Compiled and Published by Heritage Group

ISSUE No. 51 2018/2019 PRICE €8.00 The Herald Annual Publication of Ballymote Heritage Group

Compiled and Published by Ballymote Heritage Group

Editor: Stephen

Design, Typesetting and Printing: Orbicon Print,

Cover Design and Artwork: Brenda Friel

Issue No 51 2018/2019

The Corran Herald wishes to sincerely thank all those who have written articles or contributed photographys or other material for this issue 2 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

Contents Page Eamonn Barnes (1934 - 2017) 4 Gerry Keaney, Ballymote 4 33 years and 50 issues of The Corran Herald (By Neal Farry) 5 The changing world of the telephone (By Bernie Gilbride) 9 Trial and error: The Second Marquis of (By Malcolm Billings) 10 Remembering Eugene Gillan 12 The rich history of Earlsfield House, Ballymote (By Sr Nell Chambers) 13 Porcelain’s Journey (By Margaret Perry) 16 Intelligent, urbane, pompous and vain: The life of James Taaffe (By John C McTernan) 17 Remembering John Hannon 17 Parnell almost snatches victory from the jaws of defeat - The North Sligo by-election of 1891 (By Padraig Deignan) 18 Everything ahead of them: Fourth year students of Coláiste Mhuire in 1965 (Courtesy of Maura Cunnane) 23 An Gorta Mór 1845 - 1850: Famine orphan girls from Co. Sligo (By Fiona Doherty) 24 Synge at the Opera House: A reminiscence of Belfast (By Michael J Meehan) 26 A meeting of minds: Pupils from Ballymote visiting friends at St Nathy’s, 1955 27 South Sligo Election 1918 (By Michael Farry) 28 Potato Picking (By Joan Gleeson) 32 Agreement between Ó Domhnaill and Tadhg Ó Conchobhair (By Neal Farry and Donal ) 33 The Brett family of Sligo and Canada (By Padraig Doddy) 36 Lions and cities, markets and sands: Travels in Africa and Qatar (By Stephen Flanagan) 37 The Cailleach Bherra: A witch through the ages (By Lynda Hart) 41 A medal for Fr Pat 57 years late 43 Michael Doyle (By Padraig McDermott) 43 The Napoleonic signal towers of Rathlee and Carrowmably (By Sam Moore) 44 Pubs of Ballymote in 1910 (By Padraig McDermott) 46 Sligo, , Davitt and the Land League (By Joe Mc Gowan) 47 Earl of Erne’s Sligo estate (By John C McTernan) 49 Lost in translation (By Kathleen Quinn) 50 A Tinker Child (By John Hannon) 50 Why not turn South or West! (By Martin A Timoney) 51 Teeling St, Ballymote (Submitted by Donal Gallagher) 53 Sligo’s avenger of President Lincoln (By John C McTernan) 54 Gore-Booth’s engagement gift 56 Lime-making in kilns - Yesterday’s cottage industry (By Garreth Byrne) 57 The deepest of links (By John Coleman) 58 Irish mythology and its relevance today (By Theresa Kelly) 59 Ballagh Town (By John Hannon) 60 The picnic volcano and tales of old (By Bernie Gilbride) 61 Snapshots of the past from Census information (By Padraig Doddy) 62 Dennisons of , Co. Sligo: Adopted genealogical kin (By Kate Denison Bell) 63 The many places of Saint Féichίn (By Micheál Murphy) 66 The Irish in the American Revolutionary War (By Paul Burns) 68 The death of a brilliant young doctor (Submitted by Padraig McDermott) 69 Deechomede’s Unknown Volunteer (By John McDonagh) 70 The Cock Tavern Kilburn (By John Hannon) 72 Deceit in a crowd (By Kathleen Quinn) 72 Brother Francis McGovern - An outstanding Sligo footballer and much more (By Tommy Kilcoyne) 73 Special places in Paris for the Irish College (Submitted by Neal Farry) 75 28th Ballymote Heritage Weekend 2017 78 First Holy Communion and Confirmation 2018 Knockminna 79 Ballymote Heritage Group 80

3 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Eamonn Barnes (1934 - 2017) Prosecutions (DPP). Mr Barnes was King’s Inns. Having been called the State’s first Director of Public to the Bar in 1958, he served in the Prosecutions and held the position Attorney General’s Office from 1966 from 1975 until his retirement in 1999. until his appointment as DPP. He was Mr Barnes was born in Ballymote in instrumental in the foundation in 1995 1934, son of primary school teachers of the International Associations of John A and Bridget Barnes. John A Prosecutors and served as its president Barnes was noted for his exceptional from 1996 until his retirement. The teaching abilities, providing extra Association now has organisational tuition to pupils outside school hours members in 171 countries around the and supporting their advancement world. to further education or employment. On the occasion of his death, his Eamonn Barnes was very proud of successor Claire Loftus reflected on his Ballymote origins and was long his significant contribution to Irish a keen supporter of the Ballymote legal history, setting up the office Heritage Group, returning regularly of Director of Public Prosecutions, with his wife Dolores (Do) for the establishing and maintaining its annual Heritage Weekend. He was statutory independence and the highest predeceased by Do in 2008. prosecutorial standards. Ballymote Mr Barnes was educated at Heritage Group extends sympathy to The Ballymote Heritage Group was Ballymote National School, Eamonn’s family his sons Joe, Paul saddened in November 2017 to learn Franciscan College, Multyfarnham, and John and daughters Mary Jane of the death of our Patron Eamonn St Nathy’s College, Ballaghaderreen, and Ruth. Barnes, former Director of Public University College and the Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam dilis. Gerry Keaney, Ballymote It is with great sympathy and regret Gerry was also an inspirational impressive stage sets for productions that we note the sad death of Gerry founder member of Ballymote like John B. Keane’s ‘The Field’ and Keaney, Ballymote, who passed Wanderers F.C. Since this soccer club ‘Many Young Men of 20’. Like the away during the past year. For over a had no home ground Gerry negotiated characters in the aforementioned quarter of a century Gerry has been a the temporary use of Healy’s Derroon musical drama, Gerry also was forced constant and informative supporter of Stud, Tommy Cryan’s field in Carnaree to seek his fortune in England in all the activities of Ballymote Heritage and Bright’s field in Ardsallagh for the early seventies. He returned to Group. After completing his education home games. Apart from playing Ballymote about 20 years later. He in Ballymote Vocational School in the MacArthur Cup and Cup developed his interest in local history late 50s Gerry went into the building matches in Abbeyville Park, Sligo, and culture through the local Heritage trade locally. He soon earned a Gerry arranged challenge matches Group. One of Gerry’s favourite reputation as a master craftsman and with the White Father Seminarians in pastimes was to converse through he had the distinction of building new Blacklion, Co. Cavan, Castlerea F.C. the medium of Irish with people of a houses in Keenaghan, Branchfield and and Celtic. Completely similar outlook about sport, politics, . What was unique ignoring the G.A.A’s infamous local stories and especially about the about this construction activity was ‘Ban’ on ‘foreign games,’ Gerry also fortunes of his beloved soccer club, that Gerry worked entirely on his frequently togged out for Ballymote’s Sligo Rovers. Gerry was always a own, completing all the processes of Gaelic football teams. season ticket holder of the Rovers and building alone and unaided. During Furthermore Gerry was also an could be seen every second Saturday the early 60s Gerry played the accomplished artist with admirable night in the Showgrounds adding his accordion in a small Céilí band with sketching ability and his skills were voice to the tumult of the home fans. his fellow musicians, Jimmy Brennan, frequently utilised by the Ballymote Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam dílis. Woodfield, Séamus O’Gara, Cambs Dramatic Society under its producer, and Brendan McCabe, . Liam McGann, for the preparation of

4 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 33 years and 50 issues of The Corran Herald

By Neal Farry

now known as Ballymote-Doo, Keash-Culfadda and Bunninadden- Killaville. In Eileen’s account we are clearly and unambiguously informed that was the idea of the late Una Preston. Keenan Johnson Jr proposed The Corran Herald as a title. Initially the Herald was perceived as a monthly or seasonal newsletter that would highlight current events in the locality of an archaeological, historical, musical, entertainment, sporting and social nature. Very soon the Herald developed its own dynamic and it emerged as a periodical with a strong emphasis on matters of local historical Mrs Una Preston - The prime interest. Twenty-eight editions were mover behind the compilation of published during the decade 1985- The Corran Herald 1995. Since 1995 The Corran Herald basis to coincide with the Ballymote James Flanagan - Editor of The Heritage Weekend during the August Corran Herald 1985 - 2012 has been published on an annual Mr James Flanagan, the late distinguished editor of The Corran Herald from its launch in October 1985 until his death in 2012, and Mrs Eileen Tighe, President of Ballymote Heritage Group, have both given appropriate and informative updates on the impressive progress of their beloved journal, formerly in 1995 on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of The Corran Herald (Issue 28), and latterly in August 2014 (Issue 47). While our two previous reviewers have more than adequately portrayed the Herald’s story, I have inherited the unenviable task of highlighting the Members of Ballymote Heritage Group in 1992. These people were all members of the Heritage Group when The Corran Herald was launched in immense positive contribution that the 1985. Herald has made to the cultural and Seated: (left to right) Mrs Yvonne Perceval (Vice Chairperson), Mrs Eileen social narrative of the ancient Tuath Tighe (Chairperson), Dr Stan Casey (President), Mrs Tilly Casey, Mrs or of Corran, that comprises Carmel Rogers (Secretary), Mrs Betty Conlon (Treasurer) the ancient parishes of Emlaghfad, Standing: Ms Nuala Rogers, Mr Paddy Horan, Mr Jack Martin, Mr Kilmorgan, Drumrat, Toomour, Vincent Jordan, Mr James Flanagan (Editor, Corran Herald), Mrs Eileen (P.R.O) Kilshalvey, Cloonoghil and Kilturra, White, Mrs Catherine Finn , Mr Gerry Cassidy, Mrs Mary Martin, Mrs Anne Harrison, Mrs Mary O’Donnell.

5 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

confirm the dictum that ‘a picture is worth a thousand words’. Eileen has also paid a well deserved tribute to James’ son, Stephen, who has filled the editorial role since 2012 and who has maintained and indeed enhanced the high standard set by his father. The highly intuitive words of James Flanagan that describe the function of The Corran Herald in are indeed worthy of quotation: ‘Because it reflects the aims and ideals of the Heritage Group, it is naturally most concerned with matters of local history, archaeology, culture, folklore and all the many things that together make up the unique character of any Stephen Flanagan - Editor of The given area. And so it has become a Brenda Friel provided the Cover Corran Herald since 2012 conduit through which has flowed design and artwork for The Corran Herald Bank holiday period. It is clear that a vast amount of information on all the late James Flanagan has proved his these topics into the ever-increasing Ballymote Community Council, Mr worth as a dedicated and skilled editor. reservoir of the pages of its issues, and Paddy Brady, stressed the power of Under his stewardship the numbers of hopefully will continue to flow.’ the media and communication by contributors increased and the quality The first edition of The Corran different groups within a community of the articles matured as writers were Herald was launched by Mr Ted and communication between that inspired by every succeeding edition, Nealon TD, Minister for Arts and community and the outside world. and became confident and anxious to Culture, in the Castle Hotel, on 25 ‘To have a publication which would place their scripts within the ambit of October 1985. It consisted of 12 be freely available, and completely James’ vigilant scrutiny. A4 pages and sold for 24 pence. open to all local groups, was a most In 1995 James Flanagan paid The 2016 edition contained over 90 worthwhile thing,’ concluded Mr bountiful tributes to the printers pages and was on the bookshelves at Brady. and typesetters who had compiled €8 per copy. On the occasion of the It is most gratifying to note that the the finished typed editions of the launch Mr Nealon stated that ‘For inspirational sentiments of the Castle Herald during its first ten years. far too long the past doings of our Hotel speakers in October 1985 have These included Fastprint, Ballymote; localities have gone unrecorded and achieved fruition with 50 editions of Drumlin Publications, Manorhamilton so have been lost to posterity forever. The Corran Herald that have indeed and . Orbicon This need no longer happen. The adhered to the ideals of its founders, Print, Collooney, has executed the Ballymote Heritage Group is making design, typesetting and printing since sure it would not happen in this area.’ 2008. The cover design and artwork How prophetic! since 1995 have been the work of The MC Mr Tom McGettrick said Brenda Friel, Ballymote and Dingle. that the purpose of the publication Eileen Tighe has noted the was two-fold: ‘To reflect the interests extraordinary variety and range and ideals of the Heritage Group in of articles documenting local life, all matters cultural, historical, and history, archaeology, poetry, music, archaeological and to reflect the folklore and education that have achievements, the potential and the been featured in The Corran Herald needs of the local community of today. since 1985. What has most impressed It could be a platform to all local me has been the body of compatible groups in which they might inform the graphics – the photographs, drawings area about their purposes and aims, and maps that illustrate the textual their problems and their needs.’ Judge Keenan Johnson proposed contributions and categorically Welcoming the publication of The The Corran Herald as the title of Corran Herald, the chairman of our journal 6 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 and have reached readers in many far- leading literary lights of our journal Gaffney (journalist), Eoin Butler flung Irish homes across the globe. since 1985 and these people have (journalist), Michael Bell, Gregory While our cohort of regular set the tone and shown the qualities Daly, PJ Duffy (Killaville), Padraig contributors has laboured consistently that other writers soon realised they G. Lane, James Reddiough, Padraig in the interests of The Corran Herald needed to emulate. Feehily, Máire McDonnell-Garvey, since 1985, one of the writers in Since over 500 people were Jim Foran (Editor, Sligo Field Club the first edition is certainly worthy involved in the 50 editions of the Journal), Ted Nealon TD (Minister for of note. This person was a young Herald, some on just one occasion Culture), Aidan Mannion, Gertrude Gurteen teenager with literary and others ranging from two efforts O’Reilly, John Higgins, Jim Higgins, ambitions by the name of Eamonn to 28 entries, it would be invidious of Tommy Kilcoyne and Rory O’Beirne. Sweeney, who submitted his version me to acknowledge the work of some of the Gurteen Community News. of them and ignore the contributions (B): The adult writers are as follows: Significantly Eamonn is now a prize- of others. Accordingly I have decided Alfie Banks, Eamonn Barnes DPP, winning journalist with the Sunday to further outline the names of all Kevin Barton, Gordon Beaumont, Independent specialising in matters contributors in four categories. (A) Eugene Benson, Johnny Benson, of sport, and he is also a published Contributors who have also written Norah Bermingham, Des Black, novelist. or edited published books themselves Edward Blake, Elizabeth Boyle, As a matter of fact I am delighted (B) All adult writers excluding those Gráinne Brehony, Jack Brehony, Anne to observe and acknowledge that over in category A (C) Contributors who Brennan, Willie Burke, Gareth Byrne, 500 people have contributed to The only submitted photographs, and (D) Donough Cahill, Eugenie Carr, Gerry Corran Herald in some way since Student writers. Cassidy, Rosie Cassidy, David Casey, 1985. Some of these people were ten- Stan Casey, Mary Cawley, Molly year-old poets in the local primary (A): Martin A Timoney has edited and Cawley, MB Ní Chianáin, Sr Phil school while others were professional published a number of significant and Clancy, Eamonn Cody, Tom Coen, archaeologists, university academics absorbing collections that investigate Brendan Coleman, Bridie Colleran, and administrators at national level. the archaeology and history of Co Don Conlon, Fr Patrick Conlon OFM, We had shopkeepers and journalists, Sligo. Mary B Timoney is the author of Niamh Conlon, Ann Conlon, Anne students and teachers, politicians and a distinguished volume that provides Conlon, Batty Connell, Mick Connell, the man and woman in the street, excellently drawn narratives of the Dr. Kieran Cooke, Paddy Cooney, scientists, handymen and housewives, grave memorials of Murtagh Corcoran, Joe Coulter, farmers, fishermen and their advisors, and of Ballintuber old Graveyard Kathleen Cryan, Barthly Cryan, athletes, golfers, handballers and and the Grave memorials of County Patrick F Cryans, J Anthony Cuming, footballers, adult poets, story-tellers, . John Coleman, a recent John Cunningham, Martin Curley, curates and bishops, computer experts, chairman of Ballymote Heritage Philomena Currid, James Davey, John cursive script writers and writers with Group, will publish in the near Davey, Tom Davey, John Dayton, published books –people from every future the story of Sir Charles Coote, Kate Denison-Bell, John M Dennedy, walk of life expressing their opinions Earl of Bellamont. Other published John Doddy, Padraig Doddy, Mary in prose, verse and letters to the editor, authors were Malcolm Billings, B Doddy, Fiona Doherty, Clare carefully outlining their discoveries Padraig Deignan (Sligo historian), Doohan, Brian , Bernie after exhaustive research, and John Garvin (Joycean scholar), Doyle, Ciara Doyle, Dessie Doyle, presenting their fascinating stories Cian Harte ( military Padraig Duffy, Mairéad Dunleavy, Fr with colour and drama. history), Michael Farry (Co. Sligo John Durkan, Martin Enright, Joyce If commitment to The Corran 1913 – 1923) & , Martin Enright, Kathleen Fairbanks, Neal Herald were a competitive activity Healy (Cloonlurg short story writer), Farry, Marie Farry-Finlay, Barry Fell, the gold medal would certainly go James McGuinn (Co Sligo in WWI), Cassie Finn, Seamus Finn, Richard to the late PJ Duffy of Killaville Dr Patrick Heraughty UCD, Cecil Fitzgerald, Kathleen Fitzmaurice, who submitted 58 articles. Martin A King (Ballymote journalist), Brian James Flanagan, Anne Flanagan, Timoney of Keash would be in second Leyden (novelist), John C McTernan Stephen Flanagan, Cathy Flynn, place with 39 submissions and the late (Co Sligo historian), Joe McGowan Jack Flynn, Mairéad Flynn, Bishop Tom McGettrick of Ballymote after (culture and history of Co Sligo), Thomas Flynn, Canon Robert Flynn, 34 contributions, would reside in the Dr Charles Mount (archaeologist), Brendan Friel, Nicky Furlong, Ida Jane bronze medal position. If gives me Prof Nollaig O Muraílle, Prof Nial Gallagher, Margaret Galvin, Bernie great pleasure to declare that the three Friel (mathematical journals), Nuala Gilbride, Francis Gilbride, Collette parishes of Corran have produced the Rogers (Ballymote historian), Mary Gildea-Noone, Des Gilhawley, Ursula 7 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

Gilhawley, Eugene Gillan, Cecily O’Dowd, Peadar O’Dowd, Maura Library, Tommy Dyer, James Eccles, Gilligan, Jack Gilligan, PJ Gilmartin, O’Gara-O’Riordan, Ethna O’Grady, Annie Finan, Margaret Flannery, Hans Goransson, Mrs Gormley Noel O’Neill, Sandy Perceval, Foley-Kilgannon Collection, Donal (Carrawloughlin), Joan Gleeson, Yvonne Perceval, Bridget Perry, John Gallagher, Mary Gilhawley, Mary Mary Guckian, Bridie Gunning, Eoin Perry, TJ Perry, Tom Pilkington, Una Gilligan, Betty Golden, Teresa Halpin, George Hamilton, Malcolm Preston, Pat Prince, Adrian Regan, Harwood, Frances Heneghan, Hamilton, Michael Hannan, Michael Leo Regan, Michael F Regan, Mary Maura Horan, Paddy Horan, Irish Hannon (Keenaghan), John Hannon Reynolds, Máire Ní Riain, Michael Architectural Archive, Marie (Keenaghan), PJ Hannon, Lynda Roberts, Carmel Rogers, Maeve Johnson, Gerry Keaney, Peter Kearns, Hart, Alison Healy, Brigid Healy, Rogers, Michael Rogers, Fr Pat Jack Kerins, Bridget Kielty, Kilcaldy Dan Healy, Rev John Healy, John Rogers CP, Phil Rogers, Monsignor Museum, Louise King, Brendan Heuston, Harry Horan, Paddy Horan, Val Rogers, Diana Ross, Emer Ryan, Lavin, , Charlie Lyons, Kevin Houser, Molly Howard, Brenda Therese Ryan, JP Scanlon, Dr Matthias Sr. Regina Lydon, Kathleen Martyn, Howley, Pat Hughes, Geraldine Hunt, Schouten, Annie Shorthouse, Albert Noreen McCrossan, The McDermott Gabriel Johnson, Keenan Johnson, Siggins, Mairéad Slattery-Cormican, Family, Noel McDermott, Michael Jack Johnston, Vincent Jordan, Batt Ben Smith, Nancy Smyth, Eamonn McDonagh, Peggy McGettrick, Joan Keaney, Harry Keaney, Tom Keane, Stafford, John Stewart, Nellie Tansey, McGowan, Maisie McGovern, Ivan Margaret Kearns, Martin Kellegher, Michael Tarmey, John Taylor, Eileen McNulty, Brian Meehan, Microsoft Mary Kelly-White, Theresa Kelly, Tighe, Sgt Sean Tighe, Vincent Tighe, Bing Maps, Richard Molloy, Carmel Sonia Kelly, Brigid Kielty, Jim Kielty, Catherine HM Timoney, Bridget Mullen, Eddie Mullen (Emlagh), James P Kilcoyne, John Kilcoyne, Timoney, Frank Tivnan, Gerard Tonry, Paddy Mullen, James Mulligan, Bridget King, Denis Killoran, Sr. Nesta Tuomey, Ailín Ní hUiginn, Jane Seaton F Mulligan, National Library of Roch Kissane, Rosemary Kitchin, Vial, Clare Walsh, John P Walsh, Ireland, National Museum of Ireland, Shiela Kivlehan, John Langan, Declan Lesley Webb, Bernadette White, Patti O’Connor, Peter O’Connor, Mae Lavin, Michael Lavin, Tommy Lavin, Brendan White, Martin Wilson, Mary O’Donnell, Mary O’Dowd, Peter Tom Lavin, Law Society Gazette, Leo Yulo. O’Rourke, Debbie Perceval, Agnes Leyden, Pat Leyden, Trudy Lomax, Rogers, Stephen Rogers, Royal Irish Anne , Una Mallon-Hoey, (C) Photographs: The majority Academy, May Reynolds, Gabrielle Bernie Martin-Birney, Colette Martin, of the adult writers also submitted Shiels, Sligo Champion, Sligo Jack Martin, Mary Martin (Máire photographs that were most helpful County Library, Sligo Field Club, Uí Mháirtín), Mary Mathews, Leo and indeed essential to provide Una Skinner, N.W. Sprinks, Dolores Mattimoe, Gerry McCarthy, Fr Liam illumination with their texts. Taheny, Vera Taheny, Barry Tighe, McDermott, Padraig McDermott, Accordingly I have omitted their Nance Tighe, Villanova University, Andy Joe McDonagh, Conor names in the following list of Peggy Walsh, Gerry White, Tom McDonagh, Colette McDonagh, John acknowledgements in the interests of Wynne (Lisananny). McDonagh, Liam McDonagh, Terry saving space, and I have just identified McDonagh, David McEllin, Jim those people or sources that have not (D) Students: A number of students McGarry, Dr Bart McGettrick, Eddie been the providers of written texts. from the four Ballymote Schools, McGettrick, Martin McGettrick, These are as follows: Army Museum ie Scoil Mhuire gan Smál NS, Martin McGoldrick, John McGrath, (England), Ballymote Heritage Knockminna NS, Coolbock NS, Pat McGrath, Feagh McHugh, Patricia Window Exhibition ’96, Ballymote Coláiste Mhuire and Corran College, McNally, Christina McNamara, Gathering Photo Exhibition (Mary as well as from two national schools Michael J Meehan, Mercy Sisters Cawley), Pam Benson, Mary Black, in Lucan and West Dublin, submitted (Ballymote), Miriam Moffitt, Neil Pearse Brady, British Museum, interesting and well-crafted articles Mongey, Sam Moore, Camilla Annette Caffrey, Sean and Mae Carty, for publication in The Corran Morrison, Margaret Muldoon, Ned Tilly Casey MPSI, Esther Cassidy, Herald during its earlier years. Here Mullen, Pat Mullen, Rosaleen Mullen, Maureen Carr-Shiels, John Cawley following are the names of these MJ Mulligan, Rev Tom Mulligan, NT, Sr Nell Chambers, Brendan young people, most of whom have Frank Mulvey, Maureen Murphy, Colbert, Coleman Centre (Gurteen), now reached adulthood: Conor Booth, Michael Murphy, Sandra Murphy, Paddy Conboy, J Condon, Betty Paul Brennan, Turlough Brennan, Elizabeth Murray, Ronan Murtagh, Conlon, James Connolly, Kathleen Pauline Brett, Tony Burns, Clare Pat O’Brien, Bridget O’Connell, Don Cryan, Mona Cryan, Aine Daly, Clinton, Orla Cryan, April , O’Connor, Fiona O’Connor, Dermot Derek Davey, Paddy Duffy, Derek Ciara Doyle, Marie Donohoe, Enda O’Donnell, Mary O’Donnell, Larry Droughton, Dunfermline Carnegie Fallon, Molly Finn, Patricia Flanagan, 8 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

Stephen Flannery Jr., Brian Flynn, to ignoring the work of the great number of lines from the ballad: Aidan Foley, Eilish Friel, Nial Friel, majority of people who have provided Jenny Gallagher, Mary Gallagher, the literary substance of The Corran I’ve been on the hill now for many a Oliver Gethins, Joanne Gilligan, Herald during the past 32 years. year Alison Healy, Noelle Healy, Shaunna In 1995 James Flanagan informed But the boss says he’ll sell me and he Healy, Deirdre Horan, Dermot Hurley, us that the first 10 issues of The means it, I fear Diane Keevans, Jackie Kerins, Maura Corran Herald could then be accessed I see by Old Moore there’s a fair in Killoran, Helen Loughlin, Conor in bound form in Ballymote and the town Maguire, Naomi Martin, Brian Sligo Libraries and in the National Tomorrow methinks he’ll be driving McDermott, Gerard McGettrick, Library. Since 2016 all issues of the me down Declan McGrath, Niamh Mongey, Herald have been on-line and can be So goodbye, beannacht leat, Dear Lee Muldoon, Sandra Murphy, Sinéad downloaded by keying in ‘The Corran Keash Hill of the coves Weir, Bridget Timoney, Catherine Herald’ on one’s smartphone, tablet, No more shall I skip through your rd H.M. Timoney, Fiona Rogers, 3 & laptop or desktop computer. heathery groves th 4 classes SMGS Ballymote – joint When I read the anonymous ballad Me sheep’s eyes fill with tears and me poem. The Sheep’s Farewell to Keash Hill lavin’ the fun It may seem excessive to pay due in Issue No. 13, I begin to totally It’s the best place in Ireland, Keash, regard in print to the efforts, great comprehend the harmonious bonds bar none. and small, of such a large number and profound merriment which As I told you above, to the butcher’s of enthusiastic scribes. To fail to do reside in the hearts and minds of the I’m bound so, however, or to merely observe people of Corran and that lead them But I’ll be back here next week at four the offerings of our elite, whoever to espouse living in and loving their shillings a pound they may be, would be tantamount native place. I conclude by quoting a

The changing world of the telephone By Bernie Gilbride

Today it’s difficult to imagine a still with a handle to wind but much phones. Having no wires, they fit world without phones, but they really clearer and more convenient. After snugly into pockets or handbags and seemed magical when we got our first another year or two the Office connect directly with whom we wish one way back in the early 50s. removed the handle, replacing it with to speak. No go-between or exchange We knew all about the wonderful a flat face dial and finger slots to be lady now. invention by Bell in 1876, and had moved around. The modern phone The powers that be tell me our learned that his first message along was gradually coming into being. television sets will be our modern the wire was, ‘Mr Watson, come We had that phone until a few years house phone, activated by voice, here, I want you.’ Edison improved ago. It was a very solid job, black in having the person with whom we on the invention so much that phones colour and very weighty, with a most speak on screen. No more answering became very common and popular. distinctive tone and ring, so much so the phone with hair in curlers, or Our first phone hung on the wall. that I seldom needed to give my name wearing the old comfy dressing- It had a handle one wound to get the as family and friends recognised the gown. It will be only full gear, make- attention of the lady at the exchange, tone. Eventually it lost its sound and up, the lot, when this becomes the through which all calls were made had to be replaced. vogue, alas! at that time. This could take quite The new phone is gleaming white, I wonder will I live long enough to a few minutes if she was busy. The with more buttons than I know what to see this change and if I don’t, I do hope voice of the person on the other end do with. It has a lovely light handset, the phone company up above has been was often crackly and indistinct, but unlike the old one which was so heavy doing its research and keeping up with nevertheless a phone was a marvellous one’s arm would be dead if one had a modern developments, and I am not new way to communicate, especially long conversation with a friend. back again winding handles. long distance or abroad. Now I believe even this modern one After a couple of years this model is about to become obsolete. Already was replaced with a table phone, our mobiles are replacing our house

9 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Trial and error: The Second Marquis of Sligo

By Malcolm Billings

I confess that I shuddered a little walking into this famous building. There is nothing cosy about its echoing Victorian entrance, the grand hall, and the corridors that lead to the courts are carpeted but stark. The courtrooms have a ‘no nonsense’ feel about them. Inevitable, I suppose, given that some of the most notorious criminals end up here. The role-call inlcudes murderers such as Dr Crippen and John Christie. William Joyce, who broadcast Nazi propaganda, and was called Lord Haw Haw, was tried here after the Second World War. Four centuries of crooked politicians and paedophiles also met Justice here. I was not on trial when I sat on a bench in Number 1 court, along with Westport House, Co Mayo many paying members of the public, Westport house, the seat of the the Old Bailey – the Central Criminal to see a re-enactment of a trial that Marquis of Sligo, changed hands Court – in the City of London. In took place in 1812. In the dock was the in January 2017. It had been in the this building, and its predecessors, flamboyant Second Marquis of Sligo, Browne family for almost 300 years. some of the most spectacular villains standing trial for hijacking several of In affluent times the best architects over the centuries have been tried, the crew of two British naval vessels. of the day remodelled the house and convicted, imprisoned, and, after their But what on earth was going on here? successive generations stuffed it with trial, executed at Newgate prison. The old Bailey raises money for superb furniture and objects. good causes and the re-enactments are Most of the furniture and fittings a comparatively new idea to capitalise went with the sale of the house to a on a wealth of material in which, local family in the tourism business. we, the public, could play a part. I The Hughes family own and run the glanced around the court at severe successful Hotel Westport along with looking judges, court officials, and other businesses in Ireland. It looks the barristers for the prosecution and like a neat fit for Westport, although defence. They were not actors but the many people interested in the survival real thing! Many were retired judges and protection of Ireland’s heritage and barristers who were interested in lobbied hard to persuade the state to acting and who dabbled in amateur acquire the house and estate. As it is, theatricals. The Old Bailey had a modest acreage was bought by the scooped them up to take part in the re- Irish Government and the Hughes enactments. Group has announced an intention to Defence Council Messrs Dauncy, invest €50 million to develop tourism Dampier and Scarlets sought to in the area. convince the jury that the noble My interest in the second Marquis Marquis had no knowledge of the of Sligo was sparked by an event at The Old Bailey, London alleged bribery and corruption,

10 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 pointing out that he was a very young ship the Pylades, along with a large faced trial at the Old Baily. However man, newly come from the seats of number of antiquities he had collected the young earl was hardly restrained, learning and who only wished to add along the way in Greece. His charted and was free to come and go until the to his knowledge of history. ship could only be described as a rust trial began. He kept himself busy: “I True up to a point, as I discovered bucket with an incompetent, drunken won a bet that I could not gallop my from digging into the background crew. And that’s where the legal path coach from London to Holyhead in of the case against the Marquis. He began that led to the dock in the Old 35 hours. I won and I was a thousand had followed in the footsteps of Lord Bailey in 1812. Sligo (i.e. the Marquis) guineas better off.” Elgin (of Parthenon marbles fame) to needed a competent and trustworthy When the case came to be heard in a site in Greece that also fascinated crew and he rashly resorted to a press Court, the Defence Council argued the young Marquis – the impressive gang. the Earl’s innocence, but was not beehive construction believed to be the The court heard in evidence that successful. 12th century BC tomb of Agamemnon, the Marquis sent two of his liveried DEFENCE COUNCIL: “At a time king of the Greeks in Homer’s servants to persuade some naval when all this happened Lord Sligo Odyssey. Elgin had already dug his ratings from two British warships to was a very young man, hardly come way into the tomb and had extracted join his lordship’s enterprise. Plied of age and had hired a brig for the some architectural fragments but not with drink the sailors woke up the purpose of making a voyage through the fabled treasure. next day when the Pylades was at the Mediterranean and visiting the Greek islands so famous in ancient history. Newly come from the seats of learning, such was the laudable object in which he was in eager pursuit. No motives of disloyalty could be imputed on behalf of my client; let me say his offence was against the letter of the law. He is anxious to be liberated of deliberate seduction and trusts the jury to deliver a verdict in his favour.” SLIGO: “I wish to express contrition for my folly and rashness, my lord.” FOREMAN OF THE JURY: “Guilty.” THE JUDGE, Sir William Scott: “I have now to discharge the painful duty of pronouncing upon your lordship the sentence of the law. To descend to The Tomb of Agamemnon in Greece practices of artifice and dissimulation The Marquis had gained the ear of sea, so the deal was done, along with to accomplish so unworthy a design, a local official and mounted his own enticement of money and clothes. is surely little becoming to the title exploration, focusing on the imposing After a chase across the sea, the that you bear. But my lord from the green marble pillars at the entrance. Marquis was arrested for this crime – penitence you have shown, the court The following quotes are based on especially serious in time of war. may be satisfied that you are prepared published Old Bailey records, as told When the trial began, evidence in future to set a bright example by the re-enactment. about locking the ratings below deck to your fellow subjects. And that a The Marquis of Sligo: “My men to keep them out of sight when the painful admonition should be given in went to work with pick axes and Pylades was inspected by a naval your person as a warning to those who saws and wrenched the pillars from boarding party proved to be damaging hereafter might be tempted to offend. the tomb ready to be loaded into my to his Lordship’s plea of innocence. “The court has therefore ordered ship. Thoughtless greedy vandalism? Added to this was the fact that, that you, the Marquis of Sligo, pay to Certainly not! I was saving them for sensing deeper trouble, he had them your sovereign Lord, the King, a fine posterity as Lord Elgin had done some put ashore and then set sail leaving of £5,000 and that you be committed years earlier with the marbles on the them stranded. The sailors made their to His Majesty’s Prison of Newgate Parthenon in Athens.” way to the nearest British consul and for four calendar months until such The pillars were loaded onto his raised the alarm. Sligo was caught and fine be paid.”

