a small ginia took the name “The Old Dominion.” notch or cleft. Although the dogwood is Another nickname for Virginia is not a large tree, its wood is strong and use- Mother of Presidents, which refers to ful for making wooden tools. the fact that more presidents have come The Chesapeake Bay was once home from Virginia than from any other state, to a thriving shellfish industry. Thus, it is eight altogether. Four of the first five no surprise that the oyster has been des- U.S. presidents were Virginians: George ignated as Virginia’s state shell. Virginia Washington (who was president from has also chosen a state boat related to the shellfish industry. It has the peculiar name of deadrise, which refers to the angle of the Above: The northern cardinal, underside of the boat. The flat-bottomed a common songbird of the Virginia deadrise is particularly well suited eastern United States, is the Virginia state bird. to the shallow waters of the Right: The flowering dogwood Chesapeake Bay and is both the state tree and state flower of Virginia. Dogwoods the heavy equipment can have either white or pink that fishermen use flowers. Far right: The oyster has been to trap and haul in designated as Virginia’s state their catches of crabs, shell. oysters, and fish.

44 2 0 0 9 N u m b e r 3 | E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m potential in its vast stands of cypress trees and was one of the first to attempt to drain water from the swamp to harvest its timber. Draining the swamp proved to be difficult, yet loggers built roads to gain access to the timber. These and other human activities altered the ecosystem; over time, the swamp and its resources shrank until the 1970s, when pressure from environmental groups led the Union Camp paper corporation to donate nearly 50,000 acres of the swamp to conserva- tion. Today the protected area is even larger, and the mission of conservationists is to restore the swamp, as much as possi- ble, to its original state. The Great Dismal Swamp is a favorite destination for bikers, hikers, birders, and fishermen. The Blue Ridge is among the most visited places in the U.S. National Left: The brilliant fall colors of Park system. This parkway winds along the attract many visitors to the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, stretch- park each year. Below: Shenandoah National ing almost 500 miles from Shenandoah Park, seen here from the Blue National Park in Virginia to the Great Ridge Parkway, is one of Virginia’s many places of Smoky Mountains in North Carolina. natural beauty.

Tourist Attractions and Activities About 750,000 tourists visit Virginia every year. Their destinations fall into two main categories—places of natural beauty and recreation and places related to his- tory and government. Scenic recreational areas and protected natural habitats can be found all across the state, from the Eastern Shore to the scenic . The sites described below are a few of the most popular among visitors to Virginia. The Great Dismal Swamp straddles the Virginia and North Carolina border. As a young man, George Washington worked as a surveyor and explored nearly every region in Virginia, including the Great Dismal Swamp. He saw economic

E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m | N u m b e r 3 2 0 0 9 45 eastern United States. Millions of years old, the caverns were discovered in 1878, and they became a travel destination soon after that. Visitors are amazed by the stalactites and stalagmites, some of which reach 140 feet in length. In 1954, an enterprising mathematician and elec- tronics engineer, Leland Sprinkle, cre- ated what is known as the world’s largest organ in one of the caves. Called the Great Stalacpipe Organ, the instrument produces music when carefully engi- neered mallets strike stalactites in the cavernous room. History buffs could never visit all of the points of interest that Virginia has to offer. Arlington National Cemetery in northern Virginia, just outside Washing- ton, D.C., is the resting place of national and political heroes, including John F. , the home of Thomas Jefferson, was The Parkway, begun as a public works Kennedy and Robert Kennedy. Museums designed by Jefferson himself. project during the 1930s Depression, took and historic sites dot the state and preserve Built and rebuilt over the course of 40 years, Monticello more than 50 years to complete. This the stories of former presidents and other was completed in 1809. road is known for its scenic beauty; thus leaders. Thomas Jefferson’s home, visitor information notices urge travelers Monticello, near Charlottesville, Virgin- to “enjoy the drive but watch the road.” ia, is arguably the most famous. There The Parkway connects dozens of charming visitors see and learn that Jefferson was a communities and historical sites, including thinker, a writer, an inventor, an architect, some of the oldest known pre-historic sites a farmer, a traveler, and a man with a com- and early European settlements in North plex personal life that is still the subject of America. public interest and debate. Another popu- Other must-see destinations lie with- lar estate in Virginia is , in Virginia’s mountains. These moun- the beloved home of George Washington tains contain limestone, which dissolves in his adult years, located near Alexandria, in water; over time, rain and rivers have Virginia, on the . Visitors carved huge caves and unusual rock for- can stroll through the gardens, tour the mations out of the rocks. Natural Bridge, home and outbuildings, and view artifacts one of the most famous of such spots, is from George Washington’s life (including an arch just over 200 feet high carved out his wooden dentures) in the education of the mountain by the elements. George center. Washington etched his initials in the rock Civil War battlegrounds and sites that there, and Thomas Jefferson’s family once played key roles in colonial times are also owned the site. Today Natural Bridge is a popular visitor destinations. The historic National Historic Landmark. site known as is Another famous destination is Luray one of the world’s best living museums. Caverns, the largest series of caves in the In 1920, the millionaire philanthropist