11 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

His Lordship bowed and was was more like a bawdy house banquet Once released, the saga of the boyish conducted from the bar. with as much claret as a man could wealthy land owner (he had had no However, conditions must have possible want.” trouble paying the fine) took what we been tolerable at Newgate, according As for the marble pillars, they might describe as a Barbara Cartland to a comment attributed to Baron disappeared into the basement of twist. The Earl’s mother, the Dowager Broughton, a Member of Parliament Westport House, to be rediscovered Marchioness, who had attended all the and friend of Byron. “I had dinner 90 years later and presented to the sessions of the trial, announced that with the Marquis of Sligo last night, British Museum. she planned to marry the Judge who on 17 February. To my astonishment it had successfully protected her son from the full rigours of the law. The Marquis’s spell in prison seemed to mark a change in his life. His career prospects were enhanced and he was appointed governor of Jamaica. He was the first of the plantation landowners to set free his slaves after 1833, when slaving was abolished by act of Parliament. The Marquis helped a fellow landowner to establish the first town for freed slaves. He is remembered in Jamaica today as the Great Emancipator. The town called Sligoville still thrives as I discovered when I visited to record a heritage programme for the BBC. My producer, Brigid O’Hara, and I, called at Sligoville’s secondary school where the head teacher mustered the school choir. She told us that when the 11th Marquis of Sligo, Jeremy Ullick Browne (1939-2014), visited the school a few years before us, some children, who knew the family as Browne, and pronounced it ‘Brownee’, held hands with the famous visitors declaring “Brownee, that’s our name! We must be related. The marble pillars now at the British Museum (Picture by author)

Remembering Eugene Gillan The members of Ballymote Heritage Kerry, Inishtrahull, off Donegal and were ‘The Island of Inistearacht’, Group were deeply saddened to the Old Head of Kinsale. Eugene ‘Dominic Gilligan and the United hear of the death Eugene Gillen last was a founder member of the Kinsale Irishmen’, ‘Dr. Dominic Burke’, ‘The December in Kinsale. Eugene was a Museum and he was curator of that Aud’, ‘The Wailing Women’, ‘The native of . He worked museum for many years. He was a Duirling Boats’, ‘Margaret Logan’, with the Irish Lights organisation. regular speaker at cultural events and ‘The Gillan Longcars’ and ‘Journey He served in many lighthouse he contributed articles to a number to Belmullet’. Ar dheis Dé go raibh stations around the Irish coast and he of historical and cultural journals. a anam. particularly loved the lighthouses on Among the articles that Eugene remote islands such as Tiaracht, off published in ‘The Corran Herald’

12 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 The rich history of Earlsfield House, Ballymote

By Sr Nell Chambers

The stately Earlsfield House, which the gate lodge and the main house. by low golden box-hedges gave was the home of the Sisters of Mercy While the primary school was being colour and richness to the garden. The for over a hundred years, has a long refurbished in 1951 we had class in garden was always alive with bees history. It was built in 1775 by the this wood. Each pupil brought a light and butterflies. An interesting feature Fitzmaurices. The story is told that the wooden box to sit on. If the weather of the garden was the greenhouse at stones were taken from the old castle was wet we went either to the Loftus the very end of the garden, where and the Franciscan Abbey to build Hall or the basement of the convent. black and green grapes hung from the Earlsfield House. The parish priest, My biggest thrill was to visit the ceiling and potted plants were laid Rev Andrew Donlevy PP, protested walled garden carefully tended by out in neat rows on a long table. We on account of the Abbey stones, and Paddy Killoran. I can still remember bought a bag of apples for a few pence his words were prophetic: ‘You have the perfumed scent of the fruit and and in time got to know the tree with taken stones from a consecrated flowers on opening the latch of the the sweetest apples! The grapes were building; they shall one day revert little wooden door leading into the not for sale but Paddy Killoran who to a consecrated community.’ The garden. It was like stepping into lived a few doors away from me often Sisters of Mercy took up residence in paradise, as the sun always seemed threw a small bunch into my bag of Earlsfield House in 1904. to shine in the garden. Apple and pear apples – a great treat for any youngster. Thomas Fitzmaurice, son of John trees lined the walls, blackcurrant and Sadly this all disappeared, apart from Fitzmaurice, 1st Earl of Shelbourne, gooseberry bushes were divided by the garden wall. The wooded area on built Earlsfield House in 1775. The neat little paths. A variety of flowers the entrance avenue was cleared to town and surrounding area was and shrubs in flowerbeds bordered make way for the secondary school bought in 1745 by John Fitzmaurice, 1st Earl of Shelbourne (1706-1761), and second son of the 1st Earl of Kerry, and probably for this reason they named the estate Earlsfield Estate and the house Earlsfield House. The name is still in use in the area. John Petty Fitzmaurice brought the linen industry to Ballymote and he brought Protestant families from Ireland to run it. Local people also worked in the linen factories, mostly women. He had houses built for them in what is still sometimes called Newtown. However, for the most part he was an absentee landlord and had installed James Bridgeham, Esq, Brigade- Mayor of Yeomanry for the County of Sligo in Earlsfield House as their deputy and lord-of-the-manor. Earlsfield House is situated on a hill with a panoramic view of the town. As a youngster in the 1950s I remember the quaint little gate lodge where Paddy Golden and his wife lived. A wooded area stretched out between A view of the building from the air (image from myhome.ie) 13 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 and the gate lodge was demolished at House to cheer and acknowledge the was opened by Dr Douglas Hyde, first a later date. However, the house is still kindness of Sir Henry Gore-Booth. As President of Ireland, in 1934. extant, and despite a few structural a youngster, the hill leading up to the A private secondary school had changes on the inside it still retains original convent entrance was called existed in the town since 1939 and some distinctive characteristics of the ‘The Captain’s Brae’, now renamed was situated in the middle house big house – the spiral staircase leading Pearse Road. Slater records Earlsfort of the three houses built by John to the landing of the main bedrooms, House as the seat of Francis Gethin Thomas Regan on the Keash Road, the servants’ quarters on the other side in 1894. The Land (Purchase) Act of now occupied by Mr Padraic Golden. of the house, the narrow back-stairs 1903 set the conditions for the break- The school was set up by Miss Rose used by the servants, the big kitchen up of large estates and gradually Gonley. Miss Consie Connelly, and food storeroom in the basement, devolved to rural landowners and who later married the businessman the cellar now converted into a small tenants ownership of the lands. Mr Paddy Rogers, taught in it. Mrs storeroom for cleaning agents and The Sisters of Mercy came to Una Price Connolly RIP who lived recycling bins, a reception room Ballymote in 1902 at the invitation in Carrownanty also taught in the off the front hall and a large room of Canon Loftus PP, after whom school in 1941. Sr Assumpta Brehony (possibly a drawing-room) which is the Loftus Hall is named. When the attended this school as did Evelyn now the chapel, and other rooms that Sisters came, they lived in Castle Kerins from Carrigans who later could tell their own story. Lodge near Ballymote Castle. They became a Franciscan Missionary. In 1833 the town of Ballymote and opened a private school for girls in In September 1942 the Sisters of the Fitzmaurices’ properties changed Castle Lodge and later moved to the Mercy opened a secondary school in ownership. Sir Robert Gore-Booth, Loftus Hall, which was the parish Ballymote. Sr Francis Keating was the grandfather of Countess Markievicz, chapel before the new Church of principal of the new secondary school. bought the estate for 130,000 pounds. the Immaculate Conception was A room in the convent was used as a In the mid 19th century Earlsfeld consecrated in 1864. The Newtown classroom as well as a small building House was the home of the Dodwell school of the 1840s moved to this old at the back of the convent which family, agents of many great estates RIC chapel in 1864 (later the Loftus was originally a glasshouse. In 1943 in the west of Ireland. Captain George Hall). Michael Doyle, who was co- work started on the conversion of the Dodwell acted as an agent for Sir founder of the INTO, taught in this glasshouse into a solid classroom, so Robert Gore Booth who too was an school. His statue is in Teeling Street. the school moved into ‘Beechmount absentee landlord for the most part, The Sisters of Mercy resided in House’, a house next to the cinema spending his time in Westminster. Castle Lodge near the Church and where Mrs Kathleen Cryan lived until This was a time of poverty and misery the parish priest lived in Earlsfield she passed away this year. Sr Ursula for the tenants, confirmed in a letter of House. In order to be near the church Flannery taught in Beechmount thanks for donations for the ‘starving he exchanged houses with the sisters, House. The school moved back to the poor of the parish’, to the editor of The who paid him £2,000 for the bigger new classroom in 1944. Miss Gonley’s Freeman’s Journal by Fr Denis Tighe residence. The Sisters moved to school closed and she moved to the PP of Ballymote in 1863. When Sir Earlsfield House in 1904. An armchair convent school. She taught a sister Robert died in 1876, Sir Henry Gore- with an engraving ‘Céad Míle Fáilte of Sr Rosarii Cryan in the convent Booth inherited the estate. He was 1904’ still remains in the Convent school – Nance Tighe, still living in an explorer, but when in Sligo was Chapel. Ballymote. Miss Una Price taught in very interested in his tenants and was In 1915 Canon Batty Quinn PP had the convent for three months before described by The Sligo Champion on the present Girls’ Primary School emigrating to the Isle of Wight, 6 Dec 1879 as a ‘kind and generous built on the Earlsfield Estate land, and England. Mrs Price Connolly died in landlord’. By 1879 he had most of the the Sisters moved from the Loftus 2017. Mrs Consie Connelly Rogers, rents down to the Griffith Valuation, Hall to the new Primary school. The who had married, gave up teaching for which Davitt and Parnell had only boys’ Primary School, which is now in 1941. Colaíste Muire was one of just begun to fight for, on the Land the Pastoral Centre, was built in 1914, the first voluntary secondary schools, League platforms, throughout the and the boys moved from the Loftus in the West of Ireland, to become co- rest of Ireland. This same year while Hall to the new school. In the 1920s educational in 1955. staying in Earlsfield House, as a guest Mr Quigley had a small school in his In the 1930s and 1940s Mrs William of his agent, Captain Gethin, hundreds home in Teeling Street, catering for Pettipiece, who lived near the primary of tenant farmers from the countryside around 15 pupils who had finished in school, brought down the turf in the flocked into Ballymote and marched the primary school. The Vocational morning to light the stoves in the in torchlight procession to Earlsfield School, one of the first in Co Sligo, classrooms of the convent primary

14 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 school. I remember the stoves when while she gave the lesson. Sr Jarlath Sr Margaret Mc Cann I was in the junior classes and the Moran, who worked in the convent Sr Bernadette Mc Carrick country children drying their clothes kitchen, kept a juicy bone for him. Sr Mary Coyle at them, when they got wet, having The door is now blocked up and the Sisters who worked in the Secondary walked to school in the rain. The music room is an office. School classrooms got storage heating in the In the 1970s Aideen Gore-Booth, a Sr M Frances Keating-1942 early 1950s. niece of Countess Markievicz, who Sr M Ursula Flannery-1942 A lady named Jane O’Keeffe who lived in Lissadell House, visited the Sr M Albeus O’ Halloran was deaf and dumb will be fondly convent a few times. She was a very Sr M Parick Cawley-Principal remembered by pupils of the primary gracious lady and was very kind to the Sr Regina Lydon school in the 1950s and 1960s. We had students. I was brought on a visit to Sr Assumpta Brehony our own sign language with Jane and Lissadell House from Ballaghaderreen Sr Teresa Nugent she had signs to identify the sisters in the 1980s. She allowed them to Sr Virigilius Watson in the school and also Monsignor play the piano that WB Yeats played Sr Paul Kerins Roughneen. We were kept au fait with when he stayed there. A French Sr Veronica Cassidy-Principal some of their comings and goings. couple, direct descendants of the Sr Ann O’Connor When the lunch bell rang, Jane would Fitzmaurices, also came to see the Sr James Lothar always appear with a big jug of piping convent in the 1970s. Sr Vincent Horan hot cocoa from the convent, for all Who knows what future lies ahead Sr Athanatius Reynolds who couldn’t go home for lunch. Jane for Earlsfield House! My wish is that Sr Bernadette O’Grady-Principal was from Thomastown and is buried it will again change ownership as in Sr Scholastica Mc Cann in Ballymote. the past and live a full and fruitful life. Sr Ethna O’Grady Another feature of convent life in Sr Agatha Durkin the 1940s and 50s was the laundry Sisters who worked in the Primary Sr Kathleen Shiels-Principal situated at the back of the convent, School Sr Attracta Shiels which gave employment to ladies Sr Margaret Mary Daly – 1902 Sr Margaret Mc Cann from the surrounding area: Mrs Sr Vincent Ahearn – 1902 Sr Phyllis Kilcoyne-Principal Martin Davey and Joanie Brennan, Sr Patricia Moylan – 1902 Sr Neil Chambers Marren Park, Mrs Coyle and Mrs Sr Calasanctius Cassidy – 1902 (on Sr Mary Leavy Margaret Coen, Deroon, worked in loan from the Convent of Mercy, Sr Margaret Killoran-Principal the laundry. Sr Catherine Kennedy set Tralee) Sr Loreto Hogge-Principal up the laundry in an old galvanised Sr M Aloysius O’Connell Sr Dominic O’Shaughnessy iron shed which had been used for Sr Raphael Scollard Sr Benedict Sheridan grinding corn on the estate. She also Sr M Baptist Whelan helped young people find placements Sr M Eden Casey Other Sisters who lived in Ballymote in England to train as nurses. When Sr Mary de Sales Gould Convent Sr Catherine was transferred to Sr Mary Laurentia Dore Sr Teresita Casey Collooney in the early 40s, Sr Brendan Sr Mary Patrick O’ Malley-Principal Sr Immaculata Durkin Sweeney took her place in the laundry. Sr M Stanislaus O’ Halloran Sr Attracta Kilcawley Vincent Finan collected and delivered Sr M Philomena O’Dea Sr Joachim Gallagher the laundry in the town in a small van, Sr M Bernadette Dorr Sr Aine Mc Garty drawn by a donkey, as did John Mc Sr M Gabriel Kelly – Principal Sr Josephine Mc Cann Gettrick, who lived with Mrs Davey Sr Finian Kelly Sr Phil Clancy and her daughter Annie, at the time Sr Ann Houlihan Sr Mary Gallagher in the Convent gate lodge. Nothing Sr Rose Lafferty remains of the laundry now except a Sr M Agnes O’Grady-Principal Before the closure of the Convent high wall leading into a field. Sr M Gertrude Gallagher-Principal of Mercy in Ballymote in 2017, the On the garden side of the convent Sr Enda O’Donnell following Sisters lived there: were steps leading up to a music room. Sr Margaret Torsney-Principal In the early years of the convent, Sr Sr Goretti Chambers Sr Regina Leydon Vincent Ahearne taught music there. Sr Frances Mc Nicholas- Principal Sr Nell Chambers In the 1950s and 60s Sr Cecilia Sr Ann O’Connor –Principal Sr Loreto Hogge O’Halloran taught music there also. Sr Eileen Scanlon Sr Elizabeth Mc Nicholas Her dog sat outside the music room Sr Regina Leydon –Principal

15 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Porcelain’s Journey By Margaret Perry

I’ve been writing stories since childhood and I had been writing plays in earnest for about four years when my breakthrough came with a phone call from the Abbey Theatre saying they were going to produce my play Porcelain. Playwriting is a strange art; like all types of writing it is, at first, a solitary activity. Just you and the page. But a play is never finished until it’s placed in front of an audience, and the steps involved in getting it from the page to a room full of people are numerous and involve the creative brains of lots of other people – not only the actors and director, but producers, set, lighting Margaret Perry and sound designers, stage managers, who anyone really is – whether a least ten London theatres. Not every marketing teams, press officers, I constant and unchanging ‘you’ exists idea I have will stick, but this play could go on. As the opening night of at all. In the image of the changeling kept turning in the back of my mind. Porcelain drew close, I discovered that I found a way to explore these ideas And for every few ‘no’s, I got some one of the stage assistants had spent about depression and self on stage, by ‘maybe’s, and found mentors and his Saturday driving around Northern weaving Bridget’s story in 1895 with champions within the theatre industry. Ireland looking for wallpaper for the the story of Hat, a young Irish woman Their advice and encouragement stage that was the exact right shade living now who doesn’t feel ‘herself’ was crucial as I kept rewriting the of yellow. To have set such a huge either. script, getting each draft a little closer collaborative process in motion from To have my first professional to what I wanted to say and how I some words that I put on a page alone production of one of my plays at the wanted to say it. Having the play be in my bedroom, or in coffee shops, on Abbey was a dream come true in plucked from the pile and produced at the train, in snatched moments of time every respect. It is rare for a theatre our National Theatre in the space of over the four years it took me to write to produce a script sent to them out of a whirlwind three months felt like the this play, never fails to humble and the blue; it’s what every playwright moment when the top of a stubborn jar astonish me. hopes will happen when they send one seems to slip off easily, after hours of I wrote Porcelain because I wanted in. I am still pinching myself to have fruitless twisting. But I try to remind to talk about depression and the way had this happen to me. It has turned myself that it’s the twisting that did it, it can make you feel like a stranger playwriting from a dream into a real along with a little bit of luck. in your own skin. I came across the career for me (though I still have a I’ve got plenty of other ideas on story of Bridget Cleary in 2016, when part-time job to help pay the bills; it’s the boil at the moment and I hope I was 26, the age she was when she surely no surprise to anyone that it is Porcelain won’t be my last time at was burned to death by her husband in very, very hard to make a full-time the Abbey. Meanwhile, I am just 1895. She had been acting strangely living from writing plays alone). It happy to not need a full-time day job and taken to her bed. Her husband also meant the play was published, at the moment; the money I got from believed she had been stolen away so that it can be performed again in my Abbey commission has bought by the fairies and replaced by a future, I hope. me time and space to think, read and changeling – a sort of copy of her That being said, the myth of the write. To be able to spend most of these that looked and sounded just like ‘big break’ can sometimes elide the summer days at my desk, dreaming of her, but wasn’t really her. Michael amount of work it takes to get to a new stories to tell, is a gift. Dreaming thought Bridget was ‘not herself’; place where opportunity can find of that moment when the lights go I wondered if she might have been you. Before Porcelain was read by down, and we all sit waiting to watch depressed. I also started to wonder the Abbey, it was turned down by at a story unfurl from the dark.

16 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Intelligent, urbane, pompous and vain: The life of James Taaffe

By John C McTernan

The Taaffes, a family of Welsh origin, in theology in the newly-opened that had surfaced in the Irish church. established themselves in Ireland in Franciscan College in Paris, where Shortly afterwards he convened an the 13th century and quickly became he acted as confessor to Henrietta assembly of the Irish clergy and one of the most influential in the Maria, the widow of King Charles I. produced what he claimed was an country. A descendant, William She was then in exile in the French official copy of a Papal Bull appointing Taaffe, was given large tracts of land capital, an appointment that may well him Commissioner to Ireland. in various counties, including Sligo have resulted from the close ties that However, members of the hierarchy and in the vicinity of Ballymote in existed between the Taaffe family and doubted his accreditation and after particular, in return for his services English royalty. a series of complaints to Rome, the to the crown during the Nine Year’s His contemporaries in the Vatican made it known that Taaffe War and especially at Kinsale in Franciscan Order described Taaffe as had not been granted the powers he 1601, for which he was knighted for ‘intelligent and urbane’ and again as claimed. He eventually admitted his gallantry on the field of battle. He ‘pompous, vain and rather worldly’, that he had forged the Papal Bull died in 1630 and was succeeded by characteristics that did not endear and was recalled to Rome forthwith. his eldest son, John, who was created him to his Franciscan brethren. Be Thereafter, he took up residence at Baron of Ballymote and Earl of that as it may, he was certainly a very St Isidore’s College where he spent Carlingford in 1661 and also returned ambitious individual who lobbied the remainder of his life, effectively as a Member of Parliament for Sligo. long and widely for promotion to an under house arrest, until his death in On his death in 1677 he was buried in Irish bishopric. However, his family’s 1681. It was generally believed that the family crypt in Ballymote Abbey. close connection with English royalty the influence of the Taaffe family, and A younger brother, James Taaffe aroused the suspicion of both the Irish that of Count Edward Francis Taaffe (1623-1681), joined the Franciscan hierarchy and Papal officials, and his in particular, saved him from a worse Order and studied at both the desire remained unfilled. fate. Franciscan College at Prague and A year later in 1668 he arrived in at St Isidore’s in Rome. He was Ireland as a Papal envoy allegedly subsequently appointed lecturer to sort out a number of irregularities

Remembering John Hannon

It is with great sadness that the CBS, O’Connell Schools, Dublin and liked writing poetry. A number of members of Ballymote Heritage Coláiste Mhuire, Dublin. John also his poems have been published in the Group note the untimely death of John served as Principal of the School for Corran Herald. Travelling to many Hannon, The Courtyard, Ballymote the Deaf in Cabra. After his retirement foreign countries, collecting paintings and formerly of Keenaghan. After he worked as a study supervisor in St. and learning the Spanish language for completing his primary education Nathy’s College, Ballaghaderreen. four months in Spain were activities in Ballymote N.S. John joined the On completing his term of duty in St. that were dear to him. We extend Irish Christian Brothers. He spent Nathy’s John returned to Ballymote our sincere sympathy to his brothers, the best part of half a century on the where he was an active figure in the Michael, Joe and to his sister, Peggy missions. He also taught in a number Active Retirement Group. John was Walsh. Ar dheis Dé go raibh sé. of schools in Ireland, in Roscommon a prolific writer and he especially

17 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Parnell almost snatches victory from the jaws of defeat – The North Sligo by-election of 1891

By Padraig Deignan

In March 1891, with the death of to resign as leader of the IPP (Irish phase of the Land War. In November Peter McDonald, MP, ‘North Sligo Parliamentary Party) appeared in The 1890 Captain O’Shea’s case against was destined to become the scene of a Times on 26 November 1890, and Parnell’s adultery with his wife went fierce struggle between the Parnellites within a couple of days Archbishops to trial and the charges were declared and the Irish Party’.1 For a short time Croke and Walsh, as well as John proven; the public details of the affair in the spring of 1891 the constituency Dillon and William O’Brien, two destroyed Parnell’s political career was thrust to centre stage of the of his key IPP lieutenants, came out and leadership of the Irish party. battleground in the bitter conflict against Parnell, who had refused The Sligo Champion editorial of 13 between the supporters of Charles to leave voluntarily.2 At the end of December 1890 described the long Stewart Parnell, ‘the Uncrowned November the IPP debated the issue expected split in the IPP as ‘a day of King of Ireland’, and his opponents, of Parnell’s leadership. From the first shame and sorrow and tribulation for the anti-Parnellites under their leader until the sixth of December, 73 Irish Ireland’. Branches in Drumkerrin, Justin McCarthy. MPs met in Committee Room No 15 Killery, Drumlease, Highwood, of the House of Commons. Six MPs Carrigeeroe and Keash all adopted were in America on fund-raising resolutions calling for the retirement trips, five were ill, one was in prison of Mr Parnell from the leadership of connected with the Plan of Campaign the IPP. 5 and the MP for Kilkenny had died On 4 January 1891 a convention recently. On 6 December 1890, 45 of the IPP in Ballymote criticised MPs led by Justin MacCarthy walked Parnell’s leadership and called on out, while 27 MPs remained with Edmund Leamy, MP for South Sligo Parnell. 3 Timothy Healy and Michael and a Parnellite, to resign. 6 David Davitt opposed Parnell. 4 Sheehy and Daniel Crilly of the anti-

Katharine O’Shea, 1846-1921 When Parnell’s love affair with Katharine O’Shea became public, it had long been known by Gladstone and many Liberal MPs and Home Rule MPs. As long as it remained private they had no problems with it. On 17 November 1890 a divorce was granted to Katharine’s husband, Captain William O’Shea, but still Re-election of Parnell as leader of the IPP, committee room No. 15, House no one in Ireland had any major of Commons objections. However initial disgust As well as destroying the alliance Parnellite Party had made a mad rush over all this came from the British with Gladstone and the Liberals, to Sligo to rally support. Sheehy, Liberals and they called on Gladstone the O’Shea divorce case completely MP for South , claimed he to cut his ties with Parnell. Gladstone’s finished off the Plan of Campaign had followed Parnell loyally, but famous letter calling upon Parnell and brought to an end the second no longer; Parnell had put himself

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of Parnell. 10 The Sligo Champion editorial of 28 February 1891 declared that the Conservatives and Liberals were happy to see the people attacking each other over the Parnell trouble. 11 However, Parnell was determined to fight on and reassert his leadership over Irish Nationalism. After his defeat in the Kilkenny by-election a perfect opportunity arose when Peter McDonald, the sitting MP in north Sligo, died in March 1891. The Sligo Champion editorial on 21 March 1891 maintained that ‘Mr Parnell has acted in such a manner as to render it impossible that he can ever again possess the respect or confidence of the ’.12 The Sligo To Follow Parnell or the Cause? Champion argued that Parnell knew before the Party and Ireland. Crilly, funds, amounting to £50,000, in a his leadership would wreck the Home MP for North Mayo, attempted to Paris bank. This also had the effect Rule Party. He should have listened to curry favour with the clergy insisting of cutting the funding out from under Michael Davit ‘that he should retire’. that ‘if Home Rule is ever to be won, the Plan of Campaign and putting the On 19 March a convention held it must be through the medium of a final nail in its coffin. Parnell, always in the town hall selected Alderman strong and united Irish party, with focused on legislative independence, Bernard Collery of Sligo Corporation the people, priests and hierarchy had never been in favour of the Plan to represent the anti-Parnellite faction. of Ireland at its back’. In February, of Campaign anyway, and believed His nomination was supported by Bishop Laurence Gilhooly’s pastoral it was a drain on resources that could Bishop Gilhooly of Elphin who letter was published in the Sligo have been used to assist tenants maintained that ‘a Catholic people can Champion stating that ‘we fail to see generally. The evicted tenants of the never support a man who has brought how Mr Parnell can continue to lead Plan blamed Parnell for forcing the such social disgrace on himself, his a Catholic and Christian people’. 7 anti-Parnellites to freeze the party party and his country’. Bishop Lyster However, in the same breath Gilhooly funds which suspending financial of and most of the Catholic called for abstinence from the dispute. support for their campaign and they clergy also backed Collery. Usually After the failure of the Boulogne allied themselves with Dillon and the selection of an IPP candidate in negotiations from 30 December O’Brien. Sligo had to be approved by Parnell 1890 to 11 February 1891, which In mid-February the Irish National and Harrington – this was the first time were called to try and heal the split League branches in Sligo had met a local was selected by nationalists between the Parnellite and anti- to pass resolutions of condemnation to represent Sligo in parliament. Parnellite factions, the anti-Parnellites initiated measures to freeze the party

Bishop of Elphin Dr Laurence Parnell refusing to release the proceeds of the Paris Fund, Weekly Gilhooly Freeman, 29 Aug. 1891

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priesthood and cause men to scoff at a religion that allows its priests to act as maniacs and rob electors of all freedom’. 14 The Sligo Independent and the unionist voters had stood back and declared their independence in the election. However, crucially, they were not the only independents. Bishop Hugh Conway of Killala, unlike the other two bishops in the county, adopted a policy of neutrality, refusing to condemn Parnell, that allowed the staunchly Parnellite priesthood in his diocese to campaign for ‘The Chief’. Rev J Kelly, PP , Rev Peter O’Hara, CC Dromard and Rev M Clarke CC Easkey from the diocese Michael Davitt, Vanity Fair, 13 of Killala in the west of the county all Chaos! Unionist view of Home Aug. 1892 canvassed for Dillon. This gave Dillon Rule Parliament Michael Davitt congratulated Collery a fighting chance in Sligo, and as one on various issues ranging from his on his selection and condemned commentator at the time maintained authoritarian style of leadership to Parnell, writing that ‘the aim and ‘created uniquely favourable Parnell’s lack of concern with land object of Parnellism is therefore circumstances for Parnell in the issues and the plight of the labourers the establishment of a dictatorship western end of the constituency’. 15 It and landless after 1881, and he used under the man whose aim is to rule is also proof contradicting the common the opportunity offered by the North or ruin the national movement’. 13 attitude regarding the time that the Sligo by-election to reiterate all his Valentine B Dillon, a Dublin solicitor Catholic clergy and hierarchy were criticisms of Parnell. Davitt was also and a consistently loyal supporter of all publically, strongly and morally much more in favour of a socialist Parnell, was selected by ‘the Chief’ as opposed to Parnell the Protestant future for Ireland and Parnell had his candidate. following the public announcement of little time for this coming from a more his affair with Katharine O’Shea. conservative landowning background. There was plenty of trouble in The North Sligo constituency relation to campaigning, especially in stretched from Ardnaree in the west the northern part of the constituency of the county to Bunduff on the and in the western part. A hardcore northern side and covered part of and well-feared gang, ‘The Butcher three dioceses. When Parnell came to Boys of Sligo’, supported Collery, the constituency on 23 March 1891, and used their blunt persuasion skills, he based himself in the west around launching the odd raid into Parnellite Ballina and campaigned in stronghold of Tireragh. Maurice where he had a strong following. Healy and David Sheehy, along with When he built up the confidence to assistance from an MP or two and a enter Sligo town on 28 March 1891 visit from Thomas Sexton, who had he was accompanied by his army Val Dillon been MP for South Sligo in 1885, and of supporters from Tireragh while Michael Davitt, did most of the more members of the Gaelic Athletic The Unionist Party stayed out of the refined anti-Parnellite campaigning. Association acted as his praetorian election and the Sligo Independent Parnellites argued that there was guard.16 His caravan of followers editorial on 28 March 1891 declared a great deal of intimidation of their consisted of six brakes and 26 cars that ‘so far as conservatism is canvassers and clerical interference transporting over 100 men, and they concerned, the constitutional party in their campaign, while the anti- were joined along the way by groups will hold aloof from the contest’, Parnellites inflamed feelings by of supporters from all the villages and maintaining that ‘the specimens of focusing on aspects of Parnell’s hamlets. The said priestly intervention at this election personal life. Michael Davitt was that ‘In the annals of electioneering are enough to bring discredit on the a long-time opponent of Parnell warfare, no event that we know of,

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Hotel and stayed there. On 29 March to the better judgement of the people Davitt, Sexton and Collery took their of Sligo to say whether they approve campaign to Parnell’s heartland of of this system of terrorism which has support in Tireragh. They were not been organised in their midst. I take this means of asking you for your vote on Thursday’.22 When the results of the north Sligo election became known Collery had gained 3,261 votes while Dillon got Cartoon critical of Parnell – a very respectable 2,493 votes; he ‘Dignity and Impudence’, Weekly had lost by a majority of only 768. 23 Freeman, 28 March 1891 The Sligo Champion editorial of 11 approaches within a measurable April was delighted with the election distance of the ‘invasion’ of Sligo of Collery. 24 The Sligo Independent by the gallant men of Tireragh, and editorial claimed that about 150 conquered the ‘enemy’ in their own stronghold’. 17 Parnell’s path to the town hall, blocked by some anti- Parnellites, was cleared quickly and he addressed the gathered crowd inside, which included the sisters Constance and Eva Gore-Booth. “Men of Sligo,” he exclaimed, “I am rejoiced in having the opportunity of addressing you in Parnell speaking from a large window given the same courtesy afforded to Parnell making a speech to a Parnell by the people of Sligo Town hostile crowd, Illustrated London and trouble followed them all the way News, 27 December 1890 along the coast road. Davitt reached Conservatives in the county had voted Dromore West but had to turn back to but some voted for Alderman Collery Sligo.19 Parnell campaigned strongly on personal grounds. Both it seemed around Sligo and according to many had received Tory support, although reports gave some of the most fiery, the anti-Parnellites did not want it to most violent and most passionate be known that they received support speeches of his political career. He from the Conservative side. A total of left Sligo on polling day, 2 April, 300 Unionists abstained from voting. for Ballina where he got the train to However the editorial was more North & South Sligo Dublin.20 concerned about the interference Constituencies Bernard Collery played the local of the Catholic Church in politics, your town, which I was defied by your card saying that he not only had the maintaining that ‘the time will come enemies to enter, so representative a backing of the majority within the when Protestants must take a firm meeting of the people of the town and IPP but also that ‘I shall regard it stand against the Roman Catholic of the division of north Sligo. I have as my special duty as a Sligoman to meddling in elections and if need be never yet found any Irish town which watch the interests of our Town and join with the independent Catholic refused me a hearing [cries of ‘You County’.21 Val Dillon, a Dublin man, voter who has the courage to tell the never will’] and when I was told that did not personally canvas in Sligo and priest to mind his own business’.25 the men of Sligo would refuse me a focused on criticising the intimidation In the three by-elections held after hearing, I said it was a weak and lying conducted by the anti-Parnellites. He Parnell’s affair with Katharine O’Shea intervention of the enemy.” .18 argued that ‘I regret that I cannot wait became public, his candidate in the The same night as Parnell addressed upon you to solicit your vote without North Sligo constituency came the the people in the town hall, Michael subjecting you to the annoyance, and closest in securing Parnell the electoral Davitt arrived at the train station, possible risks, which I continually endorsement he needed to reassert his where most of the anti-Parnellites experience from a small body of control over the IPP. Dillon had gained in Sligo were to welcome him. roughs who are determined to prevent 43 percent of the available vote in the Parnell later spoke at the Imperial me from calling upon you. I leave it North Sligo constituency. In the North

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high vote in Tireragh was a result of ‘an enormous amount of personation’. Parnell later died after an illness in October 1891 and the Parnellites elected John Redmond as their leader and continued on until the Party was reunified in 1900. -- Padraig Deignan is a PhD graduate of NUI Maynooth. He also has a BA, MA and a Higher Diploma in Education from NUI Galway and was awarded a fellowship of the National University of Ireland. In 2010 he published The Protestant Community in Sligo, 1914-49. To read more about ‘He Managed to Catch the Train this Time’, Parnell does a runner from issues affecting Sligo in the Pre- the O’Shea divorce case, Weekly National Press, 4 July 1891 Famine years and in the second half of Kilkenny by-election held a few Collery was strong many people did the nineteenth century consult his new months before on 22 December 1890, not turn out to vote. In Sligo town book Land and People in Nineteenth Vincent Scully, a Tipperary landlord, secured 35 percent of the vote running against Sir John Pope Hennessy, the anti-Parnellite. The anti-Parnellite candidate Andrew Kettle from Dublin only secured 29 percent of the vote running against John Hammond, a merchant based in Tullow Street in Carlow, in the Carlow by election held later in the year on 7 July 1891. An analysis of the votes in the North Sligo by-election of 1891 indicates why Val Dillon received such a high vote. In the areas where

Parnell’s funeral out of 2,880 registered electors, 1,800 voted. In Grange, 1,400 people were registered but only 865 voted. The anti-Parnellites maintained that they had lost out on 120 votes in the Grange area due to the incompetence of the presiding officer. However, in areas where Parnell was strong people turned out in large numbers to vote for Dillon. In Tireragh, 2,314 voted out of the 2,800 who were registered. All the farmers in , Easkey, and Dromore West voted for Dillon. Bernard Collery, as mayor, 1884 The anti-Parnellites argued that the John Redmond

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Century Sligo: from Union to Local ford, 1977), p. 529 - Sligo Parliamentary Elections 1700-1918 Government. The book investigates 4. F.S.L. Lyons, The Fall of Parnell 1890-91 (Sligo, 2015), p. 99 (London, 1960), pp 148-50 16. S.C., 28 Mar 1891 the interaction of land, economics and 5. S.C., 13 Dec 1890 17. Western People, 28 Mar. 1891 politics in the county in the period 6. Ibid., 10 Jan 1891 18. S.C., 28 Mar 1891 following the end of the Napoleonic 7. Ibid., 14 Fe. 1891 19. S.C., 4 Apr 1891 8. Alan O’Day, Irish Home Rule 1867-1921, p. 20. Ibid., 11 Apr 1891 Wars to the Local Government Act 143; F.S.L. Lyons, The Fall of Parnell 1890-91, 21. Ibid., 19 Mar 1891 of 1898 and is available in local pp 152-4 22. S.I., 4 Apr 1891 bookshops. 9. Ibid., p. 244. Frank Callanan, The Parnell 23. Ibid., 11 Apr 1891 Split, 1890-91 (Syracuse, 1992), pp 287-90. 24. S.C., 11 Apr 1891 10. S.C., 21 Feb 1891 25. S.I., 11 Apr 1891 References 11. Ibid., 28 Feb 1891 1. S.C., 14 Mar 1891 12. Ibid., 21 Mar 1891 2. F.S.L. Lyons, The Fall of Parnell 1890-91, 13. Ibid., 28 Mar 1891 (London, 1960), pp 93-4, pp 113-17 14. S.I., 28 Mar 1891. 3. F.S.L. Lyons, Charles Stewart Parnell (Ox- 15. John C. McTernan, The Way Things Were Everything ahead of them: Fourth year students of Coláiste Mhuire in 1965

Back Row from left: Thomas Mc Loughlin, Patrick Chambers, Jim Higgins, Geraldine Martin, Maeve Gilmartin, Eileen Scanlon Front row from Left: Patricia Beattie, Una Healy, Maura Cunnane, Kathlee Rafferty, Kathleen McManamy Photograph courtesy of Maura Cunnane 23 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 An Gorta Mόr 1845 –1850: Famine orphan girls from Co Sligo

By Fiona Doherty

The failure of Ireland’s potato crop of Sligo, and Dromore 4,114 Irish girls from Plymouth to due to potato blight in the autumn West and some areas on the county Australia under the direction of Earl of 1845 led to what became known border were served by Ballina, Grey. as the Great Irish Famine or An and Boyle. The Sligo The memo to the workhouses Gorta Mόr. Successive potato crop workhouse had opened in 1842 and requested lists of suitable orphan girls failures between 1845 and 1850 was built to contain 1,200 inmates. It between the ages of 14 and 18 years were exacerbated by political, social was the main workhouse operating in for travel to Australia. The scheme and economic issues such as over Co Sligo during the famine until the had two main aims: to alleviate population, absentee landlords, poor law unions of Dromore West and overcrowding in Irish workhouses, subdivision of land and an over- Tubbercurry were established in 1849 and to meet an Australian demand dependence on the potato as a staple and 1850 to relieve pressure on Sligo for female domestic servants and food. town. marriageable young women. By 1846 the grip of starvation and Famine relief measures implemented To qualify for the scheme, orphans destitution was evident throughout by the government in 1846 included had to have been at the workhouse Ireland, and Connacht was badly public works schemes such as for at least one year, aged between 14 affected. ‘A grievous calamity is at drainage, fencing, road repairs and and 18 as mentioned, industrious, of our doors – a widespread devastating bridge building. A minority of Irish good character and free from disease. famine,’ said the Rev William Stoney landlords distributed money and food The vast majority of eligible girls during a sermon in Castlerea. He to their starving tenants, but many had lost one or both parents and were stated that the demand for food was landlords were indifferent and removed destitute. Their passage was paid for fearful to behold and he exhorted destitute tenants with no concern for by the Australian government who those ‘above want’ to bring aid to the their welfare. In 1847 and 1848, the also supported the girls on arrival until poor families in the area. Sligo workhouse was extended twice they were hired out. The workhouse The catastrophe was particularly to accommodate over 2,000 inmates, contributed £3 - £5 per girl to equip severe in the counties of Sligo and with additional buildings throughout them with a trunk of new clothes Mayo, where up to 90% of the Sligo town converted into temporary and also paid for their transport to population were dependent on the accommodation for another 2,000 Plymouth. In Plymouth, the girls potato. Relief efforts were poorly orphaned and abandoned children. underwent one final inspection to managed and short lived, and there ensure they were fit to travel. Once on was mass starvation and disease. The Earl Grey Orphan Emigration the ship the girls shared bunks in third- Widespread evictions for non- Scheme class quarters and were supervised payment of rent led to a massive By 1848, workhouses across Ireland by a matron. Travel conditions were exodus through the nearby port of were totally overcrowded and a vastly superior to the unregulated Sligo, and between 1847 and 1851 memo was sent to the workhouses in coffin ships travelling to North over 30,000 people from the area left March 1848 advising of an assisted America at that time, with minimal through this port. The census of 1841 emigration scheme to Australia called deaths compared to the high mortality recorded a peak population of 180,886 the Earl Grey Famine Orphan Scheme. rates of the coffin ships. for Co Sligo, while in 1851 the census The scheme was named after Earl recorded 128,769 people living in the Grey, who was Secretary of State for county. As a result of the famine and the colonies and the son of the famous The Sligo Orphan Girls its aftermath, the population for Co tea merchant. The influential English Information from Parliamentary Sligo declined by almost 30 per cent humanitarian, Caroline Chisholm, papers and passenger lists indicate that between 1841 and 1851. expressed her concern for victims a total of 68 girls were chosen from of the Irish famine by appealing to the Sligo workhouse to travel under Workhouses Earl Grey to establish an assisted the scheme. On arrival to Australia, The Poor Law Relief Act of 1838 emigration scheme to Australia. Her the immigration clerks wrote down all divided Ireland into poor law unions, initiative resulted in thousands of Irish their personal details including name, each served by a workhouse and orphan girls from Irish workhouses age, native place, parents’ names, administered by a local board of being able to leave famine-stricken religion, domestic skills, literacy, guardians. Most of Co Sligo was Ireland and between 1848-1850 the and whether they had relatives in served by the three poor law unions orphan emigration scheme shipped the colony. These records also give

24 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 information about their early days in the colony and in some cases, life events including marriage, children and date of death have since been added to the database. Many of their surnames were typical Sligo names including Brennan, Burke, Duffy, Finan, Golden, Kearns, McCarrick and O’Hara, and there were at least five sets of sisters. They were from all areas of Co Sligo and native places recorded included Ballymote, Drumfin, Coolaney, Grange and Easkey. The girls were from different backgrounds and were not exclusively Catholic as 30% of the Sligo girls were recorded as being Church of England. However, evidence of the disadvantaged position of Catholics in Ireland at that time is shown by the lower levels of literacy Orphan girls song Sligo famine memorial of the Catholic orphan girls, who were that ‘Protestant rather than Catholic There is a Famine Family Memorial only about 45% literate compared to girls should be sent because of their that was erected at Sligo Harbour in the 80% literacy rate for the Protestant better ‘moral education’.’ Other 1997 and this sculpture is one of three girls. factors leading to public resentment commissioned by the Sligo Famine The girls were lodged at the against the orphan girls included their Commemoration Committee. immigrant depot, and due to the inexperience in domestic areas, their There is also an Irish Famine shortage of domestic female labour in lowly workhouse origins and the Memorial and Museum in Sydney Australia they were hired out quickly. financial cost to the colony. There was dedicated to the orphan girls and a They were employed as house also a growing distrust of Earl Grey database which includes shipping lists servants, nursemaids, farm servants, as he was considering the resumption for the 20 ships that brought girls to dairy maids and as needlewomen. of convict transports to Australia, Australia in 1848-1850. and this added further objections and The Great Irish Famine was a major Opposition to the Earl Grey Scheme political opposition to his emigrant event in both Irish and global history, The Earl Grey scheme was a well- schemes. with far-reaching economic and managed scheme and was initially Memory and Legacy political consequences. Co Sligo was regarded as successful, but was The majority of the girls kept a low one of the most impoverished areas relatively short-lived and closed down profile and led successful lives in during 1845 -1850 and the Earl Grey in 1850 due to the prevailing anti-Irish, their new country. Most of them went scheme was a lifesaving opportunity anti- Catholic feeling in the colony. on to marry and have large families, for the destitute Sligo orphan girls The prejudicial attitude of Potato, and some of their many descendants whose only choice was emigration or Paddy and Popery was reinforced by have visited Ireland to research family starvation. Charles Trevelyn, who administered trees and to make a pilgrimage to the --- the Famine Relief funds. He advocated workhouses. Bibliography Secondary Sources Co. Sligo Famine Commemoration Committee Co. Sligo Commemoration Of The Great Irish Famine (Sligo,1997). McDonnell-Garvey, Maire, Mid- Connacht: The Ancient Territory of Sliabh Lugha (Manorhamilton,1995), pp193-4 Swords, Liam, In Their Own Words: The Famine in North Connacht 1845-1849 (Dublin,1999), p. 294. Online Sources Irish Famine Memorial Sydney, Famine Orphan Girl Database http://www.irishfaminememorial. org/en/orphans/database/ Irish Famine Memorials, Sligo, Co. Sligo (1997) https://irishfaminememorials.com/2014/01/16/ sligo-co-sligo-1997/ Sligo Workhouse Orphan Girls shipped under the Earl Grey Scheme

25 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Synge at the Opera House: A reminiscence of Belfast

By Michael J Meehan

My first memory of Belfast is a of black we nestled the ‘shebeen’ of childhood treat to the Christmas panto Michal James. at the old Grand Opera House in the That night the huge stage curtains city. One year our family went to opened in darkness to the cry of the Strabane after Christmas to visit the curlew and a plaintive tin whistle; as Donagheys, friends of mother from the scene lit slowly the stage became her working life in that town. Seasonal the barren landscape of West Mayo. gifts were probably exchanged – Before Pegeen spoke the first lines pounds of Free State butter for pounds of the play, applause erupted from all of tea, which was scarce for us. You parts of the packed auditorium, and I might say it was a spot of festive knew we were on our way. Later the The Grand Opera House smuggling on the side. play won first prize at the festival and the weekend, the group discovered Myra Donaghey, always our the ‘shebeen’ the best setting award. that Belfast had gone dry. After some surrogate aunt, brought us on a When Walter collected the cup we persuasion, not a lot, the landlord day trip to Belfast. We travelled by all felt like the heroes of the Western uncorked the champagne and the GNR steam train, saw the City Hall, World. celebration party commenced. The some department stores, self-service The final night festival revelry was drink was flowing, the sing-song restaurants (then a novelty) and lots of held in the new UTV Studios, hosted was high when two passing RUC Union Jacks, plus a ride on a trolley by the Milk Board; constables were attracted to this bus. However, the highlight of the day milk and tea (with milk) were the unaccustomed carousing in the out was the pantomime at the Grand only beverages on offer and not a Sabbatical calm of Belfast. They Opera House, a matinee performance. drop of the customary champagne arrived into the party fully armed, Then in May 1967 I was back at for the cup. Would it go home to as ‘warriors into the breach’. With the Opera House, on stage this time Sligo dry, we wondered! It was a persuasion and the sniff of a drink they in a production of John Synge’s The very friendly, very fashionable and joined the fun, one even performing a Playboy of the Western World, at formal occasion, full of goodwill for party piece. To quote Michael James the Drama Final. The group the night’s winners. The Sligo group from the play, ‘the peelers in this place travelled to Belfast on the Friday joined the smart gathering, somewhat is decent, droughty poor fellows’. afternoon, unloading the stage set that like the stage peasants they had been Some years later the Opera House night, which had been designed by Br performing, and were now out in their became a victim of the Troubles, Columban for the Town Hall stage in Sunday best. Joan Gallagher was the bombed in ’91 and ’93, as well was the Sligo. The plan was an early set-up on exception – she had spent the journey small hotel; and the two constables, Saturday morning, then the bonus of north making a dress for this party. who knows after their night out with the weekend to watch the FA Cup final That night a ‘Twiggy’ like creation the Fenians. Sometime in the late 90s with perfect TV reception. was revealed to give the Westerners a nephew showed me where the hotel But in the morning we had to some Bohemian chic. had once stood; but then, all of that scupper the plan – our prize-winning At the tea dispensing area that night, was in a terrible future. set looked like a doll’s house on the a remark was overheard between two The next day, or the ‘morning after’ expanse of the Opera House stage. ladies on seeing our set designer in his for some, we found the city closed. So much for the best laid plans! We Marist Brs garb: ‘Why do they always No shops or pubs were open, and laboured all day, climbing 14ft ladders have to have one of them along?’ A a few badly needed a ‘cure’ while to hang extra black stage drapes sour note with a lot of history. Looking others searched for the alleged lewd that the obliging Opera House stage back, perhaps the clerical attire was a Sunday papers to take home. All crew dug out of the dusty overhead little too severe, even for that time; morning church and chapel bells rang galleries. It was ‘all hands-on deck’ but maybe Columban wanted to fly out over the city in competitive calls to brush clean the little used drapes. another flag. to worship. Doomsday threatened Into what seemed a boundless stage Later at the small hotel, booked for from street hoardings and lampposts;

26 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 one could almost hear the thumping stores. But on the Saturday morning Author’s note: After major reconstruction cant of the city. Belfast had put on going to the Opera House I nipped into and renovation, a new Grand Opera its black dour look. By afternoon a small newsagent and found a copy House opened on 21 October 2006. The everyone was glad to pile into Joe of Edna O’Brien’s The Country Girls, 1967 Sligo Drama circle production of O’Brien’s homeward-bound bus, but then banned and dammed everywhere Synge’s Playboy was directed by Walter for all it was a weekend to cherish and south of Belfast, and I still have that McDonagh, who, at short notice that remember. memento of the time. night, brilliantly performed the role of Of course, we never did get to see -- Michael James Flaherty. This article is in that FA cup final or get to the book memory of Walter, one of our heroes.

A meeting of Minds: Pupils from Ballymote visiting friends at St Nathy’s, 1955

Pupils of St Mary’s Secondary School, Ballymote, May 1955 and visiting relatives and friends at St Nathy’s College, Ballaghaderreen, after the Liturgical Festival.

Back row, left to right: Sheila Gilligan, ?, Kathleen Taheny, ?, Breege Quigley, Ethna McManamy, John Higgins, Eva Devine Front row, left to right: Gerry McManus, Joan Gardener, Pauline McDonagh, Matt J McManus, Annie Higgins, TJ McDonagh Photo courtesy of Pauline McDonagh

27 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 South Sligo Election 1918 By Michael Farry

The post-war general election of Sligomen J J Clancy, soon to be MP/ 1918 was a watershed in Irish history, TD for North Sligo, and J J (Ginger) seeing the replacement of the old Irish O’Connell. Parliamentary Party by Sinn Féin. The During the summer Sinn Féin was Sinn Féin policy of abstention from aware that the ending of the war Westminster and the setting up of a would see a general election and the rival state apparatus led to the War clubs were determined to be ready. of Independence and the Treaty. The In February the Representation of parliamentary constituency of South the People Act had given the vote Sligo reflected the general national to all males over 21 years and most pattern. women over 30. This increased the The Irish Party MP for South Sligo South Sligo electorate from 6,929 was John O’Dowd, aged 62 in 1918. to 18,003. As elsewhere, Sligo Sinn He was born in Tubbercurry, but Féin members worked to ensure that emigrated to the USA at an early all their supporters were registered. age, returning in 1876 to live in Photograph of John O’Dowd The RIC County Inspector in his June Bunninadden, Sligo, where he was from Sligo and its Surroundings, 1918 report said that the Sinn Féiners a shopkeeper and farmer. He took Kilgannon, 1926. were in the process of ‘perfecting an active part in politics, joined the reconstituted as a comhairle ceantair their organisation and ensuring their IRB and the Land League, and was for the constituency, with 24 clubs supporters were on the electoral imprisoned in 1881-82. He was active represented. register . . . The new franchise act in the early development of the United County Sligo became one of the which gives practically manhood Irish League, which helped reunite the best politically organised counties suffrage will enable the Sinn Fein Irish Party, which had been split since in Ireland ranking sixth in Ireland party to sweep Ireland at the next the Parnell controversy. as regards Sinn Féin membership General Election.’ He was elected unopposed as MP in December 1917. RIC County The selection of candidates for the for the North Sligo constituency in Inspector Sullivan reported 43 Sligo expected election started in September. March 1900. He transferred to his Sinn Féin clubs with a membership The South Sligo comhairle ceantair native South Sligo constituency at of 2,762 at that time and recognised was told by Sinn Féin headquarters the general election later that year that ‘Sinn Fein is the only live that their candidate should be and continued to hold that seat until political organisation in this county’. selected locally, and four candidates 1918. No parliamentary election was The United Irish League had almost went forward to a convention on 15 contested in either Sligo constituency completely collapsed. September: Alex McCabe, Pádhraic from 1895, and neither of the two During early 1918 Sinn Féin support Ó Domhnalláin, Owen Tansey and Sligo MPs had ever faced a contested was consolidated by its leadership in Séamus Marren. Tansey and Marren parliamentary election. This was not the February conacre campaign. The had been secretaries of South Sligo unusual at the time. Gill published organisers set the price for conacre Sinn Féin. Pádhraic Ó Domhnalláin a volume of John O’Dowd’s poetry, at no more than £4 per acre. Large was president of South Sligo Sinn Féin. Lays of South Sligo, in 1888. crowds, with bands with republican Aged 34 in 1918, Ó Domhnalláin, The events of 1914-16, the outbreak flags and banners, entered properties a native of , was and the prolonging of the Great War and divided them for conacre among an Irish teacher in Summerhill and the 1916 rising changed the Irish small farmers at the set price. Most College, Ursuline Convent, and the political scene. During 1917 a new seizures took place in south Sligo. Technical School in Sligo. He lived party with an old name, Sinn Féin, came Prosecutions followed and many in Tubbercurry and had been very into being, and its cumainn organised activists were imprisoned. This was active in the Gaelic League and the locally. South Sligo was more followed by the successful anti- Volunteers. He left Sligo in 1920 for advanced than the rest of the county conscription campaign in which Sinn Dublin where he became editor of the and on 29 April delegates from eight Féin played a prominent part. periodical Misneach. parishes met in Tubbercurry to form In May the so-called ‘German Plot’ Tansey and Marren withdrew and the South Sligo Sinn Féin Alliance. At saw 73 national Sinn Féin leaders McCabe was selected on a vote of 21 the beginning of December this was arrested and deported, including to 19. Ó Domhnalláin’s supporters, 28 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

O’Dowd supporter that he finally decided to stand only on the eve of nomination day. It speculated that John Dillon, leader of the Irish Party, opposed in his East Mayo constituency by De Valera, was afraid of a ‘Sligo Expeditionary Force’ in the event of no contest in South Sligo and had insisted that O’Dowd go forward for re-election. Bishop Morrisroe of Achonry, who was prone to offer guarded comments on political and current affairs, refused to takes sides when preaching in Gurteen in mid-November 1918. ‘It was not for him to say what would satisfy the people, but he believed that there were still troubled times ahead . . . Only when the people were united would the priests give a lead, and A cartoon reading ‘Flop goes Mr John Oh! Dowd’, published in the not when the people were wrangling Roscommon Herald, 14 Dec 1918 and rending one another in the most abominable way.’ mostly from Tubbercurry it was said, Whether the South Sligo Many priests did take sides, appealed, and McCabe’s selection constituency would be contested or however. In South Sligo, Canon was declared irregular by a South not was in doubt until nomination day. James Daly, PP Mullinabreena, and Fr Sligo Comhairle Cheantair meeting. The Roscommon Herald newspaper, Thomas Quinn, PP Toulestrane, were At a reconvened convention at the virulently anti-Irish Party, reported among John O’Dowd’s proposers. end of October Ó Domhnalláin in early November a rumour that One of Alex McCabe’s proposers was refused to go forward and proposed O’Dowd would not contest the seat Fr P J O’Grady, PP Keash, who had that McCabe also withdraw and because of the lack of sufficient once dismissed him from his teaching Countess Markievicz be nominated as support, financial and otherwise. It post. the candidate. McCabe’s supporters said that it had been informed by an The Great War ended on 11 refused to agree and the meeting was November and on 14 November the adjourned to the following Sunday, election was called, to be held on 14 when McCabe was selected. December. The month-long campaign Alexander McCabe, 32 in 1918, was started almost immediately. born in Keash, where his mother was ‘Never was an election fought with a primary teacher; his father was a such determination,’ said the Sligo Longford-born RIC man. Educated at Champion at the end of November, , Sligo, McCabe but this referred chiefly to the North became a primary teacher and was Sligo constituency where the Irish appointed principal of Drumnagranchy Party had hopes of holding on to the National School, Keash, in 1910. He seat of Thomas Scanlan MP against was a member of the IRB and an early the Sinn Féin candidate J J Clancy. supporter of Arthur Griffith’s Sinn That constituency saw an intensive Féin and a member of the Volunteers campaign by both sides with some from their founding. In 1915 he was bitter personal attacks but no serious dismissed from his teaching post. He disturbances. The RIC County was a prime mover in the growth of Inspector in his November report Sinn Féin in south Sligo in 1917 and said that the county was ‘in a very was a leader of the conacre campaign unsettled state owing to the impending in early 1918. He was imprisoned election’, adding that the Sinn Féiners a number of times in 1918. At this A cartoon of Alex McCabe published were much better prepared and time Alex McCabe was interned in in the Roscommon Herald, 18 July organised than the Nationalists. ‘Their England. 1914 canvassers are more active and their

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Sinn Fein circles and the elaborate arrangements which are being made for the election, will sound the death- knell of the constitutional movement in this and other constituencies.’ On 8 December a series of Sinn Féin meetings were held throughout the constituency, at Achonry, Bunninadden, Tourlestrane, Ballinacarrow, Mulinabreena, Gleann, Sooey, , Highwood, , Killaville and Riverstown. Speakers included Padhraig Ó Domhnalláin, John Gilligan, Tom O’Donnell, Seamus Marren, Harold McBrien and Frank O’Beirne. The last two became prominent in the IRA during the war of independence. Gilligan became Sinn Féin chairman of in 1921 and O’Donnell was elected unopposed as a Sinn Féin TD at the 1921 elections for the Sligo–Mayo East constituency, and held the seat until defeated at the 1923 general election. O’Beirne and McBrien became IRA O/Cs in their areas and were prominent during the War of Independence. There is no mention of any involvement of Frank Carty in this election campaign and he seems not to have mentioned it in any of his statements of activities during the period. Carty was the most prominent IRA leader from the area, was O/C South Sligo battalion 3rd Western Division from 1921 and TD from 1921 to his death in 1942. Harold McBrien, in his witness statement says: ‘In the latter part of 1918 the General Election took place and an amount of work in connection with this was performed by the Volunteers, such as canvassing, arranging transport, protecting speakers, guarding ballot boxes and polling booths, etc.’ An O’Dowd election advertisement, published in Sligo local newspapers, The Roscommon Herald reported December 1918 that at a Sinn Féin meeting at flags and election addresses appear Sligo-town-based papers concentrated Monastereden there were some everywhere.’ on the more exciting North Sligo interruptions from Mr Terry Kelly In South Sligo, where the result was campaign and the Roscommon DC, ‘but the well-known Sinn Feiner, regarded as a foregone conclusion, Herald, widely read in the area, was Mr Hunt of Moygara, at once took there seems to have been little rabidly anti-Irish Party and reported effective steps to prevent any further excitement at meetings. Newspaper no O’Dowd meetings. It said: ‘Even a interruptions.’ This was Jim Hunt, coverage of the South Sligo campaign casual observer could not but see that later O/C of Gurteen IRA. was sporadic and generally slight. The the enthusiasm which is displayed in In early December, meetings