46 2 0 0 9 N u m b e r 3 | E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m Mount Vernon, the former John D. Rockefeller took an interest in the Websites of Interest estate of George Washington, history of Williamsburg and founded an is a popular tourist destination. Assateague Island National Seashore Visitors enjoy touring the home organization dedicated to restoring much www.assateagueisland.com and outbuildings and strolling through the gardens. of the town to its colonial period form. This website provides information not only Today visitors tour fully restored homes, about the ponies of Assateague Island but also mansions, shops, and inns and observe, about the ongoing work of conservationists on the or even participate in, colonial era crafts Eastern Shore, as well as recreational activities and travel to and from the island. such as barrel making and blacksmithing. Visitors also learn about the lives of slaves Colonial Williamsburg and freed blacks who made up half of www.history.org the population of colonial Williamsburg. The official website for Colonial Williams- burg, this site is rich with information and stun- Archaeological work and other forms of ning photography showing many facets of life research are ongoing, and a Powhatan and work in this living museum. Information for Indian village has been re-created nearby. teachers includes lesson plans.

E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m | N u m b e r 3 2 0 0 9 47 A horse-drawn carriage passes the Governor’s Palace in Colo- Commonwealth of Virginia Virginia Presidents nial Williamsburg, a restored www.virginia.gov www.virginia.org/site/features.asp?featureid=94 colonial town that is now a This site, the official website of the state of Eight U.S. presidents were born in Virginia; popular living museum. Virginia, has links to information ranging from information about their lives, their presidencies, government to tourism and travel. The “Facts and and their homes is available at this Virginia tour- History” section provides many layers of informa- ism website. tion.

National Park Service www.nps.gov/state/va Jean Kirschenmann is an assistant professor in The (NPS) oversees the TESL program at Hawai‘i Pacific wildlife habitats, historic sites, and places of beauty University in Honolulu. She is particularly set aside for the enjoyment and education of visi- interested in teacher training and materials tors. This site has links to all the sites administered development for EFL settings. She has lived by the NPS in Virginia and includes information and worked in China, Micronesia, Japan, and for teachers. Romania.

48 2 0 0 9 N u m b e r 3 | E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m The Ponies of Assateague Island

Assateague Island is the largest of Virginia’s Service, share ownership and management of the Eastern Shore islands. It is a wildlife refuge and parks, wildlife, and the pony herds on Assateague home to thousands of birds that live on the island Island. or use it as a stopping-off point on their annual In the last week of July every year, the Virginia migrations to warmer or cooler climates. However, ponies become the center of attention in an annual the most famous residents of Assateague Island ritual that attracts thousands of local residents and are about 150 semi-wild horses, more often called tourists. Early in the week, the ponies are rounded ponies. The Assateague ponies are known for their up and examined. On Wednesday they are herded to intelligence, colorful beauty, and their ability to the shore, from which they swim about five to ten adapt to life on the marshy, sandy islet where they minutes across a narrow channel to Chincoteague feed on wild grasses, typically in groups of five to Island. The next day, most of the foals are auctioned ten. off to keep the herd from growing beyond a size that The Assateague ponies are biologically related the resources of the island can sustain. A few young to Spanish horses, although it is unclear how they ponies are kept in the herd for breeding purposes. originally came to Assateague Island. One story The money earned from the auction pays for the is that they are descended from Spanish horses support of the ponies and for ser- that survived an offshore shipwreck in the 1500s. vices. On Friday, the remaining ponies are herded Another story suggests that they are descended back to their home on Assateague Island. from Spanish work animals that later interbred The story of the ponies was made famous in a with British horses. Today the states of 1947 book by Marguerite Henry entitled Misty of and Virginia, in cooperation with the National Park Chincoteague, which has become a children’s classic.

Semi-wild horses walk along the sandy shore of Assateague Island.

E n g l i s h T e a c h i n g F o r u m | N u m b e r 3 2 0 0 9

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