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Tansey of Gurteen, who was the Sinn one month imprisonment, the other Féin Director of Elections for the three to two months each. At a meeting constituency as well as being O/C of of Tubbercurry Guardians, one Sinn the Gurteen Volunteers. His funeral Féin supporter tried to claim that the on 10 December, four days before wounds were received when O’Dowd the election, was a great show of Sinn stumbled when getting out of his car. Féin strength. By coincidence on the day of the The John O’Dowd campaign had a election the Roscommon Herald large advertisement placed in the local published a cartoon entitled ‘Flop newspapers, ‘To the Electors of South goes Mr John Oh! Dowd’ showing the Sligo’, which stressed O’Dowd’s long candidate receiving a knock-out blow service: ‘a Nationalist of forty years’ from the electors of South Sligo. standing’. ‘I have been imprisoned and exiled, persecuted and prosecuted by successive British governments, Tory and Liberal,’ it claimed, and The gravestone of John O’Dowd it highlighted his part in ‘banishing in Cloonameehan cemetery, landlordism from the country’ and Bunninadden obtaining ‘comfortable homes . . . were held at Collooney and Gurteen for the labouring poor.’ He claimed in support of McCabe. Six bands to stand ‘for the fullest measure paraded through the streets before of Self-Government for a United the Collooney meeting. The famous Ireland’ and warned that abstention Fr Michael O’Flanagan was the main would result in having no-one at speaker at both meetings and his theme Westminster to fight the government. was that the Sinn Féin movement was He warned of the danger of increases a young movement which was going in taxation if this were to happen to finish what the Irish Party had and also highlighted the ‘Imminent started. “All the sap and juice had danger of the withdrawal of Old Age gone out of the Irish Party,” he said. Pensions.’ The appeal ended with A Ballymote Sinn Féin cumann report ‘God Save Ireland’, a reference to said: ‘The electors of South Sligo will the Manchester Martyrs and the song which had been an unofficial anthem return Mr Alex McCabe, the Sinn Owen Tansey Fein candidate, who stands for free of Irish Nationalists. Ireland, and thus prove that Ireland is The RIC County Inspector Sullivan The election was held on a Saturday a nation as much entitled to freedom reported that there had been ‘no and voting was steady all day from as Belgium, Esthonia, (sic) Poland, disturbances during the election’ and 8am to 8pm. The weather was fine Alsace-Lorraine, or any of the other while there were some accounts of and there were no reported incidents. small nations of Europe who are to be impersonation, these had no effect on The local papers heaped lavish praise given the right to self-determination.’ the outcome. The Sligo Champion on the Sinn Féin election machinery. At this time the second, more deadly, agreed: ‘With comparatively few Volunteers stood guard on each wave of the great ’flu epidemic was exceptions, the campaign has been polling station and escorted the sealed taking effect. ‘Ballymote Notes’ conducted, in this part of the country, ballot boxes to Ballymote Courthouse in the 16 November issue of the in an honourable spirit.’ where all the South Sligo boxes were Roscommon Herald reported: ‘Since On the eve of polling day, however, collected. Around 4am all these boxes Monday last the ’Flu has spread with John O’Dowd was assaulted while were taken by a convoy of cars to alarming rapidity in Ballymote and canvassing in Ballinacarrow. His car Sligo Courthouse where they were district, so much so that the number of was pelted with stones and when he stored securely until counting began persons suffering from the disease has got out and reminded his attackers on 28 December. Relays of Volunteers increased from three or four cases to that he had given the best years of his stood guard outside the Courthouse over forty . . . The spread of disease in life fighting for his country, he was until the count was completed. The the town has created a great scare, and knocked to the ground and kicked. Sligo Champion said ‘A feature of very few people attended the market Four young men from the area were the ‘system’ which marked the day’s here on Thursday.” A few weeks later later charged as a result, and all were work was the service of the ladies of the epidemic claimed the life of Owen found guilty. One was sentenced to Cumann na mBan. Their duty was to 31 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 provide, at fixed intervals, food and The 1918 election was a triumph in 1924 because of dissatisfaction refreshments for the men at work in for Sinn Féin nationally and saw the with government attitude to certain the various booths.’ end of the Irish Party. Though it is army officers, and joined the National Although the count and declarations true that if proportional representation Group led by Joseph McGrath. He did not take place until 28 December, had been used the Irish Party would resigned his Dáil seat in March 1925. the outcome was never in doubt. have gained some seats and probably He went on to be one of the founders The Sligo Nationalist said: ‘In South survived, the result still represented of the Educational Building Society. Sligo Mr O’Dowd is in all probability one of the largest election reversals As a postscript there is a sad defeated and in North Sligo, Mr ever in Western Europe. headstone in Cloonameehan Scanlan although confident himself, is Sinn Féin now found itself in the cemetery, Bunninadden. It’s where scarcely likely to be elected.’ same position as the Irish Party had John O’Dowd was buried in 1937, In South Sligo McCabe secured previously, having no significant forgotten, overtaken by history. If the 9,103 votes to just 1,988 for O’Dowd political opposition and very little war hadn’t broken out in 1914, if it while in North Sligo Clancy got 9,030 purpose. The focus shifted to the hadn’t lasted four years, if the Easter votes to 4,241 for Scanlan. McCabe’s establishment of Dáil Éireann, the Rising hadn’t happened, would his share of the valid poll was 82%, reactions of the British government, end have been different? Would Home Clancy’s 68%. The turnout in South and the activities of the Volunteers. Rule have been put into effect? John Sligo was just under 62% while that This was the end of Sinn Féin as a O’Dowd might indeed be remembered in North Sligo was 72%. The lower nationwide network of local active as the first South Sligo representative turnout in the south was apparently branches. to sit in a modern Irish Parliament in because the result there was regarded Alex McCabe took little part in the Dublin. as not in doubt. “The young people War of Independence. He took the -- have triumphed over their elders”, pro-Treaty side in the Civil War and Michael Farry is the author of Sligo:The County Inspector Sullivan observed. served in the for a Irish Revolution, 1912–23 published by “Moderate politicians and those with while. At the 1923 general election, Four Courts Press in 2012 any stake in the country await with he was elected as a Cumann na anxiety the future action of the Sinn nGaedheal TD for Leitrim–Sligo. He Fein party.” resigned from Cumann na nGaedheal

Potato Picking By Joan Gleeson

Crisp October weather wheeling and cawing overhead. mound, perfect for digging potatoes. Rookery alert: thatching with straw before the brown In the forties and fifties ‘Free lunch’ for all! soil sealed. horse and plough did the job. Job for the children All gathering in the long field supple limbs, near to the ground. Dimming light at kitchen window of endless rows of drills. evening’s drawn in Awaiting pit, filled with brimming tripod loaded with cast iron oven Father guided the horse and plough buckets red coals surround every step, up hill and down. of every hand-picked potato, Aunt Mary’s simmering, bubbling The plough sock sliced through the unceremoniously dumped and off apple cake drills again joyful feast at end of day. like a knife through butter up one drill, down another at break- scattering and polka-dotting the neck speed While cutting the cake brown earth moving quickly to keep warm mother recites, in its wake. soil cold for small hands. “With the potatoes picked and pitted From the big ones to the small Time to pick before the hungry crows Mother kept the pit in shape There’s peace around the farm swoop as the last potatoes make a long When the leaves begin to fall.”

32 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Agreement between Ó Domhnaill and Tadhg Ó Conchobhair concerning Sligo Castle, 23 June 1593

By Neal Farry and Donal Gallagher

cousin, i.e. Tadhg, son of Cathal Óg Ó Conchobhair. Maghnus immediately proceeded to Moylurg in North Roscommon and pillaged the territory of the McDermotts. While returning to Sligo the Donegal chief besieged and captured Moygara castle near Gurteen, the stronghold of the O’Garas. During the siege Maghnus’ son Niall Garbh was killed by a cannon ball discharged from the wall of the fortress. Ó Domhnaill’s primary interest in controlling Sligo was to protect his southern borders while the Ulster confederacy would attack the Pale through . This agreement is found in Royal Moygara castle Gurteen, that was captured by Maghnus O’Donnell Irish Academy MS 998, p17. The in 1538, soon after he had taken control of Sligo castle from Tadhg Og scribe of the document is unidentified. O’Connor The English translation, written in The following contract and covenant was the half-brother of the tenth Earl a modern hand, was made by Sir (cor agus cundradh) consists of an of Kildare, Silken Thomas, who had William Betham during the early agreement between Maghnus Ó unsuccessfully rebelled against King 19th century. Owen Connellan, of Domhnaill of Tír Chonaill and Tadhg Henry VIII in 1534, an impetuous Enniscrone, the celebrated Sligo Ó Conchobhair Shligigh that sets out act that led to his execution. Lady Gaelic scholar, also translated the the terms by which Tadhg was to hold Eleanor Fitzgerald, a sister of Silken Sligo Contract & Covenant during the Sligo as a vassal of Ó Domhnaill, Thomas, agreed to marry Maghnus mid 1600s. Connellan’s translation and is dated 23 June 1539. The Ó Dohmnaill in order to secure his may be found in The History of Sligo, document was signed and witnessed firm support for the restoration of Woodmartin, Vol. 1, Ps 279 to 281. in the monastery of Donegal. The her nephew Gerald to the Kildare Mrs Carney tells us that the Irish provenance of the manuscript, the earldom. Immediately Ó Domhnaill text is printed as it stands in the contract document and its historical invaded O’Connor Sligo’s territory, MS, except that words have been background were presented by Mrs burning and ravaging the lands of divided, contractions expanded (the Maura Carney BA in Irish Historical O’Connor’s sept in Carbury and the expansions being indicated by italics), Studies, No 11 (March 1943). lands of O’Connor’s vassals, the capital letters supplied in proper In 1537 Maghnus Ó Domhnaill O’Haras of Leyney, the O’Dowds names, and hyphens and apostrophes made peace with Conn Ó Néill of Tír of Tireragh and the of inserted where necessary for clarity. Eoghain and joined him to form the Corran and Tirerrril, thus establishing I have presented the agreement in Ulster confederacy that had the support his hegemony over most of Lower brief groups of sentences followed of most of the Connacht Chiefs, James Connacht. immediately by the relevant and exact Earl of Desmond and King James V In early December 1538 Maghnus group of sentences translated into of Scotland. This confederacy aimed captured the castle of Sligo from English. at restoring twelve-year-old Gerald, Tadhg Óg Ó Conchobhair (The first The standard abbreviation for ‘and’ the son of the ninth Earl of Kildare, to O’Connor Sligo). In the assault on in Middle Irish is ‘7’ and in modern his father’s possessions in defiance of Sligo castle Ó Domhnaill probably English is ‘&’. I have used the ’7’ the wishes of King Henry VIII. Gerald had the support of Tadhg Óg’s to establish authenticity in the first

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Irish paragraph, but thereafter the ‘&’ abbreviation is used for the sake of clarity. The Irish scribe employed the ‘7’ abbreviation at all times. In the document the geographic term Íchtar Connacht or Lower Connacht denotes the territory controlled by O’Connor Sligo and his vassals i.e. Counties Sligo, Leitrim and North Roscommon. The Contract & Covenant in Irish and English are as follows: Ass e so cor 7 cundradh ar a tuc O Domnaill Bardacht tSligigh do Thadhg mac Cathail Óig I Conchubuir 7 ar ar gabh se hi .i. Tadhg do beith na oglach dileas tairise ag O nDomnaill 7 arís a n-aghaidh Gall agus Gaoidheal thire agus coiccríche 7 a beith ar a comhairle anois 7 arís in gach uile cás beag 7 mor a tir agus a coiccrích a cill agus a tuaith. This is the contract and covenant by which O Domhnaill gave the custody of Sligo to Tadhg, son of Cathal Og O Map illustrating the various medieval castles of Sligo town. This map is Conchobhair, and by which he (Tadhg) shown here with the kind permission of John C McTernan, and it was received it, i.e. that Tadhg should be a published in his book Olde Sligoe – Aspects of Town and County over 750 faithful and loyal man to O Domhnaill, Years. Maghnus O’Donnell captured Tadhg Og O’Connor’s castle on the now and at all times, against Gaill and Sligo quays in December 1538. Gaoidhil of the territory and without town itself to transact his affairs every & gac uile uair cuirfeas O Domnaill it; and that he (Tadhg) should act on time he shall demand it, buannaighe a nIchtar Connacht a his counsel, now and at all times, in & da mbeith a n-aigneadh comadh beith d’fhiachaib ar Tadhg a beith every matter, small and great, in the eagail leis O nDomhnaill Goill no umhal doibh & ní he sin amain territory and without it, in matters of Saxanaigh do tSligeach a fhagail acht a mbuandacht do thabhach church and state; rena brisseadh o mac Cathail Oig do na buannaighibh in gac inadh & co hairithe gach uile uair d’eagla a beith ag Gallaibh no ag oile a nIchtar Connacht & gan iarfuss O Domnaill Sligeach arm duine oile a n-aghaidh I Domhnaill buannaigh eli do beth ag Tadhg acht ac Cathail Óig a beith d’fhiachaib agus meic Cathail Oig & a beith na buannighe cuirfeass O Domnaill air a thabhairt dó. & gach uile d’fhiachaib ar Tadhg imtheacht le cuige no thoileochus se dho uair rachus O Domhnaill a nÍchtar maoraibh agus le maruscalaibh I and whenever Ó Domhnaill shall Connacht a beith d’fiachaib ar mac Dhomhnaill in gac uile ait a nIchtar send buannaighe (mercenary soldiers) Cathail Óig eochracha Sligigh do Condacht do thabach tigearnaiss I into Lower Connacht Tadhg shall be tabairt d’O Domhaill & an baile Domnaill obliged to be submissive to them, and fein do tabairt do re hadhaigh a and if it should happen that Ó not merely that, but he shall be obliged gnothaigheadh do denam a nÍchtar Domhnaill feared for Sligo on account to levy their buannacht (billeting and Connacht gach uile uair iarfus se hé of the Gaill or the English he should maintenance) for the buannaighe in and especially every time Ó get it from the son of Cathal Óg to every other place in Lower Connacht, Domhnaill shall demand Sligo of the demolish it, lest the Gaill or any and Tadhg shall have no buannaighe son of Cathal Óg he shall be obliged one else should possess it against Ó other than those which Ó Dohmnaill to give it to him; and every time Domhnaill and the son of Cathal Óg, shall send to him, or allow him to Ó Domhnaill will go into Lower and Tadhg shall be obliged to go with have, Connacht the son of Cathal Óg shall stewards and marshals of Ó Domhnaill & a beith d’fhiachaib ar Thadhg be obliged to give to Ó Domhnaill into every place in Lower Connacht to gac uile coicéd righ da tiocfaid co the keys of Sligo, and to give him the impose the lordship of Ó Domhnaill, Sligeach do cur docum I Domnaill

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& a beith d’fhiachaib air fos gac uile Ó Domhnaill and his heirs after him. teasbag O Gallcobhair & ab Doire cin bailed a mbia ar tShligeach do Is siad slána an cuirsí do taobh & deaganach Doire chur docum I Domnaill acht an raod na hEagluise .i. airdeaspag Tuama These are the witnesses of this thoileachus O Domnaill fein do gan aifrinn gan cumaineacha gan contract: i.e. the guardian of Donegal, and Tadhg shall be obliged to send faiside gan baisdeagh gan adhlacad i.e. Ruaidhrí Mac Carmaic, and to Ó Domhnaill every king’s cocket a roilig coisreactha gan comairce his entire community, as follows, (a custom-house seal) that shall come mainistreach no teampaill do beith Toirrdealbhach Ó Conchobhair and to Sligo, and moreover, he shall be ag Tadhg no ag duine da ngeba Seaan Ó Domhnaill and Brian Mág obliged to send to Ó Domhnaill every leis da mbrise se aonní da bfhuil Grath and Uilliam Ó Duibhir ; and the cin baile (a tax issuing out of land), ann so & a beith d’fhiachaib ar an archbishop of ; and the bishop but that which Ó Domhnaill allows airdeasbag & ar gac eacclais da Ó Gallchobhair and the abbot of Derry him, bfhuil faei coindealbathad croisi do and the dean of Derry. & gan tadhg do denamh tshithe no denamh ar Tadhg & ar gac duine da Et dob i aois an Tigearna an tan cogaidh re duine a tír no a coiccrich ngeba leis gaca minca uair iarrfus O do scribad an deinntiubharsa a a cill no a tuaith acht do chead I Domnaill orra a denamh. mainistir Duin na nGall .i. bliadhain Dhomnaill & a beth ag cogadh These are the pledges of this teasda do da fhicheat agus cuig ced re gach uile duine re n-aibeora O agreement on the part of the church: & mile bliadhan agus an treass la Domnaill ris a beith ag cocadh i.e. the archbishop of Tuam; that .xx. do mí Iuin a uighil Eoin Baisde. and Tadhg shall not make peace or Tadhg, or any person who shall side And the year of the Lord when this war on any person within the territory with him, shall not have masses, indenture was written in the monastery or without, ecclesiastic or lay, but by communions, confession, baptism, of Donegal was fifteen hundred and O Domhnaill’s permission, and he burial in a consecrated burial-ground, thirty nine and twenty third day of shall be at war with every person with sanctuary of monastery or church, if June on the vigil of John the Baptist. whom Ó Domhnaill shall tell him to he violate anything that is contained Nos Edmundus Episcopus Rapotensis be at war, herein, and the archbishop and every interfui tempore premissorum & Tor beag Sligidh do beith ag O church that is under his jurisdiction Ego Abbas Derennsis testis sum nDomnaill rena tabairt don duine shall be obliged to carry out (a omnium premissorum da toigeora se fen da muindtir fen sentence of) excommunication of the Ego frater Rogerus Macarmaic re hadhaig gac uile discreide da cross against Tadhg and every person guardianus de Dun-na-gall cum meo mbia aige a nÍchtar Condacht do who shall side with him, as often as conventu sumus testes premissorum choimhed and. Ó Domhnaill shall demand it of them. omnium And Ó Domhnaill shall have the Is iad slana na gcorsa do taobh aosa Ego frater ( ) sum testium small Tower of Sligo (in order) to give healadna Eireann .i. Concubhar premissorum unus it whatever person of his own people ruadh mac an Baird & O Cleirigh & Ego frater Terentius o Concubair upon whom he shall decide, in order to Fearghal mac Domnaill ruaidh mic testis interfui premissorum preserve therein (affairs of) discretion an Baird & a beith d’fhiachaib orra Ego decanus Derensis interfui he may have in Lower Connacht. Tadhg d’aoradh leo fein & le haos tempore premissorum Et tug Tadhg Dia na n-uile ealadhna Eireann fá mur iarrfus O Misi Concubar rúadh atam isna cumthacht ina diadhacht & ina Domhnaill orra he. slanuibsi dhaondacht mar miondaibh & mar These are the pledges of these Meise O Cleirig & atam isna shlanaibh fa gac enní da bfhuil and contracts on the part of the poets slanuibhsi. so do comall & tug se slan Dia fa of Ireland: i.e. Conchobhar Ruadh Mise Fearghal mac an Baird & indeachad do denam ar a corp andsa Mac an Bhaird and Ó Cléirigh and ataim annsa slanaibse. saoghal & fa gan trocire do denam Fearghal son of Domhnall Ruadh an I, Edmond, bishop of Raphoe, was ar a ananam a bpongc a bháis muna Bhaird. And they shall be obliged to present at the time of the premises. coimhle sé so d’O Domhnaill agus satirize Tadhg, they themselves and I, the Abbot of Derry, am a witness of da oighribh ‘na dhiaigh. the poets of Ireland, as Ó Domhnaill all the premises. And Tadhg invoked Almighty God shall demand it of them. I, Brother Ruaidhrí Macarmaic, in His divinity and in His humanity Is siad fiadhnadha na cuirsi .i. guardian of Donegal, and my convent, as oath and security that everything Gairdian Duin na nGall .i. Ruaidhri are witnesses of all the premises. contained herein should be fulfilled: mac Carmaic & a coimthinol I Brother ( ), am one of the witnesses and he challenged God to inflict uile mur ata Toirrdealbac O of the premises. vengeance on his body in life, and not Concobhair & Seaan O Domnaill I, Brother Toirrdhealbhach Ó to have mercy on his soul at the point & Brian Mag Grath & Uilliam O Conchubhair, was present, a witness of death, if he should not fulfil this for Duibhir & airdeassbag Tuama & an of the premises.

35 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

I am Conchobhair Ruadh. I am in valuable booty they had taken when O’Donnell of Tír Chonaill, in a report these sureties. they plundered Ardee and Navan a to King Henry VIII, as follows: ‘He I am Ó Cléirigh and I am in these short time before Bellahoe. was in a cote of crymoisin velvet, sureties. In spite of this setback Manus with agglettes of gold, twenty or thirty I am Fearghal Mac an Bhaird and I am O’Donnell continued to act as Lord payer, over that a greate doble cloke in these sureties. Paramount of North Connacht. of right crymoisin saten, garded with In 1540 O’Donnell devastated blacke velvet, a bonette, with a fether, The Ulster confederacy was short- and despoiled the districts of Mac sette full of agglettes of gold.’ lived, however, with the defeat of its Dermot in Roscommon. In 1542 he army at Bellahoe in Co. Monaghan sent a scouting party to Ballymote Sources in September 1539 by the army of and drove off the flocks and herds ‘Agreement between Ó Domhnaill and Tadhg Ó Conchobhair concerning Sligo Castle (23 June the pale under the Lord Lieutenant, of MacDonagh. Immediately the 1539)’ by Mrs Maura Carney B.A. Reprinted from Leonard Grey. In the Annals of the chiefs of Sligo delivered tribute to ‘Irish Historical Studies, vol. iii, no. 11 (March Four Masters the writer attributes O’Donnell. MacDonagh, who hoped 1943); this defeat to indiscipline among to recover his stock, was one of the The History of Sligo, Town & County, Archdeacon the UlsterHey confederates Niamh, note who the tablewere offirst kids to in pay.this layout. No other image toO’Rorke go with D.D.M.I.R.A. it. Vol. 1; History of Sligo, Woodmartin, Vol. 1. arranged in battle order in a scattered Anthony St. Leger, another Lord and disorderlyStephen manner, carrying the Deputy in Dublin, described Manus

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TheThe Brett family of Sligofamily and Canada of Sligo and Canada By Padraig Doddy By Padraig Doddy First generationFirst generation Sligo, Ireland on 17 February 1802 Third Generation Henry AHenry or G ABrett or G wasBret tborn was inborn or in 7Sligo, February Ireland 1805, about and 1756 died. He 22 had Henry the following Brett was children: born in Sligo, Sligo, IrelandGeorge about M 1756.Brett Hewas had born the in JuneSligo, 1882 Ireland, in Tosorontioabout 1790 township, Ireland, in 1831, and died March 9, followingHenry children: Brett was born 1792 Ontario, aged 80 years old. Catherine 1901 in Ontario aged 70. His body George MSecond Brett wasGeneration born in Sligo, was the daughter of Richard Cuff (or was interred in Thompson Methodist Ireland, aboutHenr 1790y Brett was born in IrelandCuffe) in 1792, and and Jane died Morrison. 8 April 1877 Her body inCemetery, Rosemont, Adjala Ontario ,township aged near Henry Brett85. was His born body 1792 was interred at wasThompso interredn Methodist at Thompson Cemetery, Methodist Adjala Rosemont, township Ontario, Simcoe Second GenerationCounty, near Rosemont. He marriedCemetery Catherine near Rosemont, Cuff, Ontario.Lissaneagh, Achonry,Henry married Co Sligo, twice. Ireland, He married Henry Brettin 1828 was.Catherine born in wasIreland born in WeLissaneagh, understand Achonry, that Henry Sligo, Brett Ireland Margaret on 17 February Jenkins, 1802Simcoe or 7 County, in 1792, February1805and died 8 April, and 1877 died in22 Juneand 1882his family in Tosorontio emigrated township to Canada, Ontario Norfold,, aged Ontario 80 years on March 22, 1855. Rosemont,old.Catherine Ontario, aged was 85. Histhe body daughter in 1848of Richard from North Cuff Sligo(or Cuffe) at Glencar, and Jane Margaret Morrison.Her was born body in Ireland was in 1840 was interredinterred at Thompson at Thompson Methodist Methodist Ireland, Cemetery when neartheir Rosemont, eldest child Ontario. and died on December 28, 1872 in Cemetery, Adjala township, Simcoe Amelia was 18 years old. Glencar was Ontario, aged 34. We understand that Henry Brett and his family emigrated to Canada in 1848 from North County, near Rosemont. He married a crossroads or a very small village. CatherineSligo Cuff, at Lissaneagh,Glencar, Ireland Achonry,, when Henry their and eldest Catherine child Amelialeft Sligo was with 18 years old.Glencar was a Co Sligo,crossroads Ireland, in or1828. a very Catherine small village.Henrytheir 10 children, and Catherine from Amelia left toSligo a with their 10 children, from was bornAmelia in Lissaneagh, to a baby AllenAchonry, born babyin 1848. Allen born in 1848.

First Name DOB Died Place 1 Amelia 1829 January 11, 1909 Lavender, Ontario 2 Henry 1831 March 9, 1901 Rosemont, Ontario 3 Richard 1832 July 14, 1894 Alliston, Ontario 4 George 1834 December 4, 1905 Alliston, Ontario 5 Margaret ABT March 11, 1900 Sydenham, Ontario 1837 6 John 1838 May 21, 1920 Mulmur, Dufferin County, Ontario 7 James 1843 July 8, 1912 Regina, Saskatchewan 8 Jane 1844 October 19, 1921 New Westminster, B.C. 9 Catherine 1845 June 16, 1914 Alliston, Ontario 10 Allen 1871 December 1871 Tosorontio, Ontario

Third Generation 36 Henry Brett was born in Sligo, Ireland, in 1831, and died March 9, 1901 in Ontario aged 70.His body was interred in Thompson Methodist Cemetery, Adjala township near Rosemont, Ontario Henry married twice.He married Margaret Jenkins, Simcoe County, Norfold, Ontario on March 22, 1855.Margaret was born in Ireland in 1840 and died on December 28, 1872 in Ontario, aged 34. THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Lions and cities, markets and sands: Travels in Africa and Qatar

By Stephen Flanagan

Airports form a sort of mesh-world of anywhere bus. There was, I thought, a and were getting just that. We left the their own, not fully connected to the touch of the shipping container about campsite and drove on bumpy roads normal world, existing within it and it. There was no air-conditioning, but that climbed constantly upwards. The beyond it. Nairobi airport in Kenya with some of the windows open there morning mist had still not burned is an outpost of that world like any was a tolerable airflow. What it lacked away, and for a long time we couldn’t other - from within it, you could be in comfort it made up for in sense of get much of a view. But finally we in Europe or America or anywhere. adventure. There were just nine of us rounded a bend and saw clearly out We passed through immigration on the trip in total, plus Martin, the over the Ngorongoro Crater. slowly, picked up our bags after some guide, Becky, the driver, and Albert, It was like gazing down on Eden. carousel confusion, found our way to the cook. The rim of the crater is essentially the exit, and met the chap who had We set off early. I stared out the a circular mountain and we were been dispatched by the hotel to pick window and tried to get a sense of the positioned near its top, looking out us up. Only when we were on the road place, what it was like. Very quickly over the green flat land and glittering did it feel like we were in a different the first-world-style buildings of the lakes of the crater below. Far over continent and country. centre of Nairobi fell away, and the the over side, about 15 km away, Traffic was hardly moving due to a dwellings and shops and buildings the mountain rim curved around and crash somewhere up ahead, but rather were made from bare cinderblock enclosed the whole space. We could than wait it out on the road surface, walls and corrugated iron roofs. The see hundreds of dots on the grass that some people were driving their cars further we drove the more improvised at first I thought were rocks but which along the clay ‘lanes’ to the left and the construction became - blue plastic were actually wildebeest and bison. right of the road itself. At times these sheeting, bare earth floors, sticks and It’s like a hidden, sealed-off world. paths tilted dangerously, like an logs, mud walls, whatever could be The crater was formed two million impromptu off-road course, but people pulled together. years ago when a mountain about the took them on with all sorts of vehicles, Much of the life of the people we same size as Kilimanjaro exploded, a from ancient Fiestas to modern SUVs. passed was lived outside, in the open, mind-bogglingly massive event that In fact so many people did it that those in the shadow of trees to stave off the shattered the land around and raised ‘lanes’ too became blocked, and then worst of the heat. That was where they the circular mountain of the rim edge. eventually the people who had gone played with their children and cooked It flooded the area with magma which off-road had to rejoin the main road, meals and fixed bicycles and had naps cooled over time to form the flat plane creating further chaos. Our driver just and an uncountable myriad of other we were looking down at. Today it’s shook his head at it all, and seemed things. I have literally hours of footage a place of exceptional beauty and untempted to join in. on my phone taken out the windows, unusualness, something straight from We were there for a trip that would trying to capture this life as we passed science fiction. take us 1,400km overland from it. It almost felt voyeuristic to see it, We stayed in the crater for several Nairobi in Kenya to Zanzibar in if one can apply such a concept to the very happy hours, then drove northeast Tanzania, and then onward to Doha view from a huge box full of tourists along a bumpy, unpaved road. We in Qatar. For the Africa section we mounted on a truck. But none of the stopped at the official entrance gate were part of a group, and from then on footage captures what I was trying to to the Serengeti for a while, where we would be independent again. We record, the variety and depth of it, and quite a lot of paperwork seemed to be joined our tour early the next morning how different it was to anything I’d required, and then drove through to and met our travelling companions. seen before. the Serengeti itself. Our conveyance for the overland Long grass, an endless plane, a trip was a ‘converted truck’: the For the next few days of the journey huge sky, isolated trees scattered as unmodified cab and load bed of a truck we were leaving our truck behind and if by some not-understood pattern: but with a big white box for tourists proceeding in two Toyota 4X4s which this must be something like what we mounted on it, turning it into a go- had been built for a lifetime of hard use all came from in the beginning. We

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go and watch the stars, crystal white or shimmering colour, timeless and uncaring. Nothing else makes me feel so strongly the fleetingness of our time on earth.

A new phase of the trip began, back in our original truck driving deep into the mountains of Tanzania in long days of slow, bumpy travel, through ‘villages’ that were sometimes home to 20,000 people. One night we stayed at a campsite high in the mountains, and the next morning a local guide took us out for a walk around. The area is lush and green with vegetation that to my Irish eyes is unfamiliar. A mother gazelle with her newly-born fawn Bananas and coffee and palm trees drove among herds of zebras and confidence and more stability than and avocados grow there, and narrow wildebeest, thousands and thousands before. We had to leave, but we took unsurfaced roads cut through the of them from the foreground to the comfort in the fact that the moment hills. It looks like you could take out far distance, laced with warthogs, of the fawn’s walking seemed not far your machete and slash through wild buffalo, elephants, hippos wallowing away. jungle into the distance, but of course in pools, birds slicing through the air or hovering with intent. In the distance we saw a rhino, its enormous horn like a thermonuclear weapon attached to a juggernaut of armour. Seeing it from far away was somehow even better than seeing it up close, the outline of it stark and grey and threatening against the green of the grass. There was no mistaking who belonged in this world, and who was just passing through. Then finally, as we were on the way to our camp, we saw something so pure and fragile it brought gasps form all of us: a gazelle nuzzling at a fawn born just moments previously. If a newborn fawn does not get up and move within a very short period of time, it will not survive. The mother pushed at it gently, encouraging and firm. The fawn took a few steps but Zebras in the Serengeti fell, sitting again, so young and fragile That night, after the tents and dinner that’s not actually the case - the land is it was hardly there. The mother kept and some beers by the fire, the stars owned and farmed. pushing, kept encouraging. Again it were exhilarating. The Milky Way Much local work comes from being failed, and again it was encouraged. arced across the sky, the flat edge porters for trips up Kilimanjaro, We watched transfixed, the sun of the disk of our galaxy, a hundred and we were shown a three-storey setting, the time when you are legally billion suns. Every spot in the sky was building that had been set up as a required to be out of the park (for heavy with stars of varying luminosity, school for the porters. It had been your own safety) approaching. In the from bright points to barely-visible abandoned for lack of interest from last moments before we had to drive glimmers. Some people dream of a the target population, and sat empty off, the fawn stood and took a few beach house or a New York apartment, and unused. That seemed strange to steps and fell again, but with more but give me a little place where I can me at the time, but our guide explained

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hot conditions before they were sold. Some of the slaves were so weak from being transported to the location that they were not expected to live long, and were sold as a ‘job lot’, a term in that context loaded with such inhumanity that it has become etched into my mind. The money and labour from this trade built Zanzibar. It is fitting the church is on the site of the market now, because we should be howling to the void in contrition for what we have done. And yet the excellent museum at the site talked also about slavery today, in the 21st century, when by some estimates there are more people enslaved now than there A lion in the Serengeti surveying his kingdom ever were in the past. The whole visit more about it later. The tribe who to school in the cities, and they largely was an unsettling, guilty experience. lives in the mountains (somewhere did not live in the mountains. They We might want to mentally constrain around 1.5m people) are organised had houses there, though, huge, gated slavery to the more savage eras of the into a strict system of classes: upper affairs with immaculate views over past, but we can take no such comfort. class, middle class, and lower class. lush, steep mountain landscapes. My last glimpse of Africa was from (Those were the terms he used.) All of Every big house we saw seemed the window of the plane, and then that the society is then structured around empty. The lower class people have section of the trip was fully over. We those divisions. Upper class people no history of education, and are not barely touched the surface of Africa, are the politicians and rich people; encouraged to think that way, so the never mind scratched it, yet I feel I middle class are teachers, doctors, school sat empty. Various NGOs and have been changed by what I saw lawyers, and the guide himself; lower Tanzanian government initiatives there. class, making up about 70% of the are underway to try and improve the population by our guide’s estimate, situation for the lower classes, but no We arrived late in Doha, Qatar, were porters and workers on the easy solutions are evident. roughly half way from Zanzibar to land. Middle class children were Ireland, and didn’t see much on the sent to school in the village; lower The trip finished in Zanzibar, where journey from the airport to the city class people were not educated at all. we said rushed goodbyes to our centre except the modern multi-lane Upper class people sent their children companions that felt abrupt after the highway and a hint of desert sands constant togetherness of the previous beyond. It was the next morning when two weeks. Katie and I had one extra the full weight of the context-change day by ourselves and we went to see the kicked in and the new world seemed site of the old slave market. A church almost like a projection rather than a stands there now on what was a place real experience. We were staying in of desperate horrors. At the time of the heart of the old city at the edge of the market there was a tree (the exact the Souk Wakif, a famous market that spot is now marked by a circle on the is a network of covered alleys lined marble floor inside the church) where with hundreds of smalls shops, selling slaves were tied and whipped before everything from perfume to swords to sale, because the better they withstood kittens to parrots. the whipping the higher their sale On our first day we did not fully price would be. The cells where they understand how punishing the heat were held before the market still exist could be, even in April when the full underneath a building not far away, heat of summer is still some time off, a low stone space of hardly any light so we decided to walk the few blocks where more than 70 slaves at a time to the Museum of Islamic Art. It was The market of Souk Wakif in Doha were kept in foul, cramped, savagely my decision, and a poor one. The

39 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 sun was heavy and grinding, and the clear desert air makes things seem closer than they are. The heat was omnidirectional, acting on all parts of your body simultaneously. It makes you long to escape it, but on the street there is no escape. Even the shade of a tree offers only partial relief. We arrived at the museum overheated and dehydrated. The air-conditioning of the huge space was like plunging into an invisible multidimensional bath of pure relief. We got water and coffee and sat for a while and recovered. The museum itself is a huge, modern building that was clearly built without regard to cost and with the intention of impressing its visitors. Two The future site of the 2022 World Cup final staircases spiral up through a huge When the heat faded that evening On our final day we were picked up central space with a complex domed we went for a walk on the Corniche, in the afternoon for a visit to the desert. roof, and the exhibit areas on each the 7km pedestrian area that follows We drove south along the highway we floor are laid out around it. Lighting is the curve of the bay. Across the had taken from the airport and kept an important design consideration in water were the skyscrapers of the going on into the desert. Sand dunes Arabic culture, and in the museum the West Bay, bathed in electric lights and oil refineries rose on either side but lighting was beautiful, objects shown of different colours, built of complex there were almost no other buildings. off in pools of brightness in dim arcs and curves and balconies and It’s hard to escape the impression there rooms. The exhibits themselves were minarets, a modern, multi-coloured is nothing much in Qatar except sand objects from throughout the Arabic Arabic-style Manhattan. What, I and oil. About half an hour from the world - thousand-year-old bowls, wondered, will become of all of this city centre we passed the place where deep blue ceramics, carved wooden in a century or two when the oil has they are constructing the stadium that panels, intricate calligraphy, complex run out or the world has moved on? will be used for the World Cup final brass astrolabes that seemed as much Not much imagination was required in 2022. Qatar is apparently spending magic as science. It was a wonderful to see sand blowing through canyons a scarcely-credible $100bn US dollars place to wander around. of abandoned buildings as the desert on infrastructure in preparation for the slowly reclaimed what was hers. tournament, including seven stadia in total. That night we took a long walk on the Corniche, past the dhows and the parliament building and almost to the north end of the bay. The buildings of the West Bay glowed and changed colour across the water. The air was warm, pleasant, almost soothing, like the warmest summer night at home. It felt like we had been on the road for a long time, and were coming to the end of an intense burst of newness and experience. In my mind I can still feel exactly what it was like to be there, the smells and sensations of it, how far away it felt. Don’t listen to anyone who tells you the world is getting smaller; it is vast and endless and timeless and unknowable. The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha 40 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 The Cailleach Bherra: A witch through the ages

By Lynda Hart

were created by the flying witch dropping stones from her white apron. She is in this context the Ice Age – her white apron was analogous to the glaciers carrying the large erratic boulders that were deposited on the landscape as the glaciers retreated and the land warmed and was used by our Neolithic ancestors to build monuments. Loughcrew, also known as Sleive Cailleach (The Hill of the Hag), has a large kerbstone on the north side of Cairn T known as the Hag’s Chair. The Cailleach is also closely Fig 1: Cailleach a Bhérra House, the house of the winter witch identified with the seasons. As Four peaks in the Ballygawley domestic, deer and cattle, and then the winter witch her time starts at mountains are topped with a Neolithic with sharpness, pointed or shrill, Samhain, (literally summer’s end: 31 passage tomb – Sleive Deane, connecting here with winter, wildness October) or Halloween. She kidnaps Aghamore Far, Sleive Dargan and the and cold. In Scotland she is The Hag the young goddess Brid (Bridget) Cailleach a Bhérra House, the house or Veiled One and she is a weather who represents spring and summer of the winter witch (Fig 1). and ancestor deity. As the Queen of and keeps her prisoner all through the The line of peaks is associated with Winter she fights against Spring and winter, but eventually Brid escapes the Cailleach Bherra, as when viewed the staff she carries freezes the ground and a battle ensues. Brid triumphs from certain positions the entire range it touches. Here in Ireland she is also over the witch at Imbolc (February appears to represent the prone figure the witch of winter and is connected 1) and so spring then summer return. of the sleeping witch (Fig 2). to the land and the weather. (Hopefully!) The Cailleach, the hag, or the witch Across the island of Ireland, Sometimes we see the Cailleach is a particularly-long lived myth. The building myths tell how she creates as one of the three ages of women. name Bhérra has many connotations. the mountains and valleys. The Beara Brid, the maiden, is youth. Maeve (as Geoŕoid Ó Crualaoich attributes twin Peninsula is named from her and it in Queen Maeve of Connacht) is of meanings to the name Bhérra. Firstly, is said that both of the large passage middle age, and the Cailleach of old the cow goddess or association tomb complexes at Carrowmore, Co age and wisdom. They are goddesses with horned beasts, both wild and Sligo and at Lough Crew, Co Meath in this context, and the iconic tri- spiral found at Newgrage, Co Meath, is said by some to link these three to a spiritual past. Certainly, Queen Maeve is portrayed not only as a warrior queen but as a goddess – to become king, Ailill has to marry a goddess and so marry the land. In the legend of Niall of the Nine Hostages, Niall’s father Eochaid decides to hold a number of contests to see which of his sons are worthy to succeed him. After the contest, Fig 2: Four peaks of the Ballygawley mountains are said to represent the sleeping witch in which they have to enter burning

41 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 buildings, make weapons and go hunting, there is no real winner. So next, they were tasked with going out and fetching some water. The brothers search out a well, only to find it is guarded by a hideous hag who demands a kiss in payment for the water. The brothers Fergus and Ailill refuse outright. Fichrae gives the witch a short peck on the cheek but it is not enough to satisfy her. Niall not only kisses her, but lies with her where she reveals herself as a beautiful maiden and the Goddess of Sovereignty. She tells him she is the Sovereignty of Ireland, and that he and only he will become and then Fig 3: The stones of the Thief, the Boy and the Cow his descendants thereafter. of stones known as the Thief, the Boy youth and old age. She is wise. And The Cailleach is also known as and the Cow. (Fig 3) how old are these legends? And where Caorthannach or the Devil’s mother. In his 1895 book, The Dolmens of did they begin? Were they brought by On the south-east slopes of the Ox Ireland, William Borlase says the hag our ancestors as they moved further mountains is Tullaghan Well (The is known as the Garavogue, the name northwards, bringing with them Hawkswell), which is mentioned in of the river running through Sligo. domesticated animals and crops? the Book of Ballymote (c. 1391AD) In his poem The Hosting of the Sidè, People who might have told the stories and was said to have the properties WB Yeats writes: as a way of passing knowledge about of the sea, that it ebbs and flows with The host is riding from Knocknarea, planting and reaping. both fresh and salt water. over the grave of Clooth-na-bare; Academics find it unlikely. They find One legend says that St Patrick had Is this a corruption of Cailleach a it hard to accept that these tales could banished all the demons from Ireland Bhérra, misheard perhaps during the even be pre-Christian, let alone older. at Croagh Patrick, but one escaped, telling of a tale? It would seem likely But two stories: One of a Neolithic the caorthannach. Patrick chased when you consider the close proximity passage tomb on a mountain top in her across Ireland. On her way, she of the Cailleach a Bhérra’s house to Asturias, Spain, a witch, spinning, polluted every well she passed. At Knocknarea. control of weather, seasons and Tullaghan St Patrick prayed for water animals… The other of a Neolithic to quench his thirst and the Tullaghan Throughout Europe we find the passage tomb in Ballygawley, Co well appeared before him full of fresh witch. In Spain, she is known as Sligo on top of a mountain, a witch, clean water, and he was able to defeat La Vieya (The Old One) and in the spinning, controlling the weather, the caorthannach. Basque Country she is Mouro. La the seasons and animals… For me, Another local legend tells of a Vieya lives on top of a mountain and these legends must be connected young boy who is employed by the controls the weather and animals. The and therefore so are the people. In Cailleach to milk her cow. Each day stories are similar, and they all feel Early Christian times saints were the boy climbs the mountain of the very old. often portrayed as having almost Cailleach Bherra and milks the cow, Unlike ‘modern’ depictions of superhuman skills to set them apart, which produces the sweetest thickest witches, the Cailleach/La Vieya so flying, monument creating witches milk. Each evening he tells his father and the Scottish versions do not could have been a precursor. of this wonderful cow and her magical have broomsticks. However, many However long she has been around, milk, the best in Ireland. So the father were said to have wands or spinning the witch endures, and the passage decides to steal the cow for himself. spindles. These spindles and spinning tomb which bears her name will keep One night he and the boy climb the in general are an important aspect the stories and the speculation alive mountain to the witch’s house and of theses legends. Sometimes the for generations to come. take the cow from her enclosure. stories say that the witch spins stone However before they make their -- monuments from her spindle. Sources escape the witch awakens, and cursing Is the Cailleach Mother Nature? Listoghill: A Seasonal Alignment? – them she turns them all to stone. At She certainly controls the seasons and Padraig Meehan The Book of the Cailleach – G. Ó the base of the mountain known as the the weather. She has power over both Crualaoich Cailleach a Bhérra’s House is a row wild and domesticated animals. She is

42 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 A medal for Fr Pat 57 years late On 29 July 2017 Alfie Banks presented was blissfully unaware. the Ballymote 1960 Minor team were a County Sligo Minor Gaelic football Some of his team mates and club Denis Kennedy, Jim Sreenan, Justin championship winner’s medal to members realised what had happened Henry, Thomas Keenan, Tommy Fr Pat Rogers CP, Mount Argus, and when Fr Pat celebrated the McCann, Stepho Benton, Paddy Dublin, and formerly of O’Connell St, golden jubilee of his ordination, the Cunney, Brendan Benton, Brendan Ballymote. This ceremony took place matter of the medal was brought to Coleman, Neal Farry, Joe McGovern, in Ballymote Nursing Unit. his attention. Ballymote GAA Club Shane Gilhawley, Marcus Henry, Fr Pat had played a prominent organised a reunion of the victorious Sean Davey, Paddy Prior, Hubert role as a full forward in assisting the 1960 Minor team in Doddy’s function McDermott, John Cassidy, Liam Ballymote team to qualify for the room on Friday 28 July 2017. Kerins, Peadar Brennan, Raphael Sligo county minor final that was Due to ill-health, Alfie, who had Cassidy, Jim Donohue, Vincent Hever, played in Corran Park on Sunday been the successful coach of the 1960 Seamus Fahey and David Martin. The 3 September 1960. Unfortunately, Minor football team, was unable to other members of Alfie’s management Pat was unable to play in the final attend the function. His son Alan team were John Kivlehan, Eugene because he had entered the Passionist performed the medal presentation to Fr Gilhawley and Joe O’Hara. Six weeks Novitiate on Friday 1 September. Due Pat. The following afternoon, Saturday after the medal presentation, Alfie to an oversight, Pat Rogers did not 29 July, Alfie completed the medal Banks passed to his eternal reward. Ar receive his winner’s medal when they presentation to Fr Pat in Ballymote dheis De go raibh a anam. were distributed, a fact of which he Nursing Unit. The other members of

Michael Doyle By Padraig McDermott

Michael Doyle was born in teacher in Ballymote in 1868. He was erected in front of the courthouse Floughena, Doocastle, in December also secretary of the INTO. Michael in Ballymote and unveiled in May 1946. He trained as a teacher in retired in 1913 and later passed away 1930. The principal speaker was Sean London and took a teaching post in in July 1928, at the age of 82 years. Devaney, NT, Ballinacarrow. Offaly. He was appointed principal A memorial to Michael Doyle was 43 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 The Napoleonic signal towers of Rathlee and Carrowmably

By Sam Moore

the Rathlee tower, which was number and a number of British commanders, 65 on the official list. Carrowmably including Lord Hardwicke, Ireland’s (number 66) was next and the others Lord Lieutenant, highlighted the lack in Co Sligo were at Knocklane, of coastal defences in Ireland. Streedagh and Mullaghmore, none of Robert Emmet’s failed rising of July which are standing today. 1803 renewed Britain’s fears that there may be another French invasion. This Background to why they were built threat stimulated a massive building The French Republic was at war programme of fortification and with Britain in 1793 and the United barrack construction around Ireland. Irishmen, inspired by the American This included the construction of 50 War of Independence and the French Martello Towers between 1804 and Revolution, began seeking French 1815, which were circular gun towers intervention to establish an Irish for artillery, often associated with Republic through an armed uprising. further gun placements or batteries, Initial efforts by Wolfe Tone, a leader and the 81 Signal Towers constructed of the United Irishmen, persuaded the around the coast, which included French government to send a number Rathlee and Carrowmably. of military expeditions. Between 1796 Rathlee Signal Tower (with WWII and 1798 there were various French The Signal Towers lookout post) showing first floor attempts to invade Ireland, but many Signal Towers were defensible entrance and machicolation of these failed due to poor decisions guardhouses for a naval signal crew (Image: Sam Moore) by French officers, bad luck or bad and military guard, each built to a There are many spots along the weather conditions for landings, similar design comprising a square northwest of Ireland without very good such as the first French expedition plan (c. 4.5m square internally), mobile phone coverage, so it might be at Bantry, Co Cork, in December with two storeys (c. 9m high) and an a surprise that back in 1804 the towers 1796. A month-long Irish rising was entrance at first floor level, usually on found at Rathlee and Carrowmably suppressed by the end of June 1798, the seaward side which was accessed in west Co Sligo were examples of which was followed by the arrival of by a ladder (as were the internal floors cutting-edge communication systems. three French frigates at Killala, Co and roof). The walls are around 0.6m The two impressive towers found Mayo on 22 August 1798 with 1,000 thick, originally faced with hanging on prominent coastal locations at men led by General Humbert, who slates for protection against bad Rathlee, between Enniscrone and was defeated at Ballinamuck, Co weather, and the wall opposite the Easkey, and Carrowmably, just north Longford. Another planned French entrance is slightly thicker or splayed of Dromore West, are both Signal invasion, which included Wolfe to accommodate a fireplace and Towers built between 1804 and 1805. Tone and 3,000 men, surrendered chimney. The ground floor windows There were 81 of these structures to a superior British naval force off constructed and they extend around the coast of Donegal on 11 October the Irish coastline from Dublin to 1798. Further intervention occurred, Bantry in Co Cork and up along the but because of Humbert’s defeat at west coast as far as Malin Head in Co Ballinamuck, none were successful. Donegal. Each station was in visual Defences of many harbours around contact with the stations either side Ireland, such as Bantry, Cork and of it, and using a combination of flags Lough Swilly, were strengthened and four balls they could relay signals following these invasions. Peace with Carrowmably Signal Tower with to each adjoining station or to offshore France came about with the Treaty two enclosures. The massive, ships. There was a tower at Creevagh, of Amiens in 1802, but there was a probably prehistoric, internally near Kilcummin, on the west side of renewal of the war against France ditched enclosure is c.130m in Killalla Bay, Co Mayo, then there was and Napoleon Bonaparte in 1803, diameter (Image: www.flashearth.com) 44 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

crew included a signal lieutenant, a midshipman and two signalmen of the Sea Fencibles. Military guards of five to seven yeomanry or infantry were also located at the signal station. Rathlee and Carrowmably therefore they had approximately ten men at each site. The guard was primarily due to the unsettled nature of political conditions in Ireland, which necessitated the provision of protection of the towers. The towers had a signalling mast, made of an old topmast from a ship, and was c. 15m high. A rectangular flag, a narrow blue-coloured triangular flag, and four black balls made of hoops covered with canvas were hoisted in various arrangements to convey different messages. It is a form of semaphore or coastal telegraph, based on a system established by the French by 1794 and adopted by the British Admiralty on the south and east coasts of England by 1795 before arriving to Ireland in 1804.

Rathlee and Carrowmably Rathlee tower had begun to be constructed at nearby Lenadoon Point but was moved to its present position for a better viewing distance. There is Distribution of Signal Towers (Image by M. Brennan after Clements (2013) a possibility it was built on the site of Fig. 7.17) an earlier O’Dowd castle, which was are relatively small, with taller Within the centre of this extension was occupied by one of his sub-lords called ones on the first floor, and all were a signal mast (see below). Some of the O’Loinseachain. In 1641 there is also protected by iron shutters. Above the towers may have had been equipped a reference to fleeing Protestants who entrance is a machicolation, with two by 12 pounder cannons, and built into took refuge in Rathlee with Oliver more on the landward corners of the the wall at Rathlee is a cannon ball Albanagh. The tower was built to tower. These are box-like structures for this size cannon, which was found the second floor by September 1804 with openings between the supporting by a local priest some time ago. It is and was completed with the signal corbels, through which missiles could worth noting that the Carrowmably mast being erected a year later. The be dropped on attackers or they could tower (referred to as Carrownrush on signal lieutenant had been appointed be fired upon. the Ordnance Survey maps) is located at Rathlee by July 1805. In December The towers provided within a massive possible prehistoric 1805 the commander of the Sea accommodation for the signal crew internally-ditched enclosure c.130m Fencibles of Mayo and Sligo, Captain and military guard. The first floor diameter. Lecky, is recorded as ordering was partitioned into a room for the furniture, firing and candles for the lieutenant and the remaining space The Signal Crews and the Signal defensible guard houses at the six had a ladder access to ground floor Masts stations in No 4 Sea Fencible District, and roof level. The ground floor was The men stationed at each Signal with its headquarters at Killala (Ireland where the guard was accommodated Tower were drawn from the Sea was divided up into 21 districts). The and an auxiliary timber-built hut was Fencibles, a type of naval reserve made six towers of district No 4 were the constructed next to the tower. Most up of local fishermen and merchant ones that stretched from Creevagh, towers had a stone-walled or turf- seamen commanded by naval officers Co Mayo to Rathlee, Carrowmably, banked enclosure around them with a including signal lieutenants. The Rosskeragh (Knocklane), Streedagh fan-shaped extension on the seaward officers were usually those who and Mullaghmore, Co Sligo. side to form a defensive perimeter. were on half-pay. Each Signal Tower Dampness and structural issues saw

45 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

in Cork, Sir James Hawkins-Whitshed (from Raphoe Co Donegal), was informed by the British government that the signal towers from in the to Horn Head in Co Donegal, including all those in Co Sligo, were to be abandoned. Some were re-used during the war with the United States 1812-15 but all were finally closed down by 1816. A considerable number of Signal Towers around Ireland were the sites chosen to locate World War Two lookout posts as part of the Coast Watching A drawing of Malin Head Signal Tower in 1808 showing the ladder access Service, as was the case at Rathlee. to the first floor entrance, the signal mast and auxiliary timber hut (Image: Board of Trinity College, Dublin) Further Reading Clements, B. 2013 Billy Pitt had them built: repairs being carried out at Rathlee 1804 and 1817 cost the British military Napoleonic towers in Ireland. Holliwell Press, Stamford in 1806. Carrowmably (referred to £250,000; equivalent to around Kerrigan, P. 1995 Castles and fortifications in as Carrowmabla Hill in the records) €630,000,000 today. Following Ireland 1485-1945. The Collins Press, Cork. was also completed by September Admiral Nelson’s victory over the O’Sullivan, M and Downey, L. 2012. Martello and signal towers. Archaeology Ireland, 26 1805. Each tower cost approximately French and Spanish fleets at the Battle (2), 46-9 £600 to build and the construction of Trafalgar in 1805, there was less of Martello towers, batteries and the threat of invasion. In September 1809 Signal Towers that were built between the Irish Commander-in-Chief based

Pubs of Ballymote in 1910 Pubs of BallymoteBy Padraig McDermott in 1910

By Padraig McDermott Current/Last owners Previous owners in order of ownership O’Connell Street: 1 Des Kielty J. O’Hara, T. Scully 2 Batty Cawley Thomas E. O’Brien, John Cawley 3 John Hannan John Hannan 4 David Cunningham Tom Killoran, Tommy Walsh 5 John Doddy Peter Henry, J Markey, Frank McDonagh, John Rogers 6 J Berreen J Berreen 7 Gerry Gormley (Corner House) John McDonagh, J.A. Flanagan, J.J. Coleman, Clancy’s, White, P. Scanlon, Ross 8 Mark Henry Mark McGann’s, M.J. Henry 9 Nora & William Rogers Nora and Willliam Rogers 10 Bernie Kelly Bernie Kelly 11 Paul James Kielty 1910-1960 12 Stephenson (Fawlty Towers) Batty Coughlan, James Gilmartin, M.T. Tighe, Pat Egan, John Joe Kielty, T. Quigley, ? Temple 13 Sylvester Kerins Carley’s, Tom Quigley 14 John Farry John Farry (Wolfe Tone)

Market Street: (Lord Edward St.) 15 Michael Donnelan Pat Barlow, Jim McGettrick 16 Tommy Rogers Dawsons 17 Jerry McCarthy M. Phillips, L. Harte, T. Keenan, M. Gannon, T. Quigley, Daveys 18 Johnstons Morrison’s Hotel, Hannans, Flannery. 19 Michael Perry James Hannan, Luke Hayden 20 Dick Molloys Matthew Gallagher 21 Mrs Mulhern Daveys

Teeling Street 22 Denis &Donough Tighe Pat Coughlan, J. Healy, Thomas Tighe 23 Perrys Joe Mullarkey, Brian Dwyer, 24 Mattimoes Henry Gorman, T. Hunt 25 Michael Scully Begleys, Kilkennys, B. Colby. 26 Derek Droughton Lipsetts

Emmet Street 27 Andrew Walsh Andrew Walsh (The Stand Alone Pub)

46 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Sligo, Cliffoney, Davitt and the Land League

By Joe McGowan

‘If Athens shall appear great to you,’ said Pericles, ‘consider then that her glories were purchased by valiant men, and by men who learned their duty.’ 1

Just recently I passed by one of the many housing developments, at Cliffoney, Co Sligo that, all over a brash new affluent Ireland, had sprung up abundantly during the ‘Celtic Tiger’ years. As I looked at the new bungalows and uprooted mountains of earth I stopped to ponder: ‘Do the new generation ever pause to think for a moment of the sacrifices made by their ancestors in these same fields, now building sites, of not so very long ago? Have they stopped to reflect on the men and women whose life’s blood and sweat intermingles with the clay that is now so indifferently heaved up by great earth moving monsters? What do they, or we, know The Farm as it is today, formerly Lord Ashley’s land of the Cliffoney Land Fight?’ memory lives on in the hearts of a Michael Davitt’s name is well known No! Concrete and steel shall not grateful few. We owe these selfless to history and needs no elaboration bury, cannot extinguish, the deeds of forbears a debt of gratitude that, here. He formed the Land league these stout-hearted ancestors. Their although it can never be repaid, should in 1879 at Castlebar, Co Mayo. never be forgotten. Here then is one of Advocating civil resistance on a their stories. massive scale, he inspired and instilled pride at mass meetings not just in Co The Cliffoney Land Fight: Some Sligo but all over Ireland. It was time background to rid our nation once and for all of the By the late 1800s the Irish people, evils of landlordism and rackrenting, defeated in countless rebellions, he declared. At a great meeting at were impoverished and debased. Gurteen Co Sligo on November 2nd he Their desire for freedom was, to was arrested by the RIC for sedition all human appearances, dead and and immediately lodged in Sligo jail. buried at last. Our English rulers The high profile trial that followed had finally subjected a pauperised made a mockery of what passed for people; they need never again fear law in Ireland and gained national the uprising of a hostile Irish nation. and international support for the Land So it appeared! League. But even the downtrodden cling In villages all over Ireland, in to hope, their bodies oppressed but Cliffoney, Grange, Ballymote and their spirit irrepressible. The quarry at Mullaghmore, people watched bay forgets fear and fights to survive. and were imbued with a new Michael Davitt in 1904, aged 58

47 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 determination. The agitations on soldiers and RIC came to stop them, of the five men and demanding that Captain Boycott’s estates gave a new they returned at night and worked by they be released. It was decided to pride to the people and a new word to light of moon and lamp. When their hold a fund-raising dance in the hall. the English language. Landlords were horses were impounded they attached Admissions were fixed at one shilling ostracized and ‘boycotted’ up and ropes and pulled the ploughs through and sixpence for the men and one down the land. the field by the strength of their backs shilling for the ladies. and legs. ‘I refuse to Recognise the Court’ Following one incident of open When the case came to court again, defiance, five men (Patrick McHugh, Andrew Conway as spokesman Creevymore; Peter ‘John Bán’ refused to give evidence saying: ‘As a Gilmartin, Creevykeel; Charlie soldier of the Irish Republican Army McGarrigle, DC; Andrew Conway, I refuse to recognise the court.’ The and Owen Leonard, all of Cliffoney) judge said the men would have to be were prosecuted at Grange District punished and handed down a sentence Court at the instigation of Robert of two months at hard labour to Mc Bracken, Lord Ashley’s agent. They Hugh and Conway. were charged with unlawful assembly. Blazing tar barrels lined the route Sgt Perry4 and Constable Casey of the and a huge crowd greeted the men’s RIC gave evidence against the men. return from Sligo jail some months later. ‘The Farm’ was eventually ‘We take over this land in the name divided among local people and is of the Irish Republic’ now a housing estate. Thus ends the The men had the full support of story of ‘The Cliffoney Land Fight’, the locality. On the morning they one of many, many similar incidents were being brought to court, the that occurred, not just in North Sligo, road to Grange, a distance of four but all over Ireland, triggered by miles, was strewn with broken fearless men and women prepared to A boycott sign bottles and barbed wire. Sgt Perry risk all in defence of their rights. ‘Hold the rents and hold the crops, took the witness box and gave boys evidence that on the date in question: Lest we forget! Pass the word from town to town ‘There was about 80 people opposite Rejoicing in a free, new and prosperous Pull away the props, boys the Fr O’Flanagan Hall with spades land, let us not forget the heroism of And we’ll pull coercion down…’ 2 and ploughs, approximately five these gallant forbears. No less than ploughs and ten horses. The crowd, Pericles’ tribute above we too had Freedom’s Struggle headed by the Bunduff Band, marched our freedoms purchased by valiant Passive resistance met with a measure on to the public road, on to Col men and women. Should we not then of success. The literary renaissance Ashley’s farm and went in there. One raise a monument or marker to those of the late 19th century instilled a of the crowd cried “Halt!” heroes of dogged determination and new pride. All were streams that ‘This man then said: indomitable spirit; these men who joined, swelled, and burst forth in ‘”Now men, we take over this land pulled the heavy iron ploughs with an unstoppable flood with the Easter in the name of the Irish Republic from calloused hands and strong backs at Rebellion of 1916. In 1918 the WW Ashley at £1.0.0 per acre or five dead of night! people of Cliffoney and Mullaghmore shillings per rood.” Until that day comes this article continued to be a part of that mass ‘The crowd cheered and then is dedicated to the heroes of the movement. They engaged in struggle witness spoke to the crowd telling ‘Cliffoney Land Fight’ until, by a on all fronts, both militant and passive. them that they were breaking the better deed, a more fitting memorial is One of these incidents became known law and advising them to clear out. raised in their honour. as the Cliffoney Land Fight. A man in the crowd whom witness Footnotes In spring 1918 a party of local recognised said they did not recognise 1. The Golden Age of Athenian culture people, under the leadership of the the authority of the law and the crowd flourished under the leadership of local Sinn Fein committee, decided to then proceeded to dig and plough the Pericles (495-429BC), a brilliant general, orator, patron of the arts and politician take over a section of Lord Ashley’s3 farm.’ 2. Fanny Parnell, sister of Charles land, known as ‘The Farm’, near After the court hearing a mass Stewart Parnell 3. Owner of Classiebawn Castle, Cliffoney village. They ploughed and meeting was held at the Fr O’Flanagan Mullaghmore, at that time cultivated the land by day. When the Hall in Cliffoney protesting the arrest 4. Killed in the ‘Moneygold ambush’ October 1920 48 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Earl of Erne’s Sligo estate By John C McTernan

At the close of the 17th century a portion of the Earl of Strafford’s extensive Sligo estate had been acquired by Benjamin Burton, a Dublin Alderman and a banker of note, for £10,780. In 1713 he leased five in the parish of Kilmacowen to Colonel William Smith of Cloverhill (1676- 1740) – Rathmacole, Carrowkeel, Knocknashammer (also known as Cloverhill), Farrin McLoughlin, Breeoge (also known as Breeogue), and Carrowmore. Each was about 1,500 acres, and the annual rent was £117. The colonel was the eldest son of Roger Smith, whose ancestors hailed from Staffordshire, and was the first of the name to settle at Cloverhill. He filled the post of Governor of Sligo in 1697. In the early 18th century Roger Cloverhill House Smith built a three-storey gable-ended Smith Ward. Prior to his death in Sligo. From the succession of John residence consisting of seven bays and 1770, he bequeathed his real estate to Creighton as 3rd Earl in 1842 they tall narrow windows with flush frames. his mother to pass on her death to his styled themselves Earls of Erne, and A two-storey annex and front porch uncle, Abraham Creighton of Crom 30 years later altered the spelling of the were later additions. For over two Castle, with the remainder to his son surname from Creighton to Crichton. centuries it was a familiar landmark and heir apparent, John Creighton, The 3rd Earl is remembered as the in the Kilmacowen countryside and in and his issue male. The Earl derived employer of Captain Charles Boycott, the 1730s was described as ‘standing the property, consisting in the region whose relationship with workers on three miles from Sligo by the side of of 2,000 acres, originally held under the Erne estate in Mayo resulted in a pleasant lake greatly shaded with a perpetuity lease from Benjamin giving the English language the term plantations, and had good gardens and Burton, in 1792 from Meliora Ward, boycott. gravel walks’. In 1727 William Smith nee Creighton, the heiress of William In September 1859 John Creighton, willed his estate to Nicholas Ward of Smith of Cloverhill. In 1797 Lord Erne the 3rd Earl, paid a visit to Cloverhill Knockballymore, Co, , purchased the fee simple of the Sligo House, the seat of his agent, William and his heirs male. estate for £2,450. Half a century later Creighton Chambers. Over the According to an indenture dated Griffith’s Valuation returned the Earl following days, accompanied by 1741, Smith’s Sligo estate was of Erne’s Sligo estate as consisting Chambers, he visited every house returned as consisting of Cloverhill, of 1,925 acres as follows: Breeogue and farm on his extensive property, Graigue, Knocknahur, Culleenamore, (424), Cloverhill (230), Carrowkeel personally inspecting the state of their Cartronponra (alias Beanfield), (210), Carrowmore (494), Graigue dwellings and the condition of their Culleencrin, Culleenamore and (282), Knocknahur South (136), and various holdings. Some days later the Scardenmore, and also included 40 Scardenmore (149). tenants assembled at Cloverhill for the cottages, two mills and two dove Foremost amongst the titled families annual presentation of prizes, during houses. of County Fermanagh since 1700 has which he announced an abatement Nicholas Ward married Meliora, the been the Creightons (alias Crichtons) in rents averaging from one shilling eldest daughter of David Creighton of Crom Castle who were created to one shilling and sixpence in the and a sister of the first Lord Erne of Earls Erne in 1789. In their heyday pound. In the course of his visit Crom Castle, Co, Fermanagh, by they owned circa 40,000 acres in the Earl paid a visit to Breeogue to whom he fathered a son, Bernard Cos Fermanagh, Donegal, Mayo and inspect the fine new residence which 49 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

Laurence Walsh had just completed at turn by Mathew (1805-1887), who of . Half a century later a cost of upwards of £1,000. by the mid century had a leasehold of George Dorran of Primrose Grange Between 1745 and 1890 Cloverhill 130 acres from the Earl of Erne. In the and Coney Island purchased the was the seat of the Chambers family, 1850s he built a substantial three-bay Ormsby interest in the property and who were both tenants of and two-storey residence on rising ground subsequently negotiated a renewal agents for the Earls of Erne. In 1845 overlooking Ballisodare Bay that cost of the lease from John, Earl of Erne. William Creighton Chambers secured in the region of £1,000. In September In 1741 Scardenmore was returned a renewal of the lease from John 1859 it was visited by the Earl of Erne as the property of Nicholas Ward of Crichton, which included the house, who was on an inspection tour of his Knockballymore, who had married garden and lands of Cloverhill for a Sligo estate. Meliora Creighton of Crom Castle. term of 61 years at an annual rent of Mathew Walsh was pre-deceased by A century later the immediate lessor £250. his three sons who died in the prime from the Erne estate was the Reverend In 1923 the house and lands passed of manhood between 1875 and 1879, George Mansfield of Kiltubrid, Co by sale to William John Hunter of leaving three married daughters. Ellen, Leitrim, who leased the lands and the neighbouring Carrowkeel, and half a the eldest, inherited the house and newly-built residence to a succession century later was re-sold to the brothers demesne lands and married Patrick of tenants before the entire property Ivan and Christopher Armstrong Nangle White, a Sligo-based chemist. was purchased in the mid 1920s by of Manorhamilton. The 28-roomed Following his death in 1923 the house Edward Frazer Browne of Sligo. mansion remained unoccupied and in and lands passed to a succession of -- 1988 the long-standing landmark was owners until it was acquired in 1962 The Earl of Erne’s large deposit demolished. by Jim Mc Loughlin, the present of documents in the Public Record In the late 18th century Mathew owner of what once formed part of the Office (PRONI) in Belfast contains Walsh (1733-1802), who was Erne estate. a significant Sligo archive relating to descended from the Walsh family Scardenmore originally formed part the Cloverhill estate, including leases of Carrickmines Castle, resided at of the O’Conor Sligo estate and in covering the period 1702-1861. The Primrose Grange and had a lease of 1633-’35 was mortgaged to Sir Roger archive also contains material relating large tracts of land in the adjoining Jones and later passed by purchase to to a number of local families in the foothills, including 86 acres in Benjamin Burton, the Dublin banker, Cloverhill area that in the 18th and 19th Breeogue from the Earls of Erne. In who farm-let it to William Smith of centuries formed part of the Earl of 1802 he was succeeded by his eldest Cloverhill. In 1723 the latter sublet Erne’s extensive estate. son, Laurence (1753-1842) and he in the to George Ormsby

Lost in translation A Tinker Child

By Kathleen Quinn By John Hannon Broken voices of the season Standing on the roadside Telling the history of our town In the fading evening, To the shadows of the trees Grimy, rose cheeked, childish Evidence of stone work Innocently sucking her thumb, Brooding through dreams Gazing in awesome wonder, For everything or for nothing At this dark stranger Everything begins In her carefree untroubled world Observing a small town Amid tents and porter One relaxes or dies Muddied to her eye balls. Throwing bread to the swans in the park I thought wouldn’t it be nice Or ghosts or us If she stayed locked in time They drained the pond Never to be touched, ever An everlasting wait. By the anguish of her wandering people.

50 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Why not Turn South or West! By Martin A Timoney

Over the years media attention to the Comprising the Baronies of Corran, (Cottlestown,Carrowntemple, archaeological and historical heritage , and Tirerrill, Toomour,Aghannagh, of Co Sligo has been seen as a means published in 2005 by the Stationery Monasterreddan, Killaraght). From of increasing our tourist numbers, Office, or on the National Monuments this period we can see the dwelling more so than for its own value. Service website, archaeology.ie. The places, ringforts, cashels and crannógs Curiously, with a few exceptions, Inventories of Tireragh, between (Rathmulcagh, Rathurlisk, Clogher, the locations mentioned are mainly Ballisodare and Ballina, and Carbury, Cashelóir, Lough Gara, Larkhill). northwards from Belladrihid, just from Ballisodare to the Bridge of Some ringforts are multivallate north of Ballisodare, and even that Bunduff on the Leitrim border, sadly (Bricklieve, Liscat) and some are is north of the Collooney Gap! remain unpublished though the conjoined (Kilturra, Rathhosey). The The Carrowmore tombs, Maeve on fieldwork has been done. Vikings paid our county a few visits, Knocknarea, Lissadell and Drumcliff We now believe that people were some for battle, others for trading for Yeats, high crosses and a round present on this island as early as (, Knoxspark). tower and Creeveykeel court tomb are 8,000 BC. Mesolithic people, our first The next major change began in certainly key sites for the county. settlers, hunted, fished and gathered the 12th century and lasted to the What is of deep concern is that so their food but their physical presence 16th century. Major monastic orders few locations south of Belladrihid, is not easy to detect. The Neolithic built abbeys and friaries (Ballymote, even Ballisodare itself, ever get period, from just before 4,000 BC to Ballindoon, Beanada, Cloonameehan, a mention at all. Tireragh, Lyney, about 2,200 BC, built portal tombs Court) and simpler churches Corran, Tirerrill and Coolavin (Tawnatruffaun, Carrickglass), (Killerry, Shancough, Toomour, baronies, all south of Belladrihid, court tombs (Tanrego, Moygara, Templevanny, Ballinaglough) make up five-sixths of the county. Yet Arnasbrack, Moytirra, Carricknagat) were in vogue. Castles mainly the sixth, Carbury, gets more attention and passage graves (Carrowkeel, belong to this period (Ballymote, than all the rest put together. Is this Heapstown, Rathdooney, Sheerevagh, , Moygara, Meemlough, surprising when the road towards Co Farrenmacfarrell). Wedge tombs came Cottlestown, Castlebaldwin, Rosslea, Donegal goes that way! at the end of the Neolithic and into the Castledargan); some ringforts, cashels From 50 years of involvement in Bronze Age (Kilfree, Gortakeeran, and crannógs continued in use. the archaeology of this county I am Culdaly, Moytirra). There are From the 17th century onwards for aware of more than 6,000 locations unusual megaliths too (Achonry, two centuries the gentry built houses with monuments across the county Knockatootaun). in wonderful demesnes (Coopershill, worth telling the tourist about. From The visible monuments of the Templehouse, Markree, Castledargan, A Tinker Child Inishcrone and to Bronze Age, 2,500 BC to about 600 Tanrego, Streamstown). While and Riverstown and down to Geevagh, BC, and the Iron Age, from 700 BC enjoying reading Twilight of the Gurteen and Bellaghy, these locations to 500 AD, are mounds, barrows and Ascendency by Mark Bence-Jones of archaeological or historical interest cairns. Carniara barrow was later an (1987) the reality of that twilight have the added benefit of being in O’Hara site. happening in Co Sligo becomes rather scenic locations. Walsh in Dedicated Recent research has moved the stark. In recent decades several houses to Sligo (2013) totals well over 6,000 hillforts back from the Iron Age into have gone out of the ownership of for all the county. In combination the Later Bronze Age (Carrowmably; long-standing families (Coolavin, these monuments reflect 10,000 years possibly one on Keash; Knocknashee Markree, Lissadell, Classiebawn, of settlement in the county, itself is one of the largest hillforts in the Longford, Cottlestown). naturally endowed with wonderful country). These two periods produced Some military forts belong to the geology, botany, flora and fauna. a great wealth of ornaments, tools 17th century (Emlaghfad). Despite I can only give a sample of what is and weapons, many on display in our what some would have us believe in the south and west of the county; National Museum of Ireland, a few in Catholics still used parts of the abbeys this is not an overall statement of Sligo Museum. and friaries and also simple churches Sligo’s past, just a flavour, period The arrival of Christianity in the were built. In the early decades of the after period. Details of monuments late 4th century AD led to the Early 19th century the Board of First Fruits can be read in Egan, Byrne and Ecclesiastical sites, some with endowed many churches and glebe Sleeman Archaeological Inventory of churches (west end of Corcorans houses (St Crumnathy’s cathedral, County Sligo, Volume I: South Sligo, Acres), some with cross slabs Rathbarron, Achonry, Dromard, 51 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

Kilglass, Tubbercurry) and from the And if that was not enough there of national importance outside the 1830s many more Catholic churches are thousands of decorated memorials modern limits of the county: Boyle were built (Riverstown, Ballymote, in graveyards and churches (, with its Cistercian Abbey and King Ballinafad). There are Napoleonic Dromard, Emlaghfad, , House and the widely-known 18th- towers at Rathlee and Carrowmably. Ballisodare, Collooney). The folklife 19th century tree-studded Rockingham Roads developed and with them museum at Riverstown takes us back Forest Park, Franciscan Creevelea at bridges (Union, Annaghmore, to the things our grandparents used, Dromahaire, Drumanone portal tomb Culfadda, , Belladrihid). and Sligo Museum has a small but near Boyle, Ardnaree Augustinian We live, work and pray in the significant range of items to fill out now in Ballina. architecture of the last hundred years. the story of the county. From there The recent coming together of some Railways through the Collooney Gap one might edge an interest back to the fifty parties interested in the tourist are of note. Large mills (Dromore West, Middle Ages, the Celts, the Bronze potential of the south of the county Ballymote) and vernacular buildings Age, the Neolithic and eventually is good news. Their name, South and were built (Ballymote Art Deco to the Mesolithic. It is a long way West Sligo Tourism, is the essence of cinema, Hall, Carrowmore NS to 10,000 years BP. For many those this article, and it is good to see such a near Knocknashee). Bank buildings ancient periods are way beyond the large Sligo grouping coming together are now being abandoned. Some comprehension, but what we can learn to make positive moves in the same battle sites are of note (Carricknagat, along the way is interesting. direction as this article is suggesting. Curlews). There are places associated These monuments sit on the My article was drafted a decade ago, with the famous (Higgins, Benson and natural tapestry of our county. The and at every time media space seemed O’Rorke in Collooney, MacFhirbisigh gaps through the Ox Mountains and to be opening up, a more important at Doonflin, Kilglass and Skreen Beg, Killerry (Talt, Easky, Ladies’ Brae, issue caught the media’s attention! O’Conor at Kilmactranny, O’Hara in Hungry Rock, Glen, Ballisodare, The release of the County Sligo Court Abbey, Corcoran in Claragh). Ballygawley, Slishwood) are Tourism Strategy 2018-2023 was after Holy wells (Atracta’s at Clogher, spectacular in themselves. The submission of the article. Kingston in Greenan, Dromard, Owenmore, Owenbeg, Unshin and Have South and West Sligo Tourism Toberfinane at Achonry) continued Moy drain the greater part of south sought information from the longest- in use from early times. Information Sligo – Easky River drains part of serving archaeological and historical plaques like those in Sligo town would west Sligo. Add to these the lakes grouping in the county, Sligo Field add to the enjoyment of the south and (Arrow, Gara, Templevanny, Leibe, Club?, the centre-county Ballymote west of the county. Templehouse, Cloonacleigha, Ioe, Heritage Group?, the Tirrerrill There are areas where there are Easky, Talt and Ballygawley) and group in the east of the county, or monuments from many periods. we have more reason for visiting the Ballina-based North Mayo West Inishcrone, despite what many want south and west Sligo. There are some Sligo Heritage Group, which includes to write, has its obvious 17th century designated signposted walks, the some of the redundant Mac Firbisigh castle and Valentine’s church, but Miners Way Historical trail, the Ox group and the North Mayo Historical less obvious passage tombs and Mountains walk and the short Caves and Archaeological Society? Were massive ringforts. , Carrigans, of Keash walk are just three. state agencies, National Monuments Moytirra, Highwood, Carrickard, Most monuments are on the Service, National Inventory of Carrickglass and Emlaghfad all have private property of farmers, so Architectural Heritage, our Heritage monuments of many periods. Wards’ do ask for permission for access. Office, contacted? The 50-parties Foxes Den is a good stopping point Some monuments are state-owned booklet is beautiful but tourists for The Caves of Keash, and that is National Monuments, others are could have benefited from additional with an ‘a’. in the ownership or care of Sligo mention of our archaeological Along the 14km N4 stretch County Council. As always, you and historical heritage. Curiously between Castlebaldwin and Doorly, should respect the property as well as Ballymote Heritage Group’s Annual south of Collooney, some 46 sites taking care of yourself – the surface August Weekend does not get a were excavated. Pre-development of our monuments, and particularly mention, though even more curious archaeology along that linear our graveyards, are, by their nature, is the mention of Bundoran’s development matches that seen uneven, so you are advised, if needs Seasessions event. elsewhere across the country – be! There are many walking routes Basic information on Sligo’s heritage wonderful evidence of our country’s being developed across the county. should be the stock in trade of all who past, often in total contrast to what Not being parochial, since the county have personal contact with visitors turns up in small developments. of Sligo was not defined until 1585 to our county, even with our own It helps fill out the picture of the at a point well through the 10,000 people, Gardaí, council employees, upstanding monuments of our county. years of our settlement, we note a few traffic wardens, administrators,

52 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 librarians, shopkeepers, landlords and the remains are within three miles of Why then the concentration on so landladies, local media, so that they the town, and the scenery is far more few sites, north of Ballisodare, not can provide some basic information beautiful than that of the Mobihan. mentioning those to the south or west that will encourage visitors to spend . .’ This Auray quote makes a major of it? Even Ballisodare itself gets little more time in our county, stay for extra statement about Carrowmore, but attention. days, spend more on food and personal it applies to the county as a whole. Is there an agenda in the tourist items and bring good memories The immediate past-president of business in Sligo? The Boyle-Sligo- home. These frontline people do not Sligo Field Club, Wendy Lyons, a Bundoran desire line says, ‘Get the need know details, only what sites conservation architect, puts it very tourists up to Donegal as fast as you there are and where they are, access, neatly in her presidential address can – there is nothing in Sligo, not in where information can be found; the in Sligo Field Club Journal, Vol. 3 any part of it, to inform, entertain or Tourist Office could do much more to (2017), iv. ‘I believe that the Sligo detain the tourist!’ Is this surprising promote all of our county. Contrast County looks like it does because of when this is on the road towards Co. the amount of publications on Galway our forefathers and their way of life. Donegal! that can be bought it its bookshops. We are so used to seeing it that the Tireragh, Lyney, Corran, Tirerrill, The community needs to get behind value and variety of Sligo’s landscape and Coolavin, all south of Belladrihid, those of us who want to preserve and and monuments are overlooked … make up five-sixths of our county. Yet use, but not abuse, our heritage. Do We should be careful not to change Carbury, only one-sixth of the area, not forget to look behind you: ‘I never the landscape so that it loses its gets the attention. Attention should be saw a site that looked better looking uniqueness that makes it different all-county – what I have listed above back’ is a truism. The county has from other regions.’ is only the tip of the iceberg. benefitted from Yeats – Sligo songs Neither the tourist operators nor the Is it any wonder why there is such from our Kilmacteige singer Colm tourist are ever told of these places, a loss to the tourist business in Sligo? O’Donnell and film coverage from but they are clearly shown on the It is time we all turned south and west John Michael McDonagh would bring OS Discovery series maps, costing from Belladrihid, and recognise what more to our county. about €30 for the sheets that cover we have in five-sixths of our county! James Fergusson, architect the county, and many are described in Our problem may be that we are too and antiquarian, wrote in 1872: archaeology and history publications wrapped up in our little groupings – ‘Carrowmore is more easily accessible relating to the county, publications we are not getting through to those than Carnac [in Britany]. The inns at which can be bought in Sligo or read running the county. Sligo are better than those at Auray, in Sligo Library. Teeling St, Ballymote Submitted by Donal Gallagher

53 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Sligo’s avenger of President Lincoln

By John C McTernan

The Dohertys were prominent High St merchant and postmaster. lumber industry. In 1828 he married Sligo merchants throughout the 19th Doherty was closely associated with Mary Toomey, a lady of Irish birth, century. Henry Doherty (1777-1862), the trade and commerce of Sligo for by whom he had a family of six, the founding father, whose ancestors over half a century, during which he four boys and two girls. Edward are believed to have originated in was widely known for his honesty and Paul Doherty, the second youngest, Donegal, settled in Sligo, and between upright principles, for ‘true probity was educated in Montreal, where he 1814 and 1830 operated a thriving and thorough independence’. On his studied law. In 1861 he gave up his hardware and ironmongery business death in 1862, aged 85 years, the large studies and crossed into the United on High Street. concourse that escorted his remains to States. On the outbreak of the Civil In 1829 he leased a plot of ground Sligo cemetery was ‘a public tribute War he joined the 71st New York in Castle St from the Temple (later to his worth and excellence’. Regiment and fought at the battle of Palmerston) estate where he built The second Doherty house, adjacent Bull Run. In 1863 he was mustered as two three-storey houses and to one of to the retail outlet, was described as 1st Lieutenant in what became known which he transferred his High St retail ‘spacious’ and ready for letting in as the 16th New York Cavalry, and was business a year later. To coincide with 1830. It was subsequently operated as highly commended for his bravery in the move he published the following a guest house or ‘lodging house’ by the a number of subsequent engagements. advertisement in the Sligo Journal: Dohertys and was very popular with Henry Doherty informs his the judges and barristers attending On Good Friday, 14 April numerous friends and the public that the Spring and Autumn Assizes at 1865, the day President Lincoln he has removed his Establishment the nearby courthouse. It was also was assassinated by John Wilkes from High Street, where he has carried the preferred residence for candidates Booth while attending an evening on business for the last fifteen years, contesting local parliamentary entertainment at Ford’s Theatre in to one of his new houses in Castle elections in the Liberal interest, Washington DC, Capt Doherty was St., one much more extensive and including Charles Towneley, John on garrison duty in that city. As Booth commodious than that lately occupied Ball and Richard Swift. Its upstairs and his accomplice made good their by him, where he has ready for windows were frequently used by the escape and headed south for Virginia inspection a splendid assortment of aspiring parliamentarians to address they were pursued by a military Goods selected by him and purchased their supporters assembled in the control under the command of Capt for ready money at the principal street below. Doherty, who eventually succeeded in Manufacturing Houses in England. He In 1855 a controversy arose when tracking down the fugitives to a farm is, therefore, enabled and determined the then High Sheriff, Sir Malby out-house where they lay in hiding. A to dispose of his present stock of Crofton of Longford House, Beltra, cordon was thrown around the barn Jewellery, Plated Goods, Hardware, decided to move the Assize judges and when Booth refused to surrender, Stationery and Saddlery at his new from Dohertys to an alternate the building was set on fire. Again Establishment at 5 Castle Street on as establishment, a decision that was refusing to throw down his arms, the moderate terms as any House in the doubtless prompted by the fact that officers, led by Doherty, advanced, Kingdom can possibly do. the proprietor differed in both religion and sighting the fugitive a shot rang Henry Doherty was twice married; and politics from the Sheriff. It later out. Booth fell down fatally wounded firstly to Elizabeth Crawford Gribben, transpired that Crofton had no say in by a bullet through the neck. Sergeant by whom he had one son, Joseph, the matter and the judges were happy Corbett, one of the officers, initially who emigrated to Canada, and two to remain in Doherty’s comfortable claimed the honour, but subsequent daughters, Catherine Teresa and Mary and conveniently located lodgings. investigations revealed that the fatal Anne Elizabeth. In 1829 he married Joseph Doherty, eldest son of Henry shot came from Doherty’s pistol. secondly Matilda Smith of Cairnsfoot Doherty and his first wife, Elizabeth Edward Doherty subsequently and by her had two sons, James and Gribben, emigrated to Canada in received a commission in the 5th US Thomas, and one daughter, Matilda, the 1820s and settled in Quebec, Cavalry and later advanced to the rank who married Martin W Phillips, a where he found employment in the of 1st Lieutenant, although he was

54 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 popularly referred to by his comrades brought to the service of the Borough and Elizabeth C Gribbon, operated a as ‘Major Doherty’ in recognition of by advocating well-considered successful haberdasher and millinery the part he played in the capture of measures for its advancement in trade business at 36 Castle Street in the mid Lincoln’s assassin. His subsequent and commerce. A strong advocate of to late 19th century. In 1854 they found military career was undistinguished Liberal principles, he seconded the mention in both the local and national and he was mustered out of the army nomination of John Ball as a suitable press when exhibiting a collection of in 1870. A year later he married candidate to contest the Borough ornaments made of horse hair at the Catherine Gautier by whom he had a election in 1848. Dublin Industrial Exhibition. The son, Charles, who died in 1939. In 1867 James Doherty married ornaments, the work of local girls On his death in 1897, Capt Doherty Catherine or Kate O’Connor of operating a type of cottage industry in was accorded a full military funeral at Edenbawn, a niece of Peter O’Connor rural parts of the county, consisted of Arlington National Cemetery where of Cairnsfoot House and by whom brooches, bracelets, necklaces and the his headstone carries the following he had one daughter, Theresa Maria. like, and were highly commended by inscription: His obituary read: ‘Full of anecdote the organisers of the exhibition. and humour, his society was much Catherine Doherty died in Edward P. Doherty courted by those who favoured the November 1886 and her sister, Mary Capt. 16th N.Y. Cavalry company of an intelligent and witty Elizabeth, the last of the family 1st Lieut. 5th U.S. Cavalry personality.’ He died after a protracted in Sligo, in November 1901, aged 1840-1847 illness in May 1880, aged 55. His wife 97 years. She left an estate valued Commanded detachment of 16th N.Y. Kate, had predeceased him in 1869 at at £3,000, half of which was in Cavalry the youthful age of 25. Government stocks. In her will she Which captured President Lincoln’s In his will dated August 1879, bequeathed £200 to her sister-in-law, assassin James Doherty bequeathed his real Kate Doherty of Montreal, the widow April 20th 1865 and personal estate, together with of Michael Doherty, the eldest son stock in trade, to Martin W Phillips of her emigrant brother, Joseph; also and Roger McCarrick of Kilglass, £100 to the only son (unnamed) of his executors, upon trust for his only Major Edward Doherty, second eldest child, Theresa Maria, then aged 12. In son of the afore-mentioned Joseph the circumstances he authorised the and resident in the USA. She left £50 trustees either to continue operating for funeral expenses and £30 for an the long-established retail business ornamental railing around the family or else offer it for sale as a going grave. concern, whichever they considered Two attractive and handsomely the most advantageous. A month after inscribed headstones in Sligo his death, his trustees sought and cemetery, standing in close proximity obtained a renewal of the lease on the to each other to the right of the main Castle Street property from Anthony entrance, denote the final resting Evelyn Ashley of Classiebawn Castle, places of the various members of the Mullaghmore, for a term of sixty-one Doherty family. One is inscribed to Lt Edward P Doherty years at annual rent of £40. In August 1880 the former Doherty Henry Doherty of Castle Street property, consisting of two dwelling was succeeded in business by James houses, office and yard, which adjoined (1825-1880), eldest son by his second Messrs WA&FA Woods’ retail outlet marriage. In December 1875, he was to the east, were offered for sale by the unanimous choice for mayor for public auction and purchased for £750 the ensuing year. On his election the by Thomas J Phillips of Belfast. Sligo Chronicle, a Tory organ, referred Thomas Doherty (1830-1863), a to him as ‘the son of a worthy father’ younger brother of James, who was and a gentleman in every way qualified employed by HM Customs, worked for the highest office. In addition to in London for a short period prior to being a Borough Magistrate he was a fatal illness which culminated in his a member of the Grand Jury and a death on Castle Street in 1863, aged Town and Harbour Commissioner. 33. Throughout his public life he was The sisters Mary Anne Elizabeth and noted for the ability he frequently Catherine Teresa, daughters of Henry Headstone in Sligo cemetery

55 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 the memory of Henry Doherty, his 2nd Edward Paul Doherty, then in Capt. Edward P. Doherty wife, Matilda; their children, James, New York, as ‘The Brave Avenger The Brave Avenger of Thomas and Matilda and James’s of President Lincoln’. The full President Lincoln wife, the youthful Catherine or Kate inscription reads: and their youngest daughter O’Connor. To the beloved memory of Catherine Teresa and to the Over many years mystery has Eliz. Crawford Gribbin, first love and memory of their eldest daughter surrounded an inscription on the wife of Henry Doherty, Esq. Mary Anne Eliz. Doherty second headstone which was erected and their son Joseph who in fond remembrance in 1887 by the said Mary Elizabeth and his three sons has erected this monument Doherty, which identifies her nephew, Michael, Col. Henry Doherty and in the year 1887 Gore-Boot’s engagement gift This document was presented to Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth by the parishioners in 1907 on the occasion of his engagement to be married. It was up for sale by Sotheby’s auction house, but later withdrawn and presented to John Perry on behalf of the people of Ballymote. Keenan Johnson’s grandfather is one of the signatories. It currently hangs in Lissadell House until a suitable home can be found for it in Ballymote.

56 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Lime-making in kilns – Yesterday’s cottage industry

By Garreth Byrne

At the end of the 18th century there themselves to noxious fumes and prevailed the fuel was turf. Furze bush were about 23,000 domestic lime accidental burns to the body. Digging was often used in hilly areas where kilns scattered around Co Cork. Today out the ashes and lime powder after the material was abundant. the remains of a few dozen or so kilns, the internal temperature of the kiln The kiln was often built against some of them covered from view had cooled down was grimy work that a rocky slope or mound so that a by overgrown ivy, brambles, moss, could irritate skin and eyes, since lime ramp could be constructed, enabling wild flowers and hardy sycamore is alkaline. workers to transport materials for and ash trees, might be found by Limekilns derive from ancient placing in cupola-shaped layers from tourists and amateur archaeologists. times in other parts of the world. the open top. An opening at the bottom, The common use of kilns on farms In Iraq, the oldest recorded lime called the ‘eye’, was for drawing air to manufacture quicklime and slaked kiln has been dated to about 2,450 during the three-day burning process, lime for agricultural and building BC. Archaeologists think that lime and then for extracting the white uses was discontinued around Ireland burning in Ireland began some time powdery quicklime. This had uses in generally during the 1930s and 1940s. in the pre-Christian era. Lime use the burial of dead animals (and people Commercially mass-produced lime for soil improvement took place in in times of contagious disease) as from modern factories became easily the 12th century, possibly a Norman the caustic property rapidly decayed available, at affordable prices. influence, and became widespread and disinfected tissue. Farmers also The old lime kilns could be time in the 18th century from English dipped seed potatoes in lime to deter consuming and dangerous. Typically influence. insects and neutralise soils. However the kiln took a day to load, three days A lime kiln is an egg-shaped slaked lime was more often needed for to fire, two days to cool and a day to chamber lined with brick inside and agricultural and domestic uses. Dry unload, so a one-week turnaround often rough stones on the outside. slaking is when quicklime is slaked was normal. During the burning Lump stones of a certain size were with just enough water to hydrate the stage the lime kiln had to be watched loaded in layers from the top, with quicklime, but remain as a powder. around the clock to ensure that the fire layers of wood or coal between each Many uses of lime didn’t falter for lack of fuel. In cold layer. Culm or anthracite was also Soils in most parts of Ireland were weather the watchers were tempted to used in areas like Castlecomer in acidic, so the alkaline lime altered the huddle near the bottom vent, exposing County Kilkenny. Where bogland pH value, enabling a greater variety of crops and vegetables to be grown. Lime makes other soil nutrients readily available in soil solution to crop roots and grass. Farm productivity from the 18th century may have increased up to fourfold from liming. The introduction of crop rotation also played a vital part. Compost heaps in organic gardens improve with layers of lime, which accelerate decomposition. Various other uses were and still are found for lime: • As a mortar in building • For whitewashing house walls as a disinfectant and decoration • To prevent foot rot in livestock • For removing hair from hides in leather making An outline of a lime kiln

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• To control bacteria in cess pits revolution lime kilns were constructed European Union’s INTERREG Cross- • To deter slugs in vegetable at sea ports and beside canals, so Border Programme. This industrial gardens that everything could be transported heritage project cost about €233,000 • To disinfect water wells well. Production at an industrial level and restoration was largely done by was done by building several kilns local craftsmen. During the early 20th century in in a row so that teams of workers Visitors to the holy well at Killargue Ireland many co-operative creamery could work around the clock. Some in Co Leitrim can view the remains buildings were erected in villages magnificent examples have been of a limekiln beside a footpath. In and towns around the country. The restored and opened to the public as fields around Sligo, Leitrim and Department of Agriculture imposed a tourist attractions. Roscommon are found similar strict policy of food safety and sent its In Lough Rynne estate in Leitrim the remains. Our grandparents and their inspectors everywhere, so the insides recently renovated Farnaught Lime ancestors relied on lime making as a of creameries were whitewashed Kiln was unveiled not long ago. The labour- intensive cottage industry until regularly. This ensured that insects kiln, originally built in the middle of mass production in modern factories did not hibernate in the walls. the 19th century, was eventually shut took over in the 1930s and 1940s, and In China and other countries mature down in the 1950s after about a century it’s a rich part of our heritage. trees in urban areas are whitewashed of use – one of the last of its kind to -- in late autumn to enhance visibility but function in Ireland. The restored kiln, Garreth Byrne is a retired teacher and also to deter insects from hibernating with displayed information and nearby lives in Dromahair in and damaging the bark. parking space, was part of the Border In England during the industrial Uplands Project, part-financed by the The deepest of links By John Coleman

On a recent holiday in Scotland I was much older connections between the short journey to the isle of Mull. The stuck by the similarity of many of the two countries – the legend of Fionn is ancient site of Irish monasticism on words in Scots Gaelic signage to Irish, as important to the Scots as to the Irish. the isle of Iona is just a short further ‘Failte’ being the most commonly I also noticed similar place names and ferry journey from Mull. Sadly on found. We are all conscious of the was delighted when I saw the signs the day I was on Mull a storm came connection between the Ulster in these photos. Corran is a ferry port up and the small ferries from Mull to Presbyterian population and Scotland, near Fort William on the Scottish Iona were not able to sail. but are in danger of forgetting the mainland which serves ferries on the

58 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Irish Mythology and its relevance today

By Theresa Kelly

The Mythological Cycle goes back of the underworld inhabited by the replaced his lost limb, so when Bres to pre-Christian times when people dead … Celtic myth is thus interpreted died he was again hailed as King. valued the land. To them it was Mother as a variant of the universal solar Nuadu arranged a feast at Tara Earth and she provided for them; from myth, embodying the conception of to celebrate becoming king again. her they gained sustenance. ‘Mother the eternal conflict between day and During the feast, Lug, grandson of Earth is the one who has given birth to night.’3 Danu was goddess of fertility Balor, turned up at the gates asking us and on whom we live and on whose and often referred to as Brigit. Anu to be admitted to speak to Nuadu. body we find food.’ 1 These people (Áine), daughter of Manannán, was Through the account of Lug at created myth around the landscape Earth Goddess, and the Paps of Anu Tara we learn about their skills and while figuring out different ways to near Killarney was called after her. craftsmanship. ‘The itemisation gives deal with life. The Book of Invasions recorded an inventory of the Tuatha Dé’s useful In the Mythological cycle, ‘the the stories, and this is our historical arts and, curiously there is no implied central story is a battle between two record. They are the closest to the hierarchy with poetry and war placed supernatural groups. This theme is authentic oral mythological tradition. in the middle’.5 When asked what found in other Indo-European sources One of the best known stories is Cath skills he possesses, Lug lists off many, such as the conflict between the Maighe Tuireadh. The first battle of such as carpenter, harpist and poet, and Devas and Asuras in Verdic literature, Moytira took place in the Cong area of each time he is told that they already between Zeus’ family and the Titans Mayo, where the Tuatha Dé Dannan have someone with these skills. In in Greek’ 2. These battles took place defeated the Fir Bolg. At the time of the end Lug asks if they have anyone around Samhain, that time at the start the battle, Nuadu was King of the who has all these skills combined and of darkness when our world and the Tuatha Dé Dannan: ‘The god Nuadu, because they don’t, they allow him to Otherworld were intertwined. There called Nodens on the Continent, enter. Lug goes on to fight with the was a clash between divine races and found as Nuadu Necht, is worshipped Tuatha against the Fomorians in the demonic races. as the fisher-god Nodens in fourth second battle of Maighe Tuireadh, In their observation of the sun, century Britain.’ 4 Nuadu loses his arm which was located in Co Sligo. It’s moon and time, these people created during the battle and he has to stand ‘a saga of three kings – Nuadu, Bres monuments like Newgrange, down as king. He is replaced by Bres, and Lug – each displaying different Carrowmore and many more, where a poor leader who reigned for some aspects of the nature of sovereignty the sun enters at the end of darkness, time. Nuadu had a silver arm which and their effects upon the people ruled late December, to show the start of new life, fertilisation and growth. These monuments are our historical evidence of their ability to work together to get to know the seasons and time. These nomadic people practiced polytheism, they had many Gods. Among them were Dagda, who was their Sun god, god of fertility, god of Newgrange, Aongus, his son, Nuada (of the silver arm) was god of war, Manannán was god of the sea as was his son Ler, Lug(h) was also sun god as was Brigit, daughter of Dagda. Balor represents the powers of darkness, death and evil. His equivalent in the Gauls was Pluto: ‘Most notable deity of the Gauls was Dis, or Pluto, the god Benbulben, Co Sligo (Image from Wikipedia)

59 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

‘Their preoccupation with death and to this day. Our mythological sites eternity are unmistakably attested to have a wide landscape where people by the stupendous monuments they could see for miles. For the people left behind them to honour or appease approaching, they could see that a lot their dead.’ 9 of people worked together, in their Over the years the dolmens became community, to build these cairns and known as ‘Gráinne’s bed’ to humanise other structures. the statues. Michael Roberts in his Did these characters really exist? book The Cailleach of Sligo tells a It is my understanding that they story about Fionn following Diarmuid Tobernalt, Co Sligo from the did exist and as a practising Laurence Collection in the National and Gráinne to Benbulben. The black Catholic who believes in God I Museum of Ireland 11. boar kills Diarmuid, and Fionn has understand their need to believe the power to revive him with water in a higher power. As Wilkinson by these kings.’ 6 At the end of the but he lets him die. When standing at writes, ‘myths arise from an battle, the Tuatha learned to farm the Carrowmore you can see the ‘snout intimate relationship between land, having gained the knowledge of the Black pig’ on Benbulben as it people and the natural and spirit and know-how from the Formorians. slopes towards the sea. world’ 12. Today the mythological The landscape around these Knocknarea stands proudly reaching sites still in our local landscapes areas lent itself to their stories. The to the sky with Queen Maeve’s grave reinforce the myth, and indeed the scribes recorded these stories and on top of it. The cairn where she is myths reinforce and preserve the embellished them: ‘There were a buried was built over 5,500 years sites. certain amount of historical events ago, meaning it was there long before available to them to create this Queen Maeve of the Táin. Perhaps References history, but it was not enough to fill they interred her ashes there, as was 1 Joseph Campbell, The Power of Myth, p.142 the gaps, so they used the literature the practice at that time. ‘ of 2 Dr Dáithí Ó hÓgáin, Myth, Legend & Romance. 7 An encyclopaedia of The Irish Folk Tradition and turned it into history.’ Locally Connacht was regarded as sister to, (Prentice Hall Press 1991), p.312 around the Sligo area there are many or ‘the same as’ Queen Medb of Tara 3 T.W.Rolleston, Myth & Legends of the Celtic sites dating back to the mythological whom the High King of All Ireland Race (CRW Publishing Limited 2004) , p.75 4 Muireann Ní Bhrolcháin, An Introduction to age. In Carrowmore, we find stone had to marry before he could assume Early Irish Literature (Four Court Press 2009) , P.27 structures and passage graves. About the title’ 10. 5 James McKillop, Myth & Legends of the Celts 15% of our ancient sites are in this There are lots of Holy Wells all (Penguin Books 2005), p.142 north-west region. Archaeologists, 6 Muireann Ní Bhrolcháin, An Introduction to around Ireland where people still go Early (Dublin 2009), P.32 with the help of carbon dating, have to pray and be cured with their waters, 7 Muireann Ní Bhrolcháin, An Introduction to dated Carrowmore to 5,000 BC. ‘New this water coming from Mother Earth. Early (Dublin 2009), P.17 customs, such as the erection of stone 8 Nathaniel Harris, Heritage of Ireland A History Tobarnalt Holy Well at Co of Ireland & its people (Octopus Publishing 1998) circles, suggest that this was a period Sligo is visited regularly. To this day, , p.19 of significant cultural development.’ people go on pilgrimage to it, praying 9 Nathaniel Harris, Heritage of Ireland (Octopus 8 These people were marking their and lighting candles. Some leave Publishing 1998), p.19 10 Michael Dames, Mythic Ireland (Thames and territory. They carried stones up to personal articles like rosary beads in Hudson 1996), p.239 the top of Knocknarae and other the hope of receiving some favour 11https://pilgrimagemedievalireland.files. mountaintops. They teamed up and from our Christian God. wordpress.com/2015/03/l_cab_06848-tobernalt.jpg (March 2015) worked together, using their skills On 31 June, known as Garland 12 Philip Wilkinson, Myths &Legend an illustrated and learning to help each other, all Sunday and Lughnasa, Mass is guide to their origins and meanings (London 2009) combining to create a monument that celebrated at dawn at Tobarnalt, withstood wars, weather, and time. pilgrimage and ritual reinforcing myth Ballagh Town By John Hannon

If you ever go to Ballagh Town, Pat Finn is there in his corner chair, But mournful to say, look for me in Spells. pouring forth on his London time. he is gone the way, For it’s there, you’ll find the craic And there he’ll play those graceful of those great flute players in the sky. and ceol airs And Georgie too has gone that way. with Goergie in his prime. As he did in Clones Town. How sad for Ballagh Town. 60 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 The picnic volcano and tales of old By Bernie Gilbride

The word ‘volcano’ immediately for the week ahead from smaller that Bernie, a firm favourite with the conjures up visions of lava, members. What mother could deny children, would begin his fairy tales. destruction, fleeing people, death and their request? The girls helped with Using his hands and fingers to reflect desolation. We think of Pompeii, the the edibles, while the boys got out the on the walls, images of rabbits, hares, Italian city that vanished in a matter volcano, rinsed it, filled it with fresh swans, evil witches, fairies and even of hours almost two millennia ago, water and collected newspapers for elves appeared as his stories unfolded. by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 fuel. Togs, towels, balls, buckets and Little faces gazed with rapturous AD, and that has been and is still spades were hurriedly assembled and delight at the projections. Many a cry being excavated, to reveal a wealth put in the boot of the car alongside of anguish could be heard: ‘Save him, of historical data, particularly relating rugs, cardigans and raincoats, just in save him – oh no-no-no – look behind, to the Roman Empire , its riches, and case. look behind,’ and cheers when the culture. Our destination was Mullaghmore, story confirmed the triumph of good Listening to the radio one morning or more precisely, Bunduff, where over evil and the favourite baby rabbit on hearing the word volcano, I dreaded fields belonging to the family farm outwitted the crafty fox. the news that might follow but this ran down to the sea. Our Grannie’s As they grew older, fairy tales time the reporter was referring, not to sister lived there with her family, and became ghost stories with strange an erupting mountain, but to a kettle to the children she became known as happenings, all guaranteed true, about called a ‘volcano’. Apparently this ‘Granny by the sea.’ Having parked people and places in the area between item is now regarded as an antique, on her street, at the side of the old Bunduff and Sligo. We especially but 60 or so years ago it was a regular farm house, our gear would be loved the telling of the story about accessory which we used to boil water quickly transported by very willing the white horse who stood neighing on picnic outings. hands, across fields and down steep near a field gate, refusing to move The kettle was designed so that water sand dunes, and onto the lovely sandy and he bringing a doctor to a patient, was contained in a light aluminium beach. At that time we had the beach until a priest was sent for, and as he casing which encircled a hollow core. to ourselves with steep cliffs to our read prayers, the devil was seen as The volcano would be set on its base right and miles of sandy safe beach a burning twig hissing out over the in a sheltered nook, and newspapers, to our left. There followed hours of Atlantic waves, out of sight. That sent the only fuel necessary, were pushed paddling, swimming, building sand shivers down spines, as they thought into the hollow and set alight. Given a castles, playing ball and exploring about the journey home. On many a suitable draught the fire would ignite rocks under the cliffs, with their pools night, all would huddle together on and the water would boil rapidly. of sea water full of tiny shells seaweed the back seat of the car, unwilling Unfortunately, on some occasions, and lots of interesting little sea things, to show fear, but apprehensive until if conditions were not ideal, papers until it was time for our picnic. Back home. There were no arguments about refused to ignite, or the draught was up the dunes to a grassy nook and with going to bed on those nights; all were too strong and they burned out too Dad in charge the volcano was lit and anxious for its security. quickly. Procedures then had to be ravenous children made short work of All is now past, the children repeated all over again – a messy, all edibles, washed down by copious scattered, the old folk gone. The time-consuming task. If the fire didn’t mugs of tea or milk. wide blackened hearth, where once a light properly the picnic would be over Later, as the sun began to sink in blazing turf fire welcomed all visitors, before the volcano boiled, as small the western sky, it was time to gather is no more. In its place a beautiful people, having little patience when our bits and pieces and head for the marble surround, elegant, compact hungry, would settle for cold rations. car. First, there would be a visit to and labour saving, yet somehow In later years thermos flasks were ‘Granny by the sea’, into whose lacking the magic of the open hearth brought into use to provide hot drinks, kitchen the little ones needed no with its dancing flames casting golden and the volcano was relegated to the coaxing. They loved to linger there. light around the old kitchen, giving garage shelf where it has remained As darkness descended, the big turf on a sense of warmth and welcome, ever since, decommissioned but not the wide open hearth cast its golden continuity and security, as it had done forgotten. glow, lighting the old kitchen and for generations. In years gone by, every summer making the dresser delph glisten. The The volcano stands on its shelf in Sunday morning brought cries of Tilley lap would then be carefully lit, the garage, but, if needed, I am sure ‘Mum, please can we have a picnic its glow slowly strengthening until, it would still boil water even after all today’, accompanied by offers of help with a hiss of full power, it would these years. and guarantees of good behaviour illuminate the kitchen. It was then 61 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Snapshots of the past from Census information Snapshots of the past from Census information SubmittedSubmitted by Padraig Doddy by Padraig Doddy

Census of Keenaghan, 31 March 1901 Name Profession/relationship Age William Elliott Mill operator, born Scotland, Presbyterian 65 Brigid Wife, RC, born Co. Mayo 53 Maggie Daughter, dressmaker, Presbyterian 14 Elizabeth Daughter, scholar, Presbyterian 13 Residence Owner: Thomas McDonagh, Spurtown

Census of Keenaghan, 2 April 1911 Name Profession/relationship Age William John Johnson Mill Manager, born Co. Kildare, Church of 55 Ireland Martha Wife, Church of Ireland, born Co. Donegal 46 Thomas Son, PO assistant, born Co. Sligo 24 Anne Jane Daughter, born Co. Donegal 22 George Son, born Co. Sligo 17 Luke Son, born Co. Sligo 14 Henry David Son, born Co. Sligo 13 Rebecca J. Daughter, born Co. Sligo 8 John Robert Son, Co. Sligo 6 Peville C. Son, Co. Sligo 3 27 years married, 13 children born and living House Owner: Robert Gorman

Michael Egan, Butcher. House owner Thomas McDonagh, Spurtown.

Census of Ardconnell in the 1800s Tenant Landowner Roger McGettrick Edward Pollock Brian Cohen Hannah Wynne LackyDoddy Hannah Wynne LackyDoddy Edward Pollock Ann Redican Edward Pollock Brian Doddy Hannah Wynne Francis Doddy Hannah Wynne Francis Doddy Edward Pollock John Doddy Hannah Wynne John Doddy Edward Pollock Patrick Doddy Edward Pollock Farrell Boyle Hannah Wynne

Farrell Boyle was a Process Server. His daughter was married to Tom Carroll. Ardconnell 1873: Francis Doddy transferred land to his son Patrick, 1873 Patrick Doddy transferred land to James Flanagan, 1884 Patrick Doddy transferred land to Roger McDermott, Bunninadden 1884

62 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Dennisons of Drumcliff, Co Sligo: Adopted genealogical kin

By Kate Denison Bell

1922 burning of the Four Courts’ called ‘Gortnagrogery’ in Killasnet public records office during Ireland’s Civil Parish (Lurganboy registration) civil war (Church of Ireland records in the Griffith’s. were lost). However, in the absence of By the time of the Griffith’s Valu- such vital records, census substitute ation c. 1850, farmer Duncan Den- sources such as the Hearth Money nison apparently had moved on to Rolls 1663-1665 (taxes on fireplaces), Kilsellagh, Sligo, on the other side of Tithe Applotment Books 1823-1837 Cope’s Mountain of the Dartry range, Dennison grave, Drumcliff (a tax based on land holding payable perhaps less mountainous terrain and A couple of years ago while showing to the Established Church, payable by greener pastures. The ‘Kinsellagh’ en- visiting friends around Drumcliff’s all religions) and the c. 1850 Griffith’s graved on Duncan Dennison’s head- immaculately-kept St. ’s Valuation can sometimes provide stone appears to be a spelling variant cemetery on the Yeats circuit, I clues to early conundrums. Existing (the Irish being notorious for multiple happened across a pair of graves Roman Catholic Church record images spellings of place names). sharing a stark lichen-spotted of baptisms and marriages can be At this point in my research and af- headstone, part of the plot border, accessed through the National Library ter I looked at the family, I contacted simply engraved with ‘Dennison’ and of Ireland. Other fonts of information experienced Dennison family re- townland ‘Kinsellagh’. This discovery can be found in landed estate records, searcher, Barry Bradfield, a Dennison captured my imagination because will abstracts and military records. th himself (mother from Leitrim) who my Ulster-Scots American maiden As a tremendous 20 century lives in Co Cork, to check my work. name is ‘Denison’ (also spelled as resource, the digitised 1901 and In addition to my Griffith’s findings, Dennison, Denniston, etc) and I’ve 1911 censuses are freely available Barry also located other plots in - been searching for these particular through the National Archives nagorogery, Killasnet, and Drumkil- ‘roots’ for years. website, and also through Ask About sellagh, Drumcliff, held by Duncan, Although I didn’t believe I was Ireland. For those who prefer to and two in conjunction with Thomas related to these Drumcliff Dennisons, handle three-dimensional books and ‘Denison’, which comprised a total of I was intrigued by this resting place documents, an actual visit to the 67 acres. in front of the church underneath a Dublin archives might be in order. shady sycamore tree and decided Local history collections at libraries Marriage and children of Duncan to ‘adopt’ it. My aim was to attempt can be enlightening and enjoyable. Dennison to find out who these people were Please refer to various online links Duncan Dennison of Calry married because we Dennisons are few and listed below in my references, giving Catherine (unknown surname) of far between and should stick together. credit where credit is due. After all, Kilsellagh at St. John’s (Church of As an amateur historian of my own St. Columba’s (Colmcille), Drumcliff Ireland) in Sligo 25 August 1816, one clan, I am also using this quest as a was the site of the famous copyright of Sligo’s earliest existing recorded ‘case study’ in doing family research ‘Battle of the Book’. marriages for Sligo Dennisons, to inspire others to do same. according to Barry. No parents Preliminary findings are listed but witnesses were John With just a bit of online research, Sources Dennison and William Campbell. I have determined that one of the To start, the National Library of Duncan had the following children, Drumcliff graves may be of Duncan Ireland offers excellent genealogy according to information gleaned from Dennison, a farmer originally of tips. It’s never been easier to conduct the free website, FamilySearch, run by nearby Leitrim, and I assume his one’s family investigations, thanks to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter wife is buried with him. Duncan computerised record indexes, PDFs of Day Saints (Mormons). Although Dennison seems to have come from actual documents and other sources. early birth/baptism records are few, the townland of ‘Cornagrogerny’ The bad news remains that Ireland later civil record indexes provide per 1833 Tithes Applotment Books; has limited earlier records due to the some clues. My findings match the

63 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

name a child after a predeceased one.

(3) Mary Dennison. Once again, there is no birth record but both Barry and I found this daughter born to Duncan Dennison. Mary married John Crawford 14 November 1855 in Drumcliff, Sligo. Her father is listed as Duncan Denison and groom’s father as Patrick Crawford, of Tawnymoyle, Co. Leitrim (near Manorhamilton). (4) Catherine Dennison. Duncan Dennison had another daughter, who married Robert Hunter on 27 The road from Drumcliffe to Kilsellagh. Map data (c) Google 2018 November 1862 in ‘Droim Chliabth’, ones of Barry, although he has added • Catherine (Kate). I could locate Sligo. Father of the bride is listed as more details from a greater variety of no birth record index but aged Duncan Denison. sources. Record commencement dates 30 in 1901 Census; “Girls do Duncan’s wife, Catherine, died 12 for the church at Drumcliff: Births lie!” added Barry. There is a February 1869, according to Barry. 1805, marriages 1845, burials 1805, civil record death index I found He added that her address at time of according to Barry. for a Kate Dennison, who died death was Sracreeghan, Killasnet between July – September 1943 (next to Gortnagrogery) and that she Known Children of Duncan in Sligo, aged 82, which would was a farmer’s widow, aged 70. Dennison have put her birthdate at c. 1861. (1) William Dennison. I did not find a • Dennison, male, born 1 April Later generations birth or marriage record index for this 1865 in Sligo, according to civil Looking to the future, I was curious William, but located several others birth record index. There is also of what became of the grandchildren, with the name within the same area in a civil death record index for a so looked for George as an example, Leitrim, including uncle of Catherine John Duncan Dennison (names born to John and Mary Jane (Kerr) in ‘Gortnagorne’ in Killasnet (Tithes). honour father and grandfather), Dennison c. 1859. According to the Barry located this William Dennison, who died 1865 in Sligo. Many 1901 Census, there was a George baptised in Manorhamilton, Co. Irish children in the 19th century Dennison living at 5 Drum West Leitrim 12 April 1820, who must be perished from illness and (Drumcliff East), Sligo. He was listed this first child of Duncan Dennison. malnutrition, especially during as being a 40-year-old married literate (2) John Denison (1824-1902, dates famine times. Methodist farmer. His wife was Sarah Barry’s finding). John married Mary • Anne Dennison, born in E Dennison, 37 (I could find no Jane KERR 25 February 1858 in 16 October 1865 in Sligo, marriage record index). They had two Drumcliff, Sligo. The civil marriage according to civil birth record. daughters, Hannah W, aged one, and record index that I found states that There is also a civil death record baby Isabella M. John’s father was Duncan Denison. index for an Anne Dennison, The 1911 Census, which contains The bride’s father was Scots- who died in 1865 in Sligo aged extra pertinent information for all Presbyterian George Kerr. two. Often such deaths were households, indicates the family John Dennison and Mary Jane Kerr recorded later, so unsure if this living in 1, Kilsellagh (Drumcliff had the following children, as far as is same child. Since this is only East), with more people, including I could find, and checked against the 6 months after the birth of male servant, Thomas Kennedy, 55, a findings of Barry. baby Dennison, who died, Anne Roman Catholic who could read and • George Dennison (1859-1923). may had been stillborn or died write. I didn’t locate a birth record at birth. First, there is George, 49, a married index listed although a marriage • Annie Denison, born 18 August literate Methodist farmer married for July – September 1898 in Sligo. 1866. This is ten months after 12 years, with six children born and There is a death civil record the birth of the above listed six living (none of their children had index listing his age as 67, and Anne. Annie’s name might be a died; signs of better times). parents as John and Mary Jane modified tribute of baby Anne, His wife, Sarah E, was 47. [George (Kerr) Dennison, which would who apparently died. It was and Sarah E Fraser were married mean he was born c. 1859. common for many parents to 21 July 1898, according to Barry].

64 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

much easier to locate information information, accessibility and editing that may assist in assembling a has made this article possible. I also family tree. Many people around thank Peter Langdon, church warden the world are members of Ancestry. of St Columba’s Drumcliff Church of com but subscriptions are expensive. Ireland for his enthusiastic assistance, A more affordable records source is and also to Chaplain Malcom, tour the Irish Family History Foundation, guide extraordinaire of St. Columba’s. also known as Roots Ireland, which Finally, thanks to Ed Finn of www. has access to millions of records, leitrim-roscommon.com for his (3) Dennison grave, Drumcliff (2) including church parish registrations. townlands information. The organisation also has staffed Children of George and Sarah were: centres in most counties, including in Online references Hannah M (11); ‘Isabela’ M (10); (Accessed in March 2018) Sligo and Leitrim, offering research John F (8); Francis R (6); Joan E Catholic Parish Registers. The National Library of services at reasonable rates. DNA Ireland. www.nli.ie/en/parish-register.aspx and (4); and George S (2). According to testing, in conjunction with regular https://registers.nli.ie/ civil birth records, toddler George’s research, has also become popular. Census 1901 and 1911 and fragments/substitutes. middle name is ‘Sydney’, an unusual National Archives of Ireland. www.census. Companies providing these paid Christian name back then. nationalarchives.ie/ services include FamilyTreeDNA, Church Records. . www. Kate Dennison, 47, is listed as a 23andMe and Ancestry. irishgenealogy.ie/en/irish-records-what-is-available/ single sister living with them, so church-records In summary, although I still can’t she seems to be the aforementioned County Sligo Heritage and Genealogy Centre. http:// conclude that the graves in Drumcliff www.sligoroots.com/ daughter of John Dennison and Mary are officially of Duncan and Catherine FamilySearch. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Jane Kerr, thus brother of George. Day Saints. www.familysearch.org/ Dennison, due to lack of burial Again, there is a civil record death FamilyTreeDNA. https://www.familytreedna.com/ records, I am reasonably sure they are sign-in?ReturnUrl=%2Fmy%2Fdefault.aspx index for a Kate Dennison, who died by studying subsequent information. Genealogy Advisory Service. National Library of 3 August 1943 in Sligo, aged 82. Ireland. www.nli.ie/en/genealogy-advisory-service. Having discovered their religion was aspx To continue searching Methodist, this might also explain Genealogy (including Census and Tithes). The Certainly there are many other why there are no burial records and National Archives of Ireland. www.genealogy. why the headstone is so austere. nationalarchives.ie/ branches of this family tree to explore. Griffith’s Valuation. Ask About Ireland. www. Hopefully the living family members Followers of that faith had no burial askaboutireland.ie/griffith-valuation/ have family ephemera in hand ground of their own in those days Kilsellagh Civil Parish and Townlands. https://www. because they were regarded as part of townlands.ie/leitrim/killasnet/ such as family bibles, certificates, Kilsellagh, in relation to Drumcliff and Glencar. photographs, and also passed-down a society, rather than a church. Google Maps view. www.googlemaps.ie stories. Oral histories and folklore So, in the case of these mysterious Map for Civil Parish of Killasnet in neighbours of Yeats, I am happy to Showing Townland Locations. By Ed Finn. stories are treasures and should be http://www.leitrim-roscommon.com/MAPS/ recorded and transcribed to document report that after just a modest search, killasnet.html everyone’s unique heritage. my curiosity about the Drumcliff Methodist Historical Society of Ireland. http:// At any rate in this Dennison ‘case Dennison graves has been satisfied. methodisthistoryireland.org/ And lo and behold, due to my Online Parish Records. Anglican Church Records. study’, it is important to note that my www.ireland.anglican.org/about/rcb-library/online- preliminary results cannot be proven DNA test findings and his thorough parish-records without actual church and civil research, Barry has determined that Roots Ireland (Irish Family History Foundation). my own family were ‘Dennistons’ of www.rootsireland.ie records interpreted and verified by a Sligo County Libraries. http://www.sligolibrary.ie/ professional researcher / genealogist. Co Donegal going back to the 1600s, OurBranches/SligoCentralLibrary/ Questions are often left unanswered and directly, if distantly related, to St. Columba’s Church of Ireland, Drumcliffe. the Dennisons in Leitrim, including Historic Graves. http://historicgraves.com/ if no proof can be located. I’ve been graveyard/st-columba-s-church-ireland-drumcliffe/ fortunate to have the reports and Duncan’s family. Now when I visit sl-dcci input of researcher Barry to check these graves in Drumcliff, I’ll be “The Dennisons of Glencar, Co. Leitrim and against and add to my work, so feel paying tribute to a cousin. The Drumcliffe Co. Sligo”. PDF report by Barry wonders of genealogy! Bradfield, Dennison Family Researcher. quite confident about our combined The Surname of Dennison and the Dennison DNA findings. Project. John Barrett Robb. http://www.johnbrobb. As stated earlier, the main reason Acknowledgements com/JBR-DEN-sur.htm; also accessed through Many thanks to Barry Bradfield, FamilyTreeDNA Projects: www.familytreedna.com/ for this article is to jump-start a search public/Dennison/default.aspx and encourage families to document Dennison descendant and family Tithe Applotment Books 1823-1837. The National their own stories and heritage. Due researcher, who has contributed a Archives of Ireland. http://titheapplotmentbooks. nationalarchives.ie/search/tab/home.jsp to modern genealogy methods, free plethora of reported research for the online sites and other sources, it’s Dennison DNA project. His wealth of 65 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 The many places of Saint Féichín By Micheál Murphy

In common with many of the have been founded by him. The parish Nearer home there are a number of early Irish saints, little can be said church in Ballinrobe has a stained lesser known places and holy wells definitively about the life of Saint glass window, depicting St Féichín dedicated to him. The national school Féichín. , where and St Fursey, by Harry Clarke. in the parish of , Co Mayo he is best known under the title of He is also strongly linked to is called after St Féichín, and there ‘Féichín of Fore’, claims him as a Island and High Island, Árd Oileán, are two holy wells in that area, one descendent of a local tribe, the Clann off the Connemara coast, as well as in Mullahowney, Attymass, and the Cholmáin. He has given his name Inis Meáin in the Aran Islands. In other in Rathredane in Bonniconlon to the parish of St Feighin’s in Fore. Connemara, Féichín’s name is often parish, each believed to have curative Elsewhere it is thought that he came anglicised to Festy. He is said to have powers. One intriguing site associated from Fochart in Co Louth, a place completed his education under St with St Féichín is in the townland of also associated with St Brigid. He Ciarán at Clonmacnoise. Legend has Glanduff, nestled picturesquely in the has given his name to the village of it that he travelled to Scotland where foothills of the western edge of the Termonfeckin, Tearmonn Fhéichín, or he is known as St Vigeans, giving his Ox mountains, and a stone’s throw Féichín’s sanctuary, also in Co Louth. name to the village of St Vigeans near from the border with Co Sligo and (Padraig Ó Riain, Dictionary of Irish Arbroath in Angus. parish. Glanduff is now Saints, 2011, Four Courts Press) in the parish of but was until In Co Sligo, it is believed that Féichín relatively recent times in Attymass was born at Billa near parish. The official name for the towards the end of the 6th century and townland is Glandaduff, thought to that he received his education from derive from Gleann dá ghuth, the glen Saint Nathy of Achonry. He died of of two voices, i.e. glen of the echo. plague in the year 665 or 668 AD and is said to be buried in Kells, Co Meath. According to tradition, his mother was Saint Lassara and throughout the diocese of Achonry there are many sites and churches associated with the two saints. (St Lassara is not to be confused with St Lasair, daughter of St Rónán of near Boyle, who has given her name to Killasser parish.) The Catholic church in St Martin’s cemetery or Cillín Ballinacarrow is dedicated to Ss Glanduff Féichín and Lassara, and the church of the Assumption in Collooney has Cillín Glanduff, in the heart of the images of the two saints in panels townland, bears a plaque which reads: in the sanctuary window. Notably St ‘St. Martin’s Cemetery, dated cir. 5th Féichín is considered to be the founder or 6th century. French Order of Monks of the abbey in Ballysadare, which founded the monastery.’ This indicates later became a seat of the Augustinian that the cillín is approximately of the canons. In St Patrick’s church in same era as St Patrick. Whether a Bushfield, in Charlestown parish, French order of monks could have there is another stained-glass window reached Glanduff at that time is open dedicated to him and the graveyard to question, but it is recognised that beside it is called St Féichín’s. there were many hermitages and Window depicting St Lassara Further afield, there are many other and St Féichín in the sanctuary of anchorite communities founded in places associated with St Féichín. the church of the Assumption in secluded places in those years. Young Cong Abbey in Co Mayo, which also Collooney. All images in this article men, infused with zeal for an ascetic became an Augustinian seat, is said to are courtesy of the author. way of life, often found remote spaces

66 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 where they lived a frugal life in the has been able to trace links between the service of God. In the 5th/6th century, Coptic Church and early monasticism a place like Glanduff was probably as in Ireland. isolated as Glendalough or Gougane The Faddan More Psalter (c. 800AD) Barra, where St Kevin and St which was discovered in a bog in north Finbarr respectively established their Tipperary in 2006 was shown to have communities about the same time. papyrus from Egypt in its cover. In the At the roadside near the entrance Book of (12th century) there to Glanduff cemetery is a holy well is a prayer which reads, ‘through the named after St Féichín. The plaque prayers of the seven Egyptian monks claims the water holds a cure for who preached to us in Jesus Christ, cowpox. O Lord grant us forgiveness for our

Tau cross in Cillín Glanduff. The letters ‘HIS’ are crudely incised on the east face November (Martinmas). (In Ireland there was a tradition of killing a goose St Féichín’s holy well beside Cillín Glanduff for Martinmas, a kind of ‘atonement Féichín is said to have practised sins’. On the north side of the base to St Martin’ for the geese which the austere way of life of St Anthony of the High Cross in Dysert O’Dea, by their cackling betrayed Martin’s of Egypt (251- 356AD). (Ó Riain, p Co Clare, there is a carved effigy whereabouts when he was trying 310). Anthony was one of the Desert of a bishop carrying a Tau cross. to avoid being ordained a bishop!) Fathers who lived much of his life in Another high cross in Kilfenora, Co Martin was born in what is now total solitude, battling the temptations Clare, known as the Doorty Cross, part of Hungary but spent much of and attacks of the devil. He was has two carvings in relief, tentatively his missionary life in France. He is followed into the desert by other men identified by the expert Dr Peter venerated in the Catholic tradition as who adhered to his extreme rule, and Harbison as St Anthony holding a well as in the Coptic faith. because of that he is regarded as the Tau cross. It is thought that as early It is unlikely if we will ever find founder of Christian monasticism. The as the second century Egyptian sailors out for sure who the monks were who symbol associated with St Anthony is came to Ireland, trading spices for founded this little cell in Glanduff, or the T-shaped cross, known as the Tau tin, copper and gold. At that time what the links were with St Féichín. cross, which he used as a crutch. This Egypt had already been converted Did he bless the well as he passed on has become the cross of the Christian to Christianity by St Mark and these his way to Attymass from Leyney or or Coptic church in Egypt. traders would have brought their faith did he spend time here as a hermit Interestingly there is a Tau cross with them. We know that there were or in the company of French monks carved in stone in Cillín Glanduff. Christians in Ireland before St Patrick or Coptic Christians? In my own Such crosses are rare in Ireland but because in 431AD Palladius was sent research I have been unable to find any there are two well known examples. by the Pope ‘to minister to the Irish written account of the origin of Cillín One is on Tory Island and the other who believe in Christ’. Glanduff. It is clear that it dates from at Kilnaboy, Co Clare. Is it possible The fact that Cillín Glanduff is the very early years of Christianity in that the Coptic Christians from north dedicated to St Martin may also Ireland and that it is held as a place Africa found their way to Glanduff? indicate a Coptic connection. St very sacred to the people of the Alf Monaghan, who addressed the Martin of Tours was a 4th century locality, who keep the cemetery and Ballymote Heritage Group in 2017, saint whose feast day occurs 11 its surrounds in exemplary order.

67 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 The Irish in the American Revolutionary War

By Paul Burns

Much has been written about the Loyalist militia. A lengthy siege was Irish Brigade in America’s Civil War, ruled out because D’Estaing, fearful the idea for a ‘foreign legion’ unit of hurricanes, would not commit having come from the Wild Geese, to more than two weeks. Lincoln as the Irish who fought in the various reluctantly agreed to a frontal assault. European wars were called. All-Irish Dillon was second in command of the units were formed in many countries – French and led one of the attacking including France, Spain, and Austria – columns, spearheaded by his Irish as the Europeans came to realise that detachment. The combined French- the Irish made excellent soldiers when American force was beaten back by properly trained. grapeshot with some of the heaviest At the time of the American casualties of the war—637 French and Revolution, the French Army 457 Americans killed or wounded, contained three Irish regiments, including 63 of Dillon’s regiment. named after their organisers as the Within days, D’Estaing had collected Regiments of Dillon, Berwick, and the survivors, loaded the ships, and Walsh. The Regiment of Dillon saw sailed away. the most service on the American The presence of Dillon’s regiment at side of the Atlantic, though elements Savannah, augmented by a portion of of Walsh’s regiment were the first to Count d’Estaing in 1769 Walsh’s, is certain. Berwick’s regiment aid the American cause when some did not arrive in the Caribbean until were assigned as marines to John Paul expedition to the Caribbean, and its 1782, and it missed both Savannah Jones’s Bonhomme Richard. 1,400 Irish took part in the conquest (1779) and Yorktown (1781). While In 1779, British troops and of Grenada. About 500 of them some historians placed the Dillon and American Loyalist (‘loyal’ to the eagerly volunteered to accompany Walsh regiments at Yorktown there is king) militia dominated the southern D’Estaing north to fight more British. no firm evidence of this. There were colonies. Savannah, Georgia, was Various Dillons had been in command several Dillons at Yorktown, but they the key port of the area, and General of the regiment of that name since were officers in Lauzun’s Legion Benjamin Lincoln, commander of the it was formed in 1698. In 1779, the and probably from a different Dillon American colonies’ Continental Army commander was Dublin-born Count family. in the south, was determined to take it. Arthur Dillon, who later lost his head to There were no all-Irish units in A French fleet was attacking British- the Guillotine. At least part of Walsh’s the Continental Army, though there controlled colonies in the Caribbean, regiment also was with D’Estaing in were Irish aplenty. Twenty percent and Lincoln asked its commander the Caribbean, and a company of it of Washington’s troops were Ireland- to help. Admiral D’Estaing sailed is believed to have been present at born. Half of these had been shipped north to Savannah with part of his Savannah because officers known to to America as convicts/indentured fleet, leaving the rest to guard newly- be in that regiment were commended servants, and presumably had no love conquered Grenada and Guadalupe. in a surviving French dispatch. The for the English. Nine of Washington’s Most French military documents of Dillon contingent probably was one generals were born in Ireland – two the time were later destroyed in the of the regiment’s two battalions. major generals and seven brigadier French Revolution, and American The siege of Savannah was a disaster generals. Of these, only Brigadier records did not dwell on the extent of for the attacking force. About 4,500 General Edward Hand from County French help rendered. But surviving French (including Dillon’s 500) and Offaly was at Yorktown. There was documents show that Dillon’s 2,200 of General Lincoln’s Americans another Irish general at Yorktown regiment was part of the French surrounded Savannah fortifications but, ironically, he was serving with defended by 2,500 English troops and

68 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 the British forces. General Charles third English, one-third Scottish, and Mention should be made of yet O’Hara, the illegitimate son of British one-third Irish. During the 1780s, another group of Irish who were General James O’Hara, second baron the Dublin government was funding peripherally involved in the American of Tyrawley, was born in Lisbon. He a British military reserve of 12,000 Revolution in a manner that had an was the third general in his family, his soldiers, and Cork was the primary influence on the battle of Yorktown. grandfather having been Sir Charles logistical base for the British forces Spain had an Irish brigade consisting O’Hara, first baron of Tyrawley, in North America. The city of Cork of three regiments – the Ultonia who – although born in Co Mayo – exhibited its loyalty to the king by (Ulster), the Irlanda, and the Hibernia. was said to have been of the Sligo offering an enlistment bonus. The The Hibernia was in Cuba at the time O’Hara family. Charles, the grandson, Roman Catholic citizens of Limerick of the American Revolution and, in was second-in-command to British also did, offering one guinea to the May 1781, 22 officers and 588 men commander Lord Cornwallis. O’Hara first 500 to enlist there. There was from it participated in the Spanish had the dubious honor of representing an all-Irish regiment serving in the conquest of Pensacola, Florida. After Cornwallis at the surrender ceremony. British army in America, the 105th the British surrendered, they were There were no all-Irish regiments in Foot – also called ‘The Volunteers of allowed to sail to New York. This the British order of battle at Yorktown, Ireland.’ It was raised in the American reinforcement of the British garrison though there were Irish among the city of Philadelphia by an Irish officer in New York influenced the American rank-and-file. For example, the roster in the British army (Lord Rawdon- and French decision to march against of the 76th Foot, a Scottish regiment Hastings) and took part in the 1779 Cornwallis at Yorktown, rather than that was at Yorktown, listed 114 battle for Charleston, but it was not at lay siege to New York. Irish among its soldiers. The British either Savannah or Yorktown. army at the time was roughly one-

The death of a brilliant young doctor Article from the Sligo Champion in the 1930s

Submitted by Padraig McDermott

If the history of South Sligo were ever of Ballymote life for a quarter of a rich and poor alike. We regard his to be written, the story of the Gilmartin century. His mother, Mrs. Gilmartin, passing as a great personal sorrow and family of Rinbane, Mullinabreena, Zion Road, Rathgar, came of a very we tender, through this medium, our would occupy a distinguished place. It distinguished family. His uncle was sincere condolence to his family. We produced doctors and priests of high the late Dr. Jack Gilmartin, Ballymote shall miss Dr. Jack, as we missed his renown at home and abroad; it gave and his brother Dr. Tom Gilmartin uncle, and his like will be hard to find. a notable businessman to Ballymote, of Mercer’s Hospital, Dublin. The As the remains passed through and at home in the homestead a farmer late doctor had just received an Dublin to Ballymote a very large of the highest character and standing in appointment to the hospital where concourse was present at the North the person of Mr. Dominick Gilmartin. he died and he gave every promise Wall. They were representative of It is all the more regrettable, therefore, of a brilliant future. He was a great the social, sporting, professional and that we have to record the tragically athlete, and a great friend, with a commercial life of the city where he unexpected demise at the age of 25 personality that radiated from every had spent his student days, loved by years of Dr. John P. Gilmartin, after pore a buoyancy of spirit that made all; a credit to his family and to his a short illness at the Victoria Central him an ideal companion and a most county. Hospital, Wallasey, Cheshire. consoling medical attendant, who After High Mass at Ballymote, the His father was the late Mr. James brought the sunshine of joy to every remains were interred at St. Columba’s Gilmartin, who helped in the building patient he attended. He was loved Cemetery, Carrownanty. No funeral up of the firm of Duff’s Ballaghdereen from a child in his native Ballymote, ever testified more to the esteem in and whose courage, philanthropy and where the news of his death came as which he and his family were held. ability were the outstanding features a tremendous shock to everybody,

69 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Deechomede’s Unknown Volunteer

By John McDonagh

We can only assume that John Cawley, the older son living at home at that time, was employed in either Bunninadden or Ballymote creamery, as both were within walking distance of his home. It is the said John who later managed Granard creamery and played a major role in the struggle for nationhood in the midlands region. John Cawley was born on 3 May 1880 to Thomas Cawley and his wife Beesey (ne Connell), and his birth was registered in Tubbercurry on the following day. He would almost certainly have attended the old school in Carrowreagh, but where he went after that is untraceable. Professor Marie Coleman in her book, Longford and the Irish Revolution writes that he studied veterinary medicine in Dublin. Possible, but unlikely given that third-level education at that time was A letter confirming John’s involvement in the IRB the prerogative of the wealthy, and The townland of Deechomede is Two hundred and sixty years later, furthermore the faculty of veterinary situated in south western Sligo in by the time of the 1901 census, medicine was only established at the parish of Bunninadden, electoral Deechomede had 15 occupied Trinity in 1894. division of Cloonoghal. It is bordered dwellings, all but one with thatched A much more likely scenario is by the townlands of Spurtown, roofs. One of these holdings, 11 that on leaving Carrowreagh he Aughris, Ballinaglough, Oldrock, acres on the western side of the hill obtained work or an apprenticeship in Woodhill and Carrowloughlin. and accessible only by a right-of-way Ballymote creamery, which was then The most impressive feature of through the fields of a neighbouring rated as one of the leading creameries Deechomede is a remarkably high, farm, relates to the subject of this in the country. This of course is purely steep hill, topped by an Iron Age article. This was the Cawley home, conjecture. burial mound, locally known as and according to the census it had four However he did quite well for Caran, which is visible from much of occupants: himself because in 1904, three years the surrounding countryside. • Thomas Cawley, 50 Farmer, after the 1901 census, and aged just According to the 1641 Down Head of household, could read 24, he was appointed manager of Survey, Deechomede was owned by and write the newly-formed Granard Co-op one Henry Dowdall, a Catholic, who • Bridget Cawley (nee Connell), creamery. It is logical to assume that was subsequently dispossessed after 54, Wife, Housekeeper, cannot the management committee of a new the 1641 rebellion. His land, like read co-op would be delighted to recruit most of the land in the general area, • Thomas Cawley, 17, Son, could somebody from a dairy processer with was given to Theobald Taaffe, Earl read and write, not married the reputation and expertise ascribed of Carlingford, also Catholic. The • John Cawley, 21, Son, to Ballymote creamery at that time. number of forfeited plantation acres is creamery assistant, could read The fledgling Granard co-op in recorded as 138. and write, not married 1904 had 103 suppliers. One year 70 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 later their milk supply had doubled to of ministerial portfolios including of Kitty Kiernan, later to become a peak supply of 500 gallons per day, Health and Defence in various Fine Mick Collin’s fiancé). However, they and it increased substantially in the Gael governments, and he also ran for were turned back at Lucan and they following years. However its manager the presidency. then resorted to cutting the telephone John Cawley, imbued with the spirit Both Sean Mac Eoin and Michael wires in the area. On 16 May Granard of nationalism, had other interests as Collins credited Cawley for ‘the creamery was raided by a company well. rise of the Separatist movement in of the Sherwood Foresters. Cawley In 1906 he applied for permission north .’ An excerpt and Paul Cusack were arrested and to use the town hall on behalf of the from Sean Mac Eoin’s statement taken to Richmond Barracks, Dublin, Gaelic League. Showing a vigorous to The Bureau of Military History from where they were marched to the tendency to organize nationalistic (DOCUMENT NO. WS 716) reads as docks and put aboard a cattle boat The enterprise at that early stage, he was follows: Slieve Bloom. They were brought to also involved with the GAA and the ‘From early 1907 the Gaelic League Wandsworth Prison and incarcerated Granard Brass and Reed Band. and Gaelic Athletic Association there until they were transferred to These movements did not go flourished in the county, interspersed Frongoch on 16 June where they were unnoticed by the Redmonite faction, with The Ancient Order of Hibernians both charged with ‘being of hostile and in October 1907 a scathing letter and The United Irish League. The association and having favoured, appeared in the independent separatist’s movement promoted or assisted an armed which was owned by JP Farrell, Irish was a tiny plant and found it difficult insurrection against his Majesty.’ party MP for Longford. The letter to succeed in these years … Representations on their behalf were remarked on the fact ‘that all the ‘The Separatist movement in made in the House of Commons by Granard Sinn Feiners were Blow Ins, Longford was initiated from a Mr JP Farrell MP for north Longford, and not from the Longford area’ and development by Granard and Longford and the men were finally released in urging Cawley ‘to pay more attention towns. To John Cawley of Granard, late December, returning to Longford to hygiene and cleanliness in the Frank McGuinness, Longford, and to a rapturous welcome of bands creamery.’ William Ganly of Granard, much and bonfires. Cawley reported that On 11 Feb 1907, John Cawley is credit must be given for the growth the Welsh people ‘were generally recorded as one of the witnesses at and development of the Separatist sympathetic to the Irish bid for his brother’s marriage to Mary Hunt movement in County Longford.’ freedom.’ in the Catholic Church, Carrowcastle, On the formation of the Longford On 12 January 1917, Cawley was Co Mayo. Brigade of the IRA, John Cawley appointed general secretary of Sinn In 1909, Sinn Fein and in particular was appointed Commanding officer Fein North Longford Comhairle Cawley are again under attack from a to the 2nd Granard Battalion and his Centaur, and a few months later on correspondent to The Longford Leader volunteers began drilling and training 11 April, Michael Collins declared who wanted Cawley to apologise for in January 1914. ‘Longford is in a good place now remarks that he made at a Sinn Fein Following the arrest of Roger largely due to the work of John meeting in Finea, and suggesting that Casement on 16 April 1916, Alec Cawley.’ the co-op shareholders should now McCabe (Kesh) and another couple On 17 May 1918 Cawley once again take action. of Sligo activists took the train to found himself behind bars, this time The 1911 census records JC as one Dublin on Holy Saturday, to meet in connection with ‘the German Plot’. of the six boarders residing in the up with the 1916 leaders. They told This was a spurious attempt by the house of Kathleen Hayden, 6, Main him the rising was going ahead, even British to denigrate the Republican Street, Granard though the chances of success were movement, now sweeping like wildfire With the advent of the First World limited. Having seen Mac Neill’s through the whole country. There was War in August 1914, IRB membership countermanding orders on the Sunday fierce and impassioned opposition and activities increased dramatically. papers, McCabe returned to Mullingar to the proposed conscription of Irish That same year John Cawley swore on the advice of Mc Dermott and then men by the British, to replace the in a number of volunteers who would journeyed on to Granard to meet huge manpower losses suffered by the later play a significant role in the up with Cawley and try to make British army now fighting in the Great fight for independence, including some provisions in case the Dublin War for its fourth and final bloody Sean Connelly, William Ganly, insurrection went badly and the rebels year. James P Flood, Frank McGuinness had to retreat to the country. (brother of Joe McGuinness, who On the Easter Monday night of They (the British) tried to fabricate was later elected to the first Dail ) and the Rising, John Cawley and Paul evidence that German agents were Sean Mac Eoin (The blacksmith of Cusack started out for Dublin in a fomenting agitation and using Sinn Ballinalee). The latter held a number car driven by Larry Kiernan (brother Fein to start a rebellion in Ireland in

71 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 order to divert British regiments from Because of this incident, the Crown in 1934, John Cawley France and Belgium. Countrywide, 73 Forces in Longford were issued with was appointed its branch manager in Sinn Fein activists, including Cawley, instructions to ‘shoot Cawley on Waterford, but apart from a conviction were arrested and incarcerated for a sight’ and Cawley was forced to go on for a minor driving offence in 1936, number of weeks. the run, living in a succession of safe I can find nothing about his life On 21 Jan 1919 the ‘real shooting houses and constantly on the move thereafter. war’ began when a company of RIC until the truce in July 1921 A trawl through the records of the was ambushed and killed while From then onwards, John Cawley’s military pensions and medals archives they were escorting a delivery of life becomes somewhat obscure. In reveals that he was awarded a medal gelignite to Soloheadbeg quarry in Co an application made to the pensions and special allowance on 31 July Tipperary. After that the war spiralled section of An Roinn Cosanta in 1954, 1951, and that the balance of the said downwards rapidly, with almost daily he states that he applied to join the allowance was paid to his widow ambushes, shootings, burnings and Free State army in 1922 but was Florence Cawley (nee Turner) after his reprisals. rejected because he was considered death on 10 July 1957. He is buried in The next incident pertaining too old at 42, but that he was offered Glasnevin. Sadly there is no headstone to Cawley is a report from The the job of Garda superintendent. He over his grave and his passing appears Connaught Tribune, Nov 6 1920, said that he declined this offer because to have been overlooked by the state reporting on the fatal shooting of ‘he didn’t like the duties.’ that he worked so hard to create. District inspector Howlett Kelleher With all the harassment and arrests -- who was killed while drinking at the of its staff, it is unsurprising that the co- Author’s note: This is the story of John bar in Kiernan’s hotel. op went belly-up. Granard Creamery Cawley and his valiant and unstinting According to the report, the was placed in receivership in 1923 efforts in the cause of Irish nationhood, inspector, who was only 23 years old, and the buildings and equipment were a story that has been unheard and totally in plain clothes and unarmed, was sold. unknown in the area where he was born drinking at the bar in the company John Cawley married Florence and reared. I feel privileged to bring the tale of his efforts and exploits in the of Larry Kiernan, Paul Cusack, B Beatrice Maud Turner from 6 national cause, back home to be recorded Macken and John Cawley, when two Sallymount Avenue Dublin, in the in his native locality. masked men entered the hotel and church of Our Immaculate Lady I wish to thank Theresa Finnegan of the shot him four times. of Refuge in Rathmines, on 19 Jan Sligo heritage and genealogy centre also The report continues: ‘A military 1926. The marriage registration lists Fr. Tom Murray of the Longford historical society for their invaluable assistance in inquiry into the shooting of Mr her father’s occupation as ‘Druggist.’ researching this article. Also ‘Hugh’ from Kelleher was held in the barracks Cawley is described as ‘Commercial the Military Archive – John McDonagh today. At the conclusion of the inquiry Traveller’ with his place of residence Mr Paul Cusack was taken into given as ‘The Midlands Railway custody and removed by the military Hotel’. to Longford.’ At some stage after the foundation of The Cock Tavern Kilburn Deceit in a crowd By John Hannon By Kathleen Quinn Join us at the Cock Tavern the notice proclaimed a Hush Hush now children, fund of friendly atmosphere and real value No speaking out loud One entered an Aladdin’s Cave of broken dreams Whispers deceit in a crowd And the lost legion of Irish navvies busily drinking themselves into a Friendly oblivion of darkened Fingers on lips might be the perfect picture, Guinness. In a smoked filled Irish themed tavern. Don’t be upset came out the whisper, For it’s a child’s rightful place, The Irish Whiskey Company Belfast Ireland Cause no confusion nor disgrace. Roscrea 24 Nenagh 42 and Ballyduff 16 Acclaimed the bygone days of a misty homeland Watch all the action here Big screen sports seductively beckoned The Sunday afternoon drinkers And the live GAA games Lulled and massaged the heartaches of spousal separation. 72 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Brother Francis McGovern – An outstanding Sligo footballer and much more

By Tommy Kilcoyne

In the first half of the 1950s Paddy League qualifying for the quarter final there was more than a doubt about McGovern from Gurteen was a which they lost to Donegal by one the ball having crossed the line for prominent member of Sligo senior point in Glenties. In that campaign an equaliser.’ The Sligo team which football teams. Away from the football Sligo did record a memorable win over included many of the county’s all time fields Paddy lived a remarkable life a strong Offaly team in O’Connor’s great footballers was: TJ Murphy, Ted which is outlined in a recent book Field, Tubbercurry, by 2-5 to 1-5. Nealon, Frank White, Paddy Christie, by Jim Malia entitled A Remarkable In the 1952 Connacht Championship Ray Tully, Nace O’Dowd, Padraic Irishman: The Frank McGovern Story. Sligo again faced the All-Ireland Dockry, Frank Gaffney, Ned Durkin, Paddy McGovern was born in Mount champions Mayo, this time in Paddy McGovern, Johnny Cogan, Irwin, Gurteen, Co Sligo, in 1925, the Charlestown, and went down narrowly Mick Christie, Paddy Mullen, Mick son of Lena and Patrick McGovern. 0-9 to 0-6 after a titanic battle. Paddy Gaffney, Joe Masterson. He attended Killavil National School. McGovern played at right half forward Brother Francis again played for As a young man he joined the Marist for Sligo that day. Sligo in 1955 when they lost out Brothers, taking the name Brother In 1952 Craobh Rua won the County to Roscommon by 1-8 to 0-4 in the Francis. He then spent about half a Senior Football Championship title Connacht Championship semi-final dozen happy and successful years defeating the holders Tubbercurry in in Castlebar. Luck was not with Sligo teaching in St John’s NS, Sligo. He an exciting final. Paddy McGovern that day when two goal attempts, was a first-class coach and during that played at right half forward on the one by Brother Francis, struck the time he coached the school team to team and in the same position the woodwork instead of the back of the win the 1951 Sligo Primary Schools’ following year when Craobh Rua net. county title, a team which included retained the championship beating In 1958 the Marist Order gave Ray MacSharry, future Tánaiste, Keash in the final, thus becoming the Brother Francis an appointment Minister for Finance and European first holders of the newly presented to Nigeria, a vibrant and dynamic Commissioner. He also coached the Owen B Hunt Perpetual Challenge country on the brink of independence. successful Summerhill College teams Cup. He excelled as a teacher there and which won the Connacht Colleges In 1953 Mayo again came to Corran took well to life in the tropics, very senior football titles in 1954 and Park, Ballymote, to play Sligo in different though it was to rural Ireland. 1955. Those teams included the great the Connacht Championship. The His skills were recognised and he Mattie McDonagh from Ballygar who powerful Mayo team which included was appointed as novice master for went on to win four All-Ireland senior such greats as Padraic Carney, Paddy Nigerian Marist Brothers in training. football medals with Galway in 1956, Pendergast, Sean Flanagan, Joe Independence came and all seemed ’64, ’65 and ’66. Paddy McGovern Gilvarry and Henry Dixon prevailed well. Then in 1968 the war started, the was an outstanding footballer, fast, narrowly by 2-6 to 1-6. Paddy Nigerian civil war, the Biafran war. athletic and skilful and he played for McGovern came on as a substitute for Jim Malia was himself in Nigeria in the successful Craobh Rua club in Sligo that day. those years, often working alongside Sligo town and for the Sligo county Sligo qualified for the Connacht Brother Francis, and in his book the team during the early and mid-1950s. Final against Galway in 1954. It was reality and brutality of war are not Those were the years when Mayo played at Tuam Stadium and what a glossed over. were the dominant force in Gaelic contest it turned out to be. In a frantic As it turns out, the story of Brother Football winning the All-Ireland finish, Sligo were controversially Francis in Nigeria and Biafra, and title in both 1950 and ’51. In the denied an equalising goal. Galway his work with refugees and later with 1951 Connacht Championship Mayo won by three points 2-10 to 3-4. those who suffered loss of limbs during defeated Sligo by 3-7 to 1-5 at Corran Sligo’s frustrations were summed up the war, was only the beginning. He Park in Ballymote. Paddy McGovern by journalist Joe Jennings who wrote returned to Ireland to take up retreat played at left half forward on that in his Sligo Champion report: ‘I could work with young people and was again team. Later in the year he featured on have cried in Tuam on Sunday when very successful. He completed his the Sligo team which had a relatively I saw referee T. Reilly (Cavan) place teaching career in . He moved successful campaign in the National the ball for a free out to Galway after into working with alcoholics there. 73 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

The project went from strength to arrival of the first Marists there. He Sources strength. A new complex was built and returned to Athlone to continue with Sligo GAA 125 History 1884-2009 President Mary Robinson performed his work, retired and died there in his Africa, St. Patrick’s Missionary Society, Kiltegan, Co. Wicklow magazine. March the official opening. Brother Francis 84th year in January, 2008. 2018. was awarded the Irish Life Pensioner Jim Malia’s description of Brother A Remarkable Irishman: The Frank of the Year Award. In 1999 he was Francis as a remarkable Irishman is McGovern Story, Jim Malia. New invited and travelled to Nigeria to very appropriate. Ar dheis Dé go raibh Millennium Publishing Ltd., 34, South celebrate the 50th anniversary of the a anam dílis. Molton St. London, W1K 5RG.

74 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 Special places in Paris for the Irish College Submitted by Neal Farry

In his short history of the Irish Our order broken, they who were our Offering Mass within some clod-built College in Paris titled Soldiers, brood chapel, Scholars, Priests: A Brief Overview Knew not themselves the heirs of And to the dying the last sacrament of the History of the Irish College in noted masters, Conveying, no more we strove to do -- Paris, Fr Swords has provided us with Of Columbanus and Erigena; We, all bare exiles, a number of contemporary drawings We strove towards no high reach of Soldats, erudits, pretres. of buildings with which the noted speculation, Ballymote catechist and linguist, Rev Towards no delivery of gestated Permission to use the extracts from Dr Andrew Donlevy (1680 - 1746) dogma, the late Fr Swords’ work was granted was associated. No resolution of age-long dispute. by his sister, Brenda Coyne, for which In his booklet Fr. Swords has quoted Only to have a priest beside the we are most grateful. The booklet was a poem by Padraic Colum, The Old hedges, submitted to the Corran Herald by College of the Irish, Paris: Baptizing, marrying, Oliver Farry.

The courtyard of the Sorbonne. Dr Dunlevy was a Professor of Catechetics in the Sorbonne when he compiled his catechism ‘An Teagasg Criosduidhe de reir Ceasda agus Freagartha’

75 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

In June 1722 Rev Dr Andrew Dunlevy was appointed founding Prefect of the Community of Clerics and Scholars in College des Lombardes on Rue des Carmes by the incumbent Archbishop of Paris, Louis de Noailles

The Abbey of St Genevieve, whose abbot was a director of the Irish College during the time of Rev Andrew Dunlevy

St Etienne du Mont, the Parish Church of the Irish Community during the life of Rev Andrew Dunlevy.

76 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

The present Irish Cultural Centre in Rue des Irlandais. In 1775, after the death of Dr Dunlevy, the Irish students were transferred from the Lombard College to a new college in Rue de Cheval Vert. The Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte renamed this street Rue des Irlandais in 1807. The Irish College became the Irish Cultural Centre in the 20th century.

The Bastille fortress. No doubt the Irish students were careful to avoid incarceration in this prison.

77 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 28th Ballymote Heritage Weekend 2017

Ballymote Heritage Group, Committee Members left to right: Neal Farry, Ursula Gilhawley, Anne Henry, Pam Benson, Annette Caffrey, Carmel Rogers, Eileen Tighe, Michael Tarmey and Derek Davey

Left to right: Neal Farry, Ursula Gilhawley, Eileen Tighe and Dr Patrick Wallace, former director of the National Museum of Ireland

Left to right: Speaker Alf Monaghan and Neil Henry

Left to right: John Coleman and Carmel Rogers

78 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019 First Communion and Confirmation 2018

Knockminna First Holy Communion 2018 Front Row: Cliona Golden, Vicky Quinn, Amy Mc Donald, Aoife Scanlon, Gracie Mc Donagh, Kayla Beirne. Middle row: Ryan Faughnan, Christy Muldoon, Gary Mc Donagh, Niall Mc Garry, Darragh Lyons, Eoin Henry Back row: Louise King (Principal); Fr James Mc Donagh PP, Aoife Mc Donagh (class teacher) Altar servers: Tom Cassidy, Michael Kerins

Knockminna Confirmation 2018 Celebrant: Fr James McDonagh Front row: Kayleigh Scanlon, Ted Mc Garry, Darragh Mc Donald, Fiachra Duignan, James Mullen, Shane Drury, Keilan Hannon, Tiarnan O’Connor, Jamie Quinn, Michael Kerins Centre: Sinead Nally, Tara Scanlon, Amy Brehony, Louise King (Principal), Tom Cassidy, Tomas Faughnan, Daniel King, Joseph Curran, Adam Ferguson Back row: Nicole Wynne, Cora Mc Morrow, Cassandra Quigley, Dalton Taylor, Adam Scanlon 79 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2018/2019

Ballymote Heritage Group Patrons Mattie Casey Judge Keenan Johnson Officers President Eileen Tighe

Chairperson & PRO Neal Farry

Vice-Chairperson Tom Lavin

Secretary Annette Caffrey

Joint Treasurers Pam Benson and MichaelTarmey

Editor of The Corran Herald Stephen Flanagan Members Desmond Black, Mary Black, Olive Byrne, David Casey, Gerry Cassidy, John Coleman, Paddy Conboy, Derek Davey, Fiona Doherty, Owen Duffy, Anne Flanagan, Brenda Friel, Noreen Friel, Ursula Gilhawley, Anne Henry, Neil Henry, Mary Martin, Carmel McGettrick, Eddie O’Gorman, Mary O’Gorman, John Perry, Marie Perry, Nuala Rogers, Carmel Rogers, Michael Rogers. Sponsors of Ballymote Heritage Weekend

Principal Sponsor Casey’s Pharmacy

Sponsors John Cawley Steve Lemken Michael & Carmel Rogers Tente Ltd.

80 Compiled and Published by Ballymote Heritage Group

ISSUE No. 51 2018/2019 PRICE €8.00